Most people are big half assers, not the Tile Coach. He’s never been accused of letting the grass grow under his feet. Did more work in an unnecessary instructional vid than some contractors do on a paid gig. A true skilled craftsman.
One of the problems of long videos is that some guys watch small portions of the video, then skip to the end and miss many of the steps and context of the video. Hopefully I can clear up a few things: 1.) In no way did I ever claim this product "failed". It performed quite well over the Hardibacker. 2.) I clearly explained 3 or 4 times that Denshield is not an approved substrate, yet I personally wanted to see the results compared to Hardibacker. Denshield (and other glass mat gypsum tile backerboard) is a very popular substrate for tile. 3.) The data sheet says to use 254 platinum as a slurry for a "bonded mortar bed", which is referring to a floor installation. Please refer to the "wall render" section of the data sheet, where it clearly states no slurry is needed. I appreciate all of your comments, but please watch the whole video before you post comments that may not be correct. Questions are always better than assumptions, and if I have failed to clearly communicate something, please ask and I will try to answer.
TileCoach but it’s better put before the product a wire fence or wire chicken? it’s a question I don’t like to judge I know it’s a new product and you have to work with to take all the advantage of the product I like your coaching videos 💪
After watching many well executed projects by the tile coach I tore into my own messed up shower. It came out well and I really appreciate all of the excellent Craftsmanship
I love your videos...just had an old timer in the trade for 40 years help me do my shower and float its lots of work...showed me how to plumb sodder copper tile waterproof and all the different styles...since I've remodeled 18 showers and have a waiting list on accepted quotes...love it
I’m a professional tile setter I being doing this for 20 years and I found your videos really helpful . I don’t know why companies don’t pay a little bit more money so installers can do a better job and be proud of the job they do . I blessed to work for a good company and A great boss
i have a spiral shower concept coming up so im exploring new products to use. i feel like its neccessary to float the walls. but i just dont wanna have to wait days for it to dry good. i live in mississippi and my older brother is from chino cali and hes always floating walls. the way grounds shift here im suprised its not mandatory in areas here. I love wayching tile coach because he teaches with all info in more than one way as all my mentors have. i originally fabricated stone for years before i ever touched a tile. i feel it made me have a sharp eye and hand control so i caught on fast but now thank God we hae ppl as The Tile Coach teaching us all new techniques along with seeing new products and some great tips!
I appreciate the instructional video, I am a fellow tile contractor also here in Northern California. I came from SoCal, the land of the floats, so I have a decade of experience with fat mud. I got really excited with this product, too bad it doesn't bond well at all to a waterproof surface. I use alot of GoBoard and was hoping to use this for some tricky areas. I agree that it still has some applications, with this you can mud rather then replace any project where cement board is out of plum. It also seems much better for backsplashes, fireplace prep. It is definitly an improvement over using LFT mortar.
Hmm, i think maybe you should have wiped it down with a damp rag or sponge before hand. Those boards were probably a little too dusty. I say that only because of my experience with doing repairs where i've seen guys tile over paint or dusty areas, it never sticks very well. So i think that could be the issue here. Also, i just want to say, i totally agree and understand your level of thinking and just "Doing it". You can read instructions and research all you want, but you'll never understand how something truly works until you use it/do it. It's how you learn.
Please do another video this time using Mapei planitop 330 fast fiber reinforced wall render. I think you and your audience will be surprised by the results. Another great video Isaac!
Like your worker said.. Old ways are sometimes the good ways.... I like to keep it traditional as much as possible when I do work in my home or rentals... Just know it will last long...
Wouldn't consider this a fail, looks like a great product. Thinking a quick thinset scratchcoat or lathe would be the way to go. Also totally agree with ya Coach about us doing things on the fly in the field. Keep the videos coming 👍🏻
I think you'd be golden wetting any cement based substrate as far as getting this to stick, I always had great luck wetting surfaces for stucco adhesion.. seems fairly similar.. on block I wet it and applied directly and on wood I used tar paper and chicken wire. Scratch coat / green coat ..finish texture.. either sand or skip trowel
No lath.....no go.....and nothing beats a fresh hot mop in the morning too. I enjoy how your always up for trying the new things out in the market. Hopefully these trials dont cost you too much in the future
I have a unique situation. I managed to get the Durock installed and Redgarded before realizing just how bad out of plumb the wall was. Two 135 degree angled walls adds to the difficulty. Is there any way to add mud and screed at this point? If so do I need to Redgard it again? Thanks and keep up the true craftsmanship!!
