Hi there Dave, I have been out of mountain biking for over 25 years and am considering an eMTB. I like your channel and enjoying the tech and tips. I click like on all your videos and subscribed. Thank you Sir!!
I Just found you making these Vid. It's winter time here in Québec, so the bike is very accessible therefor as a mechanic from the past I fell in love in the way you explain things. I worked for Pratt&Whitney as a Quality Assurance worker. Love It !
Thanks for posting this - I checked my Trek Rail 7 this morning before going out for a ride and found exactly the same problem with chainring with the lock ring completely disengaged. I hadn't noticed any issues on my last ride so hopefully it's just happened. Unfortunately I don't have the right tools to get the E-Thirteen crank off so I will have to go into the shop. It looks like its a Bosch setup as the chainring lock ring is the same as on the Rail 5, even though the crankset is different. Doesn't seem fit or purpose for an EMTB which will take some punishment on rough trails. Thanks again for the video - its saved me doing any more damage. Hope your cough has got better!
Thats great you checked it. Ebikes need a bit more attention, give it a good look over on a regular basis. Check the rear wheel spoke tension too. The cough is getting better now thanks.
Loctite 243 makes all the difference for not rattling loose! Also lubricates and stops corrosion/oxidiation etc. Which he uses ❤ also pro tip is to always grease ur crank arms and pedal threads to eliminate clicking sounds on pedalling. Brilliant video man! 👍
Hi , myTrek Rail 5 had the same issue from the factory chain skipping, the chain was too long and the derailleur was not putting enough tension on the chain when in high gears, shortening the chain fix it. cheers for the video.
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic I am, unfortunately I won’t get it till the new year lol shortage I guess and long wait times. Look forward to watching more of your vids and getting up to speed on the mechanics of the rail bike :) thanks again 👍
That chain looks to be 2 links too long by the looks of the derailleur position when in the smallest gear, not enough chain tension being provided by the derailleur. People often buy a chain and just fit and not count the number of links the original chain. Note though I have seen some brand new bikes shipped with chains that are 2 links to long. New chains that are sold for a specific gear cluster speed are longer to cater for diffident chain stay lengths and different distances between rear wheel and crank centre.
Larger Chainring: I changed out my smaller 32 tooth chain ring for a larger 38 tooth. This reduced cadence and corrected loose chain tension. My bike also had a worn bearing noise when new. I changed out the front wheel and noise dissappeared.
Thanks for that, its true, a little sag allowance gives a better all round adjustment. This is more applicable to bikes that have a non articulate rear triangle. I will make another video about it as some bikes need more allowance than others. Hardtails don't suffer from this and need no allowance.
Thanks Mr. Dave. I have a Marlin7 which I converted to an ebike and after a few months of riding, my derailleur busted all of a sudden. That and what you're saying about the amount of force going through the drivetrain made me realize how fragile the components are. Thanks for your input. Wondering if this is a Trek/ Shimano issue or if other ebike manufacturers are experiencing the same.
I,m having rotor rub problems with my rail 5 and I,m finding 4 pots a nightmare to adjust correctly. Update i found out my front wheel wasn't tightened enough by the bike shop when they built it and after doing it , its running beautifully
I've got a Rail 9.7 which had a NX groupset straight out of the factory. The amount of chains and cassettes I changed in the first 6 months of owning it was crazy, it should've been done on warranty; however, these items are part of the 'consumables' and thus not covered - they just weren't hardwearing enough to handle the E-bike torque/power for long periods of time. Last June I switched to Shimano XT and have just recently replaced the chain (not cassette or chainring) after 1000 miles.... my advise would be to upgrade when you replace and not go like for like.....
I found the opposite Mine came with the GX as standard. I've downgraded to the NX CASSETTES AND CHAIN after my GX gave up at 757 miles. The NX chain and cassette going strong at 1678 miles... all steal makes a difference mate of mine on his Ebike mullard a XT cassette in 500 miles and has switched to NX...
@@phantombigballs8165 Cool, glad you've had success with the lower costing items. The NX cassettes I went through wasn't about wear, it was them snapping sections of 3-4 teeth on the bigger cogs between the joining pins, mostly the 36T cog.
@@phantombigballs8165 Cool, glad you've had success with the lower costing items. The NX cassettes I went through wasn't about wear, it was them snapping sections of 3-4 teeth on the bigger cogs between the joining pins, mostly the 36T cog.
I think that there is an o-ring missing in that job. Between the plate and the nut that threads left, there is an o-ring missing so that it does not come loose. If you check the manual, you will see that you have to put an o-ring in that place, it comes pre-installed from the factory, but it is so thin that when you disassemble the plate you have lost it.
Brilliant video - just picked up a rail 7 and want to learn how to do everything on the bike. Would you be able to list the tools needed to remove the motor/crank? Thanks so much.
Hi, Thanks for watching and your comments.some of the tools required are specific to the motor. I would not advise motor removal unless you are very confident.
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic ah ok I have read issues of the mounting bolts coming loose.. so was going to routinely strip and rebuild it without laying a fortune to a local shop
Many thanks for the upload. I have problem with a Rail 7.. The lockring's are rubbish, and keep coming loose.. Also had numerous bearing problems too - Trek need to stop putting cheap components on their expesive bikes.. Dont expect a 5k bike to blow its bearings after only 1300 mile.
