I love videos like this and I love the old Ford tractors. I own several 1970 models that my father bought new that have less then 1000 hours. I don’t even use them, I don’t have anything in todays operation they are good for. I farm now with Fendt tractors ranging from 180-300hp and make lg sq bales. Everything is modern, but the old stuff fascinates me more. Thanks for the video...truly great stuff!
You and me both. I miss the good ole days of the 50s and 60s. Life was much more simple back then. Work hard, plan your future, raise a family, and have fun.
I'm looking at a 3600 old Ford now, got a 1960 and a 1963 Mf 35 there great little tractors too one diesel and one gas love the gas in the winter it starts so easy
This is the setup I used for most of my farming life, we had a new Idea rake, essentially the same. Started before I was 10 years old with a Ferguson tractor, then we got the 3000 ford with selectomatic transmission, Nothing sounds as sweet to my ear as the sound of a 3000 ford diesel, We baled with this same 3000 tractor or an old Farmall 350 until we got a row crop Ford 5000. This tractor was so much better for baling because I was above the dust and could see over the baler
On the small family farm I grew up, we never had anything this fancy. About 1959 is when Dad bought a used 1928 or so Farmall Regular. All our "stuff" was horsedrawn, mower, plow, etc, towed by that tractor. When we first made hay, I was barely able to help operate a dump rake, had to jam a big stick in the "hold down" pedal. Later we got a steel wheeled side delivery. Dad never owned a baler until around 70, when I was in the Navy.
If you got a 3000 gas with a select o jerk, it aint that hard to repair. Any auto transmission guy can do it. All the working parts are on one shaft. Just remember though..the middle section has a variable thickness brass washer and so does the end cover. They need to put the proper thickness thrust washer in so that you can barely turn the main shaft with your hands..not to tight, but not to loose either. All the moving parts on that shaft have those brass washers between them. You DO NOT need to remover that transmission from the tractor to do it unless the torque limiting clutch is bad or the transmission pump is bad. Can be done by splitting the rear axle housing away from the transmission. You have to move the selector on the side of the axle house on- if I remember right, the left hand side of the tractor to nuetral. Get yourself a ford repair manual online though as you have to set the bands. I worked at a ford tractor dealer and repaired I dont know how many of the select o jerks. Thats what we called them. If its howling...then you might have a transmission pump problem. Thats the pump at the input end in the bell housing-then you'd have to take the transmmision apart from the engine. ALL the moving parts...the PTO, Pump, Clutch packs etc are on ONE SHAFT the PTO drive shaft all of it.
I always like the ford 3000 when i was growing up. I've got allis and ford and jd and new idea equipment myself but never got to drive one of those 3000. Looks like a nice little tractor. Looks like nice hay and a nicejob of raking. Good video!
valleyfarm & Back to the Land organic farmers : We have New Holland model 55 rolabar side delivery rakes. They were built in the 1950's. Best thing is that they are damned near the same things as the "modern-day" NH side-delivery rakes. They work great if you keep up with basic maintenance and repairs as needed. We often ted out our hay, but that's because in our more difficult climate (north-eastern USA), it makes life a lot easier by cutting the hay's drying time basically in 1/2.
Here we are in Sk with 13 days to go until June 1st and our hay is 4 inches tall. won't be haying soon. we have had way less than an inch of rain so far and had very little snow run off this spring. Most years we get only one decent cut, maybe a poor second cut on new alfalfa. Good luck with your hay this year!
That's how we did it when I was a kid. Did square bales right onto the hay wagon stacking them as we went. Had a 440 acre farm. Thems was werkin days back then. Weren't no cell phones computers or even nintendo. Phones had cords back then. We we're all that when we got a wall mount phone with that long curly cord ya could actually walk around somewhat when talking.
@@GlennSchuyler It was a nice place. 4 hunting cabins. The old style sawmill (LOUD). Cattle. Pigs. Chickens. 2 Alpaca's. Those were good days. Main tractor we used was a Ford 2000 but had a Farmall and bulldozer. Off subject but my grandmother once said the downfall of society is going to be the internet. I think that was in 1992. I think she was correct about the internet.
