Nices Video! Ich nehme an das ganze geht auch mit der 380 CR? Da wo die Kamera ausging habe ich nicht ganz verstanden wie das mit dem Öl ist, muss man oben und unten Öl rein machen?
Hey, im going to do firt service in my new 380 espresso :) But i'm not going to do full service, only lowers, spring side is ok, becouse i need just replace 80ml of oil, but is the damper side in opened bath? If it's, that mean that i HAVE TO full service damper side, and i cant just replace oil in lowers? Ps. I bought 2016 version of espresso, and i'm worried about stanchions... how are feeling your's 380 espresso stanchions at the moment?
The damper side is a semi-open system. The cartridge bleeds itself by sucking in oil through a valve at the bottom and spill out any excess oil through some small holes back into the stanchion when compressing. So especially for the first service, after the components run it on each other, there are metal and plastic particles inside the cartridge, which you won't remove by servicing only the lowers, so I'd heavily recommend a full service on the damper side. I got the 2015 version, had some wear on one stanchion shortly after purchase, which was replaced then. Now after 4 1/2 seasons you can see small signs of wear in the beginning stroke part of the stanchion, but it's still sealing and working perfectly. The worst thing that could happen to your stanchions wearing-wise is, that you miss service after plenty of riding in muddy or dusty conditions, as well riding with worn seals, as the particles stuck underneath the seal will soon wear the stanchion.
@@ChaosBiker Thank you!! 💓💓💓 I feel like lose of sensivity now... i need to do service :) How much have u cutted elastomer? Couse i'm using 150-160mm travel on 6,5k spring, my weight is 95kg.
@@maciejjaworski1275 If you feel comfortable with your SAG, then you should check the maximum travel of your fork (mine for example is 194mm till it bottoms out). Just remove spring side top cap and bottom out to measure it. Now you have the amount of travel you aren't currently using, I'd recommend cutting the elastomer at half this length and check again how much travel you can use while riding. When in need, repeat the cutting process till you bottom out reasonably hard when encountering really hard hits like overshooting big jumps or extreme compressions under braking.
Hey, wirklich cooles video. Ich habe gelesen das von Marzocchi ein Öl mit einem Wert von 26,1 cSt benutzt werden soll. Dein 7,5er hat einen Wert von 34,7cSt. Hast du dies extra benutzt damit etwas mehr Dämpfung realisiert werden kann ? Beste Grüße
Die Jungs bei Cosmic benutzten das laut Telefongespräch. Man kann natürlich auch das 5W 1:1 mit dem 7,5W mischen, dann kommst eher in die Richtung des originalen Öls. Wobei die Liste, wo das draufsteht, auch schon wesentlich älter ist, als die Gabel... Mir kommt es auf jeden Fall entgegen, gerade die LSC war sonst etwas unterdämpft und hab bisher nicht die Muße gehabt am Shimstack zu pfuschen.
Sehr gutes viedeo, Könnzen sie mir bittttttte helfen? Bei mir kommt das Standrohr nicht komplett raus, was kann ich dagegen tun ? Ich würde mich sehr über ihre hilfe freuen 🙃
Thanks great video! I want to do a lower leg service before a race this weekend but I don't have 7.5wt oil. Would Fox 5wt teflon or 20wt gold be ok to use?
The wt value isn't representative for the dynamic viscosity, you need to compare CSt values at same temperatures. A 5wt oil from company X could be heavier than 10wt from company Y. In the end you could use both oils, but I think that the Fox 5wt will provide too little and the 20wt far too much damping, so you can try to mix them till you're satisfied.
@@ChaosBiker Thanks a lot for your help. Follow up question. Following lower leg service the LSR pin has slipped inside the HSR nut meaning I cannot reattach the adjuster. Have you ever had this issue?