Subscribed mate. Hope you're feeling well after the Vax now. The lockring came loose on my focus jam2 also, locktite did the trick. Agree on the drivetrain, I think on these motors 10speed and a bit beefier would greatly increase maintenance interval.
The Bosch motor on my 2020 Trek Rail 9.8 has always had a rattle while descending. Is this just an inherent trait on the Bosch Performance Line CX? Drives me crazy!
Rightly or wrongly, when checking the hanger, I always use the same point on the wheel for all four measuring points. To me it eliminates any deviation in the trueness in the wheel. Ref the chain issue, I always run two chains, swapping them roughly every 300 miles. It seems to work for me, extending component times. To end, I am also not a fan of SRAM components. They seem more finicky to set up and to keep running smoothly, than Shimano components.
Awesome as always … !! Can you help me find the correct cable to plug into the bottom of the display on my 2022 Rail 9.7 ? It’s an oddly shaped port and I think I can charge my GoPro if I have the proper cable.
Hi Johnny, depending on the type of charging port you have on your gopro would depend on which lead you need. this thread will help you. electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/how-to-power-a-usb-c-phone-from-a-bosch-intuvia.25818/
Really informative. Just a question when setting the B screw with the SRAM tool. Should the sag not have been allowed for then set the hole onnthe tool to the derailleur??
Hi, thanks for watching, the answer is yes, well spotted,. It’s interesting to see how much distance the screw centre is away from the b screw tool when the bike is sat with no weight on, it’s normally around 5mm
Dave. I am trying to get my crank arm off to change the drive sprocket, but the crank arm bolt is stuck tight. I have put the bike on its side and applied molecule 13 penetrating oil, applied heat to the crank arm around the bolt and even used an impact driver. No luck! Any tips? I dont want to bugger up the hex in the bolt. UPDATE: I just had to be bold and put an extension tube on the key and heave! Success! For anyone else doing it just be aware it needs a LOT of force! Use a good quality 8mm allen key and it undos ANTI CLOCKWISE i.e. the conventional way
Hi john, ideally it’s better to apply freeze to the area around the crank head but not the 8mm hex bolt, if this is not possible use a 1meter long 1/2 socket bar and a good 8mm hex key socket . If you don’t have one then your going to have to drill the bolt head off
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic well its off now with a bit of tube to extend the leverage. I was surprised the impact driver didn't work but maybe because its a fairly cheap low power one! Though it works miracles on wood screws! Anyway now making a home made tool to get the special nut off that holds the chainring. 40mm dia metal tube with 8 evenly spaced 4mm lugs. Better than paying 40 quid!
Why did you put grease on a chainring that is keyed to fit the spindle and does not spin free of the spindle. And then on top of that how do you expect lock right to hold if it's got grease on the threads?
hi, i stumbled acoss your channel whilst trying to find the answer to a question no one on the entire internet seems to be able to answer and thought if anyone knows this man will so here goes. i'm trying to track a clicking sound on my trek rail 9 and pretty sure its the mount plate bolts but nowhere can i find the torque figures to what these boilts should be. i can find the torx t30 figures but mine has t25. oh and of course great channel
Hi Richie, thanks for your comments. I'm not surprised you can find them, Bosch don't really list a list for the internal mounting plates, It's a recommendation only, these are approx 15.9nm.
I've got a rail 5 and the motor is making a creaking noise when first putting it under load and again when stopping peddling. Any ideas what the cause could be as I can't find any loose bolts? Love the video. Very helpful for the eagle set up.👍
Hi, thanks for watching. This is going to be a process of elimination, you have said that you have checked the following Crank arm bolts Pedals Motor fitting bolts It’ sounds like a mechanical creak, so you need to check the suspension pivots for wear and movement, including the shock mounts, and headset for movement or wear. Check your rear axel for tightness, use your back wheel as a lever to check for movement and noises.
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic thanks for the reply. I have checked everything and cannot find anything loose. The motor is also not picking up as quick. It sometimes takes half a rotation before the motor kicks in. The bike is only 4 mont old and I may have to send it to a trek dealer under warranty. I'm based in Leeds and will look for a local dealer as I bought the bike in Chester. I'll let you know the findings.👍
Sometimes my Rail 5 made a slight scrubbing noise that resonated thru aluminum frame while coasting. The noise was not loud, but it did bother me. Today while lubing the chain with rear tire lifted, i notice when wheel was rotated forward a heard this same scrubbing noise (NOISEY HUB). So i removed wheel and lightly oiled bearings in rear hub, problem solved. Is this a common problem with Rail 5. I may take bike in for warranty service. Love this bike BTW
Hi, thanks for your comments, it’s interesting to hear about everyone’s little noises and creaks, unfortunately noises can appear at any time not just on the rail but any bike, sometimes it’s easier to fix them than find where the noise is from, everything from the motor backwards needs more maintenance on an ebike. Keep checking it often, enjoy your bike,
Well good was that ..I’ve got the Kenevo so will def be subscribing ....nice vid 👍...what do you reckon to KMC E11 EPT chains are they worth the extra cost ? ....Cheers mate 👍
Hi, Thanks for watching, from experience and to be blunt, no. You can prolong a normal chain, ring and cassette wear drastically by just being careful when changing gear, cleaning and lubrication, there are other factors like riding conditions but essentially your riding a brilliant mountain bike thats capable of doing things that others without batteries cant do. It's a trade off i'm afraid.
