If you enter amazon through my link amzn.to/3lhFqKz I get payed a small percentage of whatever you spend there. It doesn't cost you any more and I don't know what you've bought. Many thanks to those that do use my link. its greatly appreciated.
Thanks for doing this, I had the same issue with my table saw, I got lucky though because the rubber cup was not damaged at all. So I replaced the bearing that I bought locally for about $5.00 taxes in and my table saw is good as new. The brushes on mine were really not worn at all. What a pain to reinstall the bolts on the motor to the bracket, my hands are kind of too big to get in there, got it done after quite a while. Thanks again for taking the time to make a video of it.
Apparently this is quite a common problem. I was just going to junk the saw, ( there's LOTS of bad things about this saw) and am just looking for a reason to buy a newer saw, but thought I'd try this fix and it worked like a charm ! Bought me a couple more years (I hope ) before having to upgrade. Thanks for posting this series ! This is EXACTLY what I love about youtube ! Education !
Great video, you did a super job of showing us how it was done. I usually use a two or three arm puller to pull the bearings off, if they haven't got so hot as to weld them on the shaft. Thanks for the video, you have helped all of us to understand better how to do this job.
I work in an electric motor shop. We use a puller for pulley's to pull bearings off with and then press new ones on. When you have a plastic housing (end bell) like this, you might as well junk it. When the bearing gets hot and melts the plastic like that, the hole that holds the bearing gets out of round and will not hold the bearing in place and it will slip. If it had been a cast iron or stainless steel housing, you could had it fixed. If you use an air compressor and blow the saw dust out once in awhile it will help the bearings to last longer. The saw dust is so fine that it can even get inside of a totally enclosed motor and clogged it up. The first thing I recommend to customers when they call us about their saw motors is to blow them out. Sometimes the dust gets into the govenor or switches and damages them but that's a cheap fix. Also that little metal ring could be a slip (round circle that is open with 2 little wholes)ring which helps to hold the fan in place.
I just followed this repair for my ailing Craftsman saw. It had been acting up for a while until it totally failed a few days ago. This repair worked perfectly! Thanks for the bearing part # (in next video) -- this was invaluable! Cut the outer race with my dremel, and was able to twist the inner race off with vice grips. Whole job cost less than $10, and works as good as new!
Thank You! I was about ready to throw mine out until I watched your video and fixed my table saw. It was the brushes on my motor that were full of saw dust. Just opened the covers and blew it out. Now it works.
That's along time for a bench top type direct drive saw to be in service!!! It's an easy fix my man... The new bearing is the easy part - fixing the case is a bit of a challenge... Take your new bearing and wrap it Saran wrap so there is No wrinkles-pour some epoxy down where it seats then press the wrapped bearing into place- let dry and walla fixed:)
Im sure the bearing is common, look at the end plates for a 4 digit number, there are stacks of manufacturers that make bearings. If you can afford it then replace the front bearing as well, then its covered for another 10 years lol :-) Never apply any force to the outer of the bearing to install, use a tube to tap the center onto the clean clean shaft only. I know you will win as long as you take your time mate :-)
I just bought this same saw this afternoon used for $50.00 in pretty sharp condition. The previous owner stated he thinks the motor is going out. I haven't even plugged it in yet, tomorrow I will see what awaits me as well. I think its great that your willing to attack the project, I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.
Jim Martin My son-in-laws 10Inch Craftsman wont run. He brought it over and I decided I would give it a shot. I found these videos by BCtruck which really help oriented me. I got the motor off and when I opened it up I found a "glob" of black plastic stuck to the armature at the saw blade end. I couldn't figure what it had been. I cut the plastic away from the armature and looked further into the motor. I found that the bearing at the other end was seized just like the video talks about. I then began my hunt for parts. I was able to get a new bearing, a new bushing and a new "Baffle" this last item appears to be what the black glob was before it melted. In BCTRruck video he makes no mention of the baffle but you can see it a one point on his work bench. I had to cut the bearing off with my Dremel just like he did. The helpful hint about putting the armature in the freezer was a great tip. Another thing was that he says they don't show the rear bearing on the motor cutaway. They actually do but they only sell it with the whole new armature. Funniest thing was the $1.99 bushing was available on Amazon but the shipping was $9.99 (rediculous but necessary). Got it all back together and hit the switch, it spun and I felt a great sense of accomplishment as a 74 year old retired engineer. One more thing , like somebody else said they found some semi-circle thin washers, probably used for shims but I couldn't figure where they fell from when I turned the saw over to begin the whole process. About $28 in parts, 6 hours of grandpa time (nearly worthless) and satisfaction of saving another tool, priceless
Can you tell us how you were able to remove the armature? I’ve disassembled mine but I cannot get the armature out of the housing in order to place the new bearing on that end. I as well had to use a dremel to remove the bearing on the other end
I have this same issue. Thanks for sharing your vid. The bearing is pressed on. You need a bearing puller. The bearing is 10x30x9, 6200z. The bearing cup can be found by searching "Craftsman Motor Armature Bearing Cup"
I just watched your three videos and thank you for making them. I had the exact same saw and problem and was able to fix my table saw because of you. thanks
Thank you for this. I had been left one of these with what seemed was the exact same problem. I followed your instructions exactly and fixed it. It workes!!! Thank you so much.
LOL You remind me of my dad. This is exactly what he would have done as well. And he was good at fixing everything! Now his health won't let him do anything like this anymore.
I throughly enjoyed your video, great lighting and a steady camera. I'm looking to buy a used craftsmen table saw tomorrow and wanted some general information. You gave me that and more. Thank you for your time and effort!
I did it! Well,you did it I just copied you! You mayhave a new direction in profession's. MySaw is 14 years old. Your instructional was superb! i was able to acquire all my parts locally and was super happy about that. great job Mr. BCTruck! Great job!
