The first master cylinder got bad reviews on advance' s website. People said they spent hours and could not get it to bleed out. I have the same vacuum pump you do and I will try that. Wish they would go electronic with the clutch just like the elimination of the throttle cable. Fly by wire for your clutch.
I have a 1989 chevy s10 pickup with a 2.5 liter engine. I also replaced the clutch disc and pressure plate last October with your products. And my truck sits.
@@brandonmccutcheon6972 Same problem here... 91 s10 4.3 5spd. Replaced the slave and line. Original slave leaked. Every since havent been able to get it bled no matter what I do.
I do my honda crv 200 4x4 ex 5 speed manual open the line all the way oil got Dow know the pedal no want got back need put it up my self pushing it stay down ogain some dont whatt happen let me know whatt can do it tray take out the Air can do nothing know thank
when using this method on my 2002 Subaru WRX, with the slave cylinder removed from the transmission and bleeder screw at the highest point, I get massive amounts of bubbles released, but the line never pulls solid fluid through it. I have filled the master cylinder a few times while attempting this with no success. Are there any tips as to why this is happening?
perfectionclutch Thanks for the reply Gary! I have also tried the push back method, which yielded the best result, however the pedal was still spongy at the top, and I could never get it to be as firm as before. I rebuilt the slave with all OEM replacement parts and installed a brand new OEM master cylinder with a stainless steal line in between. I can see there are no leaks in the system at any of the connection points. My only other thought is there are about 3 "U" bends in the hard line between the master and the slave that have air trapped somewhere. I've tried tapping the line with a wrench while bleeding and pushing back and got no change. I'm stumped
Hello. How to bleed the other type of master cylinder clutch which has a small internal valve in it? My car pickup point is too high so I need to lower it down a bit.
Most of the time, it helps to have the car/truck pointing up hill, or on jack stands in the front. Nearly all the bleeders are in the front/outer most point of the cylinder. If your pointed down hill, the air gets trapped in the rear, away from the bleeder screw. Also, take the bleeder screw out, and coat the threads with Permatex #2 non-hardening sealer. Nealy all cylinders have sloppy threads that will allow air to get sucked in as you try to bleed. Finally, a good investment in a power bleeder tool like Motive Products can save you allot of headaches. Vacuum Bleeding is not always successful, particularly if the hose routing is long or has "inventive" routing, like going over bell housings, or goofy bends.
Had entire system off truck as you said. Rod down pumped on rod and got 15 seconds of bubbles. I did this until it got to the point rod wouldn't move any more. Put system back together and I have some pedal BUT it refuses to release fully. I have to put the truck in gear and start it up. If I don't gears grind. i am 50 years old and NEVER HAD THIS ISSUE BEFORE!!! What makes it worse is I am bipolar. Just got another slave cylinder in the mail and it's missing the rod. This is the problem sloppy part manufacturing.
Been seeing so many videos on doing this, how in the world is the threads on your slave sealing? Mine keeps sucking air around the threads. I gave up on this method due to that problem on clutch slaves and calipers...
I tried bleeding my 1988 S10 at the slave cylinder and didn’t have any luck. I ended up reverse-bleeding by attaching a reservoir to the open bleeding valve and vacuumed it up, through the master cylinder, to the actual clutch fluid reservoir. Worked like a champ! Air tends to want to flow UP.
why send me here when I need an installment video?? Ur intrusions on my power torque slave and master said I could find installment videos on your website but only brought me here
Hello Gary. This truck is a 6 cylinder, 5 speed. It is the SL, standard cab, standard bed, 2WD. Thanks, Gina
Hello, when doing this does the clutch need to push pushed in?
Thanks for a great video! I literally learned exactly what I needed to know in less than 5 minutes. Well done
thanks, great technique. you guys are the best!!!
snaprollinpitts vauxhall frontera clutch marster silnider
Beep beep, please wait until the fork lift guys go to lunch, lol. Good information!