Get a gargle chief, it sounds sore, good informative vid, I,m still thinking of EBIKE selection and the trek is on the list, do you know if the head angle on the rail is the same from 5- 9..about 64- 65 degrees?
Are you saying that when you need to change your chain, that you have to change your cassette and chainring at the same time? Can't you just change the chain when it is less worn than when you would traditionally change it? Is there a slower wearing chain you could recommended that would help preserve the life of your cassette and chainring?
Hi Tony, Thanks for watching, looking at a scenario, say for example you have just bought bike and everything is brand new, every week you check your chain for wear, when it gets to between 0.50 and 0.75 on the chain gauge change the chain only for a brand new one. when you get to the 3rd chain, change the cassette and front ring for a new, and then start all over again. Extending the life of the drivetrain is simply done by changing gear carefully, no clunks, change gear with little or no power, clean and lube it weekly. buy branded parts, not the cheapest but not the most expensive. Hope this makes sense. Ive done a short video on chain tools, if you have not seen it ruclips.net/video/GGFR_9LF1Lk/видео.html. If you know of others that would find this info please share. Thanks
My Rail 5 will ghost shift if the chain needs lube. When gears start jumping around i know it is time to lube the chain. I use Purple Extreme chain lube. I think it is the best for lubing chain, noisy bearings or whatever.
Hi, Providing that you replace your chain a little bit before 0.75 stretch there is no reason why you shouldn't get 3 chains worth before a fresh cassette and front ring is fitted, but having said that I have had many customers have needed a new chain at only 200 miles, it all depends on how hard you want to ride it and how kind you kind you are when changing gear and of course cleaning. Also e-bike specific chains don't make a massive difference. Hope this helps.
Hi have the same bike you are working on on video everything works OK on it but one problem and it does my head in and there is alot of creaking noise when I ride bike and my mate has the same bike as me and his one creaks aswell can you point me in the right place from where it's coming from. Thanks Geoff
Hi Geoff, Thanks for watching. Creaks can come from lots of different places on your bike, from a rear wheel thats not quite tight on the maxle to a cable, headset or suspension linkage, seatpost and so on,. its a process of elimination but check for side to side movement in your suspension by wiggling the rear wheel side to side, check bearing movement, play. notchyness.
Hi Dave, great video. I’d love to say loved looking at it but I’d be lying, turns out my 4 month old trek rail 9.8 xt has the same identical problem as the bike in your video. But on my bike the cassette is shredded as well, that is the 3 smallest cogs, I noticed slipping through them on my last ride, chain was barely at 0.5 wear. So I have 3 questions 1; is the loose chainring in your opinion (partly) to blame for the (excessive) wear to my cassette? 2; do you feel as an expect mechanic that I should claim these costs with the seller of my bike? I’m asking because I bought it through a website and if I’m going to cause havoc with them I’d like to know I’m right with my facts. I promise not to mention you in any way shape or form ✌🏻 3. I saw a large German website sell the loose cogs for the xt cassette as separate items. If I were only to replace all of those loose cogs instead of the whole cassette would that be something worth trying? Or should I eat the cost and just replace the whole thing?
Hi, Thanks for watching, I will try and answer your questions best I can. 1, It's not likely that your loose front chainring caused the damage to your cassette. 2, This is a difficult one to answer but If you buy your bike from a website and its delivered in a box much of the responsibility is your own to make sure that its built correctly and fit for purpose, however this is a grey area because some shops will build the bike up, check it all then disassemble it, put it back in the box and sent it out to you, have you got a PDI List completed by the shop?, you have not said how many miles the bike has done and has it been maintained. I would say that in the long run it will be easier and cheaper just to replace the cassette. 3, you can replace the sprockets that are slipping, have you measured your chain stretch? Hope this helps Dave
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic thanks again for your time. Honestly I find it awesome you take the time to answer questions like mine, they’re many channels that dont bother at all… so really thankful that you do, You really help a newbie like myself to learn more about the technical aspects of bike mechanics. I’m not sure what a dpi list is but yes they build it up then removed the handlebar and shipped it in a box. I already had some issues with other bolts they didn’t torque up to spec and I called them out for. The guy I’ve been emailing with already acknowledged that and said head have a chat with the guys from shipping because that wasn’t the level of service they’re supposed to ship out. To answer your other question yes I had it serviced 4 weeks ago at the 500 km mark by my local trek and bosch dealer, he’s also supposed to be ‘the’ specialist bike shop for the greater area. atm it’s at 900 km mark, and yes I check my chain after every single ride to prevent exactly what just happened, having to change the whole damn lot, chain and cassette, which you undoubtedly know 12 speed xt isn’t cheap at all.
@@visserswp Hi, Thank you for the kind words, A big part of my channel is to try and help others that ask for help, it's the least at can do. Yes 12 speed stuff inc sram is expensive and other brands are getting that way too.
