this is a great video. I'm actually in the middle of doing a conversion on this exact model. Its taking me forever though as I keep padding more functionality. I was going to make it just a 3 channel, but then I had to add ailerons, then flaps and now I mad custom retracts for it. Its pretty much done with the mods I just need to cover it now. Since I built my wing with flaps and ailerons I didn't build it with the polyhedral only the dihedral. Also instead of bands to hold the wing on its held in place with a latch and neodymium magnets.
@@JessHull there are a few Arrow conversion build threads at rcgroups.com including this one: www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?362577-Guillows-Arrow-Conversion
How timely!! I built an Arrow over winter, for rubber band power, but never flew it. Now, I'm looking to build a new fuselage for RC electric, and recovering the wing with a monokote-type covering. Thanks so much this video and your next one!!
Drew, no worries and best of luck! Be sure to try a transparent MonoKote/iron on covering. The transparent coverings are significantly lighter that full cover iron ons. Tim
Very good to find this video as I happen to be attempting to do the exact same thing with the Arrow and the salvaged electronics of a tiny broken RC helicopter. Lucky me! I learned a lot from your videos (both parts) and will make some changes to my build. Much appreciated and thank you for sharing your experiences!
@@TimMcKay56 - Thanks. My biggest problem right now it to solder those hair thin wires to connect a correctly geared motor to the cable that used to plug the helicopter motor there. It's like neurosurgery.
I believe that the center of gravity is so far aft on those Guillows sport/endurance models because the stablilizers have ribs which gives the plane more lift in the tail than a flat stabilizer would.
Tim I would like your opinion on the following Servo to use with Ailerons on the Guillows ‘Arrow’ Aircraft or any other Servo that would be suitable to use with compatible Spektrum Electronics. Some e/bay sellers do not state whether the servos are compatible with Spektrum Electronics. Also there is Thrust, Torque etc that also has to be considered and confusing to elderly Glow Plug users of the nineties. Spektrum A2005 Ultra-Micro Analog 1.8g Linear Aircraft Servo. Servo Size Category Nano and Ultra-Micro, Servo Type Analog, Bearing Dual, Gear Type Nylon. Width 0.59" (15.0mm), Length 0.60" (16.0mm), Height 0.33" (8.20mm). Torque 2.8 oz (79.4g) @ 4.2V, Weight 0.06oz (1.80g), Connector Type JST-SHR. Servo Operating Voltage 3.2 - 4.2V, Speed 0.14 sec @ 4.2V. Regards Graham
The CG being farther aft, looking at your build video, the horizontal stabilizer seems to have a positive lift airfoil which would tend to move CG aft.
Tim, I’m grateful for your great build video. I just purchased the Arrow and am following your build closely. I will be covering the plane with tissue. I see that you used what appears to be tape for elevator hinges. Did you install the tape before or after covering the stab/elevator surfaces? I can’t quite make it out from the video. Thank you, I’ve subscribed and always enjoy your work.
Jim: I use clear packing tape for the hinges and I add the tape after the model is covered (and painted, in your case with tissue). This method works for small, light models like the Arrow, as there is usually not sufficient force to have the tape lift off from the covering. But do check the seal from time to time. Tim
Many of the Guillow kits are updated with new plans and laser cut parts. The only way you can tell for the laser cutting is to see that it is mentioned on the box. Balsa wood quality a lot better with the laser cut parts as well. Tim
Tim, I just came across your build of the Arrow and I liked it so much that I went out and bought one. I want to build with Ailerons so my question is, Would one third of the wings depth be to much for the Ailerons measurements.
The SPAMAR6400 is actually 6-channel receiver, not 3 channel. Two servos and the motor controller are built into the board and you can connect 3 more external servos to it.