Wow! Excellent video sir! Not only are you a terrific table saw repair person, but you are very good at videoing your work. Very clear, could see everything. I'm impressed. Thanks for your video. I recently have had some issues with my Craftsman 10" table saw and need a part that doesn't seem to exist on any schematic. It's a pin on the screw type rod that comes off of the handle to lower or raise the motor so the blade raises or lowers. The pin goes thru a hole on a triangular piece that comes off the motor and it doesn't have anything on the other side of it to hold it in that hole. I was lowering it one day and it came out of the hole and the motor/blade fell down. That's when I realized the problem. Since then I've been leery of using it cause I'm afraid it'll come out of that hole while the blade is in use and that would be disastrous. So far I haven't found anyone around here that can help me. I've found more help online, lol. Thanks again for your expertise and sharing it with the public :)
oh boy... seems the kind of things that comes my way lol... ok, this time is not that bad... I just have to teardown, cleanup and lube my new (used) Craftsman. Mine is belt driven, but anyway, fun stuff for the weekend. Thanks for the video.
thanks for your time and efforts it is very helpful video but my suggestion is to have the Armature Bearing puller tool which is not expensive tool but saving your shaft from damaging, saving your time and headache as well, hope everyone can get benefit of it, thanks again and stay blessed!
Got the same saw, same issue. As I have several table saws, it is in storage for now. The housing melted and I will replace at least that part where the bearing sits, or replace the entire motor with a new system that will keep the dust out (the cause of the problem). A cheap pulley (wheel) puller will take off most bearings unless they are improperly sized.
great vid. i was fixin to tear mine apart but wanted to look for somebody that has done it. for insight. i do suspect mine is the same exact problem. but in the future remember every single bearing has a number punched on it. these numbers are universal. so you can go into any store and give them the number. i thought i saw some numbers on that one before you took it off, but wasnt sure. but, every single bearing, made by every manufacturer, has a id number. usually on the shield, if their shielded, if not it will be on the sides of the inner or outer ring
Got the same table saw and I love it. Used it for decades. Accurate and quick yet portable. And I had that same bearing seize up after cutting a bunch of 2x2 plastic "lumber" ("use it exactly like wood" they said) which blew plastic shavings all over (the shavings do NOT act just like wood, wood obeys gravity) and probably got into that same bearing cause it was completely bricked would not turn either direction. Bought a cheap Amazon bearing puller and had to use a 5" vise to hold the handle on the puller while turning the rotor and when the bearing finally broke loose the bang made me think the puller had exploded. Also made me wish I had been wearing safety glasses. Only 1 of the brushes showed wear, but whatever works. How did you get the new bearing back on?
I see someone else also made a comment about parts at Sears, they have an extensive line of parts or at least they used to I've bought many things to make them old sears item almost good as new. good luck with the project.
I wonder if another motor would cost less than a new unit, worth a thought. I have a wolf bench grinder that came to me with dead bearings and a blown up start capacitor, the local motorbike shop got the bearings for me and the capacitor was generic. That was 10 years ago and its such a handy tool, the tool rests/guards are thick metal unlike the rubbish made today. Im similar to you as i dont like to waste anything, like those bottle jacks you fixed a looooooooong time ago :-) lol.
you know,i just might get the part number and go their website an see if i can get a housing. i hate to waste anything that can be fixed within a reasonable price range. thanks for the suggestion!
I dont get why everyone is dissing this saw, mines fantastic; havent been able to find one that does all the same stuff for < $1000 (which is why I am looking for how to fix it on YT instead of pitching it). Maybe because mines old enough it was made in Taiwan instead of China?
I’m sure that’s the reason. The second craftsman went the greedy route and started having China manufacture their tolls, they became junk overnight and craft’s destroyed their image forever. Even now, decades later, the craftsman name is no better than harbor freight.
Thank you, took mine apart found same bearing bad, front one is perfect and still has grease on it. While searching for the motor to see what it would cost, found this video instead. Looks like it will save me from a new say. In the front of my motor there was like some chunks of melted black plastic real hard, looks real old. Motor still made a humming sound when it froze so I know the coils are good, just cannot figure the melted plastic. Cannot see where it possibly could have come from. But ordered the bearing on Amazon, $3 and $15 to ship it because I need it here ASAP. Thanks so much for this video.
After my cheap pawn shop tradesman benchtop table saw started smoking. I bought one of these for $45. When I started using the Craftsman it started making a bearing noise so I took both apart and they have the same bearing. Found it on ebay $3 ea free shipping.
i just did a rebuild on an old craftsman 100 table saw. i decided to replace the arbor bearings and took them to the bearing supply house to use to identify them. I tried 3 different brands and all of them were rough and actually made noise when turned. the old 1961 bearings were actually in better shape. I kept them. As far as Sears I haven't bought anything from them in years because of their changes. I was once a devout sears customet.
I have an RM872 motor on mine (probably the same motor), only mine has a broken fan. I don't want to run it for ANY amount of time with a broken fan disk. Any idea of where the fan disk could be purchased?
I was expecting to see some Harbor Freight saw, and I was surprised when it was a Craftsman. I've had HF tools crap out after only a few hours use. Still, 12 years isn't bad, and you do use that saw a lot...
Same here, I bought a hand grinder and hadn't used it until a couple of months later. Worked for less than 5 min. Went back to HF with box in mint condition. I was told "Sorry, you should have purchased the extended warranty." 5 Min of use, and I keep the box with that new unit as a paper weight to remind me never buy a F'n thing from Harbor Freight again.
that's a great tip! if i didn't live so far away from a sears (about 40 miles) i would definitely do that. i would use that much or more in gas in my very thirsty pickup getting there and back.
Thoroughly enjoyed your video because I have exactly the same problem with my saw motor. Bought the replacement bearing (6200ZZ) from Amazon, but am having trouble finding the sleeve/bushing that the bearing slides into . You statedthat you got this part from Sears, but I couldn't find it. Do you have the part number that I could use for ordering? Good job on a DIY project!
