Here’s what I did; I applied the BEHR garage floor paint, added the chips and put the rustoleum clear epoxy over it. I also put down those large parking mats to park my cars on to prevent hot tire pickup. It’s been 5 years, no issues and it all costed less than $300.
We are glad it helped you, Gil. We have found that more people than you think have purchased the wrong product because they did not know the difference.
This was such a helpful video I wish I had seen your video before I had applied epoxy shield to my floor . although I chose the right product for my product .I follow all instructions properly . called the company to make sure I understood all directions correctly. My problem with the epoxy shield kit was application, was too thin to do a full broadcast floor. Some of the vinyl chips did not stick leaving uniformed look.now I scraped off the vinyl chips and applied to clearcoat . The clearcoat was for two 2 car garage and My room in the basement is only 14‘ x 13‘ so I should’ve had plenty of clearcoat but as it turned out, I did not have enough clearcoat to cover all the chips, leaving me a rough surface. again, the application was too thin. so after all that work, grinding the basement floor prepping the basement floor filling in the cracks washing the floor . Now I have to sand the floor and add a couple more clear coats . 😢 just hoping that will do the trick. Because I am not ! so not doing this over again. if anyone has some good advice, I would deeply appreciate it
Hi Madeleine. The problem was choosing the wrong product. Full color flake applications require a commercial grade epoxy that is much thicker. A 100% solids epoxy should be used for a basement since it has zero VOCs. It is 4x thicker on average than EpoxyShield. The EpoxyShield Premium Clear Topcoat does not provide nearly enough material to properly cover a full flake application as well. Multiple coats would need to be applied. This is why they only provide a small amount of color chips and do not have instructions for a heavy flake application. EpoxyShield and other home improvement center coatings are thin to keep cost down and provide for easy application. Rust-Oleum and large chain stores do not want to sell high quality coating products that are more expensive and require good customer service to aid with application and other questions. This kit by Legacy Industrial is an example of what is required for a full color flake application: bit.ly/3vjHMBV I hope that helps.
I got an email where he said, Hey Scott. The short answer is yes. However, there are many implications to doing so. We have a video here that discusses this topic. ruclips.net/video/GKMzVCeO270/видео.html
Here’s what I did; I applied the BEHR garage floor paint, added the chips and put the rustoleum clear epoxy over it. I also put down those large parking mats to park my cars on to prevent hot tire pickup. It’s been 5 years, no issues and it all costed less than $300.
You definitely want to use a coating and not paint or 1-part epoxy paint. Don't use epoxy, though. It's not flexible and will crack if the floor flexes. A single-part polyurea is a great choice. It flexes, it's easier to apply, and it lasts longer. You can learn about them here, including where to purchase them: allgaragefloors.com/polyurea-best-garage-floor-coating-kits/
Hello what would you recommend for an enclosed trailer flooring ? Putting motorcycle inside. Sherwin Williams told me armorseal 8100. Another youtuber said 1000. They are both 2 part epoxy. What is good for wood?
So I have a 3 car garage. We do not and have never parked cars in the garage in 3 years and never plan too. We use the garage as a gym/ workshop area. Sometimes some sort of degreasers and oils will drip or spill but get cleaned up. What is best?
Hi William. A traditional 2-part epoxy product is always going to perform much better and cost less money in the long run. Paint is cheaper and easier to apply. Protection from spills and cosmetic damage is not good. It will wear in a couple years in areas of heavy foot traffic and need to be reapplied. If you just want a colored floor for mainly foot traffic and a workshop, then EpoxyShield would be the best bet for the budget. Just don't expect a real glossy look. Plus, it will stand up much better to oils or solvents that may be spilled in the workshop area.
Great Video!! I'm doing my basement floor, what type of respirator would you recommend? I'm using seal krete epoxy paint and the clear seal clear coat. Thanks
Hi Paul. The Seal-Krete epoxy paint is low VOC with less than 50 g/l VOC content. No respirator is needed. However, the Clear Seal by Seal-Krete has a higher VOC content. Satin and the optional Low VOC gloss finish have a VOC content of less than 100 g/l. Use an R95 respirator for paint and coating fumes.
