3D prints for your fish room and aquariums
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- Опубликовано: 27 ноя 2021
- Just a quick overview of the many 3D prints I have designed and use in my fish room. Many of the prints are available online and linked below. Hopefully this will provide ideas and inspiration on ways you can use your 3D printer for your hobby or aquariums. And, if you are an aquarist without a 3D printer, this may give you some ideas of how useful one can be.
many of the prints I do are very custom to my needs, so I have only published the ones that I thought may be useful for a broader audience. However, if you saw something you like that isn’t linked below, drop me a comment and I will publish it for public use.
Links:
Air Valve Mounting bracket
www.thingiverse.com/thing:514...
Adjustable Frag Rack Egg Crate standoffs
www.thingiverse.com/thing:514...
Copepod Filter
www.thingiverse.com/thing:514...
Aquarium/bucket hose retainer
www.thingiverse.com/thing:514...
Water level sensor mount
www.thingiverse.com/thing:514...
Music:
“Fonkee_Ride” from the RUclips Music Library
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Nice! Great ideas, thanks for making this!
Awesome dude! You have some great ideas!
This is Mark Pyle.
Hey! I came across your video by searching for 3d printing stuff fir my tanks. I'm also in the Dallas area too. Nice to meet a fellow local aquarist and 3d printing junkie....and I suspect a copepod and phytoplankton culturer. 👍
Yes sir! nice to meet you also - you have a ton of nice vids ill have to check out - particularly from a fellow DFWMAS member :-)
@@BlueBladeFish Thank you. I'll be at the swap coming up in November. If you remember, stop by and say hello at my table. I'll be the guy with pods, phyto and 3d printed stuff 🙂
Hello! Nice vid. Any updates on the PLA you left underwater? It seems to me that ABS and PETG are much safer when it comes to this sort of stuff.
so far no difference at all with the PLA vs PETG. both are holding up fine with no sign of deterioration. coralline algae grows on both at the same rate. honestly, the PLA should be the "safer one" - lactic acid is very natural. the worry was that it would not last.
Hello have you ever thought of 3d printing blocks with large surface area infill which can be used instead of bio balls but still give a large surface area?
so it can definitely be done. there are some who have an activated carbon infused filament that print filter blocks also. but, all said and done, open cell foam is much better as a porous bio-medium, and its cheap. but I have played with the idea to print rocks/decorations with high porosity. the issue is, it floats.
I just bought a Neptune 3 Pro 3D printer. I love it and also looking for ideas for my fish hobby. PETG still holding up well for you? Thanks
both PLA and PETG do fine. PLA can be a tad brittle, and the PETG can be harder to print crisp threads.
Long time aquarist both fresh and salt over the years. Currently switching back to fresh planted new to 3-D printing. I know this video is about a year old. What if anything have you noticed about material concerns in the tanks in the last year yes PLA still holding up is Petg just better? I would love an updated opinion from you. Thank you.
so, for parts that get wear (like screw threads) PETG is sturdier - but those same parts often need tight tolerances which PETG is not great for. for the most part I have been happy with PLA using more walls/high infill.
can you give us an update on how the PLA is holding up in your aquarium. or any other 3D printing material.
both the PLA and PETG are holding up equally well under water. no signs of decomposition, and coralline algae coat both.
Did you have to coat the PLA in anything to make it aquarium-safe for the fish?
hello! well - there could be a lot to say on it - but the short answer is "no" - PLA is safe. Poly-Lactic Acid would make an excellent Bio-Medium if it broke down\degraded under aquarium conditions, but it does not. the pigments might be an issue if it broke down - but again, it does not. it is Biodegradable only in high temperature Bio-reactors. the material is food safe, but it isn't recommended to use (or rather re-use) 3d prints as tableware because of the porosity (bacteria/ you cant really wash it well)
what software do you use for modeling?
I have been happy with autodesk fusion 360. though for simple things i sometimes just hack it out in TinkerCAD.
I must say, I love your 3d printed objects to organize your aquarium. I'd like to ask you for your help with something, I'd like to contract you to make me two 3d printed decorative pieces for my aquariums. I have two aqueon 10 gallon tanks. Everything I've found so far in the decorative aspect has been either too big or too small. I already have the designs, which is basically two existing top fin decorations combined into one. Please, let me know if you can help.
Thank you! as for the decorations - i may not be the best source for that. if by having the designs you mean 3d models ready to print - there are print shops all set up who know the ins and outs of that service out there already, or if you want the DIY aspect there are maker spaces set up in most cities (often in public libraries) that could help you hands on. if you need it modeled, that is a bit tougher. I haven't quite ventured into the grid editing/sculpting/artistic side of CAD to the point that i would claim proficiency. To be honest - if what you ultimately want is a decoration that is just a merge of two existing, I would probably use a hacksaw and some epoxy putty and just merge the ones you like into one manually. that is a very common method for example for building rockscapes in reef aquariums.
@@BlueBladeFish Awesome, I hadn't thought of that. Thanks for the reply 👍
Any updates on the durability of the materials of water
so far, the water doesn't seem to play a significant role. the same prints left in air got a bit more brittle after a year - in water they stayed strong with no sign of deliration. but that said - i have had some break in another tank, where i have a single stand holding up a platform with a pot on it. after a few bumps it eventually breaks off where the threaded rod meets the base. it is just too much torque for a 3 wall print - i have started printing with more walls and that seems to be working - but ill keep testing. but the issue seems to be in the design or implementation, not the material choice (ABS and PETG have had the same fault)
Any new updates with using PLA? Printing PETG is not fun. Thanks
PLA works fine. the main issue with it can be a bit brittle (both in and out of water). so there is a need to print more walls/Higher infill. But I have not seen any degradation in the water. The only failures I have had were at repeated stress points, usually along the layers.
How is the PLA going one year after it?
holding up great. underwater there are no issues. in air, i may have seen it get brittle after some time. it may also be just bad layer adhesion - almost always if there is a break it is where the threaded rod meets the body. i have started using more infill/parameters to combat that.
Try 4-6 perimeters in Petg that will be bullet proof. With infill be mindful of bouyancy.
I make wet moulding for leather, that go in arbour presses with 6 peri and 40-50% rectilinear infill. They don’t crush or warp so should be good start for your projects.