When it starts squealing. I pull the pulley. Pop off the back and repack it with Lucas red grease. Works like a charm I do this with tension pulley and main pulley. FYI
Your video really helped me. especially the chart. I had a power steering pulley that I had not installed all the way on. Only an 1/8 of an inch and it was squealing upon reassembly. Pressed on an additional 1/8 inch, squeak gone. again Thanks.
Great video Dave and you knocked those issues right out! That was a good catch in seeing that that bearing was not running true. Also good tips sprinkled throughout the video. Keep up the good work and don't work too hard! 😀👍
Yeah, sometimes it's better to replace the pulley than to fiddle with trying to bend the two axes onto the same line. Thanks again for watching my videos, Terry.
I have seen several RUclips videos on this topic. Yours is the best I have seen. The explanation of the three sources of belt problem at the outset is superb, but there is a bit missing. One belt problem is said to be a misalignment somewhere, which makes sense. However, I have yet to see any explanation of how to correct a misalignment if that is indeed the problem. Keep up the great videos. It is so kind of you to share your considerable expertise with others. Thank you.
Yes, excellent point, alignment is often from mismatched parts or bent brackets. Sometimes you can get by with spacers if the misalignment is a parallel shift. I've seen a nifty tool that sits in the groove of a pulley, shooting a laser to help align secondary parts to the plane of the main pulley. We use a similar tool in astronomy to collimate a Newtonian reflector, and maybe I could modify it to sit in the groove of a pulley, ha ha. The pulley on my alternator is a little off, mostly because the bracket is inadequate and the alternator tilts away when we apply tension. Thanks for stopping by!
Good point, there are many options. In other situations where the female part is small I've seen some people put parts into an oven to expand the opening. As long as the parts aren't cooked, it works fine. These bearings slide in easily because the larger part is still small enough to position inside a press or over an anvil. When the bigger part can't come off the car, as with a differential or transfer case bearing, freezing works great and there's no risk of overheating. As you say, you don't have to hit it so hard to get it in. Of course for people who don't want to bother, the cost of the pulley in this case isn't much more than the bearing. NAPA was ready to sell me the idle arm pulley for $30 compared to $10 for the bearing alone. As always, thanks for adding your thoughts here -- your remarks make the comment section worth reading.
Smashing job, and you found a definite problem :-D. It's a pain when there is an intermittant fault. I've had so many electronic repairs where the fault vanishes the second you open the device up, it sends me madder than i allready am lol :-D. My mate has an old uk ford transit van, it squeels too, a tiny bit of water and it stops, but it does not do it all the time lol, annoying fault.
Alignment issues can be a problem because it's sometimes hard to get all the pulleys on the same plane, especially if the brackets don't allow for adjustment of angles. Thanks again for watching my videos, you always seem to add something thoughtful.
Isolating and testing the individual items certainly unearthed the evidence. Handy to be able to swap over the bearings and reinstall the new ones. Good tip on cleaning the belt groves. What's your opinion on belt dressing in a spray can ?
I have a can I bought ten years ago, I never use it. I'm still scratching my head to think of a reason I would want to use it, ha ha. Thanks for watching, Tom.
I can't remember which of those three of those 3 on that chevy where the whole thing is cheaper, or about the same price when all is said and done than just the bearing. I did all the pulleys on my '03 earlier this summer, I had all new ones, but the tensioners were still good just bad bearings. actually now that I think about it, I'm sure it was that AC tensioner. I did the idler bearing, it was cheaper that the whole idler, I broke the main belt tensioner pulley trying to press the bearing out, because apparently it doesn't come out, but the pulley w/ bearing was available separately, but when I went to get the bearing for the AC the price after tax was like 28 bucks and the whole tensioner was like 32 after tax. I guess $4 is not a lot but the alignment is a factor. I've done bearings before that when I put the pulley back on, it wobbled.
Yeah, prices vary and of course it's not easy to deal with wobble. In my case the new Ram tensioner was over $100, the idler pulley was $36 and the bearing was $10, all in Canadian dollars. I probably could have done better with pricing by getting them online, but extra shipping charges for Canadians can be huge and i didn't want to wait. These bearings pressed out really easily, and I think pressing them out with a hammer and a wooden drift would have worked, too. Thanks for watching, your remark will help others in a similar situation.
Great video, I get a screech sound on every fresh start up then it sort of squeaks for a bit, but after a few minutes it goes quiet, dose anyone have an idea what this is ?
Good point, in retrospect it wasn't worth the effort. On the other hand, it is always nice to have multiple options, for situations where parts are delayed, etc.
Henry, thank you so much. Your videos, though infrequent, are excellent- the best; no matter what the topic. Rot, nautical,auto, electrical, whatever. Your issues often match mine- my oven door, deck foundation rot and now my dodge hemi squeaking noise.Your scientific method is right on. What is the meaning of ' Document ' the problem ? from an electrical one ? Thanks again. Go Leafs.
I saw eric o's video about the screwdriver and bottle too HAHAHAH. I made mine out of a windshield wiper bottle and cut down the thread of the bottle in 4 directions and tape on a breaker bar.I was working a 2008 tahoe and this a/c compressor bearing was so shot... The pulley was moving back n fourth. the idler pulley and a/c tentioner were also bad.
