There is another turbine on the turbo that is on the exhaust side and the turbo gets spun by the exhaust fumes rushing out the engine and there for spinning the turbine at the front that is sucking in more air into the engine. And with more air you need more fuel and more fuel and air=more power.
Nitro Meghan e85 pump gas 93 or jet fuel has a higher octane rating that prevents the engine from detonation or pinging that is like tiny tnt bombs in your engine. That’s no good and will break your internals let alone give you less performance. A clean engine creates a fireball that pushes the piston. Down turning it into torque than horsepower allows you to add more timing and boost that nets you more power
Nitromethane is just a different type or fuel, you can turbo charge an engine with any fuel, im not sure why hes using Nitromethane but its really irrelevant as far as you should be concerned. It sounds like you dont know much about engines but thats okay!! Do some research and learn more and you might find yourself like me; addicted to cars and passionate about building engines
I’m just trying to help not being a d%#! but you are shooting way to much fuel so you are slowing the engine so the engine can not build rpm and boost, if you look on the run that you got the 7400 rpm that’s when you had the the closest mix that’s why the rpm went up about the boost the best way to get boost is to put rpms and then put some load and you will see boost! I want to see this thing working and building boost just trying to help!!
Mate the turbo is fine, you need a 28mm pitbike carb in front of the turbo, an old fuel pump to supply oil pressure to the turbo so it can actually spin, and mix 10% nitro with normal fuel. Then she'll boost. Drowning tho whole thing in liquid aint efficient.
@@JefeInquisidorGOW No you don't. The oil pressure is for lubricating the turbo, not actually making boost. But yeah, without it the turbos aren't gonna last very long
In front of a 50cc cyl 4-stroke? Nope! Even in front of a 70cc 2-stroke that's gonna be hard to get a fine mist out off. Pro GP teams where doing 34-36mm on 125cc bikes pushed to their absolute limit. Yeah the turbo adds some more flow, but at 2 psi that's only 15%, so a MAX 21mm carb and that should be sufficient to even do 7 psi on a 50cc, with ease! Jetting is the name of the game here and likely boring out the feed "tube" to max capacity (as i don't think hi've done that yet, should have been done at the ethanol conversion), not "bigger is better" US approach
@@VikingRul3s Cool sounds good, any carb you like, carb size is kind of irrelevant here, you just need one. The turbo also needs oil "pressure" to act as bearings so its spins. Jetting will just be a bit of trial and error, I ran my 135cc lawn mower for years with a 28mm pitbike carb and it was fine, people are riding 125's right now somewhere with 28mm carbs, but i think you probably should start with a smaller carb and play from there. Btw that motor doesn't look like a 50cc, more like a 150cc on video.
@@madazz01 Yeah, that's what i meant with "lubricating the turbo" in the comment above. I just dumb it down a bit so none-gear heads can understand it 😊 28mm on a 135cc seems way better! Carbs can actually get to big, if you throw a too big on, the misting from the jet is gonna be weak and inefficient, so loss of power. But yeah, it's not like a 28mm on 50cc will complete kill it, it'll still run, though the mixture may be quite lean. I could be wrong about the engine size, for sure!!! It's just a guess, I just assume it's 50cc because of the rated bhp, 2,5-3 is the smallest mover engines here, usually around 50cc. But i'm from EU, not sure mover engines are similar in USA 😊
@@MAGGOT_VOMIT, It refuses to build pressure because the American engine and the German turbo hate each others guts. Shouldn't he supercharge it instead?
@@dadigitechmanjunior I can't believe that it didn't blow up! All that raw fule next to an open exhaust and an overheated engine. Where is the fire ext?
*His concept is wrong. You can't build boost pressure without a load on it. Plus liquid doesn't burn, Vapors do. He should be shooting Ether in it, not drowning it.*
Biggest relief ever when you show that new turbo and Im like NOOOOOO I DON'T WANT TO WAIT FOR NEW EP. Then I notice the video is only half way through and realize we're gonna see it run right now!
Consider adding an oil pump for the turbo. Since it's most likely not ball bearing it needs oil pressure to "float" in the oil and spin freely like its supposed to. Also, consider a twin cylinder so the turbo isn't free spinning between exhaust strokes. This will help to maintain and build boost. For inspiration or ideas, the Ruckus Scooter community has successfully turbocharged several of those engines and if memory serves they're 125 or 150cc engines.
how can it be better if he adds an oil pump for the turbo? since it had lube then if its in engine oil it wont make a difference? sorry if im mistaking.
MixaL1s6804 The way a journal bearing works, it needs a proper oil film to float and reduce friction. This usually requires flow and pressure. But in this application, eh probably negligible
@@phantom240 Maybe... but when the oil starts bubbling out of the feed port looking like silver paint, I'm betting whatever bearing WAS in there, ISN'T any more.
@@kleetus92 you get it. MixalL1s6804: phantom240 said it well enough, but it does matter, a lot. The center of that wheel should be spinning at close to 100k-200k rpm and will be completely destroyed without "floating" in the oil. If you really want to know what's going on I emplore you to Google how bearings work in an engine or turbo. There's just too much information to answer the why in detail on here. But to address the oil in the crank case, it really should be cycled and filtered to pull that nitro and water out because its hurting performance with the way it is now.
I have one of those 3 hp Briggs engines(from 1979), the cam holds the intake valve open for most of the compression stroke to make the engine easier to start, if you were to shave the intake valve stem, or the the side of the cam lobe that is enlarged you would probably be able to make a lot more power
I'd LOVE to test one of your see through rotary engines! That would be amazing! By the way, the production quality of your videos is absolutely amazing, which makes them very enjoyable to watch! Thanks again for all the time and effort you invest in the videos.
Lol most accurate fuel consumption math I've ever seen. 44oz.....28 of witch ended up on/around the surrounding floor not burned. Great video for the curious!
@Johnny Steffy It's not "trial and error" when you throw fuel everywhere then say "I used X amount of fuel". He has no idea how much fuel went in the engine. You're a moron, worse, you're a lesson... Get it? I surely doubt it...
@Dave Micolichek You didn't even watch the video. You said it yourself "inside". He's spraying a lot of the fuel "outside" where the fuel is wasted completely and has no effects on the performance of the engine. That's what We are talking about dumbass and yet you run your mouth like a troll. Go ahead and watch the video again and you'll see how much of a moron you really are. If you are smart and a little bit humble, your next message should be apologetic. Then I'll recant my judgement upon you. Or stay stupid and laugh.
@Dave Micolichek My statement still stands. The word wasn't right but it doesn't make my statement wrong. It's just in the after note. You're just a troll, you can't even spell right and your syntax is terrible. You accuse SOMEONE (not "some one") of "talking smack" yet it's just a diversion to put them on the defensive to keep them from noticing you're doing the same exact thing. If you have any pride whatsoever you should feel pretty stupid to be schooled by someone who started to learn English in their 20s as a second language. But I think you're deluded by your sense of superiority. Which is common to Morons (i.e. someone with the intellect of a 9 to 12 years old, as an obsolete medical term yet very adequate to describe you). Hell, are you at that age? Sorry, you didn't fool me buddy.
As you probably know, most turbos wont spool till you load the engine. It should also do a lot better if you get a carb off a bigger engine, say a 420cc and mount it in front of the turbo for a pull thru design.
Most engines won't spool a turbo unless they're under load. The turbo can spool regardless of whether on not there is any load, it just needs pressure from the exhaust.
Same here, I'm glad at least somebody got it, I think you're the first out of 200,000 people. When I did that I was laughing pretty hard, when I watched it I was laughing my a** off. It was a last-minute idea but I knew it was going to be funny and it actually worked, kind of. I always go with the flow but it did give people a good example carburetor vs. Fuel injection, especially once it's compared with the next episode where I do proper fuel injection.
an engine will need nearly 5 times as much nitro vs gasoline to run anywhere near stoich, which allows an engine to burn a ton more fuel which = power. nitro has it's own oxygen atom
My favourite run was the run u liked the most to! The sound was awesome! It reminded me of when i used to moe my lawn lol cause i rigged a shoe lace straight to the throttle so i could over ride the automatic govoner so i could have fun reving it as i mowed the lawn!
Use a multi piston engine (like a 2 piston) if you want to spool even the tiniest turbo. Having oil pressure on the journal bearing actually helps it spool to the designed RPM as well FYI (takes that small amt of play away you feel when moving it by hand.) Retarding the timing helps to spool any turbo as well. This video would have been REALLY COOL if you were able to spool up 10 - 20 psi. Maybe get 1 actual fuel injector and rig it to pulse like it normally operates. That will give you a great mist pattern for the most complete burn.
