I never learn too much through your video's. Don't apologize or think you are boring anyone. In about a year...I hopefully will be locating ON my off-grid property. I have to hook up everything...water, solar/wind, generators..you name it. That's even just to get the 5th wheel operational...later comes the cabin I want to build. It seems so easy watching you do it, and even when I purchase items through your online site....I will be a mess trying to figure it all out by myself/remembering all the 'how to'. If someone can show me HOW to do things..I can usually DO them...however, I may have to jest holler for you to just come on out to Oklahoma! (Land in PA. is just outright overpriced..so gonna have to jump states to homestead...same as the Amish are doing.) LOL! Most plumbers and electricians don't want to bother with 'off grid' applications....if it weren't for the preppers there would be nobody to turn to. Fact. So, I appreciate your video's and never think it's too redundant. It takes a few times/different situations to finally sink in.
Nice to see the video Eng775, esp since this is a project near and dear! :) I'll let you answer the questions related to your system, but I may jump in if any relate to the building or the well specifics. To Wm. Gahres: the cost to drill the well was $2100 and that was for the well and casing without the solar system and related hardware and installation. The well is 120' to bottom with 100' feet of that 4" casing and the last 20' in rock. Static water level is 20'. It is ideal for the pumps Eng775 spec'd for this job. The well went in before the proposal was worked up so Eng775 had the well spec's ahead of time. Eng775 can give you the depth specs on the submersible and the Simple Pump. With the refresh rate I enjoy on this well draw down is negligible. I have drained and refilled the cistern to flush out any plastic particles from the manufacturer. Takes about 6-7 hours of good sun to fill it;1050 gallons. As a side note, if any of you have any doubts about using Practical Preppers for this or other prep services, I can tell you they are great to work with and I would use their services again in a heart beat. Once the wash house is finished I'll post a vid and also pass on inside/outside temperature differentials for the coldest days.
Lots of questions here over the last number of years. I will try to answer some of them. The wellhead is insulated and also has a heater strip that we turn on in exceptionally cold weather. The heater strip runs off an inverter in the cistern building but we only use it occasionally. The batteries, surface pump, filter and cistern Are all inside an insulated building. Sheathing and insulation were installed after Scott did the mechanicals. The cistern building only requires supplemental heat when the outside temperature goes below 20°. Supplemental heat is provided by a small kerosene heater but we only need to run it a few days a year and not every year. There are no pipes exposed to the open weather.
Mashoutman, if you are asking about a slab for the cistern house, the foundation is dry set concrete cap blocks, in a running bond (like laid brick) sitting on gravel, from 2 to 3 blocks deep depending on grade. The sill is 6 x 6 PT with half lap joints at the corners. The main frame is 4 x 4 PT timber screwed to the sill. The cistern sits on a bed of fine gravel called UCL base, used as road base. The mechanicals are on a raised deck of PT plank.
I designed and built the cistern building and had the well drilled. Scott Hunt (Engineer775) at Practical Preppers designed and installed the mechanicals. He does great work and his designs are simple and efficient. Cannot go wrong hiring Scott.
That charge controller might be small but it works great! They are found all over the world in very harsh environments. Their charging algorithm is unique as well. Do you know something I don't know about the CC?
The solar heater will basically be a built like a 2 x 6 wall attached to the outside of the building. It will have black screen material that collects the solar heat and releases it into the interior. I'm sure you've seen them. Do you think that will prevent the water system from freezing.
Have you thought about a dump load for the solar panels? Maybe a small water heater with a DC element to preheat the water source to the propane heater. That way you would get maximum use from all the power produced from the panels.
How will all of the PVC and tubing handle this during winter? I know some folks who have summer cottages near Chautauqua lake in NY state. They can't afford to keep the heat on all winter and they have different strategies. Some drain all of the water in the house, some leave every faucet just slightly open, a drip(wasteful, but functional).
I have a rainwater collection system in a 10 X 16 room attached to my garage. It consists of 4 275 gallon totes, 4 55 gallon barrels and a shallow well pump with a pressure tank. I am concerned about how to keep it all from freezing. You mentioned a couple times that your big tank will provide thermal mass that will keep the building warm. How does the big tank absorb heat in the first place? I am thinking of putting a passive solar heater on the outside of the south facing wall. cont..