This was a fun video. Better than my HGTV shows. I might try floating for the first time using this mud. I'm gonna practice in my garage first lol I'm going to add thinset first to help it bond to the wallboard better.
On any cementicious substrate hydrate with water for better mechanical bond Watch what stucco guys do to bond mortar to cinderblock walls, etc Bonding adhesive on foam board possibly Old school way was to apply a cement slurry first and have first coat wet... Gotta use water to bond 2 cementicious products together Not a fan of foam boards, plus their expensive
Personally with Uk rendering methods there is few render type materials that would stick to a flat smooth surface without spatterdashing, keying with with a scutch hammer or using a bonding agent. ‘Bonding’ is one of the few products that would stick to something flat and smooth like this, being a gypsum plaster I’d avoid using it in wet areas. Have you considers spatterdashing with a strong sbr sand and cement mix ? EML is an excellent product it must be said.
Please reply: Should I use this on a Kerdi wall, or is there something else I should use? I don't want to use the wire on the walls since they are Kerdi membrane covered. Thanks for all the great videos, o7
Great test demonstration Isaac - it's detailed content like this that sets you head and shoulders above the rest. Your daughter has talent - shoots some good side angles and closeups. A better camera (be nice to see 4K).and lighting would also be a nice step up in video content - especially in dimly-lit bathrooms I don't think I'd trust any mortar on a vertical surface to adhere without some sort of mechanical bond, especially in quake-prone areas or areas with expansive soils. I suspect Durock would see far-better results, but still not something I'd trust long term absent empirical test results.
I'm still floating all my showers without a helper, so I got excited when I heard about a lightweight mud without the need for lath. I like the concept, but that price tag, ouch! If it was 10-15 per bag I'd use it, at least for upstairs showers. My last 3 showers were upstairs, but my next 4 are in single-story homes. Great video. Why so many ads in this one?
Hey Corey, it is great mud but yes I think it has priced itself out of the market here in California where we have so many good mud options. We need to get you a helper, I'm sure someone on here would be willing to help you out to learn some skillz. Not sure about the ads, I don't place them Google does. In an hour long video there's going to be a lot. But probably a lot less than a network TV show!
I would like to see it on the rough side of Durock to just plumb it up (or render as you say). And wet It first. It think that would be totally bombproof.
Question…. I used hd custom float without lath on a small section about 8” wide from curb up to plumb about 1/2” Do you think I’ll have problems after tiling and setting frameless glass door ? Thanks so much for anyone’s advice Dave,
Not sure if it worked even with Haribacker except where it bonded better in that tiny area near the top. Maybe first wetting the Hardibacker and using a scratch coat would improve the results ... but most of the Laticrete 3701 looked like it wasn't gonna hold up to house movement for years an years. Not like with wire backing. Peace
Quick question? Couldn’t you use a V notch trowel or a worn quarter notch trowel with a latex modified thinset as the scratch verse lathe and get a mechanical bond that way? I would like to see you do that method to see how well it bonds then !
Is there anything, other than time, that would prevent building out a large plumb difference using two applications allowing the first to dry with channels in it to hold the next layer?
You can do multiple scratch coats for sure. In my town the old timers used to double scratch all the rich people's houses. It's a bitch to rip out, and weighs a literal ton, but it works.
I have about a 3/8" to 1/2" lowspot with around a 3ft radius on my durock shower wall. Would this product be appropriate here or could I just use a modified thinset to fill this in? I'm planning on using laticrete products just wondering if there is something better for this application?
Has worked for years doesn't always mean better, take for example soldering copper pipes and the propress system. Propress is more expensive but data provided details their failure rate being lower than soldering due to soldering having a higher propriety for user error
And before that people built out of sticks and clay and lived in caves. Always stay open minded to new products when they can save money, make work easier, safer and may have superior properties. Either that or stay in your cave with your tin foil hat ;)
A nightmare tile install. Different width of cuts for every single row of tile. High risk of tiles leaning to one side or the other. If all of your walls are plum and level with the ceiling then you can batch cut all your tile cuts and do the install much more quickly.
it would be a lot easier to sister or shim the wall studs to make it plumb since the wall is already open and then install the backer board - always works for me..
