XuTVJet from Planet9 used a wiper arm removal tool to remove the shift mechanism that blocks the clutch slave cylinder from being removed. "I used a $13 wiper arm puller as my pivot lever was stuck on there good after 12+ years." www.planet-9.com/threads/clutch-replacement-guide.251728/post-2210030
25:07 You can actually complete remove the bleed valve which will give you much more room to remove or install the main line bolt on the slave cylinder.
Thank you for filming this and listing resources! Extremely helpful! 🎉🎉 I'm setting up a new set of quick jacks while watching in preparation of doing this on my 987CS!
I just got a 987.1(2005 Boxster 2.7l 5-speed manual) and I figured I watch this tutorial when I'm now discovering I have a 3.2L swap on a 5-speed manual with the 2.7L ECU. I don't even know where to begin, not to mention what clutch am I supposed to get. ever heard of this scenario? I was under the impression you couldn't swap the 3.2l onto the 5 speed from the base boxster.
Not ignoring your question - I don't even know where to begin. Hunch would say it should match the transmission so the 2.7L but if it's a bigger engine then I'm most likely wrong. Someone with more experience should chime in. If you find the answer online, please share so others see
Awesome video, will do my clutch next week. I also see u calculated 22 inches, but will 15 inches be ok with a low profile jack to get out the transmission? Thank you for the video😊
You’re welcome and thanks for taking the time to comment. I can say with 100% certainty that 19” was enough. Any lower is cutting it too close for comfort and might risk not fitting. With 19” of lift it was also barely enough clearance to fit and work under there by the way because you’re in a bent-sitting position.
Hello I have a question about my engine, we put a 2008 cayman 2.7 engine inside a 2005 boxster 2.7 and the car is accelerating poorly, feels like a lack of fuel or starving for air or something....what could this be? My brother said the injectors that came with the 2008 are bigger
To be honest, if you replaced an engine, you probably already know more than me because I haven’t done that yet. I do recall reading something from the pelican 101 book about installing newer engines into older cars with the same displacement: The 2007-08 Boxster engines were the first of the series to get Variocam Plus (variable valve lift). The Carrera 996 had Variocam Plus since the introduction of the 3.6L engine in 2002. The 7.8 DME used in the 2003-06 Boxster didn't control variable valve lift, and there are no pins or wires in the engine harness to control the mechanism. Therefore, you need to add the wires into the engine harness when performing this installation. Pins A1 on both valve lift controllers connect to a 12V source in the harness: use the 12V supply for the variable valve timing solenoid. Pins A2 on the controllers connect to DME connector pin C1 for cylinders 1-3 and pin C26 for cylinders 4-6. www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/11-ENGINE-911_Engine_Swap/11-ENGINE-911_Engine_Swap.htm Sorry I don’t know more, I’ll keep this question in mind as I continue to learn. Maybe try taking it to a dyno shop they might be able to monitor the ECU?
I do but I do not have the exact measurements since the spacers came with the car. I’ll make a note to make a measurement and follow up on this comment the next time I have my wheels off (which will probably be soon 😎)!
Thanks for the video, how did that harbor freight jack work for you? Debating between that one or the 2000 lb version that has a lower profile and higher reach. It’s also almost twice as much though!
It’s been going great. I have three in total. two long reach low profile 3 tons one regular reach low profile 3 tons One of the long reach, low profile ones developed a minor leak when I attempted to jack up a 5500lbs Cayenne using it alone - it doesn’t drop things but slowly releases the hydraulic pressure if left in the same position overnight. Still jacks. Need to fix it. The other two are still working great.
@@RuslanVideoFilms oh sorry I meant the transmission jack! Any issues with the lift height or anything getting the transmission rolled out from under the car? On the floor jacks, I do have one of the regular ones from harbor freight and it’s been holding strong for like 10 years!
