One thing I noticed after being a US Navy Electricians Mate for 4 years in the 60s on an Aircraft Carrier, your electronic/electric controls enclosure is not waterproof or even watertight. That will turn into a big problem someday! In my experience especially out on the deck, even the most robust waterproof enclosures always leaked some water and at times saltwater or moisture shorted out terminal strips, and sometimes big contractors built for damp environment service shorted out. On all US Navy ships, all electrical enclosures are waterproof, no matter where they are located even the fluorescent lamp fixtures, it took unloosing 20 stainless steel machine screws to even change the fluorescent lamps or ballast, and in those days there were no small battery-powered screwdrivers available. Be sure to have a quick easy workaround for manually putting your dingy in the water during an emergency, This is a critical life support unit! I've enjoyed your build project very much and kind of sad to see it near completion and I sure we will see many new adventures as you sail from port to port on your journey. Good Luck and Thank You!
Doug: What did you make today? Me: I'm building a plywood sailing dinghy (Argie 15) and putting it on RUclips! Seriously, I want to thank you for all the hard work you do to share with us your journey. It is inspiring to see the evolution of your project and the tenacity you demonstrate. A special thanks for sharing with us the power of habits. I use it for my project. I'm 46 but, as a joke, I want to say that when I will grow up, I want to build a big aluminum sailboat like Doug! Thank you! Benoit from Quebec, Canada
Love your project. Been following you for years. As an experienced boater in the Pacific I think you are underestimating the effects of salt water and salt air on anything electrical/electronic. Bring lots of spares!
Excellent work on that layout. VFDs are perfect for adjusting the speed on machine tools. Takes a little to sort them out first time, but now wouldn’t want to be without them.
AUGUST well be a Historical month!! Really like all the research that is done on each system of the boat and details shown on the each videos. Fantastic Work Doug and to all the individuals that come out and help you on SV-SEEKER.
I’d elongate the holes in the motor mounting plate, attach two lugs with a 5/16 bolt through the centre so you take up the slack and compensate for wear and get the alignment spot on. I’ve only just started watching so I hope nobody minds my chipping in,really enjoyed watching and it’s worth supporting.
Love the progress as always Doug! Excited you have a in the water date. I’m glad your the one testing all these ideas out and not me haha. I was paranoid about corrosion on electrics on my little 27. My brain tells me corrosion will be an issue on a lot of these parts just because the salt in the atmosphere, but I’m excited to bc see how it holds up! I like the non traditional methods
Yes. Although nothing replaces hands on experience in building the systems for your boat. Id never ocean sail without going over every system in a boat
Hey Doug, it's probably fine as it is, but you could slot the davit winch mounting holes on the transom so you can tension the chain a bit more by lowering the winch.
Hi Doug I've been following you and the build for a long time and I think you've done a very good job in it, about the VFD if you configure the stop time to ( 0 ) you don't need the emergency power off for that because when you press stop the vfd will cut immediately the power that way the electrical brake will work as you want, you also have one function on the vfd to input current to the motor to lock it, keep up the good work and be safe
I really enjoy watching this project progress and the passion you have for it! As much as I enjoy the building aspects of the video I find that I look forward to the end where you show some projects from others that have been submitted! Perhaps you could add a few more in on the end of each video OR make a smaller video with only project submissions at the end of the boat build as a way to help celebrate the completion and show off others projects?!? Keep up the amazing work! I am up in Canada and would love to be able to see this boat one day in person!
Nice work guys. Another successful project on Seeker. With the distance the remote works you could raise the lifting straps when you leave and then lower them on your way back to Seeker. Saves having pirates climbing aboard while everyone is on shore leave. Take care all and have a great weekend.
Once you get the weight of the tender with any equipment, if you find it goes out on overload, increase the ramp time (I've installed industrial VFD's)
Great work again Doug! Nice shroud over that motor brake to keep the sand ‘n’ salt out and she’s a good un! Love that VSD sound, we have 2.5MW (3300 horsepower) VSDs at work and they sound awesome 😎👍👍
Hi from sweden! I love your videos but as a wormgeardesigner with 20 years experience I must point out that not all wormgears are self locking, a gear with less ratio and somewhat higher pitch angle on the worm screw can be driven backwards just like a ordinary gearbox!