Just saw your video; when you checked the chain you said it was” .50 so lots of life left in it”. But those guys from embn and gmbn tech always say that if you replace the chain at .50 you can have 2 or 3 chain worn before you have to replace the cassette. What’s your opinion on that? Any truth in it?
Great videos Dave, very helpful, I know this is an older video now, but wanted to comment on the chain stretch, EBike chains should really be replaced at 0.5, not 0.75 as you mentioned. You’re probably aware by now but thought I’d mention it, keep up the great vids 👍🏻
It's less the e bike and more the speeds. Shimano 11 and 12 need replacing at 0.5. If you allow to get to 0.75 you will find you'll need to replace rings and cassette at the same time. Or just let the lot run to 1 and replace. If you replace at 0.5 you'll get multiple chains before you need to replace cassette and chainrings
Great vid and really helpful. My Rail 9.7 is having shifting issues, all alignment looks good but spotted a tonne of play in my rear hub so time to replace the bearings. Man these ebikes chew through parts! Also I wore out my NX mech after 1000 miles, it’s not fit for purpose, hopefully will have more miles out of the GX I replaced it with.
Unless thats cassette has done 1000s. But like say force in an ebike the torque. Good stuff. Im after 23 rail 5. But will be changing cassette to black on day one.
bet you wish you put that chain back on the crank before you tightened it all up because of that chain guard in the way... would have saved the customer a new lock link :) More importantly... where's the Liquorice
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic true, but mine's very slack in top. The rear mech is at its limit with slack chain. Could do with a link out mayhap, though of course when pedalling its tight on top and when not, the chain's not moving anyway!
no one is saying that the sram udh is utter crap,made to snap wtf, i just payed 6 grand cash,beyond gutted.250 miles and its still snapped in half in the carbon frame,drilled it cut it and the thing is still their,bike upside down on its back,so dave ill give you a marin ovation in chrome with mazochi shivers no wheels on it ,handle bars and stem plus fox vanilla float to fix my new sram udh in and remove the last bit as its scary drilling round carbon on a brand new bike.i livein stalybridge borderingduky,offer to only you dave as you i trust only,my partis ready to go in,
Stop spraying that area with brake cleaner,it will work its way round the seal and into the bearing😬🤯,thats a massive no no ,and give ye self another job and split the chain to put it back on 🤣😂
Hi there Dave, I have been out of mountain biking for over 25 years and am considering an eMTB. I like your channel and enjoying the tech and tips. I click like on all your videos and subscribed. Thank you Sir!!
Thank you, Enjoy the videos
These videos are fantastic! Really nice to see someone go through the troubleshooting process in the way you do.
Much appreciated! Thank you
Thank you
I Just found you making these Vid. It's winter time here in Québec, so the bike is very accessible therefor as a mechanic from the past I fell in love in the way you explain things. I worked for Pratt&Whitney as a Quality Assurance worker. Love It !
Hi Martin, thanks for watching and your comments. Canada is one of the places I would like to visit, jet engines fascinate me too.
Thanks for posting this - I checked my Trek Rail 7 this morning before going out for a ride and found exactly the same problem with chainring with the lock ring completely disengaged. I hadn't noticed any issues on my last ride so hopefully it's just happened. Unfortunately I don't have the right tools to get the E-Thirteen crank off so I will have to go into the shop. It looks like its a Bosch setup as the chainring lock ring is the same as on the Rail 5, even though the crankset is different. Doesn't seem fit or purpose for an EMTB which will take some punishment on rough trails. Thanks again for the video - its saved me doing any more damage. Hope your cough has got better!
Thats great you checked it. Ebikes need a bit more attention, give it a good look over on a regular basis. Check the rear wheel spoke tension too. The cough is getting better now thanks.
Or just check yiu bike more often. I have a Rail with nearly 3000 miles on it and had no issues at all as I check my bike over weekly
Loctite 243 makes all the difference for not rattling loose! Also lubricates and stops corrosion/oxidiation etc. Which he uses ❤ also pro tip is to always grease ur crank arms and pedal threads to eliminate clicking sounds on pedalling. Brilliant video man! 👍
Thank you
Hi , myTrek Rail 5 had the same issue from the factory chain skipping, the chain was too long and the derailleur was not putting enough tension on the chain when in high gears, shortening the chain fix it. cheers for the video.
Waiting on my rail 9.7 so this vid is very informative and thorough :) pleasure watching and learning. 🇨🇦
Hi Michael, Thanks for watching, Great bike and great to ride. bet your exited.
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic I am, unfortunately I won’t get it till the new year lol shortage I guess and long wait times. Look forward to watching more of your vids and getting up to speed on the mechanics of the rail bike :) thanks again 👍
That chain looks to be 2 links too long by the looks of the derailleur position when in the smallest gear, not enough chain tension being provided by the derailleur. People often buy a chain and just fit and not count the number of links the original chain. Note though I have seen some brand new bikes shipped with chains that are 2 links to long. New chains that are sold for a specific gear cluster speed are longer to cater for diffident chain stay lengths and different distances between rear wheel and crank centre.
