I have 3 BQ machines and they are brilliant. Simply put they work every time. Also the support is excellent and they are always willing to give advice and help. Great Company
Please remember PEI sheets. It is awesome for ABS and PLA. I think that you promoting the awareness of PEI sheets would really be good for the community.
Very nice review, you kept your integrity throughout :) Really liked the CNC'd extruder ... but disappointed at the lack of (heated) bed. Not rigid enough Z structure makes this quite a no-no ... And the beep. Oh dear god. The beep. NOPE. NOPE
I have one and I really love it... when it works. I bought my Hephestos 2 in mid January, and after a week it just started freazing in mid printing. And after days trying to find out what was wrong, the ratio of successful to freazing printings went from 50/50 in the first day it started having problems to 1/99 in about 4 days. I contacted BQ and they were terrific in sending me another machine. The problem was that the new machine had also problems, this time it had serious that QC is to be blamed, where the wholes in the rails were supposed to be fixed, well, they were just too large for the screws, so then again had to contact bq, and they sent me another horizontal piece, but only after about 2 days because they were "out of stock". In the end I lost an entire week waiting for that piece to arrive so I could build the machine. So much for 2 hours building it. Right now I have my second machine working for about two weeks, and fortunatelly this one doesn't freeze like in the first machine, but is having serious problems with the offset, like having to recalibrate it after every two printings. If I don't calibrate it two or 3 times in a row (because it can offset max 5mm and it still doesn't even get closer to the table), then it'll start printing about 2 or 3 cm above the table, and of course have to abort the printing. Of course Hard Reset is necessary everyday. But after all that nuisance prior to printing if the PLA adheres to the table and doesn't warp, and the fan doesn't start (dropping the nozzle temp to drop about 25ºC making the filament solid inside the nozzle), well, if all goes ok, then the printed object is AWESOME, and that's why I'm still hoping that this machine has future. This is my first printer, and the experience has been bitter-sweet. I hope that soon they'll have an upgrade with heated bed, because it's a shame that this machine only works with Laca for the best adhesion of the filament, and still without garantee of not warping. For me, I'll just pray this machine wont freeze up in the next weeks like the first. My advise to new buyers is to buy it, but only after a few more months, so bq can improve this printer with new upgrades and firmware.
Crazy how Prusa was such a small percentage of I3 sales back in the days... This was before the MK2, right? Its kinda easy looking back now, buying a Prusa MK1 would be the better option since just a few months later the MK2 came out that tore this printer to shreds, but still... This is why I love that Tom keeps these time capsule reviews up on his channel....
You should do a video or 2 that shows some common problems prints can have, explain what causes them, and how to go about fixing them. Another video could be about how to tune settings for specific types of prints, bridging, small detail, ect. Just an idea. Love the videos!
Thanks for doing such an awesome job on guides, reviews and everything else you do. When I saw how many subscribers you have, I thought it had to be a mistake as you've helped me with so much and I consider you an authority on all things 3D. Keep on and thanks again for all you do. I recommend your channel to all my maker friends.
Bro could you help me aswell to build prusa i3... I wanna make for myseld but the big problem I'm facing at the moment, from where i should buy the prusa parts especially extruder... Could you give me the link or any website, so i could buy from there
I have the first Bq Hephestos. Absoloute nightmare to setup and some of the parts are not the best printed and its quite messy. But let me tell you that when its setup and working. These things are completely bullet proof. They just keep working and working. The amount of knocks and abuse mine has taken it should have stopped working a long time ago but it just keeps going and it printed 100s and 100s of hours with it for over a year now. The HeatCore Unibody Extruder is the best one ive ever had and incredibly accurate. Their tech support however is not a god response time at all.
Hi Tom. I was wondering if you prefer a cartesian or delta printer? Also if you were to build your own 'dream' DIY printer what components would you use? Which main board, printer style, 1 or 2 (or more) hotends, hotend type, motors, motor drivers, screen and software?
