Thanks. I just bought a Ridgeway clock with the identical movement from the thrift store. It definitely needs a cleaning. I was going to use sewing machine oil to oil it as I've read in several tutorials, but I am going to order the synthetic clock oil instead.
Great Video - thanks for sharing. I got a Schatz ships bell 8 day clock with a yacht I bought and right from the start it kept reasonably good time. The chime started to wind down at a different rate to the clock and genius that I-am-not, I decided to spray WD 40 into the holes in the brass casing while it was still mounted to the bulkhead. This made matters worse and the clock no longer ran for more than a few days. I have taken it off the boat and will clean and re oil as per your instructions. fingers crossed it works well when back on the bulkhead. Thank you so much !
@@marks7352 I would not the WD in WD 40 stands for water Displacement. The oil we use is thin and the WD40 will displace the oil and will make a mess of your clock.
Thank you for this helpful video. We have a Howard Miller 630-148 mantle clock with a Westminster chime. It is wound once a week and loses 2-4 minutes in that interval. Of the 3 springs, the middle one has a dry rubbing feel in the latter part of winding. Could this be what is slowing things down? Can & should the springs be oiled? Should I turn the +/- adjusting screw labeled 10s/d? Or could it simply need cleaning and oiling?
There is another video on how to take car of that. If you subscribe to our youtube channel you will see the one about "adjusting the speed of your clock" Thanks for the imput
I have a Howard Miller wall clock that's about ten years old. Haven't oiled it for a while, maybe about eight years. Is what you just demonstrated what Howard Miller recommends in the owner's manual? They say to clean and oil the clock every two years. I talked to our local clock shop guy who said that it only needs to be done every five years or so. They also talked about $250 to clean the clock, must be taking it completely apart. What do you recommend? Just want to be sure we're following the maintenance recommended by the manufacturer. This is our beloved wedding anniversary clock, so we want to keep it going and going. Would appreciate your advice. Thank you!
We are a Howard Miller Certified repair and sales center. If you can clean and oil the clock yourself, then yes every 2 years would be perfect. However if you paid someone $250.00 every 2 years to clean and oil the clock you will wast your money. The modern day clock movement, typically will last about 20-25 years. We have seen them go longer. If you do service it, it will extend the life quite a bit, but again, if you are paying 250.00 each time, in a 20 year period, you will buy that movement 4 times over. We service over 1000 Grandfather clocks per year, we have 3 techs that perform around 3 sometimes 4 cleanings per day 5, days a week. Pulling the movement out, cleaning and re-oiling the movement like in the video is a great way to extend the life of the movement. We get stupid comments from clock repair people, telling us that the only way to clean the movement is to disassemble it, clean and reassemble it. While this is true for older antique clock movements, its foolish for a modern day movement. If you are not careful and don't know what you are doing, you can damage the movement more than it is before you start. You can purchase a new movement and install it yourself for a lot less money and certainly a lot less headaches and hastes than going through the hassles of disassembling one. The video was made for people that don't have the equipment nor the knowledge to tear one down and rebuild it. By cleaning like in the video, you should extend the life of the movement by several years, especially if you are having issues with it now.
@@ClockRepairService Thank you for answering my question. People seem to have different ideas about what should be done. I wouldn't try disassembling the clock myself. Was thinking my clock repair guy might do the disassembly and "thorough cleaning" every ten years at around $250, not every 2 years. I could do the cleaning & oiling you did in the video myself every 2 years without disassembly of the movement. I noticed that I can get a new movement for my 2008 HM Earnest 620-433 clock for around $250 to $300. I agree that shouldn't be too hard to change out with my skills. If I can re-key door locks; rebuild a Kitchen Mixer, work on cars, and fix an A/C, I should be able to deal with a clock, but I don't want to learn how to disassemble the movement. If you have any further comments, I would appreciate them. Thank you again for your advice!
Floating balances should not get any oil. They should be cleaned (if you want to ) in NAPTHA or alcohol, then dried out. There is no place for oil on them.
It probably will run for awhile. Spray lubes will gunk up the gears and pivots and turn to a gum like substance. Many of them will melt the lacquer on the brass plates and destroy the movement.
