Another one I can confidently recommend is the "Sencore Continental MU140" or "Sencore Continental II MU150 (newer)". I have the MU140 and it's been a great dynamic mutual conductance tester. Out of the box, it has 30 different sockets and a blank plate that can be removed to add more. I haven't found a tube it doesn't do but, I'm sure there are some out there so, it's nice to have the option to add sockets. It does every major test you need: Dynamic Mutual Conductance, GM Emissions, Grid Leakage, Shorts, and one of my favorite features that you don't see on many testers is a "Life" test that forecasts the life expectancy of a tube. I've had my tester for about 20 years and it's still going strong. I have a few other testers but, none of them even come close. Check it out.
Boy am I really glad I haven't bought a tube tester until now having just watched this short introduction to tube testers! This is an incredibly useful overview that is an absolute must-read for anyone out on the market for a second hand tube tester without any idea of what they're buying. I guess when these were originally made tubes and tube testers were rather expensive devices so people often opted for the cheapest possible solutions sometimes. Now tubes are catering for a rather particular market (actually two markets) which can be rather esoteric and where premium quality prices are paid and are expected. In this latter case, many of these budget, low specification tube checkers/testers are simply irrelevant.
I work in electronics and am just recently dipping my toes into restoring antique radios, starting with my 1946 (I think) Magnavox Belvedere 342H. I noticed when I began looking for tube testers that the variety out there gives a lot of information to take in for a beginner. I'm grateful I stumbled on your video. Time to crack a beer and have a watch!
Thank you for this very informative video presentation. It effectively describes the various historical levels of testing and measuring vintage vacuum tubes. For my part, I joined Sencore Electronics after the factory moved from Addison, IL, to Sioux Falls, SD, to be nearer to the home region of the company founder, Herb Bowden, in the southeast portion of the state. Hired as a factory service technician, I learned to fix a number of Sencore products. My favorite was the Sencore TC162 Tube Tester. At one time, the service department manager came to my workbench, saying, "Bob, we've noticed that you are picking out TC162s from the racks and repairing them ahead of others in the FIFO sequence, such that your production rating has dropped to 82%." I was fixing the grid emission and the selector switch problems myself faster than the repair and soldering team. I responded, "I grew up in my Dad's radio-TV-appliance store in the 1950s and 1960s, and have done home service calls around the town. The important thing is to fix the customer's set, and be done. Compared to my experience in the family store, with Hickock and B&K as "engineering parameter measurement" devices, those simple "Go-No Go" testers were the local serviceman's major source of income, such that I needed to turn them around as fast as I could." The service manager agreed and understood. I later became a Factory Field Engineer, writing several product instruction manuals, 'Sencore News' promotional tabloids, and other publications.
I love my Sencore TC-130, given to me by my Uncle Bob. It's just an emissions tester, but had a rep as 'the best shorts test in the Industry." I still use it on my bench today, never let me down. Really like your channel.
At about 12:00, I have some comments: for starters, the Hickok 6000 was primarily aimed at color TV repairman, and are usually found with a socket arrangement the favors testing of 12 pin "compactron" and nine pin "Magnoval" tubes used in color TV's. The 6000 can generally test most of the tubes you would find in a late 1950s thru 1960s tube hifi or guitar amp, but finding the necessary replacement modular socket "plate" and the setup data for testing older tube types can be nearly impossible ( typically, you can't even test the unit's internal type 83 mercury vapor rectifier tube on a Hickok 6000a!). The socket plate , as they are known, is a modular, plug-in device; Hickok did make a replacement tube socket plate that included sockets for some of the earlier radio-tube types going back to the 1930s, but those replacement socket plates are nearly impossible to find, and the testing data is also difficult to find. Also, the continually rotary pot that adjusts the GM or micromho ranges, also known as the "English pot" , which allows you to choose whether you read the tube on a simple good/ bad scale, versus actual numerical transconductance values, is difficult to set exactly the same by eye each time and therefore makes exact repeatable testing difficult. The "English" pot has little divots with black paint in them as markers for setting the continuously variable potentiometer to the 3000, 6000, and 12000 gM transconductance ranges, and you need to set the silk screened pointer marking on the tester's faceplate to exact dead center of those little divots or dots, which I find annoying..... and if the knob ever comes a little loose on the potentiometer shaft and spins slightly, your calibration is off. Good luck getting it back to exactly where it's supposed to be mechanically and electrically. I prefer a tester design that uses a click-stop rotary switch to set the sensitivity or measurement ranges. The Hickok 600 or 600A would certainly be a better choice than a 6000 for most tube equipment aficionados. The 600 looks somewhat similar to the 6000 at first glance (same compact red cabinet) but it doesn't have the plug-in socket module and the sockets are mounted to the actual faceplate; it's basically a much more compact and portable version of the earlier Hickok 533; the 600 is in my opinion a much better choice for the majority of audio, guitar amp and radio tube testing than the 6000 (although the continuously variable range-setting " English" pot found on the 600 is still a royal pain in the neck). Set-up data for the tube types that most of us care about is far more easily available for a 600 that it is for a 6000, and the 600 should have nearly all of the socket types you'll ever need already built in. Note however, that the crowded interior of both the 600 and 6000 makes them very very difficult to work on! Frankly, my personal feeling is that a Hickok 533 or 533A especially is a much better overall machine for the bulk of tube testing that folks are likely to find themselves doing. The 533 will test most 1930s and 40s tube types, continuing right up into the tubes we see in 1960s audio and guitar amps. They are big and roomy inside, and far easier to do maintenance and repair work on, such as change socket or bolt a socket saver into place, and so forth. By the way, the Triplett is a 3444, not a 344. There was a later "A" version, I think it had an extra socket or two as I recall. The 3444 was also marketed under the "Westmore" brand, whoever the heck they were. I have one of the Westmore branded Triplett testers, but the calibration is way off, it's another of those projects I haven't gotten to.
I use a 539a in my shop. It is fully functional but well used. About a year ago I was at a garage sale and bought a TV7 and a 539c both brand new. Both were from New York State and they sat for decades never even unboxed! This video reminded me that I have them. I think I should find them a good home with someone that will use them before I assume room temperature.
Most sophisticated tester known to me would be the Roetester from Germany,you have to build it yourself and still very expensive.Prints out report of each tube from computer.Think it was able to test 1500 diff. tubes last time looked.