I am one of the silly people that have spent thousands on turbo charging a single cylinder (my raptor 700). You learn multiple cylinders is key to dependable boost and turbo reliability. Turbos don't like the sudden exhaust pulse every 720* of crank rotation
Engine effenciety is like how much heat you can get of buring fuel Effenciety for this engine it's like a i dont know maybe 40%... of all burned fuel I just mean you can't say that making more power it's making it more efficient becouse you adding boost pressure and more fuel to the engine. Effenciety still is on the same level
It's great to have the See-Through cylinder head so you can see what's going on in terms of combustion. The right mixture was the key to good operation. Unfortunately, the turbo was lacking a proper oil line and with all that extra metal that came out with the oil, I wonder if a proper synthetic oil was used. Also, seeing as how you're increasing loads and adding on the turbo function, I wonder if you need a proper oil circulation system complete with a filter. Obviously a little overboard but that would keep contaminants out of the crankcase.
Not to be insulting but he has no idea what hes doing does he lol. You dont just spritse fuel at a turbo. You need a fuel management unit of some kind or a fuel regulator that turns boost or vacuum pressure into increased fuel. My suggestion would be get a carb with like the smallest low jet possible, and basically use as little fuel as possible that still makes it barely run. Then fiddle with an FMU that steps up fuel pressure with an adjustable wastegate set to like 3psi. Looks to me my guess is its way too rich, and that turbo isnt getting steady exhaust flow to make boost or you have nothing controlling the wastegate which is what it looked like. Thats why i think i saw bubbling (fuel?) From the wastegate when u took the pipe off.
Liam you don’t know how carburetors work do you. You can’t increase fuel pressure to increase flow in a carb. It’s only using the Venturi to draw the fuel from the float bowl. If you get too high of pressure you’ll end up just pushing past the needle and seat attached to the float. He should really just put the carb before the turbo in a drawthrough setup. Tune the jets from there and be done.
@@allthathpandnotire3019 yeah sorry lol i had fuel injection on the mind which is what most people do. And idk im not 100 percent tuned into what small engine carbs can take, lot of car guys use blow through setups
Laim... that poor thing was drowning in fuel lmao it was running in low to mid rpm... it's capable of doing better than 4200 RPM... could hit 10hp+ @ 7000k+ lmao... a hit of starter fluid would of been cool lol
I don't think EFI would work with nitro methane. The best option would be to buy a methonal injection kit and use that as a forced metered orifice. That will work better than the spray bottle. The EFI would not have a strong enough driver to run a upgraded fuel injector.
"My goal is to make this thing come apart, blow it up" as he stands right next to it sprayin her down with nitro from a pump sprayer.... This is either the luckiest guy in world or there is a god and he loves stupid people. Careful what you wish for.
This guy literally pours tons of fuel into the engine without vaporizing it in any way and wonders why it´s not running very well... Appreciate all the work you put in your videos but this is just not the right way to do it.
Ha!! yeah it was fun I thought it was pretty Kamikaze and very interesting to see if they would actually run and make power just pouring it in there like that. But I mainly did it for 3 reasons, to have fun, to see if it would actually work and make power and boost oh, and to give people who know absolutely nothing about cars a good comparison between this episode where I'm just pouring it or spraying it into the intake system, and the next episode where I use an electronic fuel injection system, a similar structure to what everybody's car uses, this is going to give everybody who is not super knowledgeable about cars and example I've why modern cars use fuel injection and engine management compared to the old carburetor cars or even worse that really really old carbureted cars. That's why I did it. Thanks for the feedback and thanks for the kind words, I'm glad you enjoyed it
@@WarpedYT I once poured gunpowder into a 2 stroke weedwhacker engine and the piston kissed the crankshaft..and that on 2 stroke Oo what would happen with a 4 stroke....U HAVE TO DOOO ITTT >3...u could run it on gunpowder if i recall correctly...just make a bowl tip into the carburator with a string
Usually running lean gets you high rpm and power right before it starves the engine of fuel and overheats. Running rich really bogs it down as we are seeing. But props for the determination that was awesome how you kept saying "I'm gonna give it another run" 👍👍👍
Hell yeah bro! Been waiting for this. Excellent job. When you were shooting the fuel into the turbo intake, I was literally screaming at my TV telling you to do it after the turbo. I guess you heard me cause then you did it, lol! Next episode is going to be even better! Thank you!!
😁😁😁🤩. Yeah after the turbo makes sense. I wanted to focus on the difference so people can relate to a few different things. Old carbureted cars, first type of turbo draw through systems, and last but not least the most modern fuel injection system, I like to set up those kind of scenarios so people who don't know cars really well can still understand and relate. Thanks I'm glad I finally got this one done, had a really tough 2018 but I'm good now, I'll be bringing a lot of stuff to RUclips this year oh, I'm trying at least once or twice a week.
Maybe try a little dry shot of nitrous at the turbo. I watch the Cletus McFarland channel and it is hilarious when those guys blow up an engine by doing that.
i was cringing at the "mechanical fuel injection" spraying nitro all over the hot turbo of a running engine.. im honestly surprised it didnt catch on fire. but i think the biggest issue you're having with making boost is because you don't have a pressurized oil system for the turbo. they use journal bearings and if you don't have pressurized oil going through them theres going to be a huge amount of friction in the bearings preventing it from spooling. they don't have ball bearings it's literally a steel shaft that goes through a bronze tube essentially. it needs pressurized oil to be lubricated, just pouring some oil in won't work, even for a short amount of time. you can make an external oiling system with an oil tank and a pump completely separate from the engine, and that would probably make a huge difference on how much the turbo spools.
I was hoping it caught on fire, can you imagine how cool that would have look the engine running with the see-through head while on fire in slow motion!!. I did find out later on that the top mounting hole actually goes through into the compressor housing oh, so it was leaking all of the boost out of that little bolt-hole. If you look back at the episode and look at the part where I'm spraying the nitromethane engine the turbo oh, you can see it coming out of the hole. Next time I'll put a bolt in that hole and I guarantee you it's going to make a lot of boost
@Dave Micolichek exactly, that was the problem, after I saw that in the video I wanted to go back and plug that hole and give it another run, but without the camera set up and running I don't even want to attempt it, with my luck it'll make 10 pounds of boost and blow apart without any cameras rolling..lol. I also found it pretty entertaining how everybody on this video things that I have no idea what I'm doing..lol. I love it . it will definitely need way last nitromethane is that bolt hole is plugged, half of it was coming right back out maybe even more than half, for the next episode I'm going to make that my very first run with the bolt hole plugged. Thanks for the feedback
Single cylinder turbo engines run best with what's called an air capacitor on the intake side between the turbo and intake valve. The air capacitor size is between 4 and 5 times the size of the engine, so a 100cc engine would need a air capacitor between 400 and 500cc's. You can find plenty of info on Google. I searched "air capacitor for single cylinder turbo engines" and plenty of info including a paper written by the MIT department of mechanical engineering, and there are also several videos on RUclips showing people making air capacitors. Love your videos, keep up the good work
When a gentleman with missing digits says "Don't try this at home" you should probably listen. I wonder if nitro would make a 2-stroke blower move more air?
First things first. Thx 4 the effort to show how a combustions engine runs - from the inside. There are a few things i wanna mention; 1. Your engine has 127 ccm. The smallest turbo engine I know is the 750 ccm Kawasaki Turbo engine. It has therefore 5 times the pump-volume to move the wheel from the turbo than your engine has. The turbo from the Kawa starts pushing power at approx. 4000rpm. It was the smallest available turbo in this time on the market. Yours is from a car and therefore not really smaller. Do the math when the turbo get enough exhaust flow (= volume) for coming up on enough speed to give pressure for more boost. 2. The turbo is a "wind driven wheel". Yours has to function as a "waterwheel". Bc you drown it in liquid . . . . instead of let it suck gas. So, your liquid actually works against the turbowheel - as a waterbreak. 3. There is alltime an optimal gas-petrol mix. It seems to me that you - not only - drown your turbowheel in liquids . . . . . You can reduce the power output from a combustion engine with too much petrol. It' s proven! But; last but not least: Go ahead with your intensions. I expect the next "step of evolution" from the good, reliable Briggs & Stanton ; )
Well you are correct on the math, and everything else you said makes sense, the only thing you're not taking into consideration is, here I am running nitromethane, nitromethane is a completely different animal than gasoline, I promise you this thing will make boost, if you noticed the second turbo that I mounted was rhb31 oh, it's the smallest turbo that I know of, but still too big for that engine. Just to give you a small comparison between nitro and gasoline, the stoichiometric air fuel ratio for gasoline is 14.7 to 1 and power is 11 to 1, however air-fuel ratios of nitromethane can be all the way down to 0.5 to 1, that's twice as much fuel as air by volume.
Start over but next time use a 5hp Briggs engine that they use for Jr. Dragsters. I think it's Horseman products that make all the High-performance stuff for those. The reason the clear head works better is it ups the compression ratio. The stock Briggs rings are weak you get too much blow by. Total seal will make any size rings that you ask them for. The crankcase vent is also holding you back. The Nitro strips the oil off the cyl. walls and the rings will score the cyl. in no time. The rule for Alcohol is twice the jet size of gasoline. Hobby shops sell tiny drill bits and pin vices if that helps. To help stop the head gaskets from blowing out use copper coat on both sides of the gasket let it dry overnight before you install the head then use it to coat both surfaces wet upon installation then wait a few hours before you start the engine. All surfaces must be oil free and use a scotch bright pad to lightly scuff the surfaces by hand.
