i have a maytag merh865ras16. Heating element was broken, replaced it. Check high limit switch, within ohms. Checked temp sensor, ohms reading normal. Still not getting hot. At 100F for 10min. What can it be? thanks for your help with this matter.
@@andrewbernier3582 Thanks for watching. Does the stove still work? If so, then it could be a faulty control board or a connection ruclips.net/video/96s7maybHlY/видео.html
I have a wall oven ran self clean and stopped working during self clean. No power, doors locked. I had to use wire to get doors open. Looks like high limit switch on this GE unit. Is this most likely it? Oven is 1 year old.
Thanks for watching. Yes a high limit switch could have tripped but not all models have a high limit switch, you can check using this tool: www.amresupply.com/lookup If your model does not have a thermal fuse or high limit switch it could be an issue with the temperature sensor, or the control board.
Thanks for watching. According to the Home Ventilation Institute (HVI), the minimum airflow ratings for kitchen exhaust systems is 100 CFM There are also considerations of minimum duct size but it's best to check the building codes for your local area as this differs based on province or state.
Hi Vance. I like your videos and how you carry yourself in them. I'd love to hear your opinion on this situation, now that I've watched all your oven videos and followed their advice ... Oven = GE Spacemaker (JMP28). Oven/Stove top combination The problem = Bake mode is initiated (as heard by click and shown by display), but, after about 5 seconds, the mode is terminated (display no longer reads "Bake On"). The same is true when using the Broil mode. The oven doesn't even have the chance to heat up, and only the broil element appears to heat very slightly. When my mom tried to use the oven twice the week before, she heard the oven beep to indicate preheating was done, but after she put the food in the oven, it never ended up being cooked, and was room temperature when she later opened the door. The stove top and display work just fine. Also, I notice that even when the oven is not running, there is a slight hum/buzz coming from it; it is not coming from the small ~3 in diameter fan located at the top back of the oven (I cannot tell where the noise comes from). My mom does not remember noticing the noise in the past. Test results = Bake element appears undamaged and reads 30 Ohm across and infinite Ohm when tested to oven frame, broil element appears undamaged and reads 18 Ohms across and infinite Ohm when tested to oven frame, temperature sensor appears undamaged and reads 1010 Ohms (however, it should be noted that I DID NOT unplug the temp sensor from its leads when testing, as they were crimped to the leads), no error codes on display screen, no burn marks or deformed capacitors/transistors on the control board, THERMAL LIMIT SWITCH HAS ZERO CONTINUITY and is not a re-settable type. Conclusion = The thermal limit switch needs to be replaced. Perhaps the humming noise is coming from an internal fan that is automatically turned on to prevent overheating of the oven--this would make sense, since the limit switch is designed to prevent overheating? I realize that I need to replace the thermal limit switch no matter what, but I am concerned that by replacing the thermal limit switch, I'll just have it fail again, without fixing a bigger underlying problem (although, I do realize that limit switches can simply go bad in and of themselves). My Question = Given the above details, should I simply replace the thermal limit switch and see where it leads me--even if it just ends up failing again and costing another $50? Or, can I bypass the limit switch by connecting the two leads on opposite sides together followed by running the oven to monitor its behavior and to gather more information to see if the underlying issue might in fact by the thermal sensor or something else (I could put a thermometer inside the oven to make sure that it doesn't overheat during testing)? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Andy
Thanks for watching. Based on your tests, the thermal switch is faulty. Overtime the bi-metallic strip inside of the switch can wear down. It is however not recommended to bypass any safety switch since the appliance is designed to be used specifically with that switch.
@@AmreSupply Thank you! I appreciate your quick response. I sure hope replacing the thermal switch will solve the issue. That slight humming/buzzing noise, even when the oven is not running, has me concerned. I will chime back in for others to learn from this, once I've figured out more.
