You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ruclips.net/user/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
Hey if it works for you, I'm not going to argue with it. Personally, I like seeing my tenon span from wall to wall. The wall provides good support for the tenon and makes what I feel is an overall stronger joint. Probably semantics, but it works for me.
Just love the Wood Whisperer. Thank you. I've watched your videos for years and you're my go-to for the final word on woodworking. I'm making a bed and this video was just what I needed to dial-in my skills. Thank you!
This is a gem. I'm newer to the channel and love some of the more recent videos you've posted. When I saw this video, I thought the beginning was a "throwback" intro and then it was going to cut to "the Wood Whisperer I knew". Then it continued and I looked that the date of the video. Love that you've been doing it this long. Thanks for all the great content.
I use my Radial arm saw for cutting dados, tenons, and the occasional long crosscut.. Setup is quick for cutting tenons since the dado blade virtually lives in the RAS. Cleanup with a shoulder plane and a router plane makes cutting tenons a breeze.
Thank you for this video! I used some of your ideas for a bar table that wraps around the corner piece of a sectional table. Pocket holes for the leg assembly would have been much quicker and easier, but I didn't want to see the holes or screws. Downside, no table saw yet. Mortises all hand drilled with a forstner bit and the tenons.... with a miter saw! It worked great- thanks for the info!!
My mortise machine makes my mortise and tenon joints as flawlessly as advertised. My tenon cutting jig came from Norm Abrams. I broke down and finally got it 10 years ago. Now, this joint is far easier to me.
Everything about M&T joint, and more, and it just pupped up, thank you. I am about to make my first M&T joint. I wondered about many details, which I planned to search for. Today, I was watching something else and this video came up at the end! Sometimes, I think, I am not that unlucky which I think I am!
Please do a video on the different saws. Things like radial arm saw, table saw, chop saw, and which are better for tasks. Also maybe touch on the different type of saw blades for mortises, metal, softwood/hardwood, etc. Maybe even some tricks to prevent splintering when sawing though a piece or how to perfectly calibrate an angle cut on a chop saw. Love the show, keep it up!
Keep in mind this video was made about three years before Mattias posted the plans for his Pantarouter. I'm pretty good at quite a few things, but predicting the future isn't one of them. :)
Honestly, I'm not a big fan of making elaborate tools out of wood. If it's going to hold a spinning bit, I prefer metal and plastic. But if Mattia wants to send me one I'd be happy to try it out. :)
Hey, to each his own, but that's not the method I like to use. Yes, mating surface is important, but so is depth. And you have to take into account the thickness of the tenon board as well as the thickness of the adjoining piece. Once you get outside of a standard small frame piece, there are a lot more factors to consider besides the tenon itself. But I find my method gives me a good starting point.
The tenon jig seems more fussy than just doing it with a dado set. I think I could finish a tenon by hand quicker than it took to setup the tenoning jig.
If I was going to cut some rails for shaker doors with a table saw and a nice tenoning jig… how would y’all do that? My thought is cut the shoulder shallow, then cut the cheeks to test fit. Once I get the cheek right go back to clean up the shoulder.
Very instructive. Very informative. Very well done. Thank you for the tutorial. I have it saved to my playlist for later reference for when I am wood working
If you want to make square mortises and you don't have a mortising machine, you can rout the mortise , then use a mortising bit with drill bit removed, either with the drill press or a mallet to finish the ends.
Its come to my attention that pocket holes and screws have been around for longer then a craig jig. I've also found more then one version of the jig, one even auto adjust to the size of wood and sets up the drill stop all you have to do is clamp it tighten the Allen screw on the drill bit coler and pick the correct color screw, its dummy proof.
Thanks for the excellent video. In using the tenoning jig on the table saw, have you ever had the waste piece bind and kick back? Also, have you considered installing two blades in the table saw, separated by a spacer? That would allow you to cut both tenon cheeks simultaneously and give you excellent, repeatable control of the tenon thickness.
You can make a relatively square mortise with a Harry Watt square drill bit. Wiki: "in which a bit with a Reuleaux triangle cross section is allowed to "wobble" while it rotates within a square with rounded corners.."