I wish I had bought a kit like this to begin with. The build time of my Prusa is currently 425 days and counting. It's just such a mess. Crappy printed parts, no clear manual. Overall I think the Prusa is a sh*tty design to start with. In my opinion it's an engineering nightmare, but starting with a proper kit and with TLC it can be a made into a nice printer. You guys certainly made a good effort to eliminate many sources of frustration, and it seems to be a really nice product you are offering. To all the people considering to buy a 3d printer kit I'd like to say this. Don't buy a random cheap kit. Read some build reviews!!! It's really worth spending more "money units" on a well designed and well documented kit like for example this Hephestos 2!!! And Thomas. Thanks for all your video's, they've helped me a lot!!! Greetings from the Netherlands! ;)
I have one and I toyed with the idea of building a heated bed, but I'm going in the direction of a heated chamber with a standalone temperature controller. What do you think is better option before I set my mind in one?
Tom, you really need to look at the German RepRap Neo/x150, if you think sticker shock is in order for this guy. Yeah, not much in the way of "wow" factor, but I wouldn't discard it myself.
Did you use 3mm filament in the scene where you opened the extruder ? Because the little cog doesn't rotate at mine when I am pushing it in... Looking forward to an answer, don't know what to do anymore !
+Thomas Sanladerer Thanks for the quick answer. I just contacted them, when can I expect a reply ? By the way, this isn't the only problem I have... After a few lines of printing there just doesn't come any filament out of the nozzle. You incidentaly know how to solve that problem ? Thank you so much !
Thomas what did you study? I am currently studying electrical engineering, but im contemplating if I should change to something else. I am really interested in 3d printers, rasberry pi's and ect
Hi Tom love your videos learn a lot.. got my hephestos 2 two weeks before you reviewed it, then i got myself a Raspberry pi and did the following to get it up and running... but i don't know how to set up the profile for the hephestos 2.. found a plugin for my M3D micro so i can use it with octoprint... but not with my hephestos 2, can you please do a video on that part of the install..since you haven't touched the all octoprint UI how to.
needs improvement, especially at that price point. hopefully bq will address the issues and release a 2.1 version. 1) heated bed, this is non negotiable. absolutely required. 2) stepper whine. wtf, seriously. 3) i am not convinced by their explanation why they skipped using off the shelf proximity sensor.
Tom, I know you are busy but i am having a delma, i dont know if i should upgrade to a 32 bit board or just stick with the 8bit that really just work. I was looking at teh MKS Gen 1.3 for 8 bit and a smoothie board for the 32, but i want to run dual z motors and i would need the smoothieboard 5X which is about 169.00 us and the MKS is about 40-50 us. the other option is a MKS SBASE 32bit wich i can get for 50-80 us dollars but i am kinda up in the air about this. Can you give me some guidance for this?
+Thomas Sanladerer Thank you for the reply. it does seem like 32bit isn't really ready yet, i'll stick with that for now. any recommendation? or brands to stick with?
Seems a bit of a helfty price with no heated bed and a frame that wobbly, can't cost that much to include a heated bed and figure out some way to brace the frame, both are things that would improve day to day use a lot, along with PEI on the bed for ABS.
About adhesion compounds... Am I the only one using ACRYLIC MEDIUM to coat the built surface? This is cheap you can find it in any art store and PLA sticks amazingly well to it! Plus it doesn't need recoating for many, manyyyy... prints. :D
Ich verstehe einfach nicht warum es momentan keinen wirklich guten oder "perfekten" Prusa i3 ähnlichen Drucker gibt. Der Hephestos 2 hat einige interessante Ansätze, doch setzt diese eher schlechter um. Ich bin echt erstaunt das der Drucker Linearführungen benutzt welche in der Theorie höhere Genauigkeit bieten, hingegen macht das dünne Blech diesen Vorteil komplett weg. Was bringen mir Qualitativ hochwertige Komponenten wenn diese am Ende von einem extrem Wackligen Rahmen kaputt gemacht werden? Würde man anstelle eines Blechrahmens, ein Rahmen aus Aluminium Profil nehmen, sowie ein Beheiztes Bett und außerdem auf proprietäre Komponenten wie den Leveling Sensor verzichten, dann wäre dieser Drucker in meinen Augen Perfekt und ich würde ihn sofort kaufen. Trotzdem finde ich den Hephestos 2 aufjedenfall einen gelungen Drucker den ich persönlich in eine engere Auswahl nehmen würde, wenn ich vor hätte mir einen Drucker zu kaufen. Der Drucker kommt hochwertig verpackt und die Anleitung macht auch einen sehr guten Eindruck. Als ich mir meinen Chniaböller Prusa i3 zusammengeschraubt habe bin ich fasst daran verzweifelt das die Anleitung so extrem schlecht ist.