The first master cylinder got bad reviews on advance' s website. People said they spent hours and could not get it to bleed out. I have the same vacuum pump you do and I will try that. Wish they would go electronic with the clutch just like the elimination of the throttle cable. Fly by wire for your clutch.
I have a 1989 chevy s10 pickup with a 2.5 liter engine. I also replaced the clutch disc and pressure plate last October with your products. And my truck sits.
96 gmc 4.3 can’t get it to pull any fluid or air
Clutch pedal has no pressure either
@@brandonmccutcheon6972 Same problem here... 91 s10 4.3 5spd. Replaced the slave and line. Original slave leaked. Every since havent been able to get it bled no matter what I do.
Revis cluch bleed
hours and hours of this process with NON STOP BUBBLES AND NO CHANGE WHATSOEVER.
I do my honda crv 200 4x4 ex 5 speed manual open the line all the way oil got Dow know the pedal no want got back need put it up my self pushing it stay down ogain some dont whatt happen let me know whatt can do it tray take out the Air can do nothing know thank
when using this method on my 2002 Subaru WRX, with the slave cylinder removed from the transmission and bleeder screw at the highest point, I get massive amounts of bubbles released, but the line never pulls solid fluid through it. I have filled the master cylinder a few times while attempting this with no success. Are there any tips as to why this is happening?
perfectionclutch
Thanks for the reply Gary!
I have also tried the push back method, which yielded the best result, however the pedal was still spongy at the top, and I could never get it to be as firm as before.
I rebuilt the slave with all OEM replacement parts and installed a brand new OEM master cylinder with a stainless steal line in between. I can see there are no leaks in the system at any of the connection points.
My only other thought is there are about 3 "U" bends in the hard line between the master and the slave that have air trapped somewhere. I've tried tapping the line with a wrench while bleeding and pushing back and got no change.
I'm stumped
Did you ever figure it out?!? I’m having the same issue 30 mins straight so bubbles no solid fluid
Just do the pedal pumping like for brakes
Did not do both kinds that's what's iee need to know who will. S. Hhow th
Thanks for the video, this sucks for me because I have the other style master cylinder...
Hello. How to bleed the other type of master cylinder clutch which has a small internal valve in it? My car pickup point is too high so I need to lower it down a bit.
Most of the time, it helps to have the car/truck pointing up hill, or on jack stands in the front. Nearly all the bleeders are in the front/outer most point of the cylinder. If your pointed down hill, the air gets trapped in the rear, away from the bleeder screw. Also, take the bleeder screw out, and coat the threads with Permatex #2 non-hardening sealer. Nealy all cylinders have sloppy threads that will allow air to get sucked in as you try to bleed. Finally, a good investment in a power bleeder tool like Motive Products can save you allot of headaches. Vacuum Bleeding is not always successful, particularly if the hose routing is long or has "inventive" routing, like going over bell housings, or goofy bends.
Had entire system off truck as you said. Rod down pumped on rod and got 15 seconds of bubbles. I did this until it got to the point rod wouldn't move any more. Put system back together and I have some pedal BUT it refuses to release fully. I have to put the truck in gear and start it up. If I don't gears grind. i am 50 years old and NEVER HAD THIS ISSUE BEFORE!!! What makes it worse is I am bipolar. Just got another slave cylinder in the mail and it's missing the rod. This is the problem sloppy part manufacturing.
Been seeing so many videos on doing this, how in the world is the threads on your slave sealing? Mine keeps sucking air around the threads. I gave up on this method due to that problem on clutch slaves and calipers...
i have a 2006 GMC Sierra with the other type of master cylinder. How is this one bled?
I tried bleeding my 1988 S10 at the slave cylinder and didn’t have any luck. I ended up reverse-bleeding by attaching a reservoir to the open bleeding valve and vacuumed it up, through the master cylinder, to the actual clutch fluid reservoir. Worked like a champ!
Air tends to want to flow UP.
why send me here when I need an installment video?? Ur intrusions on my power torque slave and master said I could find installment videos on your website but only brought me here