Agree! I floated for many years if you prep your walls/studs correct your cementboard will be great amd waterproof the board its the way to go way easier on the body!
We have been floating showers for 100 years around here, I'm not re-inventing anything. But yes, trying to plumb up and flatten a wall with shims is another good option.
Does anyone ever grab a mud hawk and not spin it in their hands a few times? its like grabbing a drill and not testing the trigger 4 or 5 times. Just has to be done.
Well, I just watched the whole thing. I appreciate them making fun of Schluter's All set. That stuff was garbage when it first came out. I have heard rumor that they updated it and its better.
Surely you wouldn't use this without lath. I'd be afraid of the mud and tile cracking over the joints in the cement board. It costs too much to replace a shower, it's not worth the risk. I'd rather be safe and install lath. And, for 25 bucks a bag, I'll lift the heavier mud. Nice video though.
Honestly I learned a crap load about this process from watching 2 thirds of this video... Seeing the lines after you *skreeted*... Then watching it sag on the left...
Most people are big half assers, not the Tile Coach. He’s never been accused of letting the grass grow under his feet. Did more work in an unnecessary instructional vid than some contractors do on a paid gig. A true skilled craftsman.
One of the problems of long videos is that some guys watch small portions of the video, then skip to the end and miss many of the steps and context of the video. Hopefully I can clear up a few things:
1.) In no way did I ever claim this product "failed". It performed quite well over the Hardibacker. 2.) I clearly explained 3 or 4 times that Denshield is not an approved substrate, yet I personally wanted to see the results compared to Hardibacker. Denshield (and other glass mat gypsum tile backerboard) is a very popular substrate for tile. 3.) The data sheet says to use 254 platinum as a slurry for a "bonded mortar bed", which is referring to a floor installation. Please refer to the "wall render" section of the data sheet, where it clearly states no slurry is needed.
I appreciate all of your comments, but please watch the whole video before you post comments that may not be correct. Questions are always better than assumptions, and if I have failed to clearly communicate something, please ask and I will try to answer.
TileCoach but it’s better put before the product a wire fence or wire chicken? it’s a question I don’t like to judge I know it’s a new product and you have to work with to take all the advantage of the product I like your coaching videos 💪
Video said no lathing which I assume is the chicken wire is needed for that product
Bueno pero no te enojes, dijera el chavo del 8
CD CD
After watching many well executed projects by the tile coach I tore into my own messed up shower. It came out well and I really appreciate all of the excellent Craftsmanship
You're more of a perfectionist on a float demo than many guys are on their tile work. Thanks for the quality info
I love your videos...just had an old timer in the trade for 40 years help me do my shower and float its lots of work...showed me how to plumb sodder copper tile waterproof and all the different styles...since I've remodeled 18 showers and have a waiting list on accepted quotes...love it
This is another great video, and the reason why I rate you as a top builder in You Tube . This is very informative .Thank You.
Pedro Escarfullery I’m a typical homeowner and Tilecoach is awesome!
you should have pre wet the hardi backer with water. you should do this with any type of mortar going on a dry product
I’m a professional tile setter I being doing this for 20 years and I found your videos really helpful . I don’t know why companies don’t pay a little bit more money so installers can do a better job and be proud of the job they do . I blessed to work for a good company and A great boss
They expect us to work miracles with their crap products
i have a spiral shower concept coming up so im exploring new products to use. i feel like its neccessary to float the walls. but i just dont wanna have to wait days for it to dry good. i live in mississippi and my older brother is from chino cali and hes always floating walls. the way grounds shift here im suprised its not mandatory in areas here. I love wayching tile coach because he teaches with all info in more than one way as all my mentors have. i originally fabricated stone for years before i ever touched a tile. i feel it made me have a sharp eye and hand control so i caught on fast but now thank God we hae ppl as The Tile Coach teaching us all new techniques along with seeing new products and some great tips!
