I appreciate anyone who takes the time to post up a doo-hickey how to. Watching a few others doing it certainly prevents a lot of mistakes and answers a lot of questions. Great KLR community.
Did mine today. 2005, 16,000 miles. Spring was broke. Don't know how long it's been like that. But the chain seemed fine. Engine case noise is noticeably quieter. Glad I did it. My bike has been extremely reliable and I want to keep it going. Your video definitely helped!
Excellent video and very comprehensive explanation. Straight to the point without any BS and long drawn-out talk. Truly the best fideo out there on the dookickey install! Instant LIKE! Greetings from Alaska.
Thanks. I'm doing this again on my "new" 2007 KLR. DId it on my first 2007 KLR and my doo was broken into 2 pieces. That KLR is in process of becoming my rat scrambler. Impact wrench sure looks nice. Using a 4 foot break bar was pretty scary the first time I did it.
Just turned 7k miles on my Gen2. Doing another ride in September to Terlingua ghost town in West Texas...gonna do the doohickey this August. Great video and +1 for the Tusk panniers.
Brutal that Kawasaki never upgraded this low cost part. I did mine when I had the stator cover off to replace an exploded pulse coil from a rock impact (should have put a decent skid plate on). The spring was broken and just lying there waiting to get sucked up into the motor. I had to fish out a mile of coil wire that was wrapped around the cam chain sprocket as well...lesson learned!
It's a good idea to check the chain and guides when you have all the covers off. They do tend to ware out and break apart. Cheap and easy to replace the guides. Surprised he never even looked at them.
When you add panniers upgrade the coil spring on the rear shock..happy-trails has the red eibach upgrade springs.there are many different ones to choose from. I chose the one step down from the highest. Awesome upgrade. Rocky mountain act sells the spring compressor and has a great how to video
Great video. Did you dig out that broken part of the spring or could it potentially still be in there? Also, a little thing, but a bit of oil on the seal around the oil filter cover is a good idea. Oh and one last thing! When you change your oil, when you fire the bike up to pump oil through the galleries that first time, pull the ignition coil/s off the spark plug/s so the engine only turns over but can’t fire up, otherwise you risk jumping your timing chain while it’s dry. Just extra tips for anyone interested.
Sure, a hand drill would work. I caution you to make sure the bit is exactly 90 degrees off the metal. If you drill at an angle, the spring tip could slide out. Basically make sure the drill is vertical and not at an angle.
Nice job on the video. I'm about to replace the Pulser Coil that was exploded by a rock impact last fall, and will be changing the Doohicky to an Eagle Mike unit at the same time. Of course I'll finally be replacing the ridiculous plastic skid plate with a quality aluminum unit too. If I'd done the skid plate right away I never wold have exploded the Pulser Coil, but then again I probably wouldn't have the engine open to do the Doohicky now either, and yes...the spring has failed same as yours. The bike currently has 14500km, who knows when the spring failed but man that seems to be one lame set up from the factory.
Not sure where the highway pegs came from they were on the bike when I bought it however I have sold the bike and I still had the highway pegs. I re-powder-coated them Cherry illusion if you're interested let me know and I might be able to sell it to you for cheap. They are literally sitting on my shelf in my garage taking up space.
Question Jarhead, Right around the 5:00 minute mark right after you pulled the flywheel off and the gear behind it, it looked like a little "key" fell out with the gear? Is that correct? I have watched your video 3 times and will watch it at least 5 more times before I pick up a wrench. You did an outstanding job with camera as well as a detailed description of each move you made. I appreciate the time you put into doing this video and I feel confident I can tackle this upgrade. Thank you for doing this! And THANK YOU for your service!!!
Did you prime that oil filter. When I change oil on my KTM exc they make a big deal about that so it doesn’t crank dry. I have a KLR as well thanks for how to.
Great video.. Just bought a 2012 KLR 650 with 2600 miles today. I was told the Doohickie mod was done. Is there any way to tell if this has been done for sure, besides pulling side cases? Thanks Mike
Thanks man, very well done. Informative & easy to follow video. I even watched it at 2x speed and your voice wasn't annoying haha! Great footage and walkthrough.
