For anyone looking for ring pliers, the 4611A2 would be just the right size with a 1.8mm tip. The one linked in the video (4611A3 ) has a 2.3mm tip, which as the author mentioned, are a touch too big.
I bought those, but I cannot get them to fit, the pliers are too thick just above the pins. The ones the author uses, where you can adjust the length of the pin part, may be the ones I need, like Channel Lock 926 or equivalent.
Fantastic video, I am an elderly DYI lady and really appreciated the step by step instructions. I have to admit I watched other videos and this was by far the best! Thank you so much and keep up the good work.
You are very welcome! Kudos on getting the job done. It’s great to hear success stories like yours. It’s not every day I hear an elderly lady tackling a job like this. Plenty of grown men have called it quits with this repair. You’re a modern day Rosie if you don’t mind me saying so. Cheers! 💪
3 years later and this video is still coming in handy. Just used this guide to change out the AC Clutch on my 2008 Civic LX Coupe. Like a poster below, my car had a tab that stuck out for the washer reservoir mount that made it a bit more difficult. Bending this tab out of the way helped. It also appeared you were able to go almost straight in to tighten the nut on the clutch. I had to use a swivel socket adapter as the metal bulkhead on my car seemed to stick out farther than it appears on your video. Only other hitch I had was getting the new pulley lined up straight to tap it into place. I ended up holding the compressor at the right angle and my wife tapped the pulley on using a 2x4 to protect it's surface. Your tip for the stainless steel washer was spot on. Using the stock shim, the clutch rubbed on the pulley. Quick trip to Lowes to purchase a pack of 3 washers. Using one (as you did), worked perfectly. I did not have the correct size feeler gauges but had one that was a bit too thick. It would not quite fit so I knew I was close. AC works perfectly now. Many thanks for putting this video together.
Washer size I used was the thinnest M10 I could find at Lowe's. Just read your comment and watched this video, helped my friend save a lot of money and stay cool this summer. Thank you so much
Thanks for the video. I got the Honda OEM clutch shim set (part no 38912-pe1-702). It has 5 shims of different thickness so you can dial on the air gap perfectly. 2007 civic with 160k miles and the AC is back! Took about 6 hours and did a new serpentine belt on reassembly.
I found this video to be the best at showing what I needed to do. Long story short I discovered my clutch coil was burnt out and my pulley bearing was worn out. I bought a clutch kit online, some snap ring pliers and feeler gauges locally, and proceeded as shown in the video. Except, I did not remove alternator and (very fortunately) had the old pulley come off by hand. Big $$$ saved for me, big thanks to you for making the detailed video.
Glad this video helped! Always good to hear another success story. Correct, removing the alternator isn’t necessary. It’s crazy that the pulley came off by hand. That’s the first time I’ve heard of it working out so well. Thanks for the comment 👍
NOTE ON WASHER: I just ran to Lowe's and used a washer from the hardware section. It provided a significantly larger gap than recommended but it works just the same. Thanks for the video, saved me over a thousand dollars from going to the Honda Dealership
Nice! And yeah, the “standard” stainless washers from the hardware stores seem to do the trick for those not wanting to get the shim kit from Honda. Mine still works great. Glad to hear your repair was a success! Thanks for the comment 👍
Excellent video. I watched it before replacing clutch. I managed to remove all four bolts of AC without removing aternator. Strongly recommend long nose snap ring pliers and pulley puller.
Thank you for your video. I just did the same job on my Civic and your video made the job possible. I have A/C now and I don't think I would have attempted this repair without your tips
It took a few afternoons but I got mine swapped out using your guide. I tried to use my nice set of snap ring pliers with interchangeable tips but they wouldn't even fit inside the coil. Then I tried a cheap set of snap ring pliers and the hinge broke. So I gave in and ordered the 1.8mm snap ring pliers and they worked great. The tips on the Knipex ones are angled outward unlike my other two sets and that made all of the difference. I didn't need to remove the alternator or unbolt the compressor. Instead I used the jack to push the engine to the left side of the car about half an inch and that gave enough clearance to remove the pulley. I also couldn't get the screw out for the ground wire so I spliced it instead.
James Patrick Interesting! I hadn’t thought of moving the engine like that. Good idea! Yes, the Knipex pliers are a must. Just impossible with out them. Glad the video helped! Thanks for the comment and pro tip 👍
I wasn't able to remove compressor bolts to give clearance of pulley removal due to the shafts. Moving the engine did solve the problem. Thanks, cheers!
@@aaronw816 I did not have to loosen the motor mounts. I held the jack between the car frame and the engine and turned the jack's screw by hand. There is enough play in the motor mounts to provide clearance to get the pulley out. Just be aware that if your motor mounts are dry rotted then doing this might crack the rubber.
I did this with help from this video. The recommended pliers are to large for the holes in snap ring, but it popped the snap ring off by placing the ends of the pliers inside the ring and applying outward pressure until it finally sprung off. The bushings do not work as mentioned. I used a copper bushing from Auto Parts Store which worked perfect. Took me about 10 hours, and yes it was hard. Don't think I could have done it without the video. Thanks Man.
tim lovejoy You are welcome! And yes, I had the same issue with the pliers which I tried to convey accurately, but I think I could’ve been more clear. Thanks for the call out there. 10hrs, yeah I completely believe it. This fix can be nasty. Glad you got it done!
07 Si owner that just did this. Not an easy task. You don't need to move the alternator at all to loosen the compressor bolts so long as you have swivel socket tips, and the long nose snap pliers are a must. Seriously. Get someone to help you hold the compressor/keep it twisted so you can work on it because we have a lot less clearance than the other civics. Used the OEM shim and new snap rings. $40 clutch kit and 5 or so hours. That all being said, if you can get a shop to just vacuum the system and take out the compressor to replace the clutch for cheap, go that route because they can easily have it done in half the time that way. Fantastic video thank you!
This video is wonderful!! Gives you all the information and guidance needed to complete this job.. was able to knock it out in 4hrs thanks to you. I bought the assembly from your link and anyone thinking of doing this it was only $40. Really appreciate you taking the time and energy to make this video.. thanks brother !
Great video, definitely took the anxiety out of doing the job, especially sense it was not my car and on a limited time. But here are some very important points that may have been overlooked and can save everyone time: 1) When putting the stator on, you must align it with the bubble protrusion on the back of the stator to one of two holes on the AC compressor. There is one at 10 o'clock and one at 7 o'clock. I aligned mine to the 10 o'clock so that the attached wires can be easily routed to the screwed holder on the AC connector. If you miss this step, the stator will not be flushed and it will not be aligned properly. Ask me how I know? 2) While mounting the pulley, you should mount the AC compressor with at least one bolt (on top) to hold the compressor in place. This allows the pulley to be pushed in straight. I used a brake pad separator to gently push in the pulley using the car compartment frame to push against. Once the pulley is in, then wacking it with a wooden board, it goes in straight back. With the stock snap rings, you need the 1.8mm tip Snap Ring Pliers 4611A3. Definitely be prepared to buy shim washers as the packaged shims and the original shims will not work perfectly. You really don't need to take out the alternator. I didn't and had no issues. Thanks again Fast Fix.
Robert Orellana thanks Robert! Always happy to read comments like this. I don’t remember the protrusions on the back of the coil, so either I got lucky or forgot to mention it. Thanks for calling that out! Yes, 100% on the 1.8 pliers you mentioned and the shim kit. My use of a washer was a desperation fix, but it worked out perfectly. Glad this video helped you and thanks again for taking the time to add these helpful tips. Much appreciated! 🤙
Thanks for making this video! I replaced the ac clutch on a 2011 civic lx with 170k miles. I did not remove the alternator but instead I lifted the car and worked from the bottom. I got those snap ring pliers another commenter suggested and it worked perfectly for the inner snap ring. My mistake was that I did not set the inside snap ring securely, and after running for a day the pulley dragged the coil and ripped the electrical cord out. I had to order another clutch. Luckily I was able to securely place the snap ring in, and now the ac works. Also I just used the old shims. All and all, this video was extremely helpful.
Hello. Thanks for sharing your success story! I love hearing these! You provided good advice and a quality control point worth mentioning. Thanks! Glad this helped. Keep on keeping on 🤙
This video was useful to me - thanks. The same happened to my Honda CRV. The AC compressor is practically in the same location. I too needed to change the compressor bearing/pulley and I did it from the same angle you did. At first I tried to get to it from the front but I could twist the compressor around enough. So I was able to take off the clutch pulley using a pulley wheel puller quite easily. (I left all the AC fluid hoses attached.) A useful tip could be that when bolting the compressor back in place, on my compressor there was a little lip of some kind at the top of the compressor nearest the engine block, which helped you align the compressor back into position to allow one to replace the four bolts holding the compressor in place. I left the original coil in place and changed the fried relay in the engine. Bingo, all working.
I appreciate the vid!! A $57 repair for the clutch assembly and ring pliers to have AC again feels nice. Changing the Clutch assembly went flawlessly with the right tools and your vid when I got confused. Thanks again!
Just wanted to thank you for your video. Really helped me replace my clutch coil on my 2011 Honda accord. The snap rings were a PAIN to get remove and replace. Emphasize on getting good snap ring pliers.
I have a slightly older Civic, 1994, with the AC compressor mounted to the left of the crank pulley. Just about everything still applied and this video was very helpful. Thanks!
Awesome! Thank you for making this video! I was able to change mine out in 4 hours or so, and now I have AC again! It was great to have all the tools and parts on hand before I started. The hardest part for me was the snap rings and keeping the compressor from moving. The only time I needed a second pair of hands was when driving the new pulley on. Thanks again!
Thanks for the video. You just saved me $2047.00. The dealer wanted $2180.00. They wanted to replaced the whole system. I paid $90 for the clutch and $25 for the snap-ring pliers. I was dummy and forget to disconnect the battery. I arced the alternator and blow the main fuse. So add another $18 for the fuse from the dealer. Local auto parts stores did not stock the fuse. Also I have multiple Knipex tools, so I was happy to add this to the collection. Cheers
Bravo on the video and the tips. Same thing, my snap rings and shims were not really correct or good quality, so I reused the old ones. Works like a charm. I have had this job quoted at local shops ranging from $800 to $1200. But each guy, said "if you are at all handy, the parts are about $50, and a good afternoon of work". Let me tell you, this has not been hard labourious work, no big bolts or anything, but it is very finely detailed, precise, and hard to reach, and need the right tools. It can be very frustrating, and I had to walk away before I got too pissed off a few times. BUt overall, very doable for a DIYer and saves you about $1000!
Haha, my experience exactly! It’s really hard to spend $800-$1200 on a car that’s worth just about that amount of money or less, lol. I’m glad you were able to save some money and get this done on your own, great job!
Thanks so much for this video, it told me pretty much everything I needed to know. I started out on a 2008 Civic hoping NOT to have to unbolt the alternator and compressor, but once you get the pulley off the compressor Honda made sure you wouldn't have enough room to get it out (by maybe less than 1/2 inch). In the end doing everything needed to unbolt and reinstall them probably added 60 to 90 minutes but having just gone through it I advise to just follow the video.
Hey, how long for the total job, and are you experienced with tools/cars. Im gona be honest im not good at all with cars, but im really thinking if i should just try to buy a couple tools and try this myself.because i asked an mechanic and he will only swap the whole compressor and not only the clutch, but that would cost 730€.
Great Video! I agree with comments about the snap ring plyers and the green ground wire. I think I fussed around most with the Snap ring portion of the job using a set of Harbor freight snap ring plyers - Not the best but they got it done eventually. One deviation I would suggest would be to leave the Alternator alone. You can easily access the 4, 12MM bolts that hold the Compressor to the engine and once these are removed you can get the pully off no sweat. When purchasing a replacement kit (I got mine on Amazon) read the reviews and look for a kit that has the CORRECT shims - people will make note of that in the comments. You don't need the added inconvenience of having to Gerry rig your own shim (even though that will work as this video demonstrates) It's just easier to get the CORRECT parts up front. Again Nice job with video and thanks for sharing your time/talent!
thank you very much for your excellent video. my 2009 Honda civic was having intermittent failure to cool. sometimes it would work other times no cooling. my local shop checked the coolant and all was normal and full but the system was working the day that they had it so that was as far as they could take it. when the AC was working I could see that the AC compressor clutch was engaged and spinning normally. so I waited until one day the AC would not come on after being turned on and sure enough the compressor clutch was not spinning. I had learned from Eric O at the south main auto channel to reach down with a long screwdriver or prybar and hit the clutch while it was spinning and sure enough after a few whacks the clutch engaged spinning and the car got cool. thus I figured that the electrical wiring to the clutch was ok and a new clutch kit was needed. I ordered one off amazon for 46.00 Honda Civic AC Compressor CLUTCH ASSEMBLY 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 1.8 Liter A/C Brand: Automotive AC, and ordered a pair of the knipex needle nose external snap ring pliers 4611A2. your video was very complete and correct in all aspects of the removal and re-install of the 3 part kit. the old one was super rusted. the part which took the longest to get right was the re-install of the coil and the first snap ring, very important to get it seated with the alignment nub in the divit on the compressor case. sure enough now it all works perfectly and much appreciation for your guidance
I just finished doing this job on my 2011 Civic Coupe and this video and the comments made all the difference. If you're doing this yourself, buy the Knipex 4611A2 snap ring pliers, get a 2 or 3 jaw puller, and definitely buy the factory shim set (38912-PE1-702). Having a dial caliper handy to measure the thickness of the shims to know what you're putting in and a good feeler gauge helped me get the gap right the first time. The only other comment I would make is that my 2011 Civic has an additional sheet metal bracket for the windshield washer fluid reservoir that was located exactly in the way of the pulley. I ended up bending it out of the way and then bending it back after the job was complete. Thanks for uploading this super helpful video!
