what a nice detailed video!!! just quick question, dont we want lil bit of air filtration tho? if not mold can create? like in an attic for example. or blocking every hole and letting no air flow is best ? 🤔
That's a good question. I'm not the "expert" in this, but I will surmise after seeing many barns with spray foam.... Firstly, the metal covering itself is tight, but not so tight that some mild air movement won't happen. Also, here in Indiana / Ohio, our weather fluctuates heavily and we get very dry in the winter. My theory is the ebb and flow of humidity levels keep the moisture in check. We have done numerous "re-skin" projects and I've seen barns with foam after many years and none yet have had any mold. Glad you liked the video, we're trying to be helpful!
Those people may have a minimum charge who gave you that quote. However I would tell you that’s astronomical. Right now closed cell spray foam is running about $1.55 to 2 dollars per square foot. Your building should have been quoted anywhere between $900 on the low end and $1500 on the high side.
Do you put house wrap on the underside of the roof as well? Then spray over that? Seems like it would sag from the weight. Then you say 15” off closed cell? What about potential leaks in the roof? I’m doing PBR panel on full metal building. Thanks
There are liquid based air barriers that don't require closed cell phone. Seems way less expensive to use an thick elastmeric air barrier than 2lb foam to get the same effect.
No because foam expands and finds its way into nooks an eye can't see where liquid only has gravitational drop to find WHT you can't see. And if you use a blower door to test you'll see every missed coverage area any bigger than like the tip of screw driver
I've seen some people do 2 or 3" of CCSF on the top of the drywall even on their ceilings in the house. We don't really recommend doing CCSF on the backside of a roof, but it has been done. However, depending on how much your vaulted ceiling is pitched - you can do blown-in cellulose - but it may slide down a bit over time. You just want the attic to be able to "breath" a little bit.
We are building a pole barn house and doing some homework on the vapor barrier on our metal roof, it's between drip stop on the metal panels or regular panels then close cell spray foaming. Any suggestions? Thanks!
if you are using CCSF on the back of the roof metal, it doesn't seem like you'd need to use drip stop. Honestly, I recommend using OSB under the metal on the residential side of pole barn homes. It does add some cost, but in the long run, it makes a much stronger structure. Maybe I've just seen too many trees fall on barns and think about the additional roof integrity.
Connecticut has a new law where exterior wall cavities must be "6 thick with proper ventilation installed due to proper air flow etc. It's a movement to save on energy cost. How would "6 of Cellose spray foam effect the house. What is it's r-value and such a thickness? Can such a depth be obtainable and efficient? What are some of the problems you can run into in such a thick wall?
Honestly, any house we build in Indiana or Ohio would use a 2x6 exterior frame wall. But, you could get amazing insulation value by doing 2" of Closed Cell spray foam and then batt insulation over top. 2" of CSF = R14 + batt insulation of R19 would equal a pretty cozy house. 6" of CSF is way overkill and would cost you probably 10$ per SF! Open Cell Spray Foam is different and could fill the whole cavity. Talk to three different insulators from your area and ask each of them to give you a "Basic" and "Best" method to insulate your new house and see what they say!
Exactly. That's what you want to spray on, not the metal. That's why you should always put housewrap on a barn in case you ever choose to use sprayfoam.
Great Video, I have a project and need to spray foam my vaulted ceiling, but I will be taking the tin off and spraying from outside in. My question. Can i, or does it make sense to fill the entire vault with the 5.5" and be flush with the ceiling rafters to get maximum R value. or am I better off or is it the correct way to spray say 2" of foam and then put fiberglass insulation over that?? Thanks
If you have the money to afford 5 inches of closed cell spray foam, nothing is going to beat that. That would give you at least an R 35 value directly on your ceiling and would be a total game changer to keep the heat from radiating into your space. However that’s very expensive. If you have the cavity depth then you could easily do 2 inches of foam and a batt insulation on top. Any insulation is going to be better than no insulation.
