Bought a S80. Galvanized. Love it. Set on 5/16 hi- tensile all chain. 38’ boat. Have anchored from Boston to Fl to Bahamas, Caribbean, panama, pacific and pacific NW. best all around that I have experienced in 30 yrs of cruising. Thanks for all your work on this project.
Great to see someone giving anchors a serious test with good video footage. I used a steel Spade S80 anchor with a 10mm all chain rode for 14 years on my 10 ton Van de Stadt ketch, on many types of sea bed in winds up to 40 knots with currents up to 5 knots and never had a problem.
Hey Steve. I just realized that watching your videos, especially the ones featuring the Spade, make me feel like other people probably do when they are watching a football game. I'm really rooting for the Spade to do well and feel very good when it does. Again, awesome work!
As a product evaluator, it would be best if I remained unemotional during the tests. Unfortunately, I am human and end up "rooting" for anchors. Fortunately, I tend to root for ALL anchors equally. Fair test.
Aye Steve, love your improvements by putting text data in the image. And this is an impressing test. Love this anchor nerding vids. They are really helpful. And that final scene is like a big bonus!
I use an S140 based on your tests. I've only used it a handful of times but I like it. Getting it to set in hard sand is tough but I think that would be true of most. 14 metric ton steel 38 foot boat, all chain 10mm.
I believe Spade's are used by the RNLI (Royal National Lifeboat Insitituion) Britains volunteer rescue boat service, which is a pretty signifcant vote of confidence in my opinion :-)! (Incidentally poor terrorised crabs :-)!)
Steve thank you for the test. The great thing is, you can test and modify the anchors for better performance all at the same time in your shop. The stainless 21 pound Spade is my choice for a 25 feet boat. However, Looking at the bottom side of the anchor I see that the lead cavity is not fully filled with lead. As this anchor is light by design and in the testing we saw that heavier tip would help rotate the anchor into upright attack position faster, I will likely add lead to the cavity, to the brim so to speak. This is my primary anchor that lives on the bow. Disassembly is not important to me. After filling the cavity with lead I weld a closing ss plate to the anchor to seal the lead chamber. The added ballast will directly transfer into increased tip weight. What do you think, what would be your comments on this mod. Thanks, Roman
Roman, I did a quick measurement on my 21 pound Spade. I found that the location of the "added lead" that you propose is closer to the "ear" of the fluke than the tip. While this added lead will increase the tip weight, the weight at the ear will increase even more. The tip to total weight ratio might actually decrease. Testing would be needed to verify the affects of this modification. Welding a SS cover plate over the lead will lead to rusting of the anchor along the weld line. Re-galvanizing will not be possible with enclosed lead. The developers of the Spade anchor did their homework. Improving it will not be easy.
Steve, thank you for the reply. This is an interesting discussion that may be giving us a glimpse into why smaller anchor of the same type perform less satisfactory compared to larger heavier anchors. By adding lead to Spade cavity at the tip on the bottom side of the anchor will change the total weight to tip weight ratio. It will also have 3 substantial effects. 1. Regardless of the ratio there will be more weight on the tip forcing the tip to penetrate more aggressively into hard to medium substrate. 2. In case the anchor flips on it's back there will be a larger moment forcing the anchor to rotate back into the setting position. 3. Overall the weight of the anchor will increase pushing the anchor more firmly into the bottom in setting position in all substrates. The only disadvantage would be in soft soupy mud where the increased weight at the fluke reduces the anchor penetrating moment on the tip when laying on the side. This maybe countered by the larger anchor overall weight and the added weight being on the anchor bottom side. This shows that there is no substitute for anchor weight during anchor setting. As long as the weight is added on the bottom side of the anchor the heavier anchor of the identical size should outperform the lighter anchor. And then there is the last famous line.......there is no substitute for testing😁 Thank you Steve for showing us the true world of how anchors work in real life.
Increased sea life is because sea life, small and great, like to hide in seaweed and thus bigger predators come in to hunt for food then, in my view. Not sure what triggered the sudden extra weed growth though, extra sunlight or pollution with fertilisers, perhaps.
If I may be critical, and I believe you to be a man who finds helpful constructive criticism, I feel it would have been helpful if you had mentioned the depth of water you were in and/or the length of the nylon rode used. Perhaps you could add this information to the video text description. Also, for search engine purposes, perhaps you could add in the title ‘All chain vs rope plus short chain rode’.