I wish my water table was that High.. my pump is down 380 feet on a 420 foot well.. I would love to have a shallow well as you have, just to put a hand pump. Nice set of solar panels you got there. I would have use a bigger gauge wire between battery's for the amp loads... GREAT VIDEO THANK YOU....
Without a well, I plan to use water in a rain catching system on relatively flat land with a few thousand gallon tank. Would this setup work in a similar setting to pump water from the tank through a purifying system and directly into the house? I have been searching and cannot find a setup that would allow me to do that.
Great Video, as always, Engineer775! Lots of interesting info, here. Since you've shown so much of this particular system, is there any chance that you could show a block diagram of the whole thing? I know each system is different, but I'm also curious about the cost for this system. Thanks, and keep up the great work!
So every thing is exposed ....lines , pump , filter etc. all above ground .... it does not freeze where your at ? if so thts great ... Im running a 48 volt system off grid and I trenched my water line from tank to cabin ....it freezes here below zero here sometimes in the winters .....so have to bury , insulate every thing ....
Hi Ski Bum. The entire system is enclosed and insulated. All of the water lines are insulated and or buried. We have no frost line in Eastern Carolina so the pipes only have to be 18 to 24 inches underground. That’s one of the reasons we left the great White North.
JY, The cistern moderates the temp swing, it does not freeze, but the pipes might. Outside temps below 20 deg and we play it safe with a small kerosene heater.
I'm getting close to having my well drilled. Depth will be 280 feet. Static water is 30 feet less than that. How can I incorporate solar, or a solar backup? I do have 290 watts of panels, a midnight 150 charge controller and 4, six volt golf cart batteries...
word of caution, never install fuses in with batteries unless sealed type and even then its frowned upon, the use of open bladed type which are not rated for operating in a volatile environment. in the event / condition of over load, high current situation and under normal charging and discharge state, battery's generate hydrogen gas if for what ever reason the moment of arc / flash when the fuse blows will ignite the hydrogen gas and cause the battery to rupture,end of battery. apart from that looks good
I have a random completely unrelated pump question. We have just your standard well pump and when your running the water for any period of time the water pressure fluctuates a lot from a almost nothing to crazy high. Seems like pump keeps turning on and off. Any idea of the cause/is that normal?
Sounds like you have lost storage / expansion on your system, you probably need a new pressure tank. I could be wrong only 25 yrs experience but that would be my initial diagnosis.
In New England , Pitless adapters would be used int eh well and all plumbing would be buried below the frost line. The booster pump would be kept in a heated mechanical room. So standard freeze proofing techniques would apply but the system would work the same. We have done this in Maine.
why not put the tank and other stuff closer to the well head so it is all in the same building? Is it a bad idea to surround the well inside a building?
Dave, we decided to keep the wellhead clear in case the casing failed and had to be rebored. I may eventually build a small shed over the well head to protect it better than the plastic rock that now covers it. The cistern house is tucked back into the wood line in order to keep the field clear. The distance from solar array to wellhead is about 15 feet and from Wellhead to cistern house is only about 30 feet.
I agree with Linda, very informative never boring. Currently off-grid and setting up all services correctly due to your efforts. We all owe you !
I never learn too much through your video's. Don't apologize or think you are boring anyone. In about a year...I hopefully will be locating ON my off-grid property. I have to hook up everything...water, solar/wind, generators..you name it. That's even just to get the 5th wheel operational...later comes the cabin I want to build. It seems so easy watching you do it, and even when I purchase items through your online site....I will be a mess trying to figure it all out by myself/remembering all the 'how to'. If someone can show me HOW to do things..I can usually DO them...however, I may have to jest holler for you to just come on out to Oklahoma! (Land in PA. is just outright overpriced..so gonna have to jump states to homestead...same as the Amish are doing.) LOL! Most plumbers and electricians don't want to bother with 'off grid' applications....if it weren't for the preppers there would be nobody to turn to. Fact. So, I appreciate your video's and never think it's too redundant. It takes a few times/different situations to finally sink in.
Step by Step Is not boring to me. I would really like to see that and some explanations for components of the systems. Thanks.