I like that little engine. Though as hell. No matter what you do it just keeps running. Love to see the efi work on this. It has potential. Im sure it could make a bit more hp.
You need the engine under load to spool the turbo. But the main thing isn't the new turbo, it's the gallons of fuel your dumping in lol. In a top fuel car they have boost for days coming from their supercharger, and 2 spark plugs with perfectly atomized fuel before they start dumping that amount of fuel in. If you don't go back to a larger carb or FI system, your never gonna spool that turbo. It's the right size here, compared to the other one, but if you aren't coming close to a stoich ratio with atomized gas, your not gonna be able to make the exhaust to spin it
I completely agree, I wish I could love your comment twice, I set it up this way because not everybody is good with cars, I did it in stages like this so the average person can have a visual understanding of the difference between old carburetors and the electronic fuel injection system that most cars use now. Once you watch this video, and then the next video with the fuel injection oh, it's going to become really obvious why we use the types of systems we use on cars today. For us it's common sense but for average people that don't know much about cars it's a different story
Picasso Impaler you have no idea what you’re talking about they use 1 plug per cylinder and the reason they use mechanical fuel injection is because of RULES.
The stoichiometric ratio for nitro (1.7:1) is a lot lower than gasoline (14.7:1). Meaning you don't need nearly as much air as you do for gasoline. You can burn about nine times more nitro in a cylinder than gasoline. Nitro also needs heat to get going.
+WP *Trust me as a Diesel Hot-Rodder for almost 30yrs. You won't make Boost pressure without a Load on it. Plus you should be spraying Ether in it. Liquid doesn't burn, Vapors do. Your YUGE Expansion-Chamber coming out of the engine is killing any chance of Exhaust Pressure building up and turning the Turbo.*
@Dave Micolichek *Wrong dumbass. He is drowning the Engine and is washing the cylinder oil, you idiot. An Injector Atomizes the Fuel. LOL!!! The Ether is a vapor and would never touch the oil dumbass!!! Plus ether has no petroleum in to prematurely detonate, like gasoline does. Stop guessing at shit. You are proof of Human Devolution.*
I'm thinking, the see-thru head gave you higher compression than stock head, just because a stock small engine is designed for so-so horsepower for years rather than serious power and questionable longevity.The last run, you got into a rhythm on the spray that seemed really promising. Gotta be away to mist the nitro in, rather than glops of liquid right into the combustion chamber. If it can go in like a mist...that sucker might make 15HP. Great work, sir, and I'm very interested to see where this goes!
Yes I think you're right. That makes perfect sense. Yeah for the next one I got to get through this engine. Only one more episode on this guy. I have others right behind it, next it's going to be electronic fuel injection variable timing, boost control etc, max out the horsepower and blow the connecting rod through the block, then show everybody that anything can be fixed, repair whatever breaks start the engine one last time without making a ton of power and then move on. even if the block cracks into pieces I actually have a solution to fix that not many people know of.
Looks like a hell of a fire risk all that fuel all over the place hope you got a good fire extinguisher. Good looking inside the engine running. Well done.
Interesting video. With the see through head there was a time when there wasn't much liquid in the head. I believe the motor ran best then. Maybe with the stock head you were adding too much manual fun juice?
WTF?? I wouldn't exactly recomend pouring nitro methan straight into a red hot turbo. But then again, this turbo will never get hot on that small engine.
Yeah that's going to be fun !!. I'm positive I can blow the engine up once we're able to control all of the variables. Obviously when I say blow up I mean make enough power to cause a failure.
I left a can of degreaser lying around and my brother mistook it for two stroke fuel. He later said the lawn mower was hard to start and he had to use a can of start you barsted but after it started he was amazed at how much more power it had and how easy it was to mow the lawn that day. Love to see how much you can get out of degreaser.
@ 9:33 It's like a turbo motor money shot! Love it! Thanks for doing this series. It's very entertaining as a gear head and large scale gas RC enthusiast. Currently adding a crank driven supercharger (made by RBInnovations) to my 2 stroke 30.5cc 5th scale RC Baja 5b buggy. Should be interesting. Watching these videos has got me itching to wrap that build up, get it tuned, and then let her rip. Thanks!
Hello sir, i am huge fan of your see through engine videos, it’s helps a lot to understand how engine works. I have one request for you, can you please make a video (see through) on variable valve timing .
18:50 you keep drowning the engine with fuel. Each time you keep stopping, thinking its going to die, but then it comes back to life because it got more air.
To make decent boost on a single cylinder engine, ideally you need some kind of "boost tank" between the turbo and the intake. The engine is only pulling air in 25% of the time, the rest of the time, the turbo is fighting against itself and is stalling. A boost tank allows the turbo to build up a little reservoir, so the turbo doesn't stall so much, and there is boost ready for the next intake stroke, at the same time it allows the exhaust to flow more freely, spinning the turbo better, then extra boost and fuel will make more exhaust gasses, and you'll get even more boost, etc etc.
I definitely think you need much higher RPM. The last transparent run was very good. When I was a kid, I had a few of the same Engines. All of my stock Briggs and Straton Cars and Mini Bikes ran very well at about 8k RPM, and I never even blew one up.
oh jeez, I remember my first time.. First running an open wastegate, then hey why not try a different turbo, and mount it UPSIDEDOWN and pour oil into the oil drain side. At that point, still wasn't seeing any real boost. Ahem, I recommend mounting the turbo the correct way up with a drain and a pressurized oil feed.. Try to confirm this wastegate is closed with a little pre-load tension.
Would be interesting to see just how much you can push it by installing a hotter cam and raising compression. Maybe even make a lighter rod and piston.
In top fuel we use venturi style fuel injection on cold days to start up the cars on alcohol. Maybe you can do that with nitro and play with the height of the gravity fed fuel pump for pressure. Also, both nitro and turbo need a load to work against, so try to keep the brake dyno on it. Great work love the videos and engineering.
Thank you, that's a great idea, that's exactly why this thing is a pain in the butt to start when it's cold, I didn't even think about that. What team do you work on? I know a lot of the teams.
@@WarpedYT Justin Schriefers nitro funny car. I believe we spoke last year when you interviewed me about the clutch on a fuel car. Let me know if youd like to talk further. I have a few ideas from what I learned in the nitro racing pits for your video.
@@eclipsehipsi OMG... Hey man!, I love your team, awesome people, I hope all is well, yeah man I got into a lot of trouble last year, shook stuff up big time, I'm sure you heard the apb...lol everyone was nervous, but I'm almost positive I'll be out there this year, I can't write in here but I'll explain in person what I have going on, I think it's going to help all of the teams exponentially if I can make it work.
"I ehh youz'd abouta 3 gallons of Nitro methane in 11 seconds (at .2:10 A/F) Looks like twelve hunnit horse, maybe a little rich I dunno. Aboutta gallon made it on toda test stand. Ya know. Good start" This guy is hilarious. Will sub for more lolz and progress.
Many people think the power of an engine comes from burning fuel, hence more fuel - more power. However, engines run on expanding gasses. A hot burn and a cool exhaust are what really increases the power and torque. A properly mixed stoichiometric fuel - oxygen ratios is a good start. However, here again we can do better. There is three ways to put fuel into an engine: first - as a liquid; second - as an aerosol or atomized mist; and third - as a vapor. Now remember, liquid fuel won't burn as it has no oxygen in it. This makes liquid fuel less efficient as it has to turn to vapor to burn (as does atomized fuel). In addition, liquid in the cylinder mixes with the oil making foam. You know... through ring blow by. Atomized fuel benefits the most from a blower as it increases the amount of oxygen (found in air) to correct the oxygen - fuel ratio problem caused by yet still liquid fuel. A vaporized fuel - oxygen mixture at a optimal stoichiometric ratio will destroy the engine. So, if you vaporize the fuel you may need to mix it very lean not to melt the engine. The stoichiometric balance will give the most power but the engine wasn't designed to take the force. It's cool, the engine roars like a jet plane, gets hot, vaporizes the oil in the crank (which acts as more gas on the fire), and starts pumping liquid iron through the oil ducts. Just seconds of life for even a brand new engine. No turbo charger required. Of course we used V-8s.
Can you place the (spark-)nail in a different spot on the transparent head and compare the flame propagation in slow motion? You could try and add a big pipe in the intake or exhaust (or both) between the turbo and engine, the pipe could store pressure for longer so that when the exhaust pulse reaches the turbo enough time has passed and the compressed air reaches the valve when the engine is in it's intake stroke and can use the extra air. By this logic a bigger pipe would give you more low end torque and a smaller one would give you more top end torque.
That would be REALLY interesting, as would varying the timing once he has the EFI. Do i remember correctly that on a f head you ideally want the spark over near the valves (cos that area cant be compressed so is your main combustion chamber) with timing quite advanced to allow for a long propagation distance to the cylinder?