My table saw does the Same. Do you have a link for the parts I would need to fix it, I did take my motor apart and my bearings where the same as your video. Thanks for the informative video!
well ive tried that twice. once with a stanley thermos,and it worked. the second time with a pelican "heads up" head mounted light and they couldnt of cared less. i think im gonna cut my losses and aggravation on this one and just junk it.
I had the same exact failure on my craftsman tablesaw too. Cheap bearings! A small bearing splitter tool is the baby to get those press on bearings off.
We do a lot of golf cart electric motors and they are also pressed on bearings on them. We can usually get them off with a screwdriver. If you can't find a bearing check usa bearings and belts online.
I wish I had seen your video before I took my saw apart. Would have saved me a lot of time and hassle. I did find the bearing at a local bearing supply for $11.00 instead of the $19.60 that Craftsman wanted. And didn't have to wait on shipping. Mine was the same bearing.. Locked up tight.
well i guess when you think about it,i really have used the hell out of it and shouldnt complain. the fact that they have replacement parts is pretty danged impressive on its own.
just one more thing if you order parts like this again from any place like sears or maybe a department store to save on shiping always ask them if they can deliver it to the store and u will pick it up there because if they do they never charge for shiping because it will go out with the regular shipment to the store .... just something to think about and something they will never tell you. I have saved alot of money doing it that way.
Were you able to just use a Dremel cutoff wheel to remove the old locked up bearing? I'm about to perform the procedure but I want to do it right and not damage the end of the armature. Thank you in advance.
that's what I thought. at least with this one working I can get something for it. love your videos wish you were my neighbor but I don't think there's a chance getting you to move up to the Detroit area so I will have to settle for You tube keep up the good work.
Thanks! I used to pick up auto parts all over MI. detroit,flint,romulus,and haul them back home to the GM assembly plant. I like MI,,,,,,,but I hate cold and snow.
The same thing just happened to my saw. The bearing seized up. That rubber or plastic bushing is available to replace, but Sears did not sell the bearing. Problem is, they are willing to sell you a new motor that costs as much as a new saw. I googled the numbers on the side of the bearing, and found one on Amazon. I've yet to receive it. But from the measurements, I think it will work. I think that bushing is still usable, but you are probably right that the cuts may not be square. I think I will go ahead and order the rubber bushing because I can't afford a whole new saw at this point. I'm saving up for a pocket hole machine.
I just purchased one from Craigslist with a bad motor. Both bearings were shot, so I replaced them. 6200 and 6201. Realized the larger bearing on the output shaft was rough too, so I just bought that, a 6204. They are all standard sizes. I bought the rubber bushing and new plastic shroud (it had melted). Put it back together and it sparked like a mofo. Arbor commutators were damaged, so I turned them on the lathe and polished them. Putting back together tonight, hope it works otherwise this was a bad purchase.
ive decided to scrap it. the plsatic where the bearing rides is just to melted and i will end up with crooked cuts. if it wasnt so bad i would go ahead and spend the money on a new set of bearings and try t o get a few more years out of the old girl,but with the race being that far out of spec ill end up ruining more wood than its worth trying to save it.
gHow do you removed de motor shaf from tne transmission ,that may problem may be the transmission bearing. But not show how dismanteling thas parts. I think that shaft have a threw Did you record that separation parts?
Ok is already separated with a piece o wood as a hammer 1- take a rotor with one hand (transmission look to the floor) and hit the transmission by a wood in opposite side each time!
I have the exact same saw which I bought 10 years ago. I never really pushed it too hard and never heard it groaning with bearing problems. But one day it just wound not start. No groaning, just nothing. At first I thought it was my reset switch, o I replaced it. Then it ran for about a year. Then, for seemingly no reason it just failed to start...no groaning.
CHEAP Chinese bearings may be the worst, but GOOD Chinese bearings aren't. In the past two years alone I have refurbished 3 drills - including TWO Makita drills, an angle grinder an electric plane, a chop saw, a table saw, a vacuum cleaner, a dishwasher and tried to fix our washing machine! In ALL but the dishwasher (motor failed o/c after only 18 months!!) the bearings were shot. In some up to four bearings in others just one (but replaced both and kept the used working ones for emergencies or other non critical use). The washer could not be repaired due to truly appalling design which required removal of the whole drum assembly - not a problem - but then separation of the whole outer drum casing which had been ultrasonically welded tight (or appeared so) and in the end I had to use an angle grinder to get it apart. My wife had already decided she wanted a new one and had ordered it. Just as well as there was no way in hell I could have ever repaired the old one properly, or made it watertight again. However, in ALL the other cases the bearings, whilst not open, were steel sealed and NOT rubber sealed - hence "cheap" original manufacturer specified and fitted items. They have ALL been replaced by proper rubber sealed bearings from China and NONE, despite MUCH use since repair, has even given the slightest whimper of noise. The most complex thing is getting the right depth. On occasion the only bearings being available being 1mm over or under in depth but ALL have been obtained from eBay & fitted without any other problem. They have all been priced VERY low
Oh! And two more things - 1. Stuff from china costing a few ponds (bucks) gets shipped FREE or VERY low cost. Stuff I see from the US is sometimes FARCICAL with competitive product prices but shipping costs being up to FIVE OR SIX times (or MORE) the item price!! WTH!? 2. Use a gear/bearing puller DEFINITELY or you will have practically zero option other than to Dremel it off!
Good video. How did you remove the old bearing race in the base of the housing? Thanks. Come to think of it, where did you get the replacement race? Do you recall the part number?
Also it be done with fiberglass resin or even glass filled bondo for strength... You could even make a new back plate for the new bearing mount out of fiberglass if ya had too... Don't junk it man it's fixable
By the way, the cup that houses the bearing is not longer available anywhere. My son was going to print a 3D cup for the bearing if I needed to, there's a material that is usable and offers some vibration dampening as does the rubber cup.
well i actually got a better light and my glasses and gave it a better look. there was a plastic bushing that had melted. i ordered the bushing and a bearing and ill be up and running as soon as the parts come in. great idea though,ill file that away for future use.