SCR: Depends on the vendor. If www.StevensAero.com has them, likely the best price. Otherwise do a Google search. The brick should be under $60, the motor around $20. Tim
You have done such a good job with this conversion, that the Arrow has become unavailable. Hopefully they will make more...lol. Also being a freeflighter and an R/Cer I was taught free flight, especially rubber powered needed to be balanced at the center of gravity. But a powered RC aircraft should be a bit nose heavy to stabilize a tendency to nose up or more accurately prevent porpoising during powered flight. Your thoughts?
Arthur: Jeez . . . you are right. A quick Amazon and Google search did not turn up anything. I even looked at www.Guillow.com, and the Arrow is listed as temporarily out of stock. Strange. One place to check out is Ebay, there may be a kit there. And, the Lancer or Javelin are pretty close, just a bit smaller with 24 inch wingspans until the Arrow back in stock. Ref your CG question, a tad nose heavy is certainly better than being even slightly tail heavy. To prevent porpoising, oftentimes the horizontal tail surfaces are too small, or there may not be enough positive wing incidence. Tim
I see you’ve pinned the sheet balsa pieces to the plan by putting the pins through the parts. I was taught that this would split the part, and that the pins should be placed on each side of the part. The pins should be angled with the heads over the part. This holds the part down, as well as holding it side-to-side. Take care.
Jim: You are correct with pinning smaller balsa parts. Sometimes with these very lightweight models I'll accept a small amount of split wood, just CA things in place when done. Tim
Hi Tim, I have just bought an Arrow with ideas to rubber band fly it and then saw your excellent conversion video. I have never RCed and was wondering if I would possibly just smash it to bits on a first flight! Any tips on getting into RC gently or should I just do the conversion and risk the damage?
Arthur: The Arrow is a neat Guillows airplane, goes together well and flies just as good. It is a bit of a trick to install the RC gear, as it is a smaller RC model. But of all the Guillows models, the Arrow is probably the easiest for an RC conversion. Maybe try this approach: Find a good, smaller size ARF to learn how to fly RC. An instructor at your local club field will help a LOT. Build the Arrow as a rubber band free flight, to get that under your belt. Next, get some experience with building at least one RC kit. I have a video on the www.StevensAero.com QuickOats plane, flies great. After that, build a second Arrow with the RC gear. Good luck! Tim
Great video Tim did you take up the sport when you're retired are you retired? Must have been hard to find the time before that I didn't get into it till after I retired myself first I tried ham radio and then I tried airplanes and I don't have much luck with either one to be honest with you I hope you are doing well with it looks like you are
George: I have been modeling since I was a teenager, with breaks for work, family, etc. over the years. Plus I read (and crashed) a lot. Retired now, so time not an issue . 😃 Tim
Real nice plane, very useful informaiton for a begginer builder. I want to teach me and my 8 yearold sone to fly. Do you have a recomendation for a trainner plane pusher (foam or balsa , outdoors with 7mph wind speed)? Thanks
Alex: I think you will find the Radian, available at Horizon Hobby, and very suitable three channel trainer. Also, the RealFlight computer simulator is a huge help with learning to fly RC. Tim
@@daviddavids2884 Many thanks for the videos . I will try to find something like that , but my building skills are not high yet. I will need very detailed building instruction and plans...i think the second one does not have plans. I only have easu access to 5mm dollar tree foam or pink foam from home depot. I already built one pusher but wind ir not strong to resist crashed and abuse from the beginer pilot. I will keep searching , thanks agan. Thanks again, Alex
The ultra-micro units (sometimes called Parkzone ultra micro) can go in and out of availability. Best source is www.StevensAero.com Email them if further questions. Tim
It looks like that ParkZone motor is discontinued. Too bad. I've had an Arrow kit waiting for me to build it and was going to try the R/C conversion. Maybe I'll try R/C but with rubber power.
Hello again. The aircraft has a stabilizer with an airfoil shape, it isn’t flat. This is called a lifting stabilizer, it adds to the total lift of the model. It’s not unusual on older free flight designs. It shifts the center of lift rearward. That’s why the center of balance is so far back. If you were to rebuild the aircraft from a crash, and built a new, flat section stabilizer, you would have to move the balance point forward, to about 1/3 the chord, to fly it. You’d have a new design, and you’d have to debug it yourself. I wouldn’t recommend fundamental changes to the aerodynamics of a design until you’re more experienced. Converting to RC, and adding control surfaces are fine, as long as you keep the needs of the model in mind. Good luck.