@@mycosys I would guess that directly over the piston, or slightly towards the valve would be the best and the spark advanced to ~10 degrees, this would allow the mix to burn over the piston and not have the flame front propagate as far as it would when the ignition source is between the valves. I really hope he does this. If i think about it, having the ignition between the valves would help with low end torque while spark over piston should help with high end torque as you can see the flame front still propagating towards the piston even when the piston reaches the half of it's stroke at high RPM.
@@stefan-alinspeteanu9572 on a flathead the area above the piston is squeezed as close as possible to completely flat, at TDC virtually the entire AFM is over the valves. Every flathead ive seen has the spark over the valves, commonly over the exhaust valve . I guess the timing would vary a lot with fuel, i really dont know nitro,ethane
@@mycosys I know that actual car flathead engines have no space above the piston, but his engine does. the see-through head is completely flat and he put metal spacers between it and the block, so the distance from head to piston/block is uniform, that is why i mentioned placing the ignition source above the piston.
On the see-through head the spark nail must be there as it grounds in the metal between the valves. It is not like a spark plug which has its ground is part of the body and is at the same distance wherever you put it.
The fuel isn’t atomizing enough, to get the gain of the nitro mix fuel. It should yield a higher amount hp. what was it with out the turbo and on the same full mix?
It'll may generate more boost when the compressor scroll is acting like a belt driven supercharger. I think there is to little exhaust gases to spool up the turbo enough. And also as others said before you run too rich. Try to make a fuel pump with a spray nozzle to atomize the fuel a little jit better so it gets a better mixture with the air.
So from what I witnessed; adding the fuel to the turbo compressor is not just slowing down the turbo but drowning the engine too. Also the turbo size plays a role, the smaller turbo for a smaller engine will be better for it. Think of it this way, that small single cyl engine can only produce X exhaust, well if you have a giant turbo it will take more time to spool if it spools at all vs the smaller turbo. But you really have to nail your "injection" timing. With the see-through head, you had your fuel mix pretty good so it could actually rev higher. It has potential. As for your oil; that's from the crank shaft whipping air into it. I think you will now need a oil pump, lines, and filter to make this little engine run the best it can plus fuel injection.
Warped Perception, so we go from literally hosing the thing down with meth to doing a fuel injection system that I question you have the ability to tune. How about putting the STOCK carb in a draw through configuration on the engine ( that means in front of the turbo) THEN go from IDLE and work your way up in jetting sizes until you get a GOOD AIR FUEL RATIO UNDER LOAD. YOU CAN DRILL THE MAIN JET FOR INCREASED FUEL AS A HACK. Also for the sake of your operation get a WIDEBAND and understand AIR FUEL RATIO.
Lol... Thanks for the feedback. I don't want to give myself too much credit but, apparently I'm doing a really good job at what I'm doing. My whole idea when writing these episodes is the kind of act like I don't know what I'm doing, I'm not even joking, feedback like yours really tells me I'm doing a good job, I always thought it wasn't believable but I love it. As a matter of fact yes I do have a lot of tuning experience, I also have a lot of experience with wideband O2 sensors, tuning by AFR and I not only have an engine management system that I'm going to adapt to this engine and others I also have a wideband O2 feedback loop that I'm going to tie into with the engine management system. On the flip side just think about if you watch this video and I started out and said hey I'm going to put a turbo on his engine and get it running great Tama and that's all I show you, I show you the parts show you the build and runs fantastic and then end the video, where would be the entertainment in that? That's my filmmaker point of view, I want to have fun while learning something new. Sincerely thanks for the feedback it tells me I'm on the right track with the way I write these and put these together, I brought this show to RUclips from Discovery so I was a little nervous at first. Thanks again and thanks for watching
What is nitromethane exactly?? And what allows it to turbo boost stuff?
Good job bro
There is another turbine on the turbo that is on the exhaust side and the turbo gets spun by the exhaust fumes rushing out the engine and there for spinning the turbine at the front that is sucking in more air into the engine. And with more air you need more fuel and more fuel and air=more power.
Nitro Meghan e85 pump gas 93 or jet fuel has a higher octane rating that prevents the engine from detonation or pinging that is like tiny tnt bombs in your engine. That’s no good and will break your internals let alone give you less performance. A clean engine creates a fireball that pushes the piston. Down turning it into torque than horsepower allows you to add more timing and boost that nets you more power
Wow dude
Nitromethane is just a different type or fuel, you can turbo charge an engine with any fuel, im not sure why hes using Nitromethane but its really irrelevant as far as you should be concerned. It sounds like you dont know much about engines but thats okay!! Do some research and learn more and you might find yourself like me; addicted to cars and passionate about building engines
In this episode watch as I spray nitro methane all over everything
😂😂😂..lol. yes !
Big fireball
Anyone bring marshmallow?
A large part of me was hoping this would end with loud sirens from several firetrucks.
Dude, your Moms gunna be so pissed lmao
I’m just trying to help not being a d%#! but you are shooting way to much fuel so you are slowing the engine so the engine can not build rpm and boost, if you look on the run that you got the 7400 rpm that’s when you had the the closest mix that’s why the rpm went up about the boost the best way to get boost is to put rpms and then put some load and you will see boost! I want to see this thing working and building boost just trying to help!!
im pretty sure unless you get it warm or really really airrate nitro methane its like diesel and wont catch on fire too easily.
Mate the turbo is fine, you need a 28mm pitbike carb in front of the turbo, an old fuel pump to supply oil pressure to the turbo so it can actually spin, and mix 10% nitro with normal fuel.
Then she'll boost.
Drowning tho whole thing in liquid aint efficient.
This.
You need oil pressure if you want to make boost
@@JefeInquisidorGOW No you don't. The oil pressure is for lubricating the turbo, not actually making boost. But yeah, without it the turbos aren't gonna last very long
In front of a 50cc cyl 4-stroke? Nope! Even in front of a 70cc 2-stroke that's gonna be hard to get a fine mist out off. Pro GP teams where doing 34-36mm on 125cc bikes pushed to their absolute limit. Yeah the turbo adds some more flow, but at 2 psi that's only 15%, so a MAX 21mm carb and that should be sufficient to even do 7 psi on a 50cc, with ease! Jetting is the name of the game here and likely boring out the feed "tube" to max capacity (as i don't think hi've done that yet, should have been done at the ethanol conversion), not "bigger is better" US approach
@@VikingRul3s Cool sounds good, any carb you like, carb size is kind of irrelevant here, you just need one. The turbo also needs oil "pressure" to act as bearings so its spins. Jetting will just be a bit of trial and error, I ran my 135cc lawn mower for years with a 28mm pitbike carb and it was fine, people are riding 125's right now somewhere with 28mm carbs, but i think you probably should start with a smaller carb and play from there.
Btw that motor doesn't look like a 50cc, more like a 150cc on video.
@@madazz01 Yeah, that's what i meant with "lubricating the turbo" in the comment above. I just dumb it down a bit so none-gear heads can understand it 😊
28mm on a 135cc seems way better! Carbs can actually get to big, if you throw a too big on, the misting from the jet is gonna be weak and inefficient, so loss of power. But yeah, it's not like a 28mm on 50cc will complete kill it, it'll still run, though the mixture may be quite lean.
I could be wrong about the engine size, for sure!!! It's just a guess, I just assume it's 50cc because of the rated bhp, 2,5-3 is the smallest mover engines here, usually around 50cc. But i'm from EU, not sure mover engines are similar in USA 😊
Ep3: this thing is dangerous, it will blow the engine apart, I am taking all the precautions
Ep 6: badAss manual nitro spraying
I agree with you
Was waiting for a fire haha
who cares it’s a hell of a lot of fun to watch and to do this kind of stuff.
Yea dude I hope you are prepared for the hospital run when this thing blows. I couldn’t quit watching. You were using way too much fuel.
@@kierenalvarez the loose spark plug wire connector on see thru head .. can't believe the whole thing didn't go up in flames, LOL!!!
"I'm just gonna spray the nitro-methane directly into the turbo..."
Mad Max: Fury Road style!!! YEAH!!!!
I wish I could hit the like button 10 times on this comment. At least someone knows how to have fun
Mad max would have "baby birded" that nitro
Don’t talk about proper mixture while using a pesticide sprayer as a carburetor. SMH 🤦♂️
Lmaoo
I was thinking maybe he can us a paint gun on a low air setting to get a consistent stream maybe?
Its moe of like a direct fuel injection system
Exactly or about consumption......hahahaha...all the freaking thing is drained...its more nitrous cooled then fueled...
@@MAGGOT_VOMIT,
It refuses to build pressure because the American engine and the German turbo hate each others guts. Shouldn't he supercharge it instead?
Yeah you used 48oz of nitro in 2 minutes but half of it is on the floor
And When you're fuel mixture is literally coming out of your exhaust pipe
More than 1/2
And in the oil
@@dadigitechmanjunior I can't believe that it didn't blow up! All that raw fule next to an open exhaust and an overheated engine. Where is the fire ext?
*His concept is wrong. You can't build boost pressure without a load on it. Plus liquid doesn't burn, Vapors do. He should be shooting Ether in it, not drowning it.*
Biggest relief ever when you show that new turbo and Im like NOOOOOO I DON'T WANT TO WAIT FOR NEW EP. Then I notice the video is only half way through and realize we're gonna see it run right now!
