Great video ! I fully agree with using an MTL oil like Redline in these Overdrives and syncromesh gearboxes. Even GL4 gears lube (if you can find it) risky as modern anti wear additives are like Kryptonite on syncro rings and O/D clutches.
Great point! I love when people are adamant that you only use 30w oil because it's thinner. It's actually not. 90 weight gear oil is very similar in viscosity--it's a different scale.
@@jabberwockytdi8901 For the last 20 years or so Gear oil manufacturers have almost universally used buffered Sulphur as an EP additive in gear oils The GL4 specification is nothing to do with corrosion resistance of yellow metals, it is a rating that indicates the degree of the oils Extreme Pressure protection, in fact, some modern GL5 formulations offer better compatibility to yellow metal than some older GL4 products. But that is NOT an indication that the oil is suitable for use in a syncromech manual transmission, let alone one that is close coupled to an Overdrive using a wet clutch ! Many modern Gear Lubricant formulations utilize additives (such as Molybdenum) that make them very unsuitable (too slippery ) to allow syncro rings or wet clutches to grip. It is for this reason that Manual Transmission Lubricants or MTLs were developed. As a requirement all MTLs will meet the GL4 level of EP protection, but will also employ friction modifiers to help syncro rings grip. There are many MTLs available on the market, especially in Europe where manual transmission vehicles have always been more popular. But take care to check the viscosity, as many brands tend to be lower than the 80-90 weight optimal for older transmissions.
@@midwestmotoring I trained as a mechanic, but I only really became interested in lubrication about 25 years ago after experiencing a product related lubrication issue. A friend in the oil industry was unable to answer my questions, but put me in touch with a soon to retire, senior Tribiologist. We corresponded for many years after his retirement. I am by no means an expert. But I understand the basics of, at least, automotive lubrication. Particularly as it relates to 'our' cars.
It may also be worth remembering what it says in the Official Triumph workshop manual on this matter. Quote: All gearbox and overdrive units fitted to new cars are filled with special oil, formulated to give all necessary protection to new gears. Under normal circumstances, this oil should not be changed, but may be topped up with any of the approved oils. If a new unit is fitted, or parts of an existing unit renewed, the unit should be replenished with new special oil, supplied with a new unit, or ordered separately from the spares division. Should difficultly be experienced in obtaining the special oil, use one of the approved lubricants. ON NO ACCOUNT SHOULD ANTI-FRICTION ADDITIVES BE PUT IN THE OIL.
Glad I could help. Most of my parts are from Moss Motors these days. There are less expensive sources, but I'm finding they often are low on stock or it's not always easy to see if the part is the correct one. That said, they're short on some overdrive and GT6 stuff when I'm shopping for that. Rimmer Bros or Spit Bits usually do a good job filling in the gaps.
What sealant did you use between the case halves and the clutch ring? I am resealing a D-type due to leaks and wondering if you used the Permatex Indian Head? Any thought about using a RTV type sealant?
Honestly, I don't recall, but I feel like it was something by Permatex. RTV is okay, but you need to make sure that 1) you're using something that can withstand the temperature (the gearboxes in these get hot and also run right by the exhaust), and 2) don't go nuts with the application. It's very easy to have silicone sealant squeeze out inside the gearbox, which can clog passages and make your overdrive inoperable.
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We’ll done, thanks for this!
Happy to help!
Great video ! I fully agree with using an MTL oil like Redline in these Overdrives and syncromesh gearboxes.
Even GL4 gears lube (if you can find it) risky as modern anti wear additives are like Kryptonite on syncro rings and O/D clutches.
Great point! I love when people are adamant that you only use 30w oil because it's thinner. It's actually not. 90 weight gear oil is very similar in viscosity--it's a different scale.
@@jabberwockytdi8901 For the last 20 years or so Gear oil manufacturers have almost universally used buffered Sulphur as an EP additive in gear oils The GL4 specification is nothing to do with corrosion resistance of yellow metals, it is a rating that indicates the degree of the oils Extreme Pressure protection, in fact, some modern GL5 formulations offer better compatibility to yellow metal than some older GL4 products. But that is NOT an indication that the oil is suitable for use in a syncromech manual transmission, let alone one that is close coupled to an Overdrive using a wet clutch !
Many modern Gear Lubricant formulations utilize additives (such as Molybdenum) that make them very unsuitable (too slippery ) to allow syncro rings or wet clutches to grip.
It is for this reason that Manual Transmission Lubricants or MTLs were developed. As a requirement all MTLs will meet the GL4 level of EP protection, but will also employ friction modifiers to help syncro rings grip.
There are many MTLs available on the market, especially in Europe where manual transmission vehicles have always been more popular. But take care to check the viscosity, as many brands tend to be lower than the 80-90 weight optimal for older transmissions.
This is great information--thank you! You sound like you have a background in lubrication technology?
@@midwestmotoring I trained as a mechanic, but I only really became interested in lubrication about 25 years ago after experiencing a product related lubrication issue. A friend in the oil industry was unable to answer my questions, but put me in touch with a soon to retire, senior Tribiologist. We corresponded for many years after his retirement. I am by no means an expert. But I understand the basics of, at least, automotive lubrication. Particularly as it relates to 'our' cars.
It may also be worth remembering what it says in the Official Triumph workshop manual on this matter.
Quote: All gearbox and overdrive units fitted to new cars are filled with special oil, formulated to give all necessary protection to new gears. Under normal circumstances, this oil should not be changed, but may be topped up with any of the approved oils. If a new unit is fitted, or parts of an existing unit renewed, the unit should be replenished with new special oil, supplied with a new unit, or ordered separately from the spares division.
Should difficultly be experienced in obtaining the special oil, use one of the approved lubricants. ON NO ACCOUNT SHOULD ANTI-FRICTION ADDITIVES BE PUT IN THE OIL.
Awesome video series. This gives me great confidence in tackling my OD. Where did you end up sourcing your parts?
Glad I could help. Most of my parts are from Moss Motors these days. There are less expensive sources, but I'm finding they often are low on stock or it's not always easy to see if the part is the correct one. That said, they're short on some overdrive and GT6 stuff when I'm shopping for that. Rimmer Bros or Spit Bits usually do a good job filling in the gaps.
What sealant did you use between the case halves and the clutch ring? I am resealing a D-type due to leaks and wondering if you used the Permatex Indian Head? Any thought about using a RTV type sealant?
Honestly, I don't recall, but I feel like it was something by Permatex. RTV is okay, but you need to make sure that 1) you're using something that can withstand the temperature (the gearboxes in these get hot and also run right by the exhaust), and 2) don't go nuts with the application. It's very easy to have silicone sealant squeeze out inside the gearbox, which can clog passages and make your overdrive inoperable.