I thank people like you and the community behind this who teach the public about the problems of the gamecube controller and how to fix it. As a person who is looking for my desire controller I went over 4 controller all of them having snapback but today that nightmare is no more and its all thanks to you
I'm guessing it's a remote control power valve/supply. You plug a wireless dongle into your outlets, and you can turn on/off any of the outlets remotely.
I mean after a long day at work who wants to get up off the couch and walk all the way over to the hot glue gun every time they want to change the settings
I just did this to a Switch Pro Controller and it worked out perfectly. The back shell of the controller has a circular cavity that goes behind the PCB so I just folded the wire in it so no carving is necessary on it.
I am trying to do it on a pro controller, would you mind helping me, please ? If we could go to MP, I'do love to see a picture of the way you folded the wires. Thanks in advance !!!
@@Life4Lp sorry I didn't reply earlier RUclips showed me the notification of your reply just now, I am out of town atm but I will be modding my other pro controller soon, I will make sure to take photos or record a quick video on it.
@@Mache. I did it too ! I modded my pro controller using that space you mentioned. Unfortunately, after 4 days, it seems that some of my inputs are being eaten. Need to switch to a weaker capacitor
all the hassle of whether this is legal or not would be avoided if Nintendo made actually good controllers. Or if they varied in manufacturers as much as fight sticks
Lucart it's a mechanical problem in almost all controllers. It could only be prevented by using a capacitor from the start, using stick caps with almost 0 mass (impossible) or going for a different stickbox mechanism altogether (like 3DS slide pads). The degradation in some controllers also fixes it, but I think it's unlikely that this degradation can reliably be caused from factory. (Details on this are in the posts linked from the video description)
Hello, I want to choose my capacitor precisely with an oscilloscope, but I don't have a Wii U with the snapback viewer. Do you know if I can use my PC with a particular software to have an oscilloscope or do you know another solution. Thanks in advance
I don't know if anyone has done this recently, I did this mod after my controller slowly but surely crept more and more into reversing neutral-b's almost all the time without my input. I would land and face the wrong way, I would b-reverse a move that I can't even do manually, it was so slight. On the first day, the mod worked pretty well - almost no mis-inputs. Now, however, my left-stick will randomly start drifting right when neutral, or will react to the slightest touch for an input right, but take half the entire stickbox to the left to register left. Unplugging the controller and replugging seems to be a temporary fix, but it comes and goes at random. Any ideas how to fix?
Same here with the Left stick just drifting right the moment i plug in mine, but with the reset it works flawlessly. If you did anything from the time of your post, that’d be great to read
Possibly. If you use electrolytic capacitors, after roughly 2 years maybe. Probably more like 5-10 years though. I've only been doing this for less than one year and none of the properly installed caps have failed so far. If you use ceramic capacitors, they should last at least a couple of decades from what I've read.
Awesome, thanks for the reply. I've received my shipment of ceramic caps, so I'll be performing the mod very soon. Love your videos! Very informative stuff. They've definitely helped me improve whenever I can apply them
I installed this on two controllers that had snapback and one of them is perfect and has no snapback, but the second controller now has a harder time starting a dash and running, my character walks a lot. For both controllers I used a ceramic capacitor 105. For the controller that's having issues starting a dash and running, should I use a weaker capacitor? Kadano, thank you for this video!
Yeah, 105 is actually rarely needed. For most controllers, 684 or 474 is enough for the horizontal axis while 224 or 334 is enough for the vertical axis. Keep in mind this tutorial is years old, of course there are additional things I account for by now. Hopefully I'll get to make a better one soon.
@@meleemechanics Thank you so much Kadano! I really appreciate you taking the time to answer my question. Thank you for everything you do for the community!
@@zoulwax71 You surely don't care anymore since it's a 2yo comment but the number basically means what capacity the capacitor has when you don't have too much room to write it precisely, the first 2 numbers are a capacity in pF and the last number means the power of 10 by which you multiplie the capacity value, for instance 105 means 10*10^5 pF = 10*10^2 nF = 1 µF, and 684 means 68*10^4 pF = 68*10^1 nF = 0.68 µF
I installed the mod and snapback is still happening rarely. I had trouble tightening the jumper cables and they were still holding onto the capacitor legs very loosely. Is it possible to add some sort of indicator that the connection isn't coming undone without messing it up? Like if I added an LED light or something, would that have unintentional consequences? Or maybe just some tips on how to get the jumper cables to hold onto the capacitor more snuggly?