Nice to see the video Eng775, esp since this is a project near and dear! :) I'll let you answer the questions related to your system, but I may jump in if any relate to the building or the well specifics. To Wm. Gahres: the cost to drill the well was $2100 and that was for the well and casing without the solar system and related hardware and installation. The well is 120' to bottom with 100' feet of that 4" casing and the last 20' in rock. Static water level is 20'. It is ideal for the pumps Eng775 spec'd for this job. The well went in before the proposal was worked up so Eng775 had the well spec's ahead of time. Eng775 can give you the depth specs on the submersible and the Simple Pump. With the refresh rate I enjoy on this well draw down is negligible. I have drained and refilled the cistern to flush out any plastic particles from the manufacturer. Takes about 6-7 hours of good sun to fill it;1050 gallons. As a side note, if any of you have any doubts about using Practical Preppers for this or other prep services, I can tell you they are great to work with and I would use their services again in a heart beat. Once the wash house is finished I'll post a vid and also pass on inside/outside temperature differentials for the coldest days.
where is that video?
Lots of questions here over the last number of years. I will try to answer some of them. The wellhead is insulated and also has a heater strip that we turn on in exceptionally cold weather. The heater strip runs off an inverter in the cistern building but we only use it occasionally. The batteries, surface pump, filter and cistern Are all inside an insulated building. Sheathing and insulation were installed after Scott did the mechanicals. The cistern building only requires supplemental heat when the outside temperature goes below 20°. Supplemental heat is provided by a small kerosene heater but we only need to run it a few days a year and not every year. There are no pipes exposed to the open weather.
Thanks for sharing. I am looking to do something similar to this myself. Not sure if you mentioned it, but how thick is the slab?
Mashoutman, if you are asking about a slab for the cistern house, the foundation is dry set concrete cap blocks, in a running bond (like laid brick) sitting on gravel, from 2 to 3 blocks deep depending on grade. The sill is 6 x 6 PT with half lap joints at the corners. The main frame is 4 x 4 PT timber screwed to the sill. The cistern sits on a bed of fine gravel called UCL base, used as road base. The mechanicals are on a raised deck of PT plank.
@@1NCCCH I see. Thanks. I need to get in touch with those guys and see if they have plans and a parts list put together.
I designed and built the cistern building and had the well drilled. Scott Hunt (Engineer775) at Practical Preppers designed and installed the mechanicals. He does great work and his designs are simple and efficient. Cannot go wrong hiring Scott.
Spare parts are good! Charge controllers, surge arresters, filters, and fuses.
You do very nice work Scott. I'm saving my pennies to install a similar system.
You my friend aren't boring, so speak your mind.
Depth - 200 ft - The Simple Pump works to 300 + feet. the wattage is 285 each. Send me your well specs and I will get you a quote on a simple pump.
Thanks for the feedback.
That charge controller might be small but it works great! They are found all over the world in very harsh environments. Their charging algorithm is unique as well. Do you know something I don't know about the CC?
Understand.
Congrats on 300 vids.
The solar heater will basically be a built like a 2 x 6 wall attached to the outside of the building. It will have black screen material that collects the solar heat and releases it into the interior. I'm sure you've seen them. Do you think that will prevent the water system from freezing.
Congrats! Thanks for all the great videos. Even though I don't comment much I always enjoy them.
This is a fantastic looking setup. Really well done guys. :)
Very nice system, thanks for showing more of the process.
Yes, I need to do a block diagram. Cost ~ 10k
Have you thought about a dump load for the solar panels? Maybe a small water heater with a DC element to preheat the water source to the propane heater. That way you would get maximum use from all the power produced from the panels.
Very nice set up!
Thank You for the informative video, I am trying to learn as much as possible.
Yes, quite a few unlisted. oops
Great charge controller made in the great Mitten State of Michigan too !
Appreciate it.
Fantastic!
How will all of the PVC and tubing handle this during winter? I know some folks who have summer cottages near Chautauqua lake in NY state. They can't afford to keep the heat on all winter and they have different strategies. Some drain all of the water in the house, some leave every faucet just slightly open, a drip(wasteful, but functional).
Great video. What was the debt of that well? Is there a simple pump that works with 200 ft wells? What is the wattage of those panels?
Write a book Engineer775 Practical Preppers. I would buy it.
I have a rainwater collection system in a 10 X 16 room attached to my garage. It consists of 4 275 gallon totes, 4 55 gallon barrels and a shallow well pump with a pressure tank. I am concerned about how to keep it all from freezing. You mentioned a couple times that your big tank will provide thermal mass that will keep the building warm. How does the big tank absorb heat in the first place? I am thinking of putting a passive solar heater on the outside of the south facing wall. cont..
Appreciate it!