Can you please do videos showing how to do this with limited tools. Say a table saw chisels a cordless drill, etc... It would be very nice if you did that in a lot of your videos since some of us are just beginners and don't have a dado blade. I do have a cheap router that looks nothing like yours.
I made a bed using a Jessem Mortise Mill. I was able to turn the MM upside down in a table/jig and could just lay the pieces on their side and use it horizontally. Not safe with a router, but the mortise mill uses a special drill bit. Lots of heavy clamping and it worked like a charm with no glitches. These aren't made anymore, but I think there's a market for something like this. The domino does something similar but is more limited as to depth. My Domino is much easier, but strong joints on long and large pieces is a limitation. I don't know if the Domino XL can handle tenons that are that long.
Hi Mark. I embrace all of your advice and I've got a question, if this video is still being monitored. Re: Colliding tenons within a slender table leg. Say, 3/4 inch thick apron and a 2 inch square leg. Should I think about shortening and maybe thinning the tenons? Will this significantly weaken the joint?
Well you obviously haven't used a butter-jet CNC machine! its really the latest and greatest in high pressure cutting, and can alternatively be used to inject steak or season popcorn.
love your videos marc,,im trying to get into morse and tendoning joinery but i saw the beadlock system at rockler and it really looks like it would be a good joint but there is alot of negative reviews on it,,the basic set is like 30.00 where as the pro is like a 150.00,,can you give me some advice on this system,,,the tendons is really expensive also,,for the amount you get
I have to say, I don't even have a workshop yet, but I spend WAY more time in my mind-Palace wood shop because it's an Escape from current events... When I have a real shop, I don't know if I'll ever come out, because I can have food and wood delivered right to my door.
You make truly great videos! I was glad that you were mentioning other types of joinery in the beginning of this video. I don't know much about it but was there a reason why you didn't mention dovetails? Are dovetails considered to be in the same realm of quality as mortis & tenon?
Dovetails are great joints. But they are for a different application. They are used when boards meet standing on edge vs when boards meet and are joined on the flat.
Ok, I've been woodworking for 15 years, and have used the routed mortises for 90% of my Mortise and Tenon joints--and I know, every pro I've seen says to either square the Mortise or round the tenon when you use this method. Call me lazy, but I've never done so--There's plenty of glue contact on the cheeks of the tenon that I don't worry about it. Is there some secret reason why we "should" do this step?
somw how u was asking my self why a dewalt when festool look so good, then I read it was a repost, im going to rewatch from episode 1, how long can it take me
When you said it was going to be fescool I expected you to mention their domino machine I just used it at my uncle workshop is awesome but super pricey.
when you make the tenon, can i just cut out the cheeks on 2 sides and leave the tenon the full length of the board? or would this not be as strong? i am doing draw boring, thanks
you should check out the mortising tool made by shop built on you tube it is a nice little mortise making tool and with his design you can make mortises on the end of long boards easy
Mark One option you didn't bring up, I was watching Stumpy Nubs channel and he was looking at a dresser that could have very well been made by shakers most of the joints were dovetails if you think about a dovetail it locks 2 parts togather Tightly you might not even need glue to hold them togather you could use wedges or dowls that show and the dovetail will never move. IMO that's the strongest joint. Let's say your making a table, the legs and stretchers fasten togather with dovetails and the top is held on with movable figure 8s and the wood can move with seasons that might very well outlast even our modern glues. Becuse a joint can only be as good as the glue that holds it togather, we don't know if some outside influences will turn our modern glues into mush. How can you study the long term of glues with out the time passage to evaluate them? You cant. We know what animal hyde glues do becuse time has showen us. Who knows tight bond II could be mush in 150 years. We just don't know. But a dovetail will always be its shape. If you look at old Japanese building they didn't use metal to hold things togather It was joinery that lasted 2k years or more with no glue or fasteners. Just friction fit that works with woods properties. Now all this comes to one point, how long you need somthing to last, how well its made, how much time you spend to make it and last but not least there always more then one way to skin a goat. Or is that goose or a bever or deer? Its funny looking at all the different parts of the world and the many different ways people made things and how they have lasted.
