I got a Yanagisawa mouthpiece with a 7 facing. It's silver plated with a square cut chamber so it can blast at any range easily. I also went with the largest possible maestro airtights silver plated, and I think it really balanced the horn well to just add as much silver as possible to the build. The keywork is an acquired taste but the rigidity starts to fit like a glove and the very clunky ergonomics suddenly become light and tight. I'd say more of an "at home" feeling than most alto ergonomics. Thanks for the mouthpiece recommendations!
Thank you very much! I had to review the video myself to see what I said about this horn all these years ago. I still play it, but I've been on a modern sax trip over the past 8 years or so. Namely, it was a requirement for me to pick up any horn and to know exactly where the ergonomics were. These days? I'm having fun with the character of these older saxes.
I have a NWS2 alto and recently had my tech re-enable the forked Eb mech. It nicely corrected intonation on the F, which wanted to be a little flat without the extra venting.
I believe it, and feel as if the mechanism should be left functioning. The horn was designed with that key in mind, and mine has been functioning for over a decade. It doesn't seem to wear any faster than any other mechanism on the horn.
Subject: LOOSE NECK ,TENON , Hey hello Jake, I realise this video is from a while back but any way I have worked out a quick fix diy ( do it yourself ) . I have a 1923 New Wonder serie 1 it also had a very loose neck. I found in my tools a 17mm socket wich fit tightly inside the neck ( see the neck end part is not perfectly round due to mis use forcing in and out ) , I carefully work and force the socket inside the neck tube untill I manage to fit it inside the tube then carefully tap it in with wood stock then tap it out by knocking around the socket to get it out then try again going further and further in and out as I want it to go then try to fit the neck inside the sax body , I use sewing machine oil to lubricate both pieces, that really helps. It worked out great for me. to give you an idea mine was so loose the sax refused to play when I bought it, all the mechanic was either stuck or stiff out of alignment. Ho forgot to mention I have done the same procedure to fix the micro tuner leaking, using a smaller socket and it works too.
Sorry, just caught this. I wish that there was a DIY repair. I mean, there are several. None of them are good unless you genuinely understand metal work. Let a tech do that job. It's usually a quick and cheap job too.
Hi there, this is the horn that I have. I assume that it would be pre 1923. At this stage I believe that it could do with a major overhaul but was wondering if it would be worth it or go for a good 2nd hand 5:57 Selmer Mk 6. I’m using a Britone “V” chamber mouthpiece with Vandoren Java Green reeds and it produces a fairly bright sound. Your advice / comments would be welcome PATD DEC 8 1914 119954 A M189630 H
Sorry, I don't get notifications for this channel. Otherwise, I would have answered sooner. In short, any second-hand horn you're going to purchase is going to need some work done. That good deal of a horn may need a new overhaul itself in a few months or years. If you like your Conn, I'd suggest getting the overhaul. Get to know your local shop and tech and how they operate. Now, when you're looking to add to your collection, you can take that horn to your tech in order to get some honest advice and repairs.
Great post thanks I have the alto tranny 249/// glod plate no micro tuner I love it still has the old pinky table but bell keys same side and the keywork is more 6m underslung crook and stuff thanks again for the post even if it was 2013 these things live forever peace :-)
Jake Werkmeister thanks I will have a look the horn I have was my grandfathers he played it everyday and now I have it fixed up and playing away amazing after all them years hard to believe ty
I have the bizarre Eb tone hole too, but mine came to me with it reverse sprung. I don't see any key attached to it. Where would that key be located? Perhaps they just sawed it off? They did repad it lol.
Chris Nowak The tech probably removed the key. It should be right on top of the tonehole. I've never had issues with keeping it active. Not quite sure why techs deactivate them. It's no more or less troublesome to work on than other areas of the lower stack.
I just bought one, a pristine 1924 in silver plate. I'm trying the Vandoren V16 mouthpieces, on trial from their studio in LA. Ever try one of them? Oddly, the smaller chamber ones seems to work better than their medium chamber ones (the V16 is not offered in large chamber...). The Yamaha 4C? What else, if anything, in rubber, have you found that works well with this horn? I don't play metal mpc. Thanks!