I appreciate the instructional video, I am a fellow tile contractor also here in Northern California. I came from SoCal, the land of the floats, so I have a decade of experience with fat mud. I got really excited with this product, too bad it doesn't bond well at all to a waterproof surface. I use alot of GoBoard and was hoping to use this for some tricky areas. I agree that it still has some applications, with this you can mud rather then replace any project where cement board is out of plum. It also seems much better for backsplashes, fireplace prep. It is definitly an improvement over using LFT mortar.
Thank you very much for your effort and time you put into these videos. Greatly appreciate them, Fellow tile installer here
I used this to float a jamb and seat over cement board. No problem. Also set up in around 20 minutes.
Bucket 13,974 mixed. Never before used product. Mixes it perfectly.
I like these kind of longer format videos. I’ve been doing tile for years and haven’t yet seen how this is done until now
Thank you
Hmm, i think maybe you should have wiped it down with a damp rag or sponge before hand. Those boards were probably a little too dusty. I say that only because of my experience with doing repairs where i've seen guys tile over paint or dusty areas, it never sticks very well. So i think that could be the issue here. Also, i just want to say, i totally agree and understand your level of thinking and just "Doing it". You can read instructions and research all you want, but you'll never understand how something truly works until you use it/do it. It's how you learn.
I would recommend you to put thin set before this stuff on the wall.
Please do not let the secret out. Teaching other for free will only create competition, please shut up.
@@edigabrieli7864 I do not recall what video I was watching. Anyway, I never keep any secrets, just love others to do it right way.
Please do another video this time using Mapei planitop 330 fast fiber reinforced wall render. I think you and your audience will be surprised by the results. Another great video Isaac!
Like your worker said.. Old ways are sometimes the good ways.... I like to keep it traditional as much as possible when I do work in my home or rentals... Just know it will last long...
really like the idea of a forum on the website.
Wouldn't consider this a fail, looks like a great product. Thinking a quick thinset scratchcoat or lathe would be the way to go. Also totally agree with ya Coach about us doing things on the fly in the field. Keep the videos coming 👍🏻
I wonder, wouldn't it work too if you keyed in with thinset and immediately did the float with this product?
@@memorizeproverbsI'd really like to see that in a demo.
I think you'd be golden wetting any cement based substrate as far as getting this to stick, I always had great luck wetting surfaces for stucco adhesion.. seems fairly similar.. on block I wet it and applied directly and on wood I used tar paper and chicken wire. Scratch coat / green coat ..finish texture.. either sand or skip trowel
Hey man i suggest a scratch coat of thinset, then throw it up. Might actually stick better like you said later on
This could be an awesome product in the right stances
No lath.....no go.....and nothing beats a fresh hot mop in the morning too. I enjoy how your always up for trying the new things out in the market. Hopefully these trials dont cost you too much in the future
I have a unique situation. I managed to get the Durock installed and Redgarded before realizing just how bad out of plumb the wall was. Two 135 degree angled walls adds to the difficulty. Is there any way to add mud and screed at this point? If so do I need to Redgard it again?
Thanks and keep up the true craftsmanship!!
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼thanks for shows us.... I need to know when I put it mosaics and the walls are not plum.... good review
Isaac you so dope man! I hope to be half the installer you are. Love what you've built bro.
This was a fun video. Better than my HGTV shows. I might try floating for the first time using this mud. I'm gonna practice in my garage first lol I'm going to add thinset first to help it bond to the wallboard better.
Very informative helper tips for a nice bonus
Nice shop👍
This product is a game changer for me. If only I could get it in my state 😭
On any cementicious substrate hydrate with water for better mechanical bond
Watch what stucco guys do to bond mortar to cinderblock walls, etc
Bonding adhesive on foam board possibly
Old school way was to apply a cement slurry first and have first coat wet...
Gotta use water to bond 2 cementicious products together
Not a fan of foam boards, plus their expensive
drilling in a Lowes bucket, brave man
Personally with Uk rendering methods there is few render type materials that would stick to a flat smooth surface without spatterdashing, keying with with a scutch hammer or using a bonding agent.
‘Bonding’ is one of the few products that would stick to something flat and smooth like this, being a gypsum plaster I’d avoid using it in wet areas.
Have you considers spatterdashing with a strong sbr sand and cement mix ?
EML is an excellent product it must be said.
I like that one. Have you used it? But when bridle I may not used. Maybe if used real concrete boards. Mayby stick better.