I used an old farmall super C and the rake was just as old but both did a fair job. It depended on the lay of the field and hills as to wether i raked a double row on the out side or went around and around. All up until the the big rake came to the farm. The bug rake has the friction wheels on two arms and raked to the middle. That one you start in the center of the field and work out.
Glenn Schuyler: I dearly miss mine... Wish I had never sold it!!! I had a very unique 1966 4020 diesel with an M&W turbo kit and hydraulic FWA (Front Wheel Assist). It's now very likely worth 10 times what I sold it for about a decade or so ago.
Masa Allen : You must have had a loader on it and had it overloaded. Never seen a front bolster on any tractor break without being abused one way or another. When was the last time you greased the front axle's center pivot pin? People neglect them all the time, and on 50+ year old equipment, failures are not to be unheard of.
+Glenn Schuyler They do a better job when set narrower, but then you don't cover so much ground. I'v seen them still used with about 16 wheels in a big Vee formation.
That's a modern rake! We used a John Deere horse rake converted to tractor hitch. My brother still uses it. Some things can be improved upon while others are timeless. Small bales was one technology that I've never been a fan of.
I have a 1985 3910 with only 380 hours on it. One day I'll scrape up enough money for some hay making attachments. I just bush cut and plow my garden with it now.
Ronnie G Rotory rakes are popular now. This field was raked AND baled by my neighbor this year. He did the job in about half an hour. He bales huge square bales. I bale the old fashion way.
+steve griffiths The Amish in my area still use these New Holland rakes. They are actually made in New Holland, Pennsylvania, in Amish Country, Lancaster County. It what we used when i was a kid making hay. I have a small farm, so I don't need anything bigger.
Usually you wouldn't want to rake or ted the hay too much because it would knock off the leaves. But, this hay was more grass than alfalfa, and you can ted grass all day and you won't hurt it. With pure alfalfa, I try to get it baled as soon as I can before the leaves get too brittle; If you can cut it and bale it within two days, that would be best. But, we had cool weather, so it took the hay longer to dry.
ok that explains we always thought about doing alfalfa but for us its unrealistic barbecue we are down by the Delaware river and you need two or three days to get the hay to a lower moister content, our window of opportunity is allot smaller then the guys up on the hill to with how the dew sets in when baling you can see the moister content slowly rising int he hay as your baling around 4 or 5 o'clock maby? but we treat our hay with vinegar near the tree lines and when the hay snit quite there in places it also allows us to bale a little later
Alfalfa growers face the challenge of balancing achieving top yields with the price premium for early-harvest high quality hay. Alfalfa leaves regrow rapidly after mowing and the leaves are where the majority of the valuable plant protein is located. The stems continue to develop as the plants mature. The stems are lower in protein and high in fiber and indigestible lignin compared with the leaves.www.ipni.net/ipniweb/pnt.nsf/5a4b8be72a35cd46852568d9001a18da/70072b250970bac585257730004bc3c5!OpenDocument
About how many MPH are you raking? With a ground driven rake is the faster you can go the better it will rake? I've got a International 35 rake thats just like yours. Im trying to figure out how to rake good with it.
NWOR16 I rake at a fairly fast pace. Not sure of MPH. I'm guessing about 5 MPH. If the hay is light, going too fast will throw the windrows. Also, I never like to hurry.
