There is exactly ZERO reasons for car disc brake cleaner to contain ANY lubricant. They serve to exactly SAME purpose as bike disc cleaners do, so only difference could be retail price. Also, automotive segment do not sponsor GMBN Tech, so perhaps...
So, you're totally wrong. These Brakecleaners are using a protection, you can clearly see leaving a resedue on the brakes. For automotive, it will be a no problem. But the tiny Brakes on the bike can not handle it. Always using something without any protection, like Acetone.
I'm sorry, but I don't think I need specific bike brake cleaner. Any automotive cleaner will do the job. What's that with it might have lubricant in it? It's made to clean disks!
Lubricant is made to reduce friction, I for example usually use WD-40 for my suspension and it usually drips down onto the discs. The result is brakes that barely get any grip at all, they also sound terrible.
@@TriqxterRB yeah, exactly. Why do you want lubricant on your brakes? You don't... Automotive brake cleaner doesn't have any lubricants, as again, yon do not want lubricants on your brakes especially on a car.... Yet the host said "don't use automotive brake cleaner" which is just fake information
The bike industry is so weird, I've been working on cars and bikes for 25+ years and I've never bought any bike specific cleaning or lube products except carbon friction paste. Also sanding those rotors without using a flat surface could lead to high/low spots which will cause chatter...
Quite a bit of misleading info here. - No disc brake cleaner will have lubricant in them, especially the automotive types. - Sanding rotors like that will damage them if sanded too hard or won't do a thing if sanded too lightly. - Discoloration comes from overheating the rotors. The worst ones I've seen had all the rainbow until blue, meaning they've reached above 300 Celcius at some point. That will not affect your braking at all (excluding time they are hot in the form of brake fade), but in rare occasions excesive heat can warp the rotors if they are cheap, or get in contact with water while heated. Just clean and check the width of your rotors from time to time and throughly clean them if you are changing pads. That's all the maintenence you will need
Thanks I think you saved me from getting specific sandpaper and a bunch of unnecessary shit. I'm changing pads, different type even, (organic over to sintered). I'm going to thoroughly clean the rotors with the brake cleaner I already have, swap pads, bed them in and move on with my life.
I find it a bit sad that GMBN is turning into a product advertising site... Peaty's is a business venture by Steve Peat... Any brake cleaner for the automotive industry with trichlorethylene works perfectly. If your brakes work well, do not touch them, you only have to clean them if you know they have been contaminated. And if you sand the discs as you teach, what you are going to kill is the flat disk surface...
Do you expect them to do these videos for you for free? I don’t see you chipping in any money! This is their business. They have to make money to run the business, pay the bills and feed and house the family. And no, it’s just about impossible to kill the flat surface with sandpaper.
Yeah all this bike specific stuff is ridiculous, I'm a engine builder and machinist and use to be a detailer so I got tons of chemicals and detergents and cleaners and when I walked into the bike shop they were trying to sell me all kinds of bullshit, and then he told me that simple green had AMMONIA in it and not to use it lmfao, like brother no it doesnt
Either the chair is too high or the bench needs raising. If I was you Anna I would raise this issue with HR regarding a poorly setup working environment.
Maybe she misspoke, but she mentioned bike cleaners, they can be super slippery and effectively lubricate the rotor, I experienced this with Motorex, it was like dish washing soap, super slippery, and if not blasting the rotors brakes would get contaminated, Finish Line, Muc Off don't do this. But yes they at least not to the same degree. But degreasers you are meant to wash off will be like this too, the one from Muc Off is, but not the Dry degreaser, they dry, no rinsing needed.
Great point! Acetone is a lot stronger. We'd only suggest using that if IPA doesn't work and you take extra safety precautions and have previous professional experience using it. 👍
Did that to my Code Rotors and Pads after just bleeding the brake was not successful and it really worked for me. No need to replace all that. Cleaning and sanding a bit does the job quite well.
There is absolutely no difference whatsoevet between auto and bike discs, auto disc cleaner will work fine on bikes and vice versa. And who in their right mind would ever put wd40 on a disc!!