Hey, I've got a question. For the vertical potentiometer which pin corresponds to which on the horizontal one? I'm assuming that the one on top is pin one, middle is pin two, and bottom is pin three, but I'm unsure and don't want to damage anything.
This is awesome, thank you so much for taking the trouble to make a whole video on this! I'd like to learn more about controller modding in general, and especially how the control stick inputs work. Is there a thread or other video you can link me to?
I have recently had a lot of trouble with vertical snapback after a wavedash -> fastfall off ledge. I'm only recently learning and practicing this sequence, so I know that I still have work to do with correctly timing the fastfall However.. I'm guessing that you can do a similar thing with the vertical potentiometer (which I'm assuming is the 3 pins up and left of what you were working on in this video). Which two pins should I use? Are there any differences I should look out for? I don't know that I need the horizontal mod, though if I did both, could there be any problems? Thanks!
Is there a reason you chose to use a leaded capacitor instead of a chip capacitor. I was able to fit an 0805 50V 1uf soldered between the wires without cutting the plastic at all. Seems to have worked fine, is there a drawback to doing this, or were you just using on hand supplies?
I do it the way I show in the video so the capacitor can easily be removed or replaced. Desoldering an SMD capacitor is considerably more difficult for beginners I'd say.
This is maybe a dumb question, but you're rather... cavalier when doing the actual soldering. This is probably just because you're super experienced, but it looks like you're not being careful at all to keep the two pins (minus and ground) from being soldered together, whereas I would imagine you'd have to be super careful not to connect to two so that you don't have an electrical connection between them. You even approach the rightmost pin from the left with the soldering iron, and it really looks like the two pins are being connected, or at least very close. Am I misunderstanding something, or are you just experienced enough that you weren't worried about connecting the two pins? Thanks for the video!
With a good soldering iron with a fine tip and enough experience, doesn't happen easily to solder them together by accident. The camera I used doesn't have a super-sharp resolution, so the few mm of distance between the soldering iron and the other pin is probably not that visible on the footage.
hey kadano, this worked perfectly for me. Thanks for everything youve done for the community. quick question, is it possible to do the same mod to the vertical inputs on the stickbox?
hey man, I bought a controller with this mod and i think it messes with my empty pivots in melee as i used to be super consisyent with pivot fsmash as marth and now i cant. also, might be unrelated but my c stick does incorrect inputs a lot. how do i remove this mod?
That happens when the capacitor put in is too large for your potentiometer's signal response. Ask whoever you bought it from for assistance / adjustment under warranty. How exactly to undo it depends on how the person who installed it soldered it.
Hey kando, I just installed the capacitor but the controller keeps drifting right. It stops when I remove the capacitor and scales in intensity as I go down in capacitance. Do you know a fix?
SuperLuigiGuy64 many TOs, including The Crimson Blur, who is otherwise very conservative in banning mods, are leaning towards allowing the capacitor mod, since it only causes a controller to perform like certain unmodified controllers that have degradation in their potentiometers that causes the same behavior in eliminating snapback.
Kadano I don't fucking get it. He says that there cannot be any mods onto the motherboard, but will allow adding a cap to the motherboard. Is he just not well researched on the topic? If he is going to be the face of melee TOs he needs to have a firm stance on this, otherwise his argument against smashbox has no legs. Such an arbitrary ruleset. Magus' code is a no brainer. Not being able to do 1 frame smash turns when you do everything correctly is exactly the same thing as tripping in brawl.
You can even use SMD capacitors that don't need any wire. The reason for the jumper wires is that customers can easily and quickly replace the capacitors for spare ones that I include with the controller, for lower or larger capacitances depending on the changed behavior of the stick. If you use SMD or soldered capacitors, replacing is only possible if you have a soldering iron.