Doug, before the launch, make sure to go around the boat and make a survey of all the things you wish you had done, that you now can do, let's say late June. Keeping in mind that rough seas are tough for a boat and most things will need to be IP66 or better. Not for some autocratic reasons, but for "mission critical" operations. Besides, the USCG will have to approve SV Seeker at some point, right?
Yup a motor free spinning is a generator. That power will back feed into the VFD and the electronic control is shut off because the supply power was killed. The power generated will damage the VFD in the long run. VFD’s are designed to be used as a E-stop. Meaning they should have an e-stop safety circuit dedicated just for this application. You don’t cut the power to VFDs like that. But who knows theses China VFD are nice/cheap but not full function. Looks like the gear reduction box, sprocket reduction, and reduction at the webbing should prevent any free spinning during an e-stop. But this would definitely not be the way to e-stop a large rotating mass like a pump or blower which will free spins as it powers down. That power has to be sent some where like ballast resistor.
Great video!! If you use an off delay timer for the brake, the break will last a lot longer. If you don`t use same ramp time for up and down, you need 2 off delay timers triggered by the up/down relays.
Easy to fix the chain tension .... add a shim plate under the bearing mounts at each end of the pipe (shaft). It looks like about 1/8 or 3/16 plate would be perfect. even washers would work for testing purposes.
Neversneeze...so good to put on things that are going to try and rustweld themselves together. @13:34 Your connections have whiskers. These aren't high amp connections, but you still don't want them since it is a good habit to get into. Just twisting the ends of the wires together befor putting them in the terminal is enough. Ideally, a fork connector crimped or soldered on the end is the best practice, but not really needed in this application since the wiring is so simple.
I think you need to be able to adjust for tension on the chains. I reckon there's way too much slack. Think about when the boat is rolling. Could induce the chain to climb over the sprocket.
Wonderful electric davit system. Perhaps you might want to consider placing a simple collar on the shaft with holes for a lever and a pawl just in case you ever find yourself with a dinghy in the water and no electrical power.
My thought as well. I don’t know if this will be used as a “lifeboat” or FRB (Fast Rescue Boat) but It would be important to.be able to launch the boat without any power as well as recover the boat without power. Another enhancement would to be sure the winch drum shaft is positively locked so as not to deploy accidentally with a chain failure or brake failure. Finally, Lifeboat Davit systems include a limit switch to prevent the lifting of boat beyond the “Stowed” position, which is when the boat hits the stops but the winch doesn’t stop and the straps part.
Hi Doug, Love your channel. I have an idea to help your VFD/brake setup. They make a cooldown timer that you can set to keep power applied to items for a preset time and is adjustable to tenths of a second. I think they make them to go up to ten second which would delay the brake going on until the VFD stops. I use one on my race car to make an overdrive unit sync with the shifting of my trans. I will try to get more info for you. Keep up the awesome work.
On the chain you could use a sprocket tensioner. Arm bolt down with movement small sprocket w/bearing and tensioner spring take the slack out of chain. I use it on a motorcycle I fix for a friend works great.
Tip; those yellow plugs. If they are standard you could have a phase flip adapter (like a short extension cord). Also useful if you need to power other gear that might be wired wrong. In Europe we have CEE plugs where you can switch place of two pins in the male prong. Very convenient and might exist for your "freedom standard" too ;)
It is so cool to see so many people come and volunteer to help out with the building of this boat. Do you still have the guestbook of everyone that has helped? Thanks for the videos!
The brakes on our motors at work are an instant stop but they look beefier than what you have on the end of your motor there. The more load you have on it the quicker it will stop though. The only thing I would say is if you depend on it to hold up the load of the tender I would be wary that it might hold it at first and when you get wear over time the motor might start slipping and letting the tender move back down if your brake is not beefy enough. There are half links to take up that slop in the chain too.
Danfoss vfds can be set in "lifting" mode that runs the motor differently and operates the brake optimally :) edit: like enabling power to the motor to take the load before disengaging the brake it will also handle ALL the e-stop stuff, you wouldn't need single relay... all logic can be programmed. they go for araound 100$ used for 3 ph 3kw
You can program the inverter to keep the motor warm in cold climates, this has the advantage of preventing condensation forming on the inside of the motor ,this would extend the service life.
