Bulletproof Fence Energizer Grounding Field.
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- Опубликовано: 13 янв 2022
- We will walk through the steps of putting in a bulletproof fence energizer grounding field.
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#tallgrassgrazing #morepasturelessland #extendingthegrazingseason #stocpilegrazing #gettingthemostoutofyourpastures #fencerrepair #fenceenergizer #kencove
As a retired telephone in AB, Canada, I have driven and tested my share of ground rods. Our standard was tested in resistance not voltage, and the maximum was 5 ohms or less. This standard helped keep noise off of the circuits and helped the ground return ringing circuits to operate. 🇨🇦
That is very interesting. I'm going look a little deeper it that. Is there a rod that is better than another?
@@RussWilson We used galvanized coated steel rods 9’ . When we had to installed a “ chemical “ ground (only in very poor, dry soil) we used solid copper rods which were laid in a trench and covered in chemicals. These ground types were used for large telecom towers which were usually on high hills which were often had poor grounds. 🇨🇦
@@richardcrossen9480 Thanks for the information.
You are a good learning resourse russ. I rarely miss. Also enjoyed your article in stockman grass farmer. By planting mixed species cover crops I extended the grazing season 2 months. Never fed hay till new year. Cows never in better shape. North dakota.
Thanks Dwight!! You in a drought? Some parts of the west are really hurting for rain.
Great video Russ. I've never seen the drill driver technique but that worked really slick. Side note for anybody reading this... Don't ever bet with a man that claims he can drive an 8 foot ground rod all the way down with a 20 ounce plastic coke bottle cause it can be done and you'll be buying that man a box of his favorite frosty beverages....ask me how I know
LOL!! THanks or watching!!
This is a very very important topic. Good thing you did the investigation and made the changes. Great sharing.
Thanks!!
What size/gauge grounding wire?? Burying this wire is a terrific idea. Another great idea is the rotary drill. I have always waited till the "wet season" or poured water next to the ground post, which helps reduce the pounding. The rotary drill is a much better idea-avoiding wear and tear on the body. Thanks
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!!
Best wire is non coated #6 wire. Noncoated wire adds to your ground field (wire and cable). This will result in having to use less ground rods.
I learned more from this video than anything I have read or watched and I have lived on a farm with electric fence keeping in my mules/horses for 30 years. Every summer I have issues with low voltage. I was always going out and pouring water on my grounds. I Now I know why!! I used coated wire between my grounds and am going to switch it out with stainless steel. Thank you, thank you!
Thank you Russ!
Your welcome!!
I used to work on a dairy farm and the stray voltage came from the water heater. The scc was always high but we couldn’t figure out why. I’m very sensitive to electricity so I felt it in the wash water but no one else did. Once the water heater went bad and replaced the water heater, they had the lowest scc to the cheese plant. I heard cattle are super sensitive to electricity compared to humans. I forgot what the number was but it was a big difference like 10,000 times more sensitive or more humans. Thanks again for all your videos! I’m thinking I will have to add to my grounding system and a bigger charger too once I build more fences this coming spring.
Stray voltage sure can mess up a group of cows. Not something beef farmers think of very often.
Great info Russ! thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Great info as always Russ, you really got me to thinking now I’m checking my system for stray voltage
Stray voltage can really mess a herd up quickly. For all it takes to test it's well worth it. Thanks for watching!!
That works a heck of a lot better than a t-post driver. I have to get one of those.
You bet it does. Don't use very much when you do you appreciate having it.
That was great explained about grounding.
Thanks you
Thank you!
You're welcome!
I'm installing a Cyclops fencer and I set it up temporarily before I got my Timeless fence posts. To do that I made a temporary paddock with poly twine. I hooked the positive terminal to the twine and I hooked the negative up to the perimeter fence which is steel tee posts and a mix of barb wire and woven wire. Around here all the surrounding properties also have similar fences and they are all interconnected. That temporary setup is maxing out my fence tester at 10kv. I'm guessing that using dedicated ground rods is not going to get me a better ground field than the fencing that surrounds and cross fences several square miles!
If you have tee posts as your ground field you can't get much better than that. Only time it may give you troubles is if it gets really dry.
@@RussWilson it's about as dry as it gets right now and it's working like a champ!
@@RevM then you should be good to go. 👍
I found that out the hard way!@@RussWilson
Cool
Thanks for watching!!
Good video is the gr wire insulated or bare
GRW is bare wire trying to get as much contact as i can.
I just took a coke bottle full of water and put the ground rods in by hand even at -30 you can put them in by hand.
How does that work?
Questions: Could you just run a separate ground wire hooked to your fence posts and use jumper wires to each rod? That way you're out of dirt and don't need stainless steel wire. "Michigan State University Extension recommends, “Installing a minimum of 3 feet of ground rod per joule of output capacity." Is your rocky ground why you did so many? Or did your shorting technique indicate that many? "According to countless energizer manufacturers, it is recommended to have one joule per mile of fence and to maintain 3000 to 7000 volts to keep control of livestock." How do you determine how big of a fence charger? Thanks GW
Trust me a I did a lot more research on the grounding field than I wanted to. I wanted my rods buried with stainless steel wire to increase the grounding field I also didn't want a bunch of ground rods sticking out of the soil.One reason we have so many ground rods is we were getting stray voltage in our water from the fencer. It took 25 rods to get the stray voltage out of the water and I added a few extra to be safe. I used the shorting technique. I also spend a lot of time on the phone with the experts from cyclops and kencove figuring this problem out. We went with a 36 joule fencer cause the 24 joule we had could not keep the fence hot enough. We also have 4 wires hot all the time to make about 25 miles of fence. I disagree about keeping livestock in at 3000 volts. Cows yes sheep and goats no soon as my fence gets shorted down to 5000 volts the sheep start getting out. Great questions!!! Thanks for watching!!!
