Bear with me a point is coming I swear... The difference between climb and conventional with a quarter inch bit can be drastic. This is further compounded the thinner (width wise not height) your material is. This also changes whether you're cutting in the inside of something like a pocket or the outside of something like a profile pass. This difference is lessened with a half inch bit but not non existent. Basically, deflection in your bit and machine can be significant. The harder and faster you run it the more it deflects. So... In the eye cutout pass, a climb cut would be counter clockwise. This means your pocket is going to be smaller than a conventional or clockwise pass. This is because the cutting force is pulling the bit into the material you are removing thus deflecting the bit towards the inside of the material. A good way to think about this is, as the flute of the router bit grabs it is working way harder on the inside of the pocket so the bit and machine are deflecting towards the direction where the bulk of the material is being removed. As the flute comes around towards the outside of the cut the bit and machine are slightly skewed towards the inside of the pocket. On a machine like yours I would imagine that couple be as much as a couple hundredths or a few thou. I'm sitting at my desk and I am 99% sure I didn't have that reversed in my mind. But wither way, machines, especially smaller cncs deflect a lot more than people think. This is one of the challenges we face when manufacturing things like our crosscut sled kits, router table and box joint jig. Dialing in all the tolerances and pockets are way harder than you think. For the recent sled kits we released I thought, oh this will be so easy. I already spent a week dialing in the size of the runner for the box joint jig so I'll just put that exact same size and tool path into the new file and make it longer. NOPE! 72 runners later I finally dialed it in and that's on an $80k Laguna Fanuc cnc so I can only imagine that on the Onefinity you're going to get pretty substantial differences between cuts. HERE's my point, use finishing passes to your advantage. All this deflection is greatly reduced when you remove all the stresses from the bit. Leave about .004 for your last pass and you'll see much more consistent (but still slightly different) results. Cheers, Jonathan Katz-Moses
Yeeessss 🙌🏼🙌🏼 thank you for the input! It makes sooo much sense. Thanks for taking the time to knowledge bomb, I appreciate the wisdom 🙏🏼 I assumed that a what was going on but wasn’t entirely sure.
I actually started with the cat design today. Changed the router bit and just went for it. Surprisingly it fit well. There was some deflection because the topside was a good fit but there was a "larger" gap on the bottom side (after pressing together).
@@TwoMooseDesign I definitely plan on it!!! Thanks again. Also I purchased the Airweights like you have. Do you set the z zero of the machine bed and then do you cut 0.01 less than the board thickness? What do your numbers and process look like. I know every machine is different, but just looking for a place to start. Thanks. I definitely don’t want to mess up the Airweight. Thanks Chris
In this video I zeroed from the top of the material and left .025 left and gave the pieces a quick sander pass. So if the pieces is .75 thick I would cut down .725 instead.
Great video and a great idea. I will have to try that toolpath myself soon. Your comment about Climb over conventional was interesting. I made some side tables recently and used half lap dovetail joints for the base and found Climb cuts work better. I got a comnvetional cut to fit one time then the next attempt with the exact same setting did not go together the same way. I don't no why either but I seemed to get a more consistant fit with a climb cut so I took the hint and go with climb all the time for these joints now.
How are you liking the air weights? Saw the initial video. Can you do a follow up after you've used it for some time. Seriously thinking about getting one.
I need to get the mdf membrane deal first and I most likely will. I’m definitely getting more comfortable with it. I used it for all of this stuff except the test cuts.
I do not, I bought it locally and modified it pretty good with a welder. It’s a 20 ton shop press, I would avoid the super cheap ones like at harbor freight or northern tool
Hey there - new to your channel, I'm interested in starting in the CNC hobby. Can you provide details for the setup that you have including software and any additional parts that are needed?
Male inlay toolpath generates outside the line female generates inside the line. Locking two pieces together is male to male. Inlaying into something is male to female
What if your wood doesn't identify as male or female? The one piece you called male may identify as a non-organic HDPE flowerpot. You were oppressing it while you pressed it with that press 😅
![Hunxho - Ball Forever [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nki9ZTF9Uls/mqdefault.jpg)
Files are available on our website and patreon. Thanks for watching! twomoosedesign.com/collections/digital-downloads
Bear with me a point is coming I swear... The difference between climb and conventional with a quarter inch bit can be drastic. This is further compounded the thinner (width wise not height) your material is. This also changes whether you're cutting in the inside of something like a pocket or the outside of something like a profile pass. This difference is lessened with a half inch bit but not non existent. Basically, deflection in your bit and machine can be significant. The harder and faster you run it the more it deflects. So... In the eye cutout pass, a climb cut would be counter clockwise. This means your pocket is going to be smaller than a conventional or clockwise pass. This is because the cutting force is pulling the bit into the material you are removing thus deflecting the bit towards the inside of the material. A good way to think about this is, as the flute of the router bit grabs it is working way harder on the inside of the pocket so the bit and machine are deflecting towards the direction where the bulk of the material is being removed. As the flute comes around towards the outside of the cut the bit and machine are slightly skewed towards the inside of the pocket. On a machine like yours I would imagine that couple be as much as a couple hundredths or a few thou. I'm sitting at my desk and I am 99% sure I didn't have that reversed in my mind. But wither way, machines, especially smaller cncs deflect a lot more than people think. This is one of the challenges we face when manufacturing things like our crosscut sled kits, router table and box joint jig. Dialing in all the tolerances and pockets are way harder than you think. For the recent sled kits we released I thought, oh this will be so easy. I already spent a week dialing in the size of the runner for the box joint jig so I'll just put that exact same size and tool path into the new file and make it longer. NOPE! 72 runners later I finally dialed it in and that's on an $80k Laguna Fanuc cnc so I can only imagine that on the Onefinity you're going to get pretty substantial differences between cuts. HERE's my point, use finishing passes to your advantage. All this deflection is greatly reduced when you remove all the stresses from the bit. Leave about .004 for your last pass and you'll see much more consistent (but still slightly different) results. Cheers, Jonathan Katz-Moses
Yeeessss 🙌🏼🙌🏼 thank you for the input! It makes sooo much sense. Thanks for taking the time to knowledge bomb, I appreciate the wisdom 🙏🏼 I assumed that a what was going on but wasn’t entirely sure.