For the chain slack, you could use a "half link", or make slots for the motor bolts. That way you could tention the chain perfectly and, over time when the chain wears, easily retention it again. 👍
Nice work ,this inverters use to have a function that shut off the output and let the motor stop free , is easy to burn the inverter if made a mistake with the output , always better to interrupt the input.
Lots of very clever stuff Doug! If you ever get tired of fixing all those electronic gizmos remove the electric motor and plug in a good old hydraulic motor, they don't mind the briny being sprayed over them.
Excellent work, really question the longevity in a Marine environment ? It’s February, how about a test, a light saline spray mist on this work, and see where it’s at in 90 days ?
Just curious; since the motor and gearbox were ment for indoors, is the motor and connector box waterproof considering they are exposed to the weather and seas? Looks good.
Be careful putting a disconnect between the vfd and the load (motor) they make special disconnects with early break contacts that will shut the vfd down before power is cut to the load. Will fry your drive over time without those early break contacts in the disconnect
You should watch one of the latest video of “bums on a boat”, it’s about a steel boat diy by one single very smart gentleman. The engineering of this steel boat will blow you out of the water! He did everything from scratch including cutting down trees for all the interior woodwork. He engineered everything so that any part of the mechanism that broke could be bought at any hardware store across the globe. All you’re subscribers should check it out, and learn for their next diy steel boat build. And last but not least, one man nine year build.
On your chain the max slack you want is tight as you can get it on a fix based, the chain consider wore out at 1.5% stretch. That chain will stretch over time from being used. You possibly could take out a full link and install a half link to tighten it up some. On adjustable base 3% wear, and the chain really long and rides across steel plate 5% of height.
Vibration might be from no oil or might not like being mounted sideways. Small grub screw in the side is your oil level when mounted flat. Little mounting plate with slots for tension adjustment should fix all your problems.
in your vfd model I think is the (P00.11 and P00.12) value has to be ( 0 ), that way when you press stop it will cut power immediately to the motor, (P01.08 ) set to ( 1 )
Doug uses the internal relay of the VFD to control the brake relay (needs parameterization to assign the function to an auxiliary internal relay). In this way, the engine does not run against the brake and the stopping position can be more precise (VFD applies the brake when the engine rotation stops). From experience you can't rely on the engine brake. Another second system must be implemented to secure the load in the up position.
Did you consider mounting on a sub base with slotted mounting holes to enable chain adjustment. As the chain has done a bit of work it will stretch so adjustment will be required
13:40 Doug i would recommend getting terminals crimped on those relay connections and then smear a bit of dielectric grease or silicon paste on top to prevent corrosion. the sea breeze will turn those connection into green mold in a heartbeat. I'd recommend to do it to all connections. Also is the wall mounted control box water resistant? Its going to be splashed occasionally. Also for the chain tightening you can shim the motor base. I actually thought you were going to weld a thicker base plate to prevent wall warping due twisting load on the sprockets.
your stern hand rail panel is vibrating put a stiffing bar vertically down the panel each end of motor for tender winch and at the same time put some slots in to adjust tension on drive chain
@SV Seeker - I love it. I'm from the Industrial Automation Group and i'm programming PLC's and Servo's and/or Frequency drives with decentralized I/O systems for around 30 years and have done big and small projects. Man that would be a cool project with a Display, PLC and Safety. I would love to do it but i'm from Europe so i get no chance to help you.
Just as a side point not all worm drives are "self locking" Ford model AA pickups had a worm drive rear end, they can back drive because they have 2 or 3 leads on the worm, but generally a large ratio single lead worm will not back feed.
Doug, something to consider is some how keeping the salt water off the brake drum or disc,since it appears to be exposed and the corrosion on the drum or disc will be ruined.
Yes and give the brake som lubrimacation too. I had to do that at work since one such brake wouldn't let go even when powered up since the parts were stuck with rust.