FarmFencer : Practice. Every tractor and every rake has it's "happy place". Most hay rakes were not designed to travel very fast, especially the ground driven ones. Driving too fast with side delivery rakes will typically only get you poor/sloppy/messy windrows that are difficult to bale up. Driving too fast will also tear up and ruin your equipment quickly. Keep in mind, most smaller operations are using hay rakes that are 30 to 70 years old. Key word being, OLD. (Worn and tired.) Raking tips 101: 1.) Don't drive too fast. 2.) Keep your machine well greased. 3.) The density of the crop's mowed windrow and the "rake" (the adjustment of amount of tilt of the tines/teeth) adjustment setting of your reel will also make your windrows roll/turn/fluff differently. The reel's "rake" adjustment is the adjustment where the reel frame attaches to the main frame, often on a "ball-joint" type of connection. It may be a series of holes, or it could be slotted. Higher makes the reel tines more perpendicular to the ground, giving fluffier, wider windrows. Lower makes the reel tines more angular to the ground, making narrower, tighter and somewhat "ropey" windrows. Since we bale small squares, we mostly run our reel's "rake" adjustment in the middle to lower setting, but every crop and area is somewhat different. 4.) Also, keep good tines on your reel. If there are a lot missing, your hay rake will perform poorly. Best to stick with all metal tines also. In my opinion, the modern rubber/metal ones suck, as the rubber tends to break down over time and they fall/break apart much quicker and easier than the all spring steel ones. 5.) Also, be sure to have your hay rake's reel set high enough so that it's not scraping/digging into the ground. It only needs to be low enough to pick the hay and fluff/roll it over, it doesn't need to get every last little bit of hay and scratch the ground. That's how you tear up your rake in short order. 6.) Always pull from the tractor's sliding or swinging drawbar located below the PTO shaft. Do NOT use a 3pt hitch drawbar to operate a hay rake. If you do, the fore and aft angles of the hitch are are intensified and will cause the rake to lift too high or worse yet, lower too low, and dig into the ground when traveling over rough or hilly terrain. A 3pt drawbar will also bind in the throat of the hay rake's tongue when turning sharply, leading to bending and distorting the hitch and/or framing of the rake, or worse. Happy raking!
That is not how it was done in the 60's. The hay was cut with sickle mower. Then. it was raked every other swath starting with the second swath, outwards, til you got to the middle of the field. Then you raked the other way back out to the outside combining two swaths into one windrow.
The video shows him raking one. they used to rake two together by back-raking every other one. And, there is already a semblance of a windrow there. A sickle mower doesn't make windrow just an open furrow to drive the wheel in for the next cut. This stuff looks like someone teddered a previously-raked windrow. In the 60s they let the hay dry then raked it up to bale it.
Joe Deglman : I think it really all depends how dense you want your windrows to be, and whether you use a hay tedder or not. Also depends if you use a sickle-bar mower or a mower-conditioner/windrower/swather machine. Looks to me like his lot was mowed with a mower conditioner, tedded out, and now it's being raked to prepare for baling. That's how we do it as well. Sometimes we rake into double rows, and sometimes not. That depends on how dense the crop is when we cut it. Tedding is not always needed, depending on what your climate is like. In our area, tedding the hay typically cuts the drying time in 1/2, so it's a worthwhile process.
oh ok ours is gas it needs a couple things fixed like the select o speed the arms and fix the whining sound it makes when its moving but we don't know whats causeing it to do that
bastion 54e : To fix your Select-O-Speed correctly, you need to find an old-timer Ford tractor mechanic that knows those tractors, and fast! (They're a dying breed!) In my opinion, the Ford 10-speed Select-O-Speed was a pretty awesome transmission, well ahead of its time. It not only allowed for "shifting on-the-fly", but allowed for independent PTO and independent hydraulic systems on the Ford tractors equipped with that transmission option. Similar was the 8-speed PowerShift transmission introduced in the John Deere "New Generation" farm tractors back in 1964. Sadly, many people "hate" on them because they weren't properly taken care of by the previous owner, or the current owner doesn't properly take care of it either. Ultimately, the transmission begins to fail and can be very costly to fix, especially if let go too long and forced to operate in a state of disrepair. In the most simplistic of terms, they are basically a manually-shifted automatic transmission. Additionally, they require the correct fluid, and periodic adjustments to be made during their lifetime while in service. Any good old-timer mechanic that is worth a damn can still diagnose and fix those old transmissions. Sadly, as the years go by, they are becoming fewer and further between. My understanding is that many folks in the vineyard industry used the Select-O-Speed transmissions in their grape harvesters also. A time or two, I've considered learning all I know about them and starting my own side-business of repairing and rebuilding them. Only problem is that I see too many of them being parted or scrapped, and that combined with poor manufacturer/dealer parts support kind of drove me away from doing so. Somewhere I have an OEM Ford factory Service Manual for the Select-O-Speed transmissions used in the 600/800 series tractors. It's somewhere in my house. I haven't seen it in years though. I recall paying about $300 bucks for it, because of how very rare it is.
My grandpa had the exact same tractor and rake during the
60’s - 2009. Many a memories on his farm with that tractor. Thanks for sharing.