@@FastFixRUclips one of the other commenters mentioned the shim set. It has four shims which range from about 0.009 to 0.025 inch and allow you to mix and match to get the gap you want. It was well worth the $ to get. The compressor clutch/pulley I purchased didn't include any shims or the snap rings, so It was the right thing to do.
imbok 100% the right move to buy that. As you saw in my video the snap rings included did not fit correctly. If this kit comes with the right snap rings as well as shims, definitely worth it. 👍
your video is the best , it shows us how u put the shims in cause i have no clue what shims are , thks for also showing the bolts to remove the compressor ... 👍
Hey Guys. There is a Honda Service Bulletin out on this issue. (Service bulletin # 10056005-7115). Even if you are beyond the extended warranty of 7 years, it is a step by step procedure for an AC clutch replacement on a Honda CRV. A great complement to this excellent video. It provides all the clearance specs and torque specs for this job.
I'm glad, it's well done, I did just like you did, replaced the megnetic clutch without evacuating the compressor, so i don't need a vacuum machine so do freon refill. The best part is when before I had no idea how to loose the center piece nut, until i found this video how to. Thank you !!
I have a 2008 Honda Civic Si and this video helped a lot! I used a AC clutch for my model but everything else worked out. (For the record I used 2 shims), 3 shims we’re too many and wasn’t spinning correctly. This was a pain in the ass but I finally got it working. Good luck!
I tried to do this job a while ago. After getting all of the stuff out of the way, I was defeated by the stator snap ring. Maybe I'll try again after moving the compressor like you did. It was a lot of work and busted knuckles to get a strike out. Thanks for the tips.
Even so, good on you for attempting. It’s not easy and I almost threw in the towel a time or two. The inner most snap ring is a devil if you don’t have the right pliers. Even then, it isn’t easy. Best of luck if you try again 👍
Great work, thanks! This job went smoothly for me because of this video. I recommend buying a factory shim set for $6 (38912-PE1-702). I used a 3-jaw puller on the pulley.
This shim set was some where in the range of 20 bucks with shipping (14 dollars with 6 bucks shipping) on eBay. I found them on HondaPartsNow.com for 3 bucks and 10 dollar shipping. A little better. www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~shim~set~38912-pe1-702.html
I have this problem on my 2010. If I tap the clutch with a bar. It will engage. I think I'll take the clutch off and clean the rust and check shims and gap. Worth a try. Save alot of work
Great video. Well done! The small outside snap ring in my kit was too thick. I had to use the original. I installed a new serpentine belt during the process. Getting the new belt over the alternator was the hardest part of the job! It baaarely fits. I had to have a helper hold the tensioner. 2008 Civic with 180k.
Great to hear you got it done! And yep, I used the original snap rings too. The ones in the kit did not fit. Completely agree on the belt. I remember it taking a good hour to change mine. Thanks for the comment!
Actually, you do not have to touch the alternator to do this. Leave it alone unless you MUST gain extra clearance. The most difficult part is the pulley removal itself. If you live in a climate where they salt the roads and such, it may be rusted. When you DO get the pulley off, make sure you compare it directly with the replacement. It has to match exact or the belt alignment will be off and it will sling it off in 30 seconds of running. There are variations....check it first. Also, check the compressor operation first. Disconnect the little red power wire and use a test light to make sure it is getting power when you are calling for A/C. You may just need to replace the compressor relay. I've been a professional mechanic for 40 years..... Good, informative video.
Just got the old clutch completely off. Never would have attempted this without your video (and the one by the Canadian guys that it looks like you might have taken some tips from). I ordered the size down of snap ring pliers from the ones you recommended since you said yours had too big of holes. They seemed to work more or less. Getting the pulley off was a major pain in the ass. Never would have been comfortable whacking it so many times with a hammer and pry bar if I hadn't watched a video of it being done that way and working out. I put the lower rear bolt back in while getting the pulley off so the compressor wouldn't move around so much. My stator coil was also rusted on, so had to use the pry bar and hammer on it as well. Will begin re-assembly tomorrow. Hopefully goes well. Honestly the part that feels most intimidating at this point is getting the stupid serpentine belt back on. Not a lot of room to maneuver that thing around.
Wayne Rowcliffe glad the helped! Yes, I’m sure I saw the Canadian guy’s video, but honestly there were no “good” videos out there on this procedure so I thought there was room for improvement. This video is far from perfect, but I’m glad it was able to help you with your repair. Bolting the compressor is an excellent tip and honestly, something that didn’t even occur to me. But I suppose because my pulley came off so easily, it wasn’t enough of a problem to require further thought. Best of luck on reassembly! Hopefully cold air soon. Thanks for the comment.
@@FastFixRUclips Back together and so far so good. Those snap rings are a real pain though. Still not sure that I got them seated all the way. That pulley isn't going anywhere though, so good enough I guess. Also thanks for the tip on the washer for a spacer. Ended up needing the washer plus the original shim. Tried the shims that came in the kit and had the same problem you did with the plate being uneven. Also tightened the clutch plate down onto the pulley without the shims to make sure the pulley was seated evenly, which got rid of a squeaking noise it was making when I'd spin it. Thanks again for the video. No way I would have attempted this without it.
Thanks for the video, saved me at least a $1000 when fixing the air conditioning on my daughter's honda civic. (personally, i would have opened the windows and gone without the air conditioning but she did not want to mess up her hair) diagnostics were not too difficult. connected a car battery directly to the clutch (with the engine not running) and the clutch did not engage. this pointed to a faulty clutch. got the clutch and ring pliers (yes, the 4611A2) from amazon for about $60 total. the job was not difficult but give yourself a day to account for any missteps. i had a pulley puller handy, which made getting the old clutch off easier than hammering it off. good luck.
Excellent to hear! Yes, definitely not a bad idea to do this job on a Friday or Saturday I case it needs an extra day. Good idea on hooking up the battery directly. That will show the problem for sure. Side note: after two+ years with my new clutch installed it’s still going strong, but the actual AC compressor is now showing signs of failure. I’m still happy I replaced he clutch only. Saved $$$ at the time and extended AC use for 2+ years. Thanks for the comment and glad money was saved!
A great tip I've seen on another video about this, is using a small c clamp where you clamp the clutch to the other side so it don't spin when you tighten or loosen the nut. No more screw drivers or pry bars, which are a pain in the ass. First time I did it, I had to use some pliers to grip one of those big round things as I tightened it.
Slightly different on right hand drive civic 2.2ctdi 2009. You can get at the a/c pulley as that wall is not there. However you need to drop the coolant tank. Only 3 bolts. No need to pull it out theres enough flex to move it out the way. Just be careful not to drop dirt in it. Pulley is far more seized on than yours. Spent 4 hours trying to get it off so far. Could have removed the whole unit in that time and put it in a vice. Great video, really helped me thanks
Good info! 4 hours...yikes! Way to stay in it though. Yeah, I got lucky on the pulley. Came off pretty easy. Glad the video helped. Thanks for the comment!
I just finished this job. Thanks for the excellent video. I did end up breaking the thermal protection switch during the process. The outside wires on the wiring harness go through the (normally closed) thermal protection switch and the middle wire goes to the clutch. I was getting an open circuit when testing continuity between the outside pins after the job where I was getting impedance across the same pins before starting the job. I ended up bypassing the thermal protection switch and it now works well. I don't think it's possible to find a switch and the old one is pretty well stuck to the compressor anyway.
My bearings also ground up inside -- did you have a hard time removing the pulley? If so, how did you finally get it off? I've tried using pry bar with 90 deg angle to loosen from the front with no luck. Going the back route now... Edit: Had to hammer the crap out of it, but it did come off!
To get to the screw that holds the electrical wire on the coil, you can bend the metal that holds the wires or use a pair of vice grips to loosen the screw. Also, it would be nice for the creator to remove the link to the pliers used in the video, which are not the right size, as it could be confusing. Thanks. Great video!!!
Bought an 8 piece set of icon snap ring pliers at harbor freight for $69 fit perfect also compared them to my knipex and craftsmanship looked equal. Used the 8mm bolt on the thermo cut off ginsu for a ground.
Well done, you're a good guy for teaching this trick, I agree that is the hard way but the cheapest way saving the hassle of evacuating the system exposing for humidity then recharging, I did it on my 02 CRV in less than 2 hours on the floor jack, will be gravy job doing it for a customer :)
DO NOT DO THIS ON AN 8TH GEN CIVIC SI. There is very little clearance. You cannot reach the middle of the alternator as there is a piece of metal in the way that is holding the windshield fluid reservoir. Just have the refrigerant flushed out and remove the whole compressor. You will save yourself a lot of time and pain. Great video, just wish I knew this before spending waaaay to long hunched over trying to copy.
Oh man! Sorry this didn’t work for your Si…. I know others have asked, but I never knew if it’d work or not. Know we know! Thanks for commenting and relaying the info 👍👍👍
awesome video. Thanks for the advice. I’m going to attempt this on my 07 civic si. I jumped the sensor like you did and the compressor kicked on for about 5 seconds then it won’t come back on unless I shut the car off and restart it. Wonder what I should do next
Interesting. Well if the compressor kicks on, you might just have electrical issues. AC is such a tricky repair…prob why shops just replace the entire system. Debugging them is too much work.
Austen Starnes This is correct. I removed the alternator to better get at the AC mounting bolts, but it was not completely necessary. As you discovered, you can get at them without removing the alternator. Home mechanics preference I suppose. Thanks for the comment and suggestion!
Good to know i tried doing this job without taking the compressor off i couldn't get the first snap ring off I'm gonna try again today and take the compressor off i managed to secure the plate with a wrench to a bolt on the car frame and took the clutch bolt off without power tools
Mo right, it’s a must to loosen the compressor. Almost impossible to get the snap rings otherwise. It only takes a few minutes and will save you hours of frustration. Best of luck!
Great video, good instructions. My young son drives a 2009 Fit/Jazz, and his A/C clutch died and now is noisy (and no AC of course). We live in Scandinavia, so he can do without the AC, but the noise is annoying. Can we dismount anything, to make the noise stop, without having to do the full replacement, etc? Our local Honda shops wants USD 2000 to do the job, which makes no sense with such an old car. Thanks for your help. Kind regards Marcus and Christian
Greetings from America! One of my favorite bands (Ghost) is from Sweden, so anything I can do to help repay your people for the hypnotic Melodie’s I will gladly take on. So, no you don’t have to do the entire job to fix your problem. It sounds like the pulley bearing is going/has gone bad. That’s what’s likely causing the loud noise. So, you’ll need to go as far as removing the pulley and replacing that. You can skip removing the alternator as well, but removing it does give extra room. Another solution (and I’ve never tried this) is to use a shorter belt and simply bypass the AC unit altogether. I no longer have my Honda, so I can’t get a visual on what that looks like, but it’s worth a shot. Please let me know how it goes! Thanks.
Hello. I'm not sure the procedure is exactly the same, but it would be close. I'd imagine the compressor would be the same, however. Either way, these compressors are all put together the same way, so that's a constant. Best of luck!
Did the same job and it work ! Thanks for the video it give me a good guideline on how to proceed . Also I did it without removing the alternator . I had a hard time removing the pulley everything was rust and the main bearing was totaly burned broken . When it goes off a part of the compressor casing broke ( the snap ring part broke with the small inner bearing ) . Sound stupid but the piece of aluminum realign perfectly together so as i was there i decided to bond it with JBweld and it turn out great . When everything is assembled nothing can move , the nut is torqued and maintain the broken parts so the snap ring rest in place ! Saved a 1200$ job and JBweld save me on this 180$ job ( Clutch, JBweld and Body clip kit that come with the tool to remove it )
Wow, sounds like you had a pretty challenging fix. Glad you were able to get it done! And yes, the alternator isn't necessarily something you need to remove. I did to get at the mounting bolts easier, but obviously that step is not required. Thanks for the comment and glad to hear the success story!
I am a lexus auto tech doing this at home and if u dont have those snap ring tools, trust me it is a pain in the ass, not autozone nor oreillys nor walmart nor northern has them, turned a 1hr job into a 3hr +, do urself a favor and get some long thin snap ring pliers that open rings outwards
What pliers did you end up using. Other viewers have mentioned that the recommended knipex pliers are to big to fit into the snap ring holes. I’m doing this job this weekend and want to ensure I have the correct tools. Thanks!
@@scottmason7129 You are correct. The pliers in the video have prongs that are a touch too big to get both prongs into the holes, but they will work. I've searched for different ones with smaller prongs, but I can't find anything. As far as I'm aware, these are as good as it gets. Honestly, having both pair shown in this video is a good idea. The cheap pair work great for the first snap ring because it has small holes, but will not work on the second. Removing the rings isn't too bad with these pliers, but re-installing them is where it gets tricky because you can't fit both prongs into the holes, you'll need to drill out the snap ring holes to fit the prongs or file down the prongs. Builders choice. It sucks, but I know of no alternative. I'm sure Honda has the perfect set built especially for them...