I have noticed that on GMBN every now and then they talk about CLEANING disk brakes. For more than 10 years how long I ride bike with disk brakes I had only once problem, when I by accident spray wd40 on rear disk. And that was when I started to work on my bikes long time ago. Honestly disc brakes are realy hard to be dirty, because surfaces of breaking pads and discs are very ofter in contact, creating friction and high temperatures. So they cleaning them selfs. I have never used disc breake cleaner or sand paper on them, no need.
I don't think I have gotten much contaminants on them, but cleaning and "resurfacing" helped a bunch of times against squeeky or underperforming brakes. I think it's actually not getting them hot enough that often causes issues for me, but I can't magically make bigger hills appear..
if you ridde in contaminated puddles, like with oil leaks by tractors, cars and so on, you can contaminate the brakes. but if it's wet and you brake a lot the rotors might eventuality work better, but always best to clean them if they are contaminated. But without any contaminants there is no need to clean them. Resurfacing on the other hand you sohuld do when it's glazed.
The rotors you are resurfacing look like Shimano XT Ice-Tech (SM-RT86?). The stainless steel surfaces on these rotors are "sandwiched" over an an aluminum core. Personally, I would resist removing any of the stainless on these rotors by sanding them. In my experience, these rotors will get a "burnt" looking color---the price you pay for the technology. This does not affect the performance, just clean them thoroughly with alcohol. Finally, I would emphisize replacing these rotors once the thickness has reached 1.5 mm. Sanding is acceptable if your rotors are solid stainless.
I use ISO and regular paper towels and no special cleaner. When commuting my bike gets absolutely filthy, whether it's road dirt, salt, corrosion, etc. My trail bikes stay much cleaner. Depending on your conditions YMMV. The motorway was a good example because roads are littered with a different kind of filth than good ole' trail dirt. I'll spray the pads with some ISO and then wipe them clean. Sometimes with bad weather/salt they get some corrosion (I always use metal pads). In that case I take some 220 wet/dry paper and give them a quick sand following by ISO clean. As for rotors I don't tend to mess with them too much unless swapping to new pads. I like the ISO/sanding here as well before bedding, or anytime there is a lack of bite. Once bedded they tend to work fine thereafter.
Nice video,my rotors ended up cleaning themselves,no need to de-glaze them and now they bite really nicely.Looking forward to the next tech video,pedal and cleat maintenance would be a cool topic.💯✌🏻👌🏻
437k people were just exposed to bad advice. Do no try to refinish rotors with a sand paper. It will create high and low spots. Which will create vibration and pulsing.
Can you print a retraction automotive brake clean is the same a bike , it has zero lube in it as it is designed to clean rotors and remove all oil. Wd40 is different
I've got SRAM rotors and the braking has suddenly become crap even though new pads are in and I cleaned the rotors. The rotors have gone a browny golden colour where the pads touch and they do get hot quick. Is it time to replace them?
My nephew just bought new disk brakes, nothing high-end, he bought Shimano Altus. I was wondering if he should clean the rotors? And if yes, will alcohol swabs/wipes work?
They'll work, but half of the "action" is using a rag or microfiber, something that actually abrases the rotors. Just dabbing and trying to scrub with an alcohol wipe won't be enough.
Do you know why my brakes stops gripping after cleaning rotors with disc brake cleaner? Just wiping rotors with rag and after that brakes feel like they’ve contamined. Im not sure if winter has something to do with this, but so you know what could be reason?
You probably need to bed them in, there is lots of advice online on how to do it, but basically just gradually brake harder and from higher speeds, to heat stuff? Idk the specifics, but yh bed them in
OT... In my MTB experience (many years now) disc brakes are robust and hard to contaminate. Just general care is needed, i.e. keep lubes away. *Have you had unexplainable contaminated MTB disk brakes? Just ready the other comments and this does seem to be out of place "How to".
Where do you actually buy Isopropyl Alcohol? You can pick up Methylated Spirit (the purple stuff) in DIY stores and even supermarkets, but I have never seen Isopropyl Alcohol on the shelves anywhere. Also can you not just use Methylated Spirit? It is good for removing any grease and oils before painting. I have used it as a substitute on my brakes before without any negative effects.
Try a hardware store, I bought mine at Würth. Ask for Isopropyl alcohol. It might be labeled as IPA Cleaner, in Germany it can be labeled as IPA-Reininger, Which is what Würth uses. IPA is the english abbreviation. The can says Isopropanol on mine, But that's in Norway. But as am in Norway it's called Isopropanol, or isopropylalkohol.