I did mine last sunday on my 2012, got it from eagle mike Mfg. the only input I could give is from watching Leftcoastklrbalancer upgrade was to consider adjusting torque value if using an extension as I did for the outside case. BTW semper Fi
No extra material. Earthquake xt impact from harbor freight. Not sure about the broke spring tip, as I drained the oil before i removed the side cover. It most likely came out with the old oil.
What was the mileage on the bike at this point? I'm shopping around for a used KLR and want to be sure I ask about this or if I just assume it's not done and don't again anyway. Most bikes I'm looking at have less than 10k miles...is that OK?
Is this for every year ? At 6:22 where you show the spring where is the end that was broken off ? You don't show it in your hands or anywhere in the video nor did you say anything about it . How do you know where to set the tensioner to ? If you tighten it up nothing is going to move . Do you just loosen the bolt every so often and let it move and then tighten it back up ? It seem like you would want to keep the screw lose so the spring could always be putting tension on the chain . Why wouldn't you want tension on the chain at all time ? How do you know when its time to put more tension on the chain ?
My understanding is that the doohickey is better on the gen 2 but they used the same spring. I would upgrade for piece of mind but I recommend hitting up some forums.
Sorry for the answer but i'm italian and i don't understand very well, What is the problem if u dont change the doohickey? Wich problem it Will cause? And what are the advantages after change it? Thank you
Excessive engine noise and wear, as well as the possibility that the broken spring or doohickey will get sucked into the motor and cause a catastrophic failure.
@@GIBro-mm5dj yeah my spring broke like yours did i found the end of the clip in the metal screen of the oil pickup on the clutch side. The last part of the doohicky made its way to my magnetic drain plug and got stuck to it. Fun little suprise when you go to change the oil
I forgot - I see a few old KLRs (Barbie and toy soldier green) around here. Mile crates on the back. Basically, cheap transportation for folks. I would bet they have not dealt with the doo. My theory is - never touch it and you're fine. The stretch in the balancer chain must be minimal (it's a pretty stout chain), even over several years. But it you try to adjust it and it's broken you can end up with a very slack chain and potential for chaos. My first KLR had a broken doo. Fortunately, when I'd try to adjust it it would just move with the adjuster bolt and stay in the same position. I.e. Don't adjust the balancer chain tension ever or do the doo asap and adjust to your heart's content. .
How many miles were on the bike when you did this?? I have an 07 as well, black, about 6500 miles...I'm flirting with disaster and need to do it, but have a couple trips planned right now.
skid plate, skid plate, skid plate. the plastic shit on the klr is going to break irregardless if you do a lot of riding but i can not count the number of times i came down hard and hear a huge TINK!! from a rock slamming into my skid plate and i sigh in relief that i dont have oil spilling every where. That was the first and only protection mod i did and im sure i wouldnt have gotten 220k+ out of it with out it as much as the beast bottems out
Quick question, I don't know if i have the replacement, I want to take a few hours to find out. What can I use to take the rotor bolt out without an impact gun?
Yo GI Bro I had to square mines away @ 13,000 miles You did take it down range for a shake down after the install? I still have to fill out all the necessary request forms and send forward for all my KLR parts Just the way it's done in an over seas A O.
Any specifics (engine sound, or any other hint) that might tell me when do I need to make such change? I own a KLR 650 2015 with 13k miles on it.. I got it with about 4k miles a few months ago.. Im planing to do it shortly, but still wanted to confirm tho.. cheers!
Thank You so much I have one LOW Mileage but either way the way that it was designed from factory was not good, this is much better design and replacement...Best 1 step at a time....GOD BLESS Ride Hard Ride Free But Most of all RIDE SAFE and you are not the problem.... Everyone else on the Highway is>>>>>Safety First Everyone.....
Nice job. Semper Fi PS I like the Eagle Mike drain plug even better it uses a rare earth magnet to grab all the metal particles. Also, you might want to mention to new guys on the oil filter shaft, the small end goes into engine. Also, grease threads on flywheel puller every time. Disconnect the sidestand safety switch and get a manual petcock next. Check eaglemike.com and marknet klr site for more tips. Ride on!
