I'm new to 3D printing, I got the Easythreed K9 several weeks ago. I got it because I didn't want to drop a lot of money at first until i saw if 3D printing was for me. Also it allowed me to get some extra supply's like filament. I think I've seen about Easythreed video, Here's some observations. Most don't mention when using CURA, You first have to install the printer profile from a file called K7.3mf, K9.3mf (Depending on which printer you have) its found on the micro SD card that comes with the printer. After that adjusting the settings based on your results will help. The magnetic print bed is good, But PLA can get stuck in the perforations. You can avoid that by using the blue painters tape on it. The tape still has good adhesion and gives a smooth bottom, if more adhesion is needed use a glue stick. Yes, using a better filament will improve the prints. The sample filament has been exposed o moisture, Putting it in a dehydrator improved its performance. (Ive been using the 250gram spools of Easythreed filament which has worked okay, they came in a vacuum sealed bag.) Tramming (leveling) the bed well makes a big difference, I started by using the paper method. But now I'm using a feeler gauge and have seen improved results. You should also check level after every couple of prints. I believe the bed could benefit from better springs. Dimensional accuracy is pretty good on the K9. I don't care for the SD card slot its hard to remove the card, I use the USB cable instead. The little spool holder only holds 250gram spools and is about useless. I don't feel bad about buying it Ive learned a lot, especially what to look for in a better printer. Note: The spool holder stl is nice ( I had a bag full of those bearings) but it is too big to print on the easythreed 100x100 area. I might be able to cut some edges off and get it on diagonally.
Can I ask if you are making your own designs from scratch or are you using template items? I have one of these on order and have played around with Cora and the downloaded default software, I was able to get a templated item off tinkercad that seemed really close to the main item I need to print with it (A hinge for a swinging door speaker (about 1/2" in height and 1/4" in diameter but with some flat edges, grooves and a bump in the middle) but I am having difficulties in removing the excess in the STL file I made in different softwares, I realize this is me being totally uninitiated in it, but if you have any pointers in softwares to use to help with this it would be appreciated since you have 5+ months experience here and probably went through what I am
I have one of these and have found out that it is great for small prints. It loses a lot of detail on more intricate prints but it think it is good for the money and to get some experience at 3d printing as I am also new to the hobby. If anything this printer has fired up my interest in this hobby.
My first printer was a k7, i didn't know much and it was cheap, so i bought it, learned everything i know working on it, saved money and bought an ender 3, the k7 is a good printer for it's price, but you really have to tinker with it lol
im planning on shoving it in a vacuum chamber for high pressure printing, i recently bought one and i see a lot of k1 creality mods. Could i outfit them to any printer?
heres some settings that i have and improved my quality: (on easyware) layer thickness: 0.1 shell thickness: 1.2 initial layer thickness: 0.3 print speed: 20 or 25 (20 helps a lot) travel speed:50 bottom speed: 10 infill speed: 20 top/bottom speed: 20 outher shell speed: 20 inner shell speed: 20 INFILL: top tickness: 12 bottom thickness: 12 fill desnity: 15 support type: everywhere adhesion:raft support ammount:15 for tiny easy prints and 25 for bigger harder prints support angle: 60 distance x/y; 07 distance z: 0.2 nozzle temperature: depends,but 180 is best or 190 hotbed temperature: 0 brim line ammount:20 the raft settings are the default and the retraction too
Thank you for providing your expertise and enhancements. I bought my K7 to teach myself whether 3D printing might compliment my other hobbies. Cost and simplicity were primary considerations. I used Easyware K7 to convert your Filament Guide and Filament Roller .STL files to K7's gcode format. When I tried to print the filament guide, the print head would clog. Initially I thought it was caused by the lack of a brim. I realized the supplied filament was the cause and changed it. The Support Brace was too large for the K7 build plate as you indicated. I decided to print 2 extra filament guides that I'll attach to the Y-axis end and the base, using a wooden dowel to facilitate the Z-axis movement. I have one question that anyone can answer: Is there a solvent that can soften the brim filament residual on the build plate without doing any damage? Thanks again for your excellent evaluation and improvements on the EasyThreed K7.
@@DoItYourselfDad So far I managed my very first self-designed print. I found Slic3r would copy the settings from one of the manufacturer files so I've done that for now. I have to tweak them as for some odd reason they have it programmed for a heated bed.