It sounds like the brake is activating before the ramp down (the click from the motor). Normally you would use a control output from the drive (in this case looks like terminal Y1) to activate the brake when the motor is at zero speed or fault. The motor sounds a bit noisy (electrically) on ramp up / down, most drives will have an 'auto tune' option in the menus to help with this. Could be wrong in this specific case as info is only from a video, but over the years I have wired hundreds of motor drive combinations. Just a heads up on this one as I suspect you will get pretty heavy wear on the brake with the way you have it, so it will start slipping.
you can change some parameters to reduce the ramp down time (so it will stop in a few tenths of a second, there's a minimum depending on the drive, can't remember if 0 is an option).
Hey Doug, I think 5 second ramps are way too long especially the up, when you reach the top it will be important for the winch to stop in say half a second, on the way down a bit longer is OK so the lifting gear can be loose enough to unhook but still maybe 2 seconds there. Cheers from Oz.
@@SVSeeker They are independently adjustable, Accel and Decel. The VFD MAY be programmed for Coast to Stop, but CAN be programmed for Ramp to Stop at which point it would use the Decel ramp to set the time to do so.
I’m sure someone already said it, but you should be able to set the vfd to coast stop rather than ramp down. Then it will stop instantly all the time. Otherwise you’ll burn up your brake.
So how much storage have you amassed with all of the videos? I've been watching since you just had a website with Argonaut Jr. I imagine if you saved even just the edited work that would have pilled up into a ton over the years.
seems well done to me.. have you given any thought to using the same remote for the deck winch?? it looks like it has enough unused buttons it could be used for that as well with some sort of similar set up...
Yep, the cover was not sitting correctly into the screw slots (the first time he put it on :-) )and one needs to put a seal on this cover. Also, those unused wires need to be taped up or put on a wiring nut. Else, they are bound to created gremlins in the future, touching each others or the back of the box.
I know what you'll say. it's all down to your appetite for risk. However in Industry, E-stop contactors are often run in parallel (two contactors in series), and interlocked with the VFD, so that the VFD receives an inhibit signal if the E-stop is pressed.
One thing I noticed after being a US Navy Electricians Mate for 4 years in the 60s on an Aircraft Carrier, your electronic/electric controls enclosure is not waterproof or even watertight. That will turn into a big problem someday! In my experience especially out on the deck, even the most robust waterproof enclosures always leaked some water and at times saltwater or moisture shorted out terminal strips, and sometimes big contractors built for damp environment service shorted out. On all US Navy ships, all electrical enclosures are waterproof, no matter where they are located even the fluorescent lamp fixtures, it took unloosing 20 stainless steel machine screws to even change the fluorescent lamps or ballast, and in those days there were no small battery-powered screwdrivers available. Be sure to have a quick easy workaround for manually putting your dingy in the water during an emergency, This is a critical life support unit! I've enjoyed your build project very much and kind of sad to see it near completion and I sure we will see many new adventures as you sail from port to port on your journey. Good Luck and Thank You!
That was my first idea. Many material connections steel/aluminium/brass on the deck and this plus sea water means corossion.
Doug: What did you make today?
Me: I'm building a plywood sailing dinghy (Argie 15) and putting it on RUclips!
Seriously, I want to thank you for all the hard work you do to share with us your journey. It is inspiring to see the evolution of your project and the tenacity you demonstrate. A special thanks for sharing with us the power of habits. I use it for my project. I'm 46 but, as a joke, I want to say that when I will grow up, I want to build a big aluminum sailboat like Doug! Thank you! Benoit from Quebec, Canada
Manuals for the boat are going to get written; for sure. BrotherMan's got the A-Team!
I always learn something watching the SV Seeker. Great Video!!!
You need slots for that drive motor mount to properly tension your chains or you will have problems later as they stretch or wear out.
Was going to comment exactly this.
also the chain needs to be properly tensioned or it will jump. possibly jump off entirely.
I love the innovation that's been put into this boat.
Yes, homebrew.
One tip, check if the Chinese remote has a secure link with the wall unit. You would not like it when a random walki-talki actives the tender system
Love your project. Been following you for years. As an experienced boater in the Pacific I think you are underestimating the effects of salt water and salt air on anything electrical/electronic. Bring lots of spares!
VERY specific info on the winch motor. Not sure I'll ever need it but I'll be the life of parties. Haha.
Excellent work on that layout.
VFDs are perfect for adjusting the speed on machine tools.
