Amazing. My truck had an intermittent battery warning and I was heading for an alternator replacement when I saw this video. I ran the scan and had a P0230 code. I checked the fuse and it was destroyed. I did the fix myself in 20 mins. You just save me hundreds of dollars.
I had the same problem checked both power going into the alternator had good voltage I was going to condem the alternator but did an owns test from alternator to terminal 14 and 53 at the pcm and found the two wires from the alternator to the PCM where making contact I followed the harness and found a clamp was pinching the wires by the frame the owner had taken the truck to six different shops it took me about six hours to figure out the problem but I was not going to give up, your videos actually gave me a guidance as to what to look for it was very helpful
Thanks for the video. Had a random battery light coming on in my 2013 F-150, checked the #27 fuse you showed and found it burnt. Ordered a kit, installed it about 1 month ago and haven't had a light come on since.
Just happened today when I started going down the road, just replaced my booster and this happened about 45 mins later. Don’t really know why, but I did find that 20 amp fuse(no.27) blown on one side, the same way as the one you removed in the video. I just ordered the kit on Amazon. Thanks for the tutorial, hopefully this will fix the issue.
Want to thank you so much with this video. The printed instructions were hard to follow as the print was so small and pictures were so small. This video was perfect followed and paused and watched and completed probably 45 minutes as had to keep running back in to get my tools, solder gun, heat gun, etc.. Price was $12.00 off of amazon and had to buy a solder gun from Harbor Freight was on sale so paid $15.00 total $27 and 45-55 minutes of my time. Called Ford asked them first part was $45 and I know would of been 2 hours charge so total would of been $220+.
After changing the pig tail to the alternator and the alternator itself, I found your video…it was fuse 47. $300 later…it was a damn fuse. Thank you for this video!
Hey man, thanks so so much for this great and informative video. Fuse 27 blown out on me too. Almost the entire fuse was completely gone, except on part of the connector. Thanks for the help
Great video Tim, but you use the negative battery terminal as the switch to keep from a spike to the electrical system. It’s the first off and the last on. When disconnecting the battery.
You are correct, either will prevent "electrons from moving". And I don't believe there is a difference in terms of a "spike to the electrical system". But it's safer to disconnect the negative first because if you were to touch something metal with the ratchet/wrench there would be no short circuit (since in that case it's ground to ground). @@ThecardoctorTV
reminds me of a 69 meteor 500 living in the Yukon , went to start it one cold -45 below hit the key and nothing but a flash at the fuse box in the firewall that I could see near the floor board where the fire wall connection was , it was the ten gauge wire that fried , joined the wires together to make it to work .
Being the old stick in the mud i am, i like the old style alternator that did the charging itself without a computer, and a monitor wire back to the battery pos. I did say i was a stick in the mud lol :-D
I noticed the sticker on top my fuse box cover when I bought the 2012 F-150 truck and never understood why but apparently the dealership performed this procedure before I bought it. Since the purchase a year ago, I've had electrical gremlins nearly non-stop with undercharging/overcharging issues. Driving down the interstate the voltage suddenly drops from 14.3v to 12.8v and stays there until I remove foot from accelerator pedal which then returns to 14.3v. Sitting at idle in park and performing throttle snap test, voltage momentarily swings between 12.3v to 15.8v before stabilizing at 14.3v. So in the last six months I've first replaced battery, no change. Then replaced a very very very expensive 225-amp alternator, no change. I still have the old battery and alternator as apparently nothing is wrong with either so I have them as spares. I have since purchased a brand new factory OEM charging harness which runs from battery, and connects to fuse box, alternator, starter, air conditioner, and various connectors. I haven't installed it yet due to cold weather season and because it looks as if it'll take 5-8 hours to completely remove old harness and replace with new harness and I'm waiting until the weather warms up outside so I can get underneath truck to perform task. Ford Motor Companies attempt to increase fuel mileage numbers by turning off the alternator and air conditioning system when they are most needed was a stupid idea and does not work as intended. The BMS system is also a failed attempt too as you cannot listen to nor program/update the radio unless the engine is physically running while sitting parked not driving. As today's Ford trucks ignition switches do not have accessory positions, you cannot play the radio unless the engine is running. Stupid idea. I love my truck but Ford dropped the ball big time.