GI Bro, come about Sir at ease soldier Face it you get a lot of potential for less than a BMW or KTM Just a slip on pipe Jet kit /open airbox and some luggage and this bikes just about ready to go any where I do not regret my purchase of the KLR at all.
G.I. Bro... Semper Fi! Can you tell us where you rented your tools at? (Fly wheel puller and the crank shaft holding tool.) I just bought a 2008 KLR tonight and it only has 4,500 miles on it. Hopefully, everything will still be fine when I take it apart. Thanks for the video, it was clear, concise, and to the point.
Good job! If you haven’t decided on panniers yet, take a look at Mosko Moto!!!! If you have already chosen something else then.....enjoy because you chose well!
Kawasaki not addressing this in their latest models and fixing it once and for all is just lazy corporate negligence...this video puts me off buying the KLR
You drilled the hole for the torsion spring too much on the right side (at 5 O'clock). The hole should be more on the left side (more like 7 O'clock). That will cause the tension to be too small and at some point the torsion spring might stop putting any tension on the chain (as the chain extend as it wears).
Old comment but, it only needs to go on that side for newer bikes. Older bikes with a few miles on them are done on the right at 5:30. Eventually you lose adjustability which is why you don't wanna crank an older bike too high.
i bought a 2006 klr 650 2 years ago and I hear a weird noise under 3000 rpm... the guy told me he made the doohickey but i suspect he did not upgrade...
This was a great video. I'm planning on a 1997 KLR with 18,000 kilometers. So this, along with the subframe bolt upgrade, will be the first thing to do. Thanks!
me encanto tu explicacion me gustaria que me mandes un video como armo los pines de la cremallera que se me desalmo y no e logrado armarlo saludos dedes venezuela
When you understand what the spring does and knowing that yours was broken, you know that chain was slapping around beating the crap out of the two guides. The guides probably needed to be replaced with this job. They will break apart and have the potential to destroy the chain. As long as you don't mess with the chain it won't be out of timing and it's just a few bolts to change the guides. I do think your video is great but you should consider at least inspecting and probably replacing the guides.
you install the new torsion spring, and then tighten the doo down, locking it in place. THUS: the spring only pulls on the doo when you RELEASE that long bolt holding it down, and the spring doesn't do anything else the rest of the time....? so, that tells me, you don't even NEED the spring in the first place, since you adjust the doo by hand, and then tighten it down anyway...
I don't think I am following you. The spring keeps constant tension on the chain. As the chain stretches, the spring pulls on the doohickey to keep the chain tight.
You are correct in saying the spring is not doing anything when the locking nut is tight. However, when you loosen the nut the spring applies more tension to the chain. If the spring was not there, you would not be able to tighten the chain without removing the engine side cover. Hopefully I answered your question.
@@GIBro-mm5dj yeah that makes sense. So if the spring breaks and doesn't get caught between moving parts, it's not really a problem except the next time you open the engine up for an adjustment, right? So during normal operation of the engine, the spring won't be applying automatic tension adjustment on the chain, like a take-up pulley on a car's serpentine belt, but only increases tension once you loosen the locking nut. That sounds right?
Jahn Kaplank you should be adjusting your cam chain tensioner every few thousand miles. The spring allows you to do that without the hassle of opening up the engine.
Devildog I was doing the Tensioner screw adjusted and tried to torque it but the bitch ass torque wrench was probly broke coz i split the screw in half. i took the cover off and can see the broken stuck piece. Any. Ideas.? Im probly gonna doohickey it anyway
I don't like hard paniers for an adv bike. Your first unplanned "duckwalk" in sketchy terrain can cause your foot to get caught against the pannier and aa broken ankel is NOT FRIGGIN FUN, especially out in the 'boonies'...Soft bags are THE way to go if you adv ride off the fire road highways....
Watching your video from S.Africa. Thanks a lot for the video. I need to get my ass into gear and get a doohickey. Regards and keep the rubber side down
I’m a big fan of this video, BUT HOW THE HECK DOES NO-ONE MENTION THE WOODRUFF KEY!!!?? I’m up a creek cause I didn’t line it up and now it’s smashed into the slot!!
Do not use pliers to install the spring. A weak spot and future breakage can result from the sharp edge plier teeth. Better to use a screwdriver with a notch ground in it ... or similar tool.