No question that I should have included depth/rode length when using all chain (I used the "usual amount" - 26 ft + 4ft bow roller/105 ft). For the rope road test, I reasoned that depth/rode length made little difference (at a particular scope) as there is virtually no catenary regardless of depth/rode length. However, now that you mention it, the rode length DOES affect the amount of shock absorption during the reset test. Thanks for the suggestion.
Another great test video. Thanks! I note you will be testing a larger Viking anchor, looking forward to that video. Will you be testing it in both the concave and convex configuration? Any further thoughts to my suggestion of retesting the small Viking 7 in the concave configuration? Would be interesting to see if there is any change in mud accumulation or holding power, etc.
Ross, I wrote a note to Viking seeking confirmation that they approve mounting the fluke "upsidedown". If they say yes, then I will test as such. Thanks for the suggestion (again).
Would the 60 work for a bluewater 23t. Dry weight 3450 fully loaded estimated at 6k. Next size up 80 is only in aluminum. Have you tested to aluminum spades??
I think the S80 would be the safer choice. The information on the Spade Anchor USA website is not clear about availability. Can you confirm that the S80 is no longer available? I have never tested an aluminum Spade.
Actually this is one of the annoying issues with the Spade for smaller cruising boats in that the jump from S60 @21lb to S80 @33lb in weight is quire large. My boat is just under 26ft with a dry displacement of 5400lb and the S60 is supposedly too light according to their tables. They should have one in between, an S70 at say, around 27lbs.,
Don't understand why u insist on pushing the threaded shackle end thro the attachmet hole in those spade anchors ... just as easy to put the pin thro ...
Greetings Gordon. The threaded "boss" of the shackle will not fit through appropriately sized chain links. Therefore, unless one accepts using two shackles (I Don't), then there is no other way of making the connection. Another important reason, is that the load rating of a shackle is for straight line loads (no side loading). If the pin passes through the anchor as you suggest, the shackle will not be allowed to pivot, which can result in a side loaded shackle. Lastly, some bow rollers have limited width and/or have sharp edges that will "catch" the shackle pin ear. If the pin passes through the anchor, the shackle will not pivot with the result of the anchor being stuck.
Bought a S80. Galvanized. Love it. Set on 5/16 hi- tensile all chain. 38’ boat. Have anchored from Boston to Fl to Bahamas, Caribbean, panama, pacific and pacific NW. best all around that I have experienced in 30 yrs of cruising. Thanks for all your work on this project.
Thanks for sharing, Fred
Great to see someone giving anchors a serious test with good video footage. I used a steel Spade S80 anchor with a 10mm all chain rode for 14 years on my 10 ton Van de Stadt ketch, on many types of sea bed in winds up to 40 knots with currents up to 5 knots and never had a problem.
Hey Steve. I just realized that watching your videos, especially the ones featuring the Spade, make me feel like other people probably do when they are watching a football game. I'm really rooting for the Spade to do well and feel very good when it does. Again, awesome work!
As a product evaluator, it would be best if I remained unemotional during the tests. Unfortunately, I am human and end up "rooting" for anchors. Fortunately, I tend to root for ALL anchors equally. Fair test.
Aye Steve, love your improvements by putting text data in the image. And this is an impressing test. Love this anchor nerding vids. They are really helpful. And that final scene is like a big bonus!
Discovering the footage of that Skate was quite the surprise!
I use an S140 based on your tests. I've only used it a handful of times but I like it. Getting it to set in hard sand is tough but I think that would be true of most. 14 metric ton steel 38 foot boat, all chain 10mm.
I believe Spade's are used by the RNLI (Royal National Lifeboat Insitituion) Britains volunteer rescue boat service, which is a pretty signifcant vote of confidence in my opinion :-)! (Incidentally poor terrorised crabs :-)!)
The arc shape of chain weight is called "catenary", if you haven't run into the term. :)
Thanks
👍👍👍 Thank you.
Have you ever tested a Slide Anchor?
Steve thank you for the test. The great thing is, you can test and modify the anchors for better performance all at the same time in your shop. The stainless 21 pound Spade is my choice for a 25 feet boat. However, Looking at the bottom side of the anchor I see that the lead cavity is not fully filled with lead. As this anchor is light by design and in the testing we saw that heavier tip would help rotate the anchor into upright attack position faster, I will likely add lead to the cavity, to the brim so to speak. This is my primary anchor that lives on the bow. Disassembly is not important to me.
After filling the cavity with lead I weld a closing ss plate to the anchor to seal the lead chamber. The added ballast will directly transfer into increased tip weight.