Huge fan.... would love to meet you sometime. Your in Arizona right? I think that is what my college buddy Matt Vanderlist told me. Quick question. You advocated 3/8" Tenon for 3/4 stock. I fought my equipment and could not pull it off. My Mortise jig would not go any closer than 1/8" from my table saw blade. Got to thinking about it and it seems like being 1/16" from the table saw blade is VERY tight perhaps dangerously so. Some other pages advocate using a tenon that is a third the width of the stock. Thus using a 1/4" tenon bit seems like it might be right. I believe my Mortise Jig will work for that. Am I thinking clearly???
Great video, showed it to my woodworking class today. They had some questions. Where can I buy that shirt? Do I have to use a Sponge Bob pencil? What is the work out plan for bulging biceps?
Wow that was a long time ago, so it might be tricky to track down the shirt at this point. As for the Spongebob question, it should be obvious that you can't possibly do good work without one. As for the workout program, I generally just lift Spongebob pencils. Secret to my success!
I have some not as many as I have seen on your videos. They are expensive and a few are unique like the Carvex and Domino. But the concept of vacuum integration is what sold me plus the support from Festool.
please dont use that blackline whirlygig graphic to show a passage of time. I thought your hoodie string was caught in the blade while using the tenon jig.
![Megan Thee Stallion - Roc Steady (feat. Flo Milli) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HozPPyqW0dY/mqdefault.jpg)
![I'm fully satisfied with this VERTICAL HOLDING JIG that I use most frequently [woodworking]](/img/1.gif)
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ruclips.net/user/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
The hallmark of a good instructor is concise and clear instructions, no waffling! You are an instructor! Well done!
Wow. This was so complete. Explains terminology, gotchas, and that the strength of the joint is in the long grain.
Hey if it works for you, I'm not going to argue with it. Personally, I like seeing my tenon span from wall to wall. The wall provides good support for the tenon and makes what I feel is an overall stronger joint. Probably semantics, but it works for me.
This was 11 years ago. Do you feel old? Your videos have always been top tier.
Ha! This was a repost from 2007. So 17 years old ;)
@@woodwhisperer You're Wood Wizard years old now!
Just love the Wood Whisperer. Thank you. I've watched your videos for years and you're my go-to for the final word on woodworking. I'm making a bed and this video was just what I needed to dial-in my skills. Thank you!
This is a gem. I'm newer to the channel and love some of the more recent videos you've posted. When I saw this video, I thought the beginning was a "throwback" intro and then it was going to cut to "the Wood Whisperer I knew". Then it continued and I looked that the date of the video. Love that you've been doing it this long. Thanks for all the great content.
I use my Radial arm saw for cutting dados, tenons, and the occasional long crosscut..
Setup is quick for cutting tenons since the dado blade virtually lives in the RAS.
Cleanup with a shoulder plane and a router plane makes cutting tenons a breeze.
Thank you for this video! I used some of your ideas for a bar table that wraps around the corner piece of a sectional table. Pocket holes for the leg assembly would have been much quicker and easier, but I didn't want to see the holes or screws. Downside, no table saw yet. Mortises all hand drilled with a forstner bit and the tenons.... with a miter saw! It worked great- thanks for the info!!
Man, you're videos are just fantastic !!! So well explained, so detailed, impossible not to understand them !!!
My mortise machine makes my mortise and tenon joints as flawlessly as advertised. My tenon cutting jig came from Norm Abrams. I broke down and finally got it 10 years ago. Now, this joint is far easier to me.
Everything about M&T joint, and more, and it just pupped up, thank you.
I am about to make my first M&T joint. I wondered about many details, which I planned to search for. Today, I was watching something else and this video came up at the end! Sometimes, I think, I am not that unlucky which I think I am!
Please do a video on the different saws. Things like radial arm saw, table saw, chop saw, and which are better for tasks. Also maybe touch on the different type of saw blades for mortises, metal, softwood/hardwood, etc. Maybe even some tricks to prevent splintering when sawing though a piece or how to perfectly calibrate an angle cut on a chop saw. Love the show, keep it up!