I wish my water table was that High.. my pump is down 380 feet on a 420 foot well.. I would love to have a shallow well as you have, just to put a hand pump. Nice set of solar panels you got there. I would have use a bigger gauge wire between battery's for the amp loads... GREAT VIDEO THANK YOU....
Your numbers do not tell me your static level. How far from the ground level to the top of your water?
it is about 20 feet...
keep in mind as I use the water in the house that level will drop a LOT.
Got it. Removing post. Email me through Practical Preppers
Hi very nice set up !!!!
great stuff,but why cheap out on charge controller for those expensive batteries?
Without a well, I plan to use water in a rain catching system on relatively flat land with
a few thousand gallon tank. Would this setup work in a similar setting to pump water from the tank through a purifying system and directly into the house? I have been searching and cannot find a setup that would allow me to do that.
Great Video, as always, Engineer775! Lots of interesting info, here. Since you've shown so much of this particular system, is there any chance that you could show a block diagram of the whole thing? I know each system is different, but I'm also curious about the cost for this system. Thanks, and keep up the great work!
Great job!
would you have a diagram of all this? what goes to what?
Thanks
So every thing is exposed ....lines , pump , filter etc. all above ground .... it does not freeze where your at ? if so thts great ... Im running a 48 volt system off grid and I trenched my water line from tank to cabin ....it freezes here below zero here sometimes in the winters .....so have to bury , insulate every thing ....
Hi Ski Bum. The entire system is enclosed and insulated. All of the water lines are insulated and or buried. We have no frost line in Eastern Carolina so the pipes only have to be 18 to 24 inches underground. That’s one of the reasons we left the great White North.
Did the big tank keep that building from freezing in extreme cold weather? How cold did it get in there?
JY, The cistern moderates the temp swing, it does not freeze, but the pipes might. Outside temps below 20 deg and we play it safe with a small kerosene heater.
@@1NCCCH thanks
10/4
I'm getting close to having my well drilled. Depth will be 280 feet. Static water is 30 feet less than that. How can I incorporate solar, or a solar backup? I do have 290 watts of panels, a midnight 150 charge controller and 4, six volt golf cart batteries...
Nice system.
If you had extra energy (batteries full) could you dump the extra heat into the tank with a heater to also keep the temp of the house up?
Where do you buy the solar submersible pump?
What about the exposed pvc from the well pump in winter?
word of caution, never install fuses in with batteries unless sealed type and even then its frowned upon, the use of open bladed type which are not rated for operating in a volatile environment. in the event / condition of over load, high current situation and under normal charging and discharge state, battery's generate hydrogen gas if for what ever reason the moment of arc / flash when the fuse blows will ignite the hydrogen gas and cause the battery to rupture,end of battery.
apart from that looks good
I have a random completely unrelated pump question. We have just your standard well pump and when your running the water for any period of time the water pressure fluctuates a lot from a almost nothing to crazy high. Seems like pump keeps turning on and off. Any idea of the cause/is that normal?
Sounds like you have lost storage / expansion on your system, you probably need a new pressure tank. I could be wrong only 25 yrs experience but that would be my initial diagnosis.
What would you guess the estimated cost of this project is?
What do you do to prevent freezing? South Car is a bit warmer than New England in winter. Thanks.
In New England , Pitless adapters would be used int eh well and all plumbing would be buried below the frost line. The booster pump would be kept in a heated mechanical room. So standard freeze proofing techniques would apply but the system would work the same. We have done this in Maine.
@engineer775, how deep is your well? any thoughts on a 240v/20A submersible at 280' ? and how it would run on solar? how do you like the Simple PumP?
A battery bank and 240v inverter could work for your pump
Did you help the Kilcher son put his water in at his homestead house. Interesting I thought of you.
How do you keep that storage water fresh?
Good stuff man
You must have some unlisted videos because it says on my screen this is the 254th
Kilcher son?
what type/size submersible pump did you use?
why not put the tank and other stuff closer to the well head so it is all in the same building? Is it a bad idea to surround the well inside a building?
Dave, we decided to keep the wellhead clear in case the casing failed and had to be rebored. I may eventually build a small shed over the well head to protect it better than the plastic rock that now covers it. The cistern house is tucked back into the wood line in order to keep the field clear. The distance from solar array to wellhead is about 15 feet and from Wellhead to cistern house is only about 30 feet.
Good stuff
Nice
Practical Preppers dot com
???
Nice outfit