Well, I definitely struck out on this one. It turns out that: NOT ALL LIMIT SWITCHES HAVE CONTINUITY IN THEIR DEFAULT CONDITION--SOME ARE "NORMALLY OPEN" WHILE OTHERS ARE NORMALLY CLOSED (UNLIKE WHAT IS SHOWN IN THIS VIDEO). Thus, I tested my limit switch and it showed no continuity, making me believe it was bad, as shown in the above video. I ordered a replacement that was used. It also showed no continuity, leading me to believe that it also must have been faulty. I then ordered a brand new one, and it also showed no continuity. More research reveals that some limit switches are "normally open" while others are "normally closed". Just thought I'd mention this to those who have viewed this video--I wish the video had discussed this, as it would have saved me a lot of time and headache. The moral: BEFORE BELIEVING THAT YOUR LIMIT SWITCH IS BAD, MAKE SURE YOU KNOW IF IT IS A "NORMALLy OPEN" OR A "NORMALly CLOSED" SWITCH. At the moment, I now have no idea how to repair my oven, as everything else tests well, as described in my original post.
@@AEMBowers Thanks for watching. It is not very common for ovens to use normally open limit switches any more so we didn't focus on that. It is not likely that a new switch would arrive faulty so it is most likely a NO switch. You could use a heat gun to apply heat and see if you get continuity if you wanted to be sure. If the limit switch, the temperature sensor and the heating elements are all good. Then it could be a faulty relay in the control board. Relays can't be replaced without additional skill or knowledge so in most cases people decide to replace the entire board.
Thank you for the video. I hope this works for me. I have the samsung NE59R4321SS-AA-00 oven. It heats up to temp when you turn it on but will not hold the temp. I have to keep entering the temp over and over to get it back up. I replaced the Temperature Sensor already and that did not work. Do you think this is the problem and I need to replace the High limit switch? Or could it be something else? Any help would be great, it's driving us crazy. Thank you and I look forward to your reply.
Thanks for watching. Have you verified that both heating elements are working? ruclips.net/video/ABope7vl5IY/видео.html If the bake element fails it can create issues. The bake element provides 80% of the heat during a bake cycle, the broil element is only on 20% of the time. In this case the oven might still heat up during a preheat but once it switches to the bake cycle it will shut off the broil element more often resulting in a reduction of temperature.
@@AmreSupply I did, yes I tested them and if I remember right I got like 25ohm from the bake. The broil is just fine also. This is making my oven useless. Thank you for any help you may offer.
@@marcstephen-em9ve If the elements are good, and the temp sensor and the wires are also good, then it could be the high limit switch or thermal fuse in some models. Not all models have a thermal fuse or limit switch. After checking all else, it could be a faulty control board.
Hello (great video btw) I'm still unsure about my problem. I have a samsung ne59k3310 (no convection model) and it broil and heat, but doesn't heat enough to cook. As if it heat at 50% even tho it indicate 400f. I have enough knowledge to change a faulty high switch, but wondering if it make sense. What are your thoughts. Thank you p.s. the oven was underuse, we don't cook very often with the oven. once or twice a week and range is about 5 yrs old.
Thanks for watching, we're glad that you found it helpful! It is likely that the temperature sensor is faulty. You can learn more about how to test the sensor and how to replace it in this video. It will show you everything you need to know: ruclips.net/video/jnt_mUwdL8o/видео.html
@@AmreSupply Update : it's the baking element, it is clearly broken. i was able to see throught the hole with a flashlight. thanks again for your tips and great videos.
@@Drekulviin You're welcome, we're glad that you found the videos helpful!! Its good that you checked the elements more closely. Since the bake and broil elements are both active in the bake setting, a broken bake element would explain why the bake setting was only heating partially when you tested it. Cheers
Thanks for watching, if your oven keeps overheating then it could be a faulty temperature sensor, a shorted element or a problem with the control board: ruclips.net/video/10ezc3LNQP4/видео.html
Did this video help you fix your oven? Did you run into any problems? Let us know in the comments!
i have a maytag merh865ras16. Heating element was broken, replaced it. Check high limit switch, within ohms. Checked temp sensor, ohms reading normal. Still not getting hot. At 100F for 10min. What can it be? thanks for your help with this matter.
