Kevin many thanks for the video on this receiver ..Now I wish I still had my S-38 as a kid I would listen to it for hours....73 and keep the great videos coming!
Thanks Kevin, you reminded me that i too have a S-38 that belonged to my grandmothers next door neighbor who was a ham and a tugboat pilot. I used to spend many hours with him listening to the shortwave bands and the AM mode hams, back in the late 50's. I just found it in all the confusion of moving from NC to TX and have been cleaning it up and checking to see how much stuff needing replacing, prolly all the caps. More to do. N5EQY
I got one of the original S38's from an auction my ham club sponsored. I was surprised. It seems to work really well. I don't think these AA5 radios get the respect they deserve. It does indeed have a hot chassis, so be careful. I made sure mine was safe before powering it up.
Good job on this classic. I have seen many of them on eBay and wondered about getting one for a refurbish project. Nice job of getting her back on the air again. 73 DE K7RMJ Frank
I had a S38C in 1956/57??. Think it had a gray cabinet but not sure. Remember listening to the SWBC stations after school and evenings. Trimm headset on so I wouldn't disturb my kid brother . We shared the same bedroom. The electrical bandspread helped. Happy days!
Funny - I've got Kenwood Trio and by watching it's characteristic beauty i made my private conclusion that in 1955 when Japanese had build that Kenwood receiver there, in Japan, had to be american aestetics and practicality impact which I much admire - it was noticeable the same also in Western Europe A few days latter I see that Helicrafter is so much looking as Kenwood Trio No better proof needed.
I have 3 S38s. Just use an isolation trasformer on it to keep chassis isolated. There should be rubber grommets to isolate the outside case from inside chassis.
That Neon green was also installed on the S 40B and a few other models for a small number of years too. I had an S-38B also in my early years when I was about 10 or 11 years old, given to me by a neighbor who was well traveled over in Europe and Russia, and he had 16 MM sound film recordings of where he and his wife went, he seen my interest in seeing his films and gave me the S-38B so I could listen to radio in these FAR OFF PLACES to leave me with an insatiable interest in radio and later on HAM RADIO with the help of an old middle school SCIENCE teacher, A MR Charles T Stantial whose call was WB2YYP who lived in Maybrook , N.Y. who went S.K. back in the mid 70's he taught 6th through 8th grade science and was one of Wallkill Central School systems BEST TEACHERS, He was an AVID HEATHKIT fan at home in his station.. ------- John A Bellas KC2UVN
Just bought a 38B at a hamfest, so thanks for the tips. Mine needs a little TLC. Been a long time since I worked on a hot chassis. Glad for the heads up. I may install a iso xmfr. Cheers! K7BDD
The S-38 was my very first Ham Receiver along with a Heathkit AT-1 Transmitter. It performed well and I made many contacts. It's main issue was 1 IF stage and therefore it had images up on 10 meters. You really never knew where you were! 73's de K8KEM bye the way.. that was in 1956 and I gave $ 45.00 for the S-38.
Hi Kevin! How about the possibility of using a polarized 3 prong adapter instead . Once you find the polarity you want just attach them with tape or a few zip ties to keep it in the correct position. Thanks for all your work. Best of luck on your upcoming nomad lifestyle. God bless you man, Kurt in Charlotte NC
I was thinking about doing a science project with my radio. Take out the tubes and replace them with transistors. I think it would be cool to have one of these operate on 9-12 volts DC. Of course, I would want to be able to unplug my solid state mod and put the tubes back in it to return it to its original state. Seems like it would be a fun project.
Polarized cord only wouldn’t help. The chassis would be hot either when it’s turned on or when it’s turned off depending on how you connect the cord. You have to connect the neutral to the chassis and move the power switch to the line side (lower wire of power input on the schematics).
I think I have one of those somewhere in my garage... and an oscilloscope from maybe 1960's? I REALLY need to clean out the garage! Some things I probably haven't touched nor seen since 1993. :(
Nice job but it would have been nice to see the results of the recap (inside shot) and watch the alignment. That would be of most interest to me anyway.
