Maple and Epoxy Valet Tray Project -
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- When Total Boat sent me some epoxy to play with, I wanted to try some less common ways of integrating it into a project (i.e. Not a river table). A tray is the perfect size to learn to work with epoxy, while making it cheap to fail.
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"See? Not hoarding, just extremely good foresight." That's good!
Thanks for the video.
The best way I've found to blend epoxy resin edges is to apply the second coat when the first reaches the "thumbnail test" stage -- when you can just dent it with a firmly applied thumbnail. It's a feel thing, but applied at that time, they blend together well. Nice foray into the resin world. Thanks for not making another river table.
I've been watching your videos for a very long time now and they are very interesting and educational, but I usually do wonder how long do parts you make take to machine. Aslo if you could show some shots of your CNCs cutting in full speed with sound that would be awesome! It helps me a lot when comparing it to my CNC since you can tell how much the machine is struggling just by listening to it cut. Keep up the good work! :)
I love your projects, they are super informative. And I think a lot of people are inspired by your designs. So please use gloves (and if working even longer with it use long sleeves) when you are even close to epoxy. Second thing- when mixing it, don't touch the container on the bottom as you are heating the resin. It is usually not a problem with so much epoxy that you have used, but if you would work with smaller batches that does reduce the working time of the resin.
"A chimpanzee with Carbide Create could make that..." -- That's going on my quote wall!
How much does it cost you??
Btw great informative vedio 👍👍
Howdy Winston, Just a FYI breathing epoxy dust is really really bad. I see you took precautions while sanding but I would really recommend wearing a mask!
Love your content!
Baki1, Don't worry I was with him we made sure we had a full pack of Marlboro Reds just for that.
I am starting to respect Winston's design capabilities more and more each time he post a video.
💯 agreed
Doing a few minute presoak with resin will not work for stopping bubbles. The resin seeps in to the wood until it gels. That can be quite a long time, varies by resin type and pour thickness of course. The best thing I've found for quickly sealing is a waxless shellac such as Bullseye Sanding Sealer. Dries fast, thin and, clear. Though I've found if the wood grain has large pores (oak, ash, catalpa) it's not quite enough and you'll even get color bleed into the pores. Probably best to use poly for something like that.
For epoxy doing the bottom, watch surfboard epoxy videos they cover it really well, it's tape just under the centerline. Wooden surfboard build videos will show you how :)
In the future if you do this again, you will want to pre preg the wood with epoxy, this is because the exposed capillaries in the end grain will soak up epoxy.
Fun stuff. I did a wood snare drum with epoxy "inlay" on my rotary cnc a while back. I had to get creative when pouring liquid epoxy on the outside of a cylinder. Watch my video if you are interested...
I like your logo. :)
Great video Again. Would you be willing to do a video on creating toolpaths in fusion 360? I know you have one from a few years ago, but it would be great to see an updated one on why you choose which toolpath 2D adaptive, contour, 3D adaptive, finishing toolpaths etc in your projects. Fusion can be a little confusing with having so many choices. I think you would do a good job at showing people how to choose the right toolpath option for each of your projects.
I second this. Great idea
Hello! Good Job! I am starring in CNC! What kind of knife in 11:22 of time in this video? I have one knife equival, but did not know how use her
Using a pressure pot would have helped hide most of your bubbles. I normally seal the wood prior to pouring the epoxy.
When choosing wood, inspect the wood for grain. I think some of your cupping issues was flat grain. Flat grain will cup easily.
This was a very nice project. I always enjoy your projects and the narrative.
Thank You
Google/youtube finishing paintings with epoxy as opposed to tables.
That's gorgeous! Thinking about making something similar next week. Need to find some epoxy somewhere.
It looks like epoxy's exit velocity easily overcomes your dust collection, or it wasn't on. I've machined it but only just got the sweepy... wondering if that isn't going to do much good on the epoxy!
Re. finishing, if you have to do two coats anyway, just bite the bullet and do the inside/top lip, then the bottom. Then you don't have to blend anything. There's no sense in creeping down the fillet just to and and try and hide that line. That's my strategy for boxes: always separate coats at a 90deg interface.
Hi Winston, What hose adaptor are you using with the dust shoe? I got my shoe a week ago but having a hard time finding a hose adaptor.
So I had to do a little digging because honestly I forgot, but I think it was the adapter that came with this hose: amzn.to/2UYOU2j
It's not my favorite as it's still a bit stiff. I use it connected to my dust separator, but I use the Rockler Dust Right Flexiport as the "last mile" connection to the CNC.
Thanks
Great stuff. Stay off the beaten path and keep it up...please. :D
I smell a crossover with Peter Brown! @ShopTime
Wouldn't doing the curing in a vacuum tank deal with the bubble problem? A large pressure cooker and a refrigeration pump, tubing, and some valve fittings should be able to do the task.
Need a pressure tank. Not a vacuum tank.
Very very cool project Winston!