That was brilliant. I find I use a basic emission tester most often, cheap and quick and give a decent indicator of tube health - You can get to know what to expect from the tubes you use a lot. Also I find it useful to get a bit more life out of a tired tube (Just for me...not for resale - never do that) by doing a quick and dirty rejuvenation. Running the heaters hot for a few seconds, you can try going up in stages (Cheap testers will often not have the current available to pop the heater anyway) and see the emission come up - SOMETIMES - and make a throw away useable for an unspecified time. I had a whole box of EL84s that were low emission. I've had a couple of years use from a handful of throwaways. Keep an eye on them for the first few hours and measure in circuit to confirm health. Don't over run heaters on a valuable cherished tube, unless it's had its day.
I myself have an I-177, an AVO MK4, a sencore Mighty Might 4. The most recommend and compact one is MK4, but the other two are also very good in daily use! Thank you for this vid!
Great video for a newbie like me who is interested in getting into testing and matching tubes, maybe for a small side job. Thanks for taking the time to do this video
Thank you for this perfectly timed video as I was in the market for a tube tester and you saved me a lot of grief and money. After seeing this I dumped my list of choices and managed to find a fully restored EIO 666 with manual and 610 adapter as well as a stack of miscellaneous booklets for an absolute steal of a price. I would of been stuck with a shelf queen of a tester if it wasn't for your excellent tutorial. Looking forward to your upcoming restoration on your EICOs
I was given one of those small digital output tube bias testers. It worked great & gave you plate voltage & current with ease, HOWEVER it became evident if you were setting bias on tubes that were older & happen to short while you were setting the bias, it fried the digital processor immediately. I have wondered if the newer digital/computer tube testers have adequate protection for such scenarios of a tube that decides to short while you're testing it. I've got the Hickok 600A and I have no issue setting the dials for each tube section or testing multiple tubes for repair purposes.
thanks blueglow was looking to buy a sencore but was not sure if it was what i was really looking for. thanks for your informative video now i have a better idea what to watch out for
Love your channel. I've used an Eico 625 for 15 years. I think the some of the emissions testers are well worth having. I have the 610a adapter to test compactron tubes also. It's really never let me down. At least I know if a tube is good or bad when repairing a piece of vintage gear. I have a little setup that I can use my HV power supply with different filament voltages to check performance.
This is the best of the many articles that I have read on tube testers. It is simple and yet covers the subject to a good depth. The 666 I inherited turns out to be exactly what I need. Did you know Eico had a conversion to replace an older socket with a compactron socket? Mine had that done.
Great video. I have read somewhere that the u tracer and e tracer don't test the tube under full load because it pulses the voltage. Any thoughts on that?
Currently I own the Hickok 800A; came calibrated with spare parts, complete set of manuals, updated roller chart, extra bias and line fuses, knobs, plate and grid connectors, finally listings of tube that are not listed on the replacement chart and foreign types. The unit is very clean and in outstanding shape; overall a great tester that covers extensive variety of tubes, "eBay buy" early testing bares out calibration, your thoughts would be appreciated.
A friend & I talking about building power tube tester - for ham radio amps . He sells lots of old tube ham gear & audio , some stuff is too big & heavy to ship - can be good sources for large transformer / power supplies . On of these days ;)
Hi @blueglow I am a musician and want to measure some tubes if they match. I don’t like the orange, could you recommend me a tester please ? I need a Europe volt tester… thx
Hi BLUEGLOW.Any idea where one can obtain up to date tube charts for these things? I have an old Australian made jobby from the late 40's but no references for 5881 tubes in that. I followed 6L6 settings but im not sure if they're exactly same. I know fiament v is 6.3 on both but thats all i can tell.???
Hi Mark, I've acquired my late Uncle's B&K Dyna Tester 625 with limited documentation and haven't found any information about it online. I think it was more of a TV CRT tester with a VOM and other functions. Could you shed some light on this or point me in the right direction? I also got boxes and carriers full of tubes but suppose that's for another time. Thanks for the great videos on everything vacuum tubes.
I've got the Orange Divo and an Eico 666. With the adapter for the Eico, I've not found a tube I can't test........ the I would use for something I do anyway.
I have basic knowledge of electronics. I own some tube audio gears and radio tubes. I can fix minor issues of tube audio gears. Would you please recommend a tube tester that can test power tubes like EL84 and EL34. Your advice is greatly appreciated!
Isn’t the even bigger over-arching issue, finding GOOD tube testers that still work properly, and are calibrated properly? I suspect that ALMOST NONE found on eBay are up to it, unless specifically advertised as being restored and calibrated, and I’d even be skeptical then, and even such claims are super rare at best…
So I have a array of different things that require tubes from a Gieger counter to radios to a 1950s television in my Collection would a consumer mutual conductance tube tester be the right choice considering I'm really just a hobbyist? I've been looking at a B&K 700 DYNA-JET Tube tester
I've got a triplett 2413 tester. I can test the tube in the 'value' setting. If two tubes read the same on the meter ( in the 'good' range) does rhat mean they are matched? For example each side of a 5u4 reads 94 on the meter , does rhat indicate a ' matched tube'?
Very informative video, lots of good information. I have been a ham radio operator for many years and I enjoy restoring and using vintage communication equipment and test equipment. I use my Sylvania Model 220 quit a bit but I have recognized some of its shortcomings. I would like to upgrade to a TV7-U. What do you think of the 220. I would be interested in your opinion. Thank you, Jim KA4HLT
Thanks a lot MW. I'm a just retired electrician looking at hobby as both my sons play guitar and misc. Could you please say a few words re the B&K Precision 747 Dyna-Jet Dynamic tube tester. I saw It, but maybe you just ran out of time?? It would be very much appreciated!!!
Hi Mark. Could you please elaborate on the following question in one of your future video's? I read about NOS tubes suffering from helium having infiltrated through the glass envelope over the years, compromising the vacuum. Is this just another audifool's myth, or is there reason for concern when using NOS tubes? Is there a way to check the quality of the vacuum?