@@DoItYourselfDad Thanks. I wasn't spectacular but it was nice to be able to print it. What I want to do now is to make some trusses that can be screwed together for a solar-tracking project.
At the speed this printer is printing, the yellow guide mod does not have any effect since the print head only moves in Z and X direction.. Only the bed rocks back and forth in Y direction. Thomas Sanladerer did some nice mods to the printer on his channel
Thanks for the review. My EZ3D X1 does well with TPU. And you indeed need to tweek the slicer settings and i've been able to get consistent smooth prints granted I've been using my printer for more than 3 years now unmodified well except for a filament guide i placed on top as well.
I bought an X1 which has been fine, but bought a K9 for while we're with the wife's parents, and wow: the bed has 1mm slop at the corner, like the tubes are too small for the runners, making it hard to tram in; the head has visible sag when it hits the bed during homeing; the supplied PLA won't even feed in, despite having arrived vacuum packed; the unload switch position just feeds my purchased filament further in; and the first thing i printer melted itself onto the magnetic bed. You don't make a point of showing off the bed slop, so I'm guessing you can't wiggle the corner by 1mm with a gentle finger. I'm pretty sure I would have noticed that on my X1 at home, so I'm concluding I have a bad K9 (k9f9).
Thank you for this video, I recently made a 'Help Needed' video about my Christmas Present of the X2 (same machine)that I've been having problems with and someone sent me the link to this video (before RUclips deleted the comment 🤨 why does it do that now?!) but yes this is much more helpful than many of the comments telling me to change settings and change the nozzle etc. I can't however get the profile to open in Cura though, (yet).
I’ve watched a few of your videos now and great stuff overall man. I myself became a dad little over 2 years ago so I have not been able to keep up with my videos. Hoping that changes soon but keep it up!
For Easythreed K7 Support Brace and Cura Profile i need a combine version like piece by piece together. I can't print large object straight because I am still using a small 3d printer too and need to revive this EasyThreed K7 Printer for children. Anyway I like your video.
When I watched a few reviews of EasyThreed printers, almost all of them looked very unreliable mechanically. Notably X1, K7, K9 where Z-axis is on one side. So after looking at local marketplace I got K1 version, its Z-axis is placed at both sides of the bed and doesn't require additional support. And it doesn't have this terrible 3-position switch for loading/unloading filament and has proper buttons instead. Although after visiting EasyThreed subreddit, it was mildly amusing to see how people extend working area of X1/K7 by adding bigger rods and belts and then changing firmware. A structure downside turned into upside.
i have seen videos of people modifying the easythreed k9. giving it more power and also more stiffness. i would really appreciate a video of someone trying / managing to extend the printing dimensions and exchanging the bed against a 200mm * 200mm printing heated bed for either of those printers. seing how either would be upgraded would make my decision easier for wich of both i can go. tinkering plus having the opportunity to build on the initial setup witha low starting budget would really be inspiring.
It would be a neat to see something like that, Im just not sure the cost/benifit would work out with the prices things are going for now. The MC5's were just under $150....
I got a K7 for my son, but he seems to have got the extrusion nozzle completely clogged up 😢 Any good ideas on how to ungum it ? I got the filament out, but I can't get new filament to feed in.
Sounds like it may be clogged up. I'd let it heat up completely and then get a nozzle cleaning tool and see if you can clean it out. If that doesn't work trying doing a "cold pull" by heating it up, inserting a new filament as far in as you can get it, then shut it down and let it cool. Once cold start heating it up again while pulling the filament out, once it's warm enough to be free from the nozzle it may come out in one full plug, start pulling as soon as it starts heating, you want the filament to stay as solid as possible.
I don’t have any experience with this particular bed, but I’ve used PEI beds on other printers and they’re amazing. I just stumbled on this one on Amazon: a.co/d/emLT9P8
It is actually mainly marketed as a KIDS TOY than an actual 3D printer from what I have seen, It is just RUclipsRS that bought into it making it out to be crap as it's $80... Then you have RUclipsrs like Chuck AKA CHEP that did and actual review much like yours and he was the first to come out as a RUclipsr with an Honest review and it actually does way better with TPU than with PLA. After I saw the Review Chuck did I got one myself (Being a South African this $80 printer costed me an arm and leg as my only options are from direct from China stores as Amazon does not ship these to my home....) So with import cost delivery fees and what not this was almost as expensive as my Biqu B1 3D printer... The reason I got it was just for TPU printing and Chuck was 100% legit in his review as it prints TPU without any problems... This is now my dedicated small parts TPU printer and I do a lot of model cars and this bed is big enough for those wheels I want in TPU or anything else I want in TPU that is on smaller scale... For me it means I do not have to change a nozzle between prints and change bed leveling between prints coz TPU does not want to be squished as much to the bed as PLA does and TPU wants to be printed slow and so this printer is perfect for TPU.