Design is lit! Process is genius. So creative. Mahalo for sharing! : )
RUN\CNC ))))))))COOL( RUN DMC)
You need more subs
Cool stuff Winston. As a person who dabbles in wooden bowl turning, another option to the bottoms not being perfectly flat after you're done, is don't care :-) I like turning bowls to finished in one go, and just let them do whatever they're going to do. Sure they won't be perfectly round or sit perfectly flat, but that's part of its quirks :-)
That, and now you have me thinking about doing something like this but embedding magnets in the bottom to make my own parts trays...
My approach to two-sided finishing of handheld objects with tabletop epoxy is as follows:
1. do everything except for finishing
2. choose one side of the object to finish first
3. coat that side with epoxy and let it completely cure (with coated side up and level)
4. hot-glue a level stand to the finished side (I use plastic jars from Michaels, www.michaels.com/clear-plastic-jar-with-lid/D044390S.html, because they have two parallel planes and because they can be easily handheld, which will be important in a minute)
5. flip the object (stand is down now) and coat all other sides
6. while these sides are curing, epoxy may pool/drip - but you have a stand you can pick it up by. So wait for the epoxy to partly cure, then remove the drips/pools with any non-porous tool; I use handheld sculpting tools (www.michaels.com/artminds-sculpting-tool-set-7-pieces/10356855.html) for this
7. after the final coat is cured, pop off the stand; hot glue readily detaches from epoxy without marring the surface.
The area in which you will gain finish imperfections with this method is wherever the two epoxy coats meet, which depends on your geometry, but because of the order in which you did things, it will be typically near the lowest point of the object in steps 5&6. It may also be near the lowest points of the object in step 3, again depending on the geometry; you can mitigate this by removing epoxy drips in step 3, for which you may also need to use a hot-glued stand/handle.
It helps if you design your object so that one side is matte and one is glossy, because it is very difficult to hide imperfections at the interface of two glossy coats of epoxy applied at different times. Plus the bottom side of the object will get scuffed anyway, so if you make it matte, the scuffs will not be as glaring.
Hi Winston.... great video.... need more info on Resin please check out a great guy Zac Higgins.... one of the best in Resin and giving vital info on what you need to know... Regards
Just got to your thoughts on using epoxy in new way, My instant matching thought would be to dovetail wood & epoxy together, as 2 slabs & individually cut & machined. Using complimentary sides & base or similar interaction of the two
What's that dust shoe you have on this video? Seems 3d printed
Prototype of the Carbide3D "Sweepy" boot.
Winston, would you consider making a video on how to do Inlay's using Carbide Create? I'm particularly interested in how to do V-Carved inlays using Carbide Create.
This was helpful. I have no desire to do a river table. But something small like this would be fun to try.
I enjoyed this, great idea! Epoxy can be so fun to work with.
WIth your experience and knowledge, have you considered publishing a book? I guess books are so last century.
Hello winston! Great video again. Look what clamps do you have there did you machine them?
Very cool, shaping the epoxy on the CNC is great idea.
I was watching your video where you installed a 300W Chinese spindle, and also the video that compares DeWalt with Makita. I'm assembling a DIY CNC and was at an impasse over buying a 500W Chinese spindle or a Makita RT0700C. The price of the spindle is better but I am unsure about its quality and safety parameters ... What you think?
For woodworking, routers are way better than those Chinese DC spindles. Way more power for the cost. But for precision work, the runout of the ER collet based spindles is a little bit better. But 95% of the time, I'd rather have the power.
A heat gun is epoxy pouring's best friend for air bubbles .
Is that a 3D printed prototype of sweepy ? I'm still waiting on stock :(
How do you clean your sponge brushes? Won't the epoxy ruin them, making them one time use?
Yes. Consider them disposable. The only implement that is reusable is maybe a plastic scraper.
Hi Winston, what music do you use in the intro of this video?
Great work man. Nice design!!!
Thanks. Great project. I learned a lot.
Winston can I ask why you're not using your probe when getting your z height and instead using paper?
It's faster than untangling my probe, using it, and then trying to coil it up and put it away nicely. Don't need the precision of the probe when I'm only looking for Z-height and it's not critical.
Hey, how did you clean the foam brushes afterwards? Or do you just test these as a disposable single use item?
No way to clean it. Disposable.
The epoxy looks organic
Great video and cool project.
Which is the tool used for face milling operations ?
Surfacing bit like this one: amzn.to/2P1G7Ji
Love these WInston!!
very nice..
great
Is that a maker knife at 15:12? Great work btw, I'm ordering my first router tonight!
Indeed it is. Custom sheath, video to follow...
@@WinstonMakes oh man I dont know if I have ever been more stoked for a video
@@WinstonMakes looking forward to that video. Kydex?
@@C3DPropShop Yessir!
As a new user to Shapeoko and CNC in general, I find "a chimpanzee with Carbide Create could make that" insulting and demeaning. I really didn't need to hear that from a guy I was hoping to learn from.