@@bctruck thank you. I just found one that my neighbor was throwing out. Looking at the price of the bearing vs new motor and my liking of taking broken stuff apart and putting together for a new life makes it seem like it. Thank you
hi brad,I have the same craftsman tabe saw you had. same problem,got it apart and the bearing off. where is the part number to order the replacement? your help would be appreciated.
Its been 4 years since I did this video. To the best of my recolection,there is a number on the edge of the bearing. If there is,you can google that number and get it cheap online.
Thanks,I punched in that 6200z nomber and found a replacement bearing for 9 bucks 16 with shipping. Was it worth fixing for you in the long run? I've got my eye on that Delta contractors saw at lowes. Just can't afford it at the moment.
Roger Eden no. I ended up trading it off and buying the big dewalt contractors saw. It was never a terribly good saw to begin with but the new bearings didnt make it any better.
So what is the part number and where can I order it. Acording to Sears I can't order the bearing, model 137.24888 There are 2 bearings......one of them is on the 12A assembly
@@scottnerone3057 As I remember (in my case) I supported the gear/bearing between two blocks of wood and just hit the center with a hammer and drift....not without WD-40 of course 🤔
@@scottnerone3057 ...or I used a claw type puller. I did have to use a grinder one time to gently and patiently take down the material until it was so thin it slipped off with no problem. Either way unless the inner race hasn't welded itself to the shaft it should come off. I remember ordering both exact bearings from eReplacement for about 3 or 4 bucks a piece. I don't think they are still in business but local bearing companies should have 🙂
Just like your video showed, easy if you already have mechanical skills. I found that a high pressure air tube was great in cleaning out the motor. DO NOT USE OIL on the brushes.
With all due respect, Mr. BCtruck, I object to you or anyone letting manufacturers off the hook buy making a claim that "I got ten years out of this product and that was "cheap", but worth the price because I lasted until it failed. This claim merely sets up a scenario for manufacturers to build components that are expected to fail prematurely. I have purchased dozens of Craftsman electric tools as well as numerous minor brands and have only one (the Craftsman 137.248830) have a motor bearing seize up only after a few dozen hours of operation This is unacceptable. Obviously Sears made a decision to use a cheap bearing on the motor shaft inasmuch as so many Craftsman able saw owners have complained. Sub sequentially, I purchased a Timkin bearing of the same dimensions from my local Grainger outlet for less than 10 bucks and it ran beautifully for years without the slightest problem or heat build-up. Obviously some groveling bastard at Sears design department made a decision to provide wonderful features in the overall equipment, but totally unreliable in its drive system.
Oh get over yourself dude. This is a video showing folks how to repair a tablesaw. Go make your profound proclamations on quality somewhere else. I live in the real world and quality is only getting worse. Showing people how to fix junk is better than complaining about the fact that it’s junk.
my saw has worn out the brushes it appears all i have to do is replace them but i cant seem to find them, they look exactly like the ones you show in the video do you happen to know where i can find them? i tried sears but they said they don't have them and tried to sell me the entire motor.
I'm sorry but I don't have that saw any more. If it's not available on Sears website,I would take measurements and see if I could match them somewhere else.
If you enter amazon through my link amzn.to/3lhFqKz I get payed a small percentage of whatever you spend there. It doesn't cost you any more and I don't know what you've bought. Many thanks to those that do use my link. its greatly appreciated.
Thank you! Putting the armature in the freezer did the trick. Replaced the bearings in my twenty year-old Craftsman and am back at work.
Glad it worked for you!
Thanks for doing this, I had the same issue with my table saw, I got lucky though because the rubber cup was not damaged at all. So I replaced the bearing that I bought locally for about $5.00 taxes in and my table saw is good as new. The brushes on mine were really not worn at all. What a pain to reinstall the bolts on the motor to the bracket, my hands are kind of too big to get in there, got it done after quite a while. Thanks again for taking the time to make a video of it.
Apparently this is quite a common problem. I was just going to junk the saw, ( there's LOTS of bad things about this saw) and am just looking for a reason to buy a newer saw, but thought I'd try this fix and it worked like a charm ! Bought me a couple more years (I hope ) before having to upgrade. Thanks for posting this series ! This is EXACTLY what I love about youtube ! Education !
Glad it helped! If I had known how many people would have watched the video, I would have tried to do a better job filming.
I just fixed my table saw. I thought for sure I would need a new motor until I saw your video. Everything was spot on. Thanks
Great video, you did a super job of showing us how it was done. I usually use a two or three arm puller to pull the bearings off, if they haven't got so hot as to weld them on the shaft. Thanks for the video, you have helped all of us to understand better how to do this job.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
I work in an electric motor shop. We use a puller for pulley's to pull bearings off with and then press new ones on. When you have a plastic housing (end bell) like this, you might as well junk it. When the bearing gets hot and melts the plastic like that, the hole that holds the bearing gets out of round and will not hold the bearing in place and it will slip. If it had been a cast iron or stainless steel housing, you could had it fixed. If you use an air compressor and blow the saw dust out once in awhile it will help the bearings to last longer. The saw dust is so fine that it can even get inside of a totally enclosed motor and clogged it up. The first thing I recommend to customers when they call us about their saw motors is to blow them out. Sometimes the dust gets into the govenor or switches and damages them but that's a cheap fix. Also that little metal ring could be a slip (round circle that is open with 2 little wholes)ring which helps to hold the fan in place.
I like that your not afraid to rip into it.
I just followed this repair for my ailing Craftsman saw. It had been acting up for a while until it totally failed a few days ago. This repair worked perfectly!
Thanks for the bearing part # (in next video) -- this was invaluable!