#askgmbntech How can I determine which size brake mount adaptor I need? Recently swapped dropouts on my SantaCruz Chameleon; 27.5+ to 29er. The old dropouts included a 40mm side-mount adaptor. The new 29er dropouts are top (or post) mount, and did not come with an adaptor. My 180mm rotor 'bottoms out' in the caliper before the axle lines up. Seems like I need a top mount adaptor to raise the caliper, but how to determine the size? Love the show, thanks!! #askgmbntech
I'm pretty sure that automotive brake cleaner is the exact same stuff as one meant for bicycles (acetone) and the only difference is significantly lower price. I can't think of a single reason anyone would add lubricants to a brake cleaner. That makes zero sense.
Great video. I will be doing this on my bike, my calliper may be leaking as they are brand new brakes and they squeak and don’t work properly (rear only)
Soooo automotive cleaner is ok for cars and motorbikes which have their rotors constantly on the open on the road but they are bad for bikes which were transported like 1-2-3 hours ? oh dear
I hate this so much, but thank you. I'm so looking forward to RegenBraking replacing this mess, entirely. So much time & money lost, on this garbage system.
This vulnerable, garbage system, you have to baby way more then ebike batteries. What if the disk could be sealed from the environment, but still be cooled down? Like some kind of box, with a fan, air to air heat exchanger and filter for the brake dust. Or just be done with this entirely for dual motor Regenerative Braking.
This is why I unsubscribed from all your channels. You guys have ruined this channel by shilling products. I thought I’d click this one and see if it was different, but nope. Still on that same unethical behaviour.
youre going to die on trails i went brakeless on bmx on a small easy trail and was prepared to fall the whole ride. mostly because i had one foot off the pedals to brake but yea bmxs look cooler without brakes though and actually my brakes didnt even work
There is exactly ZERO reasons for car disc brake cleaner to contain ANY lubricant. They serve to exactly SAME purpose as bike disc cleaners do, so only difference could be retail price.
Also, automotive segment do not sponsor GMBN Tech, so perhaps...
the comment i was looking for. I buy mine in 5L canisters an use a pump bottle. Also WAY less waste then buying 300ml aerosol sprays.
Exactly 🎉
So, you're totally wrong.
These Brakecleaners are using a protection, you can clearly see leaving a resedue on the brakes.
For automotive, it will be a no problem.
But the tiny Brakes on the bike can not handle it.
Always using something without any protection, like Acetone.
Automotive brake cleaner may contain lubricants. I’ve never laughed so much since I saw Ebike specific cleaner advertised.
I'm sorry, but I don't think I need specific bike brake cleaner. Any automotive cleaner will do the job. What's that with it might have lubricant in it? It's made to clean disks!
Lubricant is made to reduce friction, I for example usually use WD-40 for my suspension and it usually drips down onto the discs. The result is brakes that barely get any grip at all, they also sound terrible.
I'm using automotive disk brake cleaner, works fine and it's much cheaper.
@@TriqxterRB yeah, exactly. Why do you want lubricant on your brakes? You don't... Automotive brake cleaner doesn't have any lubricants, as again, yon do not want lubricants on your brakes especially on a car.... Yet the host said "don't use automotive brake cleaner" which is just fake information
Brake clean is brake clean . Lube is lube
The bike industry is so weird, I've been working on cars and bikes for 25+ years and I've never bought any bike specific cleaning or lube products except carbon friction paste. Also sanding those rotors without using a flat surface could lead to high/low spots which will cause chatter...
Yep it's a faff the bike trade..
Concordo plenamente!🇧🇷
Quite a bit of misleading info here.
- No disc brake cleaner will have lubricant in them, especially the automotive types.
- Sanding rotors like that will damage them if sanded too hard or won't do a thing if sanded too lightly.
- Discoloration comes from overheating the rotors. The worst ones I've seen had all the rainbow until blue, meaning they've reached above 300 Celcius at some point. That will not affect your braking at all (excluding time they are hot in the form of brake fade), but in rare occasions excesive heat can warp the rotors if they are cheap, or get in contact with water while heated.
Just clean and check the width of your rotors from time to time and throughly clean them if you are changing pads. That's all the maintenence you will need
Great info. You are correct.