@@andrewbernier3582 Thanks for watching. Does the stove still work? If so, then it could be a faulty control board or a connection ruclips.net/video/96s7maybHlY/видео.html
My problem is getting DOOR message when trying to use my wall oven
@@mahmoudbenam1045 Thanks for watching. A door error code likely means that the door switch is faulty or there is an issue with the door lock.
I have a wall oven ran self clean and stopped working during self clean. No power, doors locked. I had to use wire to get doors open. Looks like high limit switch on this GE unit. Is this most likely it? Oven is 1 year old.
Thanks for watching. Yes a high limit switch could have tripped but not all models have a high limit switch, you can check using this tool: www.amresupply.com/lookup
If your model does not have a thermal fuse or high limit switch it could be an issue with the temperature sensor, or the control board.
what is minimum ventilation of kitchen?
it's in new jersey test from
door window exhaust fan. or range hood
Thanks for watching. According to the Home Ventilation Institute (HVI), the minimum airflow ratings for kitchen exhaust systems is 100 CFM There are also considerations of minimum duct size but it's best to check the building codes for your local area as this differs based on province or state.
thanks 😊
@@josephkwon9034 You're welcome
Hi Vance. I like your videos and how you carry yourself in them. I'd love to hear your opinion on this situation, now that I've watched all your oven videos and followed their advice ...
Oven = GE Spacemaker (JMP28). Oven/Stove top combination
The problem = Bake mode is initiated (as heard by click and shown by display), but, after about 5 seconds, the mode is terminated (display no longer reads "Bake On"). The same is true when using the Broil mode. The oven doesn't even have the chance to heat up, and only the broil element appears to heat very slightly. When my mom tried to use the oven twice the week before, she heard the oven beep to indicate preheating was done, but after she put the food in the oven, it never ended up being cooked, and was room temperature when she later opened the door. The stove top and display work just fine. Also, I notice that even when the oven is not running, there is a slight hum/buzz coming from it; it is not coming from the small ~3 in diameter fan located at the top back of the oven (I cannot tell where the noise comes from). My mom does not remember noticing the noise in the past.
Test results = Bake element appears undamaged and reads 30 Ohm across and infinite Ohm when tested to oven frame, broil element appears undamaged and reads 18 Ohms across and infinite Ohm when tested to oven frame, temperature sensor appears undamaged and reads 1010 Ohms (however, it should be noted that I DID NOT unplug the temp sensor from its leads when testing, as they were crimped to the leads), no error codes on display screen, no burn marks or deformed capacitors/transistors on the control board, THERMAL LIMIT SWITCH HAS ZERO CONTINUITY and is not a re-settable type.
Conclusion = The thermal limit switch needs to be replaced. Perhaps the humming noise is coming from an internal fan that is automatically turned on to prevent overheating of the oven--this would make sense, since the limit switch is designed to prevent overheating? I realize that I need to replace the thermal limit switch no matter what, but I am concerned that by replacing the thermal limit switch, I'll just have it fail again, without fixing a bigger underlying problem (although, I do realize that limit switches can simply go bad in and of themselves).
My Question = Given the above details, should I simply replace the thermal limit switch and see where it leads me--even if it just ends up failing again and costing another $50? Or, can I bypass the limit switch by connecting the two leads on opposite sides together followed by running the oven to monitor its behavior and to gather more information to see if the underlying issue might in fact by the thermal sensor or something else (I could put a thermometer inside the oven to make sure that it doesn't overheat during testing)?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Andy
Thanks for watching. Based on your tests, the thermal switch is faulty. Overtime the bi-metallic strip inside of the switch can wear down. It is however not recommended to bypass any safety switch since the appliance is designed to be used specifically with that switch.
@@AmreSupply Thank you! I appreciate your quick response. I sure hope replacing the thermal switch will solve the issue. That slight humming/buzzing noise, even when the oven is not running, has me concerned. I will chime back in for others to learn from this, once I've figured out more.