Look up Motorcycle Adventures on youtube hard vs soft luggage which is better and motorcycle riding gear soft luggage test and review. I have watched his videos a lot and he worth looking at he has a lot of tips on travel.
At first glance yes, however you need to take it off as the spring is sandwiched between the plates. Plus you wouldn't want to drill the pilot hole while on the engine. Metal flakes = bad
I appreciate anyone who takes the time to post up a doo-hickey how to. Watching a few others doing it certainly prevents a lot of mistakes and answers a lot of questions. Great KLR community.
ruclips.net/video/hsYTaI1vL08/видео.html
Did mine today. 2005, 16,000 miles. Spring was broke. Don't know how long it's been like that. But the chain seemed fine. Engine case noise is noticeably quieter. Glad I did it. My bike has been extremely reliable and I want to keep it going. Your video definitely helped!
Excellent video and very comprehensive explanation. Straight to the point without any BS and long drawn-out talk. Truly the best fideo out there on the dookickey install! Instant LIKE! Greetings from Alaska.
Tis the season to let the bikes out of the cave up here! ak49 buddy
@@loganhahn Hell yeah! See ya around. Seward.
Perhaps edit and mention the woodruff key and the multiple torque sequence for the rotor bolt.
Ooh-Rah
Yes he just edited it out...
Will there be problems down the road because he did not torque anything during procedure ? And where did you rent the tools from ?
Thanks. I'm doing this again on my "new" 2007 KLR. DId it on my first 2007 KLR and my doo was broken into 2 pieces. That KLR is in process of becoming my rat scrambler. Impact wrench sure looks nice. Using a 4 foot break bar was pretty scary the first time I did it.
Just turned 7k miles on my Gen2. Doing another ride in September to Terlingua ghost town in West Texas...gonna do the doohickey this August. Great video and +1 for the Tusk panniers.
Good deal best of luck
Brutal that Kawasaki never upgraded this low cost part. I did mine when I had the stator cover off to replace an exploded pulse coil from a rock impact (should have put a decent skid plate on). The spring was broken and just lying there waiting to get sucked up into the motor. I had to fish out a mile of coil wire that was wrapped around the cam chain sprocket as well...lesson learned!
Damn, that's wild
It's a good idea to check the chain and guides when you have all the covers off. They do tend to ware out and break apart. Cheap and easy to replace the guides. Surprised he never even looked at them.
When you add panniers upgrade the coil spring on the rear shock..happy-trails has the red eibach upgrade springs.there are many different ones to choose from. I chose the one step down from the highest. Awesome upgrade. Rocky mountain act sells the spring compressor and has a great how to video
Great video. Did you dig out that broken part of the spring or could it potentially still be in there? Also, a little thing, but a bit of oil on the seal around the oil filter cover is a good idea. Oh and one last thing! When you change your oil, when you fire the bike up to pump oil through the galleries that first time, pull the ignition coil/s off the spark plug/s so the engine only turns over but can’t fire up, otherwise you risk jumping your timing chain while it’s dry. Just extra tips for anyone interested.
Best Doohickey tutorial Yet!!
Great lighting, great sound, GREAT VIDEO!!!!!
Did you drill it all the way through for the new EM spring?
The one part I'm worried about is drilling the hole. Do you think it could be done with a steady hand instead of a press?
Sure, a hand drill would work. I caution you to make sure the bit is exactly 90 degrees off the metal. If you drill at an angle, the spring tip could slide out. Basically make sure the drill is vertical and not at an angle.
@@GIBro-mm5dj shoot for 5 o clock
Easy. I had to drill it twice. First one was a little slack. No problems.
@@rhllnm good job
Did mine today, hand drilling was easy.
Nice job on the video. I'm about to replace the Pulser Coil that was exploded by a rock impact last fall, and will be changing the Doohicky to an Eagle Mike unit at the same time. Of course I'll finally be replacing the ridiculous plastic skid plate with a quality aluminum unit too. If I'd done the skid plate right away I never wold have exploded the Pulser Coil, but then again I probably wouldn't have the engine open to do the Doohicky now either, and yes...the spring has failed same as yours. The bike currently has 14500km, who knows when the spring failed but man that seems to be one lame set up from the factory.