@@barnandhome really appreciate your professional advice, in the case I did do the 2" closed cell with batt on top. Is that in the order of having the spray foam on my interior ceiling? so facing inside and then lay the batt insulation over that, so that batt insulation would be on my tin side? or vise versa? Thank you
@@jvskyrud Firstly, I’m the one asking the questions in this interview, not the guy doing the insulation. My primary business is constructing buildings, however, traditionally the spray foam would be attached to the exterior wall, or in your case the backside of the roofing material. If you can only insulate by pulling the roof off instead of doing it from the inside, I’m not sure how you would pull this off? I would be curious to hear from a professional insulator about your question, I don’t know why you couldn’t spray foam onto the back of your ceiling material, and then lay batt insulation on top of that and then put your roof on. I’ve just never seen that done before.
@@barnandhome Thank you for the input, very much appreciated. I should get ahold of some local guys and pick their brain. Does make me think to, if I would have any problems doing it backwards from how you usually do it. But I may just resort to filling it right up so I know I wont have any worries. But I really do appreciate your input and if anyone in this expertise would know. Please chime in. Thanks!!
@@jvskyrud BATT INSULATION ALWAYS ON THE WARM/ ROOM SIDE BECAUSE OF VAPOR BARRIER/ CONDENSATION; FOAM NEXT TO THE TIN SHEETS. MY HUSBANDS AN ARCHITECT.
What about the moisture issues often associated with metal exteriors? Spraying for on a perfectly dry wall would stay that way for the lifetime of the building would you say?
Yeah good question, it's why we always recommend you spray onto house wrap and not directly onto the metal. If you did not put house wrap on and have an older Barn you want to spray foam, you can see my other insulation video where we used white styrofoam as our base layer.
Yes you can't spray it against an internal tyvek or house wrap it won't adhere properly and yes it has to be 100 percent moisture free upon application or your asking for trouble
I'm building a steal metal barn would 2 inches of closed-cell be enough on the roof to keep it properly insulated? I had a guy try to quote me on doing 1-inch open-cell and then 4 inches on top of that. What do you think about that? Would it really work?
Hey Joe.... 2 inches will get you R14 value with CCSF. Residential building code here in Indiana is R19. If you are working in that shop all year round it might be worth it to invest a little more in insulation upfront. For people who want a well-done space I am personally a fan of one or two inches of closed cell foam and then hanging batt insulation over top where possible.
Can you recommend anyone in Oklahoma City or south of the city? I really want to put this on my roof on the inside, but do not want a joker company that will do a bad job or does not mix their ingredients incorrectly.
My biggest recommendation is look for a company that has public reviews. And just talk to a manager or owner of the business and ask them specifically about some of your concerns… if they’ve ever had problems with mixing and what happens. Most people are pretty honest and will talk it through with you.
I just want to point out that the spray foam does not stop radiant heat. A radiant heat barrier and an air gap is necessary for that. I don't understand why he said that it stops radiant heat. And it reduces air flow, NOT stop air flow. Short answer is the foam has a higher density than fiberglass. While the benefits of the foam are better than fiberglass, he is exaggerating the sales pitch.
I think he does a fantastic job technically explaining for laymen. I have watched multiple insulation videos on RUclips where people go into more of the science of each product. The bottom line with insulation is although we give each an R-value per se, they do perform differently.
hhmmm... well, I find that most of these spray foam guys around here charge between 95 cents to $1.35 per square foot for 1 inch, then the second inch runs about 80% of that cost for the second inch. Probably the cost of material and extra time.
Sounds like the foam guy will only take job if he can get you to buy the most expensive and take you for as much as he can get out of you, maybe some people can't afford the most expensive..
This is perhaps the best description and explanation of spray foam that I have heard thus far. 👍
Thanks for the positive comment. We’ve enjoyed putting together helpful videos for barn and home builders.
what a nice detailed video!!! just quick question, dont we want lil bit of air filtration tho? if not mold can create? like in an attic for example. or blocking every hole and letting no air flow is best ? 🤔
That's a good question. I'm not the "expert" in this, but I will surmise after seeing many barns with spray foam.... Firstly, the metal covering itself is tight, but not so tight that some mild air movement won't happen. Also, here in Indiana / Ohio, our weather fluctuates heavily and we get very dry in the winter. My theory is the ebb and flow of humidity levels keep the moisture in check. We have done numerous "re-skin" projects and I've seen barns with foam after many years and none yet have had any mold. Glad you liked the video, we're trying to be helpful!
Great info Thanks, I have a 12x24x10 shed, I was just quoted $2500.00 for 1inch Closed Cell.