Lightweight mud is probably the future. If something’s not at risk of blowing away, why not? As long as it’s a strong as traditional mud, count me in.
Loving the long videos!
Glad you like it. I figure the others can skip through.
Please reply: Should I use this on a Kerdi wall, or is there something else I should use? I don't want to use the wire on the walls since they are Kerdi membrane covered. Thanks for all the great videos, o7
Great test demonstration Isaac - it's detailed content like this that sets you head and shoulders above the rest. Your daughter has talent - shoots some good side angles and closeups. A better camera (be nice to see 4K).and lighting would also be a nice step up in video content - especially in dimly-lit bathrooms
I don't think I'd trust any mortar on a vertical surface to adhere without some sort of mechanical bond, especially in quake-prone areas or areas with expansive soils. I suspect Durock would see far-better results, but still not something I'd trust long term absent empirical test results.
It would be very interesting if you sprayed acrylic on the surface to enhance adhesion.
Great job Issac
Try it on exterior Rated Cement Board, Permabase or Durock. Prime it with Prime N Bond then 3701 and you won't get it off.
I'm still floating all my showers without a helper, so I got excited when I heard about a lightweight mud without the need for lath. I like the concept, but that price tag, ouch! If it was 10-15 per bag I'd use it, at least for upstairs showers. My last 3 showers were upstairs, but my next 4 are in single-story homes. Great video. Why so many ads in this one?
Hey Corey, it is great mud but yes I think it has priced itself out of the market here in California where we have so many good mud options. We need to get you a helper, I'm sure someone on here would be willing to help you out to learn some skillz.
Not sure about the ads, I don't place them Google does. In an hour long video there's going to be a lot. But probably a lot less than a network TV show!
I would like to see it on the rough side of Durock to just plumb it up (or render as you say). And wet It first. It think that would be totally bombproof.
After watching this test i still think lath is the way to go
Wooden lath?
@@zhenshuang metal lath , wire mesh kind of like chicken wire
Question…. I used hd custom float without lath on a small section about 8” wide from curb up to plumb about 1/2”
Do you think I’ll have problems after tiling and setting frameless glass door ?
Thanks so much for anyone’s advice
Dave,
I'll bet that if you were to wet the Hardy Backer first then apply the laticrete , the cracking would not be an issue. What do you think?
You could/should pre-wet the hardi. It wouldn't suck the moisture out so fast
Not sure if it worked even with Haribacker except where it bonded better in that tiny area near the top. Maybe first wetting the Hardibacker and using a scratch coat would improve the results ... but most of the Laticrete 3701 looked like it wasn't gonna hold up to house movement for years an years.
Not like with wire backing.
Peace
what if you put redgaurd on the hardibaker first? it would serve as paper barrier and still allow the float? maybe..
Can't beat lath.
When your setting your float strip make sure to embed the strips in the mud and dont just push em in shimmy them in so you know they’re flat
Will this hold flagstone on a block wall with no lathe
Quick question? Couldn’t you use a V notch trowel or a worn quarter notch trowel with a latex modified thinset as the scratch verse lathe and get a mechanical bond that way? I would like to see you do that method to see how well it bonds then !
Great vid
Cheers✌🏼
ive had problem with hbb maybe sponge it damp, ever redgaurded the substrate?
Is there anything, other than time, that would prevent building out a large plumb difference using two applications allowing the first to dry with channels in it to hold the next layer?
You can do multiple scratch coats for sure. In my town the old timers used to double scratch all the rich people's houses. It's a bitch to rip out, and weighs a literal ton, but it works.
I would throw cut fiberglass in the mix 1/4 inch older days it was horse hair
It's going to crack
you know they use to make product called jamo wallmud. same stuff
Mean remind me of the old-timers who use chicken wire and mud will have to start using your techniques thanks for sharing aloha 🤙🏽
That broke my heart. High hopes fall hard.
Is there a way to float kerdi board to get it flat after banding??
And what do you normally float the mud on if not hardie backer?
I have about a 3/8" to 1/2" lowspot with around a 3ft radius on my durock shower wall. Would this product be appropriate here or could I just use a modified thinset to fill this in? I'm planning on using laticrete products just wondering if there is something better for this application?