@@omar10wahab Oh I forgot all about this. I started messing with the compressor, and it turns out the whole shaft was wobbling. The belt snapped, and as I was examining it, the alternator was ALSO messed up. I ended up replacing the alternator with a junkyard part and outright replaced the compressor as it seized. I then returned the clutch kit. But, after having the old compressor off the car, it doesn't look like too hard a job. My dad has that car now, he's enjoying working AC ;)
Ehh, not really. If you’re not saving the pulley, give it hell! I could see the air hammer destroying the pulley however and maybe not nudging it off the shaft. Experiment with a few live taps and see what happens. Good luck!
In my experience, the coil/pulley is never bad. I just remove 1 shim, or sand the mounting surface of the clutch a little bit (where the shim is). The gap tolerance between clutch and pulley is very narrow. It's something like 0.35mm to 0.70mm. So I sand the clutch a little, and mount it back to test, until I hear small screeching at idle with a/c NOT engaged. Then I push the a/c button on and off until there is no more screeching noise (to wear the clutch just a bit, so it's very close to the pulley but not touching)!
Interesting! That’s sure something people could try. In my case, I removed the clutch plate and sanded off the rust and corrosion, but it didn’t make a difference. Maybe tightening the gap could have helped, but it seemed dead. Certainly something to try before doing all the work. Thanks for the tip on this!
My ac works fine but the bearings in the pulley seem wore out(loose, and making a bad noise). Would this repair fix that issue or would I need a whole new compressor unit?
If just pulley bearings, replace the pulley and you should be all set. You don’t have to do the entire process. You’d stop after you get the pulley off 👍
I did this and bought the shims and both snap rings from my Honda dealer, they are available because the ones that come with the Amazon kits just don't fit well.
I should have watched your video before giving my car in garage. I had similar problem with my air-conditioning system. It was not turning on. Mechanic said ac radiator/condenser is broken and told expensive repair. I agreed somehow to replace but when he replaced condenser still AC was not working and he found out same problem as you mentioned with clutches. I think my car condenser was still fine and i just loose the money. Thanks for your video
🤣😂🤣 that is so true! It’s not an easy fix and I totally hear you. Unfortunately, the value of these cars isn’t much past the cost of having a shop fix it, so a new car does make sense in that way! Thanks for the comment 👍
If the outer clutch plate is turning (when power to the clutch) does this mean the compressor itself MUST also be rotating? Can the outer plate rotate with the pulley and still NOT engage the compressor itself? I just replaced the expansion valve on my 2005 CRV (a miserable job) and still no cool - no pressure buildup on high side. Could it be that the compressor itself is not turning although the clutch visually appears to be engaging? I'd like to work on what the real problem is. Thanks.
Hello Kelly. This is a head scratcher... please keep in mind that I’m not an expert in the detailed functionality of AC systems...just want to declare that. However, the hypothesis you’ve postulated does not seem likely to me. There would have to be a lot of broken parts for the compressor to not spin internally when the clutch is engaged. Is it possible? I suppose so, but I would argue that it would be making a bunch of noise and you’d know something like that was wrong, but I guess it’s possible. If the clutch is engaging yet you don’t have cold air, this signals low refrigerant or a bad expansion valve which you replaced. Did you make sure to run a pump on the system to vacuum out the moisture before charging the system? How many miles on the car? And just to state the obvious...make sure the dial is on the coldest level possible and the fans are set on high. It also helps to drive the car with the AC cranked to get the coldest air. I do assume you know these things, but sometimes people don’t and I have to make sure. Thanks for your question!
I did this three summers ago using a cheap eBay clutch. It's still going strong. It replaced a clutch on a new compressor that was installed just a few years prior. So apparently the eBay cheapo clutches are just as good as the clutches included on new dealer installed compressors.
That’s good info to know. I haven’t heard of anyone having issues with the “cheap” replacement clutches and hopefully that holds true. Thanks for the comment!
@@FastFixRUclips yes, and the car is winter driven in the horrible salted road conditions for three months a year, and the compressor is not well protected, so all in all pretty good.
5 years later and the ebay ac clutch is now rattling, one of the small rubber bushings disintegrated. It still works but the rattling is disconcerting. I ordered another ebay clutch. They've gone down in price since I got the first.
I just finished replacing the old clutch. It turned out that all the rubber bushings on the clutch hub were disintegrated. That caused vibration that was the main source of noise (and occasional clanging sound). The bearing was dry and noisy too. The magnetic coil was still good. The new one is installed and the AC is now quiet and continues to work after the second in place clutch replacement.
Any idea how the pulley could be off center from the rest of the pulleys after install? I used this guide one my 2010 civic SI and nearly everything was the same. It worked great and we took it for a test drive afterward just fine. The next morning my wife went to start it and heard a noise. I check it and the serpentine belt shredded off one groove. I took it off and looked down the plane of the pulleys and the A/C pulley is off by 1 groove. I can't see a way to move it over. Other than this it seemed to work really well.
Hello. Is the pulley off one groove to the inside (closest to the compressor) or the outside? Also, is it possible the belt was in poor condition to start and coinsedently shredded after the repair? I don’t think there is any adjustability on the compressor mounting locations which would enable you to manipulate the unit to line up, but maybe check that. Also, I’ve heard from others that the Si parts are different than the non-si parts. Double check to see if you got the Si stuff. I’m not aware of the differences, but from what I’ve read in the comments, there are indeed differences. Maybe to confirm the misalignment take a straight edge and check the pulley against others. Looks can be deceiving. Please let me know what you find out.
@@FastFixRUclips It's off to the outside so that rules out me not pushing on the pulley far enough. I tried loosening the bolts again but there's no wiggle room to move the compressor over either. Having the wrong parts is the conclusion I've come to also because I can't find anything else that should be wrong with how it was installed. The kit I bought from a reputable seller on Ebay said it was compatible with the SI but I've just finished messaging the seller with a picture of the issue and my compressors label to see if they can narrow down a compatibility issue or install error. I do believe it was an older belt too so it could be possible taking it off for the install damaged it to cause the break. If the seller doesn't see any issue then ill just try the new belt and hope I'm seeing it wrong. Thanks for the quick reply and the awesome video. I could not have attempted this fun project without your help.
@@natedogjon sure thing, it’s no problem. I figure if I put videos out like this, I should also answer questions as no video is perfect and questions are gonna happen. It does sound like a parts issue to me…I’d say the seller is not likely to give you good information or tell you the part is for non-Si models…that would put the seller on the hook for a return and in my experience, they’re usually going to pass the buck to avoid a return. Of course I could be wrong and they may indeed fess up to listing the part incorrectly. Can you link the part in a response to this post? I’m curious. Thanks.
Hey so I'm currently doing the same job but on a 07 crv, by the looks of things the compressor is identical. Only problem I'm facing is the last c thing is stuck. I got the smaller ring pliers u linked in description but their tips actually broke off. Any ideas on how to loosen the c ring? Great guide by the way, best I've seen on this repair.
Hello. That’s unfortunate…id say maybe try a punch and hammer to knock it loose. Just tap around the ring if you can. Sometimes the impact will knock it loose. An air hammer would probably be to severe. It might be slightly rusted to the housing or just on super tight. Either way, you’ll need new snap ring pliers. If they broke, i bet Amazon will replace. Worth a shot anyway. Sorry, bad situation. If you can’t get the ring loose, the compressor would likely need to be replaced or removed for better access to the snap ring. Hope this helps. Thanks for the comment👍
No. So I ended up taking out the compressor completely and I still couldn't get c ring out. Tried penetrating oil, knocking and hammering it. I'll be replacing entire compressor. Just bad luck I guess cause I couldn't find a single person with the same issue in all the places I looked.
Great video! Just did this on a 2009 civic and everything seems to be working but I'm hearing a very slight kind of hissing (or maybe metal scraping?) noise when I accelerate. Any idea what it could be? I used the OEM shims for the clutch but I'm going to double check the gap.
Hey there. Yes, check the gap. That’s what I suspect your problem is. Also, a telling sign that the gap isn’t correct will be small metal pieces near the clutch assembly from the grinding metal. Also, make sure the clutch isn’t wobbling. To do then, check the gap at 45 degree increments all the way around the clutch. Beat of luck!
@@FastFixRUclips thanks for the reply. My issue is that the stator shifted and pulled the red wire out of the connector. How can I make sure the stator stays in place without rotating? Edit: I had to disassemble and tighten up the snap ring on the stator. Seems perfect now. Thanks again for your help. Couldn't have done it without this video!
Great video! I replaced my clutch, turned ac on and clutch was working, turned off & on a couple times to see it working and then after holding the rpms around 2K it started to feel like it was cooling and at that point the new clutch quit? Checked everything over even fuse/relay but still no luck. Any thoughts on this or just bad luck on a new clutch actually failing?
Hello. Sorry for the late reply. #vegas. Anyway, yes you may have gotten unlucky with the new clutch being a factory defect. But before you replace it, try adjusting the shims. I’d suggest removing a shim or two and see if that helps keep the clutch engaged. It might be too far from the coil and is losing it’s bite in the upper rpm range. Feel free to update this thread. Best of luck.
@@FastFixRUclips thanks for getting back with me. adjusted shims and clutch is working! That’s the good news. My bad news is still blowing hot air and my pressure is way in the red zone, looks like I have more than a clutch problem. Lol
Oh bummer…I’m no AC expert, but you may just have too much refrigerant in the system. Due to the complexity of AC systems, I recommend a shop for this sort of problem. Replacing the clutch is one thing, but figuring out other problems related to pressures are another. Best of luck!
Great video...thanks. My 2008 civic is blowing cold air for awhile, then it blows warm air, then cold again...etc. Was this the issue you were having or did you air quit altogether.
kev hed my air quit altogether due to the malfunctioning clutch. The refrigerant levels were correct, so after checking fuses, etc, the clutch was left as the culprit. AC can be tricky to diagnose, but check the most common failures first. Fuses & refrigerant levels are a good place to start. In your case, it sounds like your AC fans are not engaging, so make sure those are on when your AC is on. The condenser needs adequate air passing through it to aid in cooking the charge. A simple test would be to drive the car at speed and see if the air is cold. Then see if the air is cold at idle. If air is warm at idle, it’s probably the fans. Or, you could just observe the fans when the AC is on and verify that they’re also on. Checking the refrigerant level is always a good idea too. I’m not a mechanic, so just a disclaimer there. Best of luck in any case!
Very detailed. What I'm not clear on is how did the condenser need to be changed but you changed the magnetic clutch. Does that mean that the condenser was not actually bad and may have been misdiagnosed?
C w good question. After watching again, I see why you’re asking that. So, what I was trying to say is that a shop will tell you the compressor will need changed to remedy the problem. I have yet to come across a shop that will offer to replace only the clutch. I’m sure some shops do, but the majority will replace the entire unit so they’re sure the problem is fixed. It was my opinion that the clutch was bad and not the compressor, hence the reason for the video. I was not 100% certain of this, but this is a common failure of the AC system on Honda’s so I thought it a smart gamble. If that doesn’t make sense, let me know. Thanks for the question!
@@FastFixRUclips Makes perfect sense. You changed the part because it's way cheaper than the dealers would have in hopes it fix it, and it did. That's a good fix though because I cannot get anyone to quote me less than a 1000 to fix this ac plus 174 to diagnose the problem. Thank you. I will try that see if I have the same luck😃
This is probably a stupid question, but is it really necessary to replace the whole pulley if the clutch material is worn? Isn't the clutch material on the black cover, and wouldn't replacing only that still work?
Hello. Not a stupid question at all! Absolutely try cleaning up the clutch plate (remove rust, dust and road grime) and see if that solves the problem. It certainly can fix the issue, but a lot of the time the stator goes bad and left with no other recourse except to replace. Thanks for the good question 👍
Cool video! This model seems easier to work on vs my son’s 2006 Civic Si. The compressor sits behind the body frame and it’s a bear to reach the nut and snap rings . I’ll probably end up removing the entire compressor from the top and repair the clutch on a bench 🤔 Any advice and suggestions will be appreciated.
El Gato Gordo totally possible the si model is a bit different. Unfortunately you’ll need to evacuate the AC system then recharge it if you’re removing the compressor. Honestly, if you’re going that route, check prices on new or rebuilt compressors. The higher price might be worth the hassle of replacing the clutch system. Best of luck!
Hello. That will enable you to lower the engine, but that probably won’t solve the interference issue. If you were able to move the engine back a bit, that would help you the most. I don’t think lowering the engine will help, but I haven’t heard of anyone trying that, so it’s possible. I’d just say, probably not gonna work. If you do try, please update this thread. Thanks! Best of luck 👍
Hello. You may just enough freon to get the clutch to engage, but not quite enough to adequately cool the car. With AC, it’s very hard to diagnose problems without access to the car, so if all things look normal, prob best to take it to a shop.
I have a 2007 civic that blows cold for about 10 minutes then goes to warm.... (does not come back unless sits for sometime). The clutch stops and does not come back on. We have replaced the relay, refrigerant level is fine, and all electrical seems fine. I have even replaced the control panel inside (per another video saw on here). Do you think the clutch can cause this problem - cold for temporary time then switching to warm?
Hello. In short yes. In length: It could be the case that you have a weak magnet or the clutch plate is corroded and causing the AC to disengage. Do your AC fans kick on and stay on? Some people have had issues with the AC fans not turning on which creates warm AC conditions. I'd say a weak magnet or corroded clutch plate could be your issue if there's no other indications of failures anywhere else in the system. Overall, It sounds like you've replaced or checked the other likely causes, so it's entirely possible the clutch needs to be replaced next.
@@riverrollskatecenter5734 Interesting... I'm not an AC expert by any definition, but it seems to me like you've troubleshot every other likely cause of your problem and found that everything is in working order. Because the AC clutch is a common failing point in the AC system and one of the few remaining potential causes of your problem, I would surmise that it is more likely the gremlin in the system. Best of luck. Please let me know how things shake out.