Its sexy as hell but no heated bed and they managed to work in a wobbly frame prusa i2's were hated for. I miss the days when changes were made for print quality and ease of replication. It looks fantastic siting there not doing what it doesn't seem to do all that well. I'd trade the powder coat aluminum frame for painted stamped steel and heated bed any day
+Thomas Sanladerer thanks I understand. It was a bad comparison. I would love to see a review and maybe some promotion of the I3 Joseph is selling now. finally. He gave away freely his ideas and designs to makers which i benafit and am thankful for.
Have they explained why they are not looking at doing an aluminum bed with that sensor? Does it not work as reliably on aluminum as it does on steel? (to the point where they can't use it.) I would think that would "fix" the limitation that a steel/glass composite bed imposes on adding heat to the bed.
+rusty0101 Inductive sensors prefer to measure ferric metals, like iron or steel. The efficiency drops to around 30% for most inductive sensors if you try to detect aluminium. And you have that glass plate there as well that does not really help by increasing the distance between metal and sensor coil. If they are already going for a self-built unit, maybe they should have looked at something that can measure the glass surface directly (capacitive, photonic, or ultrasonic). I'm not quite shure why they decided to use the LDC1000 inductance to digital converter from TI, a Freescale controller and a microchip N75A/E serial temperature sensor on that board, but i guess it was cheaper for them to make something like that and not just buy an off the shelf part. They should have just browsed around at TI and check maybe the TCD7200 for ultasonics, or the FDC2214 for capacitive... Well, at least i hope they considered that, and found a good reason to go inductive and steel in the end....
god send that is, i googled for hours, jumped on support pages and even asked tech support, guess i just didnt ask the right question with them haha. thank you
they might not, but i asked a couple of questions so i think it got over looked as they were trying to explain why the english page for the hephestos 1 was gone.
Hello, what do you think are the chances of installing a klipper printer on this printer? Now I am faced with a problem with the auto level and the table heating sensor. I can’t get the Z axis to move. Maybe there is a ready-made configuration or you can tell me the models of table heating and auto-level sensors. Thank you.
they stop using unibody hot end on Hephestos. They now using a classic hot end which to me is a significant step down in the quality. So now its a overpriced 3D printer. And there is some sort of bug in the firmware so you can't print properly without editing the firmware.
Oddly enough, I'm getting the DDG extruder for my WitBox 1. I'm on my second unibody. The first one had become clogged so often that using the cleaning needle had become ineffective at cleaning it. The quality from it is not bad at all, I agree, it is very good. The large heatsink/heatbreak works well. The problem is serviceability. Once it has been clogged too often, servicing it is a bit intensive. I have a blow torch, I can replace PTFE tubes, although it is a pain. But with the new one, you can just buy a new tip and slip out the PTFE tube, like any other printer. Hard to beat that. Less downtime. I realize there may be practices that caused my unibody to wear out to fail. Like using non BQ filament, experimenting with temperatures, but most enthusiasts will do this. I plan on servicing my two unibody's that came with my Witbox and restoring them functionally, although I'll have to shelve them, and give the new one a shot.
greetings My name is brito, I am from Brazil and professor of programming and robotics. A short time I bought a printer Hephetos 2, to my surprise open the website of Bq and the information is what the company ended up. I need your help, I need the updated drives of Hephetos 2 because my machine is still dismantled. I know how the List of Bq Updates works because I have two updated Prusa i3 Hephetos. Your help is very important. I'm happy, I wish you health and thank you.
