With this video, I've put together multiple residential framing video clips, that I really didn't have a home for. #inspection #residential #building #framing
I started as a helper, and now a year later I am a superintendent for a custom home builder. I’ve watched your videos from day 1. Very informative. Please make more. Concise & simple. Thank you so much. Little things I’ve learned from your videos, did make all the difference.
Just wanted to say that as a municipal building inspector and licensed home inspector myself, I appreciate your videos! Keep up the great work bro. From North Alabama nothing but Blessings my friend.
In Northwest Mississippi, we require hurricane ties on roof trusses and also regular rafters on top plates. Right now, we only have 1 builder in this area who builds with engineered trusses. I am a municipal code inspector and I really enjoy your videos.
Does the same apply to a 4-ply drop girder made of standard lumber? Also, thanks for posting this valuable information. I am currently building my own home and I definitely benefit from your videos.
I am building my home and it has engineered scissor trusses. As a result, the house has a bunch of rake walls. My question is: How to properly attach rake walls to standard walls since you can't interlock the double top plate? The plan is to use CS16 strapping, but how much and what locations?
On exterior sheathing how important is it for the nails to be flush to the OSB? Is that something I should be paying a lot of attention to other than spacing of the nails?
So happy to see your video! Since you asked for commentary, here are a few comments based on what I see over in Austin and the surrounding area: Cantilevered LVL: Obviously one has to go by the mfg instructions, but interesting that they put a 4-ply bearing on a 3-ply. I would have expected to see that the other way around. Hurricane ties: Over here I see them toenail trusses about half the time or use ties on every other truss about 25%. Simpson makes a truss screw that I see used about the other quarter of the houses I do. Gable wall bracing: Never seen one beefed up like that. Heck, most of the time they are practically neglected with busted gussets or improper bearing onto the top plate. I noticed the horizontal sheathing seam isn't blocked. Would IRC R602.10.4.4 apply here? Windows at the stairs: Yuuuup they need to be tempered. R308.4 I believe. I would be surprised to see a window that big that wasn't safety glass, though. HVAC chase: Nailed it 100% as usual. Multiply LVL fasteners: I've seen different mfg instructions show different ways of doing it. I think it really depends on the mfg. Bolts/screws would definitely be best practice. Love you videos boss, they have taught me a ton!
No matter what you build or what the code is or how good you nail, bolt or screw. Mother Nature will turn it into toothpicks if she chooses. No code is above Mother Nature. But yes we are required to use hurricane ties here in MN as well. But its dumb that its just nailed mostly to a top plate that only usually has minimal nailing in it. We will use 6 to 10" long timberlock screws or such to screw through the top of the truss/energy heel into or right through the double top plate.
I started as a helper, and now a year later I am a superintendent for a custom home builder. I’ve watched your videos from day 1. Very informative. Please make more. Concise & simple. Thank you so much. Little things I’ve learned from your videos, did make all the difference.
I appreciate your feedback, and thanks for watching.
Just wanted to say that as a municipal building inspector and licensed home inspector myself, I appreciate your videos! Keep up the great work bro. From North Alabama nothing but Blessings my friend.
I appreciate you saying that...thanks for watching!!
In Northwest Mississippi, we require hurricane ties on roof trusses and also regular rafters on top plates. Right now, we only have 1 builder in this area who builds with engineered trusses. I am a municipal code inspector and I really enjoy your videos.
I appreciate your feedback, and thanks for watching.
In NC they allow the Simpson structural screw for securing the trusses to the top plate.
Ok, I appreciate your feedback.
In Southeast Missouri for trusses we use hurricane ties or timberloc screws.
We use those here in Georgia as well. I appreciate you watching!!
Suppose you have a set of engineered scissor trusses. They rest only on the exterior walls. What is the best way to brace the gables?
Probably nearest load-bearing wall.
Does the same apply to a 4-ply drop girder made of standard lumber? Also, thanks for posting this valuable information. I am currently building my own home and I definitely benefit from your videos.
I would think so, check with the manufacturer.
I am building my home and it has engineered scissor trusses. As a result, the house has a bunch of rake walls. My question is: How to properly attach rake walls to standard walls since you can't interlock the double top plate? The plan is to use CS16 strapping, but how much and what locations?
What code books are you using?
On exterior sheathing how important is it for the nails to be flush to the OSB? Is that something I should be paying a lot of attention to other than spacing of the nails?
So, it's very important that the fasteners are flush to the sheathing. Are you familiar with "overdriven nails"? ...Google it.
Good video as always….ln what order do you suggest plumbing, HVAC, and electrical after framing?
So, I would do all of the MEP's (mechanical, electrical, plumbing) before framing.
The reasoning behind that is that the MEP contractors tend to gut up the framing pretty good. So you want the framing inspection to go last.
So happy to see your video! Since you asked for commentary, here are a few comments based on what I see over in Austin and the surrounding area:
Cantilevered LVL: Obviously one has to go by the mfg instructions, but interesting that they put a 4-ply bearing on a 3-ply. I would have expected to see that the other way around.
Hurricane ties: Over here I see them toenail trusses about half the time or use ties on every other truss about 25%. Simpson makes a truss screw that I see used about the other quarter of the houses I do.
Gable wall bracing: Never seen one beefed up like that. Heck, most of the time they are practically neglected with busted gussets or improper bearing onto the top plate. I noticed the horizontal sheathing seam isn't blocked. Would IRC R602.10.4.4 apply here?
Windows at the stairs: Yuuuup they need to be tempered. R308.4 I believe. I would be surprised to see a window that big that wasn't safety glass, though.
HVAC chase: Nailed it 100% as usual.
Multiply LVL fasteners: I've seen different mfg instructions show different ways of doing it. I think it really depends on the mfg. Bolts/screws would definitely be best practice.
Love you videos boss, they have taught me a ton!
I appreciate your feedback... keep doing what you're doing in Texas.
I would think the windows next to the stairs have to be tempered.
So, if the staircase is within 3' with no guardrail, then the window must be tempered.
No matter what you build or what the code is or how good you nail, bolt or screw. Mother Nature will turn it into toothpicks if she chooses. No code is above Mother Nature. But yes we are required to use hurricane ties here in MN as well. But its dumb that its just nailed mostly to a top plate that only usually has minimal nailing in it. We will use 6 to 10" long timberlock screws or such to screw through the top of the truss/energy heel into or right through the double top plate.
I agree with some of your comments. I appreciate you watching!!