Good plan, u want to get ahead of it.
Excellent video! Curious...where did you get the highway pegs?
Not sure where the highway pegs came from they were on the bike when I bought it however I have sold the bike and I still had the highway pegs. I re-powder-coated them Cherry illusion if you're interested let me know and I might be able to sell it to you for cheap. They are literally sitting on my shelf in my garage taking up space.
@@GIBro-mm5dj Thanks brother...the Cherry illusion would kind of stick out on my black bike...lol
The doo is done. Finished it up today thanks for the vid it was a great help
Good deal. Safe riding!
Question Jarhead, Right around the 5:00 minute mark right after you pulled the flywheel off and the gear behind it, it looked like a little "key" fell out with the gear? Is that correct? I have watched your video 3 times and will watch it at least 5 more times before I pick up a wrench. You did an outstanding job with camera as well as a detailed description of each move you made. I appreciate the time you put into doing this video and I feel confident I can tackle this upgrade. Thank you for doing this! And THANK YOU for your service!!!
Did you prime that oil filter. When I change oil on my KTM exc they make a big deal about that so it doesn’t crank dry. I have a KLR as well thanks for how to.
but where did the broken piece of spring go?
I bought a KLR 650 while back I don't know if it has a doohickey on it.
Do I have to go through all that crap just to check if there's one on there?
It's tough to say. You may be able to see it with a bore scope
Great video.. Just bought a 2012 KLR 650 with 2600 miles today. I was told the Doohickie mod was done. Is there any way to tell if this has been done for sure, besides pulling side cases?
Thanks Mike
Not sure, it's really tough to see inside without removing the side cover.
@@GIBro-mm5dj didn't know if I would be able to hear something or feel something different
Thanks man, very well done. Informative & easy to follow video. I even watched it at 2x speed and your voice wasn't annoying haha! Great footage and walkthrough.
nicely done!
was there anny noise before you changed doohickey?
Not really, ran just the same.
Just found your channel. Great job. I learned something and I Enjoyed it very much!!! 🏍🏍🏍
Thanks bob
Is this recommended for all years KLR650's or is it just on select years the doohickey that Kawasaki failed on this part?
Yeah most klr owners do it before they bust.
I did mine last sunday on my 2012, got it from eagle mike Mfg. the only input I could give is from watching Leftcoastklrbalancer upgrade was to consider adjusting torque value if using an extension as I did for the outside case. BTW semper Fi
Ooorah, thanks man
Did you cover the new gaskets with any material. What kind of impact wrench is that. Also did you find the broken piece of spring
No extra material. Earthquake xt impact from harbor freight. Not sure about the broke spring tip, as I drained the oil before i removed the side cover. It most likely came out with the old oil.
What was the mileage on the bike at this point? I'm shopping around for a used KLR and want to be sure I ask about this or if I just assume it's not done and don't again anyway. Most bikes I'm looking at have less than 10k miles...is that OK?
Only had like 2k miles.
Is this for every year ? At 6:22 where you show the spring where is the end that was broken off ? You don't show it in your hands or anywhere in the video nor did you say anything about it . How do you know where to set the tensioner to ? If you tighten it up nothing is going to move . Do you just loosen the bolt every so often and let it move and then tighten it back up ? It seem like you would want to keep the screw lose so the spring could always be putting tension on the chain . Why wouldn't you want tension on the chain at all time ? How do you know when its time to put more tension on the chain ?
The end drained out with the oil. Yes, you just loosen the bolt and it self adjusted.
Semper Fi. Thanks for the video. Do you know if this doohickey mod is required for all klr 650's. Getting a 2018 next week
Definitely a must do to gen1 klr's. My neighbor had a gen 2 and went 40k before it blew up.
did this problem\issue get fixed in later years?? I just bought a 2018 KLR a couple weeks with 1 mile on it. Do I need to worry about this?
My understanding is that the doohickey is better on the gen 2 but they used the same spring. I would upgrade for piece of mind but I recommend hitting up some forums.
Sorry for the answer but i'm italian and i don't understand very well,
What is the problem if u dont change the doohickey? Wich problem it Will cause? And what are the advantages after change it?