Very detailed video! Curious why you didn’t also replace the RMS (seal around the crankshaft) while the tranny and clutch were out. This seems to be an. Issue for 987s over time. Also, when you put it on jacksstands, do they need wood under them to keep them from digging into the floor? The jacking tips were great! I have done work on mine but never jacked it up as I didn’t want to do it wrong
My justifications were: 1. laziness, 2. I can take the transmission out now without too much difficulty if I really need to, 3. A minor oil weep is not the end of the world so I’ll have time, 4. I did do the flywheel because it was recommended to replace. I put that in a separate video, 5. laziness
Absolutely, I’m glad you asked, no I did not because the jackstands I bought have very nice feet and do not need wooden blocks under. they are also spread wide, giving it good support
closest I found is 2005 - 2008, might need to do further digging on how similar/dissimilar they are to the 2011 but I would venture to guess - very similar
Thanks for the reminder! [1] Added to the links in the description under "Resources" [2] Here's a direct link drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ooeDYMtX1jfI5gS7vGs4SO-gSO0q5z9a [3] Let me know if there's anything specific you're looking for, I have a few links bookmarked on hand, need to remember what else I wanted to add to the doc
Tried to knock it out this weekend but got stuck on the A bolt (didn’t have the correct triple square bit). I am much more worried about the “D” bolt. Seems super tight to get off (and back on for that matter). Any tips?
@@derivativYT good morning, (1) you got dis! (2) extensions + swivels. at least three medium extensions and a swivel (if I recall correctly) did the trick. + gloves so when it breaks loose you don't get cut
@@derivativYT ps I include links to the required sockets in the description, is there anything I can do better in terms of listing them in the description so others are less likely to get stuck on waiting on sockets? (asking so I can do better and because I hate waiting on parts / tools lol)
Do you have any advice? Share in the comments below! I'll pin this as a reference comment.
XuTVJet from Planet9 used a wiper arm removal tool to remove the shift mechanism that blocks the clutch slave cylinder from being removed.
"I used a $13 wiper arm puller as my pivot lever was stuck on there good after 12+ years."
www.planet-9.com/threads/clutch-replacement-guide.251728/post-2210030
25:07 You can actually complete remove the bleed valve which will give you much more room to remove or install the main line bolt on the slave cylinder.
Thank you for filming this and listing resources! Extremely helpful! 🎉🎉 I'm setting up a new set of quick jacks while watching in preparation of doing this on my 987CS!
Glad you found it helpful and good luck with your project! 👍
I'm in NC near Charlotte
I just got a 987.1(2005 Boxster 2.7l 5-speed manual) and I figured I watch this tutorial when I'm now discovering I have a 3.2L swap on a 5-speed manual with the 2.7L ECU. I don't even know where to begin, not to mention what clutch am I supposed to get. ever heard of this scenario? I was under the impression you couldn't swap the 3.2l onto the 5 speed from the base boxster.
Not ignoring your question - I don't even know where to begin. Hunch would say it should match the transmission so the 2.7L but if it's a bigger engine then I'm most likely wrong. Someone with more experience should chime in. If you find the answer online, please share so others see
Awesome video, will do my clutch next week. I also see u calculated 22 inches, but will 15 inches be ok with a low profile jack to get out the transmission? Thank you for the video😊
You’re welcome and thanks for taking the time to comment.
I can say with 100% certainty that 19” was enough. Any lower is cutting it too close for comfort and might risk not fitting. With 19” of lift it was also barely enough clearance to fit and work under there by the way because you’re in a bent-sitting position.
@@RuslanVideoFilmsThank you very much for that, excellent tips
Hello I have a question about my engine, we put a 2008 cayman 2.7 engine inside a 2005 boxster 2.7 and the car is accelerating poorly, feels like a lack of fuel or starving for air or something....what could this be? My brother said the injectors that came with the 2008 are bigger
To be honest, if you replaced an engine, you probably already know more than me because I haven’t done that yet.
I do recall reading something from the pelican 101 book about installing newer engines into older cars with the same displacement:
The 2007-08 Boxster engines were the first of the series to get Variocam Plus (variable valve lift). The Carrera 996 had Variocam Plus since the introduction of the 3.6L engine in 2002. The 7.8 DME used in the 2003-06 Boxster didn't control variable valve lift, and there are no pins or wires in the engine harness to control the mechanism. Therefore, you need to add the wires into the engine harness when performing this installation. Pins A1 on both valve lift controllers connect to a 12V source in the harness: use the 12V supply for the variable valve timing solenoid. Pins A2 on the controllers connect to DME connector pin C1 for cylinders 1-3 and pin C26 for cylinders 4-6.
www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/11-ENGINE-911_Engine_Swap/11-ENGINE-911_Engine_Swap.htm
Sorry I don’t know more, I’ll keep this question in mind as I continue to learn. Maybe try taking it to a dyno shop they might be able to monitor the ECU?
