28#, sounds right. Maybe more for the larger frame and wheels. I remember mine, so light and supple, I don't know why they bothered with titanium and suspension. That classic original rock hopper was the bees knees, steel is real and rigid is manly. Yep, the only bike anyone needs, totally worth the resto, fruity paint and all. Bet you could get at least 28# for it after fixing it up.
I had a rockhopper that I bought second hand in about 1992. My first mountain bike and a game changer with it's lightness and toughness. I know as gutted when it got stolen
@@MonkeyShred Oh, it was light compared to the steel 5 speed Peugot Record du Monde sort of tourer bike that I had from childhood to early 20s. That had stainless steel mudguards. I remember lifting the Rockhopper over a farmer's gate and letting it down with one hand. Nowadays bikes are lighter still.
Woah! Also have this exact 89 RH Comp in the same colorway. Stuck seatpost too but its all the way into the seattube so it’ll be a tough pull. Soaking it daily in PB Blaster through the BB and bottle cage holes. Then will put it into a vice and use the frame as the lever. Got lucky the paint and components are in good shape. Looking forward to seeing yours after painting.
Who’s the weirdo that’s give this vid a thumbs down? I don’t get it, if you’re not enjoying the video just move on. Don’t watch it then give it a thumbs down. Very strange.
Ah don't worry. You're free to like and dislike as you see fit. I do always appreciate a comment with what made you dislike though. Can't make any changes if I don't know what the "problem" is!
It was actually £70 he turned down. I forgot I just didn't want to break a tenner to give him £75. He did say "I wish I'd accepted your offer!" when I picked it up!
Any ideas on how to extract the small bolt that secures a brake lever to the handlebars? Someone stripped the hex bolt and I tried to drill it out. Also tried jb welding an allen key to it. No Dice...at wits end. Maybe I will try filing 2 flats to get a adjustable wrench on it but I'd thought ask for advice. Thanks
@@johnhanley9946 yeah probably will do that idk. I'd really like to sell the brake levers as a set they are nice dia-compe vintage ones.When I get off the internet will try to file some flats and try to get adjustable wrench on it.
@@myvicariouslife4012 The problem is, if it's aluminum it's pretty much done for, that's what happened to me. Mine was only a 2.5mm hex bolt though, so there was no way to file flats on it or anything like that...
Tough one! I know whoever had that Scott Team I had drilled straight through the bloody levers mounting point when the bolt rounded or cross threaded. I'm going to try and repair that with some metal putty, Not that that's a help to your situation.... filing two flats could work! Fingers crossed! Can you try a bit of heat too maybe to try and loosen things up? Or even stick them in the freezer?
@@MonkeyShred Ok, thanks for the response. I will try filing another flat for a phillips screwdrive type fit. After that I will stick them in the freezer for a while lol. I do not have a heat gun though.
I've had a few with bent levers so it must have been a common problem! I'm just a bit wary of bending back aluminium.... I've had a brake caliper snap before when I tried to straighten that.
When cantilevers are dialed in right and adjusted properly they are almost as good imho. You will know when they are right when u pull brake lever and can hear the click like noise as both brake pads hit at same time. V brakes are easier to adjust in my book.
I like cantilevers vs v brakes as they feel like they engage more. V brakes have to be balanced by alternate turns of a screw to get the balance right and even then, a sudden bump in the road will unbalance them. Cantilevers are mostly set and forget and have a more consistent bite. My opinion, I’m sure others will disagree.
Good question. As the others have commented - it depends on your setup. I've got some good setups out of canti's with just the right positioning and great pads. I've also had terrible braking from canti's. I recently switched from cantis to mini Vs on one bike and the difference was night and day! I think in general, V's will be stronger but I seem to prefer canti's. I think they're a bit more pleasing on the eye too.
@@MonkeyShred Yes canti’s especially in chrome or silver really give it a better 80’s vibe. V brakes are more 90’s and beyond, relegated to budget builds these days. Whenever a manufacturer uses canti’s in the modern era, it’s for a particular aesthetic.
Nice job; I had an '88 base Rockhopper pre-Direct Drive & with the U-brake in...1988! Thanks for the memories, AND keeping it original. 😊👍
I think it had to be kept original really! Nearly all my vintage bikes are original now. I think they should be kept that way
That bike takes me back
Hope you enjoyed the trip!
So much to admire on this one. Having seen Part II, it's clear you were determined to restore it to original spec.
Oh yes. I wanted this one to be a corker.
28#, sounds right. Maybe more for the larger frame and wheels.
I remember mine, so light and supple, I don't know why they bothered with titanium and suspension. That classic original rock hopper was the bees knees, steel is real and rigid is manly. Yep, the only bike anyone needs, totally worth the resto, fruity paint and all. Bet you could get at least 28# for it after fixing it up.
I had a rockhopper that I bought second hand in about 1992. My first mountain bike and a game changer with it's lightness and toughness. I know as gutted when it got stolen
I mean it's not the lightest thing in the world but it's a whole lot lighter than some of the other builds I've done recently!
@@MonkeyShred Oh, it was light compared to the steel 5 speed Peugot Record du Monde sort of tourer bike that I had from childhood to early 20s. That had stainless steel mudguards. I remember lifting the Rockhopper over a farmer's gate and letting it down with one hand. Nowadays bikes are lighter still.