Takes a little to sort them out first time, but now wouldn’t want to be without them.
Hé Doug, where are the children 6 years ago. It was wonderfull to see them with you. The way you react to them is awesome. It was a pleasure to watch.
Parents put them in a monastery. : )
Boat launching on my 21st birthday, and I will 100% be watching the livestream.
AUGUST well be a Historical month!! Really like all the research that is done on each system of the boat and details shown on the each videos. Fantastic Work Doug and to all the individuals that come out and help you on SV-SEEKER.
I can't believe you tricked us all into reading the manual!
I’d elongate the holes in the motor mounting plate, attach two lugs with a 5/16 bolt through the centre so you take up the slack and compensate for wear and get the alignment spot on. I’ve only just started watching so I hope nobody minds my chipping in,really enjoyed watching and it’s worth supporting.
Great video Doug. I think you can get half links for those chains. Cheap too.
SOLID SV SEEKER, watching here n Riyadh, KSA. Glad that we have an update of your boat, I really waiting for the next level..
Love the progress as always Doug! Excited you have a in the water date. I’m glad your the one testing all these ideas out and not me haha. I was paranoid about corrosion on electrics on my little 27. My brain tells me corrosion will be an issue on a lot of these parts just because the salt in the atmosphere, but I’m excited to bc see how it holds up! I like the non traditional methods
Whenever a new video comes out I know I’m going to have a peaceful few minutes of amazing content. Hope all is well !
Thanks Doug for these 1587 seconds, always a pleasure to watch !! Following you since de Origami Folding.
"The videos are the manuals" Since we have all watched them, we all know how the boat works.
No need to watch the elevator video. Now, how do we make the skiff up winch work?!? 🤯
Yes. Although nothing replaces hands on experience in building the systems for your boat. Id never ocean sail without going over every system in a boat
Can i sail it
Read these instructions in a dangerous situation, without electricity, without internet.
This is the most interesting video manual I've ever watched. Keep up the great work!
awe4some effort everyone. Its humbling to watch this project and its professionalism. Well done.
Hey Doug, it's probably fine as it is, but you could slot the davit winch mounting holes on the transom so you can tension the chain a bit more by lowering the winch.
6 Months 3 days to go. Another interesting saga of the boat the internet built.
Cheers Doug and all.
Hi Doug I've been following you and the build for a long time and I think you've done a very good job in it, about the VFD if you configure the stop time to ( 0 ) you don't need the emergency power off for that because when you press stop the vfd will cut immediately the power that way the electrical brake will work as you want, you also have one function on the vfd to input current to the motor to lock it, keep up the good work and be safe
I really enjoy watching this project progress and the passion you have for it! As much as I enjoy the building aspects of the video I find that I look forward to the end where you show some projects from others that have been submitted! Perhaps you could add a few more in on the end of each video OR make a smaller video with only project submissions at the end of the boat build as a way to help celebrate the completion and show off others projects?!? Keep up the amazing work! I am up in Canada and would love to be able to see this boat one day in person!
Nice work guys. Another successful project on Seeker. With the distance the remote works you could raise the lifting straps when you leave and then lower them on your way back to Seeker. Saves having pirates climbing aboard while everyone is on shore leave. Take care all and have a great weekend.
Once you get the weight of the tender with any equipment, if you find it goes out on overload, increase the ramp time
(I've installed industrial VFD's)
🤔 Best try... now!
Great work again Doug! Nice shroud over that motor brake to keep the sand ‘n’ salt out and she’s a good un! Love that VSD sound, we have 2.5MW (3300 horsepower) VSDs at work and they sound awesome 😎👍👍
Another great Video Doug! x
Hi from sweden! I love your videos but as a wormgeardesigner with 20 years experience I must point out that not all wormgears are self locking, a gear with less ratio and somewhat higher pitch angle on the worm screw can be driven backwards just like a ordinary gearbox!
There are half chain links if you want to get the chains a little tighter but can't take a full link off, great video as always Doug.
August! So excited!
Looking great Doug, if you want to tension your chain you can buy half links, take a full one out and whack in a half link.