Those people may have a minimum charge who gave you that quote. However I would tell you that’s astronomical. Right now closed cell spray foam is running about $1.55 to 2 dollars per square foot. Your building should have been quoted anywhere between $900 on the low end and $1500 on the high side.
Closed cell foam also has structural benefits.
Yup adds 1/3 the structural benefit as if you solidified it with concrete
Do you put house wrap on the underside of the roof as well? Then spray over that? Seems like it would sag from the weight. Then you say 15” off closed cell? What about potential leaks in the roof? I’m doing PBR panel on full metal building. Thanks
You need to spray onto a drainage sheet with a VB towards the sheathing.
Excellent explanation.
15" of closed cell on the underside of the roof? Am I hearing that correctly?
I love this stuff
There are liquid based air barriers that don't require closed cell phone.
Seems way less expensive to use an thick elastmeric air barrier than 2lb foam to get the same effect.
No because foam expands and finds its way into nooks an eye can't see where liquid only has gravitational drop to find WHT you can't see. And if you use a blower door to test you'll see every missed coverage area any bigger than like the tip of screw driver
Do you need a vapor barrier before you install the ceiling and blown insulation?
Yes or no. People have mixed thoughts on it. 7/10 installs for us do not include plastic.
If I'm building a shop home vaulted ceilings I would want to go closed spray foam?
I've seen some people do 2 or 3" of CCSF on the top of the drywall even on their ceilings in the house. We don't really recommend doing CCSF on the backside of a roof, but it has been done. However, depending on how much your vaulted ceiling is pitched - you can do blown-in cellulose - but it may slide down a bit over time. You just want the attic to be able to "breath" a little bit.
Can I do 15 " on a blk metal roof with rain abd storm barrier without any moister getting stuck between the closecell foam and roof sheeting??
hey guys - we just launched a few videos to encourage and inspire you in barn building. subscribe to stay up to date, we've got cool stuff coming!
We are building a pole barn house and doing some homework on the vapor barrier on our metal roof, it's between drip stop on the metal panels or regular panels then close cell spray foaming. Any suggestions? Thanks!
if you are using CCSF on the back of the roof metal, it doesn't seem like you'd need to use drip stop. Honestly, I recommend using OSB under the metal on the residential side of pole barn homes. It does add some cost, but in the long run, it makes a much stronger structure. Maybe I've just seen too many trees fall on barns and think about the additional roof integrity.
Connecticut has a new law where exterior wall cavities must be "6 thick with proper ventilation installed due to proper air flow etc. It's a movement to save on energy cost. How would "6 of Cellose spray foam effect the house. What is it's r-value and such a thickness? Can such a depth be obtainable and efficient? What are some of the problems you can run into in such a thick wall?
Honestly, any house we build in Indiana or Ohio would use a 2x6 exterior frame wall. But, you could get amazing insulation value by doing 2" of Closed Cell spray foam and then batt insulation over top. 2" of CSF = R14 + batt insulation of R19 would equal a pretty cozy house. 6" of CSF is way overkill and would cost you probably 10$ per SF! Open Cell Spray Foam is different and could fill the whole cavity. Talk to three different insulators from your area and ask each of them to give you a "Basic" and "Best" method to insulate your new house and see what they say!
So you can spray foam directly to the house wrap?
Exactly. That's what you want to spray on, not the metal. That's why you should always put housewrap on a barn in case you ever choose to use sprayfoam.
I have a 24x30x12 shop with the bubble foil insulation. Can I spray over that?
Great Video, I have a project and need to spray foam my vaulted ceiling, but I will be taking the tin off and spraying from outside in. My question. Can i, or does it make sense to fill the entire vault with the 5.5" and be flush with the ceiling rafters to get maximum R value. or am I better off or is it the correct way to spray say 2" of foam and then put fiberglass insulation over that??
Thanks
If you have the money to afford 5 inches of closed cell spray foam, nothing is going to beat that. That would give you at least an R 35 value directly on your ceiling and would be a total game changer to keep the heat from radiating into your space. However that’s very expensive. If you have the cavity depth then you could easily do 2 inches of foam and a batt insulation on top. Any insulation is going to be better than no insulation.