Hi Fast Fix, My daughter's 2013 Honda Civic Hybrid was making a clak clak noise when she started it and I asked her if I could take a look at it to see what was causing the noise. I thought it was the black plastic covers covering the oil pan etc. so I tightened them and nope didn't solve problem. I checked for DTS codes and found B2992 Thermal protector shorted or bad... found the thermal protector to be on the air compressor clutch. Sure enough when I pressed the A/C button in the car on and the clutch engaged the noise was worse. So I stared at the air compressor for 2 weeks and it didn't fix itself. So I thought I better do something different. I started praying and I told God "if you want me to jump in and fix it please send me information that will make sense and give me the confidence and understanding I will need." I still didn't know if it was something he wanted me to tackle but then I found your video and it looks doable for me. The only thing different is the hybrid system but I believe I just need to remove the backseat and turn off the hybrid switch before attempting to do anything. Also disconnect the 12v battery negative cable. Just in case anything is shorting to the body. Don't want to get electrocuted. So thanks to you I'm at 90% instead of -100% sure I can do it. I have all the tools and I do have a car lift so it will definitely make it easier for me. Thank you for your video. You are answered prayer. Times are hard and I'm sure she doesn't have $2-3k for a new compressor and labor it will cost her to get it repaired. God bless you and your family.
Hello. Glad to hear this video has helped you. I assume you’re replacing the thermal connector and not the entire compressor, correct? Or have you been advised to replace the entire compressor?
Thanks for the tip on the shims, what size washer did you buy? I’m running into the same problem with the clutch face not being parallel because of the shims, Also I had to use a slide hammer with the hook to get my pulley off it was rusted to the shaft of the compressor.
Yep, I though someone else would have a similar issue. The shims are junk and do not fit. I don’t know what the exact measurements on the washer were. Take one of the original shims into the hardware store and find the best match. As far as width goes, it was a standard washer width...whatever that may be. Hope this helps.
I'm soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo glad my compressor is topside on the engine.
Anyone else have problems with the snap ring being too thick? What was the replacement if you screwed up the original for the pulley? Home Depot carries an inch and a quarter internal snap rings, are those the right size?
Hello. Somewhere in the comments are the proper snap ring dimensions. There’s a “rebuild/replacement” kit that has all the correct pieces, including the snap rings. I wish I could tell you where to look or at least a close time frame, but alas it’s buried…. If anything, bring the old snap ring to the store and try matching it up. Or measure the old one. Best of luck!
Im not sure if you covered it in the video but do you have to take all the 4 bolts completely off the compressor, or is it enough if you just loosen them alot
@@FastFixRUclips allright, whats your guess/bet. My ac clutch engages only for a couple of minutes for example if the car has sat all night. When it engages i instantly get cool air, but ofc when it doesnt engage anymore cool air stops. I live in Europe Finland. My honda civic is 2008 with 240000km on it, maybe i could get away with just taking the clutch pad and cleaning it, what you think 🤔
Great video! You probably saved me hours time and headaches! I'm about to do this job myself. Question, any recommendation on where to purchase the clutch? I went to an O'Reilly's and they didn't have the clutch for sale, just the compressor
So how did you know if the air compressor was still good? I have a 2008 Honda Civic and the clutch never engages to send cool air into the car. Recently I started hearing noises coming from the AC pulley that you replace in this video. I'd like to replace the pulley like you did but if the air compressor is bad then that would be a waste obviously.
It was possible the compressor was bad, but in most cases it’s just the stator that craps out. I did a lot of research prior to doing this fix and all of it pointed to the stator being the problem. Plus, I had a family member who had the same issue and a new stator fixed it. You can also check the pressure of your AC system and see if it’s low. If the pressure is normal and assuming you don’t have electrical issues, you can bet its likely the stator. The compressor would kick on otherwise. If you’re hearing noise in the pulley and the AC just quit working, the refrigerant pressure is normal, changing the stator is the way to go. I’m sure there’s situations where the compressor is also bad, but those cases are a small percentage. Best of luck!
@@FastFixRUclips I was able to replace my Compressor Clutch Coil Assembly thanks to your video. The AC pulley bearings were definitely bad and now the noise is gone. Unfortunately the clutch won't engage to push cold air through the vents. My guess it is the compressor but at least I fixed the pulley issue.
I watched your how-to and tried to follow it on my 2006 civic si. However, when I got it back together the coil rattled and spun inside the pulley. The first time it sheared off the wires and wrapped them around the pulley. I disassembled and checked the coil snap ring and it looked to be secure. But after two more assemblies and tear downs it still rattles and spins. Close inspection shows there to be a nub on the back of the coil that engages in the compressor. If the snap ring was tight that should prevent it from spinning but it doesn't. Suggestions?
Hello. Shoot, sounds like a loose snap ring to me. There was another person in the comments who had the same problem. He tightened/adjusted the snap ring and the coil stayed in place. If you’ve taken it apart two times and closely inspected it, make sure your snap ring isn’t worn and that it’s the proper thickness. I unfortunately don’t know what thickness it should be. Is it possible you’re using the incorrect snap ring? Sorry to hear of the troubles! Feel free to respond with anything you get figured out.
@@FastFixRUclips I tried two more times today and had to give up on the snap rings. I tried both the old one and the new one. The old one has an inner taper and I made sure that it was facing outward (that is what the manual for my Odyssey compressor says. I know it is different but assume the snap ring works similarly.). It is possible that there is some corrosion in the ring groove. I tried scraping it but with no luck. As soon as I got the ring on and wiggled the coil it popped off. At this point drastic measures were needed. I used JBweld to glue the coil in place on the compressor. It seemed pretty tight when I put the pulley back on but I'm giving it 24 hours to cure before testing. We'll see tomorrow. Thanks for your reply.
Brian Cartier wow, sounds like you had a raw deal wirh this whole experience. If the snap ring is popping off after you install it, something is wrong. Is the replacement coil the same depth as the original? I’d definitely measure and be sure you have the correct part IF your JB weld fix doesn’t hold. Sorry to hear of the troubles! Hope it all works out. Feel free to update the thread!
@@FastFixRUclips The problem occurred with the new as well as old coils. I imagine if I pulled the compressor it would have been much easier, but, like you, I did not want to discharge the lines. We just did a test drive and the AC works great. Fingers crossed that the JB weld won't break for a year or two. Thanks for your great video. It did help me a lot.
Brian Cartier that’s awesome! You had a strange situation, but seems like you found a solution for the next year or so. Hopefully! Never underestimate the JB Weld. Thanks for updating the thread. It might help someone out who runs into the same problem. 👍
my pulley is locked up and the belt is rubbing/burning/smoking as it goes across it. It does not spin freely. Is there any way to just permanently disengage the clutch? Its a 2001 honda Civic, i really dont need the AC. Just need the pulley to spin freely.
Riki Patel Riki Patel unfortunately what you’re describing doesn’t sound like a clutch issue at all. It sounds like a bad bearing in the pulley itself. This can only be fixed my removing the pulley and replacing it. I would check for any obstructions that might be prohibiting the pulley from spinning. Maybe there’s a rock or road debris that got lodged in a bad spot. If you don’t find anything, remove the belt and try to manually spin the pulley. If you’re not able to spin the pulley or if it spins, but does not spin freely, you’re pulley bearing is shot. The only way to fix that is with a new pulley which essentially means doing the job you see me doing. I’d say you’re running on borrowed time with a seizes pulley. The friction and subsequent heat caused from the belt rubbing will eventually break the belt. Has the belt been changed recently? If so, make sure the correct size was used. Otherwise, I’d check and see if there is a way to use a shorter belt and bypass the AC unit altogether. That would be the cheapest and simplest option. Sorry to give bad news man. Best of luck.
Hey my 2010 Civic suddenly stopped blowing cold air. Relay's fine, I believe the R134 levels are OK, thermal sensor is closed. When I engage AC, I get +14v at the red wire between the two black ones on the harness that's attached to the alternator, so it is trying to engage the compressor. I'm 90% sure this is the issue. How much time did this take? Also, would it be easier to notch the frame support to not have to unbolt the compressor from the housing?
Hello. It sounds like you’ve got the same issues as me as you said in your comment. If everything else checks out, it’s probably the stator/clutch assembly. With filming, it took 6-7 hours. Without filming I bet I could do it in 3-4. I’ve got a decent amount of mechanical experience and most of the right tools of the trade. If you’re a beginner, prepare for double the time. As far as notching the frame support: no, don’t do that. It’s not worth compromising the structural support. If you have the right tools and patience, you can do this job. Best of luck!
@@FastFixRUclips Oh I swap engines in a few hours (RWD models from the 80s lol), and I have replaced the compressors outright on a few of my cars before, just not with this level of depth. I'll need to see if my friend has some of those o/snap ring pliers, he's got more stuff than me, otherwise I have all I need (except the part). Thanks!
The Kombinator oh I gotcha. I usually assume most have limited mechanical experience and limited access to tools (as is usually the case). It sounds like you’ve got plenty of experience. I have zero doubt you can do this repair ability wise. Sounds like you just need the right pliers. Best of luck! P.S. the only motors I’ve swapped are RWD too! 👍
For anyone looking for ring pliers, the 4611A2 would be just the right size with a 1.8mm tip.
The one linked in the video (4611A3 ) has a 2.3mm tip, which as the author mentioned, are a touch too big.
Thanks for this information!
A good ppiopuoipuuuöö P.O.
I bought those, but I cannot get them to fit, the pliers are too thick just above the pins. The ones the author uses, where you can adjust the length of the pin part, may be the ones I need, like Channel Lock 926 or equivalent.
Ok will try 4611a2 (1.8mm tip) on a 08 civic lx 4 dr
Indeed. They are too big. Wish I had seen this comment BEFORE I ordered this size. Must have been asleep.
Fantastic video, I am an elderly DYI lady and really appreciated the step by step instructions. I have to admit I watched other videos and this was by far the best! Thank you so much and keep up the good work.
You are very welcome! Kudos on getting the job done. It’s great to hear success stories like yours. It’s not every day I hear an elderly lady tackling a job like this. Plenty of grown men have called it quits with this repair. You’re a modern day Rosie if you don’t mind me saying so. Cheers! 💪
@@FastFixRUclips Women often have more patience than we do. 😏
When you get angry, walk away and take a break. You’ll often find that you take a different approach to the job when you return.
3 years later and this video is still coming in handy. Just used this guide to change out the AC Clutch on my 2008 Civic LX Coupe. Like a poster below, my car had a tab that stuck out for the washer reservoir mount that made it a bit more difficult. Bending this tab out of the way helped. It also appeared you were able to go almost straight in to tighten the nut on the clutch. I had to use a swivel socket adapter as the metal bulkhead on my car seemed to stick out farther than it appears on your video. Only other hitch I had was getting the new pulley lined up straight to tap it into place. I ended up holding the compressor at the right angle and my wife tapped the pulley on using a 2x4 to protect it's surface.
Your tip for the stainless steel washer was spot on. Using the stock shim, the clutch rubbed on the pulley. Quick trip to Lowes to purchase a pack of 3 washers. Using one (as you did), worked perfectly. I did not have the correct size feeler gauges but had one that was a bit too thick. It would not quite fit so I knew I was close.
AC works perfectly now. Many thanks for putting this video together.
Fantastic! Nice work on this. I sincerely appreciate the comment. 👍
do you remember what size washer you used?
Washer size I used was the thinnest M10 I could find at Lowe's. Just read your comment and watched this video, helped my friend save a lot of money and stay cool this summer. Thank you so much
Thanks for the video. I got the Honda OEM clutch shim set (part no 38912-pe1-702). It has 5 shims of different thickness so you can dial on the air gap perfectly. 2007 civic with 160k miles and the AC is back! Took about 6 hours and did a new serpentine belt on reassembly.
Nice! Perfect job 👍
I found this video to be the best at showing what I needed to do. Long story short I discovered my clutch coil was burnt out and my pulley bearing was worn out. I bought a clutch kit online, some snap ring pliers and feeler gauges locally, and proceeded as shown in the video. Except, I did not remove alternator and (very fortunately) had the old pulley come off by hand. Big $$$ saved for me, big thanks to you for making the detailed video.
Glad this video helped! Always good to hear another success story. Correct, removing the alternator isn’t necessary. It’s crazy that the pulley came off by hand. That’s the first time I’ve heard of it working out so well. Thanks for the comment 👍
NOTE ON WASHER: I just ran to Lowe's and used a washer from the hardware section. It provided a significantly larger gap than recommended but it works just the same.
Thanks for the video, saved me over a thousand dollars from going to the Honda Dealership
Nice! And yeah, the “standard” stainless washers from the hardware stores seem to do the trick for those not wanting to get the shim kit from Honda. Mine still works great. Glad to hear your repair was a success! Thanks for the comment 👍
Excellent video. I watched it before replacing clutch. I managed to remove all four bolts of AC without removing aternator. Strongly recommend long nose snap ring pliers and pulley puller.
Glad it helped! And heck yeah, nice work!
Thank you for your video. I just did the same job on my Civic and your video made the job possible. I have A/C now and I don't think I would have attempted this repair without your tips
Dino AMF great to hear! I appreciate the comment and appreciation. Glad you’re able to stay cool!
By the way, I found long thin snap ring plyers at Home Depot for $10. Husky brand. They did the trick but but it was the hardest part of the job.