This was exactly my problem. After watching your video I checked fuse 27. Then $37 + 2 hours later = problem solved. I can't imagine what the dealer wold have charged to diagnose and fix
I am getting this on my 2016 Ford Mustang eco boost and my alternator is good and battery is good as well and everything is charging but my battery light is on and it is p0625, p065b, and p0620
Why did you select fuse #27? That fuse is for the fuel pump? How is this fuse directly related to the reason that the charge system failure warning comes up?
Just came across this video looking for charging issues and wondered the same thing when he went into a fuel pump fuse tsb... why?!? What happened to the alternator charging issues?
I had the no start issue on my 2011 F150 occasionally. Went out and rattled the fuses around and it started. But it’s also giving me battery maintenance system issues and the battery light on the dash. Replaced the fuse and it all went away, so it must be connected through the PCM somehow.
very good video! do you have info on the same problem with a 2018? someone has already repaired the wire from the pcm to alternator. i get codes p0625 and p065b as you have talked about. my voltage at the battery is 12.5v off and 15.4 running. it always starts but still throws the message. any info will be appreciated. thanks
I have a 2007 Mountaineer with the 4.6L V8. Since I replaced the alternator and battery and the battery warning light came on and stayed on. It tested fine and had an output voltage between 13.9-14.4. Battery also tested good. Is it possible that there is AC voltage being leaked back to the battery?(bad diode in alternator)
My 2013 had this problem. Fuel pump fuse 27 melted. Left me stranded with crank no start. I had no idea it was also the cause of the low battery warning I keep getting.
Oh by the way... fuse 27 is the fuse for the fuel pump. I cleaned the origonal fuse socket and installed a new fuse at that location until i could get the new fuse replacment kit. REMEMBER FUEL PUMP!
I have an older (2003) F150. The battery light came on last week, I checked the alternator and battery.....replaced both- since they came with the truck when I bought it a year ago. Battery light is still on, it's charging just fine, battery is great (checked both with multimeter). What would cause this? With this light triggered, am I okay to keep driving the truck until I get to a scanner to find the codes? I'll admit, I put in a Carquest alternator, I'd have to order in a Motorcraft one......and now that I'm $350 into this, I don't want to throw more money at it unless I really really need to. I can get the motorcraft one later, but my credit card needs to recover a bit from this adventure, haha.
I did this repair and it was much needed considering my fuse was burnt. However, I still have a battery light but it's never thrown any codes that my scanner would pick up. No check engine light either. I'm assuming it's that communication cable you mentioned going to the alternator. Considering how difficult it is to get to said cable, would I be better off running an entire new one?
Did it turn out to be the alternator cable ? I'm asking cause my fuse was blown too but like you there was no codes just the battery light every now and then .
@@kennethmerlos3046 yes. My cable is shorting out. I instead bought a remote battery disconnect and just push a button when I know I'm leaving the truck for more than an hour.
Hello, I have the battery icon popping up on my dash. I had that fuse already replaced. Im getting a code P0562:2C, I check the alternator output, it's 13.6. I have the MUCAR CDE 900. Its telling me to bring it to a mechanic and they'll do a diagnostic for $154.00. I thought that's what the scan tool was supposed to do. I also have a few other codes, I don't think they're related. One says something about the power train the other is saying something about the " Immobilizer control Module!" Could these have something to do with my problem. I'd really appreciate your feed back. BTW, that was a great video.
HI, Thanks for the video. I put a new aftermarket alternator and a new battery on my 2012 f150. But Im still getting the battery light illuminate. THe system is charging at 13.95 volts and I checked the voltage on the two outside pins on the alternator connector. Ones is 12v and the other 11.88. Would you think its the aftermarket alternator keeping the battery light on?