Thank You. I was having trouble trying to figure out the proper respirator/mask, so I bought a 3M 6502 Half Face Mask with 60923 Filters (sounds like it may be overkill). For the first section, I used the Lockdown Concrete Bonding Primer, then the Seal Krete Epoxy paint, then the Clear Seal Satin No. 604. I couldn't smell anything with the respirator on, but when I was finished and removed the respirator, I was surprised at how bad the clear seal smell was on the basement level, but it made me wonder if I should be using it inside (even though it says its ok for basements) I also have a couple fans going and the basement windows open, just want to make sure I'm doing everything I can on my end. Thanks again!! @@allgaragefloors
Hi Paul. No, it's not too late. Paint and acrylic coatings do not chemically bond within a recoat window as true epoxy and other coating do. As long as the floor is clean, the acrylic clear coat will mechanically bond to the paint without further prep. If you need to clean the floor first, use a mild mixture of ammonia and water, rinse, and then let it completely dry before applying the clear.
Hi Majed. Porcelain tile was never coated over in the past because nothing would stick very well. However, there is a new product that we tested and reviewed for concrete that is also used for porcelain. It's called BallistiX. We detail this product in our article here: allgaragefloors.com/ballistix-clear-coat-sealers-review/ We also provide a link where you can purchase it. Make sure to call and ask questions first.
I think due to the windows, my epoxy floor now has a yellowing to it that really bugs me , so I want to repaint it, please tell me the steps to make and how to avoid the yellowing again ??
Hi Sam. We have an article that explains how to recoat an older epoxy coating here: allgaragefloors.com/prep-older-epoxy-for-new-coat/ Also, we have an article that discusses how how to prevent ambering (yellow tint) of garage floor coatings here: allgaragefloors.com/why-epoxy-coatings-turn-yellow/
Hi Trevor. Yes, that is correct. You need to let the 1-part epoxy paint dry completely and then scuff it up with 150-grit sandpaper. This allows the epoxy to adhere properly. However, we do not recommend doing this if you have not started your project yet. 1-part epoxy is the weak link. Despite the fact you want to apply a better quality and more expensive 2-part epoxy clear coat, it's still going to peel from hot tires if you park your car on it. The 2-part clear epoxy will adhere very well to paint. However, when the hot tires grip the clear coat, it will peel the entire coating at some point since the clear coat is attached to the 1-part epoxy paint which is attached to the concrete. It's like building a nice home on a sand foundation.
Hi Kyle. Epoxy is a coating that should be applied indoors only. Direct sunlight or strong indirect sunlight will cause the epoxy to amber (yellow tint). If the patio sees foot traffic only, then we recommend using an acrylic clear coat since they are U.V. stable. Solvent-based acrylics perform better than water-based, but either one should do fine with just foot traffic.
@@kylethomas2170 Ahh... We assumed you were coating bare concrete. All epoxy (color coat and clear) will amber and oxidize if exposed to sunlight for long periods. That is why it's used indoors and in garages. For a coating, you would need to use a polyurea, polyaspartic, or polyurethane. These are all U.V. stable. They also cost much more than EpoxyShield. EpoxyShield is the low-budget, low-performing (for garages), mass-produced option for garages. We would recommend looking at DuraGrade Concrete. We did an article on it here: allgaragefloors.com/duragrade-concrete-coating-review/ This coating is easy to apply, very durable, U.V. stable, and does not require etching in many cases.
FYI: I used the rustoleum epoxy shield many years ago and back then I mixed it together from separate cans! Last year I purchased the burst pack and it didn’t mix like it should which it caused me a lot of problems!!! Rustoleum reimbursed me for the cost. I do not recommend that new packaging.
Hi Keith. Citadel Floor Finishing Systems actually developed the burst pouch technology when they reformulated their RockSolid product. Rust-Oleum adopted the burst pouch when they purchased Citadel back in 2014. We agree that it can have some issues.
The burst pack didn’t fully mix well, it took a lot of pressure to break the seal that mixes the 2 products together. When they don’t fully mix, you then have a bad mixture.
I had some rustoleum in that burst pouch sitting in my garage for since about 2016. I finally found a project to use it on just the other day and it was still good. I cut the pouch along the burst seam and poured them into a bucket independent from one another and then mixed it by hand. I didn’t feel safe bursting the seam and mixing it in the package. Worked out fine. I would try to not use the mix in bag method if it were up to me.
Hey David. Since I prefer a light color flake option and tend to keep my garage door open for long periods (sun shines on parts of the floor), I would opt for a single-part polyurea color coat and clear coat. There is no mixing of two components, it has an unlimited pot life for easy application, and a very high wear resistance, stain resistance, and chemical resistance. Most importantly, it is UV stable and will not amber (yellow tint) like epoxy can. You can read about it here: allgaragefloors.com/polyurea-best-garage-floor-coating-kits/
I put the professional grade Rust-Oleum 2 part in my shop. I put a clear coat on it today and the clear coat seems to be beading up or something. I’m hoping it’s just the drying process of the clear coat. Clear coat is water based as well. In your opinion, does this sound correct?