@@dinoamf5866 Good find! I checked every hardware store in my area (Home Depot included) and came up with nothing, so Amazon.
It took a few afternoons but I got mine swapped out using your guide. I tried to use my nice set of snap ring pliers with interchangeable tips but they wouldn't even fit inside the coil. Then I tried a cheap set of snap ring pliers and the hinge broke. So I gave in and ordered the 1.8mm snap ring pliers and they worked great. The tips on the Knipex ones are angled outward unlike my other two sets and that made all of the difference. I didn't need to remove the alternator or unbolt the compressor. Instead I used the jack to push the engine to the left side of the car about half an inch and that gave enough clearance to remove the pulley. I also couldn't get the screw out for the ground wire so I spliced it instead.
James Patrick Interesting! I hadn’t thought of moving the engine like that. Good idea! Yes, the Knipex pliers are a must. Just impossible with out them. Glad the video helped! Thanks for the comment and pro tip 👍
How did you move the motor to the left. Did you have to loose motor mounts?
I wasn't able to remove compressor bolts to give clearance of pulley removal due to the shafts. Moving the engine did solve the problem. Thanks, cheers!
@@aaronw816 I used a pry bar, lol.
@@aaronw816 I did not have to loosen the motor mounts. I held the jack between the car frame and the engine and turned the jack's screw by hand. There is enough play in the motor mounts to provide clearance to get the pulley out. Just be aware that if your motor mounts are dry rotted then doing this might crack the rubber.
I did this with help from this video. The recommended pliers are to large for the holes in snap ring, but it popped the snap ring off by placing the ends of the pliers inside the ring and applying outward pressure until it finally sprung off. The bushings do not work as mentioned. I used a copper bushing from Auto Parts Store which worked perfect. Took me about 10 hours, and yes it was hard. Don't think I could have done it without the video. Thanks Man.
tim lovejoy You are welcome! And yes, I had the same issue with the pliers which I tried to convey accurately, but I think I could’ve been more clear. Thanks for the call out there. 10hrs, yeah I completely believe it. This fix can be nasty. Glad you got it done!
07 Si owner that just did this. Not an easy task. You don't need to move the alternator at all to loosen the compressor bolts so long as you have swivel socket tips, and the long nose snap pliers are a must. Seriously. Get someone to help you hold the compressor/keep it twisted so you can work on it because we have a lot less clearance than the other civics. Used the OEM shim and new snap rings. $40 clutch kit and 5 or so hours.
That all being said, if you can get a shop to just vacuum the system and take out the compressor to replace the clutch for cheap, go that route because they can easily have it done in half the time that way.
Fantastic video thank you!
Hello. Hey, good to hear another success story! Thanks for including the tips you mentioned, that's awesome. Cheers to a job well done!
This video is wonderful!! Gives you all the information and guidance needed to complete this job.. was able to knock it out in 4hrs thanks to you. I bought the assembly from your link and anyone thinking of doing this it was only $40. Really appreciate you taking the time and energy to make this video.. thanks brother !
You are welcome good sir! I appreciate the comment 👍 glad this helped!
Great video, definitely took the anxiety out of doing the job, especially sense it was not my car and on a limited time. But here are some very important points that may have been overlooked and can save everyone time:
1) When putting the stator on, you must align it with the bubble protrusion on the back of the stator to one of two holes on the AC compressor. There is one at 10 o'clock and one at 7 o'clock. I aligned mine to the 10 o'clock so that the attached wires can be easily routed to the screwed holder on the AC connector. If you miss this step, the stator will not be flushed and it will not be aligned properly. Ask me how I know?
2) While mounting the pulley, you should mount the AC compressor with at least one bolt (on top) to hold the compressor in place. This allows the pulley to be pushed in straight. I used a brake pad separator to gently push in the pulley using the car compartment frame to push against. Once the pulley is in, then wacking it with a wooden board, it goes in straight back. With the stock snap rings, you need the 1.8mm tip Snap Ring Pliers 4611A3. Definitely be prepared to buy shim washers as the packaged shims and the original shims will not work perfectly. You really don't need to take out the alternator. I didn't and had no issues. Thanks again Fast Fix.
Robert Orellana thanks Robert! Always happy to read comments like this. I don’t remember the protrusions on the back of the coil, so either I got lucky or forgot to mention it. Thanks for calling that out! Yes, 100% on the 1.8 pliers you mentioned and the shim kit. My use of a washer was a desperation fix, but it worked out perfectly. Glad this video helped you and thanks again for taking the time to add these helpful tips. Much appreciated! 🤙
Thanks for making this video! I replaced the ac clutch on a 2011 civic lx with 170k miles. I did not remove the alternator but instead I lifted the car and worked from the bottom. I got those snap ring pliers another commenter suggested and it worked perfectly for the inner snap ring. My mistake was that I did not set the inside snap ring securely, and after running for a day the pulley dragged the coil and ripped the electrical cord out. I had to order another clutch. Luckily I was able to securely place the snap ring in, and now the ac works. Also I just used the old shims. All and all, this video was extremely helpful.
Hello. Thanks for sharing your success story! I love hearing these! You provided good advice and a quality control point worth mentioning. Thanks! Glad this helped. Keep on keeping on 🤙
This video was useful to me - thanks. The same happened to my Honda CRV. The AC compressor is practically in the same location.
I too needed to change the compressor bearing/pulley and I did it from the same angle you did.
At first I tried to get to it from the front but I could twist the compressor around enough. So I was able to take off the clutch pulley using a pulley wheel puller quite easily. (I left all the AC fluid hoses attached.)
A useful tip could be that when bolting the compressor back in place, on my compressor there was a little lip of some kind at the top of the compressor nearest the engine block, which helped you align the compressor back into position to allow one to replace the four bolts holding the compressor in place.
I left the original coil in place and changed the fried relay in the engine. Bingo, all working.
Bobby Silver glad you were able to get it all fixed up and that this video helped. Thanks for the helpful tip on the compressor!
Which puller did you use? I'm trying to do my wife's CRV right now and there's no way I can get the puller I got from Autozone on.
What year was your crv? I have a 2004 crv and I’m planning on attempting this soon
I appreciate the vid!! A $57 repair for the clutch assembly and ring pliers to have AC again feels nice. Changing the Clutch assembly went flawlessly with the right tools and your vid when I got confused. Thanks again!
Fantastic! The right tools make all the difference. That and a good set of instructions. Thanks for the comment 🤙
Just wanted to thank you for your video. Really helped me replace my clutch coil on my 2011 Honda accord. The snap rings were a PAIN to get remove and replace. Emphasize on getting good snap ring pliers.
Yes, good snap ring pliers are a must. Glad the video helped you. It’s always nice to hear another success story. Thanks for sharing!
I have a slightly older Civic, 1994, with the AC compressor mounted to the left of the crank pulley. Just about everything still applied and this video was very helpful. Thanks!
Fantastic! Thanks for that info and glad this video helped 👍
Awesome! Thank you for making this video! I was able to change mine out in 4 hours or so, and now I have AC again! It was great to have all the tools and parts on hand before I started. The hardest part for me was the snap rings and keeping the compressor from moving. The only time I needed a second pair of hands was when driving the new pulley on. Thanks again!
You’re welcome! Yes, the snap rings are definitely the most challenging part. Glad you got it done in seemingly record time 👍
Thanks for the video. You just saved me $2047.00. The dealer wanted $2180.00. They wanted to replaced the whole system. I paid $90 for the clutch and $25 for the snap-ring pliers. I was dummy and forget to disconnect the battery. I arced the alternator and blow the main fuse. So add another $18 for the fuse from the dealer. Local auto parts stores did not stock the fuse. Also I have multiple Knipex tools, so I was happy to add this to the collection. Cheers
Nice! Glad this helped you! Great to hear these stories. 👍👍👍
Do you have to disconnect the negative when doing this job?
Bravo on the video and the tips. Same thing, my snap rings and shims were not really correct or good quality, so I reused the old ones. Works like a charm. I have had this job quoted at local shops ranging from $800 to $1200. But each guy, said "if you are at all handy, the parts are about $50, and a good afternoon of work". Let me tell you, this has not been hard labourious work, no big bolts or anything, but it is very finely detailed, precise, and hard to reach, and need the right tools. It can be very frustrating, and I had to walk away before I got too pissed off a few times. BUt overall, very doable for a DIYer and saves you about $1000!
Haha, my experience exactly! It’s really hard to spend $800-$1200 on a car that’s worth just about that amount of money or less, lol. I’m glad you were able to save some money and get this done on your own, great job!
Thanks so much for this video, it told me pretty much everything I needed to know. I started out on a 2008 Civic hoping NOT to have to unbolt the alternator and compressor, but once you get the pulley off the compressor Honda made sure you wouldn't have enough room to get it out (by maybe less than 1/2 inch). In the end doing everything needed to unbolt and reinstall them probably added 60 to 90 minutes but having just gone through it I advise to just follow the video.
Hey, how long for the total job, and are you experienced with tools/cars. Im gona be honest im not good at all with cars, but im really thinking if i should just try to buy a couple tools and try this myself.because i asked an mechanic and he will only swap the whole compressor and not only the clutch, but that would cost 730€.
You’re welcome! Glad you got it sorted out 👍
Great Video! I agree with comments about the snap ring plyers and the green ground wire. I think I fussed around most with the Snap ring portion of the job using a set of Harbor freight snap ring plyers - Not the best but they got it done eventually. One deviation I would suggest would be to leave the Alternator alone. You can easily access the 4, 12MM bolts that hold the Compressor to the engine and once these are removed you can get the pully off no sweat. When purchasing a replacement kit (I got mine on Amazon) read the reviews and look for a kit that has the CORRECT shims - people will make note of that in the comments. You don't need the added inconvenience of having to Gerry rig your own shim (even though that will work as this video demonstrates) It's just easier to get the CORRECT parts up front.
Again Nice job with video and thanks for sharing your time/talent!
thank you very much for your excellent video. my 2009 Honda civic was having intermittent failure to cool. sometimes it would work other times no cooling. my local shop checked the coolant and all was normal and full but the system was working the day that they had it so that was as far as they could take it. when the AC was working I could see that the AC compressor clutch was engaged and spinning normally. so I waited until one day the AC would not come on after being turned on and sure enough the compressor clutch was not spinning. I had learned from Eric O at the south main auto channel to reach down with a long screwdriver or prybar and hit the clutch while it was spinning and sure enough after a few whacks the clutch engaged spinning and the car got cool. thus I figured that the electrical wiring to the clutch was ok and a new clutch kit was needed. I ordered one off amazon for 46.00 Honda Civic AC Compressor CLUTCH ASSEMBLY 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 1.8 Liter A/C Brand: Automotive AC, and ordered a pair of the knipex needle nose external snap ring pliers 4611A2. your video was very complete and correct in all aspects of the removal and re-install of the 3 part kit. the old one was super rusted. the part which took the longest to get right was the re-install of the coil and the first snap ring, very important to get it seated with the alignment nub in the divit on the compressor case. sure enough now it all works perfectly and much appreciation for your guidance
I love reading comments like this! Congrats on a job well done and I appreciate the kind words. 👍👍👍
Thank you!!! The issue with the washers was incredibly useful, very informational video. I appreciate you being so detailed.
You’re welcome! Glad this was helpful. Thanks for the comment!
I really admire the way you illustrated and explained. keep up the good work.
Thank you! I appreciate the nice comment 👍
I just finished doing this job on my 2011 Civic Coupe and this video and the comments made all the difference. If you're doing this yourself, buy the Knipex 4611A2 snap ring pliers, get a 2 or 3 jaw puller, and definitely buy the factory shim set (38912-PE1-702). Having a dial caliper handy to measure the thickness of the shims to know what you're putting in and a good feeler gauge helped me get the gap right the first time. The only other comment I would make is that my 2011 Civic has an additional sheet metal bracket for the windshield washer fluid reservoir that was located exactly in the way of the pulley. I ended up bending it out of the way and then bending it back after the job was complete. Thanks for uploading this super helpful video!
Great suggestions! I didn't realize there was a factory shim set so you taught me something. I'll update the description section. Thanks for the info!
@@FastFixRUclips one of the other commenters mentioned the shim set. It has four shims which range from about 0.009 to 0.025 inch and allow you to mix and match to get the gap you want. It was well worth the $ to get. The compressor clutch/pulley I purchased didn't include any shims or the snap rings, so It was the right thing to do.
imbok 100% the right move to buy that. As you saw in my video the snap rings included did not fit correctly. If this kit comes with the right snap rings as well as shims, definitely worth it. 👍
I had to buy two factory shim sets because it was not enough with the 4 shims in one kit.
your video is the best , it shows us how u put the shims in cause i have no clue what shims are , thks for also showing the bolts to remove the compressor ... 👍
Glad it helped!
Hey Guys. There is a Honda Service Bulletin out on this issue.
(Service bulletin # 10056005-7115). Even if you are beyond the extended warranty of 7 years, it is a step by step procedure for an AC clutch replacement on a Honda CRV. A great complement to this excellent video. It provides all the clearance specs and torque specs for this job.
Good stuff! Thanks for the valuable information!
Love this video, now I'm ready to do it with my 2008 Honda CRV Indonesia (with R20A machine just like this video), thanks a lot
Great to hear that & best of luck! Hope it goes well for you 👍
I'm glad, it's well done, I did just like you did, replaced the megnetic clutch without evacuating the compressor, so i don't need a vacuum machine so do freon refill. The best part is when before I had no idea how to loose the center piece nut, until i found this video how to. Thank you !!