Do we know what the aggregate is? I’m guessing it’ll be the same stuff as tri lite.
Its even crazier when this stuff dries and you go to pick it up and it weighs nothing
Do you have to waterproof shower walls when you float?
Yes
When floating a wall what goes behind the metal lath?
Would the Hydro Ban Board held better?
I dont have a problem with lath,Is that mud lighter to work with?I've thought about adding little styrofoam balls to mut to lighten it up
Whenever you have mud sagging, does that also mean the coverage behind the surface isn’t sufficient as well?
No, it means the weight of the material used surpasses its adherence ability, and good old gravity takes over.
Mmmm....CEMENT,SAND,LIME...HAS WORK FOR YEARS!!!!DONT WASTE YOUR TIME WITH THAT!!! I LIKE YOUR VIDEOS, GREAT WORK!!!
Has worked for years doesn't always mean better, take for example soldering copper pipes and the propress system. Propress is more expensive but data provided details their failure rate being lower than soldering due to soldering having a higher propriety for user error
And before that people built out of sticks and clay and lived in caves.
Always stay open minded to new products when they can save money, make work easier, safer and may have superior properties.
Either that or stay in your cave with your tin foil hat ;)
Scratch coat wall with platinum thin set, let it dry, then add mud?
Yes 254 cant be wrong🤘
Which paddle would you recommend?
How much would you charge to plumb a 3x5 tub surround
I wanna see tile coach use spec mix lol
ok know do a video with Mapei Planitop 330 Fast! similar product just sets up realy fast!
"Just" a sales rep, I could tell the clarification was coming.
What's the purpose for float strips?
If is good for pools it must be great for showers
I keep telling myself I can do this. Then you start talking tile talk and I start second guessing myself. Lol
What will happen in a few years? The company won't pay for the fix.....
What would be the consequence to tiling a wall without it being leveled first ?? @Tilecoach
A nightmare tile install. Different width of cuts for every single row of tile. High risk of tiles leaning to one side or the other. If all of your walls are plum and level with the ceiling then you can batch cut all your tile cuts and do the install much more quickly.
I'd skim a coat of thinset before I applied this.
it would be a lot easier to sister or shim the wall studs to make it plumb since the wall is already open and then install the backer board - always works for me..
Agree! I floated for many years if you prep your walls/studs correct your cementboard will be great amd waterproof the board its the way to go way easier on the body!
@@VictorSanchez-lz9we He makes great videos - I just don't understand why he keeps trying ti reinvent the wheel...
We have been floating showers for 100 years around here, I'm not re-inventing anything. But yes, trying to plumb up and flatten a wall with shims is another good option.
Backer board bullshit stuff densheild way better easier faster cut like drywall🤘
Hardibacker is Fiberboard
Densheild isn't waterproof but sick floats
Yes, I should have clarified that the FACE of the Denshield is waterproof.
Meet up in Denver?
The spec sheet calls for a slurry coat of Laticrete Platinum for bonding.
No it does not. Read the “wall render” portion of the data sheet. You are reading the bonded mortar bed (floor) section of the data sheet.
Nope, Denshield would not work in this case, under these circumstances.
Does anyone ever grab a mud hawk and not spin it in their hands a few times? its like grabbing a drill and not testing the trigger 4 or 5 times. Just has to be done.
Absolutely, any power tool needs a good 3-5 pull trigger test, and Hawk needs to spin!
Scratch with thinset first.
Try a hard rubber float Isaac
Send me a message on tilecoach.com please
price tag doesn't mean anything if you have to go repair it or even worse.
Of course your material wont stick because you dont use push while applying it.
use a metal mesh first
I am not watching an hour long video. Shop how much does a bag cost?
Well, I just watched the whole thing. I appreciate them making fun of Schluter's All set. That stuff was garbage when it first came out. I have heard rumor that they updated it and its better.
Surely you wouldn't use this without lath. I'd be afraid of the mud and tile cracking over the joints in the cement board. It costs too much to replace a shower, it's not worth the risk. I'd rather be safe and install lath. And, for 25 bucks a bag, I'll lift the heavier mud. Nice video though.
Honestly I learned a crap load about this process from watching 2 thirds of this video... Seeing the lines after you *skreeted*... Then watching it sag on the left...
Your not burning it in you’re keying it in bud