Bro. That horse galloping sound effect when you said "one trick pony" has got me on the FLOOR!!!!!! LOL
Keep in mind this video was made about three years before Mattias posted the plans for his Pantarouter. I'm pretty good at quite a few things, but predicting the future isn't one of them. :)
Honestly, I'm not a big fan of making elaborate tools out of wood. If it's going to hold a spinning bit, I prefer metal and plastic. But if Mattia wants to send me one I'd be happy to try it out. :)
Well done explaining i started making tenon by hand
Very well done.
You are a fantastic presenter and your thoroughness is well appreciated.
Anon
Hey, to each his own, but that's not the method I like to use. Yes, mating surface is important, but so is depth. And you have to take into account the thickness of the tenon board as well as the thickness of the adjoining piece. Once you get outside of a standard small frame piece, there are a lot more factors to consider besides the tenon itself. But I find my method gives me a good starting point.
Did I miss the part where you talked about the Fes-Cool option?
The tenon jig seems more fussy than just doing it with a dado set. I think I could finish a tenon by hand quicker than it took to setup the tenoning jig.
MCLS makes some nice decorative joint templates. I have the mini from Rockler and it is awesome on small boxes.
Just started following and watching your videos. You speak well and have great information, could be a TV show.
If I was going to cut some rails for shaker doors with a table saw and a nice tenoning jig… how would y’all do that? My thought is cut the shoulder shallow, then cut the cheeks to test fit. Once I get the cheek right go back to clean up the shoulder.
So well explained. Thanks.
Very instructive. Very informative. Very well done. Thank you for the tutorial. I have it saved to my playlist for later reference for when I am wood working
That tenon jig is great. I have a Craftex one (same jig just green) It's so fast and accurate. If you don't own one you should.
If you want to make square mortises and you don't have a mortising machine, you can rout the mortise , then use a mortising bit with drill bit removed, either with the drill press or a mallet to finish the ends.
Good idea
What happens if you dont have either a drill press or a router? These things cost money.
Chisel and mallet
Its come to my attention that pocket holes and screws have been around for longer then a craig jig.
I've also found more then one version of the jig, one even auto adjust to the size of wood and sets up the drill stop all you have to do is clamp it tighten the Allen screw on the drill bit coler and pick the correct color screw, its dummy proof.
Thanks for the excellent video. In using the tenoning jig on the table saw, have you ever had the waste piece bind and kick back? Also, have you considered installing two blades in the table saw, separated by a spacer? That would allow you to cut both tenon cheeks simultaneously and give you excellent, repeatable control of the tenon thickness.
Great video. What about angled tenons?
Really really good video!!
You can make a relatively square mortise with a Harry Watt square drill bit. Wiki: "in which a bit with a Reuleaux triangle cross section is allowed to "wobble" while it rotates within a square with rounded corners.."
Thank you....nicely explained in details...learned alot
Can you please do videos showing how to do this with limited tools. Say a table saw chisels a cordless drill, etc... It would be very nice if you did that in a lot of your videos since some of us are just beginners and don't have a dado blade. I do have a cheap router that looks nothing like yours.
Thank you. Now time to try some myself.
What about using joints made with a pantorouter?
As always, thanks’ for taking the time to make this video! And I support this site. ~M~
I made a bed using a Jessem Mortise Mill. I was able to turn the MM upside down in a table/jig and could just lay the pieces on their side and use it horizontally. Not safe with a router, but the mortise mill uses a special drill bit. Lots of heavy clamping and it worked like a charm with no glitches. These aren't made anymore, but I think there's a market for something like this. The domino does something similar but is more limited as to depth. My Domino is much easier, but strong joints on long and large pieces is a limitation. I don't know if the Domino XL can handle tenons that are that long.
Really great video! Super thorough, full of good craft, and entertaining, too.
Setting a mortice bit in the chisel. To small of a gap the wood jams up in the chisel. Just right gap little chips fly out the chisel slot.