Another great video thx. I can not wait to see final results thou. A little bit of a teaser with you riding the finished project not fare (LOL) cheers
I was originally going to make one long video so I had to film a little extra to break it up ;)
Woah! Also have this exact 89 RH Comp in the same colorway. Stuck seatpost too but its all the way into the seattube so it’ll be a tough pull. Soaking it daily in PB Blaster through the BB and bottle cage holes. Then will put it into a vice and use the frame as the lever. Got lucky the paint and components are in good shape. Looking forward to seeing yours after painting.
Hopefully the seat post on yours releases as easily as mine did and doesn't end up being a nightmare like I've had on a Scott!
Cool video dude!👍very informative thank you!❤️🏴
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed!
I have this bike in yellow. Looking forward to what you do to it! See if I can’t borrow some ideas
The yellow was a nice scheme too!
Who’s the weirdo that’s give this vid a thumbs down? I don’t get it, if you’re not enjoying the video just move on. Don’t watch it then give it a thumbs down. Very strange.
Ah don't worry. You're free to like and dislike as you see fit. I do always appreciate a comment with what made you dislike though. Can't make any changes if I don't know what the "problem" is!
Hi, I'm restoring a HardRock from same year - can you remember the seatpost diameter please? Thanks, good video!
Well can't beat that price! lol
I wish I could still find bikes that cheap and that well spec'd! I bought it in 2018!
Bet the previous owner was gutted didn’t accept £60 lol
It was actually £70 he turned down. I forgot I just didn't want to break a tenner to give him £75. He did say "I wish I'd accepted your offer!" when I picked it up!
i jus got today Giant Granite 1990 bike and is so small lol )) all 90 bikes was so small?
Nope. Most came in 4/5 sizes. Something like 15" / 17" / 19" / 21" / 23"
@@MonkeyShred i think my is 17 ) i love this bike) light frame .im gona upgrade alot thinks on it
cracking bike
Definitely is, especially now it's finished!
I buy 88’ RH with Ubrake on back for 50€ last week.
Any ideas on how to extract the small bolt that secures a brake lever to the handlebars? Someone stripped the hex bolt and I tried to drill it out. Also tried jb welding an allen key to it. No Dice...at wits end. Maybe I will try filing 2 flats to get a adjustable wrench on it but I'd thought ask for advice. Thanks
This happened to me with a shifter, and I had to cut it off.
@@johnhanley9946 yeah probably will do that idk. I'd really like to sell the brake levers as a set they are nice dia-compe vintage ones.When I get off the internet will try to file some flats and try to get adjustable wrench on it.
@@myvicariouslife4012 The problem is, if it's aluminum it's pretty much done for, that's what happened to me.
Mine was only a 2.5mm hex bolt though, so there was no way to file flats on it or anything like that...
Tough one! I know whoever had that Scott Team I had drilled straight through the bloody levers mounting point when the bolt rounded or cross threaded. I'm going to try and repair that with some metal putty, Not that that's a help to your situation.... filing two flats could work! Fingers crossed! Can you try a bit of heat too maybe to try and loosen things up? Or even stick them in the freezer?
@@MonkeyShred Ok, thanks for the response. I will try filing another flat for a phillips screwdrive type fit. After that I will stick them in the freezer for a while lol. I do not have a heat gun though.
I had the same problem with twisted deore 89's brake levers (Known problem with this levers ?) I simply straightened them up with a vice ;-)
I've had a few with bent levers so it must have been a common problem! I'm just a bit wary of bending back aluminium.... I've had a brake caliper snap before when I tried to straighten that.
Are cantilever brakes better than v brakes?
When cantilevers are dialed in right and adjusted properly they are almost as good imho. You will know when they are right when u pull brake lever and can hear the click like noise as both brake pads hit at same time. V brakes are easier to adjust in my book.
I like cantilevers vs v brakes as they feel like they engage more. V brakes have to be balanced by alternate turns of a screw to get the balance right and even then, a sudden bump in the road will unbalance them. Cantilevers are mostly set and forget and have a more consistent bite. My opinion, I’m sure others will disagree.
Good question. As the others have commented - it depends on your setup. I've got some good setups out of canti's with just the right positioning and great pads. I've also had terrible braking from canti's. I recently switched from cantis to mini Vs on one bike and the difference was night and day! I think in general, V's will be stronger but I seem to prefer canti's. I think they're a bit more pleasing on the eye too.
@@MonkeyShred Yes canti’s especially in chrome or silver really give it a better 80’s vibe. V brakes are more 90’s and beyond, relegated to budget builds these days. Whenever a manufacturer uses canti’s in the modern era, it’s for a particular aesthetic.
How much does it cost to have bike frame sprayed professionally?
I’m not sure for prof spray job but it cost me £80 to get a frame powder coated
Totally depends on what you want done and where you're getting it done. I think you could be looking at anywhere from £300+
How can I find the year of my Rockhopper Comp? It’s purple and green and around 1991 give or take a few years.
Go to the retrobike site and look through the specialized catalogs around that time.
@@jp93309 thanks. Looks like mine is a 93, too bad the catalog was in German though 😂
Save those links ;) The Retrobike archive is super useful!
no entiendo porque hay que romper los puños para quitarlos
Lo siento. No entiendo ‘los puños’. Que son ‘los puños’ en ingles?
@@MonkeyShred grips to hanlebar 😉
@@TheChimpomtb Oh! I don’t have to. It was the easiest way because I had new ones!
@@MonkeyShred alcohol !!