Lol... Thank you
@@WarpedYT what was that 2nd turbo? I kinda wanna get it and would like to know the name/where to get it.
Consider adding an oil pump for the turbo. Since it's most likely not ball bearing it needs oil pressure to "float" in the oil and spin freely like its supposed to. Also, consider a twin cylinder so the turbo isn't free spinning between exhaust strokes. This will help to maintain and build boost.
For inspiration or ideas, the Ruckus Scooter community has successfully turbocharged several of those engines and if memory serves they're 125 or 150cc engines.
The ruckus is actually a 49cc in stock form, though most people do swap 125's and 150's on them.
how can it be better if he adds an oil pump for the turbo? since it had lube then if its in engine oil it wont make a difference? sorry if im mistaking.
MixaL1s6804
The way a journal bearing works, it needs a proper oil film to float and reduce friction. This usually requires flow and pressure. But in this application, eh probably negligible
@@phantom240 Maybe... but when the oil starts bubbling out of the feed port looking like silver paint, I'm betting whatever bearing WAS in there, ISN'T any more.
@@kleetus92 you get it.
MixalL1s6804: phantom240 said it well enough, but it does matter, a lot. The center of that wheel should be spinning at close to 100k-200k rpm and will be completely destroyed without "floating" in the oil. If you really want to know what's going on I emplore you to Google how bearings work in an engine or turbo. There's just too much information to answer the why in detail on here. But to address the oil in the crank case, it really should be cycled and filtered to pull that nitro and water out because its hurting performance with the way it is now.
45 oz.? You were spraying nitro everywhere bro
I've never seen more ambition toward a absolutely futile cause in my life...Five stars!
Lol... Well said !
I have one of those 3 hp Briggs engines(from 1979), the cam holds the intake valve open for most of the compression stroke to make the engine easier to start, if you were to shave the intake valve stem, or the the side of the cam lobe that is enlarged you would probably be able to make a lot more power
You've got a thumbs UP from me! Great job--love the setup! Looking forward to the next episode!
I was just talkin about you the other day, I had a great idea, I was thinking about sending you one of my see through rotary engines.
THANK YOU, you as well, keep up the good work, don't even change anything you're doing because right now you're killing it.
I'd LOVE to test one of your see through rotary engines! That would be amazing! By the way, the production quality of your videos is absolutely amazing, which makes them very enjoyable to watch! Thanks again for all the time and effort you invest in the videos.
@@ProjectFarm thank you man !!. I am trying to get one to you soon.
Hello peoject farm!
Lol most accurate fuel consumption math I've ever seen. 44oz.....28 of witch ended up on/around the surrounding floor not burned.
Great video for the curious!
I wish I could love your comment twice, very well stated
that was additional cooling)))))),
Gotta love when someone who has no idea what they're doing tries something stupid.
so the last 22 minutes of my life.
How can he calculate the fuel consumption when most of the fuel goes everywhere but in the engine? His sprayer doesn't even vaporize the fuel.
@Johnny Steffy It's not "trial and error" when you throw fuel everywhere then say "I used X amount of fuel". He has no idea how much fuel went in the engine. You're a moron, worse, you're a lesson... Get it? I surely doubt it...
@Dave Micolichek You didn't even watch the video.
You said it yourself "inside". He's spraying a lot of the fuel "outside" where the fuel is wasted completely and has no effects on the performance of the engine. That's what We are talking about dumbass and yet you run your mouth like a troll.
Go ahead and watch the video again and you'll see how much of a moron you really are.
If you are smart and a little bit humble, your next message should be apologetic. Then I'll recant my judgement upon you. Or stay stupid and laugh.
@Dave Micolichek My statement still stands. The word wasn't right but it doesn't make my statement wrong. It's just in the after note.
You're just a troll, you can't even spell right and your syntax is terrible. You accuse SOMEONE (not "some one") of "talking smack" yet it's just a diversion to put them on the defensive to keep them from noticing you're doing the same exact thing.
If you have any pride whatsoever you should feel pretty stupid to be schooled by someone who started to learn English in their 20s as a second language.
But I think you're deluded by your sense of superiority. Which is common to Morons (i.e. someone with the intellect of a 9 to 12 years old, as an obsolete medical term yet very adequate to describe you). Hell, are you at that age? Sorry, you didn't fool me buddy.
Getting the proper mixture as well as fuel atomizaton should be an enormous help. Looking forward to seeing it.
As you probably know, most turbos wont spool till you load the engine. It should also do a lot better if you get a carb off a bigger engine, say a 420cc and mount it in front of the turbo for a pull thru design.
There was always load on the engine here except for a couple of runs, but I did keep a small load at all times on this engine except for 2 takes.
@@WarpedYT I see now, changing the angle of the dyno brake thru me off some how.
a carb will never work, spinning the air and fuel takes it out of the air and back into liquid droplets too big to burn properly.
Most engines won't spool a turbo unless they're under load. The turbo can spool regardless of whether on not there is any load, it just needs pressure from the exhaust.
I hate you for this lol. It was annoying watching you just spray and spray in the turbo
That "mechanical fuel injection" was pure comedy! I have laughed like that in AWHILE! Thank you for that bro you just made my day
Same here, I'm glad at least somebody got it, I think you're the first out of 200,000 people. When I did that I was laughing pretty hard, when I watched it I was laughing my a** off. It was a last-minute idea but I knew it was going to be funny and it actually worked, kind of. I always go with the flow but it did give people a good example carburetor vs. Fuel injection, especially once it's compared with the next episode where I do proper fuel injection.
Even the one part where I spray the whole turbo down before I start it, I did that on purpose but almost nobody who watched it got it.
@@WarpedYT I got it right away and I was ctfu the whole time! Thanks again. I wish more ppl had the same sense of humor!? Great stuff man, keep it up!
More like "manual injection"
@@toddsimone7182 hahahahaha... that's how I conceived my children by " manual injection" very reliable system
You're drowning the engine big time! No wonder it won't spool up and make power
That's the only way it will stay running, it's nitromethane, it needs a lot more fuel compared to gas.
an engine will need nearly 5 times as much nitro vs gasoline to run anywhere near stoich, which allows an engine to burn a ton more fuel which = power. nitro has it's own oxygen atom
You can see it was too rich with the clear head as it wasn't firing half the time......
@@jody6183 exactly
@@jody6183 Are you kidding me?? It's a 4-stroke engine..
My favourite run was the run u liked the most to! The sound was awesome! It reminded me of when i used to moe my lawn lol cause i rigged a shoe lace straight to the throttle so i could over ride the automatic govoner so i could have fun reving it as i mowed the lawn!
Literally dumping fuel everywhere
“Ya this will work” 😂
Use a multi piston engine (like a 2 piston) if you want to spool even the tiniest turbo. Having oil pressure on the journal bearing actually helps it spool to the designed RPM as well FYI (takes that small amt of play away you feel when moving it by hand.) Retarding the timing helps to spool any turbo as well.
This video would have been REALLY COOL if you were able to spool up 10 - 20 psi. Maybe get 1 actual fuel injector and rig it to pulse like it normally operates. That will give you a great mist pattern for the most complete burn.
I am one of the silly people that have spent thousands on turbo charging a single cylinder (my raptor 700). You learn multiple cylinders is key to dependable boost and turbo reliability. Turbos don't like the sudden exhaust pulse every 720* of crank rotation
Spray fuel into the exhaust before the turbine.
Also 2 stroke engines won't use the boost much. The exhaust valve is open when boost should be building in a 4 stroke engine.
@@dylanhart4930 A Raptor 700 is a four stroke.
@@dizzytheokapi8114 well, that's fine. But this video is about a 2 stroke. That is what I'm speaking about.
@@dylanhart4930 No, no this video is not about a 2 stroke.
2 psi out of a 3hp engine and 7.2hp is really good that’s like 150% efficiency with the addition of a turbo
wtf?
not actually efficiency... just more power. Doesn't mean its actually making better use of the air and fuel
SIMPLE HUMAN bruh lmao you dumb
Julian Saiz it's literally impossible for an engine to reach 100% efficiency
Engine effenciety is like how much heat you can get of buring fuel Effenciety for this engine it's like a i dont know maybe 40%... of all burned fuel I just mean you can't say that making more power it's making it more efficient becouse you adding boost pressure and more fuel to the engine. Effenciety still is on the same level
It's so cool to see the things you do every video you make makes our jaw drops more and more like in a cartoon , thank you for everything you do.
Thank you, I'm definitely going to try and pump out more videos big and small on this channel.
It's great to have the See-Through cylinder head so you can see what's going on in terms of combustion. The right mixture was the key to good operation. Unfortunately, the turbo was lacking a proper oil line and with all that extra metal that came out with the oil, I wonder if a proper synthetic oil was used. Also, seeing as how you're increasing loads and adding on the turbo function, I wonder if you need a proper oil circulation system complete with a filter. Obviously a little overboard but that would keep contaminants out of the crankcase.