Hi, I have a Hamilton mantle clock and it has stopped chiming. And, it won't wind with the key for the most part. Hammers will lift and not fall back down. I fool with it some and it will chime for awhile then stop again. Can you offer me and suggestions on how to fix this problem and what might be wrong? Thank you
Sherry, You might at this point need to have the movement cleaned with a cleaning solution. Usually when the hammers wont come down smoothly, the oil has gummed up inside parts you cannot get to without completely taking the clock apart. If you want to send me a picture of the movement (it can still be in the clock case) I might be able to point you in the right direction for either repairing or replacing the movement.
Thank you so much for replying. The clock has almost stopped completely now. I need to keep setting the time. It strikes all over the place after I set it, not the correct chime or in order. I will try to get a photo. The movement looks like the one you are oiling in the video. Not sure I know how to add a photo here. How would I do that? Sorry! Thank you
Hello great video and thank you for taking your time to help people like myself. I have a Ridgeway grandfather clock about 30 years old. The chime is slow but the gong is normal. I never had it maintained. For me to oil it like you show in the video. How do i pull it out ? Do I need to put styrofoam blocks on top of weight pulleys before taking the mechanism out of the clock. Do you have another video link that shows the removal of the clock face and mechanism out of a grandfather clock. And if you can please send me the link for the oil kit thank you. Nick from Queens NY
Nick, its best to pull the movement out, yes. I don't have a video for that, there are so many ways that the movement will come out on Grandfather clocks. We have taken hundreds of pictures of the GF clocks we have worked on, hoping one day to put them all together so someone can pick their model # out and follow along to removing the movement, unfortunately we just don't have them organized yet. If you email me a picture of a close up of your clock face, including the wood frame around it, I might be able to point out how to get the movement out. Its not difficult, usually only a few screws hold it in.
Hi Sir.... I have a clock similar to this and cannot seem to regulate the time. I can see an S and F for slow and fast but don't seem to know how to activate this regulation. Can you help please with some instruction. Thank you, Mervyn
Should you wear gloves? Do the oils in your skin affect the clock in any adverse ways? Should I use a cleaner to remove the dirt or just remove it manually as shown? Thank You.
you dont have to wear gloves. Some people do, it stops your fingerprints from getting on the brass. The oil is fine to get on your skin. If you have a way to clean it that's fine, the video was showing people who do not have a cleaner or a way to clean it. This method works great for us out in peoples homes when we work on grandfather clocks, however in the shop we do use a cleaner
i have a similar mantle clock as shown in the Video three winding points, the left spring and right fill fine to wind, the centre winding point keeps turning with the key, does this mean the spring is broken (wuttemberg 1920s). The chimes do work but doesn't run. Is the centre winding point for the time? and our easy is it to dismantle to replace spring. thanks great video
Yes, the spring has either broken or come off its post. The center winding post is for the time and the 2 outside post are for the chiming and striking. Unfortunately you will have to remove the movement and dismantle the movement in order to get to the spring problem. If your not comfortable with it, I can make a suggestion for a repair shop that you can mail the clock or just the movement to for the repairs.
I own a mantle clock that winds up without a pendulum that stopped working. The wheel that moves back and forth does not float. Is it supposed to float?
Yes, the balance wheel should float. if its dropped down and rubbing on its frame it will stop. There are so many other tings that can go wrong with a floating balance. Also to purchase a floating balance is expensive. I personally would look into purchasing a new movement if yours is still made.
Can anything be done to make the balance wheel float again? Black residue is around the axles on all the gears where they stick out through the back plate. Is there anything else I can do?
ok thanks. i dont have an ultrasound and had that idea from cleaning carbs. i just want to make sure there is not rubber bushing or anything that could get damaged
It may sound crazy, put the ultimate goal to oiling a movement is to put just the correct amount of oil in each pivot hole. When you put it on with the paintbrush, I would assume you put on to much, but when you wipe it off with a paper towel, you have no idea how much, If any oil is left in the pivot hole. The correct viscosity of the oil is the most important thing to consider when oiling a clock, however how much you put on is as equally as important. The tip of the gear floats on the oil in the pivot hole. Too thick of an oil or too much of an oil will not allow this to happen. If the tip of the gear sits on the bottom side of the pivot hole, you might as well run the clock dry. The pivot hole will become oblong and the clock will eventually stop.