Thanks I think you saved me from getting specific sandpaper and a bunch of unnecessary shit. I'm changing pads, different type even, (organic over to sintered). I'm going to thoroughly clean the rotors with the brake cleaner I already have, swap pads, bed them in and move on with my life.
I find it a bit sad that GMBN is turning into a product advertising site... Peaty's is a business venture by Steve Peat... Any brake cleaner for the automotive industry with trichlorethylene works perfectly. If your brakes work well, do not touch them, you only have to clean them if you know they have been contaminated. And if you sand the discs as you teach, what you are going to kill is the flat disk surface...
Ok mom🙄
Do you expect them to do these videos for you for free? I don’t see you chipping in any money! This is their business. They have to make money to run the business, pay the bills and feed and house the family. And no, it’s just about impossible to kill the flat surface with sandpaper.
@@Shawn-in-da-Canyongrifters gonna grift...
Yeah all this bike specific stuff is ridiculous, I'm a engine builder and machinist and use to be a detailer so I got tons of chemicals and detergents and cleaners and when I walked into the bike shop they were trying to sell me all kinds of bullshit, and then he told me that simple green had AMMONIA in it and not to use it lmfao, like brother no it doesnt
120 sand paper is way coarse for this purpose.
Pensei logo isso quando vi a lixa!🇧🇷
600, 1000, 2000 and polishing it and of course cleaning it with ipa is the way to go.
Either the chair is too high or the bench needs raising. If I was you Anna I would raise this issue with HR regarding a poorly setup working environment.
It just does what it's told.
lubricants in brake cleaners?...ive never heard such wrong information sorry.
Maybe she misspoke, but she mentioned bike cleaners, they can be super slippery and effectively lubricate the rotor, I experienced this with Motorex, it was like dish washing soap, super slippery, and if not blasting the rotors brakes would get contaminated, Finish Line, Muc Off don't do this. But yes they at least not to the same degree.
But degreasers you are meant to wash off will be like this too, the one from Muc Off is, but not the Dry degreaser, they dry, no rinsing needed.
According to Ollie from GCN, (phd in chemistry) acetone is the most effective grease cleaner, that doesn’t leave residue 👌
I agree,acetone is and it's much stronger than IPA but more hazardous.💯👍🏻
It's a more potent solvent but it has the disadvantadge of attacking plastics and rubber seals
@@neiv9574 correct, be careful with acetone!
Great point! Acetone is a lot stronger. We'd only suggest using that if IPA doesn't work and you take extra safety precautions and have previous professional experience using it. 👍
"Something of a fine grit", shows a 120 paper, lmao. Also, in what world a car disc brake cleaner contains a lubricant?
Did that to my Code Rotors and Pads after just bleeding the brake was not successful and it really worked for me. No need to replace all that. Cleaning and sanding a bit does the job quite well.
Nice one! Good to know, Henrik! We're glad that worked for you! It's a nightmare having to replace pads and rotors. 😬
I feel like a sanding block would be better if you want to scuff the flat surface than sand paper and your fingers
There is absolutely no difference whatsoevet between auto and bike discs, auto disc cleaner will work fine on bikes and vice versa. And who in their right mind would ever put wd40 on a disc!!
Isopropyl alcohol is what i use, the ones that have no fragrance on it.
Nice one! That's perfect! 👍
I have noticed that on GMBN every now and then they talk about CLEANING disk brakes.
For more than 10 years how long I ride bike with disk brakes I had only once problem, when I by accident spray wd40 on rear disk. And that was when I started to work on my bikes long time ago.
Honestly disc brakes are realy hard to be dirty, because surfaces of breaking pads and discs are very ofter in contact, creating friction and high temperatures. So they cleaning them selfs.
I have never used disc breake cleaner or sand paper on them, no need.
I don't think I have gotten much contaminants on them, but cleaning and "resurfacing" helped a bunch of times against squeeky or underperforming brakes. I think it's actually not getting them hot enough that often causes issues for me, but I can't magically make bigger hills appear..
Unless you get oil on them, they're fine as they are.
if you ridde in contaminated puddles, like with oil leaks by tractors, cars and so on, you can contaminate the brakes. but if it's wet and you brake a lot the rotors might eventuality work better, but always best to clean them if they are contaminated.
But without any contaminants there is no need to clean them. Resurfacing on the other hand you sohuld do when it's glazed.