Not to be insulting but he has no idea what hes doing does he lol. You dont just spritse fuel at a turbo. You need a fuel management unit of some kind or a fuel regulator that turns boost or vacuum pressure into increased fuel. My suggestion would be get a carb with like the smallest low jet possible, and basically use as little fuel as possible that still makes it barely run. Then fiddle with an FMU that steps up fuel pressure with an adjustable wastegate set to like 3psi. Looks to me my guess is its way too rich, and that turbo isnt getting steady exhaust flow to make boost or you have nothing controlling the wastegate which is what it looked like. Thats why i think i saw bubbling (fuel?) From the wastegate when u took the pipe off.
I think he had to many fathers hit him in the head for doing things he shouldn't have been doing with there underage children. And meth to....
Liam you don’t know how carburetors work do you. You can’t increase fuel pressure to increase flow in a carb. It’s only using the Venturi to draw the fuel from the float bowl. If you get too high of pressure you’ll end up just pushing past the needle and seat attached to the float.
He should really just put the carb before the turbo in a drawthrough setup. Tune the jets from there and be done.
@@allthathpandnotire3019 yeah sorry lol i had fuel injection on the mind which is what most people do. And idk im not 100 percent tuned into what small engine carbs can take, lot of car guys use blow through setups
@@allthathpandnotire3019 i forgot theres no fuelpump
Laim... that poor thing was drowning in fuel lmao it was running in low to mid rpm... it's capable of doing better than 4200 RPM... could hit 10hp+ @ 7000k+ lmao... a hit of starter fluid would of been cool lol
When you're 3hp motor needs efi
I don't think EFI would work with nitro methane. The best option would be to buy a methonal injection kit and use that as a forced metered orifice. That will work better than the spray bottle. The EFI would not have a strong enough driver to run a upgraded fuel injector.
@@nicolalio4633 It would probably work just fine I think it's just funny as hell putting an efi system on a 3hp engine
@@ATLASGAMINGApallo it's not a bad idea. i have a super chargerg 6hp. I have had to place a spark box in place to advance the spark by 50°.
I think it needs someone who knows what they are doing :)))))))
Your*
Poor turbo! You need oil pressure feed to turbo!
It wouldn't be spinning fast enough or running hot enouggt for this to be an issue. The bearings had a lube they were fine.
Rdizz Automotive It would be interesting to see if it would make more boost with pressure fed oil to help the thrust bearing reduce drag.
Or see a tiny ball bearing turbo. That would be the shit for a motor like this running at a relatively low RPM with a small displacement.
@@GarageSupra Is that why it was puking what looked like silver paint back out of the feed port?! Lol... yeah... totally fine.
@@kleetus92 the turbo oil feed wasn't coming from the engine. Watch the video before commenting.
I like how you removed your middle finger to clear the disk on the back of your phone.
Watching this channel is like watching NASCAR: I’m just waiting for the carnage.
"Is the engine fuel efficient!? Of course it is!! This old girl nearly gets 5 gallons to the mile!"
Really appreciate you putting all this content into one video.
Omg dude please someone take that spray bottle away from him!!!
i musta clicked on the wrong link for the SEE thru engine
The first 5 episodes had a see through head on it but it broke and he wanted a head that could take a beating so he put the original head back on it
Ah thanks man
*throws engine into a pool of gasoline*
“ Dur I wonder why it’s not running right “
One of the most dangerous things I've ever seen, GREAT, more more!
Thank you, best comment ever...LOVE IT !
"My goal is to make this thing come apart, blow it up" as he stands right next to it sprayin her down with nitro from a pump sprayer.... This is either the luckiest guy in world or there is a god and he loves stupid people. Careful what you wish for.
This guy literally pours tons of fuel into the engine without vaporizing it in any way and wonders why it´s not running very well... Appreciate all the work you put in your videos but this is just not the right way to do it.
Ha!! yeah it was fun I thought it was pretty Kamikaze and very interesting to see if they would actually run and make power just pouring it in there like that. But I mainly did it for 3 reasons, to have fun, to see if it would actually work and make power and boost oh, and to give people who know absolutely nothing about cars a good comparison between this episode where I'm just pouring it or spraying it into the intake system, and the next episode where I use an electronic fuel injection system, a similar structure to what everybody's car uses, this is going to give everybody who is not super knowledgeable about cars and example I've why modern cars use fuel injection and engine management compared to the old carburetor cars or even worse that really really old carbureted cars. That's why I did it. Thanks for the feedback and thanks for the kind words, I'm glad you enjoyed it
@@WarpedYT I once poured gunpowder into a 2 stroke weedwhacker engine and the piston kissed the crankshaft..and that on 2 stroke Oo what would happen with a 4 stroke....U HAVE TO DOOO ITTT >3...u could run it on gunpowder if i recall correctly...just make a bowl tip into the carburator with a string
@@WarpedYT Thanks for the detailed answer! I´m really looking forward to the next video then! Love your experimental approaches every time!
@@maximilianth thank you !!!
@@bsod4144 ooohhh, that's a great idea, sounds very fun.
Leaf Blower instead of turbo. And safety gear. That garden sprayer is a firebomb in your hand.
Yes I am actually behind a blast shield.
It's a frickin' miracle that you are still alive
Usually running lean gets you high rpm and power right before it starves the engine of fuel and overheats. Running rich really bogs it down as we are seeing. But props for the determination that was awesome how you kept saying "I'm gonna give it another run" 👍👍👍
Hell yeah bro! Been waiting for this. Excellent job. When you were shooting the fuel into the turbo intake, I was literally screaming at my TV telling you to do it after the turbo. I guess you heard me cause then you did it, lol! Next episode is going to be even better! Thank you!!
😁😁😁🤩. Yeah after the turbo makes sense. I wanted to focus on the difference so people can relate to a few different things. Old carbureted cars, first type of turbo draw through systems, and last but not least the most modern fuel injection system, I like to set up those kind of scenarios so people who don't know cars really well can still understand and relate. Thanks I'm glad I finally got this one done, had a really tough 2018 but I'm good now, I'll be bringing a lot of stuff to RUclips this year oh, I'm trying at least once or twice a week.
Maybe try a little dry shot of nitrous at the turbo. I watch the Cletus McFarland channel and it is hilarious when those guys blow up an engine by doing that.
i was cringing at the "mechanical fuel injection" spraying nitro all over the hot turbo of a running engine.. im honestly surprised it didnt catch on fire. but i think the biggest issue you're having with making boost is because you don't have a pressurized oil system for the turbo. they use journal bearings and if you don't have pressurized oil going through them theres going to be a huge amount of friction in the bearings preventing it from spooling. they don't have ball bearings it's literally a steel shaft that goes through a bronze tube essentially. it needs pressurized oil to be lubricated, just pouring some oil in won't work, even for a short amount of time. you can make an external oiling system with an oil tank and a pump completely separate from the engine, and that would probably make a huge difference on how much the turbo spools.
I was hoping it caught on fire, can you imagine how cool that would have look the engine running with the see-through head while on fire in slow motion!!. I did find out later on that the top mounting hole actually goes through into the compressor housing oh, so it was leaking all of the boost out of that little bolt-hole. If you look back at the episode and look at the part where I'm spraying the nitromethane engine the turbo oh, you can see it coming out of the hole. Next time I'll put a bolt in that hole and I guarantee you it's going to make a lot of boost
@Dave Micolichek exactly, that was the problem, after I saw that in the video I wanted to go back and plug that hole and give it another run, but without the camera set up and running I don't even want to attempt it, with my luck it'll make 10 pounds of boost and blow apart without any cameras rolling..lol. I also found it pretty entertaining how everybody on this video things that I have no idea what I'm doing..lol. I love it . it will definitely need way last nitromethane is that bolt hole is plugged, half of it was coming right back out maybe even more than half, for the next episode I'm going to make that my very first run with the bolt hole plugged. Thanks for the feedback
Life OD debunked the fact you need a pressurized oil system
pushing all that raw nitro past the rings into the crank case...
Nice to see a RUclipsr that has good slow-mo video quality!
Thank you. And I give other channels credit if they give me an idea, 😁
Single cylinder turbo engines run best with what's called an air capacitor on the intake side between the turbo and intake valve. The air capacitor size is between 4 and 5 times the size of the engine, so a 100cc engine would need a air capacitor between 400 and 500cc's. You can find plenty of info on Google. I searched "air capacitor for single cylinder turbo engines" and plenty of info including a paper written by the MIT department of mechanical engineering, and there are also several videos on RUclips showing people making air capacitors. Love your videos, keep up the good work
When a gentleman with missing digits says "Don't try this at home" you should probably listen. I wonder if nitro would make a 2-stroke blower move more air?
You're drowning the engine with fuel, you should put something along the lines of a carburetor, and if you're using nitro, just bore the jets up a bit
Fuel mixture is way to ritch lean it out with a proper carb and it will pull
He could run a mikuni and jet it up more that was what I meant not the factory brigs carb spraying in fuel unmetered is drowning that motor
All that freaking work, Changing this an changing that trying this an trying that an the mans clothes still clean. Good job.