@@JakeWerkmeister I Played a Ron Cohelo (RPC) on a Mark VI at a store a while back that was great. Maybe such a thing would work on this horn as well. I might as well pick up the Yamaha since they are so inexpensive. I agree with your assessment about the way air moves through this instrument. I didn't know any of that when I tried it out in the store. I play tested a number in student horns, etc., but this axe has a silky, sensuous tone that's hard to beat. And, I own a 1957 Mark VI alto... Main axe is 1973 Mark VI tenor, bought new. Maybe a NW1 for a back up tenor.... The tech at the store gave it the "once over," but the upper stack is a little sharp. It still has the original, 95 year old pads. Closet queen! Do you think a large chamber mpc is the ticket for intonation? I just bought a Conn 12M bari, and that appears to be the case there.... Thanks for your insight! - Jeff
@@JeffreySaxophoneTallNewton I would think that one of Ron's pieces would work. I use one of his older black labels on tenor, so I'm pretty familiar with his design philosophy. Regarding alto, a lot of the issues are related to the position of the mircotuner. The piece should be pushed all the way to the tuner. You then adjust the microtuner until you're in tune. So if you're having issues with tuning on one of the altos, I would start there. A Yamaha 4C is a mid-chambered piece, so I'm thinking that the old Conns would work with anything but a pea shooter. Unfortunately, I don't jive well with those pieces, so any issues that I experience on one may solely be a problem with me and the mouthpiece. Though it's generally stated that horns of this era do not work well with small chambered pieces.
@@JakeWerkmeister Ah... the tech at the selling store installed a new neck cork, and I had a Couf mpc (which works pretty well) with about 1/4" of neck cork showing. The Microtuner seems to work well, but it's new to me. I figured it was for really fine adjustment only. I'll see if I can shove the mpc up to it as you suggested; I could shave the cork a bit if needed. I'd think that would make everything sharp, though. My tech back East will give the horn a fuller inspection. I can play along with recordings OK as is, though, so it's not really "off" ... the bari, OTTH, is sharp city. I'll probably get the Morgan GM with the long shank for that beast.
Do you think a large TIP mpc would work well on the NW1? I play a .135 (11???) on tenor (Francois Louis). My NW1 might be nickel after all. I'm not sure how to tell silver from nickel!
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
I got a Yanagisawa mouthpiece with a 7 facing. It's silver plated with a square cut chamber so it can blast at any range easily. I also went with the largest possible maestro airtights silver plated, and I think it really balanced the horn well to just add as much silver as possible to the build. The keywork is an acquired taste but the rigidity starts to fit like a glove and the very clunky ergonomics suddenly become light and tight. I'd say more of an "at home" feeling than most alto ergonomics. Thanks for the mouthpiece recommendations!
An excellent review.. thank you for sharing 🎉
Thank you very much! I had to review the video myself to see what I said about this horn all these years ago. I still play it, but I've been on a modern sax trip over the past 8 years or so. Namely, it was a requirement for me to pick up any horn and to know exactly where the ergonomics were. These days? I'm having fun with the character of these older saxes.
I have a NWS2 alto and recently had my tech re-enable the forked Eb mech. It nicely corrected intonation on the F, which wanted to be a little flat without the extra venting.
I believe it, and feel as if the mechanism should be left functioning. The horn was designed with that key in mind, and mine has been functioning for over a decade. It doesn't seem to wear any faster than any other mechanism on the horn.
Subject: LOOSE NECK ,TENON , Hey hello Jake, I realise this video is from a while back but any way I have worked out a quick fix diy ( do it yourself ) . I have a 1923 New Wonder serie 1 it also had a very loose neck. I found in my tools a 17mm socket wich fit tightly inside the neck ( see the neck end part is not perfectly round due to mis use forcing in and out ) , I carefully work and force the socket inside the neck tube untill I manage to fit it inside the tube then carefully tap it in with wood stock then tap it out by knocking around the socket to get it out then try again going further and further in and out as I want it to go then try to fit the neck inside the sax body , I use sewing machine oil to lubricate both pieces, that really helps. It worked out great for me. to give you an idea mine was so loose the sax refused to play when I bought it, all the mechanic was either stuck or stiff out of alignment. Ho forgot to mention I have done the same procedure to fix the micro tuner leaking, using a smaller socket and it works too.
Sorry, just caught this. I wish that there was a DIY repair. I mean, there are several. None of them are good unless you genuinely understand metal work. Let a tech do that job. It's usually a quick and cheap job too.
Hi there, this is the horn that I have. I assume that it would be pre 1923.
At this stage I believe that it could do with a major overhaul but was wondering if it would be worth it or go for a good 2nd hand 5:57 Selmer Mk 6.
I’m using a Britone “V” chamber mouthpiece with Vandoren Java Green reeds and it produces a fairly bright sound.