Thank you
Excessive engine noise and wear, as well as the possibility that the broken spring or doohickey will get sucked into the motor and cause a catastrophic failure.
Man yours was in much better shape than mine was the doohickey was shattered in 4 pieces and i found the spring in the oil sump
Yeah, I got lucky for sure. Hopefully you were able to remove all the metal bits.
@@GIBro-mm5dj yeah my spring broke like yours did i found the end of the clip in the metal screen of the oil pickup on the clutch side. The last part of the doohicky made its way to my magnetic drain plug and got stuck to it. Fun little suprise when you go to change the oil
Did you find the other part of the spring and remove it?
Yes, it came out when I drained the rest of the oil.
Part 3 - This time I just got the coil springs. Eagle Mike kit. I'm trusting they'll do fine with my planned twice in a lifetime adjustment.
Do you need to turn it to top dead center in order to change this
I'm not sure I got rid of the bike a couple years ago and can't remember if I had to do it then.
I forgot - I see a few old KLRs (Barbie and toy soldier green) around here. Mile crates on the back. Basically, cheap transportation for folks. I would bet they have not dealt with the doo. My theory is - never touch it and you're fine. The stretch in the balancer chain must be minimal (it's a pretty stout chain), even over several years. But it you try to adjust it and it's broken you can end up with a very slack chain and potential for chaos. My first KLR had a broken doo. Fortunately, when I'd try to adjust it it would just move with the adjuster bolt and stay in the same position. I.e. Don't adjust the balancer chain tension ever or do the doo asap and adjust to your heart's content. .
How many miles were on the bike when you did this?? I have an 07 as well, black, about 6500 miles...I'm flirting with disaster and need to do it, but have a couple trips planned right now.
I did it around 5k. Save yourself the trouble and knock it out.
@@GIBro-mm5dj Thanks for the quick answer and the video. will do soon.
skid plate, skid plate, skid plate. the plastic shit on the klr is going to break irregardless if you do a lot of riding but i can not count the number of times i came down hard and hear a huge TINK!! from a rock slamming into my skid plate and i sigh in relief that i dont have oil spilling every where. That was the first and only protection mod i did and im sure i wouldnt have gotten 220k+ out of it with out it as much as the beast bottems out
Quick question,
I don't know if i have the replacement, I want to take a few hours to find out. What can I use to take the rotor bolt out without an impact gun?
Just use a breaker bar you will still need the rotor holder tool though
Yo GI Bro I had to square mines away @ 13,000 miles You did take it down range for a shake down after the install? I still have to fill out all the necessary request forms and send forward for all my KLR parts Just the way it's done in an over seas A O.
For sure. Definitely test ride after
I might buy a klr. What size drill bit and is there any pictures of the exact placement of drill 🕳
Not sure, they send you a bit with the eagle mike kit.
Any specifics (engine sound, or any other hint) that might tell me when do I need to make such change? I own a KLR 650 2015 with 13k miles on it.. I got it with about 4k miles a few months ago.. Im planing to do it shortly, but still wanted to confirm tho.. cheers!
Ir is definitely a preemptive procedure. Mine had no sounds or indication that the spring busted.
@@GIBro-mm5dj thnks for the reply mate! great video btw!
Nice work! I'll reference this video when I do mine.
Nice, you have a great channel. Gonna check out your vids as well.
Thank You so much I have one LOW Mileage but either way the way that it was designed from factory was not good, this is much better design and replacement...Best 1 step at a time....GOD BLESS Ride Hard Ride Free But Most of all RIDE SAFE and you are not the problem.... Everyone else on the Highway is>>>>>Safety First Everyone.....
Thanks Bud, ride safe as well!
Nice job. Semper Fi PS I like the Eagle Mike drain plug even better it uses a rare earth magnet to grab all the metal particles. Also, you might want to mention to new guys on the oil filter shaft, the small end goes into engine. Also, grease threads on flywheel puller every time. Disconnect the sidestand safety switch and get a manual petcock next. Check eaglemike.com and marknet klr site for more tips. Ride on!
