Somewhere on earth in the year 2050. The teacher and his class are visiting a technical museum. "What is that machine with the blue cylinders here?" "Oh, that is a reconstruction of a famous experiment. The capacitor perpetuum mobile from the genius inventor J.I." "Wow!" "Yes, that machine changed the world in the beginning of the 21th century. Infinite energy." "Why cant we see the orginal?" "Thats is because of J.I.s last experiment. The black hole generator. You can see it on the world globe here. Where now is only water were some islands, called England."
The bypass diode you suggest is used fairly regularly in larger series-count primaty battery packs for exactly that purpose; to prevent the cells from being driven into reversal.
That is indeed fun looking. I want to do this now, I have some garbage 100F caps, but I need to get some larger ones and a buck boost converter like yours.
Julian, The body diodes in the discharge switching mosfets will prevent the capacitors from going too far into negative by shunting excess negative voltage into the discharge resistors and heat. Thanks for the videos. :-)
that power supply looks awfully familiar ..... Gotta say I can totally recommend it for anyone who has a spare laptop charger or power supply and wants a lab power supply - for about 30 bucks worth I got a 5A 0-30V fully programmable power supply which can take almost any dc source as input - 3D printed a nice case to boot
Putting diode across the capacitors to protect against reverse voltage would be a good idea. I understand the military used to do that with their NiCad battery packs. (One reason you don't want to over-discharge a battery pack is because a cell may go reverse voltage. Presumably the diodes allow you to do a deeper discharge.)
If you had something like one of the Turnigy Reaktor battery chargers,with regenerative discharge,you could pump some of the energy from the second bank,back into the first bank. Bidirectional DC-DC action!
Mrs. Ilett: "Darling, how long before you retire from your job watching paint dry?" Mr. Ilett: "Just about 2 years - I am so looking forward to my electronics hobby." Mrs. Ilett: "Julian... what WERE you doing in the yard all day?" Mr. Ilett: "Watching super-capacitors charge. Would you like to join me next time??"
Julian, please use Baader solar film for looking at the sun, even through a camera. Welding glass isn't recommended, you could still damage your eyes or the camera.
Malcolm Crabbe Grade 12 or above welding glass is fine for solar viewing. The danger comes from using welding glass in conjunction with a telescope eyepiece where heat build and up stress can cause the glass to suddenly break. Using welding glass and a restricted aperture at the front of a telescope or binoculars is also safe so long as the glass is held securely in a frame. Solar film is inherently dangerous with repeated use due to small holes forming in the coating. These holes may not be visible to the naked eye, but they allow uktra violet radiation to pass through the film inducing cataracts. Given the choice, high grade welding glass is the safer option.
5W at 12V will be about 8.9W at 16V These capacitors and the balance circuits are burning about 1W (62 mA). If you charge your capacitor powered speaker, leave it for a few days and decide to go out to a picnic without topping it you won't get much time out ot it. But it would be quite fast to charge if you don't forget to (or if you have solar panel)
Watching the total power meter pass straight through 75 watts and you were just looking and commenting about voltage differences. An awesome toy, but I suspect it is going to get broken soon! :-)
Hello Julian--Just for fun, at about timestamp 18:30 in the video you charged the small bank 0 to 16V at 5 Amps. I timed it (it seemed to be in real time) and got 46 seconds. Anyway, using the formula C=I*T/V=5A*46s/16V=~14F. So, EACH of the six caps should be about 14*6=84F. This is exactly the sort of labeling error I get with these six-pack supercaps. If I am mistaken, somebody PLEASE chime in with help--all my other caps work out with the label--keep in mind.
Well done Julian! My mind is now buzzing. Have questions but don't wish to distract from your sunny Thursday. Have you thought about building your own super-capacitor(s)?
It seems like you put in about 0.6 to 0.7Wh in to that small capacitor bank and that will be equivalent to a 6 capacitors in series each rated at 2.7V 120F (not sure what they are rated but I guess more than 120F). I was ignoring the 5W incandescent since that will not contribute to much in one minute. Those DC/DC converters are usually quite decent so probably well above 80% efficient so about 0.8Wh where taken from the large capacitor bank and since they started from fully charged a bit above 2.7V each cap and got down to 2.13V assuming all capacitors where discharging in an equal way then they will have a real capacity of 350F maybe best case 400F if we include large internal resistance for those capacitors. So the large ones seem decent if they are equal in capacitance internal resistance and self discharge rate.