Doug, if you slot the motor mount holes you'll be able to take up any slack in the chain drive as it wears, just a thought
Doug, before the launch, make sure to go around the boat and make a survey of all the things you wish you had done, that you now can do, let's say late June. Keeping in mind that rough seas are tough for a boat and most things will need to be IP66 or better. Not for some autocratic reasons, but for "mission critical" operations. Besides, the USCG will have to approve SV Seeker at some point, right?
All of the VFD's have a low voltage Enable/Disable input that I use for the e-stop rather than killing all power.
I doubt the VFD will like losing power like that many times over while the engine is comutating.
Yup a motor free spinning is a generator. That power will back feed into the VFD and the electronic control is shut off because the supply power was killed. The power generated will damage the VFD in the long run. VFD’s are designed to be used as a E-stop. Meaning they should have an e-stop safety circuit dedicated just for this application. You don’t cut the power to VFDs like that. But who knows theses China VFD are nice/cheap but not full function. Looks like the gear reduction box, sprocket reduction, and reduction at the webbing should prevent any free spinning during an e-stop. But this would definitely not be the way to e-stop a large rotating mass like a pump or blower which will free spins as it powers down. That power has to be sent some where like ballast resistor.
Great video!! If you use an off delay timer for the brake, the break will last a lot longer. If you don`t use same ramp time for up and down, you need 2 off delay timers triggered by the up/down relays.
Easy to fix the chain tension .... add a shim plate under the bearing mounts at each end of the pipe (shaft). It looks like about 1/8 or 3/16 plate would be perfect. even washers would work for testing purposes.
Neversneeze...so good to put on things that are going to try and rustweld themselves together. @13:34 Your connections have whiskers. These aren't high amp connections, but you still don't want them since it is a good habit to get into. Just twisting the ends of the wires together befor putting them in the terminal is enough. Ideally, a fork connector crimped or soldered on the end is the best practice, but not really needed in this application since the wiring is so simple.
I think you need to be able to adjust for tension on the chains. I reckon there's way too much slack. Think about when the boat is rolling. Could induce the chain to climb over the sprocket.
Not sure if anyone has mentioned it, but you may need a limit switch so someone doesn’t accidentally over lift the tender
We don't have stupid crew. : )
A cut off at the top is a very good plan with the power of that motor
Wonderful electric davit system. Perhaps you might want to consider placing a simple collar on the shaft with holes for a lever and a pawl just in case you ever find yourself with a dinghy in the water and no electrical power.
My thought as well. I don’t know if this will be used as a “lifeboat” or FRB (Fast Rescue Boat) but It would be important to.be able to launch the boat without any power as well as recover the boat without power. Another enhancement would to be sure the winch drum shaft is positively locked so as not to deploy accidentally with a chain failure or brake failure. Finally, Lifeboat Davit systems include a limit switch to prevent the lifting of boat beyond the “Stowed” position, which is when the boat hits the stops but the winch doesn’t stop and the straps part.
Hi Doug, Love your channel. I have an idea to help your VFD/brake setup. They make a cooldown timer that you can set to keep power applied to items for a preset time and is adjustable to tenths of a second. I think they make them to go up to ten second which would delay the brake going on until the VFD stops. I use one on my race car to make an overdrive unit sync with the shifting of my trans. I will try to get more info for you. Keep up the awesome work.
On the chain you could use a sprocket tensioner. Arm bolt down with movement small sprocket w/bearing and tensioner spring take the slack out of chain. I use it on a motorcycle I fix for a friend works great.
Tip; those yellow plugs. If they are standard you could have a phase flip adapter (like a short extension cord). Also useful if you need to power other gear that might be wired wrong.
In Europe we have CEE plugs where you can switch place of two pins in the male prong. Very convenient and might exist for your "freedom standard" too ;)
It is so cool to see so many people come and volunteer to help out with the building of this boat. Do you still have the guestbook of everyone that has helped? Thanks for the videos!
Yes we do
The brakes on our motors at work are an instant stop but they look beefier than what you have on the end of your motor there.
The more load you have on it the quicker it will stop though.
The only thing I would say is if you depend on it to hold up the load of the tender I would be wary that it might hold it at first and when you get wear over time the motor might start slipping and letting the tender move back down if your brake is not beefy enough.
There are half links to take up that slop in the chain too.