@@gusanonymous you’re welcome! Thanks for the nice comment 👍
I have a 2008 Honda Civic Si and this video helped a lot! I used a AC clutch for my model but everything else worked out. (For the record I used 2 shims), 3 shims we’re too many and wasn’t spinning correctly. This was a pain in the ass but I finally got it working. Good luck!
Haha, yeah it is a pain! No getting around that. Glad to hear the success story!
How do you decide 2 or 3? Put it all together and try?
cardboardorigami yes I tried 3 out put it together and it was having trouble turning took it apart again put 2 and it worked perfectly. 👌🏼
@@rudycavazos3008 do you have a link to the clutch kit?
cardboardorigami what kind of Honda Civic do you have?
I tried to do this job a while ago. After getting all of the stuff out of the way, I was defeated by the stator snap ring. Maybe I'll try again after moving the compressor like you did. It was a lot of work and busted knuckles to get a strike out. Thanks for the tips.
Even so, good on you for attempting. It’s not easy and I almost threw in the towel a time or two. The inner most snap ring is a devil if you don’t have the right pliers. Even then, it isn’t easy. Best of luck if you try again 👍
Great work, thanks! This job went smoothly for me because of this video. I recommend buying a factory shim set for $6 (38912-PE1-702). I used a 3-jaw puller on the pulley.
Andy Pozsgay no pleoblem! factory shim kit is a great idea. Thanks for the comment!
This shim set was some where in the range of 20 bucks with shipping (14 dollars with 6 bucks shipping) on eBay. I found them on HondaPartsNow.com for 3 bucks and 10 dollar shipping. A little better.
www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~shim~set~38912-pe1-702.html
Hondapartscheap has them for sale around 8 bucks with shipping.
I have this problem on my 2010. If I tap the clutch with a bar. It will engage.
I think I'll take the clutch off and clean the rust and check shims and gap.
Worth a try. Save alot of work
Yes, yours is probably salvageable with a little cleaning. I wish that was true for mine, but it was completely dead. Best of luck!
Did cleaning the clutch work for you?
A little trial and error serves to benefit us all. Thanks for this video, it’s gonna come in handy for my tsx and civic both with dead ac. 👍
Indeed it does! Best of luck on the AC!
Great video. Well done! The small outside snap ring in my kit was too thick. I had to use the original. I installed a new serpentine belt during the process. Getting the new belt over the alternator was the hardest part of the job! It baaarely fits. I had to have a helper hold the tensioner.
2008 Civic with 180k.
Great to hear you got it done! And yep, I used the original snap rings too. The ones in the kit did not fit. Completely agree on the belt. I remember it taking a good hour to change mine. Thanks for the comment!
Actually, you do not have to touch the alternator to do this. Leave it alone unless you MUST gain extra clearance. The most difficult part is the pulley removal itself. If you live in a climate where they salt the roads and such, it may be rusted. When you DO get the pulley off, make sure you compare it directly with the replacement. It has to match exact or the belt alignment will be off and it will sling it off in 30 seconds of running. There are variations....check it first. Also, check the compressor operation first. Disconnect the little red power wire and use a test light to make sure it is getting power when you are calling for A/C. You may just need to replace the compressor relay. I've been a professional mechanic for 40 years..... Good, informative video.
That you sir! Much appreciate your expertise. 👍👍👍
Just got the old clutch completely off. Never would have attempted this without your video (and the one by the Canadian guys that it looks like you might have taken some tips from). I ordered the size down of snap ring pliers from the ones you recommended since you said yours had too big of holes. They seemed to work more or less. Getting the pulley off was a major pain in the ass. Never would have been comfortable whacking it so many times with a hammer and pry bar if I hadn't watched a video of it being done that way and working out. I put the lower rear bolt back in while getting the pulley off so the compressor wouldn't move around so much. My stator coil was also rusted on, so had to use the pry bar and hammer on it as well.
Will begin re-assembly tomorrow. Hopefully goes well. Honestly the part that feels most intimidating at this point is getting the stupid serpentine belt back on. Not a lot of room to maneuver that thing around.
Wayne Rowcliffe glad the helped! Yes, I’m sure I saw the Canadian guy’s video, but honestly there were no “good” videos out there on this procedure so I thought there was room for improvement. This video is far from perfect, but I’m glad it was able to help you with your repair. Bolting the compressor is an excellent tip and honestly, something that didn’t even occur to me. But I suppose because my pulley came off so easily, it wasn’t enough of a problem to require further thought.
Best of luck on reassembly! Hopefully cold air soon. Thanks for the comment.
@@FastFixRUclips Back together and so far so good. Those snap rings are a real pain though. Still not sure that I got them seated all the way. That pulley isn't going anywhere though, so good enough I guess.
Also thanks for the tip on the washer for a spacer. Ended up needing the washer plus the original shim. Tried the shims that came in the kit and had the same problem you did with the plate being uneven.
Also tightened the clutch plate down onto the pulley without the shims to make sure the pulley was seated evenly, which got rid of a squeaking noise it was making when I'd spin it.
Thanks again for the video. No way I would have attempted this without it.
Wayne Rowcliffe very good to hear! It sounds like you fixed it and that’s awesome. Because it ain’t easy! Glad this video helped you. Take care!
Thanks for the video, saved me at least a $1000 when fixing the air conditioning on my daughter's honda civic. (personally, i would have opened the windows and gone without the air conditioning but she did not want to mess up her hair) diagnostics were not too difficult. connected a car battery directly to the clutch (with the engine not running) and the clutch did not engage. this pointed to a faulty clutch. got the clutch and ring pliers (yes, the 4611A2) from amazon for about $60 total. the job was not difficult but give yourself a day to account for any missteps. i had a pulley puller handy, which made getting the old clutch off easier than hammering it off. good luck.
Excellent to hear! Yes, definitely not a bad idea to do this job on a Friday or Saturday I case it needs an extra day. Good idea on hooking up the battery directly. That will show the problem for sure.
Side note: after two+ years with my new clutch installed it’s still going strong, but the actual AC compressor is now showing signs of failure. I’m still happy I replaced he clutch only. Saved $$$ at the time and extended AC use for 2+ years.
Thanks for the comment and glad money was saved!
Nice fix! Much appreciate the detail instructions & tools used. Great Teacher!! ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
You bet! Thanks for the comment 👍
A great tip I've seen on another video about this, is using a small c clamp where you clamp the clutch to the other side so it don't spin when you tighten or loosen the nut. No more screw drivers or pry bars, which are a pain in the ass. First time I did it, I had to use some pliers to grip one of those big round things as I tightened it.
Oh, nice! Makes sense 👍
Slightly different on right hand drive civic 2.2ctdi 2009. You can get at the a/c pulley as that wall is not there. However you need to drop the coolant tank. Only 3 bolts. No need to pull it out theres enough flex to move it out the way. Just be careful not to drop dirt in it. Pulley is far more seized on than yours. Spent 4 hours trying to get it off so far. Could have removed the whole unit in that time and put it in a vice. Great video, really helped me thanks
Good info! 4 hours...yikes! Way to stay in it though. Yeah, I got lucky on the pulley. Came off pretty easy. Glad the video helped. Thanks for the comment!
I just finished this job. Thanks for the excellent video. I did end up breaking the thermal protection switch during the process. The outside wires on the wiring harness go through the (normally closed) thermal protection switch and the middle wire goes to the clutch. I was getting an open circuit when testing continuity between the outside pins after the job where I was getting impedance across the same pins before starting the job. I ended up bypassing the thermal protection switch and it now works well. I don't think it's possible to find a switch and the old one is pretty well stuck to the compressor anyway.
Nice work! I’d have done the same thing in your situation. If it works, it works 👍
Great video helped me a lot I fixed mine the bearings were shot and ground up inside !
Glad the video helped! Thanks for the comment 👍
My bearings also ground up inside -- did you have a hard time removing the pulley? If so, how did you finally get it off? I've tried using pry bar with 90 deg angle to loosen from the front with no luck. Going the back route now...
Edit: Had to hammer the crap out of it, but it did come off!
@@jimgutt749 yes I also had to hammer the crap out of mine but did eventually give haha
To get to the screw that holds the electrical wire on the coil, you can bend the metal that holds the wires or use a pair of vice grips to loosen the screw. Also, it would be nice for the creator to remove the link to the pliers used in the video, which are not the right size, as it could be confusing. Thanks. Great video!!!
Bought an 8 piece set of icon snap ring pliers at harbor freight for $69 fit perfect also compared them to my knipex and craftsmanship looked equal. Used the 8mm bolt on the thermo cut off ginsu for a ground.
Nice! Harbor freight comes in clutch often times. Good idea on the ground too 👍
Well done, you're a good guy for teaching this trick, I agree that is the hard way but the cheapest way saving the hassle of evacuating the system exposing for humidity then recharging, I did it on my 02 CRV in less than 2 hours on the floor jack, will be gravy job doing it for a customer :)
Exactly! 2hrs is flyin! Nice job 👍
DO NOT DO THIS ON AN 8TH GEN CIVIC SI. There is very little clearance. You cannot reach the middle of the alternator as there is a piece of metal in the way that is holding the windshield fluid reservoir. Just have the refrigerant flushed out and remove the whole compressor. You will save yourself a lot of time and pain. Great video, just wish I knew this before spending waaaay to long hunched over trying to copy.
Oh man! Sorry this didn’t work for your Si…. I know others have asked, but I never knew if it’d work or not. Know we know! Thanks for commenting and relaying the info 👍👍👍
awesome video. Thanks for the advice. I’m going to attempt this on my 07 civic si. I jumped the sensor like you did and the compressor kicked on for about 5 seconds then it won’t come back on unless I shut the car off and restart it. Wonder what I should do next
Interesting. Well if the compressor kicks on, you might just have electrical issues. AC is such a tricky repair…prob why shops just replace the entire system. Debugging them is too much work.
Just did this job . You don’t have to remove the alternator to remove the a/c compressor .
Good video tho, thanks for taking the time .
Austen Starnes This is correct. I removed the alternator to better get at the AC mounting bolts, but it was not completely necessary. As you discovered, you can get at them without removing the alternator. Home mechanics preference I suppose. Thanks for the comment and suggestion!
Good to know i tried doing this job without taking the compressor off i couldn't get the first snap ring off I'm gonna try again today and take the compressor off i managed to secure the plate with a wrench to a bolt on the car frame and took the clutch bolt off without power tools
Mo right, it’s a must to loosen the compressor. Almost impossible to get the snap rings otherwise. It only takes a few minutes and will save you hours of frustration. Best of luck!
Great video. Although it made me realize I'm much better of replacing the compressor than screwing up the alignment of th replacement clutch haha
Ha! Totally hear you man!
How do you disconnect and reconnect the positive wire on the coil. Is it just like a “plug-in” or is there more to it?
Thanks for the great video.
Hello. Yes, the power wire is just plug/unplug. Glad you found the video helpful! Best of luck with the fix!
Great video👍 17:36 back ground was funny too lol.
Glad you liked! Take care!
Great video bro I appreciate your time in showing this. Thanks!
You’re welcome! Hope it helps! I appreciate the comment 👍
Great video, good instructions. My young son drives a 2009 Fit/Jazz, and his A/C clutch died and now is noisy (and no AC of course). We live in Scandinavia, so he can do without the AC, but the noise is annoying. Can we dismount anything, to make the noise stop, without having to do the full replacement, etc? Our local Honda shops wants USD 2000 to do the job, which makes no sense with such an old car. Thanks for your help. Kind regards Marcus and Christian
Greetings from America! One of my favorite bands (Ghost) is from Sweden, so anything I can do to help repay your people for the hypnotic Melodie’s I will gladly take on. So, no
you don’t have to do the entire job to fix your problem. It sounds like the pulley bearing is going/has gone bad. That’s what’s likely causing the loud noise. So, you’ll need to go as far as removing the pulley and replacing that. You can skip removing the alternator as well, but removing it does give extra room.
Another solution (and I’ve never tried this) is to use a shorter belt and simply bypass the AC unit altogether. I no longer have my Honda, so I can’t get a visual on what that looks like, but it’s worth a shot.
Please let me know how it goes! Thanks.
Much appreciated, we will certainly give it a go! And yes, agreed, many good bands have come out of Sweden over the years 😊🤘
Hello, im beeing watching some videos to figure out, is the procedure the same on civic than the acurs rsx base to replace those oarts?? Thank you.
Hello. I'm not sure the procedure is exactly the same, but it would be close. I'd imagine the compressor would be the same, however. Either way, these compressors are all put together the same way, so that's a constant. Best of luck!
Did the same job and it work !
Thanks for the video it give me a good guideline on how to proceed .
Also I did it without removing the alternator . I had a hard time removing the pulley everything was rust and the main bearing was totaly burned broken . When it goes off a part of the compressor casing broke ( the snap ring part broke with the small inner bearing ) .
Sound stupid but the piece of aluminum realign perfectly together so as i was there i decided to bond it with JBweld and it turn out great . When everything is assembled nothing can move , the nut is torqued and maintain the broken parts so the snap ring rest in place !
Saved a 1200$ job and JBweld save me on this 180$ job ( Clutch, JBweld and Body clip kit that come with the tool to remove it )
Wow, sounds like you had a pretty challenging fix. Glad you were able to get it done! And yes, the alternator isn't necessarily something you need to remove. I did to get at the mounting bolts easier, but obviously that step is not required. Thanks for the comment and glad to hear the success story!