Tim, I tried to do an RC conversion on a guillows javelin and I had trouble installing the electronics it was a spectrum compatible board I got from Stevens aroe model. I think the main problem was that the control rods were too thick and trying to flex them to install them in the sides of the servos cause the wood to break apart.when you did your RC conversions on such airplanes as the javelin such as the arrow or the lancer did you use gauge control rod that was thinner and had to be fed through guide eyes or was it thick enough to stand on its own? Hey thank you for your help and guidance. George
George: Thanks for your note. Yes, keep the control rods as thin as possible. Ensure a "clear" run to from the servo to the control surface, zero binding. You will need either guide rods along the way or holes in balsa that the control rod goes through. Even though the music wire is very thin, if properly supported works just fine. The last 2-3" of the control rod will be sufficient to not flex and move the lightweight control surface. Tim
Tim Just one question on the Fuselage Is there ant trick to building the Fuselage Straight ? i am more or a foam modeler and in the past building a balsa fuselage like this i got a twist . I do have the Arrow kit on hand but the plans give NO full size bottom view . I have seen some modelers use jigs to keep the fuselage straight but not sure if this is needed on this one ?? Any suggestions would be most welcome
Larz: No worries. Step One is to get a flat building board. I have a Guillows board that has been fine for past 30 years. For the Arrow fuselage, mark a center line in each former. Glue the formers in front of the wing leading edge and at the wing trailing edge to one fuselage side at a 90 degree angle. Use a plastic drafting triangle (Amazon, Dollar Tree) to ensure it is 90 degrees. Then, draw a top view on a blank piece of paper with a centerline and the two fuselage sides, as well as the nose former. Glue on the other fuselage side, with the centerlines on the formers on your hand drawn top view. When glue dry, carefully bring the fuselage ends over the plan centerline, glue in place. Do the same for the nose former. Remember, this is not building an Apollo moon rocket, just work to keep things as straight as possible. Tim
David: I have purchased music wire over the years from various hobby stores, that would be my first stop. Amazon.com has a wide range of music wire for sale, as do some of the craft stores like Michael's. When you do see music wire anywhere, go ahead and purchase it. Will last a lifetime and always nice to have the wire in your inventory to use when needed. Tim
Zac: Yes, you can add ailerons. I'd remove the polyhedral in the wing first to allow the ailerons to have effect. The model does fly well on rudder and elevator, for what it is worth. Tim
@@TimMcKay56 - Stabilizers with control surfaces are done. Now for the hinges. They need to be super light obviously but I think even the 1/8" pin hinges available for park flyers are too big. Maybe I am wrong. What did you use for hinges in this build? Thank you for your advice!
Edward: The brick is there at Horizon Hobby. I'll try and paste a link end this note. If the link does not come through, Google AS6410 DSMX 6 channel ultra micro AS3X receiver and ESC. Also, the tech folks at Horizon Hobby are super helpful. Good luck! Tim www.horizonhobby.com/product/as6410l-dsmx-6-channel-ultra-micro-as3x-receiver-with-esc/SPMAS6410L.html?KPID=SPMAS6410L&CAWELAID=320011980000236993&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=97846720982&CATCI=pla-899697922202&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkN78vbf66wIVga_ICh1x1AofEAQYASABEgIRg_D_BwE
this is a great video. I'm actually in the middle of doing a conversion on this exact model. Its taking me forever though as I keep padding more functionality. I was going to make it just a 3 channel, but then I had to add ailerons, then flaps and now I mad custom retracts for it. Its pretty much done with the mods I just need to cover it now. Since I built my wing with flaps and ailerons I didn't build it with the polyhedral only the dihedral. Also instead of bands to hold the wing on its held in place with a latch and neodymium magnets.