I just purchased the Grizzly version of this jig. Wish me luck, (Grizzly's been good to me so far)
you think you can show us how to do a tenon with a ripsaw and chisel the old school way?since not everyone has powered tools,thanks
Hi Mark. I embrace all of your advice and I've got a question, if this video is still being monitored. Re: Colliding tenons within a slender table leg. Say, 3/4 inch thick apron and a 2 inch square leg. Should I think about shortening and maybe thinning the tenons? Will this significantly weaken the joint?
"It cuts like butter." Butter is horrible at cutting anything!
I like that one. I'm stealing it. It's mine now.
maybe you just suck at sharpening it
It will build up heat from friction and melt!
I thought he said “buddah”!
Well you obviously haven't used a butter-jet CNC machine! its really the latest and greatest in high pressure cutting, and can alternatively be used to inject steak or season popcorn.
Did I miss the "FestCool" option? The different options were like a "Domino" affect but no Festool demo. Great video!
we need more great videos of yours great information
How do bridle joints and half-lap joints compare with mortise and tenon joints?
love your videos marc,,im trying to get into morse and tendoning joinery but i saw the beadlock system at rockler and it really looks like it would be a good joint but there is alot of negative reviews on it,,the basic set is like 30.00 where as the pro is like a 150.00,,can you give me some advice on this system,,,the tendons is really expensive also,,for the amount you get
I have to say, I don't even have a workshop yet, but I spend WAY more time in my mind-Palace wood shop because it's an Escape from current events... When I have a real shop, I don't know if I'll ever come out, because I can have food and wood delivered right to my door.
You make truly great videos! I was glad that you were mentioning other types of joinery in the beginning of this video. I don't know much about it but was there a reason why you didn't mention dovetails? Are dovetails considered to be in the same realm of quality as mortis & tenon?
Dovetails are great joints. But they are for a different application. They are used when boards meet standing on edge vs when boards meet and are joined on the flat.
David Clay John pizzarelli.
six years has changed a lot! We were so young! 😅
Twelve years, the video was recorded in 2007
must ask , apart from large pieces, isn't just using a festool domino the safer , faster and easier way to go?
Yes.
loved the video I leaned lots buttttt how do I mortise a long board say for a door frame?
Rule of thumb for tenons is 1/3 the thickness of the material not 1/2. I guess it just depends on whose thumb you’re using as the standard.
I prefer 1/2" but the final decision about thickness actually depends more on the mortise piece thickness.
That’s why I said it depends on whose thumb. Thank you for all the great content Marc. Love your videos!
Good job, congrats.please, what's the name of the Band that performs on introducion.
"Spongebob pencil?"
[FURIOUSLY SMASHES SUBSCRIBE BUTTON]
Hi Marc, would you ( or have you already) provide music credits that accompany your videos? Thanks
Can a mortise bit just go in a drill press?
Thanks Captain Safety! :)
Ok, I've been woodworking for 15 years, and have used the routed mortises for 90% of my Mortise and Tenon joints--and I know, every pro I've seen says to either square the Mortise or round the tenon when you use this method. Call me lazy, but I've never done so--There's plenty of glue contact on the cheeks of the tenon that I don't worry about it. Is there some secret reason why we "should" do this step?
somw how u was asking my self why a dewalt when festool look so good, then I read it was a repost, im going to rewatch from episode 1, how long can it take me
Does a mill drill at maximum speed using aluminum end mills work for making mortises?
When you said it was going to be fescool I expected you to mention their domino machine I just used it at my uncle workshop is awesome but super pricey.
when you make the tenon, can i just cut out the cheeks on 2 sides and leave the tenon the full length of the board? or would this not be as strong? i am doing draw boring, thanks
You could and a lot of people do, depending on the application. I think it would be plenty strong for most applications.
Although older, informative.
FYI: in Danish.. Mortise = taphul - Tenon = sinketap
Great video. Just wanted to comment on the very 2007 shirt
you should check out the mortising tool made by shop built on you tube it is a nice little mortise making tool and with his design you can make mortises on the end of long boards easy
Very good presented
Thanks for the demonstration. You will find that dados are prohibited in EU
Very informative video. I'm more of a pockethole guy myself though.