www.clockpartsplus.com/store/p111/Horace_Whitlock%27s_Premium_Quality_Clock_Oil_Kit.html This is the best lace to purchase. Its also on Ebay and Amazon
Daniel, Yes , this oil has several properties and agents in it that will continue to run in extremely cold weather as well as hot weather, including both high and low humidity. We decided not to include those properties in the information, not many people work on clock towers and most of our clocks customers have their clocks indoors and would not need that information. Although this oil goes along way, and stays put where you lay it, I would think you would need several bottles in order to do an average sized clock tower. In all honesty, we have only used it on one of our clock tower projects about 6 years ago, (we don't do many) I drive by the tower a few times a year and it is still running and keeping time. As far as I know we were the last to service it, so I don't think its been touched since then, other than winding and setting the time. I hope this helps.
Oil should be put on the pivots as shown. Its best not to put oil on the teeth of the gears themselves. If oil is on the internal gears, it will only collect dust and dirt and gunk up the movement.
Thanks. I just bought a Ridgeway clock with the identical movement from the thrift store. It definitely needs a cleaning. I was going to use sewing machine oil to oil it as I've read in several tutorials, but I am going to order the synthetic clock oil instead.
My clock is a model 520 with an M8 dial - does the "8" stand for it being an 8-day clock?
I didnt even know a clock needs oil...very interesting thankyou
no oil is what stops most clocks
Great Video - thanks for sharing. I got a Schatz ships bell 8 day clock with a yacht I bought and right from the start it kept reasonably good time. The chime started to wind down at a different rate to the clock and genius that I-am-not, I decided to spray WD 40 into the holes in the brass casing while it was still mounted to the bulkhead.
This made matters worse and the clock no longer ran for more than a few days.
I have taken it off the boat and will clean and re oil as per your instructions.
fingers crossed it works well when back on the bulkhead.
Thank you so much !
Please let us know how it goes, we love it when we get feedback
I was thinking Wd-40....Guesss I won't.Thanks for your comment about it
@@marks7352 I would not the WD in WD 40 stands for water Displacement. The oil we use is thin and the WD40 will displace the oil and will make a mess of your clock.
Thank you so very much for making this video It helped me greatly. I'm very greatful to you.
Patrick, Im glad it helped you out
Thank you for this helpful video. We have a Howard Miller 630-148 mantle clock with a Westminster chime. It is wound once a week and loses 2-4 minutes in that interval. Of the 3 springs, the middle one has a dry rubbing feel in the latter part of winding. Could this be what is slowing things down? Can & should the springs be oiled? Should I turn the +/- adjusting screw labeled 10s/d? Or could it simply need cleaning and oiling?
There is another video on how to take car of that. If you subscribe to our youtube channel you will see the one about "adjusting the speed of your clock" Thanks for the imput
Thank you so, so much!! My clock is going :-)
We are so glad you got it going.
Very nicely done!
Thanks
Thank you
Sounds like the dude from the sunscreen song. Nice tutorial thanks.
I have a Howard Miller wall clock that's about ten years old. Haven't oiled it for a while, maybe about eight years. Is what you just demonstrated what Howard Miller recommends in the owner's manual? They say to clean and oil the clock every two years. I talked to our local clock shop guy who said that it only needs to be done every five years or so. They also talked about $250 to clean the clock, must be taking it completely apart. What do you recommend? Just want to be sure we're following the maintenance recommended by the manufacturer. This is our beloved wedding anniversary clock, so we want to keep it going and going. Would appreciate your advice. Thank you!
We are a Howard Miller Certified repair and sales center. If you can clean and oil the clock yourself, then yes every 2 years would be perfect. However if you paid someone $250.00 every 2 years to clean and oil the clock you will wast your money. The modern day clock movement, typically will last about 20-25 years. We have seen them go longer. If you do service it, it will extend the life quite a bit, but again, if you are paying 250.00 each time, in a 20 year period, you will buy that movement 4 times over. We service over 1000 Grandfather clocks per year, we have 3 techs that perform around 3 sometimes 4 cleanings per day 5, days a week. Pulling the movement out, cleaning and re-oiling the movement like in the video is a great way to extend the life of the movement. We get stupid comments from clock repair people, telling us that the only way to clean the movement is to disassemble it, clean and reassemble it. While this is true for older antique clock movements, its foolish for a modern day movement. If you are not careful and don't know what you are doing, you can damage the movement more than it is before you start. You can purchase a new movement and install it yourself for a lot less money and certainly a lot less headaches and hastes than going through the hassles of disassembling one. The video was made for people that don't have the equipment nor the knowledge to tear one down and rebuild it. By cleaning like in the video, you should extend the life of the movement by several years, especially if you are having issues with it now.