The biggest advantage of his idea is the fact you don't have to lean over the moving belts, it's a lot safer. It does take some time and experience to understand normal, since even normal sounds are distorted and amplified. Most of the pulleys I've seen have had obvious problems when the belt is off, and often you can feel the uneven, scraping resistance of bad bearings. Maybe it's because I procrastinate so long, the findings are obvious. For those that aren't so bad, listening devices may help. Richard, thanks for watching! Dave
What's the best way to change out my rear drum brakes to disc brakes on my 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 should I change the whole rear axle or should I get a kit
Brakes on the Ram are not great but rear brakes don't contribute a whole lot, especially in a pickup where there isn't much weight in the back. Personally I wouldn't switch, but I can't say I know much about that topic. Good luck!
Two things can fail on a tensioner. If the spring won't hold tension, as in the example with the Dodge, you need a new one. On the other hand if it's just the bearing, you can press in a new bearing. That said, if you don't have the tools or time to fiddle with it, replacing the tensioner will fix both. And prices may be comparable so it may depend on how you value your time.
Those with no tensioner will use accessory parts like the alternator to put the correct tension on the belt. First I'd check that the tension is still correct by pressing on a length of belt to see how far it deflects. Even in a long stretch it shouldn't deflect more than a centimeter or so. If the belt has stretched over time, then your problem is improved by adjusting the position of an accessory. While the belt is off I would spin each pulley in turn to see if one is failing, you can often feel the coarse response of a bad bearing. Good luck!
![Kodak Black - Versatile 4 [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VcP_1Ua__vY/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent diagnosing and repair. The second vehicle was a bonus in the video! Keep the nice work up dear sir.
Thanks!
When it starts squealing. I pull the pulley. Pop off the back and repack it with Lucas red grease. Works like a charm I do this with tension pulley and main pulley. FYI
Your video really helped me. especially the chart. I had a power steering pulley that I had not installed all the way on. Only an 1/8 of an inch and it was squealing upon reassembly. Pressed on an additional 1/8 inch, squeak gone. again Thanks.
Well explained video on belt squeal , great job.
Thanks for sharing another great video diagnosing and repairing the problems we all encounter!
Thanks!
Great video Dave and you knocked those issues right out! That was a good catch in seeing that that bearing was not running true. Also good tips sprinkled throughout the video. Keep up the good work and don't work too hard! 😀👍
Yeah, sometimes it's better to replace the pulley than to fiddle with trying to bend the two axes onto the same line. Thanks again for watching my videos, Terry.
I have seen several RUclips videos on this topic. Yours is the best I have seen. The explanation of the three sources of belt problem at the outset is superb, but there is a bit missing. One belt problem is said to be a misalignment somewhere, which makes sense. However, I have yet to see any explanation of how to correct a misalignment if that is indeed the problem.
Keep up the great videos. It is so kind of you to share your considerable expertise with others. Thank you.
Yes, excellent point, alignment is often from mismatched parts or bent brackets. Sometimes you can get by with spacers if the misalignment is a parallel shift. I've seen a nifty tool that sits in the groove of a pulley, shooting a laser to help align secondary parts to the plane of the main pulley. We use a similar tool in astronomy to collimate a Newtonian reflector, and maybe I could modify it to sit in the groove of a pulley, ha ha. The pulley on my alternator is a little off, mostly because the bracket is inadequate and the alternator tilts away when we apply tension. Thanks for stopping by!
i put bearings in freezer to shrink them for install less force required but got to install quickly, you can warm the other part up .
Good point, there are many options. In other situations where the female part is small I've seen some people put parts into an oven to expand the opening. As long as the parts aren't cooked, it works fine. These bearings slide in easily because the larger part is still small enough to position inside a press or over an anvil. When the bigger part can't come off the car, as with a differential or transfer case bearing, freezing works great and there's no risk of overheating. As you say, you don't have to hit it so hard to get it in. Of course for people who don't want to bother, the cost of the pulley in this case isn't much more than the bearing. NAPA was ready to sell me the idle arm pulley for $30 compared to $10 for the bearing alone. As always, thanks for adding your thoughts here -- your remarks make the comment section worth reading.
You sound Canadian.
this so a good video for me to understand why my bearings are squeaking.
Yup, Victoria, just a stone's throw from Seattle, ha ha.
@@spelunkerd
you are pretty close.
Great video, you covered all the bases.
Thanks!
Smashing job, and you found a definite problem :-D.
It's a pain when there is an intermittant fault.
I've had so many electronic repairs where the fault vanishes the second you open the device up, it sends me madder than i allready am lol :-D.
My mate has an old uk ford transit van, it squeels too, a tiny bit of water and it stops, but it does not do it all the time lol, annoying fault.
Alignment issues can be a problem because it's sometimes hard to get all the pulleys on the same plane, especially if the brackets don't allow for adjustment of angles. Thanks again for watching my videos, you always seem to add something thoughtful.