Good luck! Tim
@@TimMcKay56 Thank you!
I was thinking magnets, too. Do you have build thread online anywhere? Pics?
@@CarlosSpicyWeener I'm not part of any rc forum so I don't have a place to post build pics. Is there on your would recommend I join ?
@@JessHull there are a few Arrow conversion build threads at rcgroups.com including this one: www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?362577-Guillows-Arrow-Conversion
How timely!! I built an Arrow over winter, for rubber band power, but never flew it. Now, I'm looking to build a new fuselage for RC electric, and recovering the wing with a monokote-type covering. Thanks so much this video and your next one!!
Drew, no worries and best of luck! Be sure to try a transparent MonoKote/iron on covering. The transparent coverings are significantly lighter that full cover iron ons. Tim
Very good to find this video as I happen to be attempting to do the exact same thing with the Arrow and the salvaged electronics of a tiny broken RC helicopter. Lucky me! I learned a lot from your videos (both parts) and will make some changes to my build. Much appreciated and thank you for sharing your experiences!
KH: Glad to be of service and best of luck with your upcoming RC conversion! Tim
@@TimMcKay56 - Thanks. My biggest problem right now it to solder those hair thin wires to connect a correctly geared motor to the cable that used to plug the helicopter motor there. It's like neurosurgery.
@@my_dear_friend_ Good luck! Tim
Tim, I love your channel, your builds, and your perspective as a veteran pilot and RC enthusiast. Please keep producing content.
Joe: Will do, appreciate your feedback. Tim
Great video Tim
Baz: Thanks 👍 Tim
Tim
Thanks for the tips. I made the conversion and posted a video of the maiden flight.
Scott Hoeschen
Scott: I will check it out! Tim
I believe that the center of gravity is so far aft on those Guillows sport/endurance models because the stablilizers have ribs which gives the plane more lift in the tail than a flat stabilizer would.
M-817: You are correct, thanks for the reminder. Tim
Tim
I would like your opinion on the following Servo to use with Ailerons on the Guillows ‘Arrow’ Aircraft or any other Servo that would be suitable to use with compatible Spektrum Electronics.
Some e/bay sellers do not state whether the servos are compatible with Spektrum Electronics. Also there is Thrust, Torque etc that also has to be considered and confusing to elderly Glow Plug users of the nineties.
Spektrum A2005 Ultra-Micro Analog 1.8g Linear Aircraft Servo.
Servo Size Category Nano and Ultra-Micro, Servo Type Analog, Bearing Dual, Gear Type Nylon.
Width 0.59" (15.0mm), Length 0.60" (16.0mm), Height 0.33" (8.20mm).
Torque 2.8 oz (79.4g) @ 4.2V, Weight 0.06oz (1.80g), Connector Type JST-SHR.
Servo Operating Voltage 3.2 - 4.2V, Speed 0.14 sec @ 4.2V.
Regards Graham
Graham: Apologies, but I do not have information on this issue. The tech support chat line at www.HorizonHobby.com may be of help on this. Tim
@@TimMcKay56 thanks Tim I will check that out.
The CG being farther aft, looking at your build video, the horizontal stabilizer seems to have a positive lift airfoil which would tend to move CG aft.
Barry: Agree with your assessment, thanks! Tim 😁
Tim, I’m grateful for your great build video. I just purchased the Arrow and am following your build closely.
I will be covering the plane with tissue. I see that you used what appears to be tape for elevator hinges. Did you install
the tape before or after covering the stab/elevator surfaces? I can’t quite make it out from the video.
Thank you, I’ve subscribed and always enjoy your work.
Jim: I use clear packing tape for the hinges and I add the tape after the model is covered (and painted, in your case with tissue). This method works for small, light models like the Arrow, as there is usually not sufficient force to have the tape lift off from the covering. But do check the seal from time to time. Tim
Tim McKay . Thank you!