Your advice / comments would be welcome
PATD DEC 8 1914
119954
A
M189630
H
Sorry, I don't get notifications for this channel. Otherwise, I would have answered sooner. In short, any second-hand horn you're going to purchase is going to need some work done. That good deal of a horn may need a new overhaul itself in a few months or years. If you like your Conn, I'd suggest getting the overhaul. Get to know your local shop and tech and how they operate. Now, when you're looking to add to your collection, you can take that horn to your tech in order to get some honest advice and repairs.
I have the C-melody, SN# 103715. Mine is also nickel plated, in very good shape.
I have one made in 1928 c melody also.... beautiful
Great post thanks I have the alto tranny 249/// glod plate no micro tuner I love it still has the old pinky table
but bell keys same side and the keywork is more 6m underslung crook and stuff thanks again for the post even if it was 2013
these things live forever peace :-)
siningwow Matthew Stohrer has a great breakdown of transitional horns on his site. Well worth checking out.
Jake Werkmeister
thanks I will have a look the horn I have was my grandfathers he played it everyday
and now I have it fixed up and playing away amazing after all them years hard to believe ty
Compared to 6m or 26m, how about the sound or finger ringing?
I have the bizarre Eb tone hole too, but mine came to me with it reverse sprung. I don't see any key attached to it. Where would that key be located? Perhaps they just sawed it off? They did repad it lol.
Chris Nowak The tech probably removed the key. It should be right on top of the tonehole. I've never had issues with keeping it active. Not quite sure why techs deactivate them. It's no more or less troublesome to work on than other areas of the lower stack.
It's attached to the right hand's middle finger. To use it press all 3 keys, then lift your middle finger: it should lift
I just bought one, a pristine 1924 in silver plate. I'm trying the Vandoren V16 mouthpieces, on trial from their studio in LA. Ever try one of them? Oddly, the smaller chamber ones seems to work better than their medium chamber ones (the V16 is not offered in large chamber...). The Yamaha 4C? What else, if anything, in rubber, have you found that works well with this horn? I don't play metal mpc. Thanks!
I've been stuck on a Phil Barone NY 7* for the past few years. Great hard rubber piece, and it works with this horn very well.
@@JakeWerkmeister I Played a Ron Cohelo (RPC) on a Mark VI at a store a while back that was great. Maybe such a thing would work on this horn as well. I might as well pick up the Yamaha since they are so inexpensive. I agree with your assessment about the way air moves through this instrument. I didn't know any of that when I tried it out in the store. I play tested a number in student horns, etc., but this axe has a silky, sensuous tone that's hard to beat. And, I own a 1957 Mark VI alto... Main axe is 1973 Mark VI tenor, bought new. Maybe a NW1 for a back up tenor.... The tech at the store gave it the "once over," but the upper stack is a little sharp. It still has the original, 95 year old pads. Closet queen! Do you think a large chamber mpc is the ticket for intonation? I just bought a Conn 12M bari, and that appears to be the case there.... Thanks for your insight! - Jeff
@@JeffreySaxophoneTallNewton I would think that one of Ron's pieces would work. I use one of his older black labels on tenor, so I'm pretty familiar with his design philosophy. Regarding alto, a lot of the issues are related to the position of the mircotuner. The piece should be pushed all the way to the tuner. You then adjust the microtuner until you're in tune. So if you're having issues with tuning on one of the altos, I would start there. A Yamaha 4C is a mid-chambered piece, so I'm thinking that the old Conns would work with anything but a pea shooter. Unfortunately, I don't jive well with those pieces, so any issues that I experience on one may solely be a problem with me and the mouthpiece. Though it's generally stated that horns of this era do not work well with small chambered pieces.
@@JakeWerkmeister Ah... the tech at the selling store installed a new neck cork, and I had a Couf mpc (which works pretty well) with about 1/4" of neck cork showing. The Microtuner seems to work well, but it's new to me. I figured it was for really fine adjustment only. I'll see if I can shove the mpc up to it as you suggested; I could shave the cork a bit if needed. I'd think that would make everything sharp, though. My tech back East will give the horn a fuller inspection. I can play along with recordings OK as is, though, so it's not really "off" ... the bari, OTTH, is sharp city. I'll probably get the Morgan GM with the long shank for that beast.
Do you think a large TIP mpc would work well on the NW1? I play a .135 (11???) on tenor (Francois Louis). My NW1 might be nickel after all. I'm not sure how to tell silver from nickel!
Why the music in the background?
You don't like Coltrane?
How much this One ?
xuan hoang Nguyen you can find them ranging from $150 to around $700 for exceptional examples. I bought mine for $458 in 2002.
Jake Werkmeister thanks
Jake Werkmeister how do you feel the sound ?
xuan hoang Nguyen There's another video on my channel where I compare a YAS-21 to this horn. The Conn has a great tone, in my opinion.