I've learned over the years, I've ruining all of my clothes I have kind of adopted to working and still staying sort of clean... Glad you noticed!
First things first. Thx 4 the effort to show how a combustions engine runs - from the inside.
There are a few things i wanna mention;
1. Your engine has 127 ccm. The smallest turbo engine I know is the 750 ccm Kawasaki Turbo engine. It has therefore 5 times the pump-volume to move the wheel from the turbo than your engine has. The turbo from the Kawa starts pushing power at approx. 4000rpm. It was the smallest available turbo in this time on the market. Yours is from a car and therefore not really smaller. Do the math when the turbo get enough exhaust flow (= volume) for coming up on enough speed to give pressure for more boost.
2. The turbo is a "wind driven wheel". Yours has to function as a "waterwheel". Bc you drown it in liquid . . . . instead of let it
suck gas. So, your liquid actually works against the turbowheel - as a waterbreak.
3. There is alltime an optimal gas-petrol mix. It seems to me that you - not only - drown your turbowheel in liquids . . . . .
You can reduce the power output from a combustion engine with too much petrol. It' s proven!
But; last but not least: Go ahead with your intensions. I expect the next "step of evolution" from the good, reliable Briggs & Stanton ; )
Well you are correct on the math, and everything else you said makes sense, the only thing you're not taking into consideration is, here I am running nitromethane, nitromethane is a completely different animal than gasoline, I promise you this thing will make boost, if you noticed the second turbo that I mounted was rhb31 oh, it's the smallest turbo that I know of, but still too big for that engine. Just to give you a small comparison between nitro and gasoline, the stoichiometric air fuel ratio for gasoline is 14.7 to 1 and power is 11 to 1, however air-fuel ratios of nitromethane can be all the way down to 0.5 to 1, that's twice as much fuel as air by volume.
This engine will work better than my 2.4 Jeep Patriot
Put it in a old manual car.
Try lpg gas,, you might be able to regulate the right amount simply by using the right injector size nozzle,
You can increase gas volume by a valve.
How about using a 10hp briggs so it can take to the turbo better?
No one makes more power than me
Start over but next time use a 5hp Briggs engine that they use for Jr. Dragsters. I think it's Horseman products that make all the High-performance stuff for those. The reason the clear head works better is it ups the compression ratio. The stock Briggs rings are weak you get too much blow by. Total seal will make any size rings that you ask them for. The crankcase vent is also holding you back. The Nitro strips the oil off the cyl. walls and the rings will score the cyl. in no time. The rule for Alcohol is twice the jet size of gasoline. Hobby shops sell tiny drill bits and pin vices if that helps. To help stop the head gaskets from blowing out use copper coat on both sides of the gasket let it dry overnight before you install the head then use it to coat both surfaces wet upon installation then wait a few hours before you start the engine. All surfaces must be oil free and use a scotch bright pad to lightly scuff the surfaces by hand.
I like that little engine. Though as hell. No matter what you do it just keeps running.
Love to see the efi work on this. It has potential. Im sure it could make a bit more hp.
“Let’s start by turning the valve a little” opens it all the way
I think it would make even more power with one of those 6” Honda mufflers like you see on the back of a civic
A pass through can style muffler ?
Ya that should double the horse power forget using the turbo
You need the engine under load to spool the turbo. But the main thing isn't the new turbo, it's the gallons of fuel your dumping in lol. In a top fuel car they have boost for days coming from their supercharger, and 2 spark plugs with perfectly atomized fuel before they start dumping that amount of fuel in. If you don't go back to a larger carb or FI system, your never gonna spool that turbo. It's the right size here, compared to the other one, but if you aren't coming close to a stoich ratio with atomized gas, your not gonna be able to make the exhaust to spin it
I completely agree, I wish I could love your comment twice, I set it up this way because not everybody is good with cars, I did it in stages like this so the average person can have a visual understanding of the difference between old carburetors and the electronic fuel injection system that most cars use now. Once you watch this video, and then the next video with the fuel injection oh, it's going to become really obvious why we use the types of systems we use on cars today. For us it's common sense but for average people that don't know much about cars it's a different story
@@WarpedYT Fuel injection became commonplace to keep then-new catalytic converters from fouling. In other words government emissions control.
Picasso Impaler you have no idea what you’re talking about they use 1 plug per cylinder and the reason they use mechanical fuel injection is because of RULES.
Top fuel dragsters absolutely have 2 plugs per cylinder, as well as two magnetos.
The stoichiometric ratio for nitro (1.7:1) is a lot lower than gasoline (14.7:1). Meaning you don't need nearly as much air as you do for gasoline. You can burn about nine times more nitro in a cylinder than gasoline. Nitro also needs heat to get going.
+WP *Trust me as a Diesel Hot-Rodder for almost 30yrs. You won't make Boost pressure without a Load on it. Plus you should be spraying Ether in it. Liquid doesn't burn, Vapors do. Your YUGE Expansion-Chamber coming out of the engine is killing any chance of Exhaust Pressure building up and turning the Turbo.*
@Dave Micolichek *Wrong dumbass. He is drowning the Engine and is washing the cylinder oil, you idiot. An Injector Atomizes the Fuel. LOL!!! The Ether is a vapor and would never touch the oil dumbass!!! Plus ether has no petroleum in to prematurely detonate, like gasoline does. Stop guessing at shit. You are proof of Human Devolution.*
That flathead is too tough lol, built really good
I'm thinking, the see-thru head gave you higher compression than stock head, just because a stock small engine is designed for so-so horsepower for years rather than serious power and questionable longevity.The last run, you got into a rhythm on the spray that seemed really promising.
Gotta be away to mist the nitro in, rather than glops of liquid right into the combustion chamber. If it can go in like a mist...that sucker might make 15HP. Great work, sir, and I'm very interested to see where this goes!
Yes I think you're right. That makes perfect sense. Yeah for the next one I got to get through this engine. Only one more episode on this guy. I have others right behind it, next it's going to be electronic fuel injection variable timing, boost control etc, max out the horsepower and blow the connecting rod through the block, then show everybody that anything can be fixed, repair whatever breaks start the engine one last time without making a ton of power and then move on. even if the block cracks into pieces I actually have a solution to fix that not many people know of.
@@WarpedYT 😂 funny and educational, rare hybird
I'm not trying to freak you out but I think you are missing a finger man
@Not Hitler new to the channel... Also curious.
Ive seen some vids but never actually noticed the finger :D @@troyguinn303
🖕
@@scrapenbass493yea I think that's the one
Playing around with his fingers that close to a turbo it's no wonder he's missing one
This is very interesting...
the 45 ounces of nitromethane used isn't strictly true consumption as more was wasted than was burned!!, Love these vids! Keep em coming :)
Looks like a hell of a fire risk all that fuel all over the place hope you got a good fire extinguisher. Good looking inside the engine running. Well done.
Interesting video. With the see through head there was a time when there wasn't much liquid in the head. I believe the motor ran best then. Maybe with the stock head you were adding too much manual fun juice?
WTF?? I wouldn't exactly recomend pouring nitro methan straight into a red hot turbo. But then again, this turbo will never get hot on that small engine.
Hans Gustav Solberg nothing is red hot on the cold side
Yaaay, electronic fuel injection...... Now your talkin my language!
Yeah that's going to be fun !!. I'm positive I can blow the engine up once we're able to control all of the variables. Obviously when I say blow up I mean make enough power to cause a failure.
I left a can of degreaser lying around and my brother mistook it for two stroke fuel. He later said the lawn mower was hard to start and he had to use a can of start you barsted but after it started he was amazed at how much more power it had and how easy it was to mow the lawn that day. Love to see how much you can get out of degreaser.
@ 9:33 It's like a turbo motor money shot! Love it! Thanks for doing this series. It's very entertaining as a gear head and large scale gas RC enthusiast. Currently adding a crank driven supercharger (made by RBInnovations) to my 2 stroke 30.5cc 5th scale RC Baja 5b buggy. Should be interesting. Watching these videos has got me itching to wrap that build up, get it tuned, and then let her rip. Thanks!
Hello sir, i am huge fan of your see through engine videos, it’s helps a lot to understand how engine works.
I have one request for you, can you please make a video (see through) on variable valve timing .
18:50 you keep drowning the engine with fuel. Each time you keep stopping, thinking its going to die, but then it comes back to life because it got more air.
Your voice/accent sounds like Norm McDonald of SNL fame.
Can’t wait to see the EFI and what the engine is really capable of.
To make decent boost on a single cylinder engine, ideally you need some kind of "boost tank" between the turbo and the intake. The engine is only pulling air in 25% of the time, the rest of the time, the turbo is fighting against itself and is stalling. A boost tank allows the turbo to build up a little reservoir, so the turbo doesn't stall so much, and there is boost ready for the next intake stroke, at the same time it allows the exhaust to flow more freely, spinning the turbo better, then extra boost and fuel will make more exhaust gasses, and you'll get even more boost, etc etc.
You should try a mikuni carb I have a 26mm on my 5hp briggs it makes around 8.5hp runs mint and it took the top speed of my go kart from 41 to 55mph
Try running it with an air compressor and some sort of pressure regulator from a distance.
