Truth be told the plug is far from garbage. Its the most beautiful plug ive used. And its built as stout as it gets. Sounds killer too. $300? Yes, thats a lot. And you can modify one of thier other plugs to get same performance, different look, lot less cash.. But if you want that look and Quality theres only one plug like this one.
The screws are earthed for safety. You could make the whole thing out of plastic to avoids electromagnetic eddies inducing current. Oh wait plastic , can’t sell that for much. I know just hard wire it to the mains like a cooker.
Question what did you pore to make it resonate free inside your custom plugs? Was thinking what would be best because some stuff is better then others for example some material blocks rfi,emi,etc. Also do you have vids showing you making those custom plugs?
What's this resonance you're worried about from a plug that can effect your gear?👀 I'm sure you'd have them decoupled or coupled as the case maybe....a plug won't make any difference whatsoever!!
Well, the whole audiophile power cords is BS, but I believe he said stainless steel which is non magnetic. But a non resonant cord cap, LMAO! I wanna see some scientific data on this power cord c#%@. I was an electrician all my life, installed hospital grade and done about any kinda power dist. you can imagine and 300 dollar cord cap??? Well more money than brains, or a fool and his money are soon parted, now I know how these sayings came to be. Take some of the money, go to school and study PLACEBO effect!
Are you sure the clamps are ferrite material? I think all types of ferrites have some iron oxides in them which would deflect the EM wave, something it seems Furutech tries to avoid. Does a magnet stick to the clamp? My guess is it would be anthoer material mix that can reduce high frequency noise. Stripping out all the excess metals from the plug makes a good difference!
Perhaps you are correct Bri=uce, if that is true, I do not know which material it would be . I will try to magnetize it next time just to try and determine... Thanks for the feedback !
'Deflecting waves' is rubbish. And the ferrite would only have an effect (as a common mode choke) if it made a full loop around the cable. The effective air gaps at the screws drop the effectiveness to dick all.
Very cool, man. Thanks for sharing that info. Can I ask what type / brand of solder you use, Mikey? Does it even matter? Is there an advantage you know of with something like Cardas solder, or am I fine to continue using eutectic 63/37?
Dave G Ha! Good answer. I guess I deserved that. lol In my defense, I do a lot of DIY stuff and was just curious if Mike preferred a certain brand or if it even really matters and if one can produce better conductivity over another.
@@NickP333 only joking, I do a lot of diy on my audio gear. Later on I'm going to remove the toroidal from my CD transport and putting it in a separate box, just to see if the removing slight vibrations improves the performance. If not I can always put it back.😀
Dave G Haha! Yeah, I totally knew you were just joking around. I thought it was funny as hell, especially after thinking about what a ridiculous question it sounds like in the first place, but what you’re doing with that transformer shows me that we’re both pretty much on the same page. I’m changing the caps in my phono pre and have been tube rolling for days now, so yeah... lol
Those screws are grounded because they go into a metal body........ its not a double insulated thing. since it has a metal casing. by the way it is stainless steel you said... no magnetizing there if they at least used High grade stainless.. its all rediculous anyways, you cant hear a stupid power plug.
How do you fill the IEC with epoxy without having it come out of the connector holes and gunking everything up? I've tried a couple of times and even using a hot glue gun to try sealing everything it still managed to get through and made the connector unusable.
Unless using smaller guage solid-core wire, it's a real bitch trying to get all the strands between the mostly inadequate wire clamps, they are either half-ass design or too small. I used to tin the ends to keep them from splaying apart and form a "solid connection" in the clamp section.
A little off topic, but power related, have you done a vid about protection from brown outs?? I have decent surge protection and surge protection on the main panel on the outside of my house. But when the power is flickering on and off during a store it freaks me out! And I can't unplug things fast enough!!
Great info. Thanks Mikey. Do you use quartz or sugar or Rochelle salt for the Piezoelectric? Do you use black magnetite or Lodestone or iron for the ferromagnetic? Or all of the above? Now I see the value of the Furutech. Thank you.
Ok so the exact materials I use are proprietary. It took me 2 years of trial and error to come up with my mix. I did not even have the types of minerals, so Ive given you two. Piezo and Ferro. All of them will work. Some better than others. The size of the granules depicts the frequency in which they function. Google it. Theres a lot of good info.