GI Bro, come about Sir at ease soldier Face it you get a lot of potential for less than a BMW or KTM Just a slip on pipe Jet kit /open airbox and some luggage and this bikes just about ready to go any where I do not regret my purchase of the KLR at all.
G.I. Bro... Semper Fi! Can you tell us where you rented your tools at? (Fly wheel puller and the crank shaft holding tool.) I just bought a 2008 KLR tonight and it only has 4,500 miles on it. Hopefully, everything will still be fine when I take it apart. Thanks for the video, it was clear, concise, and to the point.
I bought mine from Rocky mountain atv
@@GIBro-mm5dj Do you still have the part number, all I'm seeing on their site now look totally different from the one in you video.
Прокладка есть в комплекте?
Good job!
If you haven’t decided on panniers yet, take a look at Mosko Moto!!!!
If you have already chosen something else then.....enjoy because you chose well!
Watched a few of these vids - yours is outstanding. Thanks!
Thanks, I need to get back to it.
The long list of shit I need to do keeps growing haha great video man!
There's always something to do.
Great video. Easy to watch and follow along. Looking forward to more videos from GI
Best doo video I have seen so far! Thank you. Safe travels!
Kawasaki not addressing this in their latest models and fixing it once and for all is just lazy corporate negligence...this video puts me off buying the KLR
How did you set up your high way pegs?
How did you get the flywheel assembly off?
With the flywheel puller.
Good Vid. Doing it on my 2001. USMC here too....0311 E 2/7. Oooooooh RAH!
Hello, Do you have the video of the replacement of the water pump seals of klr 650?
great vid, i'm doing a 692 motard conversion. doing the doo tomorrow
Hell yeah bro
You drilled the hole for the torsion spring too much on the right side (at 5 O'clock). The hole should be more on the left side (more like 7 O'clock). That will cause the tension to be too small and at some point the torsion spring might stop putting any tension on the chain (as the chain extend as it wears).
Ok
Old comment but, it only needs to go on that side for newer bikes. Older bikes with a few miles on them are done on the right at 5:30. Eventually you lose adjustability which is why you don't wanna crank an older bike too high.
Didn’t notice, were you able to find the broken piece off that stock spring? Wouldn’t want that floating around in there.
Never found it, but it could have flushed out when I changed the oil.
oh, one other thing, you should've mentioned the woodruff key....
Torque specs would be helpful
i bought a 2006 klr 650 2 years ago and I hear a weird noise under 3000 rpm... the guy told me he made the doohickey but i suspect he did not upgrade...
That sucks.
This was a great video. I'm planning on a 1997 KLR with 18,000 kilometers. So this, along with the subframe bolt upgrade, will be the first thing to do. Thanks!
I also have the subframe bolt kit I just never installed it yet. Maybe a good thing to do this weekend.
I just did mine now I hear the chain noise. Basically sounds like the chain running around sprockets is that normal
Mine had a little wine, but no friction sound. Can you open and confirm everything is properly aligned?
me encanto tu explicacion me gustaria que me mandes un video como armo los pines de la cremallera que se me desalmo y no e logrado armarlo saludos dedes venezuela
Great job! Thanks for making it look doable!
Tusk panniers... it's the way to go
Does the 2018 version of the lkr 650 have this issue?
I hear that the gen 2 has a stronger doohickey, but a crappy spring. Many folks swap it out just to be sure.
Who the F would thumbs down this? Great video! Liked and subbed
I hope that hex plug is a good metal. Not fun if you strip it out. Or break the harbor Freight allen wrench in there. -My life bro
Nice video!! (And I like the comments below, too. All are a great help!!) By the way, did this job really take 4 hours?
Yeah, took my time on it. It can be done quicker, but why rush.
@@GIBro-mm5dj Thanks!!! Was wondering!
Never comment, this is a good video,
Спасибо брат. Закажу сегодня же.
Nie vieo , please put the torque spec in for the crank bolt .
Semper Fi brother. Get some... Dirt that is... Happy trails
Thanks pal. Summer is coming.
When you understand what the spring does and knowing that yours was broken, you know that chain was slapping around beating the crap out of the two guides. The guides probably needed to be replaced with this job. They will break apart and have the potential to destroy the chain. As long as you don't mess with the chain it won't be out of timing and it's just a few bolts to change the guides. I do think your video is great but you should consider at least inspecting and probably replacing the guides.