I love videos like this and I love the old Ford tractors. I own several 1970 models that my father bought new that have less then 1000 hours. I don’t even use them, I don’t have anything in todays operation they are good for. I farm now with Fendt tractors ranging from 180-300hp and make lg sq bales. Everything is modern, but the old stuff fascinates me more. Thanks for the video...truly great stuff!
When life was hard but simple. I miss those days.
You and me both. I miss the good ole days of the 50s and 60s. Life was much more simple back then. Work hard, plan your future, raise a family, and have fun.
Good sir, you did it the right way. My family has done farming since the 60s with a 1966 Massey Ferguson 175 and 135
P.S. my dad bought the 175 in 1998. The property was rented, until my dad started farming
Thank you
Glenn Schuyler your welcome. May I ask, what rake is that? New Holland 256?
Yes, I picked it up for $900
Love the sound that old Ford tractor, I can almost smell it thru my phone
Yep, I had some work done on it last summer. It runs really well for a 1977 model. Solid.
I'm looking at a 3600 old Ford now, got a 1960 and a 1963 Mf 35 there great little tractors too one diesel and one gas love the gas in the winter it starts so easy
This is the setup I used for most of my farming life, we had a new Idea rake, essentially the same. Started before I was 10 years old with a Ferguson tractor, then we got the 3000 ford with selectomatic transmission, Nothing sounds as sweet to my ear as the sound of a 3000 ford diesel, We baled with this same 3000 tractor or an old Farmall 350 until we got a row crop Ford 5000. This tractor was so much better for baling because I was above the dust and could see over the baler
Totally agree! We had someone do custom mowing for us on our acreage using an old pre-force 3000 Diesel... music to my ears.
Great movie. Reminded me of the good old days on my uncles farm.
Nice homestead and farm buildings as well.
Thank you.
On the small family farm I grew up, we never had anything this fancy. About 1959 is when Dad bought a used 1928 or so Farmall Regular. All our "stuff" was horsedrawn, mower, plow, etc, towed by that tractor. When we first made hay, I was barely able to help operate a dump rake, had to jam a big stick in the "hold down" pedal. Later we got a steel wheeled side delivery. Dad never owned a baler until around 70, when I was in the Navy.
Love those old fords. Tough as nails and compact enough to go anywhere.
pathicks28 It's a good tractor. Needs some work, but it is basically bullet proof
Yep we own a 3000 gas but the select o speed is broke and she whines a lot but she runs good
If you got a 3000 gas with a select o jerk, it aint that hard to repair. Any auto transmission guy can do it. All the working parts are on one shaft. Just remember though..the middle section has a variable thickness brass washer and so does the end cover. They need to put the proper thickness thrust washer in so that you can barely turn the main shaft with your hands..not to tight, but not to loose either. All the moving parts on that shaft have those brass washers between them. You DO NOT need to remover that transmission from the tractor to do it unless the torque limiting clutch is bad or the transmission pump is bad. Can be done by splitting the rear axle housing away from the transmission. You have to move the selector on the side of the axle house on- if I remember right, the left hand side of the tractor to nuetral. Get yourself a ford repair manual online though as you have to set the bands. I worked at a ford tractor dealer and repaired I dont know how many of the select o jerks. Thats what we called them. If its howling...then you might have a transmission pump problem. Thats the pump at the input end in the bell housing-then you'd have to take the transmmision apart from the engine. ALL the moving parts...the PTO, Pump, Clutch packs etc are on ONE SHAFT the PTO drive shaft all of it.
Got to love them Ford tractors, got a 2600 that we use to tether and rake with.
Daniel Stacey Good tractor
I started out on the same rig when I was six, still have the tractor now we use the wheel rakes
We had an 8n,, and I dont miss those days at ALL
skeets too fast and underpowered. I don't miss those days either.
skeets I'm so glad we round bale our hay now! The days of putting 10k of square bales in the mow are over! Thank God
I always like the ford 3000 when i was growing up. I've got allis and ford and jd and new idea equipment myself but never got to drive one of those 3000. Looks like a nice little tractor. Looks like nice hay and a nicejob of raking. Good video!
+tim henslee Thanks, Tim
I miss the smell of newly cut hay but don't miss the baling part. I always ended up in the barn.
Yep, we just baled yesterday. Nothing like fresh hay. The horses love it.
gary24752 I'm so glad we round bale now!