Cut the outer race with my dremel, and was able to twist the inner race off with vice grips.
Whole job cost less than $10, and works as good as new!
Fantastic! I’m glad you were able to save it.
I'm really glad you posted this, mine died and I was able to figure out how to fix it because I found this series. Many thanks!!!!
Thank You! I was about ready to throw mine out until I watched your video and fixed my table saw. It was the brushes on my motor that were full of saw dust. Just opened the covers and blew it out. Now it works.
That's along time for a bench top type direct drive saw to be in service!!! It's an easy fix my man... The new bearing is the easy part - fixing the case is a bit of a challenge... Take your new bearing and wrap it Saran wrap so there is No wrinkles-pour some epoxy down where it seats then press the wrapped bearing into place- let dry and walla fixed:)
Im sure the bearing is common, look at the end plates for a 4 digit number, there are stacks of manufacturers that make bearings.
If you can afford it then replace the front bearing as well, then its covered for another 10 years lol :-)
Never apply any force to the outer of the bearing to install, use a tube to tap the center onto the clean clean shaft only.
I know you will win as long as you take your time mate :-)
I just bought this same saw this afternoon used for $50.00 in pretty sharp condition. The previous owner stated he thinks the motor is going out. I haven't even plugged it in yet, tomorrow I will see what awaits me as well. I think its great that your willing to attack the project, I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.
Jim Martin My son-in-laws 10Inch Craftsman wont run. He brought it over and I decided I would give it a shot. I found these videos by BCtruck which really help oriented me. I got the motor off and when I opened it up I found a "glob" of black plastic stuck to the armature at the saw blade end. I couldn't figure what it had been. I cut the plastic away from the armature and looked further into the motor. I found that the bearing at the other end was seized just like the video talks about. I then began my hunt for parts. I was able to get a new bearing, a new bushing and a new "Baffle" this last item appears to be what the black glob was before it melted. In BCTRruck video he makes no mention of the baffle but you can see it a one point on his work bench. I had to cut the bearing off with my Dremel just like he did.
The helpful hint about putting the armature in the freezer was a great tip. Another thing was that he says they don't show the rear bearing on the motor cutaway. They actually do but they only sell it with the whole new armature.
Funniest thing was the $1.99 bushing was available on Amazon but the shipping was $9.99 (rediculous but necessary).
Got it all back together and hit the switch, it spun and I felt a great sense of accomplishment as a 74 year old retired engineer.
One more thing , like somebody else said they found some semi-circle thin washers, probably used for shims but I couldn't figure where they fell from when I turned the saw over to begin the whole process. About $28 in parts, 6 hours of grandpa time (nearly worthless) and satisfaction of saving another tool, priceless
I found the same "washer". It was a sheet metal seal, part of the frozen bearing that had gotten flattened..
There are shims to square the blade with the table. Is it possible those are what you found?
Can you tell us how you were able to remove the armature? I’ve disassembled mine but I cannot get the armature out of the housing in order to place the new bearing on that end. I as well had to use a dremel to remove the bearing on the other end
What was the bushing part number?
I have this same issue. Thanks for sharing your vid. The bearing is pressed on. You need a bearing puller. The bearing is 10x30x9, 6200z. The bearing cup can be found by searching "Craftsman Motor Armature Bearing Cup"
I just watched your three videos and thank you for making them. I had the exact same saw and problem and was able to fix my table saw because of you. thanks
Great video. I have the same saw, same problem, and same solution. Helped a lot!
Awesome!
Thank you for this. I had been left one of these with what seemed was the exact same problem. I followed your instructions exactly and fixed it. It workes!!! Thank you so much.
LOL You remind me of my dad. This is exactly what he would have done as well. And he was good at fixing everything! Now his health won't let him do anything like this anymore.
I throughly enjoyed your video, great lighting and a steady camera. I'm looking to buy a used craftsmen table saw tomorrow and wanted some general information. You gave me that and more. Thank you for your time and effort!
thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
Thanks to your video I was able to more quickly figure out how to replace the bearing on the armature shaft - Thanks BC..
ShoreScout great! Happy it helped and thanks for taking the time to comment.
I did it! Well,you did it I just copied you! You mayhave a new direction in profession's. MySaw is 14 years old. Your instructional was superb! i was able to acquire all my parts locally and was super happy about that. great job Mr. BCTruck! Great job!
Wow! Excellent video sir! Not only are you a terrific table saw repair person, but you are very good at videoing your work. Very clear, could see everything. I'm impressed. Thanks for your video. I recently have had some issues with my Craftsman 10" table saw and need a part that doesn't seem to exist on any schematic. It's a pin on the screw type rod that comes off of the handle to lower or raise the motor so the blade raises or lowers. The pin goes thru a hole on a triangular piece that comes off the motor and it doesn't have anything on the other side of it to hold it in that hole. I was lowering it one day and it came out of the hole and the motor/blade fell down. That's when I realized the problem. Since then I've been leery of using it cause I'm afraid it'll come out of that hole while the blade is in use and that would be disastrous. So far I haven't found anyone around here that can help me. I've found more help online, lol. Thanks again for your expertise and sharing it with the public :)
Hey man, thank you so much for posting this had the same issue and was able to fix it with the help of your video!
oh boy... seems the kind of things that comes my way lol... ok, this time is not that bad... I just have to teardown, cleanup and lube my new (used) Craftsman. Mine is belt driven, but anyway, fun stuff for the weekend. Thanks for the video.
thanks! i ordered the parts and ill be making sawdust with it next week.
Awesome tutorial! Inspired me and gave me the confidence to o this myself! Thank you!
thanks for your time and efforts it is very helpful video but my suggestion is to have the Armature Bearing puller tool which is not expensive tool but saving your shaft from damaging, saving your time and headache as well, hope everyone can get benefit of it, thanks again and stay blessed!