@@barnandhome really appreciate your professional advice, in the case I did do the 2" closed cell with batt on top. Is that in the order of having the spray foam on my interior ceiling? so facing inside and then lay the batt insulation over that, so that batt insulation would be on my tin side? or vise versa? Thank you
@@jvskyrud Firstly, I’m the one asking the questions in this interview, not the guy doing the insulation. My primary business is constructing buildings, however, traditionally the spray foam would be attached to the exterior wall, or in your case the backside of the roofing material. If you can only insulate by pulling the roof off instead of doing it from the inside, I’m not sure how you would pull this off? I would be curious to hear from a professional insulator about your question, I don’t know why you couldn’t spray foam onto the back of your ceiling material, and then lay batt insulation on top of that and then put your roof on. I’ve just never seen that done before.
@@barnandhome Thank you for the input, very much appreciated. I should get ahold of some local guys and pick their brain. Does make me think to, if I would have any problems doing it backwards from how you usually do it. But I may just resort to filling it right up so I know I wont have any worries. But I really do appreciate your input and if anyone in this expertise would know. Please chime in.
Thanks!!
@@jvskyrud BATT INSULATION ALWAYS ON THE WARM/ ROOM SIDE BECAUSE OF VAPOR BARRIER/ CONDENSATION; FOAM NEXT TO THE TIN SHEETS. MY HUSBANDS AN ARCHITECT.
What about the moisture issues often associated with metal exteriors? Spraying for on a perfectly dry wall would stay that way for the lifetime of the building would you say?
Yeah good question, it's why we always recommend you spray onto house wrap and not directly onto the metal. If you did not put house wrap on and have an older Barn you want to spray foam, you can see my other insulation video where we used white styrofoam as our base layer.
Yes you can't spray it against an internal tyvek or house wrap it won't adhere properly and yes it has to be 100 percent moisture free upon application or your asking for trouble
I'm building a steal metal barn would 2 inches of closed-cell be enough on the roof to keep it properly insulated? I had a guy try to quote me on doing 1-inch open-cell and then 4 inches on top of that. What do you think about that? Would it really work?
Hey Joe.... 2 inches will get you R14 value with CCSF. Residential building code here in Indiana is R19. If you are working in that shop all year round it might be worth it to invest a little more in insulation upfront. For people who want a well-done space I am personally a fan of one or two inches of closed cell foam and then hanging batt insulation over top where possible.
I'm from Nigeria insulator, pls do you have online training
WhatsApp number
Can you recommend anyone in Oklahoma City or south of the city? I really want to put this on my roof on the inside, but do not want a joker company that will do a bad job or does not mix their ingredients incorrectly.
My biggest recommendation is look for a company that has public reviews. And just talk to a manager or owner of the business and ask them specifically about some of your concerns… if they’ve ever had problems with mixing and what happens. Most people are pretty honest and will talk it through with you.
I just want to point out that the spray foam does not stop radiant heat. A radiant heat barrier and an air gap is necessary for that. I don't understand why he said that it stops radiant heat. And it reduces air flow, NOT stop air flow. Short answer is the foam has a higher density than fiberglass. While the benefits of the foam are better than fiberglass, he is exaggerating the sales pitch.
I think he does a fantastic job technically explaining for laymen. I have watched multiple insulation videos on RUclips where people go into more of the science of each product. The bottom line with insulation is although we give each an R-value per se, they do perform differently.
Boiler up!
When my daughter started attending Purdue my wife went to the thrift store and bought every shirt she found!
15" of closed cell will definitely break the bank.
15” of blown cellulose! Big difference
Why does that extra inch not cost so much? This is literally like painting. All the work goes into the prep and cleanup.
hhmmm... well, I find that most of these spray foam guys around here charge between 95 cents to $1.35 per square foot for 1 inch, then the second inch runs about 80% of that cost for the second inch. Probably the cost of material and extra time.
It doesn't reduce cost past the fist inch it reduces time to install.
Radiaflect backed by rockwool
Sounds like the foam guy will only take job if he can get you to buy the most expensive and take you for as much as he can get out of you, maybe some people can't afford the most expensive..
The worst insulation ever.
@@johnblasik9647why the unnecessary hostility little man? Lol. I’m a chemist and worked in the industry.
@@johnblasik9647 Hostile and unable to comprehend basic English. Great way to go through life. 😉