I am a lexus auto tech doing this at home and if u dont have those snap ring tools, trust me it is a pain in the ass, not autozone nor oreillys nor walmart nor northern has them, turned a 1hr job into a 3hr +, do urself a favor and get some long thin snap ring pliers that open rings outwards
Jose exactly man! Thanks for the comment!
What pliers did you end up using. Other viewers have mentioned that the recommended knipex pliers are to big to fit into the snap ring holes. I’m doing this job this weekend and want to ensure I have the correct tools. Thanks!
@@scottmason7129 You are correct. The pliers in the video have prongs that are a touch too big to get both prongs into the holes, but they will work. I've searched for different ones with smaller prongs, but I can't find anything. As far as I'm aware, these are as good as it gets. Honestly, having both pair shown in this video is a good idea. The cheap pair work great for the first snap ring because it has small holes, but will not work on the second. Removing the rings isn't too bad with these pliers, but re-installing them is where it gets tricky because you can't fit both prongs into the holes, you'll need to drill out the snap ring holes to fit the prongs or file down the prongs. Builders choice. It sucks, but I know of no alternative. I'm sure Honda has the perfect set built especially for them...
Excellent honest video. Thank you
You’re welcome!
thank you the whole set for me 35 dollars versus the AC shop wanted to charge me 800 dollars hell no, 2005 honda civic LX 1.7 125,000 miles
Sure, no problem! Definitely too many dollars at the shop. Home repair all the way!
@Box Top compressor not clutch i recomend by brand new compressor with clutch and its easier to install than changing clutch pulley
Thanks for the step by step instruction
ProBballChamp you bet! Thanks for the comment. Take care!
Late reply - I ordered this part now, I'll report back in a month when it's done ;)
Lol, good luck!
How’d it go?
@@frankalmauger9942 Part hasn't arrived yet...
@@the_kombinator how'd it go
@@omar10wahab Oh I forgot all about this. I started messing with the compressor, and it turns out the whole shaft was wobbling. The belt snapped, and as I was examining it, the alternator was ALSO messed up. I ended up replacing the alternator with a junkyard part and outright replaced the compressor as it seized. I then returned the clutch kit. But, after having the old compressor off the car, it doesn't look like too hard a job.
My dad has that car now, he's enjoying working AC ;)
Is there any reason why you wouldnt wanna use an air hammer and pickle fork or something to get the clutch pulley off?
Ehh, not really. If you’re not saving the pulley, give it hell! I could see the air hammer destroying the pulley however and maybe not nudging it off the shaft. Experiment with a few live taps and see what happens. Good luck!
In my experience, the coil/pulley is never bad. I just remove 1 shim, or sand the mounting surface of the clutch a little bit (where the shim is). The gap tolerance between clutch and pulley is very narrow. It's something like 0.35mm to 0.70mm. So I sand the clutch a little, and mount it back to test, until I hear small screeching at idle with a/c NOT engaged. Then I push the a/c button on and off until there is no more screeching noise (to wear the clutch just a bit, so it's very close to the pulley but not touching)!
Interesting! That’s sure something people could try. In my case, I removed the clutch plate and sanded off the rust and corrosion, but it didn’t make a difference. Maybe tightening the gap could have helped, but it seemed dead. Certainly something to try before doing all the work. Thanks for the tip on this!
My coil is bad, anonyme. 2010 civic with 180k. Did some research and the coil seems to be a common issue.
You can check the coil status with a multimeter at the relay. Should read about 4 ohms. Pegged reading indicates a bad coil.
My ac works fine but the bearings in the pulley seem wore out(loose, and making a bad noise). Would this repair fix that issue or would I need a whole new compressor unit?
If just pulley bearings, replace the pulley and you should be all set. You don’t have to do the entire process. You’d stop after you get the pulley off 👍
This is the way its done !
👍👍👍
I did this and bought the shims and both snap rings from my Honda dealer, they are available because the ones that come with the Amazon kits just don't fit well.
Yes, 100% correct. The included shims and snap rings do not work well.
I should have watched your video before giving my car in garage. I had similar problem with my air-conditioning system. It was not turning on. Mechanic said ac radiator/condenser is broken and told expensive repair. I agreed somehow to replace but when he replaced condenser still AC was not working and he found out same problem as you mentioned with clutches. I think my car condenser was still fine and i just loose the money.
Thanks for your video
yeah for sure. Sucks when you get the wrong diagnosis and the problem is not corrected. Hopefully the ac will be blowing cold soon!
This video makes me want to just get a new car. Good effort for showing people though.
🤣😂🤣 that is so true! It’s not an easy fix and I totally hear you. Unfortunately, the value of these cars isn’t much past the cost of having a shop fix it, so a new car does make sense in that way! Thanks for the comment 👍
If the outer clutch plate is turning (when power to the clutch) does this mean the compressor itself MUST also be rotating? Can the outer plate rotate with the pulley and still NOT engage the compressor itself? I just replaced the expansion valve on my 2005 CRV (a miserable job) and still no cool - no pressure buildup on high side. Could it be that the compressor itself is not turning although the clutch visually appears to be engaging? I'd like to work on what the real problem is. Thanks.
Hello Kelly. This is a head scratcher... please keep in mind that I’m not an expert in the detailed functionality of AC systems...just want to declare that. However, the hypothesis you’ve postulated does not seem likely to me. There would have to be a lot of broken parts for the compressor to not spin internally when the clutch is engaged. Is it possible? I suppose so, but I would argue that it would be making a bunch of noise and you’d know something like that was wrong, but I guess it’s possible. If the clutch is engaging yet you don’t have cold air, this signals low refrigerant or a bad expansion valve which you replaced. Did you make sure to run a pump on the system to vacuum out the moisture before charging the system? How many miles on the car? And just to state the obvious...make sure the dial is on the coldest level possible and the fans are set on high. It also helps to drive the car with the AC cranked to get the coldest air. I do assume you know these things, but sometimes people don’t and I have to make sure. Thanks for your question!
I did this three summers ago using a cheap eBay clutch. It's still going strong. It replaced a clutch on a new compressor that was installed just a few years prior. So apparently the eBay cheapo clutches are just as good as the clutches included on new dealer installed compressors.
That’s good info to know. I haven’t heard of anyone having issues with the “cheap” replacement clutches and hopefully that holds true. Thanks for the comment!
@@FastFixRUclips yes, and the car is winter driven in the horrible salted road conditions for three months a year, and the compressor is not well protected, so all in all pretty good.
5 years later and the ebay ac clutch is now rattling, one of the small rubber bushings disintegrated. It still works but the rattling is disconcerting. I ordered another ebay clutch. They've gone down in price since I got the first.
I just finished replacing the old clutch. It turned out that all the rubber bushings on the clutch hub were disintegrated. That caused vibration that was the main source of noise (and occasional clanging sound). The bearing was dry and noisy too. The magnetic coil was still good. The new one is installed and the AC is now quiet and continues to work after the second in place clutch replacement.
Hey what model is your car exactly and could you link the clutch set that you ordered
Any idea how the pulley could be off center from the rest of the pulleys after install? I used this guide one my 2010 civic SI and nearly everything was the same. It worked great and we took it for a test drive afterward just fine. The next morning my wife went to start it and heard a noise. I check it and the serpentine belt shredded off one groove. I took it off and looked down the plane of the pulleys and the A/C pulley is off by 1 groove. I can't see a way to move it over. Other than this it seemed to work really well.
Hello. Is the pulley off one groove to the inside (closest to the compressor) or the outside? Also, is it possible the belt was in poor condition to start and coinsedently shredded after the repair? I don’t think there is any adjustability on the compressor mounting locations which would enable you to manipulate the unit to line up, but maybe check that. Also, I’ve heard from others that the Si parts are different than the non-si parts. Double check to see if you got the Si stuff. I’m not aware of the differences, but from what I’ve read in the comments, there are indeed differences. Maybe to confirm the misalignment take a straight edge and check the pulley against others. Looks can be deceiving.
Please let me know what you find out.
@@FastFixRUclips It's off to the outside so that rules out me not pushing on the pulley far enough. I tried loosening the bolts again but there's no wiggle room to move the compressor over either. Having the wrong parts is the conclusion I've come to also because I can't find anything else that should be wrong with how it was installed. The kit I bought from a reputable seller on
Ebay said it was compatible with the SI but I've just finished messaging the seller with a picture of the issue and my compressors label to see if they can narrow down a compatibility issue or install error. I do believe it was an older belt too so it could be possible taking it off for the install damaged it to cause the break. If the seller doesn't see any issue then ill just try the new belt and hope I'm seeing it wrong.
Thanks for the quick reply and the awesome video. I could not have attempted this fun project without your help.
@@natedogjon sure thing, it’s no problem. I figure if I put videos out like this, I should also answer questions as no video is perfect and questions are gonna happen.
It does sound like a parts issue to me…I’d say the seller is not likely to give you good information or tell you the part is for non-Si models…that would put the seller on the hook for a return and in my experience, they’re usually going to pass the buck to avoid a return. Of course I could be wrong and they may indeed fess up to listing the part incorrectly. Can you link the part in a response to this post? I’m curious. Thanks.
So after almost a year of use, is the part still holding up well?
Josh Barber it is! No issues at all.
Hey so I'm currently doing the same job but on a 07 crv, by the looks of things the compressor is identical. Only problem I'm facing is the last c thing is stuck. I got the smaller ring pliers u linked in description but their tips actually broke off. Any ideas on how to loosen the c ring? Great guide by the way, best I've seen on this repair.
Hello. That’s unfortunate…id say maybe try a punch and hammer to knock it loose. Just tap around the ring if you can. Sometimes the impact will knock it loose. An air hammer would probably be to severe. It might be slightly rusted to the housing or just on super tight. Either way, you’ll need new snap ring pliers. If they broke, i bet Amazon will replace. Worth a shot anyway. Sorry, bad situation. If you can’t get the ring loose, the compressor would likely need to be replaced or removed for better access to the snap ring. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the comment👍
Just curious, did you get last clip off and if so how did you end up doing it?
No. So I ended up taking out the compressor completely and I still couldn't get c ring out. Tried penetrating oil, knocking and hammering it. I'll be replacing entire compressor. Just bad luck I guess cause I couldn't find a single person with the same issue in all the places I looked.
great job, very helpful, nice narration/explanation.. Answered many questions for me!!!!
Excellent! Glad the video was of some help. Thanks for the comment!
Great video! Just did this on a 2009 civic and everything seems to be working but I'm hearing a very slight kind of hissing (or maybe metal scraping?) noise when I accelerate. Any idea what it could be? I used the OEM shims for the clutch but I'm going to double check the gap.
Hey there. Yes, check the gap. That’s what I suspect your problem is. Also, a telling sign that the gap isn’t correct will be small metal pieces near the clutch assembly from the grinding metal. Also, make sure the clutch isn’t wobbling. To do then, check the gap at 45 degree increments all the way around the clutch. Beat of luck!
@@FastFixRUclips thanks for the reply. My issue is that the stator shifted and pulled the red wire out of the connector. How can I make sure the stator stays in place without rotating?
Edit: I had to disassemble and tighten up the snap ring on the stator. Seems perfect now. Thanks again for your help. Couldn't have done it without this video!
Great video! I replaced my clutch, turned ac on and clutch was working, turned off & on a couple times to see it working and then after holding the rpms around 2K it started to feel like it was cooling and at that point the new clutch quit? Checked everything over even fuse/relay but still no luck. Any thoughts on this or just bad luck on a new clutch actually failing?
Hello. Sorry for the late reply. #vegas. Anyway, yes you may have gotten unlucky with the new clutch being a factory defect. But before you replace it, try adjusting the shims. I’d suggest removing a shim or two and see if that helps keep the clutch engaged. It might be too far from the coil and is losing it’s bite in the upper rpm range. Feel free to update this thread. Best of luck.
@@FastFixRUclips thanks for getting back with me. adjusted shims and clutch is working! That’s the good news. My bad news is still blowing hot air and my pressure is way in the red zone, looks like I have more than a clutch problem. Lol
Oh bummer…I’m no AC expert, but you may just have too much refrigerant in the system. Due to the complexity of AC systems, I recommend a shop for this sort of problem. Replacing the clutch is one thing, but figuring out other problems related to pressures are another. Best of luck!
Great video...thanks. My 2008 civic is blowing cold air for awhile, then it blows warm air, then cold again...etc. Was this the issue you were having or did you air quit altogether.
kev hed my air quit altogether due to the malfunctioning clutch. The refrigerant levels were correct, so after checking fuses, etc, the clutch was left as the culprit. AC can be tricky to diagnose, but check the most common failures first. Fuses & refrigerant levels are a good place to start. In your case, it sounds like your AC fans are not engaging, so make sure those are on when your AC is on. The condenser needs adequate air passing through it to aid in cooking the charge. A simple test would be to drive the car at speed and see if the air is cold. Then see if the air is cold at idle. If air is warm at idle, it’s probably the fans. Or, you could just observe the fans when the AC is on and verify that they’re also on. Checking the refrigerant level is always a good idea too. I’m not a mechanic, so just a disclaimer there. Best of luck in any case!
Very detailed. What I'm not clear on is how did the condenser need to be changed but you changed the magnetic clutch. Does that mean that the condenser was not actually bad and may have been misdiagnosed?
C w good question. After watching again, I see why you’re asking that. So, what I was trying to say is that a shop will tell you the compressor will need changed to remedy the problem. I have yet to come across a shop that will offer to replace only the clutch. I’m sure some shops do, but the majority will replace the entire unit so they’re sure the problem is fixed. It was my opinion that the clutch was bad and not the compressor, hence the reason for the video. I was not 100% certain of this, but this is a common failure of the AC system on Honda’s so I thought it a smart gamble. If that doesn’t make sense, let me know. Thanks for the question!
