Prusa Mini Bed Thermistor Repair and Splice with Silicone Wire 3DPD 3D Printer Farm Repairs

Here's a quick video fixing a common problem with the Minis, an open in the bed thermistor.
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[@3DPrintedDebris]

This is a common problem with FDM 3D Printer tech, and sooner or later you'll find yourself replacing the bed thermistor regardless of whether or not it has been chained up.
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[@asclep]

What size wire did you end up using? I tried to look for a link to the silicone wire in your list of items but didnt see it.

[@3DPrintedDebris]

16 for hotend, 12 for bed,

[@GeorgeGraves]

That's awefull thick wire for a thermistor. Any reason why, other than that's what you had on hand?

[@3DPrintedDebris]

It's for wear and tear. I haven't had a single failure of thermistors after the upgrade.

[@GeorgeGraves]

@@3DPrintedDebris That's maily due to using finely stranded silcone wire. Not it's massive size that you are using. Do you still have your print farm? Or is this an old set up?

[@3DPrintedDebris]

@@GeorgeGraves The farm is alive, well, and printing! I just took down the Etsy & eBay store as I tired of being their guest/employee. Anything physical I sell through my own website.

[@GeorgeGraves]

@@3DPrintedDebris Although that's true for the heated bed, the thermistor wires have next to no current flowing through them. Yea, etsy blows - the fees, my god the fees!

[@-gray3472]

I'm now experiencing this issue for the first time on my mini +. I found where the break in the wire was and in my case it was near the electronic box. I cut the wire there and was about to solder a new piece in-line but now I'm convinced it's better to replace as much of the wire as possible and with silicone wire. Did you ever double check to see if your temps were accurate doing what you've done in this video? In other words did the resistance value change any? I would have thought adding additional wiring and solder would have. Also, was there a reason why you chose to use a larger gauge wire for the thermistor? And finally, I just noticed the underside of your head bed has what appears to be kapton tape across the entire surface. What advantage have you found that this gives you? Great information you have posted. I'm enjoying your educational videos. Thank you for that.

[@3DPrintedDebris]

Larger wire means less resistance, and less power consumed in keeping the bed heated over time. People tend to forget about transmission losses and focus only on bed resistance.

[@Mazinga]

What heat bed cover plate did you use to fit the think s.olivine cables in?

[@3DPrintedDebris]

That was a pull off of printables, search for "Prusa Mini Bed Chain"

[@bill6255]

Do you replace Z-lead screws often, or do maintenance on them much?

[@3DPrintedDebris]

I've had to replace trap nut once on the Mini, and twice on the MK3S over the years. Never a leadscrew though, those are pretty bulletproof.

[@Robert-mb1gb]

In this video did you use a new thermistor head, or did you just add the new silicone wires to the old thermistor?

[@3DPrintedDebris]

So far I've repaired about 20 of the printers, and I can honestly say I've never had to replace the bulb itself, only the wires. And after replacing them with the silicone wire, it hasn't happened again on any of the repaired printers. I'm declaring this design flaw fixed.

[@lio1234234]

@@3DPrintedDebris nice! How long have you had them operating with the new silicone fix now without any breaking? Asking more for the mk3s really if you've done the same on those?

[@3DPrintedDebris]

@@lio1234234 Not a single failure. This looks like a "once and for all" fix for the problem.