@@RuslanVideoFilms thanks
What is your rear wheel offset? Or do you have spacers? Fills the wheel well nicely! 👍👍
I do but I do not have the exact measurements since the spacers came with the car. I’ll make a note to make a measurement and follow up on this comment the next time I have my wheels off (which will probably be soon 😎)!
You generally need new springs if you install spacers as if changes the lever length and puts more strain on the suspension
Thanks for the video, how did that harbor freight jack work for you? Debating between that one or the 2000 lb version that has a lower profile and higher reach. It’s also almost twice as much though!
It’s been going great. I have three in total.
two long reach low profile 3 tons
one regular reach low profile 3 tons
One of the long reach, low profile ones developed a minor leak when I attempted to jack up a 5500lbs Cayenne using it alone - it doesn’t drop things but slowly releases the hydraulic pressure if left in the same position overnight. Still jacks. Need to fix it. The other two are still working great.
@@RuslanVideoFilms oh sorry I meant the transmission jack! Any issues with the lift height or anything getting the transmission rolled out from under the car?
On the floor jacks, I do have one of the regular ones from harbor freight and it’s been holding strong for like 10 years!
Very detailed video! Curious why you didn’t also replace the RMS (seal around the crankshaft) while the tranny and clutch were out. This seems to be an. Issue for 987s over time. Also, when you put it on jacksstands, do they need wood under them to keep them from digging into the floor? The jacking tips were great! I have done work on mine but never jacked it up as I didn’t want to do it wrong
My justifications were: 1. laziness, 2. I can take the transmission out now without too much difficulty if I really need to, 3. A minor oil weep is not the end of the world so I’ll have time, 4. I did do the flywheel because it was recommended to replace. I put that in a separate video, 5. laziness
Absolutely, I’m glad you asked, no I did not because the jackstands I bought have very nice feet and do not need wooden blocks under. they are also spread wide, giving it good support
Do you have materials on how to do this for an 2011 automatic version?
www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/lltuawlxm1iwzs4q1b7ho/ABbFrYw2OeueIehgXqvlqVU?dl=0&e=1&preview=auto+trans.%2C+actuation%2C+housing.pdf&rlkey=ljonoh4zseizd1jyeziuv5lp5
closest I found is 2005 - 2008, might need to do further digging on how similar/dissimilar they are to the 2011 but I would venture to guess - very similar
Where is the mentioned google drive??
Thanks for the reminder!
[1] Added to the links in the description under "Resources"
[2] Here's a direct link drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ooeDYMtX1jfI5gS7vGs4SO-gSO0q5z9a
[3] Let me know if there's anything specific you're looking for, I have a few links bookmarked on hand, need to remember what else I wanted to add to the doc
Я слышал русскую речь!!!
Показалось! 😛 🫡💪
"promosm"
like and subscribe
doing this on a 2006 cayman s thanks to your video. 🫡
🫡 best of luck, those difficult bolts don’t stand a chance
Tried to knock it out this weekend but got stuck on the A bolt (didn’t have the correct triple square bit).
I am much more worried about the “D” bolt. Seems super tight to get off (and back on for that matter). Any tips?
@@derivativYT good morning, (1) you got dis! (2) extensions + swivels. at least three medium extensions and a swivel (if I recall correctly) did the trick. + gloves so when it breaks loose you don't get cut
@@derivativYT ps I include links to the required sockets in the description, is there anything I can do better in terms of listing them in the description so others are less likely to get stuck on waiting on sockets? (asking so I can do better and because I hate waiting on parts / tools lol)
@@RuslanVideoFilmsGoing to be finishing the job tomorrow. Thanks for the great resources 🫡