The large bank at 16.3v @ 83F holds a charge of ~1350 coulombs while the small bank of 120F caps holds 16.2V x 20F = 324 coulombs. Assuming ideal charge transfer (yeah, right), the large bank should be able to charge the small bank four (actually 4.16) times. If we are to assume ideal conditions, AND MORE IMPORTANTLY believe that those larger supercaps are really 500F each--I have exactly the same six pack and they are actually much less than 100F each--closer to 80. All the other supercaps I have 10F to 3000F actually agree with the label!! I measured them by employing the formula I=C(dV/dT) and charge with a constant current. ...a neat trick: Charge with ONE (1) Amp to one (1) Volt ant the numerical value you get in charge time (seconds) is equal the the capacitance (in Farads) of the supercap. For ex. if ONE amp of current charges the cap to ONE more VOLT in 1min and 23 seconds (83s) then the capacitance of the supercap is 83F. This is about what I get for a SINGLE one of those "500F" labeled caps...wondered why they were so light-weight.
If I am not missing something, it should be somewhat easy to add one of those small ebay ammeters that will read the INPUT CURRENT of that buck-boost converter, of course, with minor limitations--but should be worth it to monitor this current.
Dear Julian, Where did you get that DC-DC converter. I need something like that for myself with a Portable Power supply project I am working on, if you have a Ebay listing that would be awesome
I like your films and experiments. I have asked what fuse you used for the line, and box fuse. Sorry I'm asking, but I'm a little deaf. I did not understand everything you said on these films. What other diodes can be used. Because I know you used 90SQ035. It's better to be 9amp?. I always have a problem with this.
At 14:52, why wait until (quote) "next time" ??? It would be very interesting to see how much the DC-DC converter can -suck- out of the large cap bank, until it fails! This also indirectly relates to the 'calculation you referred to at about 13:24 .
Be careful charging at 2 amps or more. If the protection circuit kicks in and say 0.1 amp flows thru it 1.9 amps will still be charging the super cap raising its voltage. Someone else may have also commented but lunch is nearly over I I don't have time to read all the comments.
I've been looking at maybe two super capacitors (2.5 or 2.7v) to recharge an MP3 player from but can't seem to find a price sensible combination of super cap / protection board. If I had a couple of 2.7v 100F super caps, would the 2.7v 500F protection board be OK? Otherwise, the 500F super caps are a bit pricey and I can't find individual protection boards that say 100F. The MP3 doesn't need to be fully charged from them, just enough for an hour or two would be OK.
hey can you safely use this in serial and parallel connection... lets say 48v at 20 amps..... and then parallel for bigger bank..... like i want to run a toaster off dc......solar...... like its 2 to 1 to charge your battery..... but its 1 to 1 with capacitors...... will the balance board still work ok
why the buck boost or boost buck? wouldn't a SEPIC better in terms of efficiency? also as i see this only has 2 components on the heatsink which i presume to be the MOSFET and the Diodes.. so i doupt this is nor boost buck nor buck boost.. i think this is a SEPIC for those who dont know what a sepic is: The single-ended primary-inductor converter (SEPIC) is a type of DC/DC converter allowing the electrical potential (voltage) at its output to be greater than, less than, or equal to that at its input. The output of the SEPIC is controlled by the duty cycle of the control transistor. source: Wikipedia
it would be interesting to put single caps where the leds are to suck up the over voltage and some how rig them for a second output so storing instead of burning off the energy. just food for thought...