I have the jp white controller and somehow it has a good stick and my lasers never go backwards. I'm actually kinda sad about it cuz it'd be fun to let Kadano teach me to fix it :(
In case anyone wants to know if this works on Nintendo switch pro controller: it works!! I needed two 4.7 uf capacitors(one for the horizontal joystick and one for the vertical). The new joysticks have a button but the procedure is basically the same.
I saw people online using 1 uf capacitors, why did you go all the way to 4.7? Asking because I want to try this and I want to see if you ran into any problems in your time.
I thank people like you and the community behind this who teach the public about the problems of the gamecube controller and how to fix it. As a person who is looking for my desire controller I went over 4 controller all of them having snapback but today that nightmare is no more and its all thanks to you
tfw your glue gun has a remote control
I'm guessing it's a remote control power valve/supply. You plug a wireless dongle into your outlets, and you can turn on/off any of the outlets remotely.
I mean after a long day at work who wants to get up off the couch and walk all the way over to the hot glue gun every time they want to change the settings
Nintendo needs to hire Kadano to design their Gamecube controllers if they ever make a new model. lol
this looks incredibly easy to do. cant wait to do it to all 4 of my snapbacking controllers!
Just did this with the GCC I use for Ultimate. Worked like a charm! Thanks again for the thorough tutorial.
420 degrees.
hot enough to blaze it
I just did this to a Switch Pro Controller and it worked out perfectly. The back shell of the controller has a circular cavity that goes behind the PCB so I just folded the wire in it so no carving is necessary on it.
I am trying to do it on a pro controller, would you mind helping me, please ? If we could go to MP, I'do love to see a picture of the way you folded the wires. Thanks in advance !!!
@@Life4Lp sorry I didn't reply earlier RUclips showed me the notification of your reply just now, I am out of town atm but I will be modding my other pro controller soon, I will make sure to take photos or record a quick video on it.
@@Mache. thanks !!!
@@Life4Lp I just finished modding it, had to go out but I will upload the video today or early tomorrow.
@@Mache. I did it too ! I modded my pro controller using that space you mentioned.
Unfortunately, after 4 days, it seems that some of my inputs are being eaten. Need to switch to a weaker capacitor
Your desk is messy, but your guide is clean. Thanks man.
all the hassle of whether this is legal or not would be avoided if Nintendo made actually good controllers. Or if they varied in manufacturers as much as fight sticks
It's really more of a problem in the games programming than a problem with the controllers themselves
Lucart it's a mechanical problem in almost all controllers. It could only be prevented by using a capacitor from the start, using stick caps with almost 0 mass (impossible) or going for a different stickbox mechanism altogether (like 3DS slide pads).
The degradation in some controllers also fixes it, but I think it's unlikely that this degradation can reliably be caused from factory. (Details on this are in the posts linked from the video description)
Hello, I want to choose my capacitor precisely with an oscilloscope, but I don't have a Wii U with the snapback viewer. Do you know if I can use my PC with a particular software to have an oscilloscope or do you know another solution. Thanks in advance
Is there is a substitute for the 1μ capacitor?
I don't know if anyone has done this recently, I did this mod after my controller slowly but surely crept more and more into reversing neutral-b's almost all the time without my input. I would land and face the wrong way, I would b-reverse a move that I can't even do manually, it was so slight.
On the first day, the mod worked pretty well - almost no mis-inputs. Now, however, my left-stick will randomly start drifting right when neutral, or will react to the slightest touch for an input right, but take half the entire stickbox to the left to register left. Unplugging the controller and replugging seems to be a temporary fix, but it comes and goes at random.
Any ideas how to fix?
Same here with the Left stick just drifting right the moment i plug in mine, but with the reset it works flawlessly. If you did anything from the time of your post, that’d be great to read
@@gamefreaker54 Nope, still just wing it and hope it works properly to this day.
It doesn't.
i could watch you do this and listen to you for hours on end
If the capacitor is installed correctly, will I have to replace if after some time?
Possibly. If you use electrolytic capacitors, after roughly 2 years maybe. Probably more like 5-10 years though. I've only been doing this for less than one year and none of the properly installed caps have failed so far.
If you use ceramic capacitors, they should last at least a couple of decades from what I've read.