Hi. 1. Thx 4 the clips. realy helpfull. Is it a must be to use SAe7.5? If no wich WT would u recomend 4 both sides? When i put of the crowns, and damp only my coilside it feels very hard and bumbs extremly hard back, it is so strong that i dont think that the damper side have an influence on the coil side. Any idea what could be wrong (380cr2c titanium 2014)
Hey, you can alter the viscosity of your oil to your needs, WT/SAE isn't really a good indicator as the real viscosity widely vary between manufacturers. The former german distributor used Motorex 7.5W and I based my setup on it, so I'd recommend it. On the spring side the main purpose of the oil is for lubrication, on damper side it's mainly for damping purposes, but covers lubrication as well. So for the spring side you could use oil of higher viscosity, but as long as it's a good oil you won't feel a difference I'd say. Just get the right one for your damper side and use it for spring side as well. What you mention is exactly what the fork's supposed to do. One stanchion has the spring in it, of which the outward force is travel-dependent, in the other one there's the speed-dependent dampening cartridge. For example try to turn your compression adjusters all the way in, you'll notice that, if you push the stanchion in at a sufficient speed, there'll be a lot more resistance, vice versa for rebound damping. For further details I heavily recommend Tuesday Tune on Pinkbike!
Hi, I have this exact same fork, bought used a couple of days ago, and i was checking if it was working correctly but i think there is a problem: the High Speed Compression rotates to infinite in both directions, infinite clicks, is normal?
Probably the shimstack unscrewed itself from the compression unit. Take the cartridge apart and rebuild the compression unit. Try to recover the shims in the correct order. If they are all over the place, then it'd be best to call Fox on what's the stock configuration or asking on a forum like pinkbike or mtbr. You won't break the fork putting them in in a wrong configuration, only the handling of the fork will be rather bad.
When tightening the compression unit. You loosen the bottom nut and what? I can pull tube stanchion up allowing me to tighten the compression unit back into the housing? Then push the stanchion down and tighten the bottom nut?
After you tightened the compression unit, you need to take the bottom nut off again to get the right amount of oil inside the lowers. After that you can tighten the bottom nut and you're done on the downside.
Danke für das Video 👍 Ich bin etwas verwundert wegen dem "Foam Ring". In meiner Bj 2014er konnte ich keinen finden, in der Explosionszeichnung von Marzocchi ist auch keiner zu sehen. Hast du den nachgerüstet oder war der von Werk aus bei dir verbaut? Gruß Manu ✌️
Hi, is the rebound off, like too fast or is the adjuster not working? Anyway I'd start with opening the cartridge again and carefully bleeding it by slowly cycling the piston rod. If this doesn't help I'd suggest to do a full rebuild of the cartridge to check if there's something wrong with the rebound assembly. If none of this works, then I can only suggest to give your fork to a professional. Hope I could help, cheers!
To my knowledge, there's no full service kit available. You can order the stanchion seals and wipers, apart from this you'd have to measure the seals and order them seperately. Cheers
I don't have one over here, but it should be possible to pull it off. There's a thread on PB forum regarding this: www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=167509
Basically till it's completely full. There's nothing as too much, as excess oil will spill through blowoff holes on top of the cartridge into the stanchion, while there's an one-way valve at the bottom of the cartridge, which sucks oil inside if needed.
Great video, perfect timing as my forks are due a service!
Thank you! been waiting for this since you announced it a while back!
Waiting for it since a while ! Thanks
Nices Video! Ich nehme an das ganze geht auch mit der 380 CR? Da wo die Kamera ausging habe ich nicht ganz verstanden wie das mit dem Öl ist, muss man oben und unten Öl rein machen?
what size is the compression damper nut so i can buy a ring key spanner ?
Beutiful video .... A question, but how many niwton/meters should the nuts under the sheaths be closed?
Here you find some of the torques:
marzocchiworkshop.blogspot.com/2015/04/understanding-380-c2r2.html
buen día amigo, según el vídeo la cantidad de aceite que usaste fue 60ml o 80ml? no se ve muy bien el numero en el recipiente, gracias
Estoy en la misma ... Dice que se tiene que purgar también
@@TheJothace ya realice el mantenimiento y le puse 80 ml, por el momento esta trabajando bien. aun la tengo haciendo pruebas
Quede cachuo de como se purga el cartucho
ich habe den service auch gemacht, und habe das Problem, das die Seite nicht mehr komplett hera
us kommt was kann ich dagegen tun?
Hey, im going to do firt service in my new 380 espresso :)
But i'm not going to do full service, only lowers, spring side is ok, becouse i need just replace 80ml of oil, but is the damper side in opened bath? If it's, that mean that i HAVE TO full service damper side, and i cant just replace oil in lowers?