Helium? Really? I doubt there's enough residual helium in the atmosphere to cause a problem by infiltrating vacuum tubes. Helium is also an inert gas and I don't know if it would even cause problems if there were traces of helium inside a tube. Nor do I expect that helium, or any other atmospheric gas, would be able to penetrate the crystalline molecular structure of the glass. When tubes actually lose their vacuum, and suck air inside of them, it's invariably due to either a crack in the glass or a failure of the seal where the glass is molded around the pins or wires, which isn't all that common in my experience unless the tubes have gotten wet or been stored somewhere damp for a long time and corrosion has crept up between the pins and the glass. The expansion caused by crystalline corrosion as it grows can affect the seal. Anyway, if air gets into the tube, the Getters, the Silvery flashing on the inside of the glass, will turn as white as snow. The tube heaters weren't designed to be able to be heated in the presence of air or oxygen, and the filament or heater will probably burn out pretty quickly if you try to power up such a tube. When somebody refers to a tube as being gassy, or testing or operating as if it is gassy, this usually means that the tube has excessive current flowing from the grid and or between the two elements in a way that it should not, because the grid is not supposed to emit electrons and the tube is not supposed to turn on and conduct very much at all until the signal on the grid tells it to. A contaminated vacuum that is essentially conductive can cause the tube to behave erratically, sometimes drawing enough current to cause the plates of the tube to glow cherry red, stressing the other components in that area of the circuit as well. Tubes are generally manufactured using techniques that briefly heat the metal parts red hot with microwaves or similar radio frequencies, some kind of inductive heating, as the air is being drawn out of the tube. This is supposed to help remove any gaseous contaminants, including solvents and water vapor, from the metal parts of the tube has the vacuum is being formed. The wire loops that hold the getter material, which I have read is usually some kind of barium or magnesium alloy, are then zapped with a high intensity radio frequency or magnetic field that splatters the material on to the inside of the glass so that it can further react with and neutralize any gaseous contaminants. Generally speaking, most tubes, if well manufactured, can sit in a box for 50 years and still be perfectly good, but I have seen some cases of tubes that apparently become gassy in storage, presumably because they weren't run and sat around idle for 40 or 50 or 60 years, and the getters didn't have a chance to absorb and neutralize contaminants. Maybe they'll clean up after some run time, and maybe they won't. Anyway, watch some vintage footage of tubes being manufactured, there's lots of that stuff on RUclips. by the way, contaminants on the grid or the mica spacers or on any of the metal parts can also cause grid emission or some kind of similar grid current scenario, leading to thermal run away. if any of that getter material get spattered on the tube elements or spacers, even in microscopic amounts, that could be a real problem. Some tube testers such as my Hickok 752 can actually read enter element leakage as high as ten meg ohms, right on the main meter. ideally, there shouldn't be any inter element leakage whatsoever.
Hey Mark, recently came across your channel. I've been binging on content lately. I have a TV10DU military tester. How do they compare to the more publicised TV7? Is the calibration similar for both models?
$3,000.00 for a Tektronix 576?? 1/2 of that might be shipping :) I've got two of them. I think one is missing a knob. I have a Hickok 539C and 800A. I have an old Eico but I'm not home and I don't remember the model (it's one of the better testers). I have a uTracer. And I just finished building the eTracer. I think the eTracer will be my favorite followed by the 539C.
Excellent video! I luckily inherited an old Hikock 605A, which is apparently perfect for checking tubes like KT88’s, EL34’s or anything in the 12A** family. I do need to replace the 85 type tube in it though. Is it alright to use one of those transistor type plug ins for this particular application, or do I need to replace it with a real 85 type tube? Again, thanks very much for the helpful video, Mark!
Did you mean to write "type 83 tube"? Mercury vapor rectifier?! Having owned a number of different Hickoks, my advice is to stick with the original tube and don't upgrade to solid state rectification. The increased DC B+ from a solid-state rectifier would inadvertently cause you to "compensate" and set the "line" adjust, the input-AC voltage adjust knob, lower than usual; the center position "line-adjust" point on the meter corresponds to 150 volts DC , and since you by installing a solid-state rectifier you have modified the unit in a manner that increases the B+ voltage supply all by itself, without increasing any of the other voltage supplies by approximately the same percentage, when you "calibrate" your modified (solid-state rectifier) tube tester with the line-adjust control you are now essentially lowering your screen voltage, grid voltage, bias voltage, and perhaps most importantly, the filament voltages. As Alan Douglas noted in his book " Tube Testers and Classic Test Equipment", interactions abound, but they all seem to be compensatory for each other. Anyway, you'd have to recalibrate the machine, and since there aren't a lot of adjustments inside most Hickok tube testers, you wood probably have to do modifications to it. Also, I think the heat of the rectifier tube is a bonus, it helps dry out the inside of the machine periodically, whenever it's used. For vintage electronic devices, keeping them dry is of paramount importance.
@good ‘un Yeah, sorry. I did mean type 83 tube. Thanks so much for the information instead of attacking me for not knowing something. That’s truly a breathe of fresh air. I wish more people would just help out instead of putting people down. We’d all learn a whole bunch more. At least that’s the way I see it and what I try and do too, and I’m sure I’m correct with that one. Again, thanks so very much for the valuable info. The VC and audiophiles tend to be a much more caring bunch of individuals, which is another reason I’ve been a part of it for many years, am a part of it, and will continue to be.
@@NickP333 , you're welcome! By the way, I went back to my original post and added some information and fixed my mistakes, you might find it makes more sense now if you go back and reread it. I did mention Allen Douglas and his book about tube testers, you might want to pick up a copy of that. Anyway, some of the *working, useable* Hickok testers I have owned include a 533, a 539C, a 600, a 6000, and a 752A. ( Not including a few other machines that have been sitting around for years waiting for me to get around to repairing or calibrating them). My personal favorite of all of them, is a 752, or 752 A. These will test the two halves of a dual triode at the push of just one button without having to completely reset up the tester for the second half of the triode! Set- up data is available for the 752 series that stretches back to the 1930s, continuing right up until the 1970s (the 752A also added a couple sockets for testing 12 pin compactron tv tubes, a few of which were occasionally seen in Ampeg guitar amps and late model HH Scott tuners, and 9 pin Novar tubes such as the 7868 audio tube ---- basically a 7591 with a radically different base and pinout ---- and adapters for testing these types on the earlier 752 were also available). The 752 series doesn't really include data for the majority of proprietary Western Electric types, nor for some very early 1920s radio tubes, but because the 752 has a pin for pin tube set-up selection system for all of the rotary switches, it is sometimes possible to figure out, reverse engineer or extrapolate how to test tubes for which you do not have the requisite data. Excellent machines, although pretty pricey these days. I bought my first 752 at a general purpose, garden variety flea market about 20 years ago for $30! No paperwork included other than the built-in roll chart, and I remember complaining at the time that it cost me 60 bucks to buy photocopied owner's manuals and supplementary tube- test manuals for it! Since that time, I had found other people with different year roll charts and different year supplementary paperwork and we photocopied each other's paperwork and swapped the test data around. A few years later I came across an affordable 752A online, I think it cost me about five hundred bucks about 15 years ago, so I sold the original 752; and the 752a has since become my go-to tester. It is extremely rare to come across a tube I can't test on the 752 (A)! I also have a 539 C, which one might argue does an even more rigorous or controlled test then the 752, but it's certainly not as fast to use as the 752 and you have to reset it up all over again in order to check the second half of a Triode. Anyway, the last time I went to use it a few years ago it wasn't working right. Another project that I will have to get to eventually!