Danfoss vfds can be set in "lifting" mode that runs the motor differently and operates the brake optimally :)
edit: like enabling power to the motor to take the load before disengaging the brake
it will also handle ALL the e-stop stuff, you wouldn't need single relay... all logic can be programmed. they go for araound 100$ used for 3 ph 3kw
@@marcryvon Yeah, but perhaps it can help somebody else doing the same thing :)
You can program the inverter to keep the motor warm in cold climates, this has the advantage of preventing condensation forming on the inside of the motor ,this would extend the service life.
For the chain slack, you could use a "half link", or make slots for the motor bolts. That way you could tention the chain perfectly and, over time when the chain wears, easily retention it again. 👍
Nice work ,this inverters use to have a function that shut off the output and let the motor stop free , is easy to burn the inverter if made a mistake with the output , always better to interrupt the input.
Outstanding video! Thanks!
A little wobbly is good and you can roast a pig. I like the remote for self launch and retrieval.
Lots of very clever stuff Doug! If you ever get tired of fixing all those electronic gizmos remove the electric motor and plug in a good old hydraulic motor, they don't mind the briny being sprayed over them.
On my vintage motorcycles I use half or cranked links in the chain.
Excellent work, really question the longevity in a Marine environment ? It’s February, how about a test, a light saline spray mist on this work, and see where it’s at in 90 days ?
I used the exact same remote control for winch !
Just curious; since the motor and gearbox were ment for indoors, is the motor and connector box waterproof considering they are exposed to the weather and seas? Looks good.
Hell No
@@SVSeeker LOL. Is that a 'Hell no and I don't care" or a "Hell no and I'm finding a way to protect it all from salt water"?
@@smmoffat Hell No, it's not waterproof. : )
@@kayakook Don't give up so easy Dick. It's a simple fix.
Just got my own place and I wanted to get the poster of Doug's rules. Bummed that their not available
Be careful putting a disconnect between the vfd and the load (motor) they make special disconnects with early break contacts that will shut the vfd down before power is cut to the load. Will fry your drive over time without those early break contacts in the disconnect
brace that motor for me that's going to drive me nutz knowing .... lol
You should watch one of the latest video of “bums on a boat”, it’s about a steel boat diy by one single very smart gentleman. The engineering of this steel boat will blow you out of the water! He did everything from scratch including cutting down trees for all the interior woodwork. He engineered everything so that any part of the mechanism that broke could be bought at any hardware store across the globe. All you’re subscribers should check it out, and learn for their next diy steel boat build. And last but not least, one man nine year build.
doug probably mentioned you should be able to buy a half link or offset link. for the roller chain.
On your chain the max slack you want is tight as you can get it on a fix based, the chain consider wore out at 1.5% stretch. That chain will stretch over time from being used. You possibly could take out a full link and install a half link to tighten it up some. On adjustable base 3% wear, and the chain really long and rides across steel plate 5% of height.
Vibration might be from no oil or might not like being mounted sideways. Small grub screw in the side is your oil level when mounted flat. Little mounting plate with slots for tension adjustment should fix all your problems.
in your vfd model I think is the (P00.11 and P00.12) value has to be ( 0 ), that way when you press stop it will cut power immediately to the motor, (P01.08 ) set to ( 1 )
Shiver me timbers.
Doug uses the internal relay of the VFD to control the brake relay (needs parameterization to assign the function to an auxiliary internal relay). In this way, the engine does not run against the brake and the stopping position can be more precise (VFD applies the brake when the engine rotation stops). From experience you can't rely on the engine brake. Another second system must be implemented to secure the load in the up position.
Did you consider mounting on a sub base with slotted mounting holes to enable chain adjustment. As the chain has done a bit of work it will stretch so adjustment will be required
Отличная работа!
Will the green crustys in the push buttons on the back deck effect operation? Maybe a liberal amount of electrical grease would be worth the time?
13:40 Doug i would recommend getting terminals crimped on those relay connections and then smear a bit of dielectric grease or silicon paste on top to prevent corrosion. the sea breeze will turn those connection into green mold in a heartbeat. I'd recommend to do it to all connections. Also is the wall mounted control box water resistant? Its going to be splashed occasionally. Also for the chain tightening you can shim the motor base. I actually thought you were going to weld a thicker base plate to prevent wall warping due twisting load on the sprockets.
your stern hand rail panel is vibrating put a stiffing bar vertically down the panel each end of motor for tender winch and at the same time put some slots in to adjust tension on drive chain
Looking good aa always.