Hello, I don't know if you can help me. My truck start showing the battery light a few months ago. One day they was turn on and shut off by himself on my driveway. Change the battery and turn on rightaway but still getting the alert. Remove my alterntor and take to a local autoparts to get tested and say's PASS so its good. My scanner still showing P0562 System Voltage Low. So wires look good etc no corrosion on the truck. and I check this fuse and is not broke but melted and changed to a new one but still having the same issue. I need to purchase de fuse you bought from FORD? Thanks I;m getting crazy is my only car to work and if I dont work dont get paid. Thanks
I done the exact same thing by switching over to number 70. Also, changed the alternator and battery. The battery light would still stay on. So next we changed the computer and had it reprogrammed at Ford. The battery light is still staying on. Do you have any ideas?
Have a 2011 f150 eco boost all normal when start all lights and window switch are off,turn off machine and on again then the lights go on and off and battery sign shows, then all lights are off. Any suggestions?
Mine keeps blowing fuse 45 as soon as I install it it pops with the truck on or off. I just replaced the battery I do not know what else it could be? Any suggestions?
@@ThecardoctorTV I have not. Someone mentioned to me that it might be the alternator going bad but I just noticed that where my fuse 45 goes It gives me the voltage of the battery. so 12.4 with truck off and around 13-14 with truck on. So I think I might have a short. Shouldnt it not have any dc voltage on fues 45?
I figure this vid has already saved folks tens of thousands of dollars. Watching a quick ad seems like a small price to pay. I have them to help me generate more content so IM gonna leave them up for now. Thanks for watching.
Amazing. My truck had an intermittent battery warning and I was heading for an alternator replacement when I saw this video. I ran the scan and had a P0230 code. I checked the fuse and it was destroyed. I did the fix myself in 20 mins. You just save me hundreds of dollars.
Same here. 2013 f150 had the battery light come on the other day. Literally just walked outside, pulled fuse 27, and have of it has melted.
Saved me with a no start condition in a parking lot away from home, had enough fuse to reinsert and get home and replace!!! Thank you!!!
I had the same problem checked both power going into the alternator had good voltage I was going to condem the alternator but did an owns test from alternator to terminal 14 and 53 at the pcm and found the two wires from the alternator to the PCM where making contact I followed the harness and found a clamp was pinching the wires by the frame the owner had taken the truck to six different shops it took me about six hours to figure out the problem but I was not going to give up, your videos actually gave me a guidance as to what to look for it was very helpful
Thank you so much for taking the time to put this video together. You saved me from a nightmare situation. The world needs more people like you.
Thank you very much. So glad it helped.
Thanks for the video! Helped me with my 2014 intermittent battery light. Sure enough slot number 27 was toasty.
Hurry and get that Ford fixed...you got to finish building your new garage. Always enjoy Car Dr videos.
Thanks a bunch!! Great video and saved me a ton of $$. Hard to believe they they charge $50 for $5 in parts to fix an engineering issue they created!!
Thanks for the video. Had a random battery light coming on in my 2013 F-150, checked the #27 fuse you showed and found it burnt. Ordered a kit, installed it about 1 month ago and haven't had a light come on since.
Just happened today when I started going down the road, just replaced my booster and this happened about 45 mins later. Don’t really know why, but I did find that 20 amp fuse(no.27) blown on one side, the same way as the one you removed in the video. I just ordered the kit on Amazon. Thanks for the tutorial, hopefully this will fix the issue.
Great video! Helped fix my issues. Turns out fuse 27 was blown out. Easy fix.
Excellent. Blessings
Thank you so much, sir! Exactly my issue. To do the job well at 0.6 hours, I think not. Best!!!
Hi Tim, It's good to see. Awesome video thanks for sharing. I truly hope you are doing well.
You’re the best Thomas
Want to thank you so much with this video. The printed instructions were hard to follow as the print was so small and pictures were so small. This video was perfect followed and paused and watched and completed probably 45 minutes as had to keep running back in to get my tools, solder gun, heat gun, etc.. Price was $12.00 off of amazon and had to buy a solder gun from Harbor Freight was on sale so paid $15.00 total $27 and 45-55 minutes of my time. Called Ford asked them first part was $45 and I know would of been 2 hours charge so total would of been $220+.