Hi JD. That is a sign that the epoxy is repelling the product. What clear coat exactly did you use? Also, how long did you wait to apply it after applying the Rust-Oleum Professional?
@@jrizzledrizzle4697 Yikes. OK, we know what happened. The wrong product was used. Clear-Seal by Seal Krete is a water-based clear acrylic sealer that is not chemically compatible with a 2-part epoxy coating. Because you applied it within the 4-day recoat window for chemical adhesion, the Rust-Oleum Professional epoxy coating is rejecting it. To apply an acrylic, you would need to wait for the epoxy to fully cure, then rough it up with 150-grit sandpaper before application. Also, the number one rule for clear coats is that it should perform just as well if not better than the color coat. Acrylics are inferior to epoxy. What should have been used is Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield Clear Coat Epoxy. Cleaning up the mess is not fun. If it has not dried yet, we recommend wiping it up with a solvent such as Xylene, mineral spirits, or Acetone. You can then rough it up with 150-grit sandpaper, wipe the surface with denatured alcohol or equivalent, and then apply a clear epoxy. If it has already dried, you will need to sand the acrylic off down to the epoxy color coat. Don't worry about scratching up the color coat. The clear coat will make it all shine again.
Hello Bob. I completely missed this question, so sorry for the late reply. The ArmorPoxy epoxy systems are commercial quality and do very well in a garage environment. Jack stands, floor jacks, rolling toolboxes and etc. are not a problem. Just make sure you don't have any sharp edges on the jack stand feet. You can find ArmorPoxy products here: armorpoxy.com/
Unfortunately, we hear this all the time with the Rust-Oleum and similar water-based epoxy kits. That's why we state the chances are it will peel from hot tires, it's just a matter of when. This is why the more expensive commercial-quality kits are so much better. You get much more for your money in the long run and no peeling.
Yessir. Your metric equivalent to our Mils, in regards to the coatings industry, is Microns. Ironically, they sound like they belong to the opposite measurement family. It's never fun when an international coatings project is happening.
Hi Guillermo. If paint or 1-part epoxy paint (not 2-part epoxy) was used on the garage floor, then it's going to peel from hot tires at some point - period. That is what we tried to make very clear in the video. It does not matter that the proper clear coat was applied. If you don't want a problem with hot tires, then all the paint should be removed from the concrete, and a proper 2-part epoxy or similar coating applied. Paint or 1-part epoxy paint is not a long-term solution for a garage floor.
Hi John. Yes, it will perform much better without parking a car on it. Make sure the concrete is clean and dry before application. If you want to get the best adhesion, we would recommend a mild citric acid etch solution after cleaning the concrete.
Here’s what I did; I applied the BEHR garage floor paint, added the chips and put the rustoleum clear epoxy over it. I also put down those large parking mats to park my cars on to prevent hot tire pickup. It’s been 5 years, no issues and it all costed less than $300.
Yep, the key to keeping paint and 1-part epoxy paint peeling from hot tires is to use a car mat to park on.
Wow, what a great idea! So, it's very durable doing it that way? I was thinking of doing something like this on my home's interior floors.
Thank you for clarifying the difference between regular paint and epoxy! DIYer over here and was struggling to understand what to buy.
We are glad it helped you, Gil. We have found that more people than you think have purchased the wrong product because they did not know the difference.
Thank you soooo much for this video!! I’m so glad I found it before doing our garage floor. We would have hated all that work for nothing.
We are glad it helped!
This was such a helpful video I wish I had seen your video before I had applied epoxy shield to my floor . although I chose the right product for my product .I follow all instructions properly . called the company to make sure I understood all directions correctly. My problem with the epoxy shield kit was application, was too thin to do a full broadcast floor. Some of the vinyl chips did not stick leaving uniformed look.now I scraped off the vinyl chips and applied to clearcoat . The clearcoat was for two 2 car garage and My room in the basement is only 14‘ x 13‘ so I should’ve had plenty of clearcoat but as it turned out, I did not have enough clearcoat to cover all the chips, leaving me a rough surface. again, the application was too thin. so after all that work, grinding the basement floor prepping the basement floor filling in the cracks washing the floor . Now I have to sand the floor and add a couple more clear coats . 😢 just hoping that will do the trick. Because I am not ! so not doing this over again. if anyone has some good advice, I would deeply appreciate it
Hi Madeleine. The problem was choosing the wrong product. Full color flake applications require a commercial grade epoxy that is much thicker. A 100% solids epoxy should be used for a basement since it has zero VOCs. It is 4x thicker on average than EpoxyShield. The EpoxyShield Premium Clear Topcoat does not provide nearly enough material to properly cover a full flake application as well. Multiple coats would need to be applied. This is why they only provide a small amount of color chips and do not have instructions for a heavy flake application. EpoxyShield and other home improvement center coatings are thin to keep cost down and provide for easy application. Rust-Oleum and large chain stores do not want to sell high quality coating products that are more expensive and require good customer service to aid with application and other questions. This kit by Legacy Industrial is an example of what is required for a full color flake application: bit.ly/3vjHMBV I hope that helps.