Got the same saw, same issue. As I have several table saws, it is in storage for now. The housing melted and I will replace at least that part where the bearing sits, or replace the entire motor with a new system that will keep the dust out (the cause of the problem). A cheap pulley (wheel) puller will take off most bearings unless they are improperly sized.
Thanks , my saw had the exact same issue, new bearing was $6.00 . now as good as new
great vid. i was fixin to tear mine apart but wanted to look for somebody that has done it. for insight. i do suspect mine is the same exact problem. but in the future remember every single bearing has a number punched on it. these numbers are universal. so you can go into any store and give them the number. i thought i saw some numbers on that one before you took it off, but wasnt sure. but, every single bearing, made by every manufacturer, has a id number. usually on the shield, if their shielded, if not it will be on the sides of the inner or outer ring
Good troubleshooting. Hope it works out for you.
Got the same table saw and I love it. Used it for decades. Accurate and quick yet portable. And I had that same bearing seize up after cutting a bunch of 2x2 plastic "lumber" ("use it exactly like wood" they said) which blew plastic shavings all over (the shavings do NOT act just like wood, wood obeys gravity) and probably got into that same bearing cause it was completely bricked would not turn either direction. Bought a cheap Amazon bearing puller and had to use a 5" vise to hold the handle on the puller while turning the rotor and when the bearing finally broke loose the bang made me think the puller had exploded. Also made me wish I had been wearing safety glasses. Only 1 of the brushes showed wear, but whatever works.
How did you get the new bearing back on?
I put the motor in the freezer and the bearing warmed up in front of an electric heater. Slipped right on.
@@bctruck Never thought of that. Cool. Literally.
I see someone else also made a comment about parts at Sears, they have an extensive line of parts or at least they used to I've bought many things to make them old sears item almost good as new. good luck with the project.
I wonder if another motor would cost less than a new unit, worth a thought.
I have a wolf bench grinder that came to me with dead bearings and a blown up start capacitor, the local motorbike shop got the bearings for me and the capacitor was generic.
That was 10 years ago and its such a handy tool, the tool rests/guards are thick metal unlike the rubbish made today.
Im similar to you as i dont like to waste anything, like those bottle jacks you fixed a looooooooong time ago :-) lol.
you know,i just might get the part number and go their website an see if i can get a housing. i hate to waste anything that can be fixed within a reasonable price range. thanks for the suggestion!
They don't make stuff like they used to, but I believe when you get finished you will be able to run it for years!
I dont get why everyone is dissing this saw, mines fantastic; havent been able to find one that does all the same stuff for < $1000 (which is why I am looking for how to fix it on YT instead of pitching it). Maybe because mines old enough it was made in Taiwan instead of China?
I’m sure that’s the reason. The second craftsman went the greedy route and started having China manufacture their tolls, they became junk overnight and craft’s destroyed their image forever. Even now, decades later, the craftsman name is no better than harbor freight.
Man good for you -- this video was great and right on with my problem. Ill see if I can do what you did. this was a confidence builder for me.
THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! I decided to do what you showed in your video.
Thank you, took mine apart found same bearing bad, front one is perfect and still has grease on it. While searching for the motor to see what it would cost, found this video instead. Looks like it will save me from a new say.
In the front of my motor there was like some chunks of melted black plastic real hard, looks real old. Motor still made a humming sound when it froze so I know the coils are good, just cannot figure the melted plastic. Cannot see where it possibly could have come from. But ordered the bearing on Amazon, $3 and $15 to ship it because I need it here ASAP. Thanks so much for this video.
well i ordered the parts. ill have my saw up and running in a few days. thanks for the advice.
a bearing like that could be taken off with a pickle fork possibly, like the kind that you use for steering assembly work.
After my cheap pawn shop tradesman benchtop table saw started smoking. I bought one of these for $45. When I started using the Craftsman it started making a bearing noise so I took both apart and they have the same bearing. Found it on ebay $3 ea free shipping.
Most of the people don't use a car for 12 years, but a saw? That was a pretty good saw right there!
i just did a rebuild on an old craftsman 100 table saw. i decided to replace the arbor bearings and took them to the bearing supply house to use to identify them. I tried 3 different brands and all of them were rough and actually made noise when turned. the old 1961 bearings were actually in better shape. I kept them. As far as Sears I haven't bought anything from them in years because of their changes. I was once a devout sears customet.
thanks! i ordered my parts and ill be putting it back together as soon as they come in.
I have an RM872 motor on mine (probably the same motor), only mine has a broken fan. I don't want to run it for ANY amount of time with a broken fan disk. Any idea of where the fan disk could be purchased?
I was expecting to see some Harbor Freight saw, and I was surprised when it was a Craftsman. I've had HF tools crap out after only a few hours use. Still, 12 years isn't bad, and you do use that saw a lot...
Same here, I bought a hand grinder and hadn't used it until a couple of months later. Worked for less than 5 min. Went back to HF with box in mint condition. I was told "Sorry, you should have purchased the extended warranty." 5 Min of use, and I keep the box with that new unit as a paper weight to remind me never buy a F'n thing from Harbor Freight again.
that's a great tip! if i didn't live so far away from a sears (about 40 miles) i would definitely do that. i would use that much or more in gas in my very thirsty pickup getting there and back.
Thoroughly enjoyed your video because I have exactly the same problem with my saw motor. Bought the replacement bearing (6200ZZ) from Amazon, but am having trouble finding the sleeve/bushing that the bearing slides into . You statedthat you got this part from Sears, but I couldn't find it. Do you have the part number that I could use for ordering? Good job on a DIY project!
I’m sorry but it’s been years since I did this. I don’t even have this anymore. I now have a DeWalt contractor saw.
My table saw does the Same. Do you have a link for the parts I would need to fix it, I did take my motor apart and my bearings where the same as your video. Thanks for the informative video!
well ive tried that twice. once with a stanley thermos,and it worked. the second time with a pelican "heads up" head mounted light and they couldnt of cared less. i think im gonna cut my losses and aggravation on this one and just junk it.