Larger Chainring: I changed out my smaller 32 tooth chain
ring for a larger 38 tooth. This reduced cadence and corrected loose chain tension. My bike also had a worn bearing noise when new. I changed out the front wheel and noise dissappeared.
That B-Gap adjustment tool should be used with the bike rear shock on it's sag position for better adjustment.
Thanks for that, its true, a little sag allowance gives a better all round adjustment. This is more applicable to bikes that have a non articulate rear triangle. I will make another video about it as some bikes need more allowance than others. Hardtails don't suffer from this and need no allowance.
Hello, where did you get the tool for the CX motor to tighten the chainring lock. Every time I find one it's for the gen3 one.
Hi, Thanks for watching, Its the same tool that fits the Brose, Birzman.
Thanks Mr. Dave. I have a Marlin7 which I converted to an ebike and after a few months of riding, my derailleur busted all of a sudden. That and what you're saying about the amount of force going through the drivetrain made me realize how fragile the components are. Thanks for your input. Wondering if this is a Trek/ Shimano issue or if other ebike manufacturers are experiencing the same.
Hi, Thanks for watching, its common but more so on converted hardtails. Gear indexing needs to be spot on.
I,m having rotor rub problems with my rail 5 and I,m finding 4 pots a nightmare to adjust correctly. Update i found out my front wheel wasn't tightened enough by the bike shop when they built it and after doing it , its running beautifully
Hi Jeff, Thanks for watching, It's definitely worth checking over your new bike to make sure every thing is as it should be.
I've got a Rail 9.7 which had a NX groupset straight out of the factory. The amount of chains and cassettes I changed in the first 6 months of owning it was crazy, it should've been done on warranty; however, these items are part of the 'consumables' and thus not covered - they just weren't hardwearing enough to handle the E-bike torque/power for long periods of time. Last June I switched to Shimano XT and have just recently replaced the chain (not cassette or chainring) after 1000 miles.... my advise would be to upgrade when you replace and not go like for like.....
Thanks for watching, Different brands do make a difference.
I found the opposite
Mine came with the GX as standard.
I've downgraded to the NX CASSETTES AND CHAIN after my GX gave up at 757 miles. The NX chain and cassette going strong at 1678 miles... all steal makes a difference mate of mine on his Ebike mullard a XT cassette in 500 miles and has switched to NX...
@@phantombigballs8165 Cool, glad you've had success with the lower costing items. The NX cassettes I went through wasn't about wear, it was them snapping sections of 3-4 teeth on the bigger cogs between the joining pins, mostly the 36T cog.
@@phantombigballs8165 Cool, glad you've had success with the lower costing items. The NX cassettes I went through wasn't about wear, it was them snapping sections of 3-4 teeth on the bigger cogs between the joining pins, mostly the 36T cog.
I think that there is an o-ring missing in that job. Between the plate and the nut that threads left, there is an o-ring missing so that it does not come loose. If you check the manual, you will see that you have to put an o-ring in that place, it comes pre-installed from the factory, but it is so thin that when you disassemble the plate you have lost it.
Brilliant video - just picked up a rail 7 and want to learn how to do everything on the bike. Would you be able to list the tools needed to remove the motor/crank? Thanks so much.
Hi, Thanks for watching and your comments.some of the tools required are specific to the motor. I would not advise motor removal unless you are very confident.
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic ah ok I have read issues of the mounting bolts coming loose.. so was going to routinely strip and rebuild it without laying a fortune to a local shop
Many thanks for the upload. I have problem with a Rail 7.. The lockring's are rubbish, and keep coming loose.. Also had numerous bearing problems too - Trek need to stop putting cheap components on their expesive bikes.. Dont expect a 5k bike to blow its bearings after only 1300 mile.
Thank goodness for warranty
Subscribed mate. Hope you're feeling well after the Vax now. The lockring came loose on my focus jam2 also, locktite did the trick. Agree on the drivetrain, I think on these motors 10speed and a bit beefier would greatly increase maintenance interval.
Hi, sorry for the late reply, cough is now sorted, thanks for your comment. Dave
Hi Dave, congratulations for the video! What type of grease did you use? Thank you
Hi, thanks for watching and your comments, MOTOREX 2000
Excellent video! Thanks for a clear explanation.
Glad you enjoyed it!
The big issue they need to address is the cost
The Bosch motor on my 2020 Trek Rail 9.8 has always had a rattle while descending. Is this just an inherent trait on the Bosch Performance Line CX? Drives me crazy!
Hi, thank you for watching and your comments
Very informative,thanks Dave
Very welcome
Rightly or wrongly, when checking the hanger, I always use the same point on the wheel for all four measuring points. To me it eliminates any deviation in the trueness in the wheel.
Ref the chain issue, I always run two chains, swapping them roughly every 300 miles. It seems to work for me, extending component times.
To end, I am also not a fan of SRAM components. They seem more finicky to set up and to keep running smoothly, than Shimano components.
Hi Eddie, thanks for watching and your comments. it's always a good idea to spin the wheel too, this will also tell you if the rims true.
Looks like that rear wheel is out of round as well. Thanks for the video, very informative.
Hi, thanks for watching, yes it was, customer said that he had a new wheel on order.