Can I apply Epoxysheild on top of the Behr 1-part? I wish I found your video before I completed a room with that same Behr product.
I have the same question have you got an answer?
I got an email where he said,
Hey Scott. The short answer is yes. However, there are many implications to doing so. We have a video here that discusses this topic. ruclips.net/video/GKMzVCeO270/видео.html
Here’s what I did; I applied the BEHR garage floor paint, added the chips and put the rustoleum clear epoxy over it. I also put down those large parking mats to park my cars on to prevent hot tire pickup. It’s been 5 years, no issues and it all costed less than $300.
What would you recommend for a cargo enclosed trailer that would get water on the floor at times.
You definitely want to use a coating and not paint or 1-part epoxy paint. Don't use epoxy, though. It's not flexible and will crack if the floor flexes. A single-part polyurea is a great choice. It flexes, it's easier to apply, and it lasts longer. You can learn about them here, including where to purchase them: allgaragefloors.com/polyurea-best-garage-floor-coating-kits/
Hello what would you recommend for an enclosed trailer flooring ? Putting motorcycle inside. Sherwin Williams told me armorseal 8100. Another youtuber said 1000. They are both 2 part epoxy. What is good for wood?
So I have a 3 car garage. We do not and have never parked cars in the garage in 3 years and never plan too. We use the garage as a gym/ workshop area. Sometimes some sort of degreasers and oils will drip or spill but get cleaned up. What is best?
Hi William. A traditional 2-part epoxy product is always going to perform much better and cost less money in the long run. Paint is cheaper and easier to apply. Protection from spills and cosmetic damage is not good. It will wear in a couple years in areas of heavy foot traffic and need to be reapplied. If you just want a colored floor for mainly foot traffic and a workshop, then EpoxyShield would be the best bet for the budget. Just don't expect a real glossy look. Plus, it will stand up much better to oils or solvents that may be spilled in the workshop area.
Great Video!! I'm doing my basement floor, what type of respirator would you recommend? I'm using seal krete epoxy paint and the clear seal clear coat. Thanks
Hi Paul. The Seal-Krete epoxy paint is low VOC with less than 50 g/l VOC content. No respirator is needed. However, the Clear Seal by Seal-Krete has a higher VOC content. Satin and the optional Low VOC gloss finish have a VOC content of less than 100 g/l. Use an R95 respirator for paint and coating fumes.
Thank You. I was having trouble trying to figure out the proper respirator/mask, so I bought a 3M 6502 Half Face Mask with 60923 Filters (sounds like it may be overkill). For the first section, I used the Lockdown Concrete Bonding Primer, then the Seal Krete Epoxy paint, then the Clear Seal Satin No. 604. I couldn't smell anything with the respirator on, but when I was finished and removed the respirator, I was surprised at how bad the clear seal smell was on the basement level, but it made me wonder if I should be using it inside (even though it says its ok for basements) I also have a couple fans going and the basement windows open, just want to make sure I'm doing everything I can on my end. Thanks again!! @@allgaragefloors
EXCELLENT video!
👍
I applied seal krete 1 part epoxy floor paint and paint chips 8 days ago, can I still apply the clear seal clear coat or is it to late? Thank You!!
Hi Paul. No, it's not too late. Paint and acrylic coatings do not chemically bond within a recoat window as true epoxy and other coating do. As long as the floor is clean, the acrylic clear coat will mechanically bond to the paint without further prep. If you need to clean the floor first, use a mild mixture of ammonia and water, rinse, and then let it completely dry before applying the clear.