Yes today it will be hot new they had isolators but I'd be surprised if any "new" would be surprised I have a 38 c well I have all iterations but I like the C I think it's C that has the BFO
I've never gotten WWV on anything other than 5MHz with my Hallicrafters S-107, does 5MHz just propagate better? I live near Detroit... maybe I just need to get a better antenna.
Hey Kevin, I recently bought one of these at an estate sale for $18. It is the s-30C and is in much better cosmetic shape than the one you were working on. Where did you find the service manual and schematic? I'd like to "operate" on mine but would like to study the schematic first. Thanks!
I went to two hardware stores and all I could find was non-polarized plugs, unless you went with a huge bright orange power tool looking three prong plug. The one I spliced in had a bonus, a built in fuse with a spare fuse in a holder. The owner was fine with that option, so I went with it.
Actually you need what was called a " Cheater Cord". A spare AC cord with fitting on the arch end. Check Ebay for them they used to be plentiful. You also might find one on a junk AM radio thats designated for parts only. Everything vintage has value. Throw nothing away!
As I recall, it was for switching the audio output to an added plug on the back. I think someone modified it for feeding an external audio amplifier. Maybe it was used to provide music to a PA system in a store or barber shop or something.
I inherited 2 of these radios. They both look to have newer plugs than the original plugs. One has the back on it and the other doesn't. Can you tell me what they are approximately worth?
Nostalgia. The gent that owns the radio has fond memories of listening to one when he was younger. He enjoys having it playing in the room now, it takes him back to happy times.
@@loughkb I would say it's not only nostalgia for that one special piece but more nostalgia for listening to world of short waves like 50 years ago. I got two lucks in instance - the same radio makes me happy with sound just exactly like in school days. And second for best SW reception I purchased within 14 years 4 one by one new transistor double conversion portables Finaly I enjoy best of all tube Kenwood Trio with single conversion which wins by reception even with my best portable digital radio (which was by the way made in 1985) with double. I am on my way to make it digital readout of frequency as modern have. It is fun to spot reception extremly distant and even weak transmitters.
nice job but... yep theres a but.. orig over death... mmmmmmmmmm lets see here... customer to me has no say in how safe a radio works. they may sell it down road and bang someone is killed. i myself would have said to them. its safety. new lead. leave old lead thru there. but drill new hole for new lead and plug.. to me done deal safer but over all not bad.. i just got done with a s 40b. love the old thing. recap and reresistor.
The whole of the radio has a max 30W draw, most of that in the filaments. I think the audio section is around 5 watts, which is a lot from one small speaker.
Thank you for this video - just got an S-38C - will be starting soon - great information.
Kevin many thanks for the video on this receiver ..Now I wish I still had my S-38 as a kid I would listen to it for hours....73 and keep the great videos coming!
Amazing to see these old sets come to life again...
Well done, great to see "real" electronics working...
Mike, Nottingham UK
Thanks Kevin, you reminded me that i too have a S-38 that belonged to my grandmothers next door neighbor who was a ham and a tugboat pilot. I used to spend many hours with him listening to the shortwave bands and the AM mode hams, back in the late 50's. I just found it in all the confusion of moving from NC to TX and have been cleaning it up and checking to see how much stuff needing replacing, prolly all the caps. More to do. N5EQY
Those "All-American 5" sets were notorious for having hot chassis'. Fun little radios to get going again though.
A tip: you can watch movies at flixzone. I've been using it for watching a lot of movies during the lockdown.
@Lucian Kendrick Definitely, been watching on flixzone for years myself :D
I got one of the original S38's from an auction my ham club sponsored.
I was surprised. It seems to work really well.
I don't think these AA5 radios get the respect they deserve.
It does indeed have a hot chassis, so be careful.
I made sure mine was safe before powering it up.
Good job on this classic. I have seen many of them on eBay and wondered about getting one for a refurbish project. Nice job of getting her back on the air again. 73 DE K7RMJ Frank
From what I read, they were one of the most popular models ever sold. First one I've seen in person, but I hear there's a lot of them out there.
Good stuff Kevin, way to preserve history.
I had a S38C in 1956/57??. Think it had a gray cabinet but not sure. Remember listening to the SWBC stations after school and evenings. Trimm headset on so I wouldn't disturb my kid brother . We shared the same bedroom. The electrical bandspread helped. Happy days!