Great video I appreciate how comprehensive the whole thing was. Were you a carpenter? I think I recognize the cough maybe I'm projecting.
Bingus: Many thanks! And no, I am not a carpenter. Tim
Are the parts lazer cut? Back in the old days they were die cut. Thanks for doing a great job. Dave Pope
Many of the Guillow kits are updated with new plans and laser cut parts. The only way you can tell for the laser cutting is to see that it is mentioned on the box. Balsa wood quality a lot better with the laser cut parts as well. Tim
Tim, I just came across your build of the Arrow and I liked it so much that I went out and bought one.
I want to build with Ailerons so my question is,
Would one third of the wings depth be to much for the Ailerons measurements.
Graham: One third of wing chord should be plenty for ailerons. Maybe reduce the wing polyhedral a bit to allow for more bank control. Tim
@@TimMcKay56 Thank you Tim
The SPAMAR6400 is actually 6-channel receiver, not 3 channel. Two servos and the motor controller are built into the board and you can connect 3 more external servos to it.
Correct, thanks for the clarification! Tim
What does the Parkzone running gear cost? This might be a fun winter project 🤔
SCR: Depends on the vendor. If www.StevensAero.com has them, likely the best price. Otherwise do a Google search. The brick should be under $60, the motor around $20. Tim
You have done such a good job with this conversion, that the Arrow has become unavailable. Hopefully they will make more...lol. Also being a freeflighter and an R/Cer I was taught free flight, especially rubber powered needed to be balanced at the center of gravity. But a powered RC aircraft should be a bit nose heavy to stabilize a tendency to nose up or more accurately prevent porpoising during powered flight. Your thoughts?
Arthur: Jeez . . . you are right. A quick Amazon and Google search did not turn up anything. I even looked at www.Guillow.com, and the Arrow is listed as temporarily out of stock. Strange. One place to check out is Ebay, there may be a kit there. And, the Lancer or Javelin are pretty close, just a bit smaller with 24 inch wingspans until the Arrow back in stock. Ref your CG question, a tad nose heavy is certainly better than being even slightly tail heavy. To prevent porpoising, oftentimes the horizontal tail surfaces are too small, or there may not be enough positive wing incidence. Tim
Arthur: Saw four Arrow kits for sale on Ebay. Tim
@@TimMcKay56 Thanks, Tim. I just ordered a Laser cut version for a reasonable price from an Ebay seller.
I see you’ve pinned the sheet balsa pieces to the plan by putting the pins through the parts.
I was taught that this would split the part, and that the pins should be placed on each side of the part. The pins should be angled with the heads over the part.
This holds the part down, as well as holding it side-to-side.
Take care.
Jim: You are correct with pinning smaller balsa parts. Sometimes with these very lightweight models I'll accept a small amount of split wood, just CA things in place when done. Tim
Hi Tim, I have just bought an Arrow with ideas to rubber band fly it and then saw your excellent conversion video. I have never RCed and was wondering if I would possibly just smash it to bits on a first flight! Any tips on getting into RC gently or should I just do the conversion and risk the damage?
Arthur: The Arrow is a neat Guillows airplane, goes together well and flies just as good. It is a bit of a trick to install the RC gear, as it is a smaller RC model. But of all the Guillows models, the Arrow is probably the easiest for an RC conversion. Maybe try this approach: Find a good, smaller size ARF to learn how to fly RC. An instructor at your local club field will help a LOT. Build the Arrow as a rubber band free flight, to get that under your belt. Next, get some experience with building at least one RC kit. I have a video on the www.StevensAero.com QuickOats plane, flies great. After that, build a second Arrow with the RC gear. Good luck! Tim
Great video Tim did you take up the sport when you're retired are you retired? Must have been hard to find the time before that I didn't get into it till after I retired myself first I tried ham radio and then I tried airplanes and I don't have much luck with either one to be honest with you I hope you are doing well with it looks like you are
George: I have been modeling since I was a teenager, with breaks for work, family, etc. over the years. Plus I read (and crashed) a lot. Retired now, so time not an issue . 😃 Tim
Hi Tim,
Thanks for all this. I have the servo/esc brick. Which motor and motor mount are you using?