Or better still, connect a battery in parallel with the capacitor bank. It would then have high storage capacity with the capability of delivering high instantaneous current whatever the battery state of charge. Oh, that's already been done....! Julian was playing, as he said at the outset, so all good fun, and no worries about energy conservation. All from a small solar panel on an average English Summer day. It floats his boat. :-)
Ever played around with salt water capacitors?... jam jar covered in tinfoil, and jam jar then filled with water... the glass between the tinfoil and the water functions as a dielectric, and varying the water level changes the effective plate area, which changes the capacitance The water level can be varied without taking the capacitor out of a circuit (pump, or a "plunger" to displace water). if such a capacitor is charged when full of water, and then the water level reduced... the capacitance drops. energy stored in the capacitor doesn't change, so to maintain constant energy stored within the capacitance, capacitor voltage goes up By E=0.5*C*V^2 and E_1=E_2 V_2=((C_1/C_2)/V_1^2)^(0.5) If the ratio of capacitance change is great enough, and the change in capacitance happens fast enough... it can damage 555 timers, utilising such capacitors as a timing element.
I'm hesitant to ask here but I'm really curious and can't seem to find a way to send a pm him, but how does he film from this first person perspective? I'm looking to do the same thing for a few personal electronics videos myself.
Can you please explain why the voltage of charging SC had 12.6V when it was 5A where as it was 11.2V when charging current was 2A ? It would really be fun doing this math on thursday.
Likely due to the increased charging time at the lower current. That incandescent bulb is draining off some portion of the charging current all the time. At 2A it takes longer to charge the 2nd bank and thus the bulb dissipates more energy and that comes out of the 1st bank. Also, the losses in the DC-DC converter would be a larger fraction of the lower output current than of the higher current so that figures in as well.
Given that it takes half a second to charge a 10F supercap to 1.5 volt with a standard AA batterie (in fact, I do it with 2 AA batteries, for 3 V, and even if my supercap is limited to 2.7V, it accepts it, for half a second, and my scope confirm that it is then charged at 2.7 volt); given that it takes 20 minutes to discharge such a single loaded cap through a 22 ohm resistance ( 5 R C = 18.33 minutes ); given that a single ohm add almost a full minute to discharge (or charge), 5 * 10 * 1 = 50 sec. ; why people insist in adding control "stuff", so adding MANY ohms, for the full life of the charging time? Sure, avoiding overcharging is important (in theory), but if we are limited to 2.7 volts, say, then we could surely charge it up to, for illustration, 1.5 volt (with the amperage that a single AA battery can deliver) for a "long" 0.5 second, and then make the charging circuit switches in a "control" safe mode, but only for the last tenth of volts of the charge ? That could speed up the charging process which is, imho, quite slow as it is so often depicted in RUclips. And WHY it could be so IMPORTANT to have a constant amperage when charging a super cap?
I had a dream were I woke up in your house and you were nice but then later you turned evil and so i was just in my room and then i wanted to tell you I used To live here and you used to be friends with my dad. I forget what you said but then i ran down the stairs and you came into my room and just grabbed me and shook me up and down almost hitting my head on the lamp and i thot you would throw me at the ground then you left so then i texted my mom telling here that i was missing and shared my location she called the police and she came and the police did. Later i got my stuff back and me and my mom went home. NOT PART OF THE DREAM well still was a dream but the house was like i house that I dreamed of like years ago im 11 now. I hope your not like this in real life. O and you had kids i dont know if you have kids in real life. The house I've never ever seen in real life. Only in my dreams.
that power supply looks quite awesome for 30$. would you recommend it or is there anything a buyer should be aware of?(other than not touching it when its drawing 150 watts xD).
i would recommend it, the interface is very nice and it seems to work really well. haven't had the full output power running yet, but i have done 5 amps without it getting too warm at all (id imagine it would be relatively efficient too being a buck, reducing that heating). You would pay much more for a lab power supply with a programmable digital interface and 0-5A up to 30V output capability. Another really nice thing is that it will happily run off of almost any dc power supply you have lying around, if you carried a decent battery you would even have a 180W portable lab supply :) ...without a case the module is a bit more finicky though, the seller sells those too- or you can just make your own.