I am surprised to hear you saying there might be lubricants in disc automotive brake cleaners. That can't be right.
Yeah. It's not right. The automotive stuff is cheaper and works just fine IMO.
Any bike specific cleaning/ maintenance product is a rip off. Automotive brake cleaner is perfectly fine to use.
$3 at Walmart
Video starts at 5:11
People sure like to hear themselves talk don’t they.
@@KevisSquatchin yeah I do this time stamp often.
What can I use to make my discs waterproof, to protect from rust? Thanks
The rotors you are resurfacing look like Shimano XT Ice-Tech (SM-RT86?). The stainless steel surfaces on these rotors are "sandwiched" over an an aluminum core. Personally, I would resist removing any of the stainless on these rotors by sanding them. In my experience, these rotors will get a "burnt" looking color---the price you pay for the technology. This does not affect the performance, just clean them thoroughly with alcohol. Finally, I would emphisize replacing these rotors once the thickness has reached 1.5 mm.
Sanding is acceptable if your rotors are solid stainless.
Thanks again.
Thanks for watching, Eric! 👍
What's the best grit of sandpaper to use when resurfacing the rotors and pads??
Anna great video!!! cheers🤟
🙄🙄🙄🤦♂🤦♂🤦♂
Thank you! 😃
Automotive brake cleaner doesn't leave residues it is its purpose 😂
Geez. It's also cheaper than the overpriced bike specific ones.
Didn't know what y said
Car break cleaner I use all time
I use ISO and regular paper towels and no special cleaner. When commuting my bike gets absolutely filthy, whether it's road dirt, salt, corrosion, etc. My trail bikes stay much cleaner. Depending on your conditions YMMV. The motorway was a good example because roads are littered with a different kind of filth than good ole' trail dirt.
I'll spray the pads with some ISO and then wipe them clean. Sometimes with bad weather/salt they get some corrosion (I always use metal pads). In that case I take some 220 wet/dry paper and give them a quick sand following by ISO clean.
As for rotors I don't tend to mess with them too much unless swapping to new pads. I like the ISO/sanding here as well before bedding, or anytime there is a lack of bite. Once bedded they tend to work fine thereafter.
Nice video,my rotors ended up cleaning themselves,no need to de-glaze them and now they bite really nicely.Looking forward to the next tech video,pedal and cleat maintenance would be a cool topic.💯✌🏻👌🏻
You won't need to sand them rotor nor pads until they are glazed.
Thanks for the support, Reinhold! Cheers for the content suggestion!
437k people were just exposed to bad advice. Do no try to refinish rotors with a sand paper. It will create high and low spots. Which will create vibration and pulsing.
Then what do you recommend using instead of sandpaper?
@@No_ReGretzkys99 the proper way is to use a lathe.
Can you print a retraction automotive brake clean is the same a bike , it has zero lube in it as it is designed to clean rotors and remove all oil. Wd40 is different
I've got SRAM rotors and the braking has suddenly become crap even though new pads are in and I cleaned the rotors. The rotors have gone a browny golden colour where the pads touch and they do get hot quick. Is it time to replace them?
Circular motion sanding? I had success using 220 grit and a back-and-forth motion. Good stuff GNBN.
My nephew just bought new disk brakes, nothing high-end, he bought Shimano Altus. I was wondering if he should clean the rotors? And if yes, will alcohol swabs/wipes work?
They'll work, but half of the "action" is using a rag or microfiber, something that actually abrases the rotors. Just dabbing and trying to scrub with an alcohol wipe won't be enough.
Pleas3 help me I use 100% alcohol to clean rotor and my brake dont work. When I press brake my bike go. What to do?
Do you know why my brakes stops gripping after cleaning rotors with disc brake cleaner? Just wiping rotors with rag and after that brakes feel like they’ve contamined. Im not sure if winter has something to do with this, but so you know what could be reason?
You probably need to bed them in, there is lots of advice online on how to do it, but basically just gradually brake harder and from higher speeds, to heat stuff? Idk the specifics, but yh bed them in
OT... In my MTB experience (many years now) disc brakes are robust and hard to contaminate. Just general care is needed, i.e. keep lubes away.
*Have you had unexplainable contaminated MTB disk brakes?