@@ClockRepairService Thank you for answering my question. People seem to have different ideas about what should be done. I wouldn't try disassembling the clock myself. Was thinking my clock repair guy might do the disassembly and "thorough cleaning" every ten years at around $250, not every 2 years. I could do the cleaning & oiling you did in the video myself every 2 years without disassembly of the movement. I noticed that I can get a new movement for my 2008 HM Earnest 620-433 clock for around $250 to $300. I agree that shouldn't be too hard to change out with my skills. If I can re-key door locks; rebuild a Kitchen Mixer, work on cars, and fix an A/C, I should be able to deal with a clock, but I don't want to learn how to disassemble the movement. If you have any further comments, I would appreciate them. Thank you again for your advice!
Very little oil used then. What about the floating balance I think I can see. What's your preference there? Good tutorial; thanks.
Floating balances should not get any oil. They should be cleaned (if you want to ) in NAPTHA or alcohol, then dried out. There is no place for oil on them.
Thanks. Appreciate that.
I just sprayed some lubricant spray onto the movement and it seems to be working fine. For now. Was that a bad idea?
It probably will run for awhile. Spray lubes will gunk up the gears and pivots and turn to a gum like substance. Many of them will melt the lacquer on the brass plates and destroy the movement.
Hi, I have a Hamilton mantle clock and it has stopped chiming. And, it won't wind with the key for the most part. Hammers will lift and not fall back down. I fool with it some and it will chime for awhile then stop again. Can you offer me and suggestions on how to fix this problem and what might be wrong? Thank you
Sherry, You might at this point need to have the movement cleaned with a cleaning solution. Usually when the hammers wont come down smoothly, the oil has gummed up inside parts you cannot get to without completely taking the clock apart. If you want to send me a picture of the movement (it can still be in the clock case) I might be able to point you in the right direction for either repairing or replacing the movement.
Thank you so much for replying. The clock has almost stopped completely now. I need to keep setting the time. It strikes all over the place after I set it, not the correct chime or in order. I will try to get a photo. The movement looks like the one you are oiling in the video. Not sure I know how to add a photo here. How would I do that? Sorry! Thank you
Hello great video and thank you for taking your time to help people like myself. I have a Ridgeway grandfather clock about 30 years old. The chime is slow but the gong is normal. I never had it maintained. For me to oil it like you show in the video. How do i pull it out ? Do I need to put styrofoam blocks on top of weight pulleys before taking the mechanism out of the clock. Do you have another video link that shows the removal of the clock face and mechanism out of a grandfather clock. And if you can please send me the link for the oil kit thank you. Nick from Queens NY
Nick, its best to pull the movement out, yes. I don't have a video for that, there are so many ways that the movement will come out on Grandfather clocks. We have taken hundreds of pictures of the GF clocks we have worked on, hoping one day to put them all together so someone can pick their model # out and follow along to removing the movement, unfortunately we just don't have them organized yet. If you email me a picture of a close up of your clock face, including the wood frame around it, I might be able to point out how to get the movement out. Its not difficult, usually only a few screws hold it in.
Hi Sir.... I have a clock similar to this and cannot seem to regulate the time. I can see an S and F for slow and fast but don't seem to know how to activate this regulation. Can you help please with some instruction. Thank you, Mervyn
If you can send a picture of the back to my email, I can look at it and be able to walk you through it bob@clockrepairservice.com thanks
Should you wear gloves? Do the oils in your skin affect the clock in any adverse ways? Should I use a cleaner to remove the dirt or just remove it manually as shown? Thank You.
You do not need to wear gloves. The oil on your fingers will eat through the lacquer on the movement, but if you wipe it down all should be good.
you dont have to wear gloves. Some people do, it stops your fingerprints from getting on the brass. The oil is fine to get on your skin. If you have a way to clean it that's fine, the video was showing people who do not have a cleaner or a way to clean it. This method works great for us out in peoples homes when we work on grandfather clocks, however in the shop we do use a cleaner
Very good tutorial!