NH side delivery rakes are the best rakes, I've got one that been over thousands of acres with no problems.
Joe Tiller your opinion
Beautiful place and hay.good uniform winrows
I have a similar rake. rake it twice and I dont use a tedder. good hay every time
valleyfarm I agree, we get good hay all the time this way!
valleyfarm & Back to the Land organic farmers : We have New Holland model 55 rolabar side delivery rakes. They were built in the 1950's. Best thing is that they are damned near the same things as the "modern-day" NH side-delivery rakes. They work great if you keep up with basic maintenance and repairs as needed. We often ted out our hay, but that's because in our more difficult climate (north-eastern USA), it makes life a lot easier by cutting the hay's drying time basically in 1/2.
Here we are in Sk with 13 days to go until June 1st and our hay is 4 inches tall. won't be haying soon. we have had way less than an inch of rain so far and had very little snow run off this spring. Most years we get only one decent cut, maybe a poor second cut on new alfalfa. Good luck with your hay this year!
We've had just the opposite. Our problem is too much rain. We need a few weeks of sunshine to get crops planted and hay made.
That's how we did it when I was a kid. Did square bales right onto the hay wagon stacking them as we went. Had a 440 acre farm. Thems was werkin days back then. Weren't no cell phones computers or even nintendo. Phones had cords back then. We we're all that when we got a wall mount phone with that long curly cord ya could actually walk around somewhat when talking.
You still have your farm? 440 acres is a lot of ground.
@@GlennSchuyler Sold it in the 90's.
@@randyscrafts8575 440 acres now would be worth millions
@@GlennSchuyler It was a nice place. 4 hunting cabins. The old style sawmill (LOUD). Cattle. Pigs. Chickens. 2 Alpaca's. Those were good days. Main tractor we used was a Ford 2000 but had a Farmall and bulldozer.
Off subject but my grandmother once said the downfall of society is going to be the internet. I think that was in 1992. I think she was correct about the internet.
I used an old farmall super C and the rake was just as old but both did a fair job. It depended on the lay of the field and hills as to wether i raked a double row on the out side or went around and around. All up until the the big rake came to the farm. The bug rake has the friction wheels on two arms and raked to the middle. That one you start in the center of the field and work out.
WindersRanger j
Nice 3000, and also a nice Deere in the background.
+MosriteFlyinFingers I love my 4020
Glenn Schuyler: I dearly miss mine... Wish I had never sold it!!! I had a very unique 1966 4020 diesel with an M&W turbo kit and hydraulic FWA (Front Wheel Assist). It's now very likely worth 10 times what I sold it for about a decade or so ago.
Nice 3000, we had two of them and two 5000's, all diesel and never give any problems.
Jan Kotze what about your 5,000 cracking the front bolster in two pieces? I've had that Joy with mine.
Masa Allen : You must have had a loader on it and had it overloaded. Never seen a front bolster on any tractor break without being abused one way or another. When was the last time you greased the front axle's center pivot pin? People neglect them all the time, and on 50+ year old equipment, failures are not to be unheard of.
@@masaallen1009 Never had that problem seen it happen on other farms
I did actually borrow one this year to clean up after silage cutting.
+Ronnie G Corn stalks are a little hard on these rakes. Has a tendency to bend the teeth.
+Glenn Schuyler They do a better job when set narrower, but then you don't cover so much ground. I'v seen them still used with about 16 wheels in a big Vee formation.
I love that Ford tractor sound
Rake doing nice job
Same set up that we had as a kid growing up.
This is how I use to rack hey in the 60’s myself. Thanks
Ronald Stephens I rake hay like this now too!
Great video!
Thanks, Ethan
mnlo
That's a modern rake! We used a John Deere horse rake converted to tractor hitch. My brother still uses it. Some things can be improved upon while others are timeless. Small bales was one technology that I've never been a fan of.
+LuvBorderCollies Small bales are easy to handle, but you need help.
Merci pour la belle video
you are welcome
I have a 1985 3910 with only 380 hours on it. One day I'll scrape up enough money for some hay making attachments. I just bush cut and plow my garden with it now.
TheTomBevis it sounds like a good idea. But beware.
O mo
Don't see those rakes in the UK. They seem to like the large rotary ones, either twin or single rotor.