Industrial grade connectors (the big ones with round plugs used for heavy machinery) is the way to go. Nothing comes close to those babies. 100% contact area. Grabs like a crocolide and much more robust design. Not the most practical tho since you have to custom build everything .
there is no audio grade....... its a non existing term. in the US wont likely pull 3600Watt from a plug.. as europeans do... we dont have these ridiculous cables to handle twice the power. 2..5mm2 solid core cables can handle that....
Nick wow that’s one hell of a plug. And no I don’t believe you. Just make sure you connect to the correct end of the wire as we all no cable is directional. Oh and a bit of frost helps as well, got to freezzzz them bad boys, helps the molecules get aligned. Apparently!!!!!.
Pretty snobby statement. And who's to say that the people who claim to hear a difference in their hifi are telling the truth? Or perhaps they don't want to admit that their shiny new $300 plug did nothing for them? I'd imagine that the proper maintenance of your ears would make a huge difference to audio quality too. Never seen anyone recommending getting your ears syringed over blowing a crap ton of money on a power lead though, guess there's no profit in it 🙄
@@deaffromabove6640 hes trying to make a valid point. But its delivered at the wrong time. In this youtube listeniing environment the last thing to listen on is a HiFi rig. This is optimized for cel phone and earbuds. Yet, with high performance cables they would be a waste to use with a Denon Receiver because the thing is not sensitive or responsive enough to gain anything. Put that same cord in a $100K system and you better believe youre going to hear everything about it , including different plating on the plug contacts. And we dont lie to each other about what we hear.
These things are not any different than a normal plug, just different material that doesn't make a difference. This is such snake oil. Way overpriced and nonsense.
I design power distribution systems for among other things laboratories where some of the most advanced and sensitive instrumentation in the world is installed. If I were to spec any of those audiophile receptacles or plugs I'd be fired. Among other things hospital grade receptacle have the ground pin first to make, last to break reducing the possibility of an arc near a bedside where oxygen is in use. I don't like the idea of an electrically conductive body. It increases the risk of electrocution. Are those plugs UL listed? Are your power cables? You do not want an isolated ground receptacle in a residential building. An IG receptacle has the equipment ground and safety ground not connected. They use separate wires back to the panel where there are separate ground bars. In buildings where the wall studs and boxes are metal, ground current can theoretically flow causing problems for A/V equipment. Where studs are wood that problem doesn't exist. If you install one in a residential building by mistake you need to install a bonding jumper between the two grounds at the receptacle. In the United States the safety ground wire is green or bare in the case of Romex and the isolated ground wire is green with a yellow trace. Why not just use the same Romex that's in the wall for your power cable, solder it directly to the equipment at one end and connect it to a 30 or 60 amp safety disconnect switch at the other end eliminating the receptacle and plug entirely?
Nice vid very informative gives me some ideas also proves the overpriced garbage being sold to people exploiting them.
Truth be told the plug is far from garbage. Its the most beautiful plug ive used. And its built as stout as it gets. Sounds killer too. $300? Yes, thats a lot. And you can modify one of thier other plugs to get same performance, different look, lot less cash..
But if you want that look and Quality theres only one plug like this one.
@@OCDHIFiGuy
You should also check out Duelund Plasticless RCA and Aeco XLRs.
Please help me with this kind of diy scripts often, it is very knowledgeable to me and I have built the AC power cords that you teach sound very good.
This is the coolest thing for US DIYers... I mean ... it’s just awesome!
Thanks for very informative video.
The world is indeed very, very strange.
Good but great video Mikey.
The screws are earthed for safety. You could make the whole thing out of plastic to avoids electromagnetic eddies inducing current. Oh wait plastic , can’t sell that for much. I know just hard wire it to the mains like a cooker.
Exactly
That also grounds the shell.
This is funny. 😂
Ur knowledge about audio is funny, go watch some budget hifi channels, they will stroke ur ego all day.
Very interesting Mikey.
Question what did you pore to make it resonate free inside your custom plugs? Was thinking what would be best because some stuff is better then others for example some material blocks rfi,emi,etc. Also do you have vids showing you making those custom plugs?
What's this resonance you're worried about from a plug that can effect your gear?👀
I'm sure you'd have them decoupled or coupled as the case maybe....a plug won't make any difference whatsoever!!
So, if the steel screws can get magnetic, why make the the shell out of steel too?