NO BQ for ever !!! I bought BQ Printer and after 3 Weeks and 4 Prints ...game over. The Extruder dosn´t work and the hardware engine choose Ascii Code after a while. The BQ Support is not good and not helpfull... They whant that i check the Volumes of the Microprocessors by my one. Now i pay 500 Euro and i can do nothing with it :-( 2 years garantie they say, but you donet get it. They onley say it to sell it . In my House no BQ nomore !!!
I've put Marlin on it and sandwiched a 230V AC silicone heated pad between the build plate and the carriage and hooked it up using a relay (you could use a solid state one and also enable the PID for it, but a relay will do fine). If anyone needs my modified Marlin you can find it here: github.com/mongo56/hephestos2marlin I've got the silicone mat from here: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/600W-220V-20X30cm-Silicone-Heater-Pad-3D-Printer-HeatBed-w-3M-PSA-Thermistor-/281452670243?hash=item4187e2ed23:g:9XkAAOSwnDZUJ-GZ Find a 12V triggered relay that can handle 3A 230V AC and you're set (I've had one laying arround). I quite like the printer now.
+Borja Herranz Sorry I didn't take any pictures, I've built it for a friend. Not much to see anyway, I've added some cork padding and metal spacers between the heated pad and the y carriage to get some clearance for the wires so it would sit flush. There's two bulges where the wires come out of the heated pad and for the thermistor. I'm using four simple office supply metal clips to hold everything together.
Prusa mk3 kicks this machines ass upwards, downwards and sideways. Does BQ send you Haribo? ...... I thought so...... Definitely, buy a Prusa instead of this, Haribo is delicious.
When this machine was released the MK2 didn't even come out yet. They were still selling the I3 MK1 (since the MK0 is the 3mm one). which had an E3D V6 PTFE lined hotend, a MK1 heater PCB with glass on top and a rather sh*tty build experience.
![Gucci Mane & Sexyy Red - You Don't Love Me [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/j7IBqyFKT4c/mqdefault.jpg)
I have 3 BQ machines and they are brilliant. Simply put they work every time. Also the support is excellent and they are always willing to give advice and help. Great Company
I think BQ's marketing will love that you featured the zowi. Everyone watching this vid will want one!
Please remember PEI sheets. It is awesome for ABS and PLA. I think that you promoting the awareness of PEI sheets would really be good for the community.
Very nice review, you kept your integrity throughout :)
Really liked the CNC'd extruder ... but disappointed at the lack of (heated) bed.
Not rigid enough Z structure makes this quite a no-no ...
And the beep. Oh dear god. The beep. NOPE. NOPE
I have one and I really love it... when it works.
I bought my Hephestos 2 in mid January, and after a week it just started freazing in mid printing. And after days trying to find out what was wrong, the ratio of successful to freazing printings went from 50/50 in the first day it started having problems to 1/99 in about 4 days. I contacted BQ and they were terrific in sending me another machine.
The problem was that the new machine had also problems, this time it had serious that QC is to be blamed, where the wholes in the rails were supposed to be fixed, well, they were just too large for the screws, so then again had to contact bq, and they sent me another horizontal piece, but only after about 2 days because they were "out of stock". In the end I lost an entire week waiting for that piece to arrive so I could build the machine. So much for 2 hours building it.
Right now I have my second machine working for about two weeks, and fortunatelly this one doesn't freeze like in the first machine, but is having serious problems with the offset, like having to recalibrate it after every two printings. If I don't calibrate it two or 3 times in a row (because it can offset max 5mm and it still doesn't even get closer to the table), then it'll start printing about 2 or 3 cm above the table, and of course have to abort the printing.
Of course Hard Reset is necessary everyday.