Awesome, thanks for the reply. I've received my shipment of ceramic caps, so I'll be performing the mod very soon.
Love your videos! Very informative stuff. They've definitely helped me improve whenever I can apply them
you're a genius
Wait so you just soldered the two points of the analog stick to a ceramic capacitor ? That’s it ?!
Does this work with the Switch Pro controller too?
I installed this on two controllers that had snapback and one of them is perfect and has no snapback, but the second controller now has a harder time starting a dash and running, my character walks a lot. For both controllers I used a ceramic capacitor 105. For the controller that's having issues starting a dash and running, should I use a weaker capacitor?
Kadano, thank you for this video!
Yeah, 105 is actually rarely needed. For most controllers, 684 or 474 is enough for the horizontal axis while 224 or 334 is enough for the vertical axis. Keep in mind this tutorial is years old, of course there are additional things I account for by now. Hopefully I'll get to make a better one soon.
@@meleemechanics Thank you so much Kadano! I really appreciate you taking the time to answer my question. Thank you for everything you do for the community!
What does 105 mean? 1mf? Or 105 is higher than that? Im confused :(
@@zoulwax71 You surely don't care anymore since it's a 2yo comment but the number basically means what capacity the capacitor has when you don't have too much room to write it precisely, the first 2 numbers are a capacity in pF and the last number means the power of 10 by which you multiplie the capacity value, for instance 105 means 10*10^5 pF = 10*10^2 nF = 1 µF, and 684 means 68*10^4 pF = 68*10^1 nF = 0.68 µF
I installed the mod and snapback is still happening rarely. I had trouble tightening the jumper cables and they were still holding onto the capacitor legs very loosely. Is it possible to add some sort of indicator that the connection isn't coming undone without messing it up? Like if I added an LED light or something, would that have unintentional consequences? Or maybe just some tips on how to get the jumper cables to hold onto the capacitor more snuggly?
Hey, I've got a question. For the vertical potentiometer which pin corresponds to which on the horizontal one? I'm assuming that the one on top is pin one, middle is pin two, and bottom is pin three, but I'm unsure and don't want to damage anything.
Actually I found it, here's a picture for anyone else with the same question.
twitter.com/kadano/status/835970193281146880?lang=en
Homie, I was just thinking about this question to myself. You're a lifesaver with the info you found and posted! You the real MVP.
This is awesome, thank you so much for taking the trouble to make a whole video on this! I'd like to learn more about controller modding in general, and especially how the control stick inputs work. Is there a thread or other video you can link me to?
Harrison Phillips have you read the posts linked in the video description and the threads I posted them in? There's plenty information in there.
I'm kinda confused, does this make empty pivots in smash 4 easier? Cause this makes empty pivots in Melee almost impossible.
I have recently had a lot of trouble with vertical snapback after a wavedash -> fastfall off ledge. I'm only recently learning and practicing this sequence, so I know that I still have work to do with correctly timing the fastfall
However.. I'm guessing that you can do a similar thing with the vertical potentiometer (which I'm assuming is the 3 pins up and left of what you were working on in this video). Which two pins should I use? Are there any differences I should look out for? I don't know that I need the horizontal mod, though if I did both, could there be any problems?
Thanks!
You can do the same for the vertical pins. It's the middle and lower pin then. You can also check my GCC PCB pinout on kadano.net =)
Please reply soon if you see this, would a 1uF 25V Tantalum capacitor work?
Would this affect Smash 4 SDI inputs at all?
Thanks
Is there a reason you chose to use a leaded capacitor instead of a chip capacitor. I was able to fit an 0805 50V 1uf soldered between the wires without cutting the plastic at all. Seems to have worked fine, is there a drawback to doing this, or were you just using on hand supplies?
I do it the way I show in the video so the capacitor can easily be removed or replaced. Desoldering an SMD capacitor is considerably more difficult for beginners I'd say.
This is maybe a dumb question, but you're rather... cavalier when doing the actual soldering. This is probably just because you're super experienced, but it looks like you're not being careful at all to keep the two pins (minus and ground) from being soldered together, whereas I would imagine you'd have to be super careful not to connect to two so that you don't have an electrical connection between them. You even approach the rightmost pin from the left with the soldering iron, and it really looks like the two pins are being connected, or at least very close.