Ps. I bought 2016 version of espresso, and i'm worried about stanchions... how are feeling your's 380 espresso stanchions at the moment?
The damper side is a semi-open system. The cartridge bleeds itself by sucking in oil through a valve at the bottom and spill out any excess oil through some small holes back into the stanchion when compressing. So especially for the first service, after the components run it on each other, there are metal and plastic particles inside the cartridge, which you won't remove by servicing only the lowers, so I'd heavily recommend a full service on the damper side.
I got the 2015 version, had some wear on one stanchion shortly after purchase, which was replaced then. Now after 4 1/2 seasons you can see small signs of wear in the beginning stroke part of the stanchion, but it's still sealing and working perfectly. The worst thing that could happen to your stanchions wearing-wise is, that you miss service after plenty of riding in muddy or dusty conditions, as well riding with worn seals, as the particles stuck underneath the seal will soon wear the stanchion.
@@ChaosBiker Thank you!! 💓💓💓
I feel like lose of sensivity now... i need to do service :)
How much have u cutted elastomer? Couse i'm using 150-160mm travel on 6,5k spring, my weight is 95kg.
@@maciejjaworski1275 If you feel comfortable with your SAG, then you should check the maximum travel of your fork (mine for example is 194mm till it bottoms out). Just remove spring side top cap and bottom out to measure it. Now you have the amount of travel you aren't currently using, I'd recommend cutting the elastomer at half this length and check again how much travel you can use while riding. When in need, repeat the cutting process till you bottom out reasonably hard when encountering really hard hits like overshooting big jumps or extreme compressions under braking.
@@ChaosBiker Thank u so much! :)
I will do it.
i had done the service by own, and this side dont come out to 100% do you have an idea wy?
Hey what to do if my forks yellow and silver buttons doesnt do anythink? But rebound works
Hey, wirklich cooles video. Ich habe gelesen das von Marzocchi ein Öl mit einem Wert von 26,1 cSt benutzt werden soll. Dein 7,5er hat einen Wert von 34,7cSt. Hast du dies extra benutzt damit etwas mehr Dämpfung realisiert werden kann ?
Beste Grüße
Die Jungs bei Cosmic benutzten das laut Telefongespräch. Man kann natürlich auch das 5W 1:1 mit dem 7,5W mischen, dann kommst eher in die Richtung des originalen Öls. Wobei die Liste, wo das draufsteht, auch schon wesentlich älter ist, als die Gabel... Mir kommt es auf jeden Fall entgegen, gerade die LSC war sonst etwas unterdämpft und hab bisher nicht die Muße gehabt am Shimstack zu pfuschen.
Sehr gutes viedeo,
Könnzen sie mir bittttttte helfen?
Bei mir kommt das Standrohr nicht komplett raus, was kann ich dagegen tun ?
Ich würde mich sehr über ihre hilfe freuen 🙃
Thanks great video! I want to do a lower leg service before a race this weekend but I don't have 7.5wt oil. Would Fox 5wt teflon or 20wt gold be ok to use?
The wt value isn't representative for the dynamic viscosity, you need to compare CSt values at same temperatures. A 5wt oil from company X could be heavier than 10wt from company Y. In the end you could use both oils, but I think that the Fox 5wt will provide too little and the 20wt far too much damping, so you can try to mix them till you're satisfied.
@@ChaosBiker Thanks a lot for your help. Follow up question. Following lower leg service the LSR pin has slipped inside the HSR nut meaning I cannot reattach the adjuster. Have you ever had this issue?
hello it is normel that this side is not so strong ?
Ile oleju i gdzie się leję można jakas informacje ?
ist es normal das die seite nicht so stark ist ?
Hi. 1. Thx 4 the clips. realy helpfull. Is it a must be to use SAe7.5? If no wich WT would u recomend 4 both sides? When i put of the crowns, and damp only my coilside it feels very hard and bumbs extremly hard back, it is so strong that i dont think that the damper side have an influence on the coil side. Any idea what could be wrong (380cr2c titanium 2014)
Hey, you can alter the viscosity of your oil to your needs, WT/SAE isn't really a good indicator as the real viscosity widely vary between manufacturers. The former german distributor used Motorex 7.5W and I based my setup on it, so I'd recommend it. On the spring side the main purpose of the oil is for lubrication, on damper side it's mainly for damping purposes, but covers lubrication as well. So for the spring side you could use oil of higher viscosity, but as long as it's a good oil you won't feel a difference I'd say. Just get the right one for your damper side and use it for spring side as well.