I can hardly wait to see the result.
I definitely think you need much higher RPM. The last transparent run was very good. When I was a kid, I had a few of the same Engines. All of my stock Briggs and Straton Cars and Mini Bikes ran very well at about 8k RPM, and I never even blew one up.
That's kind of crazy, because the Briggs & Stratton guys told me that above 7000 they run the risk of throwing a rod, and naturally valve float.
So just how much nitro have you been inhaling? Gotten any headaches? Your heart pounding?
You must be close the waste gate than the turbo generate more boost
Waste gate.
Sorry
Im from Germany
Seriously I saw that and was like no one checked to see how a turbo works 🧐
oh jeez, I remember my first time.. First running an open wastegate, then hey why not try a different turbo, and mount it UPSIDEDOWN and pour oil into the oil drain side. At that point, still wasn't seeing any real boost. Ahem, I recommend mounting the turbo the correct way up with a drain and a pressurized oil feed.. Try to confirm this wastegate is closed with a little pre-load tension.
Would be interesting to see just how much you can push it by installing a hotter cam and raising compression. Maybe even make a lighter rod and piston.
Next level stuff. Definitely need one for my ho cart.
In top fuel we use venturi style fuel injection on cold days to start up the cars on alcohol. Maybe you can do that with nitro and play with the height of the gravity fed fuel pump for pressure. Also, both nitro and turbo need a load to work against, so try to keep the brake dyno on it. Great work love the videos and engineering.
Thank you, that's a great idea, that's exactly why this thing is a pain in the butt to start when it's cold, I didn't even think about that. What team do you work on? I know a lot of the teams.
@@WarpedYT Justin Schriefers nitro funny car. I believe we spoke last year when you interviewed me about the clutch on a fuel car. Let me know if youd like to talk further. I have a few ideas from what I learned in the nitro racing pits for your video.
@@eclipsehipsi OMG... Hey man!, I love your team, awesome people, I hope all is well, yeah man I got into a lot of trouble last year, shook stuff up big time, I'm sure you heard the apb...lol everyone was nervous, but I'm almost positive I'll be out there this year, I can't write in here but I'll explain in person what I have going on, I think it's going to help all of the teams exponentially if I can make it work.
Wow really amazing slomo footage! I really enjoyed that episode, keep up the great work! Just one question, which slomo camera are you using?
We use a variety of high speed cameras, more important than the camera is filming technique.
I'm being overcome with fumes just watching this. Someone open a window!!
No surprise how much fuel it used when 70% of the fuel your spraying is missing
"I ehh youz'd abouta 3 gallons of Nitro methane in 11 seconds (at .2:10 A/F) Looks like twelve hunnit horse, maybe a little rich I dunno.
Aboutta gallon made it on toda test stand. Ya know.
Good start"
This guy is hilarious.
Will sub for more lolz and progress.
Many people think the power of an engine comes from burning fuel, hence more fuel - more power. However, engines run on expanding gasses. A hot burn and a cool exhaust are what really increases the power and torque. A properly mixed stoichiometric fuel - oxygen ratios is a good start. However, here again we can do better. There is three ways to put fuel into an engine: first - as a liquid; second - as an aerosol or atomized mist; and third - as a vapor. Now remember, liquid fuel won't burn as it has no oxygen in it. This makes liquid fuel less efficient as it has to turn to vapor to burn (as does atomized fuel). In addition, liquid in the cylinder mixes with the oil making foam. You know... through ring blow by. Atomized fuel benefits the most from a blower as it increases the amount of oxygen (found in air) to correct the oxygen - fuel ratio problem caused by yet still liquid fuel. A vaporized fuel - oxygen mixture at a optimal stoichiometric ratio will destroy the engine. So, if you vaporize the fuel you may need to mix it very lean not to melt the engine. The stoichiometric balance will give the most power but the engine wasn't designed to take the force. It's cool, the engine roars like a jet plane, gets hot, vaporizes the oil in the crank (which acts as more gas on the fire), and starts pumping liquid iron through the oil ducts. Just seconds of life for even a brand new engine. No turbo charger required. Of course we used V-8s.
Can you place the (spark-)nail in a different spot on the transparent head and compare the flame propagation in slow motion?
You could try and add a big pipe in the intake or exhaust (or both) between the turbo and engine, the pipe could store pressure for longer so that when the exhaust pulse reaches the turbo enough time has passed and the compressed air reaches the valve when the engine is in it's intake stroke and can use the extra air. By this logic a bigger pipe would give you more low end torque and a smaller one would give you more top end torque.
That would be REALLY interesting, as would varying the timing once he has the EFI. Do i remember correctly that on a f head you ideally want the spark over near the valves (cos that area cant be compressed so is your main combustion chamber) with timing quite advanced to allow for a long propagation distance to the cylinder?
@@mycosys I would guess that directly over the piston, or slightly towards the valve would be the best and the spark advanced to ~10 degrees, this would allow the mix to burn over the piston and not have the flame front propagate as far as it would when the ignition source is between the valves. I really hope he does this.
If i think about it, having the ignition between the valves would help with low end torque while spark over piston should help with high end torque as you can see the flame front still propagating towards the piston even when the piston reaches the half of it's stroke at high RPM.
@@stefan-alinspeteanu9572 on a flathead the area above the piston is squeezed as close as possible to completely flat, at TDC virtually the entire AFM is over the valves. Every flathead ive seen has the spark over the valves, commonly over the exhaust valve .
I guess the timing would vary a lot with fuel, i really dont know nitro,ethane
@@mycosys I know that actual car flathead engines have no space above the piston, but his engine does.
the see-through head is completely flat and he put metal spacers between it and the block, so the distance from head to piston/block is uniform, that is why i mentioned placing the ignition source above the piston.
On the see-through head the spark nail must be there as it grounds in the metal between the valves. It is not like a spark plug which has its ground is part of the body and is at the same distance wherever you put it.
The fuel isn’t atomizing enough, to get the gain of the nitro mix fuel. It should yield a higher amount hp.
what was it with out the turbo and on the same full mix?
عندكوزژننز
It'll may generate more boost when the compressor scroll is acting like a belt driven supercharger. I think there is to little exhaust gases to spool up the turbo enough. And also as others said before you run too rich. Try to make a fuel pump with a spray nozzle to atomize the fuel a little jit better so it gets a better mixture with the air.
So from what I witnessed; adding the fuel to the turbo compressor is not just slowing down the turbo but drowning the engine too. Also the turbo size plays a role, the smaller turbo for a smaller engine will be better for it. Think of it this way, that small single cyl engine can only produce X exhaust, well if you have a giant turbo it will take more time to spool if it spools at all vs the smaller turbo. But you really have to nail your "injection" timing. With the see-through head, you had your fuel mix pretty good so it could actually rev higher. It has potential. As for your oil; that's from the crank shaft whipping air into it. I think you will now need a oil pump, lines, and filter to make this little engine run the best it can plus fuel injection.
Man that just looks like fun, bunch of work but tons of fun bud. Looking forward for future videos.
Warped Perception,
so we go from literally hosing the thing down with meth to doing a fuel injection system that I question you have the ability to tune. How about putting the STOCK carb in a draw through configuration on the engine ( that means in front of the turbo) THEN go from IDLE and work your way up in jetting sizes until you get a GOOD AIR FUEL RATIO UNDER LOAD. YOU CAN DRILL THE MAIN JET FOR INCREASED FUEL AS A HACK. Also for the sake of your operation get a WIDEBAND and understand AIR FUEL RATIO.
Lol... Thanks for the feedback. I don't want to give myself too much credit but, apparently I'm doing a really good job at what I'm doing. My whole idea when writing these episodes is the kind of act like I don't know what I'm doing, I'm not even joking, feedback like yours really tells me I'm doing a good job, I always thought it wasn't believable but I love it. As a matter of fact yes I do have a lot of tuning experience, I also have a lot of experience with wideband O2 sensors, tuning by AFR and I not only have an engine management system that I'm going to adapt to this engine and others I also have a wideband O2 feedback loop that I'm going to tie into with the engine management system. On the flip side just think about if you watch this video and I started out and said hey I'm going to put a turbo on his engine and get it running great Tama and that's all I show you, I show you the parts show you the build and runs fantastic and then end the video, where would be the entertainment in that? That's my filmmaker point of view, I want to have fun while learning something new. Sincerely thanks for the feedback it tells me I'm on the right track with the way I write these and put these together, I brought this show to RUclips from Discovery so I was a little nervous at first. Thanks again and thanks for watching
pull off the pull start and do what Project Farm does, electric drill start
Yeah I tried but it was too much torque
Dude if you get a spark spraying all of that fuel it's going to be a bad day!
True, I was actually hoping for that imagine the engine running on fire, with the see-through head while filming in slow motion, that would be awesome
Warped Perception now I need to see this! Make it happen. Just be safe
killing it bud. great video. Looks like a lot of work for one video. but I appreciated it
Muy bueno 👍 Greetings from Argentina 🇦🇷