Well, the whole audiophile power cords is BS, but I believe he said stainless steel which is non magnetic. But a non resonant cord cap, LMAO! I wanna see some scientific data on this power cord c#%@. I was an electrician all my life, installed hospital grade and done about any kinda power dist. you can imagine and 300 dollar cord cap??? Well more money than brains, or a fool and his money are soon parted, now I know how these sayings came to be. Take some of the money, go to school and study PLACEBO effect!
You
Need to check out the Boccino Baluga and Santa Maria Connectors. They are in a different League from the rest.
Are you sure the clamps are ferrite material? I think all types of ferrites have some iron oxides in them which would deflect the EM wave, something it seems Furutech tries to avoid. Does a magnet stick to the clamp? My guess is it would be anthoer material mix that can reduce high frequency noise. Stripping out all the excess metals from the plug makes a good difference!
Perhaps you are correct Bri=uce, if that is true, I do not know which material it would be . I will try to magnetize it next time just to try and determine... Thanks for the feedback !
'Deflecting waves' is rubbish. And the ferrite would only have an effect (as a common mode choke) if it made a full loop around the cable. The effective air gaps at the screws drop the effectiveness to dick all.
Very cool, man. Thanks for sharing that info. Can I ask what type / brand of solder you use, Mikey?
Does it even matter? Is there an advantage you know of with something like Cardas solder, or am I fine to continue using eutectic 63/37?
I think it cryo treated and directional solder used in the aerospace industry.
@@r423sdex your first comment made me chuckle, but this second one....
😂🤣😆😂🤣😆🤣😂😜
Dave G
Ha! Good answer. I guess I deserved that. lol
In my defense, I do a lot of DIY stuff and was just curious if Mike preferred a certain brand or if it even really matters and if one can produce better conductivity over another.
@@NickP333 only joking, I do a lot of diy on my audio gear. Later on I'm going to remove the toroidal from my CD transport and putting it in a separate box, just to see if the removing slight vibrations improves the performance. If not I can always put it back.😀
Dave G
Haha! Yeah, I totally knew you were just joking around. I thought it was funny as hell, especially after thinking about what a ridiculous question it sounds like in the first place, but what you’re doing with that transformer shows me that we’re both pretty much on the same page. I’m changing the caps in my phono pre and have been tube rolling for days now, so yeah... lol
Those screws are grounded because they go into a metal body........ its not a double insulated thing. since it has a metal casing.
by the way it is stainless steel you said... no magnetizing there if they at least used High grade stainless.. its all rediculous anyways, you cant hear a stupid power plug.
316 stainless is non magnetic - but 304 stainless IS magnetic.
Love it! Those make my power cord plugs look like toys.
Nuts huh ?
How do you fill the IEC with epoxy without having it come out of the connector holes and gunking everything up? I've tried a couple of times and even using a hot glue gun to try sealing everything it still managed to get through and made the connector unusable.
These are all things that are proprietary and took me time and money with lots of gunked up parts. I did this with an fi50 once. Toasted. Bummer.
Hey Mikey can you do a sound comparison of your cable vs other cables please ?.
Unless using smaller guage solid-core wire, it's a real bitch trying to get all the strands between the mostly inadequate wire clamps, they are either half-ass design or too small.
I used to tin the ends to keep them from splaying apart and form a "solid connection" in the clamp section.
A little off topic, but power related, have you done a vid about protection from brown outs?? I have decent surge protection and surge protection on the main panel on the outside of my house. But when the power is flickering on and off during a store it freaks me out! And I can't unplug things fast enough!!
I'am not a fan of jewelry so this saves me a lot of $bullshit thanks Mikey👊
You bet Anjo !
Q; how would you improve a Neutrik PowerCon.....?
Caig Gold and plug it in.
I use Stabilant 22. But main answer is theres no room to do anything.
Mike whats the manufacturer of the cheapo plug for $3.50. It looked decent for the price
You just gotta be kidding furutech , make the most amazing sounding plugs with rhodium in the world
Great info. Thanks Mikey. Do you use quartz or sugar or Rochelle salt for the Piezoelectric? Do you use black magnetite or Lodestone or iron for the ferromagnetic? Or all of the above? Now I see the value of the Furutech. Thank you.