You might be a little off on prices--just checked eBay and of the 12 or so TV-7's listed the cheapest working unit was around $500; most others were in the $700-$900 range.
He might be thinking of hamfest prices, but even those have gone up significantly in recent years. Time was that you could regularly pick up Hickok or a TV 7 or similar for less than a hundred bucks, sometimes as little as 25 to 50, but a decade ago when I was going to hamfests regularly most people wanted the better part of three hundred bucks for a decent tube tester.
Hey, I have about 3000+ radio tubes valves that I purchased in a deceased estate sale. Which tester is a good price/performance point, which will do a wide variety of tubes, and is somewhat common on Ebay?
My recommendation is the Hickok 533 or preferably 533A. Fairly common, not as expensive as many other makes and models, testing data is widely available, And it will test most tubes from the 1930s up to the early 1960s. Shipping-Wise, the only downside is that it is large and bulky. Which is actually an advantage should you need to replace a worn out tube socket or clean the switches and controls or change a "socket saver" or do any kind of minor service on it. The military grade Hickoks in a small metal case are a bitch to work on! Ditto for the Hickok 600/600A, small case, circuits packed like sardines. Caveat: make sure you have right of return, as typically only 1 in 4 testers is working anywhere near properly at this point. If a seller mentions having cleaned the switches and controls, ask how this was done. If you hear the word "sprayed", walk away! Spraying electronic cleaner willy-nilly into a tube tester can ruin it permanently.
I have a Home N Save TC101 that i was given to by my grandfather before he passed. I never got the manual from him and ive been searching for one for awhile. If any one knows someone or where to purchase the manual please let me know. Thanks. Thanks for this video :-)
[Recommendation needed] Hello! I’d very much appreciate anyone’s expertise in a tube tester. I’m a beginner tube user. I just got into tubes. I’m currently looking for a tube tester to measure my power amp using Toshiba 6G-B8 power tubes and 9 pin preamp tubes such as 12AX7, 6AU6, 6DJ8, 12AT7 etc… I’m a casual user just looking for tube tester in the price range of about $150-$300 tester. If anyone has any recommendations I’d very much appreciate it^^
Whats the difference between a Hickok TV-7D/U and a Hickok TV-7/U and other variations of that model number? I've been needing a tube tester bad for testing my guitar amp tubes and NOS tubes I've ran across. Im also wainting to start dabbling in building and modding/servicing my own tube amps as a hobby so that would be my main use for the tester. I've been looking at the TV-7D/U and the Orange VT1000 for years now and I'm ready to buy. What would be a good price for a Hickok TV-7D/U ? How hard are they to calibrate? Should I expect to have to change all the capacitors and have it calibrated or do you think I can get one ready to go for a decent price? Whats the price difference between one needing calibrated and one ready to go? By the way I think I live right down the road from you.
I had said I would do some in 2019, the year is young. Few other projects on the plate. Besides, lots of guys doing SS videos on youtube (XrayTony, TomTek, 12volt vids, etc.)
Great video I would of moved that 6000a to consumer mutual conductance tube tester reason being it's got no fixed gm switch so it's not as accurate. I would put a hickok 752A in its place. I will be selling my 6000a as I purchased a 752
I am a tube radio hobbyist ,most all my tubes are 7 pin miniatures ,I have a Heathkit tc-2 tube tester,I only pretty much only work on AA5 G.E. Radios ,that's why I bought a tube tester,I got tired of buying a new set of AA5 tube sets for each radio ,when I sure most of the tubes probably are good,but in aAA5 radio if one tube goes out none of them work ,and,I tired of buying a set of AA5 tubes for each radio ,I am on a fixed budget.so what do you or any of your fans think ofheathkit tc-2 tube tester ,I still learning how to use it if works good,I changed one capacitor in it ,used deoxit5 cleaned the controls ,And I have bought a 2500 ohm resistor for it ,the resistor in it works but it's a sand resistor and the coating flaking off so next time.I use it ,I will change that resistor out .
My tube tester is ,,,,,,,, tube sub from a good tube from another machine , this way i know if the machine is ok or the bub i sub is dad and i no have to paid big $ from stupid E BAY junk , i do this for 50 years with out any problem ,, so you video for me is useless
Another one I can confidently recommend is the "Sencore Continental MU140" or "Sencore Continental II MU150 (newer)". I have the MU140 and it's been a great dynamic mutual conductance tester. Out of the box, it has 30 different sockets and a blank plate that can be removed to add more. I haven't found a tube it doesn't do but, I'm sure there are some out there so, it's nice to have the option to add sockets. It does every major test you need: Dynamic Mutual Conductance, GM Emissions, Grid Leakage, Shorts, and one of my favorite features that you don't see on many testers is a "Life" test that forecasts the life expectancy of a tube. I've had my tester for about 20 years and it's still going strong. I have a few other testers but, none of them even come close. Check it out.
I do not understand why this channel is not way bigger than it is .......what a great guy.
Boy am I really glad I haven't bought a tube tester until now having just watched this short introduction to tube testers! This is an incredibly useful overview that is an absolute must-read for anyone out on the market for a second hand tube tester without any idea of what they're buying. I guess when these were originally made tubes and tube testers were rather expensive devices so people often opted for the cheapest possible solutions sometimes. Now tubes are catering for a rather particular market (actually two markets) which can be rather esoteric and where premium quality prices are paid and are expected. In this latter case, many of these budget, low specification tube checkers/testers are simply irrelevant.
I work in electronics and am just recently dipping my toes into restoring antique radios, starting with my 1946 (I think) Magnavox Belvedere 342H. I noticed when I began looking for tube testers that the variety out there gives a lot of information to take in for a beginner. I'm grateful I stumbled on your video. Time to crack a beer and have a watch!
Thank you for this very informative video presentation. It effectively describes the various historical levels of testing and measuring vintage vacuum tubes.
For my part, I joined Sencore Electronics after the factory moved from Addison, IL, to Sioux Falls, SD, to be nearer to the home region of the company founder, Herb Bowden, in the southeast portion of the state.
Hired as a factory service technician, I learned to fix a number of Sencore products. My favorite was the Sencore TC162 Tube Tester.
At one time, the service department manager came to my workbench, saying, "Bob, we've noticed that you are picking out TC162s from the racks and repairing them ahead of others in the FIFO sequence, such that your production rating has dropped to 82%." I was fixing the grid emission and the selector switch problems myself faster than the repair and soldering team.