Ditto here. Same model of sears table saw, about 18 year sold, same bearing part number. $3.95. Fixed.
Where did you order the bearing. I am having a hard time finding one.
I had the same exact failure on my craftsman tablesaw too. Cheap bearings!
A small bearing splitter tool is the baby to get those press on bearings off.
We do a lot of golf cart electric motors and they are also pressed on bearings on them. We can usually get them off with a screwdriver. If you can't find a bearing check usa bearings and belts online.
I wish I had seen your video before I took my saw apart. Would have saved me a lot of time and hassle. I did find the bearing at a local bearing supply for $11.00 instead of the $19.60 that Craftsman wanted. And didn't have to wait on shipping. Mine was the same bearing.. Locked up tight.
well i guess when you think about it,i really have used the hell out of it and shouldnt complain. the fact that they have replacement parts is pretty danged impressive on its own.
just one more thing if you order parts like this again from any place like sears or maybe a department store to save on shiping always ask them if they can deliver it to the store and u will pick it up there because if they do they never charge for shiping because it will go out with the regular shipment to the store .... just something to think about and something they will never tell you. I have saved alot of money doing it that way.
thanks. my ryobi has the same problem. Now just have to pull the pos bearing. I will be replacing it with a Japanese sealed type.
Were you able to just use a Dremel cutoff wheel to remove the old locked up bearing? I'm about to perform the procedure but I want to do it right and not damage the end of the armature. Thank you in advance.
Put the entire thing in the freezer for a few hours. The bearing will come off much easier.
that's what I thought. at least with this one working I can get something for it. love your videos wish you were my neighbor but I don't think there's a chance getting you to move up to the Detroit area so I will have to settle for You tube keep up the good work.
Thanks! I used to pick up auto parts all over MI. detroit,flint,romulus,and haul them back home to the GM assembly plant. I like MI,,,,,,,but I hate cold and snow.
thansk good tips! if i hadnt found the parts i would have tried it.
thanks for the advice! ill be using it next week.
The same thing just happened to my saw. The bearing seized up. That rubber or plastic bushing is available to replace, but Sears did not sell the bearing. Problem is, they are willing to sell you a new motor that costs as much as a new saw. I googled the numbers on the side of the bearing, and found one on Amazon. I've yet to receive it. But from the measurements, I think it will work. I think that bushing is still usable, but you are probably right that the cuts may not be square. I think I will go ahead and order the rubber bushing because I can't afford a whole new saw at this point. I'm saving up for a pocket hole machine.
I just purchased one from Craigslist with a bad motor. Both bearings were shot, so I replaced them. 6200 and 6201. Realized the larger bearing on the output shaft was rough too, so I just bought that, a 6204. They are all standard sizes. I bought the rubber bushing and new plastic shroud (it had melted). Put it back together and it sparked like a mofo. Arbor commutators were damaged, so I turned them on the lathe and polished them. Putting back together tonight, hope it works otherwise this was a bad purchase.
sorry about your dad. i hope i can fix or at least take things apart till im dead. i go crazy not being able to do things with my hands.
ive decided to scrap it. the plsatic where the bearing rides is just to melted and i will end up with crooked cuts. if it wasnt so bad i would go ahead and spend the money on a new set of bearings and try t o get a few more years out of the old girl,but with the race being that far out of spec ill end up ruining more wood than its worth trying to save it.
Hey im curious how you got the threads that hold the blade off so you could get to the bearing... PLEASE HELP! thanks man
gHow do you removed de motor shaf from tne transmission ,that may problem may be the transmission bearing. But not show how dismanteling thas parts. I think that shaft have a threw Did you record that separation parts?
Ok is already separated with a piece o wood as a hammer 1- take a rotor with one hand (transmission look to the floor) and hit the transmission by a wood in opposite side each time!
it's a press fit. a bearing puller works great
I puit the stator in the freezer for an hour and the took it out and hit the bearing with a torch for a few seconds. It fell right off.
do they even make anything that isnt junk?
I did it! With your help! Thank you and thanks to everyone else's helpful comments! AWESOME! *Eat my saw dust*
I have the exact same saw which I bought 10 years ago. I never really pushed it too hard and never heard it groaning with bearing problems. But one day it just wound not start. No groaning, just nothing. At first I thought it was my reset switch, o I replaced it. Then it ran for about a year. Then, for seemingly no reason it just failed to start...no groaning.
CHEAP Chinese bearings may be the worst, but GOOD Chinese bearings aren't. In the past two years alone I have refurbished 3 drills - including TWO Makita drills, an angle grinder an electric plane, a chop saw, a table saw, a vacuum cleaner, a dishwasher and tried to fix our washing machine! In ALL but the dishwasher (motor failed o/c after only 18 months!!) the bearings were shot. In some up to four bearings in others just one (but replaced both and kept the used working ones for emergencies or other non critical use).
The washer could not be repaired due to truly appalling design which required removal of the whole drum assembly - not a problem - but then separation of the whole outer drum casing which had been ultrasonically welded tight (or appeared so) and in the end I had to use an angle grinder to get it apart. My wife had already decided she wanted a new one and had ordered it. Just as well as there was no way in hell I could have ever repaired the old one properly, or made it watertight again.
However, in ALL the other cases the bearings, whilst not open, were steel sealed and NOT rubber sealed - hence "cheap" original manufacturer specified and fitted items. They have ALL been replaced by proper rubber sealed bearings from China and NONE, despite MUCH use since repair, has even given the slightest whimper of noise. The most complex thing is getting the right depth. On occasion the only bearings being available being 1mm over or under in depth but ALL have been obtained from eBay & fitted without any other problem. They have all been priced VERY low
Oh! And two more things -
1. Stuff from china costing a few ponds (bucks) gets shipped FREE or VERY low cost. Stuff I see from the US is sometimes FARCICAL with competitive product prices but shipping costs being up to FIVE OR SIX times (or MORE) the item price!! WTH!?