@@DoItYourselfDad Well i was considering this since boardgame inserts are around 25-50$ so using this to print inserts for few games in my collection should return in investment quite fast. But since often devil is in the details(and cheap things have tendency to become expensive in RL) i do not know if this would be good solution.
@@i20918 If you are experienced in 3D printing, or are comfortable with tinkering and tuning to get it to work right this will work for you. I've done a lot of 3d printing and getting this one to work correctly took a bit of trial and error. The AnkerMake Mc5 was just on sale for around $150 and it many, many times better of a printer than this one. Just my two cents.
excellent video. I began with it and as you said it was a horrible experience. 2 times out of 3 would stop in the middle of a print. after a lot of tries I discovred I had to disable the fan for it to work. After this I had to change the Z motor. now The printer prints too high (20 mm calibration cube comes out with a height of 40) and I can't find any info on how to calibrate the Z axis. Piece of garbage, I regret not buying a 200$ one
uno: hay que añadir un ventilador más grande de frente al estrusor por el lado del filamento para que siempre lo mantenga firme sino se ablanda y ya no lo puede jalar, dos: hay que añadir una pequeña extensión con refrigeración y ventilador incluido, entre la salida del estrusor y la boquilla esto para evitar que se caliente hacia arriba y ablande el filamento de entrada, tres: sino se utiliza cama caliente imprimir las primeras capas a poca velocidad y poca altura o arrimar un poco más la cama a la boquilla para que se adhiera más el material, cuatro: no utilizar temperaturas tan altas ya que como va lento se ablanda mucho el material depositado y se vuelve chicloso, para esto ir probando desde 180 hasta 200, yo lo dejo entre 180 y 195 y funciona, cinco: añadir soportes pero separarlos un poco más de la figura sino es más difícil quitarlo, cinco: en la x9 añadirle bujes de latón en las guías de los ejes para darle más firmeza ya que vienen de platico y se aflojan rápido por el desgaste...suerte con eso y buen video...
For another $20 you could get an Ender 3, for that reason I think this printer is more of a novelty machine than an actual 3d printer. It would be a great gift though for someone who likes to tinker with things.
Slow down the print speed, make sure the bed is completely clean (with rubbing alcohol), triple check the bed leveling, and make sure your using decent filament (not the stuff it comes with).
I'm new to 3D printing, I got the Easythreed K9 several weeks ago. I got it because I didn't want to drop a lot of money at first until i saw if 3D printing was for me. Also it allowed me to get some extra supply's like filament.
I think I've seen about Easythreed video, Here's some observations.
Most don't mention when using CURA, You first have to install the printer profile from a file called K7.3mf, K9.3mf (Depending on which printer you have) its found on the micro SD card that comes with the printer.
After that adjusting the settings based on your results will help.
The magnetic print bed is good, But PLA can get stuck in the perforations. You can avoid that by using the blue painters tape on it. The tape still has good adhesion and gives a smooth bottom, if more adhesion is needed use a glue stick.
Yes, using a better filament will improve the prints. The sample filament has been exposed o moisture, Putting it in a dehydrator improved its performance. (Ive been using the 250gram spools of Easythreed filament which has worked okay, they came in a vacuum sealed bag.)
Tramming (leveling) the bed well makes a big difference, I started by using the paper method. But now I'm using a feeler gauge and have seen improved results. You should also check level after every couple of prints. I believe the bed could benefit from better springs.
Dimensional accuracy is pretty good on the K9. I don't care for the SD card slot its hard to remove the card, I use the USB cable instead. The little spool holder only holds 250gram spools and is about useless.
I don't feel bad about buying it Ive learned a lot, especially what to look for in a better printer.
Note: The spool holder stl is nice ( I had a bag full of those bearings) but it is too big to print on the easythreed 100x100 area. I might be able to cut some edges off and get it on diagonally.