Well, I definitely struck out on this one. It turns out that: NOT ALL LIMIT SWITCHES HAVE CONTINUITY IN THEIR DEFAULT CONDITION--SOME ARE "NORMALLY OPEN" WHILE OTHERS ARE NORMALLY CLOSED (UNLIKE WHAT IS SHOWN IN THIS VIDEO). Thus, I tested my limit switch and it showed no continuity, making me believe it was bad, as shown in the above video. I ordered a replacement that was used. It also showed no continuity, leading me to believe that it also must have been faulty. I then ordered a brand new one, and it also showed no continuity. More research reveals that some limit switches are "normally open" while others are "normally closed". Just thought I'd mention this to those who have viewed this video--I wish the video had discussed this, as it would have saved me a lot of time and headache. The moral: BEFORE BELIEVING THAT YOUR LIMIT SWITCH IS BAD, MAKE SURE YOU KNOW IF IT IS A "NORMALLy OPEN" OR A "NORMALly CLOSED" SWITCH. At the moment, I now have no idea how to repair my oven, as everything else tests well, as described in my original post.
@@AEMBowers Thanks for watching. It is not very common for ovens to use normally open limit switches any more so we didn't focus on that.
It is not likely that a new switch would arrive faulty so it is most likely a NO switch. You could use a heat gun to apply heat and see if you get continuity if you wanted to be sure.
If the limit switch, the temperature sensor and the heating elements are all good. Then it could be a faulty relay in the control board.
Relays can't be replaced without additional skill or knowledge so in most cases people decide to replace the entire board.
Thank you for the video. I hope this works for me. I have the samsung NE59R4321SS-AA-00 oven. It heats up to temp when you turn it on but will not hold the temp. I have to keep entering the temp over and over to get it back up. I replaced the Temperature Sensor already and that did not work. Do you think this is the problem and I need to replace the High limit switch? Or could it be something else? Any help would be great, it's driving us crazy. Thank you and I look forward to your reply.
Thanks for watching. Have you verified that both heating elements are working? ruclips.net/video/ABope7vl5IY/видео.html
If the bake element fails it can create issues. The bake element provides 80% of the heat during a bake cycle, the broil element is only on 20% of the time. In this case the oven might still heat up during a preheat but once it switches to the bake cycle it will shut off the broil element more often resulting in a reduction of temperature.
@@AmreSupply I did, yes I tested them and if I remember right I got like 25ohm from the bake. The broil is just fine also. This is making my oven useless. Thank you for any help you may offer.
@@marcstephen-em9ve If the elements are good, and the temp sensor and the wires are also good, then it could be the high limit switch or thermal fuse in some models. Not all models have a thermal fuse or limit switch. After checking all else, it could be a faulty control board.
Hello (great video btw) I'm still unsure about my problem. I have a samsung ne59k3310 (no convection model) and it broil and heat, but doesn't heat enough to cook. As if it heat at 50% even tho it indicate 400f. I have enough knowledge to change a faulty high switch, but wondering if it make sense. What are your thoughts. Thank you
p.s. the oven was underuse, we don't cook very often with the oven. once or twice a week and range is about 5 yrs old.
Thanks for watching, we're glad that you found it helpful! It is likely that the temperature sensor is faulty. You can learn more about how to test the sensor and how to replace it in this video. It will show you everything you need to know: ruclips.net/video/jnt_mUwdL8o/видео.html
@@AmreSupply Thank you for the quick answer.
@@AmreSupply Update : it's the baking element, it is clearly broken. i was able to see throught the hole with a flashlight. thanks again for your tips and great videos.
@@Drekulviin You're welcome, we're glad that you found the videos helpful!! Its good that you checked the elements more closely. Since the bake and broil elements are both active in the bake setting, a broken bake element would explain why the bake setting was only heating partially when you tested it. Cheers
HELLO SIR , CAN I ASK SOMETHING??
WHAT A PROBLEM WHEN OVEN HIGH OVERLIMIT TEMPERATURE??? HOPEFULLY . sir can you solved mY problem???
Thanks for watching, if your oven keeps overheating then it could be a faulty temperature sensor, a shorted element or a problem with the control board: ruclips.net/video/10ezc3LNQP4/видео.html
I don’t see my problem in these videos
DOOR message on wall oven
Thanks for watching. A door error code likely means that the door switch is faulty or there is an issue with the door lock.