Just ready the other comments and this does seem to be out of place "How to".
Where do you actually buy Isopropyl Alcohol? You can pick up Methylated Spirit (the purple stuff) in DIY stores and even supermarkets, but I have never seen Isopropyl Alcohol on the shelves anywhere. Also can you not just use Methylated Spirit? It is good for removing any grease and oils before painting. I have used it as a substitute on my brakes before without any negative effects.
Pharmacy.
Try a hardware store, I bought mine at Würth. Ask for Isopropyl alcohol. It might be labeled as IPA Cleaner, in Germany it can be labeled as IPA-Reininger, Which is what Würth uses. IPA is the english abbreviation.
The can says Isopropanol on mine, But that's in Norway. But as am in Norway it's called Isopropanol, or isopropylalkohol.
Is isopropyl alcohol not common on the east side of the Atlantic?
Thanks Anna! This helped a lot
I've never noticed glazed rotors and I ride all year in Canada . I just throw them away when they are below spec.
#askgmbntech How can I determine which size brake mount adaptor I need? Recently swapped dropouts on my SantaCruz Chameleon; 27.5+ to 29er. The old dropouts included a 40mm side-mount adaptor. The new 29er dropouts are top (or post) mount, and did not come with an adaptor. My 180mm rotor 'bottoms out' in the caliper before the axle lines up. Seems like I need a top mount adaptor to raise the caliper, but how to determine the size? Love the show, thanks!! #askgmbntech
Why not put it in the dischwasher? bad idea?
Why not upgrading to a bigger rotor when you're toasting ur usual rotor?
I'm pretty sure that automotive brake cleaner is the exact same stuff as one meant for bicycles (acetone) and the only difference is significantly lower price. I can't think of a single reason anyone would add lubricants to a brake cleaner. That makes zero sense.
NAIL POLISH REMOVER AND SAND PAPER KICKS ASS. RUBBING ALCOHOL ON THE PADS THEN A LIGHT SAND WITH 220
I never clean them. I break them clean. Lol. Never have any braking problems.
Is a 40% vodka goes ok instead alcohol ?
should be yeah
not as powerful i guess but should do something
eto ruski sposob (its the russian way)
tempting, but there's a lot of "other" material in vodka. Everclear may work though.
Im not gunna leave any big disc jokes........i promise.
Somone lied about automotive brake cleaner not being safe.
they made brake cleaner illegal in canada.
Just in time video, just couple of days ago my forks blew Up and my front rotor got completely dipped in oil 🤣🤣
crc Brake-Kleen leaves no residue its automotive grade
Great video. I will be doing this on my bike, my calliper may be leaking as they are brand new brakes and they squeak and don’t work properly (rear only)
120 is not a fine grit 😂 I’d start at 320 or 500
Soooo automotive cleaner is ok for cars and motorbikes which have their rotors constantly on the open on the road but they are bad for bikes which were transported like 1-2-3 hours ?
oh dear
Reviso sempre os freios das minhas bikes ; segurança está neles
I hate this so much, but thank you. I'm so looking forward to RegenBraking replacing this mess, entirely. So much time & money lost, on this garbage system.
This vulnerable, garbage system, you have to baby way more then ebike batteries. What if the disk could be sealed from the environment, but still be cooled down? Like some kind of box, with a fan, air to air heat exchanger and filter for the brake dust. Or just be done with this entirely for dual motor Regenerative Braking.
Where did youi get the squirty bottle of alcohol from?
Is it ok to use car brake cleaner rather than there’s overpriced mic off and the like please ?
Or use rim brakes
This is why I unsubscribed from all your channels. You guys have ruined this channel by shilling products. I thought I’d click this one and see if it was different, but nope. Still on that same unethical behaviour.
A 10 min video of BS. Here I’ll save you the time of watching 10 minutes. Spray rotor with brake cleaner and wipe off with a microfiber cloth. 🤦🏽♂️
use a Torch !
Mmmmm
What a waste of time
Brakes were invented by cowards.😆
youre going to die on trails i went brakeless on bmx on a small easy trail and was prepared to fall the whole ride. mostly because i had one foot off the pedals to brake but yea
bmxs look cooler without brakes though and actually my brakes didnt even work
First like
im 2nd 🙋🏻♂️
I’m 3rd
🥇Cheers! 🙌