Ok so the exact materials I use are proprietary. It took me 2 years of trial and error to come up with my mix. I did not even have the types of minerals, so Ive given you two. Piezo and Ferro. All of them will work. Some better than others. The size of the granules depicts the frequency in which they function. Google it. Theres a lot of good info.
@@OCDHIFiGuy Thank you.
Hi. What kind of soldering iron/station you are using for elect. plugs ?
Industrial grade connectors (the big ones with round plugs used for heavy machinery) is the way to go. Nothing comes close to those babies. 100% contact area. Grabs like a crocolide and much more robust design. Not the most practical tho since you have to custom build everything .
Cool vid, but a tripod would be great
I know, I've got one now
Hey Mikey, did you ever get around to installing that giant isolation transformer?
Not yet. Soon tho !
Love
What is the name of the $3.50 audio grade male plug ..
Its Generic and is found in Taiwan. You can find them on Ebay. Search , "audio grade plug" or "audio grade iec" even amazon has some of these.
there is no audio grade....... its a non existing term. in the US wont likely pull 3600Watt from a plug.. as europeans do... we dont have these ridiculous cables to handle twice the power. 2..5mm2 solid core cables can handle that....
What are the sonic advantages ?. 😂
Where do I begin ? Have you got a few hours ??
@@OCDHIFiGuy that big from a plug !!!!.
It makes you hear the creak from John Bonham drum bass pedal,believe me!
Nick wow that’s one hell of a plug. And no I don’t believe you. Just make sure you connect to the correct end of the wire as we all no cable is directional. Oh and a bit of frost helps as well, got to freezzzz them bad boys, helps the molecules get aligned. Apparently!!!!!.
@@Nick-jp5tu with this cable can hear john Bonham play drums from the beyond
Audio jewelry
I call bulls shit!
If people cannot hear these type improvements, maybe they really don't have a HI-FI system.
You make a good point. I present this question as well. Im just not going to grill balls about it. As you know its touchy territory.
Pretty snobby statement. And who's to say that the people who claim to hear a difference in their hifi are telling the truth? Or perhaps they don't want to admit that their shiny new $300 plug did nothing for them? I'd imagine that the proper maintenance of your ears would make a huge difference to audio quality too. Never seen anyone recommending getting your ears syringed over blowing a crap ton of money on a power lead though, guess there's no profit in it 🙄
I don't know if these cables really work well, I'm missing the part where you put the snake oil inside the connector
@@deaffromabove6640 hes trying to make a valid point. But its delivered at the wrong time. In this youtube listeniing environment the last thing to listen on is a HiFi rig. This is optimized for cel phone and earbuds. Yet, with high performance cables they would be a waste to use with a Denon Receiver because the thing is not sensitive or responsive enough to gain anything. Put that same cord in a $100K system and you better believe youre going to hear everything about it , including different plating on the plug contacts. And we dont lie to each other about what we hear.
@@animalmuppetmonster664 thats because it does not go into the connector dum dum. We soak it into the jacket.
WOW
These things are not any different than a normal plug, just different material that doesn't make a difference. This is such snake oil. Way overpriced and nonsense.
Then..... why are you here? 🤔
This channel is complete BS.
Covid free?
I design power distribution systems for among other things laboratories where some of the most advanced and sensitive instrumentation in the world is installed. If I were to spec any of those audiophile receptacles or plugs I'd be fired. Among other things hospital grade receptacle have the ground pin first to make, last to break reducing the possibility of an arc near a bedside where oxygen is in use. I don't like the idea of an electrically conductive body. It increases the risk of electrocution. Are those plugs UL listed? Are your power cables?
You do not want an isolated ground receptacle in a residential building. An IG receptacle has the equipment ground and safety ground not connected. They use separate wires back to the panel where there are separate ground bars. In buildings where the wall studs and boxes are metal, ground current can theoretically flow causing problems for A/V equipment. Where studs are wood that problem doesn't exist. If you install one in a residential building by mistake you need to install a bonding jumper between the two grounds at the receptacle. In the United States the safety ground wire is green or bare in the case of Romex and the isolated ground wire is green with a yellow trace. Why not just use the same Romex that's in the wall for your power cable, solder it directly to the equipment at one end and connect it to a 30 or 60 amp safety disconnect switch at the other end eliminating the receptacle and plug entirely?
😴
Pure BS…
Crazy how many they sell..