You should have told us WHY you wanted hex head bolts to replace those ridiculous Torx 55 headed bolts. You might have mentioned that the after market Torx heads are even more shallow than the stock Ford Torx head bolts and easily slip and strip out the head of the bolt when attempting to get that final 1/4 stretch turn on the head bolts. As it is, torquing inside the engine compartment is next to impossible there is so much stuff in the way and attempting to use a long extension with a U-Joint on the extension to reach the bolt heads is guaranteed to strip the bolt head unless you have someone in the engine compartment holding the extension straight. It is possible to torque hex head bolt to regulation specifications and that final 1/4 turn bolt stretch. Thank you for the page with the bolt torques and torque pattern. That was useful information.
Hey I didn't see the little nylon cups for keeping pushrod to lifter connection bathed in oil. They just snap on to the top of the lifter. Or were they discontinued? I actually bought a lifter just for the plastic piece .
I know, that's why I installed new head bolts but also your only part correct. The SOHC 4.0 has torque-to-yield head bolts but the OHV 4.0 does not have torque-to-yield head bolts. Now it is good practice to replace head bolts regardless if they are torque-to-yield or not. All head bolts stretched it just torque-to-yield stretches more. I replace head bolts no matter what engine it is.
@@TEDDAV64 The Ford manual states: 1. Install gaskets and heads onto dowls and install head bolts to 44 ft-lbs in sequence. Use an alternating X-pattern starting with the middle bolts and working to the outers. 2. Install lower intake manifold onto two locating studs and tighten bolts in same X pattern except starting with the outers and then centers to 3-6 ft-lbs. 3. Tighten the head bolts now in sequence to 60 ft-lbs. 4. Tighten the intake bolts in sequence to 6-11 ft-lbs. 5. For final head bolt tightening, turn the bolts an additional 80 to 85 degrees tighter in sequence. 6. Tighten the intake now to 11-15ft-lbs in sequence, then tighten them again in sequence to 15-18ft-lbs. This procedure should be followed to allow for the proper fit of the parts and gasket crush.
Glad to see videos of this kind of engines, they're unkillable.
Can wait to see how that camshaft sound
Best video on it yet
love these videos man i’m doing the exact same thing right now! “half ass rebuild”
You should have told us WHY you wanted hex head bolts to replace those ridiculous Torx 55 headed bolts. You might have mentioned that the after market Torx heads are even more shallow than the stock Ford Torx head bolts and easily slip and strip out the head of the bolt when attempting to get that final 1/4 stretch turn on the head bolts. As it is, torquing inside the engine compartment is next to impossible there is so much stuff in the way and attempting to use a long extension with a U-Joint on the extension to reach the bolt heads is guaranteed to strip the bolt head unless you have someone in the engine compartment holding the extension straight.
It is possible to torque hex head bolt to regulation specifications and that final 1/4 turn bolt stretch.
Thank you for the page with the bolt torques and torque pattern. That was useful information.
Thinking about rebuilding mine. Considering using flat top pistons
That Copper spray should only be used if you are building a "Race Engine". I would suggest using it on Street vehicle's
What's the problem with using it on a street engine?
Hey I didn't see the little nylon cups for keeping pushrod to lifter connection bathed in oil. They just snap on to the top of the lifter. Or were they discontinued? I actually bought a lifter just for the plastic piece .
Nice
Hey buddy them head bolts are one time use only
I know, that's why I installed new head bolts but also your only part correct. The SOHC 4.0 has torque-to-yield head bolts but the OHV 4.0 does not have torque-to-yield head bolts. Now it is good practice to replace head bolts regardless if they are torque-to-yield or not. All head bolts stretched it just torque-to-yield stretches more. I replace head bolts no matter what engine it is.
What's the part number for the CAT bolts and washers?
Awesome video ❤ thanks million
Doesn't the lower intake need to be torqued down before the head bolt torque sequence? I remember reading that somewhere, but i could be wrong.
No on this engine the head bolts need to be torque down before the installation of the lower intake. You might be thinking of another engine.
@@TEDDAV64 The Ford manual states:
1. Install gaskets and heads onto dowls and install head bolts to 44 ft-lbs in sequence. Use an alternating X-pattern starting with the middle bolts and working to the outers.
2. Install lower intake manifold onto two locating studs and tighten bolts in same X pattern except starting with the outers and then centers to 3-6 ft-lbs.
3. Tighten the head bolts now in sequence to 60 ft-lbs.
4. Tighten the intake bolts in sequence to 6-11 ft-lbs.
5. For final head bolt tightening, turn the bolts an additional 80 to 85 degrees tighter in sequence.
6. Tighten the intake now to 11-15ft-lbs in sequence, then tighten them again in sequence to 15-18ft-lbs.
This procedure should be followed to allow for the proper fit of the parts and gasket crush.
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