Good question(s). We must repurpose most of our tools. But a company called NOE recognized the value of what we do. Primer reloaders need round resized cups as well as a "de-dimpled" cup bottoms. Here's a page from Aardvark aardvarkreloading.com/primers.html Scroll down until you find the de-dimple methods (and the NOE tool) The cups must be re-flattened. A gap between the nose of the anvil and the bottom of the cup must exist (i call it the pinch gap). The powder is compressed and the ingredients rub against each other. Its explained here. rumble.com/vtj5g9-homemade-primers-how-primers-work.html We think that gap must be 0.01" or no bang. Sort your primers while they are still in the brass (primer pocket). It's so much easier that way. Lots to talk about. Join us. Scroll down to bottom of this page and look for the MeWe invitations aardvarkreloading.com/index.html
@@helpmenowmark Hey Mark. love the videos. What do you think about a device that can make primer cups and anvils from sheets of metal? Do you think primer reloaders would find such as device useful? I've been working on one for a while and would like to have some opinions as I would like see about selling a few of them for testing. Thanks!
@@schoof5054 I'd say it would be wonderful. One of our users successfully made an anvil maker/punch but he has his own one-of-a-kind. I have some notes on the thickness of the metal sheets ..uh somewhere. In the small primer world (excluding talks for Large primers for now) I do know the thickness of any primer cup is .015" It's the bottoms of the cups that differ. I have a vid rumble.com/v2eeonf-sorting-random-small-primers.html I venture to say that I'd concentrate on the cups - because the anvils (for both lp and sp) usually survive but it's the cups that take the beating (distort the most). Have you joined us on mewe? Seems to me you did. See: www.AardvarkReloading.com (at the bottom of the page ... join the MeWe Groups).
Got ya' covered aardvarkreloading.com/H48.html Wash your barrel out with warm water (is better than just cold) and a mild detergent. Dry and oil up noŕmally. PrimeAll is H48. Kids caps are weaker version of H48 but corrosive as well. Seek the noncorosive recipe called eph 20 in Marshalls document
Thanks for the update
thanks
What is the best method to reform flat bottom of primer cups? Is it possible / nessesary to get exterior and interior of cup flat and smooth ?
Good question(s). We must repurpose most of our tools.
But a company called NOE recognized the value of what we do. Primer reloaders need round resized cups as well as a "de-dimpled" cup bottoms.
Here's a page from Aardvark
aardvarkreloading.com/primers.html
Scroll down until you find the de-dimple methods (and the NOE tool)
The cups must be re-flattened. A gap between the nose of the anvil and the bottom of the cup must exist (i call it the pinch gap). The powder is compressed and the ingredients rub against each other.
Its explained here.
rumble.com/vtj5g9-homemade-primers-how-primers-work.html
We think that gap must be 0.01" or no bang.
Sort your primers while they are still in the brass (primer pocket). It's so much easier that way.
Lots to talk about.
Join us.
Scroll down to bottom of this page
and look for the MeWe invitations
aardvarkreloading.com/index.html
@@helpmenowmark Hey Mark. love the videos. What do you think about a device that can make primer cups and anvils from sheets of metal? Do you think primer reloaders would find such as device useful? I've been working on one for a while and would like to have some opinions as I would like see about selling a few of them for testing.
Thanks!
@@schoof5054 I'd say it would be wonderful. One of our users successfully made an anvil maker/punch but he has his own one-of-a-kind. I have some notes on the thickness of the metal sheets ..uh somewhere.
In the small primer world (excluding talks for Large primers for now) I do know the thickness of any primer cup is .015"
It's the bottoms of the cups that differ. I have a vid
rumble.com/v2eeonf-sorting-random-small-primers.html
I venture to say that I'd concentrate on the cups - because the anvils (for both lp and sp) usually survive but it's the cups that take the beating (distort the most).
Have you joined us on mewe? Seems to me you did.
See: www.AardvarkReloading.com (at the bottom of the page ... join the MeWe Groups).
H48 priming powder series needed. Methods and tips.
Got ya' covered
aardvarkreloading.com/H48.html
Wash your barrel out with warm water (is better than just cold) and a mild detergent. Dry and oil up noŕmally.
PrimeAll is H48. Kids caps are weaker version of H48 but corrosive as well.
Seek the noncorosive recipe called eph 20 in Marshalls document
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