I responded, "I grew up in my Dad's radio-TV-appliance store in the 1950s and 1960s, and have done home service calls around the town. The important thing is to fix the customer's set, and be done. Compared to my experience in the family store, with Hickock and B&K as "engineering parameter measurement" devices, those simple "Go-No Go" testers were the local serviceman's major source of income, such that I needed to turn them around as fast as I could." The service manager agreed and understood.
I later became a Factory Field Engineer, writing several product instruction manuals, 'Sencore News' promotional tabloids, and other publications.
Great video, Mark. I recommend it to anyone who asks me about tube testers.
I love my Sencore TC-130, given to me by my Uncle Bob. It's just an emissions tester, but had a rep as 'the best shorts test in the Industry." I still use it on my bench today, never let me down. Really like your channel.
At about 12:00, I have some comments: for starters, the Hickok 6000 was primarily aimed at color TV repairman, and are usually found with a socket arrangement the favors testing of 12 pin "compactron" and nine pin "Magnoval" tubes used in color TV's. The 6000 can generally test most of the tubes you would find in a late 1950s thru 1960s tube hifi or guitar amp, but finding the necessary replacement modular socket "plate" and the setup data for testing older tube types can be nearly impossible ( typically, you can't even test the unit's internal type 83 mercury vapor rectifier tube on a Hickok 6000a!). The socket plate , as they are known, is a modular, plug-in device; Hickok did make a replacement tube socket plate that included sockets for some of the earlier radio-tube types going back to the 1930s, but those replacement socket plates are nearly impossible to find, and the testing data is also difficult to find. Also, the continually rotary pot that adjusts the GM or micromho ranges, also known as the "English pot" , which allows you to choose whether you read the tube on a simple good/ bad scale, versus actual numerical transconductance values, is difficult to set exactly the same by eye each time and therefore makes exact repeatable testing difficult. The "English" pot has little divots with black paint in them as markers for setting the continuously variable potentiometer to the 3000, 6000, and 12000 gM transconductance ranges, and you need to set the silk screened pointer marking on the tester's faceplate to exact dead center of those little divots or dots, which I find annoying..... and if the knob ever comes a little loose on the potentiometer shaft and spins slightly, your calibration is off. Good luck getting it back to exactly where it's supposed to be mechanically and electrically. I prefer a tester design that uses a click-stop rotary switch to set the sensitivity or measurement ranges.
The Hickok 600 or 600A would certainly be a better choice than a 6000 for most tube equipment aficionados. The 600 looks somewhat similar to the 6000 at first glance (same compact red cabinet) but it doesn't have the plug-in socket module and the sockets are mounted to the actual faceplate; it's basically a much more compact and portable version of the earlier Hickok 533; the 600 is in my opinion a much better choice for the majority of audio, guitar amp and radio tube testing than the 6000 (although the continuously variable range-setting " English" pot found on the 600 is still a royal pain in the neck). Set-up data for the tube types that most of us care about is far more easily available for a 600 that it is for a 6000, and the 600 should have nearly all of the socket types you'll ever need already built in. Note however, that the crowded interior of both the 600 and 6000 makes them very very difficult to work on! Frankly, my personal feeling is that a Hickok 533 or 533A especially is a much better overall machine for the bulk of tube testing that folks are likely to find themselves doing. The 533 will test most 1930s and 40s tube types, continuing right up into the tubes we see in 1960s audio and guitar amps. They are big and roomy inside, and far easier to do maintenance and repair work on, such as change socket or bolt a socket saver into place, and so forth.
By the way, the Triplett is a 3444, not a 344. There was a later "A" version, I think it had an extra socket or two as I recall. The 3444 was also marketed under the "Westmore" brand, whoever the heck they were. I have one of the Westmore branded Triplett testers, but the calibration is way off, it's another of those projects I haven't gotten to.
i'm beyond sold on the Etracer, excellent job 👏👏👏
I use a 539a in my shop. It is fully functional but well used. About a year ago I was at a garage sale and bought a TV7 and a 539c both brand new. Both were from New York State and they sat for decades never even unboxed! This video reminded me that I have them. I think I should find them a good home with someone that will use them before I assume room temperature.
If you haven’t found a home for these yet let me know!
Most sophisticated tester known to me would be the Roetester from Germany,you have to build it yourself and still very expensive.Prints out report of each tube from computer.Think it was able to test 1500 diff. tubes last time looked.
That was brilliant. I find I use a basic emission tester most often, cheap and quick and give a decent indicator of tube health - You can get to know what to expect from the tubes you use a lot.
Also I find it useful to get a bit more life out of a tired tube (Just for me...not for resale - never do that) by doing a quick and dirty rejuvenation. Running the heaters hot for a few seconds, you can try going up in stages (Cheap testers will often not have the current available to pop the heater anyway) and see the emission come up - SOMETIMES - and make a throw away useable for an unspecified time. I had a whole box of EL84s that were low emission. I've had a couple of years use from a handful of throwaways. Keep an eye on them for the first few hours and measure in circuit to confirm health.
Don't over run heaters on a valuable cherished tube, unless it's had its day.
Thanks Mark. I have never seen this type of overview/guide anywhere for any price. Cheers!
I myself have an I-177, an AVO MK4, a sencore Mighty Might 4. The most recommend and compact one is MK4, but the other two are also very good in daily use! Thank you for this vid!
Great video for a newbie like me who is interested in getting into testing and matching tubes, maybe for a small side job. Thanks for taking the time to do this video
Great video Mark. Very comprehensive.
Good information that cleared up some of the fuzzy understanding I had about the different tube testers.
Good general overview of the Tube Tester/Checker variety and end-uses. Not something I have seen before.
Cheers Mark.
Thank you for this perfectly timed video as I was in the market for a tube tester and you saved me a lot of grief and money. After seeing this I dumped my list of choices and managed to find a fully restored EIO 666 with manual and 610 adapter as well as a stack of miscellaneous booklets for an absolute steal of a price. I would of been stuck with a shelf queen of a tester if it wasn't for your excellent tutorial. Looking forward to your upcoming restoration on your EICOs
as with most things Im late to the party... great video for someone thats dipping their feet into tube radios. I will be looking for a tube tester
I was given one of those small digital output tube bias testers. It worked great & gave you plate voltage & current with ease, HOWEVER it became evident if you were setting bias on tubes that were older & happen to short while you were setting the bias, it fried the digital processor immediately. I have wondered if the newer digital/computer tube testers have adequate protection for such scenarios of a tube that decides to short while you're testing it.
I've got the Hickok 600A and I have no issue setting the dials for each tube section or testing multiple tubes for repair purposes.