It's really good, but efficiency is not as good as the manufacturer's buck dc-dc supplies. Check review here: lygte-info.dk/review/Power%20DPH3205%20UK.html
thanks, looks indeed pretty good. 80% efficiency is just fine. its not something to be used permanently(as in days, weeks and years) so it shouldn't really add up too badly. And i was planning to use a laptop power supply. those run at 19-20 volts and usually deliver 90-150 watts depending on which model you get and you can get them everywhere quite cheaply. since they recommend 18 volts or more for the input. you could even simply buy two to get more juice and you'd probably still be cheaper off than buying another powersupply.
Thanks Julian. Nothing like a bit of fun now and then. It's good for the spirit!
Somewhere on earth in the year 2050. The teacher and his class are visiting a technical museum.
"What is that machine with the blue cylinders here?"
"Oh, that is a reconstruction of a famous experiment. The capacitor perpetuum mobile from the genius inventor J.I."
"Wow!"
"Yes, that machine changed the world in the beginning of the 21th century. Infinite energy."
"Why cant we see the orginal?"
"Thats is because of J.I.s last experiment. The black hole generator. You can see it on the world globe here. Where now is only water were some islands, called England."
Lol
The bypass diode you suggest is used fairly regularly in larger series-count primaty battery packs for exactly that purpose; to prevent the cells from being driven into reversal.
That is indeed fun looking. I want to do this now, I have some garbage 100F caps, but I need to get some larger ones and a buck boost converter like yours.
I remember your vid on that power supply module and wasn't quite sure what I would use one for, now I see how it works in operation
So, have you come up with any practical use now?
Julian, The body diodes in the discharge switching mosfets will prevent the capacitors from going too far into negative by shunting excess negative voltage into the discharge resistors and heat.
Thanks for the videos. :-)
Yes, that's true. They can't go more negative than -0.6V
that power supply looks awfully familiar ..... Gotta say I can totally recommend it for anyone who has a spare laptop charger or power supply and wants a lab power supply - for about 30 bucks worth I got a 5A 0-30V fully programmable power supply which can take almost any dc source as input - 3D printed a nice case to boot
Putting diode across the capacitors to protect against reverse voltage would be a good idea. I understand the military used to do that with their NiCad battery packs. (One reason you don't want to over-discharge a battery pack is because a cell may go reverse voltage. Presumably the diodes allow you to do a deeper discharge.)
awesome fun, trust you to come up with fun and interesting projects like this. keep them coming.
If you had something like one of the Turnigy Reaktor battery chargers,with regenerative discharge,you could pump some of the energy from the second bank,back into the first bank. Bidirectional DC-DC action!
+PhattyMo You read my mind. Two LTC3780 buck boosts pointing in opposite directions :)
Mrs. Ilett: "Darling, how long before you retire from your job watching paint dry?"
Mr. Ilett: "Just about 2 years - I am so looking forward to my electronics hobby."
Mrs. Ilett: "Julian... what WERE you doing in the yard all day?"
Mr. Ilett: "Watching super-capacitors charge. Would you like to join me next time??"
Julian, please use Baader solar film for looking at the sun, even through a camera. Welding glass isn't recommended, you could still damage your eyes or the camera.
Malcolm Crabbe Grade 12 or above welding glass is fine for solar viewing. The danger comes from using welding glass in conjunction with a telescope eyepiece where heat build and up stress can cause the glass to suddenly break. Using welding glass and a restricted aperture at the front of a telescope or binoculars is also safe so long as the glass is held securely in a frame. Solar film is inherently dangerous with repeated use due to small holes forming in the coating. These holes may not be visible to the naked eye, but they allow uktra violet radiation to pass through the film inducing cataracts. Given the choice, high grade welding glass is the safer option.
5W at 12V will be about 8.9W at 16V These capacitors and the balance circuits are burning about 1W (62 mA). If you charge your capacitor powered speaker, leave it for a few days and decide to go out to a picnic without topping it you won't get much time out ot it. But it would be quite fast to charge if you don't forget to (or if you have solar panel)
Watching the total power meter pass straight through 75 watts and you were just looking and commenting about voltage differences. An awesome toy, but I suspect it is going to get broken soon! :-)
Hello Julian--Just for fun, at about timestamp 18:30 in the video you charged the small bank 0 to 16V at 5 Amps. I timed it (it seemed to be in real time) and got 46 seconds. Anyway, using the formula C=I*T/V=5A*46s/16V=~14F. So, EACH of the six caps should be about 14*6=84F. This is exactly the sort of labeling error I get with these six-pack supercaps. If I am mistaken, somebody PLEASE chime in with help--all my other caps work out with the label--keep in mind.