Thanks, I caught mine just in time, one side was black, and I was able to just replace the fuse with no damage to the block.
The best master mechanic 👍👍👍
I have the same issue and found it with your help. Thanks
Very good. Take care
It's good to see you in the shop again. I always enjoy your educational videos. Good catch on the TSB. A true sign of a pro.
Thanks, I get lucky sometimes. My customer was super happy on this one.
l have been having the same problem , Went out to check my 27,fuse and sure enough burned on one side . going to order parts .
Thank you so much
Bro it almost brought tears to my eyes when I found the melted fuse in my truck after this video
Thank you very helpful!
Great Video Tim. Thank you!
Thank you.
After changing the pig tail to the alternator and the alternator itself, I found your video…it was fuse 47. $300 later…it was a damn fuse. Thank you for this video!
Glad you got it figured out. Blessings
Fuse 45…not 47 🤦♂️
Thanks for sharing the tip. Good job.
Thanks. Hope it helps someone.
What a great video!! Thank you!!
Thank you Tim!!!
Have a good weekend!
Very helpful
Thanks! Great video! Fixed my Raptor. TSB packet was $38 at dealership. Relocated fuel pump fuse 27.
Hey man, thanks so so much for this great and informative video. Fuse 27 blown out on me too. Almost the entire fuse was completely gone, except on part of the connector. Thanks for the help
Glad this helped. Thanks so much for watching my vids!
Thank you you just saved me a ton of money
Very good. Thanks for the view!
Great information, Aloha from the Big Island 🤙🏼
Thanks. Aloha!
Thank you for this video
Thank you for this informative video. Broke down in Alabama.
As Eric O. of South Main Auto Repair says "We're about to win this war!"
Excellent
Great video!
Great video Tim, but you use the negative battery terminal as the switch to keep from a spike to the electrical system. It’s the first off and the last on. When disconnecting the battery.
Why is that? I just like to prevent electrons from moving.
You are correct, either will prevent "electrons from moving". And I don't believe there is a difference in terms of a "spike to the electrical system". But it's safer to disconnect the negative first because if you were to touch something metal with the ratchet/wrench there would be no short circuit (since in that case it's ground to ground). @@ThecardoctorTV
Thanks...
This was extremely helpful thank you for your videos! New subscriber here!
Excellent!
Thanks for the video Tim. Good to see you are doing well. How is he home shop coming?
Making progress. Fun to see it coming together.
Thanks Tim. Nice job on the vid very informative. BTW how’s the new shop coming?
Hopefully have shingles down by Sunday. Lots of good progress. Blessings.
I'm going through this problem now. What caused the fuse to melt??? Will it happen again when I relocate the fuse???? Thanks for the video.
reminds me of a 69 meteor 500 living in the Yukon , went to start it one cold -45 below hit the key and nothing but a flash at the fuse box in the firewall that I could see near the floor board where the fire wall connection was , it was the ten gauge wire that fried , joined the wires together to make it to work .
Oh wow. Nice bush fix. Hope you avoided frostbite!
@@ThecardoctorTV I was in my 20's full of beer piss and vinegar
Being the old stick in the mud i am, i like the old style alternator that did the charging itself without a computer, and a monitor wire back to the battery pos.
I did say i was a stick in the mud lol :-D
Me too. This system is too complicated for its own good. If it comes back I’m putting an old school single wire alternator on it!!
I noticed the sticker on top my fuse box cover when I bought the 2012 F-150 truck and never understood why but apparently the dealership performed this procedure before I bought it. Since the purchase a year ago, I've had electrical gremlins nearly non-stop with undercharging/overcharging issues. Driving down the interstate the voltage suddenly drops from 14.3v to 12.8v and stays there until I remove foot from accelerator pedal which then returns to 14.3v. Sitting at idle in park and performing throttle snap test, voltage momentarily swings between 12.3v to 15.8v before stabilizing at 14.3v. So in the last six months I've first replaced battery, no change. Then replaced a very very very expensive 225-amp alternator, no change. I still have the old battery and alternator as apparently nothing is wrong with either so I have them as spares. I have since purchased a brand new factory OEM charging harness which runs from battery, and connects to fuse box, alternator, starter, air conditioner, and various connectors. I haven't installed it yet due to cold weather season and because it looks as if it'll take 5-8 hours to completely remove old harness and replace with new harness and I'm waiting until the weather warms up outside so I can get underneath truck to perform task. Ford Motor Companies attempt to increase fuel mileage numbers by turning off the alternator and air conditioning system when they are most needed was a stupid idea and does not work as intended. The BMS system is also a failed attempt too as you cannot listen to nor program/update the radio unless the engine is physically running while sitting parked not driving. As today's Ford trucks ignition switches do not have accessory positions, you cannot play the radio unless the engine is running. Stupid idea. I love my truck but Ford dropped the ball big time.