This is quality content, and very useful information for tube electronics collectors.
Very helpful video to get oriented in the tube tester world!
My go to tester is hickok 752 or 752A I own a 752 very fast at checking dual tubes without changing switches so matching is very accurate
thanks blueglow was looking to buy a sencore but was not sure if it was what i was really looking for. thanks for your informative video now i have a better idea what to watch out
for
Love your channel. I've used an Eico 625 for 15 years. I think the some of the emissions testers are well worth having. I have the 610a adapter to test compactron tubes also. It's really never let me down. At least I know if a tube is good or bad when repairing a piece of vintage gear. I have a little setup that I can use my HV power supply with different filament voltages to check performance.
Thank you. I have an old B&K Dyna-Quik 600 and an older 500 as well. I feel like I understand them better now too, along with all the new info. HAGD
This is the best of the many articles that I have read on tube testers. It is simple and yet covers the subject to a good depth. The 666 I inherited turns out to be exactly what I need. Did you know Eico had a conversion to replace an older socket with a compactron socket? Mine had that done.
Great vid on general tube tester strengths and weaknesses.
Great video. I have read somewhere that the u tracer and e tracer don't test the tube under full load because it pulses the voltage. Any thoughts on that?
Currently I own the Hickok 800A; came calibrated with spare parts, complete set of manuals, updated roller chart, extra bias and line fuses, knobs, plate and grid connectors, finally listings of tube that are not listed on the replacement chart and foreign types. The unit is very clean and in outstanding shape; overall a great tester that covers extensive variety of tubes, "eBay buy" early testing bares out calibration, your thoughts would be appreciated.
I HAVE USED MY AMPLITREX DAILY WITH NO ISSUE FOR 5 YEARS. REPLACED NOVAL SOCKET 2X FROM WEAR. ITS GREAT. BACKUP IS A TV-2/U ANDA FEW HICKOCK'S.
I'm seeing a lot of television-specific testers on ebay. Can these also be used for testing typical guitar amp tubes (12AX7/6L6/EL84/etc)?
T-H-A-N-K Y-O-U
Very well-organized presentation. Clear and understandable. Exactly what I needed to learn!
A friend & I talking about building power tube tester - for ham radio amps .
He sells lots of old tube ham gear & audio , some stuff is too big & heavy to ship - can be good sources for large transformer / power supplies .
On of these days ;)
Hi Mark, can you please tell me where my B&K 747B tube tester ranks? Thank you for the educational video.
Hey Mark, Hope all is well! what is your take on the TV3 testers? Hope you have a wonderful Easter!
Great video. One question though: Who would build me a specific tube tester for my 6c33c and 6sn7 tubes I,m using in my Balanced Audio gear?
How do the circuits work?
Hi @blueglow I am a musician and want to measure some tubes if they match. I don’t like the orange, could you recommend me a tester please ? I need a Europe volt tester… thx
Thank you 🙏!! This was very helpful for me!!
Hi BLUEGLOW.Any idea where one can obtain up to date tube charts for these things?
I have an old Australian made jobby from the late 40's but no references for 5881 tubes in that.
I followed 6L6 settings but im not sure if they're exactly same.
I know fiament v is 6.3 on both but thats all i can tell.???
I'm just looking for a tube tester to check my guitar amp tubes.
Hi Mark, I've acquired my late Uncle's B&K Dyna Tester 625 with limited documentation and haven't found any information about it online. I think it was more of a TV CRT tester with a VOM and other functions. Could you shed some light on this or point me in the right direction? I also got boxes and carriers full of tubes but suppose that's for another time. Thanks for the great videos on everything vacuum tubes.
Which 2 testers, if you really want to cover the era.
Great vid! Does the Hickok 600A test for leakage? Thanks!
I've got the Orange Divo and an Eico 666. With the adapter for the Eico, I've not found a tube I can't test........ the I would use for something I do anyway.
Mark thanks for the video! Do you have advice on how to evaluate tubes in an amplifier circuit in terms of how well they match.
Does Etracer test rectifier tubes? Does it also test for gassy tubes and shorts?
What is that tube tester at the bottom right?? 18:03
ok a lot of tester information,but i need more specfic . i have sanwa em604 vitage, iwant operatio guidance.
What your opinion of a precision 954-g then manual says its mutual conductance type but not sure of the quality of it - Charles
I see a weston 547 from 1929 for sale in town, is that suitable for a musician for amps?
For some crazy reason, all 3 of my hobbies use vacuum tubes
Where do those huge B&K testers fall into?
I have a perfect 1930 Dayrad Type B. I need to test some 201A tubes, which it indicates it can do. Do you know how to use it?
I have basic knowledge of electronics. I own some tube audio gears and radio tubes. I can fix minor issues of tube audio gears. Would you please recommend a tube tester that can test power tubes like EL84 and EL34. Your advice is greatly appreciated!
Isn’t the even bigger over-arching issue, finding GOOD tube testers that still work properly, and are calibrated properly? I suspect that ALMOST NONE found on eBay are up to it, unless specifically advertised as being restored and calibrated, and I’d even be skeptical then, and even such claims are super rare at best…
So I have a array of different things that require tubes from a Gieger counter to radios to a 1950s television in my Collection would a consumer mutual conductance tube tester be the right choice considering I'm really just a hobbyist? I've been looking at a B&K 700 DYNA-JET Tube tester
I've got a triplett 2413 tester. I can test the tube in the 'value' setting.
If two tubes read the same on the meter ( in the 'good' range) does rhat mean they are matched?
For example each side of a 5u4 reads 94 on the meter , does rhat indicate a ' matched tube'?
And if I get the same reading on the meter for two different 6l6 tubes , are they matched ?
Very informative video, lots of good information. I have been a ham radio operator for many years and I enjoy restoring and using vintage communication equipment and test equipment. I use my Sylvania Model 220 quit a bit but I have recognized some of its shortcomings. I would like to upgrade to a TV7-U. What do you think of the 220. I would be interested in your opinion. Thank you, Jim KA4HLT
I am looking for a tube tester that will work for old Ham radios and CB radios and ham amplifiers. What do you suggest?
Posting this video on the EEVblog forum
Why you did not mention Avo CT160 or Avo MK4 tube tester? They are more accurate that Hickok TV-7 or TV-2 tube tester.
Thanks a lot MW. I'm a just retired electrician looking at hobby as both my sons play guitar and misc. Could you please say a few words re the
B&K Precision 747 Dyna-Jet Dynamic tube tester. I saw It, but maybe you just ran out of time?? It would be very much appreciated!!!