Ronnie G Rotory rakes are popular now. This field was raked AND baled by my neighbor this year. He did the job in about half an hour. He bales huge square bales. I bale the old fashion way.
we used to use these types in the uk. you may see one at museums like St Fagans in Wales or Beamish in the North East.
+steve griffiths The Amish in my area still use these New Holland rakes. They are actually made in New Holland, Pennsylvania, in Amish Country, Lancaster County. It what we used when i was a kid making hay. I have a small farm, so I don't need anything bigger.
I didn't really think you could get away with repeatedly tedding alfalfa due to knocking the leaves off
Usually you wouldn't want to rake or ted the hay too much because it would knock off the leaves. But, this hay was more grass than alfalfa, and you can ted grass all day and you won't hurt it. With pure alfalfa, I try to get it baled as soon as I can before the leaves get too brittle; If you can cut it and bale it within two days, that would be best. But, we had cool weather, so it took the hay longer to dry.
ok that explains we always thought about doing alfalfa but for us its unrealistic barbecue we are down by the Delaware river and you need two or three days to get the hay to a lower moister content, our window of opportunity is allot smaller then the guys up on the hill to with how the dew sets in when baling you can see the moister content slowly rising int he hay as your baling around 4 or 5 o'clock maby? but we treat our hay with vinegar near the tree lines and when the hay snit quite there in places it also allows us to bale a little later
Knocking all the leaves off isn't good, a few don't hurt. The food value is in the stems.
Alfalfa growers face the challenge of balancing achieving top yields with the price premium for early-harvest
high quality hay. Alfalfa leaves regrow rapidly after mowing and the leaves are where the majority of the valuable plant protein is located. The stems continue to develop as the plants mature. The stems are lower in protein and high in fiber and indigestible lignin compared with the leaves.www.ipni.net/ipniweb/pnt.nsf/5a4b8be72a35cd46852568d9001a18da/70072b250970bac585257730004bc3c5!OpenDocument
tractor sounds like she in good shape.
It needs some work...brakes and PTO need adjustments
I usually hand rake our field and i bail it with a bondsman. Lol!! Dog the Bounty hunter
We have a gas ford 3000 from 65
Looks like we live in 1960 in Hungary.
we use are ranger 6x6 it works great
we have a Ford 3600 with a New Holland rake... oh the irony.
Rake same direction it was mower. Turns the leaves in
Good point. You must be a farmer.
About how many MPH are you raking? With a ground driven rake is the faster you can go the better it will rake? I've got a International 35 rake thats just like yours. Im trying to figure out how to rake good with it.
NWOR16 I rake at a fairly fast pace. Not sure of MPH. I'm guessing about 5 MPH. If the hay is light, going too fast will throw the windrows. Also, I never like to hurry.
FarmFencer : Practice. Every tractor and every rake has it's "happy place". Most hay rakes were not designed to travel very fast, especially the ground driven ones. Driving too fast with side delivery rakes will typically only get you poor/sloppy/messy windrows that are difficult to bale up. Driving too fast will also tear up and ruin your equipment quickly. Keep in mind, most smaller operations are using hay rakes that are 30 to 70 years old. Key word being, OLD. (Worn and tired.)
Raking tips 101:
1.) Don't drive too fast.
2.) Keep your machine well greased.
3.) The density of the crop's mowed windrow and the "rake" (the adjustment of amount of tilt of the tines/teeth) adjustment setting of your reel will also make your windrows roll/turn/fluff differently.
The reel's "rake" adjustment is the adjustment where the reel frame attaches to the main frame, often on a "ball-joint" type of connection. It may be a series of holes, or it could be slotted. Higher makes the reel tines more perpendicular to the ground, giving fluffier, wider windrows. Lower makes the reel tines more angular to the ground, making narrower, tighter and somewhat "ropey" windrows.
Since we bale small squares, we mostly run our reel's "rake" adjustment in the middle to lower setting, but every crop and area is somewhat different.
4.) Also, keep good tines on your reel. If there are a lot missing, your hay rake will perform poorly. Best to stick with all metal tines also. In my opinion, the modern rubber/metal ones suck, as the rubber tends to break down over time and they fall/break apart much quicker and easier than the all spring steel ones.