Have the car off and press the on button the radio . I'm not sure if your model has it but I have a xlt . Hope that helps a bit .
Excellent video! Liked....Subbed...
Good luck 👍
I need it thanks.
You are welcome
This was exactly my problem. After watching your video I checked fuse 27. Then $37 + 2 hours later = problem solved. I can't imagine what the dealer wold have charged to diagnose and fix
Probably have you fixed up for under $1000 and a few months or so downtime. 😂
My dealer had no idea what the issue was.
My fuse is good but light is on and on way home touch screen cut off power steering and abs light came on pls help
Is there a good diagnostic tool out there that is an inexpensive choice for a 2006 trailblazer?
I am getting this on my 2016 Ford Mustang eco boost and my alternator is good and battery is good as well and everything is charging but my battery light is on and it is p0625, p065b, and p0620
Why did you select fuse #27? That fuse is for the fuel pump? How is this fuse directly related to the reason that the charge system failure warning comes up?
Just came across this video looking for charging issues and wondered the same thing when he went into a fuel pump fuse tsb... why?!? What happened to the alternator charging issues?
I had the no start issue on my 2011 F150 occasionally. Went out and rattled the fuses around and it started. But it’s also giving me battery maintenance system issues and the battery light on the dash. Replaced the fuse and it all went away, so it must be connected through the PCM somehow.
very good video! do you have info on the same problem with a 2018? someone has already repaired the wire from the pcm to alternator. i get codes p0625 and p065b as you have talked about. my voltage at the battery is 12.5v off and 15.4 running. it always starts but still throws the message. any info will be appreciated. thanks
I have a 2007 Mountaineer with the 4.6L V8. Since I replaced the alternator and battery and the battery warning light came on and stayed on. It tested fine and had an output voltage between 13.9-14.4. Battery also tested good. Is it possible that there is AC voltage being leaked back to the battery?(bad diode in alternator)
My 2013 had this problem. Fuel pump fuse 27 melted. Left me stranded with crank no start. I had no idea it was also the cause of the low battery warning I keep getting.
Nice Tim thxs....By the way hows the new place coming along???
Making headway. Shingles going on this weekend. Got the below grade plumbing in so almost ready for slab. Have a good weekend!
Oh by the way... fuse 27 is the fuse for the fuel pump. I cleaned the origonal fuse socket and installed a new fuse at that location until i could get the new fuse replacment kit. REMEMBER FUEL PUMP!
I saw you replaced only 1 wire . I'm guessing the other side of the fuse goes to ground?
I have an older (2003) F150. The battery light came on last week, I checked the alternator and battery.....replaced both- since they came with the truck when I bought it a year ago. Battery light is still on, it's charging just fine, battery is great (checked both with multimeter). What would cause this? With this light triggered, am I okay to keep driving the truck until I get to a scanner to find the codes? I'll admit, I put in a Carquest alternator, I'd have to order in a Motorcraft one......and now that I'm $350 into this, I don't want to throw more money at it unless I really really need to. I can get the motorcraft one later, but my credit card needs to recover a bit from this adventure, haha.
I did this repair and it was much needed considering my fuse was burnt. However, I still have a battery light but it's never thrown any codes that my scanner would pick up. No check engine light either. I'm assuming it's that communication cable you mentioned going to the alternator. Considering how difficult it is to get to said cable, would I be better off running an entire new one?