Funny - I've got Kenwood Trio and by watching it's characteristic beauty i made my private conclusion that in 1955 when Japanese had build that Kenwood receiver there, in Japan, had to be american aestetics and practicality impact which I much admire - it was noticeable the same also in Western Europe A few days latter I see that Helicrafter is so much looking as Kenwood Trio No better proof needed.
I have 3 S38s. Just use an isolation trasformer on it to keep chassis isolated. There should be rubber grommets to isolate the outside case from inside chassis.
That Neon green was also installed on the S 40B and a few other models for a small number of years too. I had an S-38B also in my early years when I was about 10 or 11 years old, given to me by a neighbor who was well traveled over in Europe and Russia, and he had 16 MM sound film recordings of where he and his wife went, he seen my interest in seeing his films and gave me the S-38B so I could listen to radio in these FAR OFF PLACES to leave me with an insatiable interest in radio and later on HAM RADIO with the help of an old middle school SCIENCE teacher, A MR Charles T Stantial whose call was WB2YYP who lived in Maybrook , N.Y. who went S.K. back in the mid 70's he taught 6th through 8th grade science and was one of Wallkill Central School systems BEST TEACHERS, He was an AVID HEATHKIT fan at home in his station.. ------- John A Bellas KC2UVN
I'm in the middle of restoring one of these. This video proves to be very helpful.
Just bought a 38B at a hamfest, so thanks for the tips. Mine needs a little TLC. Been a long time since I worked on a hot chassis. Glad for the heads up. I may install a iso xmfr. Cheers! K7BDD
It's amazing what they were able to do with just 5 tubes.
I read that the design was fairly common and referred to as "The all American five" design. Apparently several manufacturers had very similar.
The S-38 was my very first Ham Receiver along with a Heathkit AT-1 Transmitter. It performed well and I made many contacts. It's main issue was 1 IF stage and therefore it had images up on 10 meters. You really never knew where you were! 73's de K8KEM bye the way.. that was in 1956 and I gave $ 45.00 for the S-38.
They held their value well! The Ad I saw from 1947 had them listed at $47.95.
My first receiver-- I paid $30 in 1952. (WN4YTC)
There were Army MARS
stations using this to communicate with Korea.
Hi Kevin! How about the possibility of using a polarized 3 prong adapter instead . Once you find the polarity you want just attach them with tape or a few zip ties to keep it in the correct position.
Thanks for all your work. Best of luck on your upcoming nomad lifestyle.
God bless you man, Kurt in Charlotte NC
Excellent safe restore
My father just use a paper clip on the ground side of the plug that way it wrote fit in the plus side of the plug
Nice job getting this on receiver back up and going. Don't you miss the days when the bands was full of broadcast?
Memories of being 16 with a crystal radio next to my bed and many languages drifting into my earphone.
I have this exact set in my collection waiting for restoration
I was thinking about doing a science project with my radio. Take out the tubes and replace them with transistors.
I think it would be cool to have one of these operate on 9-12 volts DC.
Of course, I would want to be able to unplug my solid state mod and put the tubes back in it to return it to its original state.
Seems like it would be a fun project.
You would have to replace everything. And add a bunch of components to bias the transistors and stuff. Basically rebuild the whole thing from scratch.
Polarized cord only wouldn’t help. The chassis would be hot either when it’s turned on or when it’s turned off depending on how you connect the cord. You have to connect the neutral to the chassis and move the power switch to the line side (lower wire of power input on the schematics).
Obviously.
Is the bottom plate on this set made of metal? If so, when you put it back on, you will alter your alignment!
I think I have one of those somewhere in my garage... and an oscilloscope from maybe 1960's? I REALLY need to clean out the garage! Some things I probably haven't touched nor seen since 1993. :(
My father has (had) one. Good job. I have a National NC-105, tube SW receiver in need of love and care. Just sayin’ 🙂
thank you for sharing...i just recapped one of these...then proceeded to blow up a resistor on start up :)
Yikes! Something must have been putting quite a load on it. A missed cap?
hmm replaced them with hayseed kit ... r4 the 390 ohm one keeps going up in flames
@@minskmade Did you ever figure out the problem? I have a hayseed kit in the mail.