What you mention is exactly what the fork's supposed to do. One stanchion has the spring in it, of which the outward force is travel-dependent, in the other one there's the speed-dependent dampening cartridge. For example try to turn your compression adjusters all the way in, you'll notice that, if you push the stanchion in at a sufficient speed, there'll be a lot more resistance, vice versa for rebound damping. For further details I heavily recommend Tuesday Tune on Pinkbike!
Hi, I have this exact same fork, bought used a couple of days ago, and i was checking if it was working correctly but i think there is a problem: the High Speed Compression rotates to infinite in both directions, infinite clicks, is normal?
Probably the shimstack unscrewed itself from the compression unit. Take the cartridge apart and rebuild the compression unit. Try to recover the shims in the correct order. If they are all over the place, then it'd be best to call Fox on what's the stock configuration or asking on a forum like pinkbike or mtbr. You won't break the fork putting them in in a wrong configuration, only the handling of the fork will be rather bad.
@@ChaosBiker really thanks, i will try as soon as possible
When tightening the compression unit. You loosen the bottom nut and what? I can pull tube stanchion up allowing me to tighten the compression unit back into the housing? Then push the stanchion down and tighten the bottom nut?
After you tightened the compression unit, you need to take the bottom nut off again to get the right amount of oil inside the lowers. After that you can tighten the bottom nut and you're done on the downside.
Danke für das Video 👍
Ich bin etwas verwundert wegen dem "Foam Ring". In meiner Bj 2014er konnte ich keinen finden, in der Explosionszeichnung von Marzocchi ist auch keiner zu sehen. Hast du den nachgerüstet oder war der von Werk aus bei dir verbaut?
Gruß Manu ✌️
War ab Werk drin. Ist an sich schon sinnvoll, damit der Staubabstreifer nicht trocken läuft.
I have problem with rebound, now I change the oil and my rebound not work, little help please
Ha you found this.
@@thova1000 because I need help
Hi, is the rebound off, like too fast or is the adjuster not working? Anyway I'd start with opening the cartridge again and carefully bleeding it by slowly cycling the piston rod. If this doesn't help I'd suggest to do a full rebuild of the cartridge to check if there's something wrong with the rebound assembly. If none of this works, then I can only suggest to give your fork to a professional. Hope I could help, cheers!
@@ChaosBiker My compression doesn't work after service, do you have Facebook or instagram so I can send you more information and pictrure?
@@ChaosBiker I watched your video so I didn't see where the oil is poured, so I poured everything from above (130ml), is that a possible problem?
can you drop a link to a service kit for this fork?
To my knowledge, there's no full service kit available. You can order the stanchion seals and wipers, apart from this you'd have to measure the seals and order them seperately. Cheers
good vid bro
Very helpful
tem q mostar como fazer uma manutenção de casco se tem como abir só a parte de baixo dela sem mecher no cartucho ?
Sorry, but I don't speak Portuguese. I tried Google Translate, but still I don't get behind the meaning. Do you speak English?
Can you pleeeeeeeas make a Service by the marzocchi moto c2r .
I haven't dealt with it yet, but I got a new bike build around the corner, so maybe I can do a bit of tinkering on the Moto on the old bike then.
Bello.
In the 380 CR 2016 how to ectract the dial rebound?
I don't have one over here, but it should be possible to pull it off. There's a thread on PB forum regarding this: www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=167509
@@ChaosBiker thanks for your help.
how much oil to pour cartridge?
Basically till it's completely full. There's nothing as too much, as excess oil will spill through blowoff holes on top of the cartridge into the stanchion, while there's an one-way valve at the bottom of the cartridge, which sucks oil inside if needed.
You didn‘t show how to remove the rebound cartridge...
But Great Video :)
Disassembling it shouldn't make a noticeable difference to the service result, so unless there's something broken better keep it in place ;)
the whole damper cartridge is near enough identical to a showa mx fork. the service process almost the same the same but with give you a good idea.