Is there a rubber o-ring that goes behind the chain ring? Cant remember and ive got an extra one in the shop
Hi, it goes in front of the cahinring
Awesome as always … !! Can you help me find the correct cable to plug into the bottom of the display on my 2022 Rail 9.7 ? It’s an oddly shaped port and I think I can charge my GoPro if I have the proper cable.
Hi Johnny, depending on the type of charging port you have on your gopro would depend on which lead you need. this thread will help you. electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/how-to-power-a-usb-c-phone-from-a-bosch-intuvia.25818/
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic thank you for fast response !!
Really informative. Just a question when setting the B screw with the SRAM tool. Should the sag not have been allowed for then set the hole onnthe tool to the derailleur??
Hi, thanks for watching, the answer is yes, well spotted,. It’s interesting to see how much distance the screw centre is away from the b screw tool when the bike is sat with no weight on, it’s normally around 5mm
Dave. I am trying to get my crank arm off to change the drive sprocket, but the crank arm bolt is stuck tight. I have put the bike on its side and applied molecule 13 penetrating oil, applied heat to the crank arm around the bolt and even used an impact driver. No luck! Any tips? I dont want to bugger up the hex in the bolt.
UPDATE: I just had to be bold and put an extension tube on the key and heave! Success! For anyone else doing it just be aware it needs a LOT of force! Use a good quality 8mm allen key and it undos ANTI CLOCKWISE i.e. the conventional way
Hi john, ideally it’s better to apply freeze to the area around the crank head but not the 8mm hex bolt, if this is not possible use a 1meter long 1/2 socket bar and a good 8mm hex key socket . If you don’t have one then your going to have to drill the bolt head off
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic well its off now with a bit of tube to extend the leverage. I was surprised the impact driver didn't work but maybe because its a fairly cheap low power one! Though it works miracles on wood screws! Anyway now making a home made tool to get the special nut off that holds the chainring. 40mm dia metal tube with 8 evenly spaced 4mm lugs. Better than paying 40 quid!
Why did you put grease on a chainring that is keyed to fit the spindle and does not spin free of the spindle. And then on top of that how do you expect lock right to hold if it's got grease on the threads?
Hi, it stops it getting dry when the bike is washed or in wet conditions, loctite is grease tolerant but should be applied to the locking only
What’s the crank extractor you use. I’ve a rail 5 gen 4?
Hi, www.birzman.com/products_2.php?uID=2&cID=46&Key=311
I have the same bike. Why does my crank arm slide off with no effort if I take out the 8mm hex screw?
Hi, Thanks for watching and your comments, could be a faulty crank arm?
What torque wrench do you use sir?
It is very cool 🕵️
Hi, It's a halfords profesional
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic
Thank you. A learn a lot from yuo. 👍
Excellent vids as always. Had that problem with my Rail 7. What make is your torque wrench by the way? Cheers
Hi Andy, Thanks for watching, Its a Halfords professional.
hi, i stumbled acoss your channel whilst trying to find the answer to a question no one on the entire internet seems to be able to answer and thought if anyone knows this man will so here goes. i'm trying to track a clicking sound on my trek rail 9 and pretty sure its the mount plate bolts but nowhere can i find the torque figures to what these boilts should be. i can find the torx t30 figures but mine has t25. oh and of course great channel
Hi Richie, thanks for your comments. I'm not surprised you can find them, Bosch don't really list a list for the internal mounting plates, It's a recommendation only, these are approx 15.9nm.
I've got a rail 5 and the motor is making a creaking noise when first putting it under load and again when stopping peddling.
Any ideas what the cause could be as I can't find any loose bolts?
Love the video. Very helpful for the eagle set up.👍
Hi, thanks for watching. This is going to be a process of elimination, you have said that you have checked the following
Crank arm bolts
Pedals
Motor fitting bolts
It’ sounds like a mechanical creak, so you need to check the suspension pivots for wear and movement, including the shock mounts, and headset for movement or wear. Check your rear axel for tightness, use your back wheel as a lever to check for movement and noises.
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic thanks for the reply.
I have checked everything and cannot find anything loose.
The motor is also not picking up as quick. It sometimes takes half a rotation before the motor kicks in.
The bike is only 4 mont old and I may have to send it to a trek dealer under warranty. I'm based in Leeds and will look for a local dealer as I bought the bike in Chester. I'll let you know the findings.👍
@@matthewhaughton6434 trek should sort it out for you, they are good
Lubricate your suspension pivots.
Sometimes my Rail 5 made a slight scrubbing noise that resonated thru aluminum frame while coasting. The noise was not loud, but it did bother me. Today while lubing the chain with rear tire lifted, i notice when wheel was rotated forward a heard this same scrubbing noise (NOISEY HUB). So i removed wheel and lightly oiled bearings in rear hub, problem solved. Is this a common problem with Rail 5. I may take bike in for warranty service. Love this bike BTW
Hi, thanks for your comments, it’s interesting to hear about everyone’s little noises and creaks, unfortunately noises can appear at any time not just on the rail but any bike, sometimes it’s easier to fix them than find where the noise is from, everything from the motor backwards needs more maintenance on an ebike. Keep checking it often, enjoy your bike,
Well good was that ..I’ve got the Kenevo so will def be subscribing ....nice vid 👍...what do you reckon to KMC E11 EPT chains are they worth the extra cost ? ....Cheers mate 👍
Hi, Thanks for watching, from experience and to be blunt, no. You can prolong a normal chain, ring and cassette wear drastically by just being careful when changing gear, cleaning and lubrication, there are other factors like riding conditions but essentially your riding a brilliant mountain bike thats capable of doing things that others without batteries cant do. It's a trade off i'm afraid.