Well done Julian! My mind is now buzzing. Have questions but don't wish to distract from your sunny Thursday. Have you thought about building your own super-capacitor(s)?
+Steven G Yes, I've tried and failed several times :(
i need to get one of those fancy converters. ive only got one with the 7 segment display and its a pain to use.
Friday morning here! Bout to go to bed and get your Notification , watched , now off to bed, Good night!
Great explanations, Julian! 👍
It seems like you put in about 0.6 to 0.7Wh in to that small capacitor bank and that will be equivalent to a 6 capacitors in series each rated at 2.7V 120F (not sure what they are rated but I guess more than 120F). I was ignoring the 5W incandescent since that will not contribute to much in one minute.
Those DC/DC converters are usually quite decent so probably well above 80% efficient so about 0.8Wh where taken from the large capacitor bank and since they started from fully charged a bit above 2.7V each cap and got down to 2.13V assuming all capacitors where discharging in an equal way then they will have a real capacity of 350F maybe best case 400F if we include large internal resistance for those capacitors. So the large ones seem decent if they are equal in capacitance internal resistance and self discharge rate.
+electrodacus Yes, the small capacitors are rated 120F 2.7V - quite respectable performance it seems.
The large bank at 16.3v @ 83F holds a charge of ~1350 coulombs while the small bank of 120F caps holds 16.2V x 20F = 324 coulombs. Assuming ideal charge transfer (yeah, right), the large bank should be able to charge the small bank four (actually 4.16) times. If we are to assume ideal conditions, AND MORE IMPORTANTLY believe that those larger supercaps are really 500F each--I have exactly the same six pack and they are actually much less than 100F each--closer to 80. All the other supercaps I have 10F to 3000F actually agree with the label!! I measured them by employing the formula I=C(dV/dT) and charge with a constant current. ...a neat trick: Charge with ONE (1) Amp to one (1) Volt ant the numerical value you get in charge time (seconds) is equal the the capacitance (in Farads) of the supercap. For ex. if ONE amp of current charges the cap to ONE more VOLT in 1min and 23 seconds (83s) then the capacitance of the supercap is 83F. This is about what I get for a SINGLE one of those "500F" labeled caps...wondered why they were so light-weight.
where do you get the blue leds? Or what are the values for the led IE forward turn on voltage and such. Very nice video
If I am not missing something, it should be somewhat easy to add one of those small ebay ammeters that will read the INPUT CURRENT of that buck-boost converter, of course, with minor limitations--but should be worth it to monitor this current.
I agree, that was fun!
Dear Julian, Where did you get that DC-DC converter. I need something like that for myself with a Portable Power supply project I am working on, if you have a Ebay listing that would be awesome
I like your films and experiments. I have asked what fuse you used for the line, and box fuse. Sorry I'm asking, but I'm a little deaf. I did not understand everything you said on these films. What other diodes can be used. Because I know you used 90SQ035. It's better to be 9amp?. I always have a problem with this.
At 14:52, why wait until (quote) "next time" ??? It would be very interesting to see how much the DC-DC converter can -suck- out of the large cap bank, until it fails! This also indirectly relates to the 'calculation you referred to at about 13:24 .
can you try to start your car with the bigger capacity bank?
Be careful charging at 2 amps or more. If the protection circuit kicks in and say 0.1 amp flows thru it 1.9 amps will still be charging the super cap raising its voltage. Someone else may have also commented but lunch is nearly over I I don't have time to read all the comments.
Looks fun, be better if I fully understood it all!
I've been looking at maybe two super capacitors (2.5 or 2.7v) to recharge an MP3 player from but can't seem to find a price sensible combination of super cap / protection board. If I had a couple of 2.7v 100F super caps, would the 2.7v 500F protection board be OK?