Nice job on the video!
you install the new torsion spring, and then tighten the doo down, locking it in place.
THUS: the spring only pulls on the doo when you RELEASE that long bolt holding it down, and the spring doesn't do anything else the rest of the time....?
so, that tells me, you don't even NEED the spring in the first place, since you adjust the doo by hand, and then tighten it down anyway...
I don't think I am following you. The spring keeps constant tension on the chain. As the chain stretches, the spring pulls on the doohickey to keep the chain tight.
You are correct in saying the spring is not doing anything when the locking nut is tight. However, when you loosen the nut the spring applies more tension to the chain. If the spring was not there, you would not be able to tighten the chain without removing the engine side cover. Hopefully I answered your question.
@@GIBro-mm5dj yeah that makes sense. So if the spring breaks and doesn't get caught between moving parts, it's not really a problem except the next time you open the engine up for an adjustment, right? So during normal operation of the engine, the spring won't be applying automatic tension adjustment on the chain, like a take-up pulley on a car's serpentine belt, but only increases tension once you loosen the locking nut. That sounds right?
@@jahnkaplank8626 exactly! That's how it works.
Jahn Kaplank you should be adjusting your cam chain tensioner every few thousand miles. The spring allows you to do that without the hassle of opening up the engine.
You didnt put the woodruff key back in!
Devildog I was doing the Tensioner screw adjusted and tried to torque it but the bitch ass torque wrench was probly broke coz i split the screw in half. i took the cover off and can see the broken stuck piece. Any. Ideas.? Im probly gonna doohickey it anyway
Appreciate the video! Got to get her done.
thanx man.good job.
Anybody seen steel chain guards for sale? If not im going to be doing some fabrication.
I don't like hard paniers for an adv bike. Your first unplanned "duckwalk" in sketchy terrain can cause your foot to get caught against the pannier and aa broken ankel is NOT FRIGGIN FUN, especially out in the 'boonies'...Soft bags are THE way to go if you adv ride off the fire road highways....
I decided on some soft bags. Cheaper and easier.
Watching your video from S.Africa.
Thanks a lot for the video. I need to get my ass into gear and get a doohickey.
Regards and keep the rubber side down
I’m a big fan of this video, BUT HOW THE HECK DOES NO-ONE MENTION THE WOODRUFF KEY!!!?? I’m up a creek cause I didn’t line it up and now it’s smashed into the slot!!
Do not use pliers to install the spring. A weak spot and future breakage can result from the sharp edge plier teeth. Better to use a screwdriver with a notch ground in it ... or similar tool.
This isn't necessary for the 09+ Klrs right
highly recommend for both gens. My buddies 2011, went out at 35k miles.
@@GIBro-mm5dj it was actually 2014 +
Well done! Subscribed.
Look up Motorcycle Adventures on youtube hard vs soft luggage which is better and motorcycle riding gear soft luggage test and review. I have watched his videos a lot and he worth looking at he has a lot of tips on travel.
Cool thanks
Lookup 21 brothers they got some one peace pannas for half the price.
Good deal!
I don't have a drill press.
Be very careful doing by hand. Needs to be 90 degrees
Great vid, great explanation of hickdoey,........pissed that Kawasaki doesn't fix problem. 100% Corp. Bullshite$!#@!!!!.
Thanks brother
No doubt they looked at the cost of doing hundreds of thousands of KLR's if it were a recall, and decided to pretend there was no problem at all.
Seems like you could pull that spring out of there without taking the inner case off.
At first glance yes, however you need to take it off as the spring is sandwiched between the plates. Plus you wouldn't want to drill the pilot hole while on the engine. Metal flakes = bad
Yes. You can easily pull the spring without removing the inner case.
Might wanna upgrade the subframe bolts before you get your bags
Sounds like you were listening to crystal castles
Nailed it!
BIG mistake to use torsion spring! No space to compensate thermal expansion and vibration of chain.
What happened with yours? I take it that you had bad luck.
Torque specs where not given
Yes, the most important information is missing, what is the torque spec
Good video, devil.