@@FastFixRUclips Makes perfect sense. You changed the part because it's way cheaper than the dealers would have in hopes it fix it, and it did. That's a good fix though because I cannot get anyone to quote me less than a 1000 to fix this ac plus 174 to diagnose the problem. Thank you. I will try that see if I have the same luck😃
Good choice to support the compressor. Crimped line = game over.
T Mst correct! Thanks for the comment!
Great fix guide, I'm going to do mine next..
Best of luck!
This is probably a stupid question, but is it really necessary to replace the whole pulley if the clutch material is worn? Isn't the clutch material on the black cover, and wouldn't replacing only that still work?
Hello. Not a stupid question at all! Absolutely try cleaning up the clutch plate (remove rust, dust and road grime) and see if that solves the problem. It certainly can fix the issue, but a lot of the time the stator goes bad and left with no other recourse except to replace. Thanks for the good question 👍
Cool video! This model seems easier to work on vs my son’s 2006 Civic Si. The compressor sits behind the body frame and it’s a bear to reach the nut and snap rings . I’ll probably end up removing the entire compressor from the top and repair the clutch on a bench 🤔 Any advice and suggestions will be appreciated.
El Gato Gordo totally possible the si model is a bit different. Unfortunately you’ll need to evacuate the AC system then recharge it if you’re removing the compressor. Honestly, if you’re going that route, check prices on new or rebuilt compressors. The higher price might be worth the hassle of replacing the clutch system. Best of luck!
can we remove top engine mount nut and 2 bolts hold the cradle low engine down just pass the metal fender (use the floor jack put at oil pan)
Hello. That will enable you to lower the engine, but that probably won’t solve the interference issue. If you were able to move the engine back a bit, that would help you the most. I don’t think lowering the engine will help, but I haven’t heard of anyone trying that, so it’s possible. I’d just say, probably not gonna work. If you do try, please update this thread. Thanks! Best of luck 👍
Hi, i have freeon on my system and also the ac clutch picks up but it is not cold inside the car. Pls what could be the problem
Hello. You may just enough freon to get the clutch to engage, but not quite enough to adequately cool the car.
With AC, it’s very hard to diagnose problems without access to the car, so if all things look normal, prob best to take it to a shop.
I have a 2007 civic that blows cold for about 10 minutes then goes to warm.... (does not come back unless sits for sometime). The clutch stops and does not come back on. We have replaced the relay, refrigerant level is fine, and all electrical seems fine. I have even replaced the control panel inside (per another video saw on here). Do you think the clutch can cause this problem - cold for temporary time then switching to warm?
Hello. In short yes. In length: It could be the case that you have a weak magnet or the clutch plate is corroded and causing the AC to disengage. Do your AC fans kick on and stay on? Some people have had issues with the AC fans not turning on which creates warm AC conditions.
I'd say a weak magnet or corroded clutch plate could be your issue if there's no other indications of failures anywhere else in the system.
Overall, It sounds like you've replaced or checked the other likely causes, so it's entirely possible the clutch needs to be replaced next.
@@FastFixRUclips The fans do run when it is started.
@@riverrollskatecenter5734 Interesting... I'm not an AC expert by any definition, but it seems to me like you've troubleshot every other likely cause of your problem and found that everything is in working order. Because the AC clutch is a common failing point in the AC system and one of the few remaining potential causes of your problem, I would surmise that it is more likely the gremlin in the system. Best of luck. Please let me know how things shake out.
@@FastFixRUclips quick question - what Clutch did you use on your replacement?
NM - saw the link thanks
Hi Fast Fix, My daughter's 2013 Honda Civic Hybrid was making a clak clak noise when she started it and I asked her if I could take a look at it to see what was causing the noise. I thought it was the black plastic covers covering the oil pan etc. so I tightened them and nope didn't solve problem. I checked for DTS codes and found B2992 Thermal protector shorted or bad... found the thermal protector to be on the air compressor clutch. Sure enough when I pressed the A/C button in the car on and the clutch engaged the noise was worse. So I stared at the air compressor for 2 weeks and it didn't fix itself. So I thought I better do something different. I started praying and I told God "if you want me to jump in and fix it please send me information that will make sense and give me the confidence and understanding I will need." I still didn't know if it was something he wanted me to tackle but then I found your video and it looks doable for me. The only thing different is the hybrid system but I believe I just need to remove the backseat and turn off the hybrid switch before attempting to do anything. Also disconnect the 12v battery negative cable. Just in case anything is shorting to the body. Don't want to get electrocuted. So thanks to you I'm at 90% instead of -100% sure I can do it. I have all the tools and I do have a car lift so it will definitely make it easier for me. Thank you for your video. You are answered prayer. Times are hard and I'm sure she doesn't have $2-3k for a new compressor and labor it will cost her to get it repaired. God bless you and your family.
Hello. Glad to hear this video has helped you. I assume you’re replacing the thermal connector and not the entire compressor, correct? Or have you been advised to replace the entire compressor?
Thanks for the tip on the shims, what size washer did you buy? I’m running into the same problem with the clutch face not being parallel because of the shims, Also I had to use a slide hammer with the hook to get my pulley off it was rusted to the shaft of the compressor.
Yep, I though someone else would have a similar issue. The shims are junk and do not fit. I don’t know what the exact measurements on the washer were. Take one of the original shims into the hardware store and find the best match. As far as width goes, it was a standard washer width...whatever that may be. Hope this helps.
I'm soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo glad my compressor is topside on the engine.
Phil G 😂😂😂 right on man!
Anyone else have problems with the snap ring being too thick? What was the replacement if you screwed up the original for the pulley? Home Depot carries an inch and a quarter internal snap rings, are those the right size?
Hello. Somewhere in the comments are the proper snap ring dimensions. There’s a “rebuild/replacement” kit that has all the correct pieces, including the snap rings. I wish I could tell you where to look or at least a close time frame, but alas it’s buried…. If anything, bring the old snap ring to the store and try matching it up. Or measure the old one. Best of luck!
Im not sure if you covered it in the video but do you have to take all the 4 bolts completely off the compressor, or is it enough if you just loosen them alot
Honestly, I don’t recall. Start with loosening them and if that doesn’t work, fully remove 👍
@@FastFixRUclips allright, whats your guess/bet. My ac clutch engages only for a couple of minutes for example if the car has sat all night. When it engages i instantly get cool air, but ofc when it doesnt engage anymore cool air stops. I live in Europe Finland. My honda civic is 2008 with 240000km on it, maybe i could get away with just taking the clutch pad and cleaning it, what you think 🤔
@@FastFixRUclips im also really beginner level with cars so not sure if id be able to do the full change of the clutch.
Hello I hope u are this but what type of grease did u use??
Hello. I used wheel bearing grease. Thanks for the question!
You are master and we learn from you
Great video! You probably saved me hours time and headaches! I'm about to do this job myself.
Question, any recommendation on where to purchase the clutch? I went to an O'Reilly's and they didn't have the clutch for sale, just the compressor
Fantastic! It’s a doable job, just make sure you have the right tools and parts. You can find a link to the clutch in the description. Best of luck!
@@FastFixRUclips Thank you!
So how did you know if the air compressor was still good? I have a 2008 Honda Civic and the clutch never engages to send cool air into the car. Recently I started hearing noises coming from the AC pulley that you replace in this video. I'd like to replace the pulley like you did but if the air compressor is bad then that would be a waste obviously.
It was possible the compressor was bad, but in most cases it’s just the stator that craps out. I did a lot of research prior to doing this fix and all of it pointed to the stator being the problem. Plus, I had a family member who had the same issue and a new stator fixed it. You can also check the pressure of your AC system and see if it’s low. If the pressure is normal and assuming you don’t have electrical issues, you can bet its likely the stator. The compressor would kick on otherwise.
If you’re hearing noise in the pulley and the AC just quit working, the refrigerant pressure is normal, changing the stator is the way to go. I’m sure there’s situations where the compressor is also bad, but those cases are a small percentage.
Best of luck!
@@FastFixRUclips I was able to replace my Compressor Clutch Coil Assembly thanks to your video. The AC pulley bearings were definitely bad and now the noise is gone. Unfortunately the clutch won't engage to push cold air through the vents. My guess it is the compressor but at least I fixed the pulley issue.
I watched your how-to and tried to follow it on my 2006 civic si.
However, when I got it back together the coil rattled and spun inside the pulley. The first time it sheared off the wires and wrapped them around the pulley.
I disassembled and checked the coil snap ring and it looked to be secure.
But after two more assemblies and tear downs it still rattles and spins.
Close inspection shows there to be a nub on the back of the coil that engages in the compressor.
If the snap ring was tight that should prevent it from spinning but it doesn't.
Suggestions?
Hello. Shoot, sounds like a loose snap ring to me. There was another person in the comments who had the same problem. He tightened/adjusted the snap ring and the coil stayed in place. If you’ve taken it apart two times and closely inspected it, make sure your snap ring isn’t worn and that it’s the proper thickness. I unfortunately don’t know what thickness it should be. Is it possible you’re using the incorrect snap ring? Sorry to hear of the troubles! Feel free to respond with anything you get figured out.
@@FastFixRUclips I tried two more times today and had to give up on the snap rings. I tried both the old one and the new one. The old one has an inner taper and I made sure that it was facing outward (that is what the manual for my Odyssey compressor says. I know it is different but assume the snap ring works similarly.).
It is possible that there is some corrosion in the ring groove. I tried scraping it but with no luck.
As soon as I got the ring on and wiggled the coil it popped off.
At this point drastic measures were needed. I used JBweld to glue the coil in place on the compressor.
It seemed pretty tight when I put the pulley back on but I'm giving it 24 hours to cure before testing.
We'll see tomorrow.
Thanks for your reply.
Brian Cartier wow, sounds like you had a raw deal wirh this whole experience. If the snap ring is popping off after you install it, something is wrong. Is the replacement coil the same depth as the original? I’d definitely measure and be sure you have the correct part IF your JB weld fix doesn’t hold. Sorry to hear of the troubles! Hope it all works out. Feel free to update the thread!
@@FastFixRUclips The problem occurred with the new as well as old coils. I imagine if I pulled the compressor it would have been much easier, but, like you, I did not want to discharge the lines.
We just did a test drive and the AC works great.
Fingers crossed that the JB weld won't break for a year or two.
Thanks for your great video. It did help me a lot.
Brian Cartier that’s awesome! You had a strange situation, but seems like you found a solution for the next year or so. Hopefully! Never underestimate the JB Weld. Thanks for updating the thread. It might help someone out who runs into the same problem. 👍
my pulley is locked up and the belt is rubbing/burning/smoking as it goes across it. It does not spin freely. Is there any way to just permanently disengage the clutch? Its a 2001 honda Civic, i really dont need the AC. Just need the pulley to spin freely.
Riki Patel Riki Patel unfortunately what you’re describing doesn’t sound like a clutch issue at all. It sounds like a bad bearing in the pulley itself. This can only be fixed my removing the pulley and replacing it. I would check for any obstructions that might be prohibiting the pulley from spinning. Maybe there’s a rock or road debris that got lodged in a bad spot. If you don’t find anything, remove the belt and try to manually spin the pulley. If you’re not able to spin the pulley or if it spins, but does not spin freely, you’re pulley bearing is shot. The only way to fix that is with a new pulley which essentially means doing the job you see me doing. I’d say you’re running on borrowed time with a seizes pulley. The friction and subsequent heat caused from the belt rubbing will eventually break the belt. Has the belt been changed recently? If so, make sure the correct size was used. Otherwise, I’d check and see if there is a way to use a shorter belt and bypass the AC unit altogether. That would be the cheapest and simplest option. Sorry to give bad news man. Best of luck.
Hey my 2010 Civic suddenly stopped blowing cold air. Relay's fine, I believe the R134 levels are OK, thermal sensor is closed. When I engage AC, I get +14v at the red wire between the two black ones on the harness that's attached to the alternator, so it is trying to engage the compressor. I'm 90% sure this is the issue.
How much time did this take? Also, would it be easier to notch the frame support to not have to unbolt the compressor from the housing?
Hello. It sounds like you’ve got the same issues as me as you said in your comment. If everything else checks out, it’s probably the stator/clutch assembly.
With filming, it took 6-7 hours. Without filming I bet I could do it in 3-4. I’ve got a decent amount of mechanical experience and most of the right tools of the trade. If you’re a beginner, prepare for double the time.
As far as notching the frame support: no, don’t do that. It’s not worth compromising the structural support. If you have the right tools and patience, you can do this job. Best of luck!
@@FastFixRUclips Oh I swap engines in a few hours (RWD models from the 80s lol), and I have replaced the compressors outright on a few of my cars before, just not with this level of depth. I'll need to see if my friend has some of those o/snap ring pliers, he's got more stuff than me, otherwise I have all I need (except the part). Thanks!
The Kombinator oh I gotcha. I usually assume most have limited mechanical experience and limited access to tools (as is usually the case). It sounds like you’ve got plenty of experience. I have zero doubt you can do this repair ability wise. Sounds like you just need the right pliers. Best of luck!
P.S. the only motors I’ve swapped are RWD too! 👍
great job sir, thanks for the detailed clip
You bet!
where can you look up the part number in your description for shim kit of the a/c system?
Hello. It's in the description. I provided a link for the kit there. Thanks for the question.