Otherwise, the 500F super caps are a bit pricey and I can't find individual protection boards that say 100F.
The MP3 doesn't need to be fully charged from them, just enough for an hour or two would be OK.
I was in that plane. Did you see me wave at you ?
wow a manual....fancy:)
Hi, which fuse do you use in order to protect your capacitors?
hey can you safely use this in serial and parallel connection...
lets say 48v at 20 amps..... and then parallel for bigger bank.....
like i want to run a toaster off dc......solar......
like its 2 to 1 to charge your battery..... but its 1 to 1 with capacitors......
will the balance board still work ok
Do super capacitors have a life span of storage capability like batteries?
As there is no chemical reaction taking place inside the capacitors, unlike batteries, the shelf life is unlimited.
where did you get the pack of 6?
why the buck boost or boost buck? wouldn't a SEPIC better in terms of efficiency?
also as i see this only has 2 components on the heatsink which i presume to be the MOSFET and the Diodes.. so i doupt this is nor boost buck nor buck boost.. i think this is a SEPIC
for those who dont know what a sepic is:
The single-ended primary-inductor converter (SEPIC) is a type of DC/DC converter allowing the electrical potential (voltage) at its output to be greater than, less than, or equal to that at its input. The output of the SEPIC is controlled by the duty cycle of the control transistor.
source: Wikipedia
yes they will go negative and bust at around -0.6v
Julian,How about the teardown I've mentioned some months ago? Is the fridge still working?
I'm sure the fridge is still working, but it's packed away in my storage unit. Unfortunately the workshop has reached saturation with stuff!
every time i watch you or bigclive i think there's something REALLY and SERIOUSLY wrong in England. Something doesn't definitely work
Julian Ilett Typical thing.All electronics suffer from "lack of space" :D
it would be interesting to put single caps where the leds are to suck up the over voltage and some how rig them for a second output so storing instead of burning off the energy. just food for thought...
Or better still, connect a battery in parallel with the capacitor bank. It would then have high storage capacity with the capability of delivering high instantaneous current whatever the battery state of charge. Oh, that's already been done....! Julian was playing, as he said at the outset, so all good fun, and no worries about energy conservation. All from a small solar panel on an average English Summer day. It floats his boat. :-)
Hey Julian, could you add the link for the buck-boost converter please.
Here's RD Tech's (the manufacturer) Aliexpress store rdtech.aliexpress.com/store/923042 The one Julian had on the video is the DPH3205.
Supercaps Powercap 36× 500F Battery Accu Solar Grid-Tie 2,7V Farad ➡️ ruclips.net/video/ihSc7Bj_oQk/видео.html
Homemade DIY 660Wp Sun Tracer Solar-Tracker ➡️ ruclips.net/video/X0lmYFwOq3U/видео.html
Ever played around with salt water capacitors?... jam jar covered in tinfoil, and jam jar then filled with water... the glass between the tinfoil and the water functions as a dielectric, and varying the water level changes the effective plate area, which changes the capacitance The water level can be varied without taking the capacitor out of a circuit (pump, or a "plunger" to displace water).
if such a capacitor is charged when full of water, and then the water level reduced... the capacitance drops. energy stored in the capacitor doesn't change, so to maintain constant energy stored within the capacitance, capacitor voltage goes up
By
E=0.5*C*V^2
and E_1=E_2
V_2=((C_1/C_2)/V_1^2)^(0.5)
If the ratio of capacitance change is great enough, and the change in capacitance happens fast enough... it can damage 555 timers, utilising such capacitors as a timing element.
It's the same effect that happens when you take off a wooden pullover and the voltage discharges through your nose. Ouch!
I'm hesitant to ask here but I'm really curious and can't seem to find a way to send a pm him, but how does he film from this first person perspective? I'm looking to do the same thing for a few personal electronics videos myself.
Check this out: www.patreon.com/posts/behind-scenes-8796138
or if you're not a Patron: ruclips.net/video/bHcnqvBrTsU/видео.html
A response from the man himself! Thanks!