5.) Also, be sure to have your hay rake's reel set high enough so that it's not scraping/digging into the ground. It only needs to be low enough to pick the hay and fluff/roll it over, it doesn't need to get every last little bit of hay and scratch the ground. That's how you tear up your rake in short order.
6.) Always pull from the tractor's sliding or swinging drawbar located below the PTO shaft. Do NOT use a 3pt hitch drawbar to operate a hay rake. If you do, the fore and aft angles of the hitch are are intensified and will cause the rake to lift too high or worse yet, lower too low, and dig into the ground when traveling over rough or hilly terrain. A 3pt drawbar will also bind in the throat of the hay rake's tongue when turning sharply, leading to bending and distorting the hitch and/or framing of the rake, or worse.
Happy raking!
That is not how it was done in the 60's. The hay was cut with sickle mower. Then. it was raked every other swath starting with the second swath, outwards, til you got to the middle of the field. Then you raked the other way back out to the outside combining two swaths into one windrow.
Joe Deglman we cut our hay with a sickle now and rake like you say!
The video shows him raking one. they used to rake two together by back-raking every other one. And, there is already a semblance of a windrow there. A sickle mower doesn't make windrow just an open furrow to drive the wheel in for the next cut. This stuff looks like someone teddered a previously-raked windrow. In the 60s they let the hay dry then raked it up to bale it.
Joe Deglman : I think it really all depends how dense you want your windrows to be, and whether you use a hay tedder or not. Also depends if you use a sickle-bar mower or a mower-conditioner/windrower/swather machine. Looks to me like his lot was mowed with a mower conditioner, tedded out, and now it's being raked to prepare for baling. That's how we do it as well. Sometimes we rake into double rows, and sometimes not. That depends on how dense the crop is when we cut it. Tedding is not always needed, depending on what your climate is like. In our area, tedding the hay typically cuts the drying time in 1/2, so it's a worthwhile process.
1:25 gehts los
Ford 3000 is yours gas or diesel
+xXlone_wolf 7Xx It's a diesel. My father bought it new in 1977. Been a good tractor but needs work because I haven't kept up with maintenance with it
oh ok ours is gas it needs a couple things fixed like the select o speed the arms and fix the whining sound it makes when its moving but we don't know whats causeing it to do that
+xXlone_wolf 7Xx You might want to check your hydrolic fluid level
bastion 54e : To fix your Select-O-Speed correctly, you need to find an old-timer Ford tractor mechanic that knows those tractors, and fast! (They're a dying breed!)
In my opinion, the Ford 10-speed Select-O-Speed was a pretty awesome transmission, well ahead of its time. It not only allowed for "shifting on-the-fly", but allowed for independent PTO and independent hydraulic systems on the Ford tractors equipped with that transmission option. Similar was the 8-speed PowerShift transmission introduced in the John Deere "New Generation" farm tractors back in 1964.
Sadly, many people "hate" on them because they weren't properly taken care of by the previous owner, or the current owner doesn't properly take care of it either. Ultimately, the transmission begins to fail and can be very costly to fix, especially if let go too long and forced to operate in a state of disrepair.
In the most simplistic of terms, they are basically a manually-shifted automatic transmission. Additionally, they require the correct fluid, and periodic adjustments to be made during their lifetime while in service. Any good old-timer mechanic that is worth a damn can still diagnose and fix those old transmissions. Sadly, as the years go by, they are becoming fewer and further between. My understanding is that many folks in the vineyard industry used the Select-O-Speed transmissions in their grape harvesters also.
A time or two, I've considered learning all I know about them and starting my own side-business of repairing and rebuilding them. Only problem is that I see too many of them being parted or scrapped, and that combined with poor manufacturer/dealer parts support kind of drove me away from doing so. Somewhere I have an OEM Ford factory Service Manual for the Select-O-Speed transmissions used in the 600/800 series tractors. It's somewhere in my house. I haven't seen it in years though. I recall paying about $300 bucks for it, because of how very rare it is.
two thousand AND thirteen
Yep, I did this video back in 2013
Правый ряд , и 90 км/ час
is that a ford 5000
+Abomb1 fox No, it's a 3000
is it gas ?
Abomb1 fox really?
Beautiful place and hay.good uniform winrows
Thank you