I LOVE that green colour. I’m getting the Rail 9 2022 in Dec and it’s a glossy green 🤔
Get a gargle chief, it sounds sore, good informative vid, I,m still thinking of EBIKE selection and the trek is on the list, do you know if the head angle on the rail is the same from 5- 9..about 64- 65 degrees?
covid jab didn't like me, took a few days to get right.
Hello, could you tell me where to buy the sticker for the shock absorber and fork? Thank you !!
Hi Thanks for watching, I will ask next time hes in the workshop.
Are you saying that when you need to change your chain, that you have to change your cassette and chainring at the same time? Can't you just change the chain when it is less worn than when you would traditionally change it? Is there a slower wearing chain you could recommended that would help preserve the life of your cassette and chainring?
Hi Tony, Thanks for watching, looking at a scenario, say for example you have just bought bike and everything is brand new, every week you check your chain for wear, when it gets to between 0.50 and 0.75 on the chain gauge change the chain only for a brand new one. when you get to the 3rd chain, change the cassette and front ring for a new, and then start all over again.
Extending the life of the drivetrain is simply done by changing gear carefully, no clunks, change gear with little or no power, clean and lube it weekly. buy branded parts, not the cheapest but not the most expensive.
Hope this makes sense. Ive done a short video on chain tools, if you have not seen it ruclips.net/video/GGFR_9LF1Lk/видео.html. If you know of others that would find this info please share. Thanks
My Rail 5 will ghost shift if the chain needs lube. When gears start jumping around i know it is time to lube the chain. I use Purple Extreme chain lube. I think it is the best for lubing chain, noisy bearings or whatever.
Hi Vicki, sorry for the late reply, It's surprising how many bikes ghost shit on a dry chain, the cassette rings sometimes hang on to the chain.
How many chains could you go through before renewing the cassette and chainring do you think.
Hi, Providing that you replace your chain a little bit before 0.75 stretch there is no reason why you shouldn't get 3 chains worth before a fresh cassette and front ring is fitted, but having said that I have had many customers have needed a new chain at only 200 miles, it all depends on how hard you want to ride it and how kind you kind you are when changing gear and of course cleaning. Also e-bike specific chains don't make a massive difference. Hope this helps.
GREEN AND PURPLE, Tasteful!
Nice
Enjoyed your video very much! How long have you been working with bikes?
In started building bikes when I was 10, then started building bike wheels at about 15, been obsessed ever since.
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic you seem to be very knowledgeable! 👍
I owed a trek trail 5 and I also experienced the same problem. My chainring was loose. I believe that’s a poor installation from the factory.
Its a part of the part that everyone should check, along with a few other bits too, a great bike though.
Hi have the same bike you are working on on video everything works OK on it but one problem and it does my head in and there is alot of creaking noise when I ride bike and my mate has the same bike as me and his one creaks aswell can you point me in the right place from where it's coming from. Thanks Geoff
Hi Geoff, Thanks for watching. Creaks can come from lots of different places on your bike, from a rear wheel thats not quite tight on the maxle to a cable, headset or suspension linkage, seatpost and so on,. its a process of elimination but check for side to side movement in your suspension by wiggling the rear wheel side to side, check bearing movement, play. notchyness.
First time watching,good stuff.where are you based?
Thanks for watching glad you enjoyed it. Im based in Halifax West Yorkshire.
Hi Dave, great video. I’d love to say loved looking at it but I’d be lying, turns out my 4 month old trek rail 9.8 xt has the same identical problem as the bike in your video. But on my bike the cassette is shredded as well, that is the 3 smallest cogs, I noticed slipping through them on my last ride, chain was barely at 0.5 wear. So I have 3 questions
1; is the loose chainring in your opinion (partly) to blame for the (excessive) wear to my cassette?
2; do you feel as an expect mechanic that I should claim these costs with the seller of my bike? I’m asking because I bought it through a website and if I’m going to cause havoc with them I’d like to know I’m right with my facts. I promise not to mention you in any way shape or form ✌🏻
3. I saw a large German website sell the loose cogs for the xt cassette as separate items. If I were only to replace all of those loose cogs instead of the whole cassette would that be something worth trying? Or should I eat the cost and just replace the whole thing?
Hi, Thanks for watching, I will try and answer your questions best I can.
1, It's not likely that your loose front chainring caused the damage to your cassette.
2, This is a difficult one to answer but If you buy your bike from a website and its delivered in a box much of the responsibility is your own to make sure that its built correctly and fit for purpose, however this is a grey area because some shops will build the bike up, check it all then disassemble it, put it back in the box and sent it out to you, have you got a PDI List completed by the shop?, you have not said how many miles the bike has done and has it been maintained. I would say that in the long run it will be easier and cheaper just to replace the cassette.