Thank you for all details
I have matt porcelain tile floors you have any products it can be applied on porcelain top to make it Glossy
Hi Majed. Porcelain tile was never coated over in the past because nothing would stick very well. However, there is a new product that we tested and reviewed for concrete that is also used for porcelain. It's called BallistiX. We detail this product in our article here: allgaragefloors.com/ballistix-clear-coat-sealers-review/ We also provide a link where you can purchase it. Make sure to call and ask questions first.
Very good explanation, Thank you!
You are welcome.
This video really helpful, you save my money.
Will the epoxy coating (2 part) have any effect on radon remediation systems?
Any effect it has will help radon mitigation systems. 2-part epoxy does not breathe and helps to block radon.
I think due to the windows, my epoxy floor now has a yellowing to it that really bugs me , so I want to repaint it, please tell me the steps to make and how to avoid the yellowing again ??
Hi Sam. We have an article that explains how to recoat an older epoxy coating here: allgaragefloors.com/prep-older-epoxy-for-new-coat/ Also, we have an article that discusses how how to prevent ambering (yellow tint) of garage floor coatings here: allgaragefloors.com/why-epoxy-coatings-turn-yellow/
If I used the behr 1 part epoxy I can topcoat it with the rust oleum epoxy correct? This is what you said in another video?
Hi Trevor. Yes, that is correct. You need to let the 1-part epoxy paint dry completely and then scuff it up with 150-grit sandpaper. This allows the epoxy to adhere properly. However, we do not recommend doing this if you have not started your project yet. 1-part epoxy is the weak link. Despite the fact you want to apply a better quality and more expensive 2-part epoxy clear coat, it's still going to peel from hot tires if you park your car on it. The 2-part clear epoxy will adhere very well to paint. However, when the hot tires grip the clear coat, it will peel the entire coating at some point since the clear coat is attached to the 1-part epoxy paint which is attached to the concrete. It's like building a nice home on a sand foundation.
Can i use epoxy sheild clear coat on my outdoor covered patio? Or will it yellow and not last long?
Hi Kyle. Epoxy is a coating that should be applied indoors only. Direct sunlight or strong indirect sunlight will cause the epoxy to amber (yellow tint). If the patio sees foot traffic only, then we recommend using an acrylic clear coat since they are U.V. stable. Solvent-based acrylics perform better than water-based, but either one should do fine with just foot traffic.
@allgaragefloors so will the acrylic clear coat over the epoxy sheild work? Or should I go with a different coating all together?
@@kylethomas2170 Ahh... We assumed you were coating bare concrete. All epoxy (color coat and clear) will amber and oxidize if exposed to sunlight for long periods. That is why it's used indoors and in garages. For a coating, you would need to use a polyurea, polyaspartic, or polyurethane. These are all U.V. stable. They also cost much more than EpoxyShield. EpoxyShield is the low-budget, low-performing (for garages), mass-produced option for garages. We would recommend looking at DuraGrade Concrete. We did an article on it here: allgaragefloors.com/duragrade-concrete-coating-review/ This coating is easy to apply, very durable, U.V. stable, and does not require etching in many cases.
FYI: I used the rustoleum epoxy shield many years ago and back then I mixed it together from separate cans! Last year I purchased the burst pack and it didn’t mix like it should which it caused me a lot of problems!!! Rustoleum reimbursed me for the cost. I do not recommend that new packaging.
Hi Keith. Citadel Floor Finishing Systems actually developed the burst pouch technology when they reformulated their RockSolid product. Rust-Oleum adopted the burst pouch when they purchased Citadel back in 2014. We agree that it can have some issues.
Hey what type of problems did you have ? I just purchased the kit and wanted to know what to look out for
The burst pack didn’t fully mix well, it took a lot of pressure to break the seal that mixes the 2 products together. When they don’t fully mix, you then have a bad mixture.
I had some rustoleum in that burst pouch sitting in my garage for since about 2016.
I finally found a project to use it on just the other day and it was still good.
I cut the pouch along the burst seam and poured them into a bucket independent from one another and then mixed it by hand.
I didn’t feel safe bursting the seam and mixing it in the package.
Worked out fine.
I would try to not use the mix in bag method if it were up to me.
Im going to dump it all in a bucket after the initial mix in the bag. I tried buying for amazon and alot of the epoxy was hard
Shane, what coating or product would you put on your own garage floor?