Isolating and testing the individual items certainly unearthed the evidence. Handy to be able to swap over the bearings and reinstall the new ones. Good tip on cleaning the belt groves. What's your opinion on belt dressing in a spray can ?
I have a can I bought ten years ago, I never use it. I'm still scratching my head to think of a reason I would want to use it, ha ha. Thanks for watching, Tom.
Hey! I thought the bungee cord was my original idea🤣🤣🤣🤣. Great video, thanks for sharing.
I can't remember which of those three of those 3 on that chevy where the whole thing is cheaper, or about the same price when all is said and done than just the bearing. I did all the pulleys on my '03 earlier this summer, I had all new ones, but the tensioners were still good just bad bearings. actually now that I think about it, I'm sure it was that AC tensioner. I did the idler bearing, it was cheaper that the whole idler, I broke the main belt tensioner pulley trying to press the bearing out, because apparently it doesn't come out, but the pulley w/ bearing was available separately, but when I went to get the bearing for the AC the price after tax was like 28 bucks and the whole tensioner was like 32 after tax. I guess $4 is not a lot but the alignment is a factor. I've done bearings before that when I put the pulley back on, it wobbled.
Yeah, prices vary and of course it's not easy to deal with wobble. In my case the new Ram tensioner was over $100, the idler pulley was $36 and the bearing was $10, all in Canadian dollars. I probably could have done better with pricing by getting them online, but extra shipping charges for Canadians can be huge and i didn't want to wait. These bearings pressed out really easily, and I think pressing them out with a hammer and a wooden drift would have worked, too. Thanks for watching, your remark will help others in a similar situation.
Very nice presentation sir as always. Thank you. Cheers
Thanks, Ramon!
Great video, I get a screech sound on every fresh start up then it sort of squeaks for a bit, but after a few minutes it goes quiet, dose anyone have an idea what this is ?
Bad tensioner would be high on the list, easy to check out and replace. In this video, similar to the Dodge Ram example.
@@spelunkerd Thanks, i will check it out !
Hi, don't bother to replace bearings. A replacement idler pulley is less than £15. Just change it
Good point, in retrospect it wasn't worth the effort. On the other hand, it is always nice to have multiple options, for situations where parts are delayed, etc.
Henry, thank you so much. Your videos, though infrequent, are excellent- the best; no matter what the topic. Rot, nautical,auto, electrical, whatever. Your issues often match mine- my oven door, deck foundation rot and now my dodge hemi squeaking noise.Your scientific method is right on. What is the meaning of ' Document ' the problem ? from an electrical one ? Thanks again. Go Leafs.
What a kind remark, thank you! As much as I grew up hoping Dave Keon would turn the tables, I gave up on the loafs years ago, ha ha.
Dave
Could a out of eligne tensioner pulley burn out the other pulleys
Yes.
Good job as always
Thanks, Angela.
Dave
I saw eric o's video about the screwdriver and bottle too HAHAHAH. I made mine out of a windshield wiper bottle and cut down the thread of the bottle in 4 directions and tape on a breaker bar.I was working a 2008 tahoe and this a/c compressor bearing was so shot... The pulley was moving back n fourth. the idler pulley and a/c tentioner were also bad.
The biggest advantage of his idea is the fact you don't have to lean over the moving belts, it's a lot safer. It does take some time and experience to understand normal, since even normal sounds are distorted and amplified. Most of the pulleys I've seen have had obvious problems when the belt is off, and often you can feel the uneven, scraping resistance of bad bearings. Maybe it's because I procrastinate so long, the findings are obvious. For those that aren't so bad, listening devices may help.
Richard, thanks for watching!
Dave
What's the best way to change out my rear drum brakes to disc brakes on my 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 should I change the whole rear axle or should I get a kit
Brakes on the Ram are not great but rear brakes don't contribute a whole lot, especially in a pickup where there isn't much weight in the back. Personally I wouldn't switch, but I can't say I know much about that topic. Good luck!
spelunkerd thx
fine job
Thanks, man.
Does this means that I don't have to buy new tentioner'!.....😀😁☺😊
Two things can fail on a tensioner. If the spring won't hold tension, as in the example with the Dodge, you need a new one. On the other hand if it's just the bearing, you can press in a new bearing. That said, if you don't have the tools or time to fiddle with it, replacing the tensioner will fix both. And prices may be comparable so it may depend on how you value your time.
My Nissan Truck doesn't have a tensioner pulley but squeals upon starting and gets worse when I turn the heater on. Anyone have a suggestion?
Those with no tensioner will use accessory parts like the alternator to put the correct tension on the belt. First I'd check that the tension is still correct by pressing on a length of belt to see how far it deflects. Even in a long stretch it shouldn't deflect more than a centimeter or so. If the belt has stretched over time, then your problem is improved by adjusting the position of an accessory. While the belt is off I would spin each pulley in turn to see if one is failing, you can often feel the coarse response of a bad bearing. Good luck!
@@spelunkerd q32
i replace my belts an no more noise...
great video! thanks a lot! but please take that ring off. i'd hate to see you lose a finger...
I can do that by myself
squeeler