2. Use a gear/bearing puller DEFINITELY or you will have practically zero option other than to Dremel it off!
Good video. How did you remove the old bearing race in the base of the housing? Thanks.
Come to think of it, where did you get the replacement race? Do you recall the part number?
Im sorry but its been 5 years since i did this and I just cant remember.
doing same repair. how does armature come out of the metal housing? is that bearing near fan pressed into the metal?
ill look into either another motor or another outer casing for my old motor.
Let me know where did you get the bearings from?
From the inter webs. The bearing should have a number on the edge. Just google it.
Also it be done with fiberglass resin or even glass filled bondo for strength... You could even make a new back plate for the new bearing mount out of fiberglass if ya had too... Don't junk it man it's fixable
By the way, the cup that houses the bearing is not longer available anywhere. My son was going to print a 3D cup for the bearing if I needed to, there's a material that is usable and offers some vibration dampening as does the rubber cup.
Greetings from Puerto Rico. What model is that saw?
Sorry man. This video is 7 years old. I have a dewalt contractors saw now.
@@bctruck No prob. Thanks
How did you get the armature out of the gearbox? What is the trick for that?
I did this so long ago that I don’t remember. Sorry I couldn’t be of any help.
Struggling with the same issue
That was a good video.
well i actually got a better light and my glasses and gave it a better look. there was a plastic bushing that had melted. i ordered the bushing and a bearing and ill be up and running as soon as the parts come in. great idea though,ill file that away for future use.
Some body has a link to the motor by the way ??
How did you remove the armature from the blade housing? mine is stuck andi cannot access the forward bearings.
Was it worth the amount of work or would you recommend a new motor?
It was worth it.
@@bctruck thank you. I just found one that my neighbor was throwing out. Looking at the price of the bearing vs new motor and my liking of taking broken stuff apart and putting together for a new life makes it seem like it. Thank you
The brushes are smoking what can be the problem
I wish I could help but I'm afraid Id have to see the motor to tell you what I think.
i only forged ahead with the advice of all the good folks that commented. so i guess i owe them all time on the table saw when they need it.
i had to cut it off with my dremel. it was on there for at least 12 years.it wasnt coming off easy.
hi brad,I have the same craftsman tabe saw you had. same problem,got it apart and the bearing off. where is the part number to order the replacement? your help would be appreciated.
Its been 4 years since I did this video. To the best of my recolection,there is a number on the edge of the bearing. If there is,you can google that number and get it cheap online.
Thanks,I punched in that 6200z nomber and found a replacement bearing for 9 bucks 16 with shipping. Was it worth fixing for you in the long run? I've got my eye on that Delta contractors saw at lowes. Just can't afford it at the moment.
Roger Eden no. I ended up trading it off and buying the big dewalt contractors saw. It was never a terribly good saw to begin with but the new bearings didnt make it any better.
thanks! i knew it had a proper name besides "thingy"
So what is the part number and where can I order it. Acording to Sears I can't order the bearing, model 137.24888 There are 2 bearings......one of them is on the 12A assembly
There is a number on the bearing. That bearing can be bought through any place that sells bearings
thats what ill do. just wait for a sale at harbour freight. the plastic housing is just to melted to justify spending any money on it.
How did you break open the front part of the motor to get at the front bearing?
Did you ever get yours apart? If so would you care to share what procedures need to be taken for its removal?
@@scottnerone3057 As I remember (in my case) I supported the gear/bearing between two blocks of wood and just hit the center with a hammer and drift....not without WD-40 of course 🤔
@Michael Oak, thanks, I’ll see if I can get it off using your method
@@scottnerone3057 ...or I used a claw type puller. I did have to use a grinder one time to gently and patiently take down the material until it was so thin it slipped off with no problem. Either way unless the inner race hasn't welded itself to the shaft it should come off. I remember ordering both exact bearings from eReplacement for about 3 or 4 bucks a piece. I don't think they are still in business but local bearing companies should have 🙂
Where is the capacitor? I am trying to repair the same motor. Cannot locate capacitor
It’s been to many years. I can’t remember.
Hi, does anyone know where to buy the helix gear? 87840171 Sears doesnt have it.
Just like your video showed, easy if you already have mechanical skills. I found that a high pressure air tube was great in cleaning out the motor. DO NOT USE OIL on the brushes.
With all due respect, Mr. BCtruck, I object to you or anyone letting manufacturers off the hook buy making a claim that "I got ten years out of this product and that was "cheap", but worth the price because I lasted until it failed. This claim merely sets up a scenario for manufacturers to build components that are expected to fail prematurely. I have purchased dozens of Craftsman electric tools as well as numerous minor brands and have only one (the Craftsman 137.248830) have a motor bearing seize up only after a few dozen hours of operation This is unacceptable. Obviously Sears made a decision to use a cheap bearing on the motor shaft inasmuch as so many Craftsman able saw owners have complained. Sub sequentially, I purchased a Timkin bearing of the same dimensions from my local Grainger outlet for less than 10 bucks and it ran beautifully for years without the slightest problem or heat build-up. Obviously some groveling bastard at Sears design department made a decision to provide wonderful features in the overall equipment, but totally unreliable in its drive system.
Oh get over yourself dude. This is a video showing folks how to repair a tablesaw. Go make your profound proclamations on quality somewhere else. I live in the real world and quality is only getting worse. Showing people how to fix junk is better than complaining about the fact that it’s junk.
my saw has worn out the brushes it appears all i have to do is replace them but i cant seem to find them, they look exactly like the ones you show in the video do you happen to know where i can find them? i tried sears but they said they don't have them and tried to sell me the entire motor.
I'm sorry but I don't have that saw any more. If it's not available on Sears website,I would take measurements and see if I could match them somewhere else.
thanks man i appreciate it
Put that nice Axe to that craftsman