But after all that nuisance prior to printing if the PLA adheres to the table and doesn't warp, and the fan doesn't start (dropping the nozzle temp to drop about 25ºC making the filament solid inside the nozzle), well, if all goes ok, then the printed object is AWESOME, and that's why I'm still hoping that this machine has future.
This is my first printer, and the experience has been bitter-sweet. I hope that soon they'll have an upgrade with heated bed, because it's a shame that this machine only works with Laca for the best adhesion of the filament, and still without garantee of not warping.
For me, I'll just pray this machine wont freeze up in the next weeks like the first.
My advise to new buyers is to buy it, but only after a few more months, so bq can improve this printer with new upgrades and firmware.
Crazy how Prusa was such a small percentage of I3 sales back in the days... This was before the MK2, right? Its kinda easy looking back now, buying a Prusa MK1 would be the better option since just a few months later the MK2 came out that tore this printer to shreds, but still... This is why I love that Tom keeps these time capsule reviews up on his channel....
Nice review! As i remember, you was fired from BQ after this video?
You should do a video or 2 that shows some common problems prints can have, explain what causes them, and how to go about fixing them. Another video could be about how to tune settings for specific types of prints, bridging, small detail, ect.
Just an idea. Love the videos!
Thanks for doing such an awesome job on guides, reviews and everything else you do. When I saw how many subscribers you have, I thought it had to be a mistake as you've helped me with so much and I consider you an authority on all things 3D.
Keep on and thanks again for all you do. I recommend your channel to all my maker friends.
Your videos are really top notch! You helped me in choosing the right 3d printer.
I like the videography style, it has improved alot. Keep up the good work and all the best for your work and channel
Another great review.Thankyou.
When will you be doing the 2nd part of the 3d Bigbox review?
The Price is insane. I recently built a prusa i3 for less than 150Euro ! And I didn't push myself too much in sourcing the cheapest components
Bro could you help me aswell to build prusa i3... I wanna make for myseld but the big problem I'm facing at the moment, from where i should buy the prusa parts especially extruder... Could you give me the link or any website, so i could buy from there
I would be really thankful to you bro, cheers mate
Nice video, it's a really good overview of the Hephestos.
Well done!:-)
Really good review! Well done!
I like the improvements it's made and it's good to see printers becoming more user friendly, but i dont think they justify such a high price.
I have the first Bq Hephestos. Absoloute nightmare to setup and some of the parts are not the best printed and its quite messy. But let me tell you that when its setup and working. These things are completely bullet proof. They just keep working and working. The amount of knocks and abuse mine has taken it should have stopped working a long time ago but it just keeps going and it printed 100s and 100s of hours with it for over a year now.
The HeatCore Unibody Extruder is the best one ive ever had and incredibly accurate. Their tech support however is not a god response time at all.
Hi Tom. I was wondering if you prefer a cartesian or delta printer? Also if you were to build your own 'dream' DIY printer what components would you use? Which main board, printer style, 1 or 2 (or more) hotends, hotend type, motors, motor drivers, screen and software?
Reaction to the sound it's steppers make = "OH GOD! >.< "
I wish I had bought a kit like this to begin with. The build time of my Prusa is currently 425 days and counting. It's just such a mess. Crappy printed parts, no clear manual. Overall I think the Prusa is a sh*tty design to start with. In my opinion it's an engineering nightmare, but starting with a proper kit and with TLC it can be a made into a nice printer.
You guys certainly made a good effort to eliminate many sources of frustration, and it seems to be a really nice product you are offering.
To all the people considering to buy a 3d printer kit I'd like to say this. Don't buy a random cheap kit. Read some build reviews!!! It's really worth spending more "money units" on a well designed and well documented kit like for example this Hephestos 2!!!
And Thomas. Thanks for all your video's, they've helped me a lot!!!
Greetings from the Netherlands! ;)
1000E for this printer? is that a joke? Nice review as always keep up the good work.