Hi Mark. Could you please elaborate on the following question in one of your future video's? I read about NOS tubes suffering from helium having infiltrated through
the glass envelope over the years, compromising the vacuum. Is this just another audifool's myth, or is there reason for concern when using NOS tubes? Is there a way to check the quality of the vacuum?
Helium? Really? I doubt there's enough residual helium in the atmosphere to cause a problem by infiltrating vacuum tubes. Helium is also an inert gas and I don't know if it would even cause problems if there were traces of helium inside a tube. Nor do I expect that helium, or any other atmospheric gas, would be able to penetrate the crystalline molecular structure of the glass.
When tubes actually lose their vacuum, and suck air inside of them, it's invariably due to either a crack in the glass or a failure of the seal where the glass is molded around the pins or wires, which isn't all that common in my experience unless the tubes have gotten wet or been stored somewhere damp for a long time and corrosion has crept up between the pins and the glass. The expansion caused by crystalline corrosion as it grows can affect the seal. Anyway, if air gets into the tube, the Getters, the Silvery flashing on the inside of the glass, will turn as white as snow. The tube heaters weren't designed to be able to be heated in the presence of air or oxygen, and the filament or heater will probably burn out pretty quickly if you try to power up such a tube.
When somebody refers to a tube as being gassy, or testing or operating as if it is gassy, this usually means that the tube has excessive current flowing from the grid and or between the two elements in a way that it should not, because the grid is not supposed to emit electrons and the tube is not supposed to turn on and conduct very much at all until the signal on the grid tells it to. A contaminated vacuum that is essentially conductive can cause the tube to behave erratically, sometimes drawing enough current to cause the plates of the tube to glow cherry red, stressing the other components in that area of the circuit as well. Tubes are generally manufactured using techniques that briefly heat the metal parts red hot with microwaves or similar radio frequencies, some kind of inductive heating, as the air is being drawn out of the tube. This is supposed to help remove any gaseous contaminants, including solvents and water vapor, from the metal parts of the tube has the vacuum is being formed. The wire loops that hold the getter material, which I have read is usually some kind of barium or magnesium alloy, are then zapped with a high intensity radio frequency or magnetic field that splatters the material on to the inside of the glass so that it can further react with and neutralize any gaseous contaminants.
Generally speaking, most tubes, if well manufactured, can sit in a box for 50 years and still be perfectly good, but I have seen some cases of tubes that apparently become gassy in storage, presumably because they weren't run and sat around idle for 40 or 50 or 60 years, and the getters didn't have a chance to absorb and neutralize contaminants. Maybe they'll clean up after some run time, and maybe they won't. Anyway, watch some vintage footage of tubes being manufactured, there's lots of that stuff on RUclips.
by the way, contaminants on the grid or the mica spacers or on any of the metal parts can also cause grid emission or some kind of similar grid current scenario, leading to thermal run away. if any of that getter material get spattered on the tube elements or spacers, even in microscopic amounts, that could be a real problem. Some tube testers such as my Hickok 752 can actually read enter element leakage as high as ten meg ohms, right on the main meter. ideally, there shouldn't be any inter element leakage whatsoever.
Really good video. Thanks for sharing....
Hey Mark, recently came across your channel. I've been binging on content lately. I have a TV10DU military tester. How do they compare to the more publicised TV7?
Is the calibration similar for both models?
$3,000.00 for a Tektronix 576?? 1/2 of that might be shipping :) I've got two of them. I think one is missing a knob. I have a Hickok 539C and 800A. I have an old Eico but I'm not home and I don't remember the model (it's one of the better testers). I have a uTracer. And I just finished building the eTracer. I think the eTracer will be my favorite followed by the 539C.
Excellent tutorial. Thanks.
Very clear and usefull video. Thank you.
Excellent video! I luckily inherited an old Hikock 605A, which is apparently perfect for checking tubes like KT88’s, EL34’s or anything in the 12A** family.
I do need to replace the 85 type tube in it though.
Is it alright to use one of those transistor type plug ins for this particular application, or do I need to replace it with a real 85 type tube?
Again, thanks very much for the helpful video, Mark!
Did you mean to write "type 83 tube"? Mercury vapor rectifier?! Having owned a number of different Hickoks, my advice is to stick with the original tube and don't upgrade to solid state rectification. The increased DC B+ from a solid-state rectifier would inadvertently cause you to "compensate" and set the "line" adjust, the input-AC voltage adjust knob, lower than usual; the center position "line-adjust" point on the meter corresponds to 150 volts DC , and since you by installing a solid-state rectifier you have modified the unit in a manner that increases the B+ voltage supply all by itself, without increasing any of the other voltage supplies by approximately the same percentage, when you "calibrate" your modified (solid-state rectifier) tube tester with the line-adjust control you are now essentially lowering your screen voltage, grid voltage, bias voltage, and perhaps most importantly, the filament voltages. As Alan Douglas noted in his book " Tube Testers and Classic Test Equipment", interactions abound, but they all seem to be compensatory for each other. Anyway, you'd have to recalibrate the machine, and since there aren't a lot of adjustments inside most Hickok tube testers, you wood probably have to do modifications to it. Also, I think the heat of the rectifier tube is a bonus, it helps dry out the inside of the machine periodically, whenever it's used. For vintage electronic devices, keeping them dry is of paramount importance.
@good ‘un Yeah, sorry. I did mean type 83 tube. Thanks so much for the information instead of attacking me for not knowing something. That’s truly a breathe of fresh air. I wish more people would just help out instead of putting people down. We’d all learn a whole bunch more. At least that’s the way I see it and what I try and do too, and I’m sure I’m correct with that one.
Again, thanks so very much for the valuable info. The VC and audiophiles tend to be a much more caring bunch of individuals, which is another reason I’ve been a part of it for many years, am a part of it, and will continue to be.