So if I get myself a mortiser, I too can achieve glorious biceps?
From where did you acquire the tenon jig?
good demo, good tips
Mark
One option you didn't bring up, I was watching Stumpy Nubs channel and he was looking at a dresser that could have very well been made by shakers most of the joints were dovetails if you think about a dovetail it locks 2 parts togather
Tightly you might not even need glue to hold them togather you could use wedges or dowls that show and the dovetail will never move.
IMO that's the strongest joint.
Let's say your making a table, the legs and stretchers fasten togather with dovetails and the top is held on with movable figure 8s and the wood can move with seasons that might very well outlast even our modern glues.
Becuse a joint can only be as good as the glue that holds it togather, we don't know if some outside influences will turn our modern glues into mush.
How can you study the long term of glues with out the time passage to evaluate them? You cant.
We know what animal hyde glues do becuse time has showen us.
Who knows tight bond II could be mush in 150 years. We just don't know.
But a dovetail will always be its shape.
If you look at old Japanese building they didn't use metal to hold things togather
It was joinery that lasted 2k years or more with no glue or fasteners. Just friction fit that works with woods properties.
Now all this comes to one point, how long you need somthing to last, how well its made, how much time you spend to make it and last but not least there always more then one way to skin a goat. Or is that goose or a bever or deer?
Its funny looking at all the different parts of the world and the many different ways people made things and how they have lasted.
Huge fan.... would love to meet you sometime. Your in Arizona right? I think that is what my college buddy Matt Vanderlist told me. Quick question. You advocated 3/8" Tenon for 3/4 stock. I fought my equipment and could not pull it off. My Mortise jig would not go any closer than 1/8" from my table saw blade. Got to thinking about it and it seems like being 1/16" from the table saw blade is VERY tight perhaps dangerously so. Some other pages advocate using a tenon that is a third the width of the stock. Thus using a 1/4" tenon bit seems like it might be right. I believe my Mortise Jig will work for that. Am I thinking clearly???
why are people attaching wood to both side of the table saw fence?
This was a great review and hilarious too! "I'm readyyy!"
Ok, what's up with the Elvis side burns? :)
Great video, showed it to my woodworking class today. They had some questions. Where can I buy that shirt? Do I have to use a Sponge Bob pencil? What is the work out plan for bulging biceps?
Wow that was a long time ago, so it might be tricky to track down the shirt at this point. As for the Spongebob question, it should be obvious that you can't possibly do good work without one. As for the workout program, I generally just lift Spongebob pencils. Secret to my success!
I loved it, but they are a tough crowd. Thank you for all you do. Your videos are inspirational not only for woodworking but also as a teacher.
great tip- cone shipped diamond hone! Thanks
Outstanding. Thanks.
Thank you. I liked it.
nice refresher. thanks
Good info.
Its too bad that the festtool domino is so expensive... I really like to have one of those.
Darn, you are sure young in this video.
Hi Mark, how about cutting out the music while you’re talking-it’s distracting....🙂
Watch more and you’ll find we did
The lip is known as the shoulder?
Marc, you use to have a lot of Festool products. Are they all gone?
+Kevin Coogan nope. Still have plenty of Festool in the shop.
I have some not as many as I have seen on your videos. They are expensive and a few are unique like the Carvex and Domino. But the concept of vacuum integration is what sold me plus the support from Festool.
"Most of you probably own a router"
I feel attacked....
And the number 2 reason I love woodworking is because the information never goes out of date. Try that with crypto and stocks.
ACE VIDEO. Thanks.
please dont use that blackline whirlygig graphic to show a passage of time. I thought your hoodie string was caught in the blade while using the tenon jig.
where can i get the jig for only 60.00?
U might get a toy one for that price on ebay
Matthias Wandel·s Pantorouter and 1 minute! And all right!
Hi love your vids, just one thing though, On your original vid in this series you showed the domino system on this new higher quality edit no Domino ?
Stop screwing with my head, man. It was like Internet Time Traveling.
using router for hardwood like ironwood is not possible even with the most powerful makita plunge router. I still prefer drill press.
@03:50 bingo, that's what I'm here for. Thank you.