Tom
Is doing such a great work and I love the videos. Who in the world left him 19 dislikes?! 🤦🏻♂️😄😄😄
I have one and I toyed with the idea of building a heated bed, but I'm going in the direction of a heated chamber with a standalone temperature controller.
What do you think is better option before I set my mind in one?
Good review. What is the Raspberry Pi doing at 7:52 or is it just demonstrating the possibility of a expansion set?
+Thomas Sanladerer Thanks for the answer. Much appreciated.
Tom, you really need to look at the German RepRap Neo/x150, if you think sticker shock is in order for this guy. Yeah, not much in the way of "wow" factor, but I wouldn't discard it myself.
I feel like having the controller on the gantry is a bad idea. Is the button soft enough so it doesn't wobble the gantry?
Good Review! Liked.
Did you use 3mm filament in the scene where you opened the extruder ? Because the little cog doesn't rotate at mine when I am pushing it in... Looking forward to an answer, don't know what to do anymore !
+Thomas Sanladerer Thanks for the quick answer. I just contacted them, when can I expect a reply ? By the way, this isn't the only problem I have... After a few lines of printing there just doesn't come any filament out of the nozzle. You incidentaly know how to solve that problem ?
Thank you so much !
Thomas what did you study? I am currently studying electrical engineering, but im contemplating if I should change to something else. I am really interested in 3d printers, rasberry pi's and ect
Thank you, I appreciate that you actually read my comment.
Lol that blue thing is hillarious :D
what is a good better start platform ? Prusia i3 with large heated bed upgrade or Ephestos 2 if the end goal is all metal hot end 3.0mm for Nylon ?
Does the control board support a heated bed, so you can install one yourself?
If i had to choose: BQ Hephestos 2 or Prusa MK2 ??
which one is more precise ? more flawless ?
What is this dancing thing at the outro? Is the model available?
Hi Tom love your videos learn a lot.. got my hephestos 2 two weeks before you reviewed it, then i got myself a Raspberry pi and did the following to get it up and running... but i don't know how to set up the profile for the hephestos 2..
found a plugin for my M3D micro so i can use it with octoprint... but not with my hephestos 2, can you please do a video on that part of the install..since you haven't touched the all octoprint UI how to.
needs improvement, especially at that price point. hopefully bq will address the issues and release a 2.1 version.
1) heated bed, this is non negotiable. absolutely required.
2) stepper whine. wtf, seriously.
3) i am not convinced by their explanation why they skipped using off the shelf proximity sensor.
Tom, I know you are busy but i am having a delma, i dont know if i should upgrade to a 32 bit board or just stick with the 8bit that really just work. I was looking at teh MKS Gen 1.3 for 8 bit and a smoothie board for the 32, but i want to run dual z motors and i would need the smoothieboard 5X which is about 169.00 us and the MKS is about 40-50 us. the other option is a MKS SBASE 32bit wich i can get for 50-80 us dollars but i am kinda up in the air about this. Can you give me some guidance for this?
+Thomas Sanladerer
Thank you for the reply. it does seem like 32bit isn't really ready yet, i'll stick with that for now. any recommendation? or brands to stick with?
Nice Review....I already Subbed !!! :)
Seems a bit of a helfty price with no heated bed and a frame that wobbly, can't cost that much to include a heated bed and figure out some way to brace the frame, both are things that would improve day to day use a lot, along with PEI on the bed for ABS.
About adhesion compounds... Am I the only one using ACRYLIC MEDIUM to coat the built surface? This is cheap you can find it in any art store and PLA sticks amazingly well to it! Plus it doesn't need recoating for many, manyyyy... prints. :D
What is that blue thing? I want one!
+Thomas Sanladerer it's awesome! Thanks for letting me know :)
isn't that like the Bob form thingiverse?
www.thingiverse.com/thing:43708
What was the i3 he mentions that comes with the e3d all metal hot end and heated bed?
Hi,
Do you know when we are having that extruder sold as a separate part?