Is there a reason why they can't make higher voltage sort capacitors. why are they all 2.7 ish volts?
that water bottle demanded screen time :-)
Can you please explain why the voltage of charging SC had 12.6V when it was 5A where as it was 11.2V when charging current was 2A ? It would really be fun doing this math on thursday.
Likely due to the increased charging time at the lower current. That incandescent bulb is draining off some portion of the charging current all the time. At 2A it takes longer to charge the 2nd bank and thus the bulb dissipates more energy and that comes out of the 1st bank. Also, the losses in the DC-DC converter would be a larger fraction of the lower output current than of the higher current so that figures in as well.
Spot on.
Is your isolation diode rated for 5 amps?
+Lawrence L yes, it's a 90SQ035 Schottky rated at 9A
Given that it takes half a second to charge a 10F supercap to 1.5 volt with a standard AA batterie (in fact, I do it with 2 AA batteries, for 3 V, and even if my supercap is limited to 2.7V, it accepts it, for half a second, and my scope confirm that it is then charged at 2.7 volt);
given that it takes 20 minutes to discharge such a single loaded cap through a 22 ohm resistance ( 5 R C = 18.33 minutes );
given that a single ohm add almost a full minute to discharge (or charge), 5 * 10 * 1 = 50 sec. ;
why people insist in adding control "stuff", so adding MANY ohms, for the full life of the charging time?
Sure, avoiding overcharging is important (in theory), but if we are limited to 2.7 volts, say, then we could surely charge it up to, for illustration, 1.5 volt (with the amperage that a single AA battery can deliver) for a "long" 0.5 second, and then make the charging circuit switches in a "control" safe mode, but only for the last tenth of volts of the charge ? That could speed up the charging process which is, imho, quite slow as it is so often depicted in RUclips. And WHY it could be so IMPORTANT to have a constant amperage when charging a super cap?
...I just can't figure out why some of the words are "lined out" in my comments--can other readers see this?
Who does love chemtrails haha???
I had a dream were I woke up in your house and you were nice but then later you turned evil and so i was just in my room and then i wanted to tell you I used To live here and you used to be friends with my dad. I forget what you said but then i ran down the stairs and you came into my room and just grabbed me and shook me up and down almost hitting my head on the lamp and i thot you would throw me at the ground then you left so then i texted my mom telling here that i was missing and shared my location she called the police and she came and the police did. Later i got my stuff back and me and my mom went home. NOT PART OF THE DREAM well still was a dream but the house was like i house that I dreamed of like years ago im 11 now. I hope your not like this in real life. O and you had kids i dont know if you have kids in real life. The house I've never ever seen in real life. Only in my dreams.
O yah and woke up in real life and had sleep paralysis.
Sometimes im afraid to sleep because of a bad dream or sleep paralysis.
O and you meaning the person that makes the videos and the video im watching.
HAHaHa Hoax!!!
that power supply looks quite awesome for 30$. would you recommend it or is there anything a buyer should be aware of?(other than not touching it when its drawing 150 watts xD).
i would recommend it, the interface is very nice and it seems to work really well. haven't had the full output power running yet, but i have done 5 amps without it getting too warm at all (id imagine it would be relatively efficient too being a buck, reducing that heating). You would pay much more for a lab power supply with a programmable digital interface and 0-5A up to 30V output capability. Another really nice thing is that it will happily run off of almost any dc power supply you have lying around, if you carried a decent battery you would even have a 180W portable lab supply :) ...without a case the module is a bit more finicky though, the seller sells those too- or you can just make your own.
It's really good, but efficiency is not as good as the manufacturer's buck dc-dc supplies. Check review here: lygte-info.dk/review/Power%20DPH3205%20UK.html
thanks, looks indeed pretty good. 80% efficiency is just fine. its not something to be used permanently(as in days, weeks and years) so it shouldn't really add up too badly.
And i was planning to use a laptop power supply. those run at 19-20 volts and usually deliver 90-150 watts depending on which model you get and you can get them everywhere quite cheaply. since they recommend 18 volts or more for the input. you could even simply buy two to get more juice and you'd probably still be cheaper off than buying another powersupply.
I use one with an old Dell laptop supply as the input for a bench supply and it works fine
wow a manual....fancy:)