@@NickP333 , you're welcome! By the way, I went back to my original post and added some information and fixed my mistakes, you might find it makes more sense now if you go back and reread it. I did mention Allen Douglas and his book about tube testers, you might want to pick up a copy of that. Anyway, some of the *working, useable* Hickok testers I have owned include a 533, a 539C, a 600, a 6000, and a 752A. ( Not including a few other machines that have been sitting around for years waiting for me to get around to repairing or calibrating them). My personal favorite of all of them, is a 752, or 752 A. These will test the two halves of a dual triode at the push of just one button without having to completely reset up the tester for the second half of the triode! Set- up data is available for the 752 series that stretches back to the 1930s, continuing right up until the 1970s (the 752A also added a couple sockets for testing 12 pin compactron tv tubes, a few of which were occasionally seen in Ampeg guitar amps and late model HH Scott tuners, and 9 pin Novar tubes such as the 7868 audio tube ---- basically a 7591 with a radically different base and pinout ---- and adapters for testing these types on the earlier 752 were also available). The 752 series doesn't really include data for the majority of proprietary Western Electric types, nor for some very early 1920s radio tubes, but because the 752 has a pin for pin tube set-up selection system for all of the rotary switches, it is sometimes possible to figure out, reverse engineer or extrapolate how to test tubes for which you do not have the requisite data. Excellent machines, although pretty pricey these days. I bought my first 752 at a general purpose, garden variety flea market about 20 years ago for $30! No paperwork included other than the built-in roll chart, and I remember complaining at the time that it cost me 60 bucks to buy photocopied owner's manuals and supplementary tube- test manuals for it! Since that time, I had found other people with different year roll charts and different year supplementary paperwork and we photocopied each other's paperwork and swapped the test data around. A few years later I came across an affordable 752A online, I think it cost me about five hundred bucks about 15 years ago, so I sold the original 752; and the 752a has since become my go-to tester. It is extremely rare to come across a tube I can't test on the 752 (A)!
I also have a 539 C, which one might argue does an even more rigorous or controlled test then the 752, but it's certainly not as fast to use as the 752 and you have to reset it up all over again in order to check the second half of a Triode. Anyway, the last time I went to use it a few years ago it wasn't working right. Another project that I will have to get to eventually!
You might be a little off on prices--just checked eBay and of the 12 or so TV-7's listed the cheapest working unit was around $500; most others were in the $700-$900 range.
He might be thinking of hamfest prices, but even those have gone up significantly in recent years. Time was that you could regularly pick up Hickok or a TV 7 or similar for less than a hundred bucks, sometimes as little as 25 to 50, but a decade ago when I was going to hamfests regularly most people wanted the better part of three hundred bucks for a decent tube tester.
Hey, I have about 3000+ radio tubes valves that I purchased in a deceased estate sale. Which tester is a good price/performance point, which will do a wide variety of tubes, and is somewhat common on Ebay?
My recommendation is the Hickok 533 or preferably 533A. Fairly common, not as expensive as many other makes and models, testing data is widely available, And it will test most tubes from the 1930s up to the early 1960s. Shipping-Wise, the only downside is that it is large and bulky. Which is actually an advantage should you need to replace a worn out tube socket or clean the switches and controls or change a "socket saver" or do any kind of minor service on it. The military grade Hickoks in a small metal case are a bitch to work on! Ditto for the Hickok 600/600A, small case, circuits packed like sardines. Caveat: make sure you have right of return, as typically only 1 in 4 testers is working anywhere near properly at this point. If a seller mentions having cleaned the switches and controls, ask how this was done. If you hear the word "sprayed", walk away! Spraying electronic cleaner willy-nilly into a tube tester can ruin it permanently.
@@goodun2974 great comment thanks for taking the time to write it
I have a Home N Save TC101 that i was given to by my grandfather before he passed. I never got the manual from him and ive been searching for one for awhile. If any one knows someone or where to purchase the manual please let me know. Thanks.
Thanks for this video :-)
What happened to the original video?
Had a section I wanted to updated so had to pull it and upload another version, this one is about 10 min longer.
I recommend Funke w19s
[Recommendation needed] Hello! I’d very much appreciate anyone’s expertise in a tube tester. I’m a beginner tube user. I just got into tubes. I’m currently looking for a tube tester to measure my power amp using Toshiba 6G-B8 power tubes and 9 pin preamp tubes such as 12AX7, 6AU6, 6DJ8, 12AT7 etc… I’m a casual user just looking for tube tester in the price range of about $150-$300 tester. If anyone has any recommendations I’d very much appreciate it^^
Thanks a lot! This is Very helpful!
WIll be looking for a Hicock 600 or 6000a!
Whats the difference between a Hickok TV-7D/U and a Hickok TV-7/U and other variations of that model number? I've been needing a tube tester bad for testing my guitar amp tubes and NOS tubes I've ran across. Im also wainting to start dabbling in building and modding/servicing my own tube amps as a hobby so that would be my main use for the tester. I've been looking at the TV-7D/U and the Orange VT1000 for years now and I'm ready to buy. What would be a good price for a Hickok TV-7D/U ? How hard are they to calibrate? Should I expect to have to change all the capacitors and have it calibrated or do you think I can get one ready to go for a decent price? Whats the price difference between one needing calibrated and one ready to go? By the way I think I live right down the road from you.
Thanks a lot. Very helpfull video.
Thank you so much!!
Thanks Mark...
No disrespect , but what happened to trouble Shooting solid state gear .
Some people like solid state some people like vacuum tube based equipment. His RUclips name and avatar kind of hints which direction he goes.
I had said I would do some in 2019, the year is young. Few other projects on the plate. Besides, lots of guys doing SS videos on youtube (XrayTony, TomTek, 12volt vids, etc.)
Great video I would of moved that 6000a to consumer mutual conductance tube tester reason being it's got no fixed gm switch so it's not as accurate. I would put a hickok 752A in its place. I will be selling my 6000a as I purchased a 752
I am a tube radio hobbyist ,most all my tubes are 7 pin miniatures ,I have a Heathkit tc-2 tube tester,I only pretty much only work on AA5 G.E. Radios ,that's why I bought a tube tester,I got tired of buying a new set of AA5 tube sets for each radio ,when I sure most of the tubes probably are good,but in aAA5 radio if one tube goes out none of them work ,and,I tired of buying a set of AA5 tubes for each radio ,I am on a fixed budget.so what do you or any of your fans think ofheathkit tc-2 tube tester ,I still learning how to use it if works good,I changed one capacitor in it ,used deoxit5 cleaned the controls ,And I have bought a 2500 ohm resistor for it ,the resistor in it works but it's a sand resistor and the coating flaking off so next time.I use it ,I will change that resistor out .
Amplictrex=Ridiculous prices.
"However..."
Typically
Another downside to the etracer is the 500 Dollars for the software. Extortionate. You build it yourself and pay for the privilege of using it
Very informative but I suggest not listening on headphones. Lots of lf thumping going on.
Hi Mark you forgot about ROE TEST roehrentest.de/EnglishInfo.html
My tube tester is ,,,,,,,, tube sub from a good tube from another machine , this way i know if the machine is ok or the bub i sub is dad and i no have to paid big $ from stupid E BAY junk , i do this for 50 years with out any problem ,, so you video for me is useless
Why do you give a useless comment,to a YT video,you find "useless"?That's still waisting "Less Time".