Someone heard but did not hear, it seemed to him that it was better without n249 and everyone like a herd of sheep was better, and no one knows what n249 is for!!! Funny story!!!
I love the lack of engineering knowledge - yea, "you don't need any of that". just keep it plugged in so you don't get a check engine light - thumbs up.
Did you say to hook up the hose from the diverted valve to the N112? I’m just wondering I just got a car and the guy tried doing a bunch of random things to it
i only get about 4psi of boost🙃 what do you think might be the problem? dont see any leaks in hoses or nothing and i have 0 check engine lights😅 its a 1.8t
@@shsk8880 i changed turbo and got the car chipped since i think the problem was in the ecu, now i get 1.4 bar but car stutters when accelerating, think it might be bad plugs
@@DOHCamm Alright thanks for the quick response, I'm gonna do it on saturday. Thanks for keeping the vid nice and simple hope to see more coming from the TT.
i only get about 4psi of boost🙃 what do you think might be the problem? dont see any leaks in hoses or nothing and i have 0 check engine lights😅 its a 1.8t
Mine makes 22psi with the n249 and has better throttle response with it than without it. If you delete a fully working n249 then you will lose a little performance.
I have a 2001 beetle 1.8t I have never seen such junk in my life..one minute its the afm..then cam sensor..then diverter valve..misfire...rich bank 1..loss of boost pressure...check eng light on...limp mode...boost pressure sensor code...all these codes...this car is pure garbage...and the fans never stop running...I must say i will NEVER own another vw 1.8t...i never had any problems out of my 82 rabbit 1.6 turbo diesel...it has almost 400.000 miles on it...runs perfect and gets 52 mpg
Dont Blame an engine because of the old owner. I had plenty dif cars , but non reliable like 1.8T . Had One for 4 years , drive it all days , i did long distances on vacations with it too,almost had 400 000km , none a single problem besides new clutch and cranckshaf sensor... Didnt burn any oil or freezintg cooling
@@RafaelBelo14 people I got it from did nothing to it..I've replaced window regulator and motor..Both cooling fans..and module..Thermo switch and temp sensors..coil packs and plugs .valve cover gasket..N75 valve.. diverter valve..249 valve.. vacuum lines..check valves .changed oil and filter..air filter..next on the list is the airflow sensor..I still have a code po172 bank one too rich code..it bogs and stumbles sometimes..but when it runs right which is not often..lil turbo spools up and it goes pretty good... Its not fast ..When I get it figured out I'm probably going stage 3 tune . downpipe and exhaust..race n75 valve..this will be around 230 h.p. My 82 vw rabbit 1.6 turbo diesel with the Garret turbo is just as fast as this 1.8t...450.000 miles on it..I've never had any problems with the diesel engine..
Do any of you even know what the N249 is for? Do an experiment and attach a boost gauge to the vacuum line before the blow-off with and without the N249 and tell me if there is any difference in the behavior of the vacuum and the boost? What you are doing is childish! The N249 is put there so that in an emergency mode when the turbine over-inflates for some reason, it can leave the blow off open to prevent possible engine damage!!! Download an engine manual and read what the N249 is for and how it works!!! Complete nonsense, he held more boost in the highs :). If you want more boost in the highs just go tune the car!!!
It’s not for an “emergency turbo over inflation”. It’s so the diverter can open instantly as commanded by the ecu, rather than the diverter valve operating soley off a standard vacuum source. Removing it to simply and eliminate old things that fail is not childish.
@TronVila in the event that the Westgate does not open and over boosting occurs, it triggers the n249 system which keeps the diverter valve open to prevent catastrophic failure. So yes it does do this, it's another important feature of the n249 system. And why you shouldn't delete it.
249 its potential part of failure itself with these bunch of hoes. Without its more reliable. Failure rate of pop off valve is rare when you have a good one. I have a 058 block predecessor of 06A block and there was nothing of this n249 and you have much more place to work on it. Response of trottel ist much better too. Its a old school controlling without electronic components. Just with physical methods that almost can't failure.
![Tee Grizzley - Robbery 8 [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/34_vkNV6wrU/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm not sure you get more boost.. just prevents boost leaks.
The n249 is such a useful part I dont know why alot of 1.8t owners are so keen on removing it, I kept mine after the sai and n112 delete
Someone heard but did not hear, it seemed to him that it was better without n249 and everyone like a herd of sheep was better, and no one knows what n249 is for!!! Funny story!!!
Bro is not yapping mans going staright to the point gotta love that
That whistle when you start the car is the sai pumping air into your exhast
Less boost cos your turbo is slowed down by boost going back into the turbo when changing gear without the n249.
Best video of the delete ever thanks💪
aren’t use supposed to use 91 octane gasoline ?