Can I ask if you are making your own designs from scratch or are you using template items? I have one of these on order and have played around with Cora and the downloaded default software, I was able to get a templated item off tinkercad that seemed really close to the main item I need to print with it (A hinge for a swinging door speaker (about 1/2" in height and 1/4" in diameter but with some flat edges, grooves and a bump in the middle) but I am having difficulties in removing the excess in the STL file I made in different softwares, I realize this is me being totally uninitiated in it, but if you have any pointers in softwares to use to help with this it would be appreciated since you have 5+ months experience here and probably went through what I am
I love my k7 but highly recommend hooking it up to octoprint or a beaglecam. Major quality of life upgrade.
I have one of these and have found out that it is great for small prints. It loses a lot of detail on more intricate prints but it think it is good for the money and to get some experience at 3d printing as I am also new to the hobby. If anything this printer has fired up my interest in this hobby.
My first printer was a k7, i didn't know much and it was cheap, so i bought it, learned everything i know working on it, saved money and bought an ender 3, the k7 is a good printer for it's price, but you really have to tinker with it lol
Mine was the K8 plus it actually worked pretty well just out of the box, it was 200 $ though.
im planning on shoving it in a vacuum chamber for high pressure printing, i recently bought one and i see a lot of k1 creality mods. Could i outfit them to any printer?
heres some settings that i have and improved my quality: (on easyware)
layer thickness: 0.1
shell thickness: 1.2
initial layer thickness: 0.3
print speed: 20 or 25 (20 helps a lot)
travel speed:50
bottom speed: 10
infill speed: 20
top/bottom speed: 20
outher shell speed: 20
inner shell speed: 20
INFILL:
top tickness: 12
bottom thickness: 12
fill desnity: 15
support type: everywhere
adhesion:raft
support ammount:15 for tiny easy prints and 25 for bigger harder prints
support angle: 60
distance x/y; 07
distance z: 0.2
nozzle temperature: depends,but 180 is best or 190
hotbed temperature: 0
brim line ammount:20
the raft settings are the default and the retraction too
Thanks! Saving these settings for the next time I use it. I assume thi sis for PLA?
@@DoItYourselfDad yep!
Can you post it in 3mf format for Cura?
Can you make more videos on this 3D Printer? Such as how to get the most out of this machine and some tweaks as well
Thank you for providing your expertise and enhancements. I bought my K7 to teach myself whether 3D printing might compliment my other hobbies. Cost and simplicity were primary considerations. I used Easyware K7 to convert your Filament Guide and Filament Roller .STL files to K7's gcode format. When I tried to print the filament guide, the print head would clog. Initially I thought it was caused by the lack of a brim. I realized the supplied filament was the cause and changed it. The Support Brace was too large for the K7 build plate as you indicated. I decided to print 2 extra filament guides that I'll attach to the Y-axis end and the base, using a wooden dowel to facilitate the Z-axis movement. I have one question that anyone can answer: Is there a solvent that can soften the brim filament residual on the build plate without doing any damage? Thanks again for your excellent evaluation and improvements on the EasyThreed K7.
I have this printer. I'm happy that you put some settings up. I'll have to try them on sl3er.
Let us know how they work for you!
@@DoItYourselfDad So far I managed my very first self-designed print. I found Slic3r would copy the settings from one of the manufacturer files so I've done that for now. I have to tweak them as for some odd reason they have it programmed for a heated bed.
@@britishtechguru Congrats on your first self designed print!!!
@@DoItYourselfDad Thanks. I wasn't spectacular but it was nice to be able to print it. What I want to do now is to make some trusses that can be screwed together for a solar-tracking project.
At the speed this printer is printing, the yellow guide mod does not have any effect since the print head only moves in Z and X direction.. Only the bed rocks back and forth in Y direction.
Thomas Sanladerer did some nice mods to the printer on his channel
I was still able to see wobble from the torque of the motor, pulling back-and-forth on the belt. It may not be much, but it was something.
Thanks for the review. My EZ3D X1 does well with TPU. And you indeed need to tweek the slicer settings and i've been able to get consistent smooth prints granted I've been using my printer for more than 3 years now unmodified well except for a filament guide i placed on top as well.
I bought an X1 which has been fine, but bought a K9 for while we're with the wife's parents, and wow: the bed has 1mm slop at the corner, like the tubes are too small for the runners, making it hard to tram in; the head has visible sag when it hits the bed during homeing; the supplied PLA won't even feed in, despite having arrived vacuum packed; the unload switch position just feeds my purchased filament further in; and the first thing i printer melted itself onto the magnetic bed.