Am I misunderstanding something, or are you just experienced enough that you weren't worried about connecting the two pins?
Thanks for the video!
With a good soldering iron with a fine tip and enough experience, doesn't happen easily to solder them together by accident. The camera I used doesn't have a super-sharp resolution, so the few mm of distance between the soldering iron and the other pin is probably not that visible on the footage.
does this snapback mod make it more difficult/ miss more dash backs??
hey kadano, this worked perfectly for me. Thanks for everything youve done for the community. quick question, is it possible to do the same mod to the vertical inputs on the stickbox?
word thanks for clearing that up for me !!!
what happened i was wondering this too
@@malters7136 damn its been a minute, i dont even remember
hey man, I bought a controller with this mod and i think it messes with my empty pivots in melee as i used to be super consisyent with pivot fsmash as marth and now i cant. also, might be unrelated but my c stick does incorrect inputs a lot. how do i remove this mod?
That happens when the capacitor put in is too large for your potentiometer's signal response. Ask whoever you bought it from for assistance / adjustment under warranty. How exactly to undo it depends on how the person who installed it soldered it.
@@meleemechanics thanks man!
Hey kando, I just installed the capacitor but the controller keeps drifting right. It stops when I remove the capacitor and scales in intensity as I go down in capacitance. Do you know a fix?
watch the video and come back
Is this mod acceptable in tournaments?
still in debate, but according to the wide swath placed forth in the APEX 2015 ruleset (the most common ruleset), no.
Christopher Birnbaum Alright, thanks for the reply.
SuperLuigiGuy64 many TOs, including The Crimson Blur, who is otherwise very conservative in banning mods, are leaning towards allowing the capacitor mod, since it only causes a controller to perform like certain unmodified controllers that have degradation in their potentiometers that causes the same behavior in eliminating snapback.
Kadano Informative, thank you so much :]
Kadano I don't fucking get it. He says that there cannot be any mods onto the motherboard, but will allow adding a cap to the motherboard. Is he just not well researched on the topic? If he is going to be the face of melee TOs he needs to have a firm stance on this, otherwise his argument against smashbox has no legs. Such an arbitrary ruleset. Magus' code is a no brainer. Not being able to do 1 frame smash turns when you do everything correctly is exactly the same thing as tripping in brawl.
What is the purpose of the jumper cables? Wouldn't a wire work just as well?
You can even use SMD capacitors that don't need any wire. The reason for the jumper wires is that customers can easily and quickly replace the capacitors for spare ones that I include with the controller, for lower or larger capacitances depending on the changed behavior of the stick.
If you use SMD or soldered capacitors, replacing is only possible if you have a soldering iron.
That makes sense! Thank you!
Will you ever make a mod that makes the d-pad into one big taunt button?
Melee Mechanics by Kadano cool
I have the jp white controller and somehow it has a good stick and my lasers never go backwards. I'm actually kinda sad about it cuz it'd be fun to let Kadano teach me to fix it :(
pls somehow make it not read the tilt turn area on frame one even if it means one frame slower forward dashes PLEASE
Just use Magus' code.
but muh netplay.
no forreal, is it even possible to do?
id really like to try making it work but i dont know where to start
Misunderstood and accidentally bought some 680 *nano*farads. Oops lol. Easy enough to remove and fix.
Does this help in smash4 in any way?
Can this be used to eliminate tap jump?
In case anyone wants to know if this works on Nintendo switch pro controller: it works!! I needed two 4.7 uf capacitors(one for the horizontal joystick and one for the vertical). The new joysticks have a button but the procedure is basically the same.
I saw people online using 1 uf capacitors, why did you go all the way to 4.7? Asking because I want to try this and I want to see if you ran into any problems in your time.
I'm also wondering how you chose 4.7 µF capacitors, could you explain ? Did you use an osciloscope ?
Here from Ludwig
Anyway you can just make it for me and I pay?
Read the description
So if I install this on a pro controller, (I know it works) would I still need the jumper wires if there is plenty of room to soldier?