Yep, it’s amazing how much has to come off just to get to the rear main seal for sure on these lol. Worth it though if they were leaking as bad as mine was for sure though. All the best ! Steve
Good luck to you bud. My Escalade went from leaking rusted fuel pump to rusted and broken metal fuel line. Have to pull the trans to replace the fuel line and the rear main has been leaking oil for a minute anyway. I’m pulling it in the gravel and it’s gotta come out one way or another. 😮
Hey ! Indeed it probably would have helped folks…most times I forget to mention the sizes unless it was something special that isn’t in a standard tool box though unfortunately as I’m more focused on the next steps.
Hello, you can rotate the crank around to access the torque converter bolts without causing any damage to the rod or main bearings…there’s plenty of oil film between the bearings and the crankshaft for just rotating the crank a rotation or two. Actually, since most motors have a mechanical oil pump, each time you normally start the motor, there is no oil flowing for several rotations of the motor until the pump picks up the oil and starts supplying it to the system.
Hey man ! The black hose with the green plastic part a few inches up from the end is actually the tube that the transmission dip stick goes down into to check the transmission fluid level.
@@StevesDIYs thanks for responding. I have been trying to help a friend out with her 2007 6.2L Denali, it's leaking a bunch of oil over top of bell housing coming down the side. Don't think it's the rear main because it was done recently. After reading your comments, is it really possible that a valve cover defective gasket could cause oil to leak out over the bell housing? Oh and it's a bad leak, it's leaking a lot. I was suspecting the valley pan but not sure yet. I put some uv dye and still wasn't able to confirm the leak source. It's coming from above the bell housing. It looks dry inside the flex wheel inspection port too. Also not the oil pressure sensor because it was changed and I checked it anyway.
@@MrSilvernblackblood hey man ! That’s great that you are helping someone out 👍. When I did my valve cover gaskets on mine, they weren’t leaking too bad yet, but there was quite a bit of oil on the back of the motor from them since they are angled quite a bit on the sides of the motor. Fortunately it is a much much easier job to change them vs. pulling the transmission to do the rear main for sure. If you haven’t found it, attached is a link to me doing my valve covers on it from a couple of years ago as well. Just a thought…if it is the valve cover gaskets, you might be able to put a slight amount of air pressure into the oil fill (if you can find a way to seal the air line into the big hole) and then listen if you can hear air coming out. Might be easier just to change the gaskets though if the motor has some miles on it and they have never been done. Here’s the link just in case: ruclips.net/video/7gHizT6P2hU/видео.html . Hopefully you’ll find it 👍. Steve
Hello, not sure how much a shop would charge to do this job, but based on the number of hours to remove everything to replace the seal as a DIY, I would say a shop that does this everyday would have at least 8 hours of work to do the job plus the cost of the parts. Hope this helps 👍, Steve
"This is a heck of a job."
Truth!
Yep, it’s amazing how much has to come off just to get to the rear main seal for sure on these lol. Worth it though if they were leaking as bad as mine was for sure though. All the best ! Steve
I’m at this step wish me luck sir 🎉
Hey man ! Best of luck…I’m sure you’ll get it all apart and back together again 👍. All the best ! Steve
Good luck to you bud.
My Escalade went from leaking rusted fuel pump to rusted and broken metal fuel line. Have to pull the trans to replace the fuel line and the rear main has been leaking oil for a minute anyway. I’m pulling it in the gravel and it’s gotta come out one way or another. 😮
Would help if u mentioned mm size of each thing u just say to “take this off”
Hey ! Indeed it probably would have helped folks…most times I forget to mention the sizes unless it was something special that isn’t in a standard tool box though unfortunately as I’m more focused on the next steps.
did you just turn over the crank with no oil in it does that not seize the engine
Hello, you can rotate the crank around to access the torque converter bolts without causing any damage to the rod or main bearings…there’s plenty of oil film between the bearings and the crankshaft for just rotating the crank a rotation or two. Actually, since most motors have a mechanical oil pump, each time you normally start the motor, there is no oil flowing for several rotations of the motor until the pump picks up the oil and starts supplying it to the system.
Good video.
Thanks
Thanks 👍. All the best ! Steve
What's the black hose on the right hanging down called? Where does it connect to up above? Seen at 18:28
Hey man ! The black hose with the green plastic part a few inches up from the end is actually the tube that the transmission dip stick goes down into to check the transmission fluid level.
@@StevesDIYs thanks for responding. I have been trying to help a friend out with her 2007 6.2L Denali, it's leaking a bunch of oil over top of bell housing coming down the side. Don't think it's the rear main because it was done recently. After reading your comments, is it really possible that a valve cover defective gasket could cause oil to leak out over the bell housing? Oh and it's a bad leak, it's leaking a lot. I was suspecting the valley pan but not sure yet. I put some uv dye and still wasn't able to confirm the leak source. It's coming from above the bell housing. It looks dry inside the flex wheel inspection port too. Also not the oil pressure sensor because it was changed and I checked it anyway.
@@MrSilvernblackblood hey man ! That’s great that you are helping someone out 👍. When I did my valve cover gaskets on mine, they weren’t leaking too bad yet, but there was quite a bit of oil on the back of the motor from them since they are angled quite a bit on the sides of the motor. Fortunately it is a much much easier job to change them vs. pulling the transmission to do the rear main for sure. If you haven’t found it, attached is a link to me doing my valve covers on it from a couple of years ago as well. Just a thought…if it is the valve cover gaskets, you might be able to put a slight amount of air pressure into the oil fill (if you can find a way to seal the air line into the big hole) and then listen if you can hear air coming out. Might be easier just to change the gaskets though if the motor has some miles on it and they have never been done. Here’s the link just in case: ruclips.net/video/7gHizT6P2hU/видео.html . Hopefully you’ll find it 👍. Steve
How much does something like this cost?
Hello, not sure how much a shop would charge to do this job, but based on the number of hours to remove everything to replace the seal as a DIY, I would say a shop that does this everyday would have at least 8 hours of work to do the job plus the cost of the parts. Hope this helps 👍, Steve
I was quoted 3800
I was quoted 2300