Ich verstehe einfach nicht warum es momentan keinen wirklich guten oder "perfekten" Prusa i3 ähnlichen Drucker gibt.
Der Hephestos 2 hat einige interessante Ansätze, doch setzt diese eher schlechter um.
Ich bin echt erstaunt das der Drucker Linearführungen benutzt welche in der Theorie höhere Genauigkeit bieten, hingegen macht das dünne Blech diesen Vorteil komplett weg.
Was bringen mir Qualitativ hochwertige Komponenten wenn diese am Ende von einem extrem Wackligen Rahmen kaputt gemacht werden?
Würde man anstelle eines Blechrahmens, ein Rahmen aus Aluminium Profil nehmen, sowie ein Beheiztes Bett und außerdem auf proprietäre Komponenten wie den Leveling Sensor verzichten, dann wäre dieser Drucker in meinen Augen Perfekt und ich würde ihn sofort kaufen.
Trotzdem finde ich den Hephestos 2 aufjedenfall einen gelungen Drucker den ich persönlich in eine engere Auswahl nehmen würde, wenn ich vor hätte mir einen Drucker zu kaufen. Der Drucker kommt hochwertig verpackt und die Anleitung macht auch einen sehr guten Eindruck.
Als ich mir meinen Chniaböller Prusa i3 zusammengeschraubt habe bin ich fasst daran verzweifelt das die Anleitung so extrem schlecht ist.
Its sexy as hell but no heated bed and they managed to work in a wobbly frame prusa i2's were hated for. I miss the days when changes were made for print quality and ease of replication. It looks fantastic siting there not doing what it doesn't seem to do all that well. I'd trade the powder coat aluminum frame for painted stamped steel and heated bed any day
+Thomas Sanladerer thanks I understand. It was a bad comparison.
I would love to see a review and maybe some promotion of the I3 Joseph is selling now. finally.
He gave away freely his ideas and designs to makers which i benafit and am thankful for.
Great review, but without a heated bed... no dice! :P
Have they explained why they are not looking at doing an aluminum bed with that sensor? Does it not work as reliably on aluminum as it does on steel? (to the point where they can't use it.) I would think that would "fix" the limitation that a steel/glass composite bed imposes on adding heat to the bed.
+rusty0101 Inductive sensors prefer to measure ferric metals, like iron or steel. The efficiency drops to around 30% for most inductive sensors if you try to detect aluminium. And you have that glass plate there as well that does not really help by increasing the distance between metal and sensor coil. If they are already going for a self-built unit, maybe they should have looked at something that can measure the glass surface directly (capacitive, photonic, or ultrasonic). I'm not quite shure why they decided to use the LDC1000 inductance to digital converter from TI, a Freescale controller and a microchip N75A/E serial temperature sensor on that board, but i guess it was cheaper for them to make something like that and not just buy an off the shelf part. They should have just browsed around at TI and check maybe the TCD7200 for ultasonics, or the FDC2214 for capacitive... Well, at least i hope they considered that, and found a good reason to go inductive and steel in the end....
Ah, but you're assuming that they need the glass, which I was not. My question was more based on the idea of not having the glass there at all.
I like the extruder
why dont bq release the code they put out as a hex file?
god send that is, i googled for hours, jumped on support pages and even asked tech support, guess i just didnt ask the right question with them haha. thank you
they might not, but i asked a couple of questions so i think it got over looked as they were trying to explain why the english page for the hephestos 1 was gone.
Hello, what do you think are the chances of installing a klipper printer on this printer? Now I am faced with a problem with the auto level and the table heating sensor. I can’t get the Z axis to move. Maybe there is a ready-made configuration or you can tell me the models of table heating and auto-level sensors. Thank you.
WHERE CAN I BUY THAT BLUE THING!?!?!?
www.bq.com/uk/zowi
The omission of a heated bed will push me away from this printer. Otherwise, it looks like a great machine.