@@draftwood i did not i scrapped it. :(
Nothing wrong with preachers!
Nice job but it would have been nice to see the results of the recap (inside shot) and watch the alignment. That would be of most interest to me anyway.
Yeah, sorry.. I was having a bad day and just trying to get through the project. Next time, I'll show more of the work. Thanks for watching!
Reminds of an old National multi-band I used to own.
Yes today it will be hot new they had isolators but I'd be surprised if any "new" would be surprised I have a 38 c well I have all iterations but I like the C I think it's C that has the BFO
Have a 38C model . Am starts out strong then goes down hill .
Well the say real radios glow in the dark ; )
I've never gotten WWV on anything other than 5MHz with my Hallicrafters S-107, does 5MHz just propagate better? I live near Detroit... maybe I just need to get a better antenna.
I remember the time i blew the fuse in the house our home had no polirized house outlets i was so luckey my dad did not beat the crap out of me kg6mn
YEP
Add all the filament voltages and you will come up with 120 Volts.
Thanks Kevin. I found it on Nostalgiaair.com. Good resource.
...I meant S-38C not S-3C.
What kind of antenna did you use?
This was quite a while ago, I think I just had a length of wire running out the mail slot and up into a tree.
Hey Kevin, I recently bought one of these at an estate sale for $18. It is the s-30C and is in much better cosmetic shape than the one you were working on. Where did you find the service manual and schematic? I'd like to "operate" on mine but would like to study the schematic first. Thanks!
+obewankobe I did a web search on halicrafters and the model number, and the word manual. I think there were many links.
Why not just put a plug on the cord? Why the splice?
I went to two hardware stores and all I could find was non-polarized plugs, unless you went with a huge bright orange power tool looking three prong plug.
The one I spliced in had a bonus, a built in fuse with a spare fuse in a holder. The owner was fine with that option, so I went with it.
How do you get the back panel off without destroyong the plug as its riveted to the chassis?
Actually you need what was called a " Cheater Cord". A spare AC cord with fitting on the arch end. Check Ebay for them they used to be plentiful. You also might find one on a junk AM radio thats designated for parts only. Everything vintage has value. Throw nothing away!
Did you find out what the switch on the back was for ?
As I recall, it was for switching the audio output to an added plug on the back. I think someone modified it for feeding an external audio amplifier. Maybe it was used to provide music to a PA system in a store or barber shop or something.
I inherited 2 of these radios. They both look to have newer plugs than the original plugs. One has the back on it and the other doesn't. Can you tell me what they are approximately worth?
No idea. Search ebay for them and click the "sold listings" box to see what they have been selling for.
Carol Fernandez Several being sold now for between $80 and $200 depending on condition.
one has to ask WHY ? this is like restoring a home made electric chair.
Nostalgia. The gent that owns the radio has fond memories of listening to one when he was younger. He enjoys having it playing in the room now, it takes him back to happy times.
@@loughkb I would say it's not only nostalgia for that one special piece but more nostalgia for listening to world of short waves like 50 years ago. I got two lucks in instance - the same radio makes me happy with sound just exactly like in school days. And second for best SW reception I purchased within 14 years 4 one by one new transistor double conversion portables Finaly I enjoy best of all tube Kenwood Trio with single conversion which wins by reception even with my best portable digital radio (which was by the way made in 1985) with double. I am on my way to make it digital readout of frequency as modern have. It is fun to spot reception extremly distant and even weak transmitters.
nice job but... yep theres a but.. orig over death... mmmmmmmmmm lets see here... customer to me has no say in how safe a radio works. they may sell it down road and bang someone is killed. i myself would have said to them. its safety. new lead. leave old lead thru there. but drill new hole for new lead and plug.. to me done deal safer but over all not bad.. i just got done with a s 40b. love the old thing. recap and reresistor.
plenty of audio with a 30 watt audio section.
The whole of the radio has a max 30W draw, most of that in the filaments. I think the audio section is around 5 watts, which is a lot from one small speaker.
Your test doesn't prove anything about a HOT CHASSIS...your next statement about polarization proves that.
I was wondering I try to do the same test and it didn't work