I love the lack of engineering knowledge - yea, "you don't need any of that". just keep it plugged in so you don't get a check engine light - thumbs up.
what are the hoses you got and where did you get the thanks great video thumbs up oops got my answer from reading comments
Did you say to hook up the hose from the diverted valve to the N112? I’m just wondering I just got a car and the guy tried doing a bunch of random things to it
I have a fault code for this sensor if I were to do this would the fault not return if I clear it?
i only get about 4psi of boost🙃 what do you think might be the problem? dont see any leaks in hoses or nothing and i have 0 check engine lights😅 its a 1.8t
N75 valve needs replacing.
did you fix the problem
@@shsk8880 i changed turbo and got the car chipped since i think the problem was in the ecu, now i get 1.4 bar but car stutters when accelerating, think it might be bad plugs
Hello i got a 225 bam engine in mj mk1 leon when I start it and then it cuts off
Sick video man. Planning to do this in a couple of months. What vaccum hose size did you use?
Thanks! I’m not exactly sure I don’t remember but it’s the same vacuum hose as most of the lines
3mm or 4mm will work bud
whats it called the on that u blocked off with a blue cap?
Where you get the vacuum line cap from
Any auto store like advanced auto will have them
what blow off valve?
How much more boost do you think your making, mine makes 10psi without that delete.
it doesn't really make much more boost peak, its that it will hold it constant to redline better
@@DOHCamm Alright thanks for the quick response, I'm gonna do it on saturday. Thanks for keeping the vid nice and simple hope to see more coming from the TT.
i only get about 4psi of boost🙃 what do you think might be the problem? dont see any leaks in hoses or nothing and i have 0 check engine lights😅 its a 1.8t
Mine makes 22psi with the n249 and has better throttle response with it than without it. If you delete a fully working n249 then you will lose a little performance.
It just me or the whole vid a green screen?
Hmmm haven’t heard of that yet from anyone
@@DOHCamm I might need a new phone
this comment has me died
but any good gaughr cluster poeple?
How not to properly delete anything on your car, Lol.
You just downgraded your car.
I have a 2001 beetle 1.8t
I have never seen such junk in my life..one minute its the afm..then cam sensor..then diverter valve..misfire...rich bank 1..loss of boost pressure...check eng light on...limp mode...boost pressure sensor code...all these codes...this car is pure garbage...and the fans never stop running...I must say i will NEVER own another vw 1.8t...i never had any problems out of my 82 rabbit 1.6 turbo diesel...it has almost 400.000 miles on it...runs perfect and gets 52 mpg
Dont Blame an engine because of the old owner. I had plenty dif cars , but non reliable like 1.8T . Had One for 4 years , drive it all days , i did long distances on vacations with it too,almost had 400 000km , none a single problem besides new clutch and cranckshaf sensor... Didnt burn any oil or freezintg cooling
@@RafaelBelo14 old car..not owner..I've owned around 300 cars so far and this antique vw is the worst car I ever seen..
@@davidross-oo2vh i had old car in Extreme good conditions, and recent Cars in bad conditions... Owners are the Key
@@RafaelBelo14 people I got it from did nothing to it..I've replaced window regulator and motor..Both cooling fans..and module..Thermo switch and temp sensors..coil packs and plugs .valve cover gasket..N75 valve.. diverter valve..249 valve.. vacuum lines..check valves .changed oil and filter..air filter..next on the list is the airflow sensor..I still have a code po172 bank one too rich code..it bogs and stumbles sometimes..but when it runs right which is not often..lil turbo spools up and it goes pretty good... Its not fast ..When I get it figured out I'm probably going stage 3 tune . downpipe and exhaust..race n75 valve..this will be around 230 h.p. My 82 vw rabbit 1.6 turbo diesel with the Garret turbo is just as fast as this 1.8t...450.000 miles on it..I've never had any problems with the diesel engine..
Do any of you even know what the N249 is for? Do an experiment and attach a boost gauge to the vacuum line before the blow-off with and without the N249 and tell me if there is any difference in the behavior of the vacuum and the boost? What you are doing is childish! The N249 is put there so that in an emergency mode when the turbine over-inflates for some reason, it can leave the blow off open to prevent possible engine damage!!! Download an engine manual and read what the N249 is for and how it works!!! Complete nonsense, he held more boost in the highs :). If you want more boost in the highs just go tune the car!!!
It’s not for an “emergency turbo over inflation”. It’s so the diverter can open instantly as commanded by the ecu, rather than the diverter valve operating soley off a standard vacuum source. Removing it to simply and eliminate old things that fail is not childish.
@TronVila in the event that the Westgate does not open and over boosting occurs, it triggers the n249 system which keeps the diverter valve open to prevent catastrophic failure. So yes it does do this, it's another important feature of the n249 system. And why you shouldn't delete it.
249 its potential part of failure itself with these bunch of hoes. Without its more reliable. Failure rate of pop off valve is rare when you have a good one. I have a 058 block predecessor of 06A block and there was nothing of this n249 and you have much more place to work on it. Response of trottel ist much better too. Its a old school controlling without electronic components. Just with physical methods that almost can't failure.
is that car mapped. only mine not that fast tt quatro 225
Manual boost controller turned up