Those heavier wires look awesome, I'm just curious if this improved how it ran? I'm tossing up between a new coil and leads or a coil on plug conversion, trying to fix a random lumpy idle and missfire
Just did this to my 318 (very easy install). Leads cost me 45 bucks, couldnt find them in the scrapyard. Faulty lead had been causing a lot of misfire in low gears.
I could use some help/pointers. 96 318i. 94k miles, 5spd manual. Car was running fine but 2 weeks ago the plastic water outlet failed on the back of the engine. All coolant leaked out as the large nipple broke off. A major pita to replace but I did it. At the same time I was thinking the similar water outlet on the driver side of the block could be just as bad. So i bought that as well and took the upper intake manifold off and replaced that as well. Changed most hoses too, incl. the ones to the injector as they were in bad shape. After that I noticed oil leak at cyl # 2 so I changed the valve cover gasket. As I was putting back the throttle body, I noticed there was a lot of oil smudge deposit around the butterfly valves, so I cleaned the batterflies and surroundings with kerosin (I had no carb cleaner left) It removed the nasty oil deposits and the valves seem to open and close a little better. No more sticky feel. I then put everything back and now I have a rough idle. It never stalled yet, but its rough. Like its too low, as if I tap the accelerator pedal a little, it smooths out. I drove the car today about 30-40 miles. It did feel slightly better after driving it but once cooled down, its really crap again. It hovers around the 700rpm range but rough, shakes the engine. Here is what I did so far as an attempt to fix it. I put 4 new NGK spark plug on it. I removed the idle control valve and cleaned it. It was not really dirty, but cleaned it anyway. The valve was turning freely and the whole valve seems ok. I also sprayed a lot of intake/throttle cleaner into the throttle body. I cleaned the Mass Air Flow sensor with the MAF Cleaner as well. No changes whatsoever. Once its revved, the car seems to be running perfectly fine, no hesitation, no vibration, smooth, power seems to be all there, no hard starting, no stalling. I did around 70mph the fastest and it was fine at that speed as well. No other issues but the idle being rough. Its almost like when you have a large V8 with a lumpy idle. Engine shaking, etc. Also, no check engine light, so I can't try and read codes. I tried spraying carb cleaner around the intake manifold, throttle body to see if the idle gets rougher or stalling happens but nothing. Also as the engine gets warmer, it gets slightly better. Still very bad, but a tad smoother. Its like 1 being stalling 5 being perfect, it gets from #2 to #3 and if you drive it a lot, it gets #4 but never smooth like it was before I torn everything down. I'm pretty sure I did something during assembly. It does not seem it just happen to go bad. Right before I started working on it 4 days ago, I pulled into a garage and smooth idle, etc. I ran it only for 40-50 sec as it had no coolant, but car had butter smooth idle. I ordered an O2 sensor, as I was going to change that anyway. I used BMW parts and NGK spark plugs. I appreciate any and all help as I'm a bit lost at the moment.
I’m dealing with an identical issue on mine. Did you end up finding out what it was. I’m thinking of replacing the ignition coil next but it’s a 130 dollars on fcp and don’t wanna buy it and have it do nothing
Hey Nathan, just looked at your video regarding the NGK wire set for BMW 318 e36 can't find them on Amazon. Any help would be appreciated. Thank's in advance ED.
So hard to find videos on stock 318is- thank you!!
LOL tell me about it. Just disconnected my wires and didn't know the sequence.
Those heavier wires look awesome, I'm just curious if this improved how it ran? I'm tossing up between a new coil and leads or a coil on plug conversion, trying to fix a random lumpy idle and missfire
Just did this to my 318 (very easy install). Leads cost me 45 bucks, couldnt find them in the scrapyard. Faulty lead had been causing a lot of misfire in low gears.
Thanks alot I didnt know the pattern on how to connect the wires you just made it seem so easy
Tomorrow morning Im reconnecting coil wires in my 318is
I could use some help/pointers. 96 318i. 94k miles, 5spd manual. Car was running fine but 2 weeks ago the plastic water outlet failed on the back of the engine. All coolant leaked out as the large nipple broke off. A major pita to replace but I did it. At the same time I was thinking the similar water outlet on the driver side of the block could be just as bad. So i bought that as well and took the upper intake manifold off and replaced that as well. Changed most hoses too, incl. the ones to the injector as they were in bad shape. After that I noticed oil leak at cyl # 2 so I changed the valve cover gasket. As I was putting back the throttle body, I noticed there was a lot of oil smudge deposit around the butterfly valves, so I cleaned the batterflies and surroundings with kerosin (I had no carb cleaner left) It removed the nasty oil deposits and the valves seem to open and close a little better. No more sticky feel. I then put everything back and now I have a rough idle. It never stalled yet, but its rough. Like its too low, as if I tap the accelerator pedal a little, it smooths out. I drove the car today about 30-40 miles. It did feel slightly better after driving it but once cooled down, its really crap again. It hovers around the 700rpm range but rough, shakes the engine. Here is what I did so far as an attempt to fix it. I put 4 new NGK spark plug on it. I removed the idle control valve and cleaned it. It was not really dirty, but cleaned it anyway. The valve was turning freely and the whole valve seems ok. I also sprayed a lot of intake/throttle cleaner into the throttle body. I cleaned the Mass Air Flow sensor with the MAF Cleaner as well. No changes whatsoever. Once its revved, the car seems to be running perfectly fine, no hesitation, no vibration, smooth, power seems to be all there, no hard starting, no stalling. I did around 70mph the fastest and it was fine at that speed as well. No other issues but the idle being rough. Its almost like when you have a large V8 with a lumpy idle. Engine shaking, etc. Also, no check engine light, so I can't try and read codes. I tried spraying carb cleaner around the intake manifold, throttle body to see if the idle gets rougher or stalling happens but nothing. Also as the engine gets warmer, it gets slightly better. Still very bad, but a tad smoother. Its like 1 being stalling 5 being perfect, it gets from #2 to #3 and if you drive it a lot, it gets #4 but never smooth like it was before I torn everything down. I'm pretty sure I did something during assembly. It does not seem it just happen to go bad. Right before I started working on it 4 days ago, I pulled into a garage and smooth idle, etc. I ran it only for 40-50 sec as it had no coolant, but car had butter smooth idle. I ordered an O2 sensor, as I was going to change that anyway. I used BMW parts and NGK spark plugs. I appreciate any and all help as I'm a bit lost at the moment.
I’m dealing with an identical issue on mine. Did you end up finding out what it was. I’m thinking of replacing the ignition coil next but it’s a 130 dollars on fcp and don’t wanna buy it and have it do nothing
Hey Nathan, just looked at your video regarding the NGK wire set for BMW 318 e36 can't find them on Amazon. Any help would be appreciated. Thank's in advance ED.
thx for helping me school an old mechanic 😂
what I have done for them to fit was to cut off the rubber sheath off the wires and with a little silicone spray all looks factory.
you should edit the title and add Z3 also. The 1996 1.9L uses the same engine
Donovan Tyler it’s sams thing bro
Эти новые Провода от кокой автомобиль?
Great video thanks for the help. It’s greatly appreciated.
Do I need to disconnect the battery in order to swap leads?
No you don’t
Did you disconnect the battery?
Yes any electrical work required battery disconnect and a minimum of 10-15 minutes to let stored energy to discharge
super easy install
thank you man !!!
Nice job!
great job
Those leads would be $300 at the dealer.
$250 ordered online...Bosch.
That is not an M44B19 engine. That is the predecessor known as the M42B18. The M44B19 was not used until model year 1996.
This is a 1997 with the m44
There’s always one