It was this video from hephestos 2.
anyone knows if they plan to sell the inductive sensor alone? it looks quite sexy but not enough to etch pcbs for it :D
Anyone else got this recommended ?
they stop using unibody hot end on Hephestos. They now using a classic hot end which to me is a significant step down in the quality. So now its a overpriced 3D printer. And there is some sort of bug in the firmware so you can't print properly without editing the firmware.
i agree. The HeatCore Unibody Extruder is the most accurate and reliable extruder ive ever used. Mines still going super strong.
Oddly enough, I'm getting the DDG extruder for my WitBox 1. I'm on my second unibody. The first one had become clogged so often that using the cleaning needle had become ineffective at cleaning it. The quality from it is not bad at all, I agree, it is very good. The large heatsink/heatbreak works well. The problem is serviceability. Once it has been clogged too often, servicing it is a bit intensive. I have a blow torch, I can replace PTFE tubes, although it is a pain. But with the new one, you can just buy a new tip and slip out the PTFE tube, like any other printer. Hard to beat that. Less downtime. I realize there may be practices that caused my unibody to wear out to fail. Like using non BQ filament, experimenting with temperatures, but most enthusiasts will do this. I plan on servicing my two unibody's that came with my Witbox and restoring them functionally, although I'll have to shelve them, and give the new one a shot.
greetings
My name is brito, I am from Brazil and professor of programming and robotics.
A short time I bought a printer Hephetos 2, to my surprise open the website of Bq and the information is what the company ended up.
I need your help, I need the updated drives of Hephetos 2 because my machine is still dismantled.
I know how the List of Bq Updates works because I have two updated Prusa i3 Hephetos.
Your help is very important.
I'm happy, I wish you health and thank you.
Lack of a heated bed nullified everything about this really good printer (at least for me it did).
NO BQ for ever !!!
I bought BQ Printer and after 3 Weeks and 4 Prints ...game over.
The Extruder dosn´t work and the hardware engine choose Ascii Code after a while.
The BQ Support is not good and not helpfull...
They whant that i check the Volumes of the Microprocessors by my one.
Now i pay 500 Euro and i can do nothing with it :-(
2 years garantie they say, but you donet get it.
They onley say it to sell it .
In my House no BQ nomore !!!
nive review !
Don't leave this one in the Sun
When i auto home my prusa i3 x access just try to puss through the metal side
I've put Marlin on it and sandwiched a 230V AC silicone heated pad between the build plate and the carriage and hooked it up using a relay (you could use a solid state one and also enable the PID for it, but a relay will do fine).
If anyone needs my modified Marlin you can find it here:
github.com/mongo56/hephestos2marlin
I've got the silicone mat from here:
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/600W-220V-20X30cm-Silicone-Heater-Pad-3D-Printer-HeatBed-w-3M-PSA-Thermistor-/281452670243?hash=item4187e2ed23:g:9XkAAOSwnDZUJ-GZ
Find a 12V triggered relay that can handle 3A 230V AC and you're set (I've had one laying arround).
I quite like the printer now.
+Blaz Majcen Could you add some pictures of your system?
+Borja Herranz Sorry I didn't take any pictures, I've built it for a friend.
Not much to see anyway, I've added some cork padding and metal spacers between the heated pad and the y carriage to get some clearance for the wires so it would sit flush. There's two bulges where the wires come out of the heated pad and for the thermistor.
I'm using four simple office supply metal clips to hold everything together.
Damn that stepper whine is PAINFULL ! $%?"$*&?"&$%%&"/%?*%
Prusa mk3 kicks this machines ass upwards, downwards and sideways. Does BQ send you Haribo? ...... I thought so...... Definitely, buy a Prusa instead of this, Haribo is delicious.
When this machine was released the MK2 didn't even come out yet. They were still selling the I3 MK1 (since the MK0 is the 3mm one). which had an E3D V6 PTFE lined hotend, a MK1 heater PCB with glass on top and a rather sh*tty build experience.
Tevo tarantula or pursa mk2
Rip he got fired after this video
first?
+Tommie ? no you are second. I bet you can't make it to #3