Those look great and tons of great information. Nice job!
Thank you!
Simple, fun designs that would sell....made out of scraps. All while learning about tolerances. Great lesson and skill builder. Thanks for the post. 😊
Thanks for watching! I appreciate it, yesssss scrap projects are my favorite! haha
I have to admit you do some real amazing work, my love watching your videos. Have a blessed day.
Thank you, I appreciate it. You as well
I like it! Can’t wait to try that out on my CNC
Dooooo it
Those are outstanding!
Thanks! They were pretty fun to figure out!
Those are awesome
They were fun to make!
I actually started with the cat design today. Changed the router bit and just went for it. Surprisingly it fit well. There was some deflection because the topside was a good fit but there was a "larger" gap on the bottom side (after pressing together).
I’m excited you made this because I have been wanting to try it and I woulda probably just went for it and winged it. 😂
Its not as hard as I thought it would be! Once you get the right fit the options are endless!
I’ve been getting into CNC cuts for furniture. I use this technique for dovetails and such in my designs.
Do you have a vertical clamp set up? I really want to try that
Not yet, I’d like to set one up soon!
Well hurry up so you can tell me how to do it 😆
@@TwoMooseDesign What do you mean by a vertical clamp setup? Great designs by the way!
Some people have a hole in their waste board so they can cut into the ends of longer boards. I think jay bates has a video on that set up
So smart to make the pocket slightly larger!
Big brain moves over here 😆
That’s pretty cool! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching, I appreciate it!
Ok I watched the video several times….On the turkey leg What type of inlay connection did you use? Thank you
very cool, like puzzle pieces!
I have a puzzle piece tray I tried a while back that didn’t work out! I need to come back to it now that I can fit things together haha
Great video thanks
Thanks for watching!
Fantastic!!!!
Give it a try! Thanks for watching
@@TwoMooseDesign I definitely plan on it!!!
Thanks again.
Also I purchased the Airweights like you have. Do you set the z zero of the machine bed and then do you cut 0.01 less than the board thickness? What do your numbers and process look like. I know every machine is different, but just looking for a place to start.
Thanks. I definitely don’t want to mess up the Airweight.
Thanks
Chris
In this video I zeroed from the top of the material and left .025 left and gave the pieces a quick sander pass. So if the pieces is .75 thick I would cut down .725 instead.
@@TwoMooseDesign Thank you do very much! I have a drum sander, so that is definitely the way I’m going to approach this! Thanks again!!
Great video and a great idea. I will have to try that toolpath myself soon.
Your comment about Climb over conventional was interesting. I made some side tables recently and used half lap dovetail joints for the base and found Climb cuts work better. I got a comnvetional cut to fit one time then the next attempt with the exact same setting did not go together the same way. I don't no why either but I seemed to get a more consistant fit with a climb cut so I took the hint and go with climb all the time for these joints now.
Ohh interesting 🤔 yeah I’m not sure either haha I just know when you go the opposite direction on the router table it’s not as fun 😆
Thanks for watching
Cool!
Thanks for taking the time to watch!
How are you liking the air weights? Saw the initial video. Can you do a follow up after you've used it for some time. Seriously thinking about getting one.
I need to get the mdf membrane deal first and I most likely will. I’m definitely getting more comfortable with it. I used it for all of this stuff except the test cuts.
Very cool. Thanks. Do you have info or a video on your hydraulic press?
I do not, I bought it locally and modified it pretty good with a welder. It’s a 20 ton shop press, I would avoid the super cheap ones like at harbor freight or northern tool
Thanks
Can you show us how you designed the donut?
I drew the design myself. You can do this in your software. I personally draw in Adobe illustrator which is a graphic design program.
Hey there - new to your channel, I'm interested in starting in the CNC hobby. Can you provide details for the setup that you have including software and any additional parts that are needed?
Hey! I use a onefinity, I have multiple videos on my set up. I use vectric for software. Thanks for stopping bye!
So what is your cnc machine? What other ones would you suggest?
We use onefinity foreman and a journeyman. In my opinion it’s the best hobbyist level 𝙲𝙽𝙲 under $10,000
Nice Video , thank you.. question ! :) is there a cnc machine that has a hobby affordable price ... that can make something like this ?
Thanks! Any decent 𝙲𝙽𝙲 will be a few thousand dollars.
@@TwoMooseDesign thank you for your reply
Great video! What kind of plate do you have on your Hydraulic press?
I welded it myself
So you ended up doing a regular profile path NOT the inlay path correct? Just cutting outside the line on the male and inside the line on the female?
No I used the inlay toolpaths.
Male inlay toolpath generates outside the line female generates inside the line. Locking two pieces together is male to male. Inlaying into something is male to female
20T Press? It's the Punsisher's cutting board. It needed to be punished.
😆😆😆 no glue or anything it got punished!
So Im confused...|
Male to Male you don't need a tolerance? and female to female you do? Whats the tolerance 0.01 ?
Best, Rick
No you use the same tolerance for both. I used .009 but I would make tests in your own to ensure they fit.
@@TwoMooseDesign
Oh Thank you so much
What if your wood doesn't identify as male or female? The one piece you called male may identify as a non-organic HDPE flowerpot. You were oppressing it while you pressed it with that press 😅
Intersex trees.