3, you can replace the sprockets that are slipping, have you measured your chain stretch?
Hope this helps
Dave
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic thanks again for your time. Honestly I find it awesome you take the time to answer questions like mine, they’re many channels that dont bother at all… so really thankful that you do, You really help a newbie like myself to learn more about the technical aspects of bike mechanics.
I’m not sure what a dpi list is but yes they build it up then removed the handlebar and shipped it in a box. I already had some issues with other bolts they didn’t torque up to spec and I called them out for. The guy I’ve been emailing with already acknowledged that and said head have a chat with the guys from shipping because that wasn’t the level of service they’re supposed to ship out. To answer your other question yes I had it serviced 4 weeks ago at the 500 km mark by my local trek and bosch dealer, he’s also supposed to be ‘the’ specialist bike shop for the greater area. atm it’s at 900 km mark, and yes I check my chain after every single ride to prevent exactly what just happened, having to change the whole damn lot, chain and cassette, which you undoubtedly know 12 speed xt isn’t cheap at all.
@@visserswp Hi, Thank you for the kind words, A big part of my channel is to try and help others that ask for help, it's the least at can do. Yes 12 speed stuff inc sram is expensive and other brands are getting that way too.
Hi I’ve a trek rail 9 with creaking sounds can I book it in for you to have a look at it please
Hi yes sure. Can you telephone me on 01422 766086 to book it in.
Yes will do when is best to ring
Had the same problem on my Haibike with Bosch CX 4, WHY is it left wounded threads on the Right Side? Stupid....
Hi, Thanks for watching, yes it's quite common.
Just saw your video; when you checked the chain you said it was” .50 so lots of life left in it”. But those guys from embn and gmbn tech always say that if you replace the chain at .50 you can have 2 or 3 chain worn before you have to replace the cassette. What’s your opinion on that? Any truth in it?
Hi, Thanks for watching, that is true, however, check your chain stretch every week, on an ebike you can soon go above. 0.50
Great videos Dave, very helpful, I know this is an older video now, but wanted to comment on the chain stretch, EBike chains should really be replaced at 0.5, not 0.75 as you mentioned. You’re probably aware by now but thought I’d mention it, keep up the great vids 👍🏻
Hi, thanks for watching, it also depends on manufacturer too, sram can be tricky and needs changing sooner, thanks for watching.
It's less the e bike and more the speeds. Shimano 11 and 12 need replacing at 0.5.
If you allow to get to 0.75 you will find you'll need to replace rings and cassette at the same time. Or just let the lot run to 1 and replace.
If you replace at 0.5 you'll get multiple chains before you need to replace cassette and chainrings
Great vid and really helpful. My Rail 9.7 is having shifting issues, all alignment looks good but spotted a tonne of play in my rear hub so time to replace the bearings. Man these ebikes chew through parts! Also I wore out my NX mech after 1000 miles, it’s not fit for purpose, hopefully will have more miles out of the GX I replaced it with.
Thanks for your comments, let me know how you go on with the GX mech.
Good value for the money
Hi, thanks for watching and your comments
Unless thats cassette has done 1000s. But like say force in an ebike the torque. Good stuff. Im after 23 rail 5. But will be changing cassette to black on day one.
Hi Andy, hope you find your rail. thanks for watching
Great video 👍🏼
Thanks 👍
Sram derailleurs. They´re twisted out of the box. Shit components and worse on 12s due to low tolerances.
bet you wish you put that chain back on the crank before you tightened it all up because of that chain guard in the way... would have saved the customer a new lock link :) More importantly... where's the Liquorice
Lol, well observed, will put the liquorice box in view on the camera on the next video
on my bosch ebike i change the chain at 0.5-0.7 max with eagle 12spd cos at 1 the hole lot will go in the bin
Hi, That was the right thing to do.
That chain actually sitting on the chainstay in top gear! Bad design or what?!
Hi John, Thanks for watching, don't forget that the bike is in the stand with no weight on it.
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic true, but mine's very slack in top. The rear mech is at its limit with slack chain. Could do with a link out mayhap, though of course when pedalling its tight on top and when not, the chain's not moving anyway!
@@johnf3326 hi, do you have a chain checking tool and could you send me a photo to dkaye47@gmail.com
no one is saying that the sram udh is utter crap,made to snap wtf, i just payed 6 grand cash,beyond gutted.250 miles and its still snapped in half in the carbon frame,drilled it cut it and the thing is still their,bike upside down on its back,so dave ill give you a marin ovation in chrome with mazochi shivers no wheels on it ,handle bars and stem plus fox vanilla float to fix my new sram udh in and remove the last bit as its scary drilling round carbon on a brand new bike.i livein stalybridge borderingduky,offer to only you dave as you i trust only,my partis ready to go in,
Hi, thanks for watching and your comments, no need to offer the Marin, If you call me in a could of days on the shop number I can get you booked in.
Stop spraying that area with brake cleaner,it will work its way round the seal and into the bearing😬🤯,thats a massive no no ,and give ye self another job and split the chain to put it back on 🤣😂
Hi Graham, thanks for watching, solvent can be searching your right, care must be taken when using it.
that back wheel has a bloody great flat spot on it!
Hi, Thank you for watching and your comments, yep