Excellent video! It's the first one I've found that shows one of the most vital parts--following the same row all the way across. All the other instructional links show them with lines crooked, or the weft/weave of the fabric crooked. It's pretty obvious from your video, but you want to make sure you are following the same row as you go along each side--there is no other way to get stitched lines straight, and fabric, straight. You can also baste a line on each side if you find it a bit difficult to see when you're working on it. Conservation framing (still relevant if you want your piece to last for many years) dictates that you do not apply anything that cannot be removed. As a former picture framer I've never heard of wallpaper paste being used, so personally I would do some research to see if damage may be caused after some years. What if at some point you wanted to say steam clean it, what effect would that have? If anyone is interested, these are the pliers used by framers. They make the job easier, they help to keep the portion of fabric straight, and they are much less likely to rip your fabric given the tension is evenly distributed. www.jacksonsart.com/en-ca/studio-essentials-chrome-alloy-canvas-pliers If the stitcher took a piece in to have professionally framed, they would need to ask the framer how they will be stretching the piece, to make sure it will be done correctly, ie. using stainless steel, or they could use tacks and thread, stitch it, then remove the tacks. It can also be done on acid-free foamcore, lined up, then thread used to hold it in shape and the pins removed. There is more than one way to do it, but it should be archival as far as possible, and it is vital to follow the same row on each end, otherwise your piece will look wonky. Your picture framer should be happy to explain to you how they do it, it's a good teaching moment for them, and it will show you their knowledge of the subject. And if a picture framer is doing this for you, no wallpaper paste is necessary, the method squares it. Under the force of pulling the fabric to stretch it, staples can rip the fabric, so I would be cautious of them. In your video you square up using the piece of wood, and that would be perfect if your wood is completely square. If you know that it is not, no worries, lay down a line and square each line from that first line.
Thanks so much for sharing your information. I have a few pieces of finished cross stitch that I need to frame. Do you have any more advice you could share on putting work into a frame?
@@randomname4726 I need more specific questions, but every piece would need to be stretched first, and personally I recommend placing them under glass to protect them from dust etc. From there you would decided on a mat or matts, and then you can decide on the frame. It depends on how much money you want to spend. Sometimes you can get around spending a fortune if you can find a frame that would work from a thrift store or good sale for instance, but ideally you would have a stretched size first so you can figure the size up for the mat/frame. An average sized image would usually use a 2 1/2 - 3" mat. Wood looks good on needlework, but you could get away with a metal frame as well.
The basic technique is good, but she has not sprayed/damped the work before she starts the stretching. The work shown is very little out of shape. I carry my needlepoint around, so it is very out of shape when I come to stretch it. Spraying the BACK of the work with (clean) water before you stretch it helps to get it into the right shape.
I tried to get to the link where you can buy her canvas work kit, but the link is inactive now. Anyone have ideas about what kind of wallpaper paste I need to use or is it not important?
I understand the reasoning behind using the wallpaper paste but I would strongly urge anyone with a beloved piece of needlework not to do this. It will yellow, flake and crack. I lost count how many people would bring in pieces of beautiful work that had been knackered using this and it is a nightmare to fix and restore especially if your family likes to keep items to pass on.
Hi i was wondering if you can help me. i am new to the world of tapestry and recently bough 2 very large ones from a second hand shop. They slope down on the right side. can i use this method to straighten them. I am not sure what they are sewn on too seems a bit like sack material to me. thanks
Best video on the subject, IMO!!
Agreed!
Thank you so much! I'd looked quite a bit for a concise, well-organized approach to blocking a finished needlework canvas, and your video was perfect.
Any reason you lay on the paste by hand instead of using a brush?
Made it all so much clearer.
Delighted you found it useful!
Excellent video! It's the first one I've found that shows one of the most vital parts--following the same row all the way across. All the other instructional links show them with lines crooked, or the weft/weave of the fabric crooked. It's pretty obvious from your video, but you want to make sure you are following the same row as you go along each side--there is no other way to get stitched lines straight, and fabric, straight. You can also baste a line on each side if you find it a bit difficult to see when you're working on it. Conservation framing (still relevant if you want your piece to last for many years) dictates that you do not apply anything that cannot be removed. As a former picture framer I've never heard of wallpaper paste being used, so personally I would do some research to see if damage may be caused after some years. What if at some point you wanted to say steam clean it, what effect would that have?
If anyone is interested, these are the pliers used by framers. They make the job easier, they help to keep the portion of fabric straight, and they are much less likely to rip your fabric given the tension is evenly distributed. www.jacksonsart.com/en-ca/studio-essentials-chrome-alloy-canvas-pliers
If the stitcher took a piece in to have professionally framed, they would need to ask the framer how they will be stretching the piece, to make sure it will be done correctly, ie. using stainless steel, or they could use tacks and thread, stitch it, then remove the tacks. It can also be done on acid-free foamcore, lined up, then thread used to hold it in shape and the pins removed. There is more than one way to do it, but it should be archival as far as possible, and it is vital to follow the same row on each end, otherwise your piece will look wonky. Your picture framer should be happy to explain to you how they do it, it's a good teaching moment for them, and it will show you their knowledge of the subject. And if a picture framer is doing this for you, no wallpaper paste is necessary, the method squares it. Under the force of pulling the fabric to stretch it, staples can rip the fabric, so I would be cautious of them.
In your video you square up using the piece of wood, and that would be perfect if your wood is completely square. If you know that it is not, no worries, lay down a line and square each line from that first line.
Thanks so much for sharing your information. I have a few pieces of finished cross stitch that I need to frame. Do you have any more advice you could share on putting work into a frame?
@@randomname4726 I need more specific questions, but every piece would need to be stretched first, and personally I recommend placing them under glass to protect them from dust etc. From there you would decided on a mat or matts, and then you can decide on the frame. It depends on how much money you want to spend. Sometimes you can get around spending a fortune if you can find a frame that would work from a thrift store or good sale for instance, but ideally you would have a stretched size first so you can figure the size up for the mat/frame. An average sized image would usually use a 2 1/2 - 3" mat. Wood looks good on needlework, but you could get away with a metal frame as well.
The basic technique is good, but she has not sprayed/damped the work before she starts the stretching. The work shown is very little out of shape. I carry my needlepoint around, so it is very out of shape when I come to stretch it. Spraying the BACK of the work with (clean) water before you stretch it helps to get it into the right shape.
Your needlepoint looked almost square to begin with but it’s much harder when it’s badly warped. Any suggestions?
This is sooo good thank you!
ماذا اضفتي على الماء ..؟
I tried to get to the link where you can buy her canvas work kit, but the link is inactive now. Anyone have ideas about what kind of wallpaper paste I need to use or is it not important?
thank you.
A great video. learned heaps. thank you
thank you! needed this!
I understand the reasoning behind using the wallpaper paste but I would strongly urge anyone with a beloved piece of needlework not to do this.
It will yellow, flake and crack. I lost count how many people would bring in pieces of beautiful work that had been knackered using this and it is a nightmare to fix and restore especially if your family likes to keep items to pass on.
Vreau in limba romana
Hi i was wondering if you can help me. i am new to the world of tapestry and recently bough 2 very large ones from a second hand shop. They slope down on the right side. can i use this method to straighten them. I am not sure what they are sewn on too seems a bit like sack material to me. thanks
Thank you so much ! :)
If you don't have wall paper paste, whet else could you use? Can you use the wall paper paste on silk fibers?
Will the paste go through to the right side?