Thanks
Scott: I use the regular plastic mount, with "arms" on both sides, glued to a wood mount. Tim
@@TimMcKay56 Thanks. Which motor are you using?
Scott: The regular/standard micro geared motor, as per the Stevens Aero website. Tim
Real nice plane, very useful informaiton for a begginer builder. I want to teach me and my 8 yearold sone to fly. Do you have a recomendation for a trainner plane pusher (foam or balsa , outdoors with 7mph wind speed)? Thanks
Alex: I think you will find the Radian, available at Horizon Hobby, and very suitable three channel trainer. Also, the RealFlight computer simulator is a huge help with learning to fly RC. Tim
David, thanks for your update! Tim
@@daviddavids2884 Many thanks for the videos . I will try to find something like that , but my building skills are not high yet. I will need very detailed building instruction and plans...i think the second one does not have plans. I only have easu access to 5mm dollar tree foam or pink foam from home depot. I already built one pusher but wind ir not strong to resist crashed and abuse from the beginer pilot.
I will keep searching , thanks agan.
Thanks again,
Alex
@@TimMcKay56 . Thanks for the advice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I can't find where you mention from which airplane the motor and gearbox are from. What is the equivalent that can be purchased now? THANKS
The ultra-micro units (sometimes called Parkzone ultra micro) can go in and out of availability. Best source is www.StevensAero.com Email them if further questions. Tim
It looks like that ParkZone motor is discontinued. Too bad. I've had an Arrow kit waiting for me to build it and was going to try the R/C conversion. Maybe I'll try R/C but with rubber power.
I know, it can be tough to find these units. But they are out there! Tim
Fun video. Thanks. I can't find the motor at Horizon Hobby?
Just give a call/chat with horizon Hobby techs . . . they can find the motor. Tim
@@TimMcKay56 Thanks for the response. What would I ask for, other than, "that little one"?
Hello again.
The aircraft has a stabilizer with an airfoil shape, it isn’t flat.
This is called a lifting stabilizer, it adds to the total lift of the model.
It’s not unusual on older free flight designs.
It shifts the center of lift rearward.
That’s why the center of balance is so far back.
If you were to rebuild the aircraft from a crash, and built a new, flat section stabilizer, you would have to move the balance point forward, to about 1/3 the chord, to fly it.
You’d have a new design, and you’d have to debug it yourself.
I wouldn’t recommend fundamental changes to the aerodynamics of a design until you’re more experienced.
Converting to RC, and adding control surfaces are fine, as long as you keep the needs of the model in mind.
Good luck.
James: You make an excellent report on the lifting tail. Thanks for this clarification! Tim
Tim, I tried to do an RC conversion on a guillows javelin and I had trouble installing the electronics it was a spectrum compatible board I got from Stevens aroe model. I think the main problem was that the control rods were too thick and trying to flex them to install them in the sides of the servos cause the wood to break apart.when you did your RC conversions on such airplanes as the javelin such as the arrow or the lancer did you use gauge control rod that was thinner and had to be fed through guide eyes or was it thick enough to stand on its own?
Hey thank you for your help and guidance.
George
George: Thanks for your note. Yes, keep the control rods as thin as possible. Ensure a "clear" run to from the servo to the control surface, zero binding. You will need either guide rods along the way or holes in balsa that the control rod goes through. Even though the music wire is very thin, if properly supported works just fine. The last 2-3" of the control rod will be sufficient to not flex and move the lightweight control surface. Tim
Thanks Tim. Just one question.what are guide rods?
Can not find Parkzone electronics at Horizon or anywhere actually. Any thoughts where they can be purchased ?