You don't make a point of showing off the bed slop, so I'm guessing you can't wiggle the corner by 1mm with a gentle finger. I'm pretty sure I would have noticed that on my X1 at home, so I'm concluding I have a bad K9 (k9f9).
Thank you for this video, I recently made a 'Help Needed' video about my Christmas Present of the X2 (same machine)that I've been having problems with and someone sent me the link to this video (before RUclips deleted the comment 🤨 why does it do that now?!) but yes this is much more helpful than many of the comments telling me to change settings and change the nozzle etc.
I can't however get the profile to open in Cura though, (yet).
Would using a glue stick to make the bed more adhesive work?
It would, but once I got the bed properly leveled and nozzle height correct I really didn't run into issues with bed adhesion.
I’ve watched a few of your videos now and great stuff overall man. I myself became a dad little over 2 years ago so I have not been able to keep up with my videos. Hoping that changes soon but keep it up!
Congrats on becoming a Dad! Parenting is definitely a full time job, I just subscribed and would love to see some new videos!
@@DoItYourselfDad ha thanks man! I will try and see what I can do
The profile from the site is not imported into Cura versions 3.6.0 and 5.8.1. Can you post it again in 3mf format?
For Easythreed K7 Support Brace and Cura Profile i need a combine version like piece by piece together. I can't print large object straight because I am still using a small 3d printer too and need to revive this EasyThreed K7 Printer for children. Anyway I like your video.
6:58 Where can I find the Cura settings changes you mentioned in the video? Thanks. I have this 3d printer...
I have them linked in the description, they are in one of my thingiverse downloads. Let me know if you have difficulty finding it.
@@DoItYourselfDad Thanks! found it and yes, I'm daft. I now see that you do say Cura profile in your description.
All good, best of luck! @@typhaeon7959
When I watched a few reviews of EasyThreed printers, almost all of them looked very unreliable mechanically. Notably X1, K7, K9 where Z-axis is on one side.
So after looking at local marketplace I got K1 version, its Z-axis is placed at both sides of the bed and doesn't require additional support.
And it doesn't have this terrible 3-position switch for loading/unloading filament and has proper buttons instead.
Although after visiting EasyThreed subreddit, it was mildly amusing to see how people extend working area of X1/K7 by adding bigger rods and belts and then changing firmware. A structure downside turned into upside.
i have seen videos of people modifying the easythreed k9. giving it more power and also more stiffness. i would really appreciate a video of someone trying / managing to extend the printing dimensions and exchanging the bed against a 200mm * 200mm printing heated bed for either of those printers. seing how either would be upgraded would make my decision easier for wich of both i can go. tinkering plus having the opportunity to build on the initial setup witha low starting budget would really be inspiring.
It would be a neat to see something like that, Im just not sure the cost/benifit would work out with the prices things are going for now. The MC5's were just under $150....
Super interesting thanks
I got a K7 for my son, but he seems to have got the extrusion nozzle completely clogged up 😢 Any good ideas on how to ungum it ? I got the filament out, but I can't get new filament to feed in.
Sounds like it may be clogged up. I'd let it heat up completely and then get a nozzle cleaning tool and see if you can clean it out. If that doesn't work trying doing a "cold pull" by heating it up, inserting a new filament as far in as you can get it, then shut it down and let it cool. Once cold start heating it up again while pulling the filament out, once it's warm enough to be free from the nozzle it may come out in one full plug, start pulling as soon as it starts heating, you want the filament to stay as solid as possible.
I wonder if those same issues are present with the K6 model, which has two towers holding the print head and a screen as well.
For the price of the K6, there are MUCH better printers out there.
Is Benchy another word for widget? Thx
It's called "benchy" because it's used as a bench mark print when testing 3d printers.
I happened to damage my bed. I am wondering if you can suggest a replacement or link it? maybe show us how to make a new one?
I don’t have any experience with this particular bed, but I’ve used PEI beds on other printers and they’re amazing. I just stumbled on this one on Amazon: a.co/d/emLT9P8
It is actually mainly marketed as a KIDS TOY than an actual 3D printer from what I have seen, It is just RUclipsRS that bought into it making it out to be crap as it's $80... Then you have RUclipsrs like Chuck AKA CHEP that did and actual review much like yours and he was the first to come out as a RUclipsr with an Honest review and it actually does way better with TPU than with PLA. After I saw the Review Chuck did I got one myself (Being a South African this $80 printer costed me an arm and leg as my only options are from direct from China stores as Amazon does not ship these to my home....) So with import cost delivery fees and what not this was almost as expensive as my Biqu B1 3D printer... The reason I got it was just for TPU printing and Chuck was 100% legit in his review as it prints TPU without any problems... This is now my dedicated small parts TPU printer and I do a lot of model cars and this bed is big enough for those wheels I want in TPU or anything else I want in TPU that is on smaller scale... For me it means I do not have to change a nozzle between prints and change bed leveling between prints coz TPU does not want to be squished as much to the bed as PLA does and TPU wants to be printed slow and so this printer is perfect for TPU.