I have a Parmak 12 volt dc fence charger. When set up and simply using a short piece of rebar it puts out around 6000 volts. However when I put 35 foot ground rods (10ft apart) it will not function properly. Makes no sense and Parmak tech could not help me. Ground is sandy loam and moist. May be defect in charger?? Seems like unit discharges itself and resets when on better ground but works on short piece of rebar. I did not know about your test on putting tester ground probe in earth and touching ground rod. Not sure how it would show a positive voltage without leaking somewhere from fence. My fence is single strand and only 3 acres. Insulators good. No debris. Any thoughts? Thanks Andy
Hey Andy, I ve seen a lot of problems with fencers never ran in to yours before. DO you have a friend that uses a fence charger? Maybe take yours to their farms and try it. Don't know where you are. I have one here you could borrow and see if it works at your place. Thanks for Watching!!!
Can stray voltage get into the water supply if you're using plastic or rubber water troughs? Can you measure stray voltage at a metal trough using the meter with ground probe?
Yes stray voltage can get in to plastic or rubber stock tanks. It gets in a lot of ways. It can come in off the neutral wire off your powerline's that comes into your breaker box or fuse box. Had to have the electric company put neutral isolator on the transformer coming into our power service. we had 10 volts of stray voltage coming from the electric lines. By law it has to be below 1/2 volt. Another way is static electric from high voltage lines near by. Most of the time it gets in from a poorly made grounding field. Which we had and video is about. It can also come in from a piece of grass touching the fence and touching a hydrate. If a tap rooted plant touches the fence and the root goes down to a pipe joint that is metal can cause it to. The way to test it at the pump or tank. Use a regular multimeter that can register low voltage. Get a piece of 10' long wire for your ground stick it in the ground ten feet away from whatever you want to test. Hope that helped thanks for watching!!
@@RussWilson Thanks Russ. Great info!
Do you use insulated wire for your grounding wire? How do you get your step in post in the ground this time of yeat?
The wire connecting the ground rods is uninsulated wire. I just did a video on sticking posts in frozen soil. It is scheduled to debut on 1-21. Here's the link to that video ruclips.net/video/FOS7wIoa2lg/видео.html . If your soils that are frozen super hard. I like to tap them in with a rubber hammer. Thanks for watching!!!
I haven’t done this yet, but what I was considering doing, I don’t energize my bottom wire, I was just going to drive a rod in every so often and tie it down to that bottom wire which is tied to the negative of the charger, would this work or am I missing something that would make that a bad idea?
To add to this, my thought process behind it is, that’s basically how we do it with the electric grid, every pole has a pole ground on it attached to the neutral and connected to ground.
If your bottom wire is negative I can't see way it wouldn't work. You could space your ground rods out a lot more. Thanks for watching!!
Our original fence was two live wires on t-post. Insulated of course. Then winter hit in Canada. Once the ground froze hard we lost all power. We then ran a grounded barb wire center wire. That was hooked to all the t-posts and back to the ground rod at the fencer. That system works for us. The current between the wires is usually 9.9kv in the summer and 6 or 7kv in the winter. The down fall is the live wires get hooked on the barbs and grounds out the fence. Also wildlife wipe out the T-post insulators. Another short. Also we can get snow drifts right over the fence. Once that settles it is like a glacier wiping out insulators. Trying to avoid t-post in future fences, but still need a ground wire.
That is a good idea to run a ground on you fence in areas where it is dry or when the ground field stops working.
We also have few tee posts where wildlife would take the insulators off. We switched over to four inch fin tube insulators and hand tying them on. I can’t remember the last time I fixed an insulator. Problem solved!!
What did you use for ground rods & what wire connected them- coated or non? Fej
I used home depot ground rods. They went into a panic when i order 40 of them. Took some scraping but they had them. I used 12 gauge stainless steel wire to connect the rods. It was suggested by a subscriber 6 gauge wire maybe better. Great question.
Why so many rods? How did you figure out how many you really needed? An then that ground wire you just went ahead an barried it? Thanks Russ
We had stray voltage in our water from the fencer it took that many rods to get it out. We used the shorting method to figure out how many rods we needed. I explain it towards the end of the video. Yes we buried the wire between the grounding rods as it helps with the grounding system. Thanks for Watching!!!
one of the things I have found through the research and trial and error is it takes 1 ground rod per jule of output that your fencer is rated at.
this makes perfect sense to me S you used 29 rods plus the wire that connects them.
on a side note I can say the hammer drill for pounding them is brilliant
Interesting topic. I've not had stray issues that I am aware of, at least not with my water system. One of my primary ground rods is located at the gray water exit from the house so the soil stays wet - maybe that helps. Plus I'm only running cattle, a single perimeter strand at 3 kV is plenty. (As you suggest sheep and goats are different.) Couldn't you just as easily measure resistance with a cheap multimeter? ...goal being say less than 25 ohms?
Hey Ted I tried to use a multimeter at first but it got fried from the hire voltages. Thanks for watching!!
Thank you Russ!
Thanks for Watching!!