Thank you
Thank you Calin
i have a similar mantle clock as shown in the Video three winding points, the left spring and right fill fine to wind, the centre winding point keeps turning with the key, does this mean the spring is broken (wuttemberg 1920s).
The chimes do work but doesn't run. Is the centre winding point for the time? and our easy is it to dismantle to replace spring. thanks great video
Yes, the spring has either broken or come off its post. The center winding post is for the time and the 2 outside post are for the chiming and striking. Unfortunately you will have to remove the movement and dismantle the movement in order to get to the spring problem. If your not comfortable with it, I can make a suggestion for a repair shop that you can mail the clock or just the movement to for the repairs.
I own a mantle clock that winds up without a pendulum that stopped working. The wheel that moves back and forth does not float. Is it supposed to float?
Yes, the balance wheel should float. if its dropped down and rubbing on its frame it will stop. There are so many other tings that can go wrong with a floating balance. Also to purchase a floating balance is expensive. I personally would look into purchasing a new movement if yours is still made.
Can anything be done to make the balance wheel float again? Black residue is around the axles on all the gears where they stick out through the back plate. Is there anything else I can do?
May I ask how often you should do this?
Manufacturers suggest every 2-3 years. The oil we use is a synthetic blend and you can actually do it about every 3-5 years
VIDEOHEREBOB
7
Very so much for all your teachings.
Do you have a link to that oil kit that you mentioned in the video? It seems like something that would be very useful.
www.clockpartsplus.com/store/c62/Clock_Oil_and_Clock_Oil_kits.html here is one place you can get it
for cleaning out the dirty oil, can you spray it with brake or carbeurator cleaner?
I have heard of people doing that, however, I have not. we use a clock cleaning solution in the ultrasonic when we clean at the shop.
ok thanks. i dont have an ultrasound and had that idea from cleaning carbs. i just want to make sure there is not rubber bushing or anything that could get damaged
Does this apply for a (Kundo) 400 Day clock?
yes it apply for all clocks.
I apply the oil with a small paint brush and then wipe the area with a paper towel.
It may sound crazy, put the ultimate goal to oiling a movement is to put just the correct amount of oil in each pivot hole. When you put it on with the paintbrush, I would assume you put on to much, but when you wipe it off with a paper towel, you have no idea how much, If any oil is left in the pivot hole. The correct viscosity of the oil is the most important thing to consider when oiling a clock, however how much you put on is as equally as important. The tip of the gear floats on the oil in the pivot hole. Too thick of an oil or too much of an oil will not allow this to happen. If the tip of the gear sits on the bottom side of the pivot hole, you might as well run the clock dry. The pivot hole will become oblong and the clock will eventually stop.
VERY GOOD , BRASIL OK.
please send me back the mess ,where do i buy the oil and the small bottle to fill the oil ,please tell if you got the comment
www.clockpartsplus.com/store/p111/Horace_Whitlock%27s_Premium_Quality_Clock_Oil_Kit.html This is the best lace to purchase. Its also on Ebay and Amazon
would this apply to clocktowers
Daniel, Yes , this oil has several properties and agents in it that will continue to run in extremely cold weather as well as hot weather, including both high and low humidity. We decided not to include those properties in the information, not many people work on clock towers and most of our clocks customers have their clocks indoors and would not need that information. Although this oil goes along way, and stays put where you lay it, I would think you would need several bottles in order to do an average sized clock tower. In all honesty, we have only used it on one of our clock tower projects about 6 years ago, (we don't do many) I drive by the tower a few times a year and it is still running and keeping time. As far as I know we were the last to service it, so I don't think its been touched since then, other than winding and setting the time. I hope this helps.
What about the behind external gears, you didn;t show
Oil should be put on the pivots as shown. Its best not to put oil on the teeth of the gears themselves. If oil is on the internal gears, it will only collect dust and dirt and gunk up the movement.
please give me the name of the clock oil again. Thanks
Horace Whitlock's Premium Quality Clock Oil
clockrepairservice don’t see the link for where to get it?
www.clockpartsplus.com/store/p111/Horace_Whitlock%27s_Premium_Quality_Clock_Oil_Kit.html
Sorry for the delay.
So do ya like the oil? LOL
Yes we do, there is allot of junk out there.