Interesting, I hadn't though about trying anything other than PLA in it as I've always had the best luck with PLA. Time to give TPU a chance now!
Just found where its print speed is 10 - 40 mm/s most budget printers are around 250 mm/s, where a decent printer is 500 -700 mm/s
nice your video... but the nozzle includes 0.4 or 0.2mm diameter??
.4
What is the scale of the filament roller?
What do you mean?
There's a way to extend the print area from 100mm to 200mm?
No?
Hi, i was wandering if this would be a good solution for making boardgame inserts?
Yes and no. It’s small so it would work, but the print quality isn’t that great. What’s your budget?
@@DoItYourselfDad Well i was considering this since boardgame inserts are around 25-50$ so using this to print inserts for few games in my collection should return in investment quite fast. But since often devil is in the details(and cheap things have tendency to become expensive in RL) i do not know if this would be good solution.
@@i20918 If you are experienced in 3D printing, or are comfortable with tinkering and tuning to get it to work right this will work for you.
I've done a lot of 3d printing and getting this one to work correctly took a bit of trial and error. The AnkerMake Mc5 was just on sale for around $150 and it many, many times better of a printer than this one. Just my two cents.
excellent video. I began with it and as you said it was a horrible experience.
2 times out of 3 would stop in the middle of a print. after a lot of tries I discovred I had to disable the fan for it to work.
After this I had to change the Z motor. now The printer prints too high (20 mm calibration cube comes out with a height of 40) and I can't find any info on how to calibrate the Z axis.
Piece of garbage, I regret not buying a 200$ one
How can i find the details whats the name of the details
What details are you looking for?
Can you print PET from plastic water bottles
Not with this printer, no
@@DoItYourselfDad do you know a printer (less than $200) that I can print PET??? Please 🙏🏿
uno: hay que añadir un ventilador más grande de frente al estrusor por el lado del filamento para que siempre lo mantenga firme sino se ablanda y ya no lo puede jalar, dos: hay que añadir una pequeña extensión con refrigeración y ventilador incluido, entre la salida del estrusor y la boquilla esto para evitar que se caliente hacia arriba y ablande el filamento de entrada, tres: sino se utiliza cama caliente imprimir las primeras capas a poca velocidad y poca altura o arrimar un poco más la cama a la boquilla para que se adhiera más el material, cuatro: no utilizar temperaturas tan altas ya que como va lento se ablanda mucho el material depositado y se vuelve chicloso, para esto ir probando desde 180 hasta 200, yo lo dejo entre 180 y 195 y funciona, cinco: añadir soportes pero separarlos un poco más de la figura sino es más difícil quitarlo, cinco: en la x9 añadirle bujes de latón en las guías de los ejes para darle más firmeza ya que vienen de platico y se aflojan rápido por el desgaste...suerte con eso y buen video...
There is one thing for this printer there noone did - no Orca slicer instruction at all, cura is from box, but orca can be better, maybe
I've never played around with Orca....
I got a weedo one for 60 bucks and it performs way better. For 80 it's insane how bad this is.
Damn that's a deal, where did you find a Weedo for $60??
For another $20 you could get an Ender 3, for that reason I think this printer is more of a novelty machine than an actual 3d printer.
It would be a great gift though for someone who likes to tinker with things.
That sample filament is terrible
Agreed!
Absolutely
The printer really isn't worth it considering the price of the kp3s.
bro didnt even level it then complained about build quality and adhesion 😢
I didn’t show a step by step assembly, but I certainly did level it, multiple times and at multiple heights.
@@DoItYourselfDad oh ok
What settings would you put for beginners?? I have this and I’m printing dragons but if you have advise for a newbie would be much appreciated
Slow down the print speed, make sure the bed is completely clean (with rubbing alcohol), triple check the bed leveling, and make sure your using decent filament (not the stuff it comes with).