@SV Seeker - I love it. I'm from the Industrial Automation Group and i'm programming PLC's and Servo's and/or Frequency drives with decentralized I/O systems for around 30 years and have done big and small projects. Man that would be a cool project with a Display, PLC and Safety. I would love to do it but i'm from Europe so i get no chance to help you.
16:47 Who had a voice in his head going : Make the noise ?
Just as a side point not all worm drives are "self locking" Ford model AA pickups had a worm drive rear end, they can back drive because they have 2 or 3 leads on the worm, but generally a large ratio single lead worm will not back feed.
Doug, something to consider is some how keeping the salt water off the brake drum or disc,since it appears to be exposed and the corrosion on the drum or disc will be ruined.
Yes and give the brake som lubrimacation too. I had to do that at work since one such brake wouldn't let go even when powered up since the parts were stuck with rust.
Needs a smiling twisty man label on the shaft just for kicks
shafts are nothing to play with. in a shaft accident you lucky if you just loose an arm
Best series on the internet.
It sounds like the brake is activating before the ramp down (the click from the motor). Normally you would use a control output from the drive (in this case looks like terminal Y1) to activate the brake when the motor is at zero speed or fault. The motor sounds a bit noisy (electrically) on ramp up / down, most drives will have an 'auto tune' option in the menus to help with this. Could be wrong in this specific case as info is only from a video, but over the years I have wired hundreds of motor drive combinations. Just a heads up on this one as I suspect you will get pretty heavy wear on the brake with the way you have it, so it will start slipping.
Nice
0 days without a finger injury
you can change some parameters to reduce the ramp down time (so it will stop in a few tenths of a second, there's a minimum depending on the drive, can't remember if 0 is an option).
The bigger the glob, the better the job!
Hey Doug, I think 5 second ramps are way too long especially the up, when you reach the top it will be important for the winch to stop in say half a second, on the way down a bit longer is OK so the lifting gear can be loose enough to unhook but still maybe 2 seconds there.
Cheers from Oz.
There is no ramp down.
@@SVSeeker They are independently adjustable, Accel and Decel. The VFD MAY be programmed for Coast to Stop, but CAN be programmed for Ramp to Stop at which point it would use the Decel ramp to set the time to do so.
I’m sure someone already said it, but you should be able to set the vfd to coast stop rather than ramp down. Then it will stop instantly all the time. Otherwise you’ll burn up your brake.
With the fantastic array of shop tools you own, really surprised you don't have a bearing puller to remove those sprockets.
Perhaps put a green light on the JB to show if the system is powered up? You mentioned having to "remember to turn it off!"
Surprised you put that motor controller in the pilot house rather than on the ceiling in the room below.
are you going to cover up the motor by puting it in a box so the wether destroys it
No bow thruster, mo manual, it's gonna blow up!!!
A cutoff switch to be extra safe?
Who are you and what’ve you done with the real Doug?! 😂
Ha! Chris did that work. : )
So how much storage have you amassed with all of the videos? I've been watching since you just had a website with Argonaut Jr. I imagine if you saved even just the edited work that would have pilled up into a ton over the years.
Terabytes
seems well done to me.. have you given any thought to using the same remote for the deck winch?? it looks like it has enough unused buttons it could be used for that as well with some sort of similar set up...
if you use the analog output of the inverter to actuate the brake contactor, it will act next to the motor
Careful about humidity and your drive. Where I work we have a ton of problems where the humidity knocks out the drive.
Yep, the cover was not sitting correctly into the screw slots (the first time he put it on :-) )and one needs to put a seal on this cover. Also, those unused wires need to be taped up or put on a wiring nut. Else, they are bound to created gremlins in the future, touching each others or the back of the box.
I know what you'll say. it's all down to your appetite for risk. However in Industry, E-stop contactors are often run in parallel (two contactors in series), and interlocked with the VFD, so that the VFD receives an inhibit signal if the E-stop is pressed.