Did it turn out to be the alternator cable ? I'm asking cause my fuse was blown too but like you there was no codes just the battery light every now and then .
@@kennethmerlos3046 yes. My cable is shorting out. I instead bought a remote battery disconnect and just push a button when I know I'm leaving the truck for more than an hour.
Hello, I have the battery icon popping up on my dash. I had that fuse already replaced. Im getting a code P0562:2C, I check the alternator output, it's 13.6. I have the MUCAR CDE 900. Its telling me to bring it to a mechanic and they'll do a diagnostic for $154.00. I thought that's what the scan tool was supposed to do.
I also have a few other codes, I don't think they're related. One says something about the power train the other is saying something about the " Immobilizer control Module!" Could these have something to do with my problem. I'd really appreciate your feed back. BTW, that was a great video.
Does this happen to all three engines? 3.5 3.7 and 5.0
HI, Thanks for the video. I put a new aftermarket alternator and a new battery on my 2012 f150. But Im still getting the battery light illuminate. THe system is charging at 13.95 volts and I checked the voltage on the two outside pins on the alternator connector. Ones is 12v and the other 11.88. Would you think its the aftermarket alternator keeping the battery light on?
Yes
Hello, I don't know if you can help me. My truck start showing the battery light a few months ago. One day they was turn on and shut off by himself on my driveway. Change the battery and turn on rightaway but still getting the alert. Remove my alterntor and take to a local autoparts to get tested and say's PASS so its good. My scanner still showing P0562 System Voltage Low. So wires look good etc no corrosion on the truck. and I check this fuse and is not broke but melted and changed to a new one but still having the same issue. I need to purchase de fuse you bought from FORD? Thanks I;m getting crazy is my only car to work and if I dont work dont get paid. Thanks
Did you find out the problem ? I’m having the same exact problem and came to this video for answers.
I done the exact same thing by switching over to number 70. Also, changed the alternator and battery. The battery light would still stay on. So next we changed the computer and had it reprogrammed at Ford. The battery light is still staying on. Do you have any ideas?
Wiring harness as mentioned
Did this end up actually correcting the battery light issue? It's weird how it's a fuel pump fuse but somehow affects the battery system?
Yes it did.
My fuse is fine but light is on and on way home touch screen went off and power steering abs light came on pls help
What is the actual cause of the melted fuse (high current draw)?
More than the (fused) circuit can handle
Hi i just replace the old battery for new one and at a stop the truck tun off
Yet another example of Ford under engineering.
What if my battery junction block does not have the fuse in it? Would adding it help anything?
What fuse are you referring to?
@@ThecardoctorTV 27
Have a 2011 f150 eco boost all normal when start all lights and window switch are off,turn off machine and on again then the lights go on and off and battery sign shows, then all lights are off. Any suggestions?
See if you have any communication codes stored
The code says battery is low but we try the battery and it’s charging good
@@delfiomontalvo5266 what is the actual code?
Mine keeps blowing fuse 45 as soon as I install it it pops with the truck on or off. I just replaced the battery I do not know what else it could be? Any suggestions?
Did you perform the TSB and it still blows the fuse?
@@ThecardoctorTV I have not. Someone mentioned to me that it might be the alternator going bad but I just noticed that where my fuse 45 goes It gives me the voltage of the battery. so 12.4 with truck off and around 13-14 with truck on. So I think I might have a short. Shouldnt it not have any dc voltage on fues 45?
My number 27 fuse shows up as a fuel pump relay power on a 2013
Yup
But you said it was for the charging system didn’t you?
How will I get alldata software
.6 hours 🤣 no wonder mechanics are always mad Lol.
Let’s go brandon
Glad you don"t work at the dealer? Probably everybody else is too! The rip and tear method just wouldn't work at a dealer....... JS
Speechless. Embarrassed for Ford. What junk....
you put in a die often battery
Hehe
Ford and their crap designs.
Bro take there fucking adds off
I figure this vid has already saved folks tens of thousands of dollars. Watching a quick ad seems like a small price to pay. I have them to help me generate more content so IM gonna leave them up for now. Thanks for watching.