Hey David. Since I prefer a light color flake option and tend to keep my garage door open for long periods (sun shines on parts of the floor), I would opt for a single-part polyurea color coat and clear coat. There is no mixing of two components, it has an unlimited pot life for easy application, and a very high wear resistance, stain resistance, and chemical resistance. Most importantly, it is UV stable and will not amber (yellow tint) like epoxy can. You can read about it here: allgaragefloors.com/polyurea-best-garage-floor-coating-kits/
Thanks much
I put the professional grade Rust-Oleum 2 part in my shop. I put a clear coat on it today and the clear coat seems to be beading up or something. I’m hoping it’s just the drying process of the clear coat. Clear coat is water based as well. In your opinion, does this sound correct?
Hi JD. That is a sign that the epoxy is repelling the product. What clear coat exactly did you use? Also, how long did you wait to apply it after applying the Rust-Oleum Professional?
@@allgaragefloors I waited two days.
Clear seal made by seal krete from lowes
@@allgaragefloors how do I clean up this mess and what should I use? Lol. Can’t believe I did this
@@jrizzledrizzle4697 Yikes. OK, we know what happened. The wrong product was used. Clear-Seal by Seal Krete is a water-based clear acrylic sealer that is not chemically compatible with a 2-part epoxy coating. Because you applied it within the 4-day recoat window for chemical adhesion, the Rust-Oleum Professional epoxy coating is rejecting it. To apply an acrylic, you would need to wait for the epoxy to fully cure, then rough it up with 150-grit sandpaper before application. Also, the number one rule for clear coats is that it should perform just as well if not better than the color coat. Acrylics are inferior to epoxy. What should have been used is Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield Clear Coat Epoxy.
Cleaning up the mess is not fun. If it has not dried yet, we recommend wiping it up with a solvent such as Xylene, mineral spirits, or Acetone. You can then rough it up with 150-grit sandpaper, wipe the surface with denatured alcohol or equivalent, and then apply a clear epoxy. If it has already dried, you will need to sand the acrylic off down to the epoxy color coat. Don't worry about scratching up the color coat. The clear coat will make it all shine again.
@@allgaragefloors so the epoxy shield clear coat epoxy is also a 2 part correct?
Great lecture !!!
Glad you liked it!
Excellent tips.
Says epoxing coating not paint, so wh8ch is it???
What product are you referring to?
How does Armor stand up to floor jacks and jack stands?
Hello Bob. I completely missed this question, so sorry for the late reply. The ArmorPoxy epoxy systems are commercial quality and do very well in a garage environment. Jack stands, floor jacks, rolling toolboxes and etc. are not a problem. Just make sure you don't have any sharp edges on the jack stand feet. You can find ArmorPoxy products here: armorpoxy.com/
Mine retained the satin finish once it dried.
Thank you
Enlightening..
This video is worth thousands of dollars 😁👍
Lol... yes, it can be!
I used the garage epoxy kit and it still peeled up from my car!
Unfortunately, we hear this all the time with the Rust-Oleum and similar water-based epoxy kits. That's why we state the chances are it will peel from hot tires, it's just a matter of when. This is why the more expensive commercial-quality kits are so much better. You get much more for your money in the long run and no peeling.
So can't we sue them for lying about hot tire pick up
Unfortunately, the small print in their warranty discourages such. The key is to do your research before deciding on a purchase.
A sheet of paper is not 3mm thick. A sheet of paper is 0.05mm thick
Hi Shaun. The average thickness of a sheet of paper is 2.5 - 3.5 mils. Did I say millimeters? It's an easy mistake to make :)
@@allgaragefloors sorry. In the metric world we say mills as an abbreviation for millimetres. 👍
Yessir. Your metric equivalent to our Mils, in regards to the coatings industry, is Microns. Ironically, they sound like they belong to the opposite measurement family.
It's never fun when an international coatings project is happening.
Hi, paint pele happened to me, I did a clear coat over the paint, cause my costumer wants shining, naw, haw can I fix the paint pile from hot tires? 🛞
Hi Guillermo. If paint or 1-part epoxy paint (not 2-part epoxy) was used on the garage floor, then it's going to peel from hot tires at some point - period. That is what we tried to make very clear in the video. It does not matter that the proper clear coat was applied. If you don't want a problem with hot tires, then all the paint should be removed from the concrete, and a proper 2-part epoxy or similar coating applied. Paint or 1-part epoxy paint is not a long-term solution for a garage floor.
If I use seal Krete 1 part epoxy. I see they have a Clear Seal gloss. I don’t park my vehicle in the garage, so would this work out?
Ty
Hi John. Yes, it will perform much better without parking a car on it. Make sure the concrete is clean and dry before application. If you want to get the best adhesion, we would recommend a mild citric acid etch solution after cleaning the concrete.
@@allgaragefloors Ty I appreciate it.