Yeah, they come and go with current China trade situation. Try www.StevensAero.com . . . email Bill if further questions. Tim
Tim Just one question on the Fuselage Is there ant trick to building the Fuselage Straight ? i am more or a foam modeler and in the past building a balsa fuselage like this i got a twist . I do have the Arrow kit on hand but the plans give NO full size bottom view . I have seen some modelers use jigs to keep the fuselage straight but not sure if this is needed on this one ?? Any suggestions would be most welcome
Larz: No worries. Step One is to get a flat building board. I have a Guillows board that has been fine for past 30 years. For the Arrow fuselage, mark a center line in each former. Glue the formers in front of the wing leading edge and at the wing trailing edge to one fuselage side at a 90 degree angle. Use a plastic drafting triangle (Amazon, Dollar Tree) to ensure it is 90 degrees. Then, draw a top view on a blank piece of paper with a centerline and the two fuselage sides, as well as the nose former. Glue on the other fuselage side, with the centerlines on the formers on your hand drawn top view. When glue dry, carefully bring the fuselage ends over the plan centerline, glue in place. Do the same for the nose former. Remember, this is not building an Apollo moon rocket, just work to keep things as straight as possible. Tim
Parkzone servo brick is no longer available. Is there a similar product somewhere?
Can a challenge to find. Amazon and www.StevensAero.com a good start. Tim
Mr Mckay where do you get the music wire thar you use for control rods?
David: I have purchased music wire over the years from various hobby stores, that would be my first stop. Amazon.com has a wide range of music wire for sale, as do some of the craft stores like Michael's. When you do see music wire anywhere, go ahead and purchase it. Will last a lifetime and always nice to have the wire in your inventory to use when needed. Tim
I am thinking about trying this conversion but i also have parkzone servos for ailerons. Is it possible to put ailerons in this model?
Zac: Yes, you can add ailerons. I'd remove the polyhedral in the wing first to allow the ailerons to have effect. The model does fly well on rudder and elevator, for what it is worth. Tim
Is 0.5mm music wire sufficient if I guide it as you show in the video?
Should be. Very light control forces. Tim
@@TimMcKay56 - Thanks!
@@TimMcKay56 - Stabilizers with control surfaces are done. Now for the hinges. They need to be super light obviously but I think even the 1/8" pin hinges available for park flyers are too big. Maybe I am wrong. What did you use for hinges in this build? Thank you for your advice!
@@my_dear_friend_ Simple: Clear Scotch tape. Works like a champ! Tim
Tape hinge along the length of the hinge (hinged on top)? Or the old school way (just in a few places but "woven" through from one side to the other)?
Where do you get the "brick"? HorizonHobby doesn't list it and the few online stores that actually list it say it is discontinued.
Edward: The brick is there at Horizon Hobby. I'll try and paste a link end this note. If the link does not come through, Google AS6410 DSMX 6 channel ultra micro AS3X receiver and ESC. Also, the tech folks at Horizon Hobby are super helpful. Good luck! Tim
www.horizonhobby.com/product/as6410l-dsmx-6-channel-ultra-micro-as3x-receiver-with-esc/SPMAS6410L.html?KPID=SPMAS6410L&CAWELAID=320011980000236993&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=97846720982&CATCI=pla-899697922202&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkN78vbf66wIVga_ICh1x1AofEAQYASABEgIRg_D_BwE
@@TimMcKay56 Thanks, the link worked. Just needed to know what to search for.
The power brick is discontinued. Are there alternatives?
Do you suggest me to buy this modle is it a good free flight modle?
Great tutorial btw
Excellent free flight model. 😊 Tim
How did you figure out the angle to mount the motor at for correct down thrust?
Rule of thumb. A degree or two right and down thrust. To be honest, not super critical with these lightweight, lower power models. Tim
Thx tim, now for the hard question. Where did you get the motor, receive, etc..., from? Thx
"die cut"? don't you mean laser cut as the improvement?
Drew: Yes, you are correct. Thanks! Tim
I think the parts are laser cut, not die cut.
You are correct, balsa parts are laser cut. My apologies! Tim