What do you think, what would be your comments on this mod.
Thanks, Roman
Roman, I did a quick measurement on my 21 pound Spade. I found that the location of the "added lead" that you propose is closer to the "ear" of the fluke than the tip. While this added lead will increase the tip weight, the weight at the ear will increase even more. The tip to total weight ratio might actually decrease. Testing would be needed to verify the affects of this modification.
Welding a SS cover plate over the lead will lead to rusting of the anchor along the weld line. Re-galvanizing will not be possible with enclosed lead.
The developers of the Spade anchor did their homework. Improving it will not be easy.
Steve, thank you for the reply. This is an interesting discussion that may be giving us a glimpse into why smaller anchor of the same type perform less satisfactory compared to larger heavier anchors.
By adding lead to Spade cavity at the tip on the bottom side of the anchor will change the total weight to tip weight ratio. It will also have 3 substantial effects.
1. Regardless of the ratio there will be more weight on the tip forcing the tip to penetrate more aggressively into hard to medium substrate.
2. In case the anchor flips on it's back there will be a larger moment forcing the anchor to rotate back into the setting position.
3. Overall the weight of the anchor will increase pushing the anchor more firmly into the bottom in setting position in all substrates.
The only disadvantage would be in soft soupy mud where the increased weight at the fluke reduces the anchor penetrating moment on the tip when laying on the side. This maybe countered by the larger anchor overall weight and the added weight being on the anchor bottom side.
This shows that there is no substitute for anchor weight during anchor setting. As long as the weight is added on the bottom side of the anchor the heavier anchor of the identical size should outperform the lighter anchor.
And then there is the last famous line.......there is no substitute for testing😁 Thank you Steve for showing us the true world of how anchors work in real life.
Increased sea life is because sea life, small and great, like to hide in seaweed and thus bigger predators come in to hunt for food then, in my view. Not sure what triggered the sudden extra weed growth though, extra sunlight or pollution with fertilisers, perhaps.
Should have watched the whole vid!
Would all chain do better? Say 3/8 chain?
Fukushima
If I may be critical, and I believe you to be a man who finds helpful constructive criticism, I feel it would have been helpful if you had mentioned the depth of water you were in and/or the length of the nylon rode used. Perhaps you could add this information to the video text description. Also, for search engine purposes, perhaps you could add in the title ‘All chain vs rope plus short chain rode’.
No question that I should have included depth/rode length when using all chain (I used the "usual amount" - 26 ft + 4ft bow roller/105 ft).
For the rope road test, I reasoned that depth/rode length made little difference (at a particular scope) as there is virtually no catenary regardless of depth/rode length. However, now that you mention it, the rode length DOES affect the amount of shock absorption during the reset test.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Another great test video. Thanks! I note you will be testing a larger Viking anchor, looking forward to that video. Will you be testing it in both the concave and convex configuration? Any further thoughts to my suggestion of retesting the small Viking 7 in the concave configuration? Would be interesting to see if there is any change in mud accumulation or holding power, etc.
Ross, I wrote a note to Viking seeking confirmation that they approve mounting the fluke "upsidedown". If they say yes, then I will test as such. Thanks for the suggestion (again).
@@flygoodwin okay, cool :-) Thanks for the update.
Would the 60 work for a bluewater 23t. Dry weight 3450 fully loaded estimated at 6k. Next size up 80 is only in aluminum. Have you tested to aluminum spades??
I think the S80 would be the safer choice. The information on the Spade Anchor USA website is not clear about availability. Can you confirm that the S80 is no longer available? I have never tested an aluminum Spade.
@@flygoodwin I will look into it. On their page it was only showing aluminum for the 80. Thank you for responding. You do awesome work!!!
@@flygoodwin I just called and they do have the s80 in galvanized. The website was a bit confusing.
What boat is a bluewater "23t"? I have a Contessa 26 and am trying to decide S60 or S80, both are galvanized steel.
Actually this is one of the annoying issues with the Spade for smaller cruising boats in that the jump from S60 @21lb to S80 @33lb in weight is quire large. My boat is just under 26ft with a dry displacement of 5400lb and the S60 is supposedly too light according to their tables. They should have one in between, an S70 at say, around 27lbs.,
Don't understand why u insist on pushing the threaded shackle end thro the attachmet hole in those spade anchors ... just as easy to put the pin thro ...
Greetings Gordon. The threaded "boss" of the shackle will not fit through appropriately sized chain links. Therefore, unless one accepts using two shackles (I Don't), then there is no other way of making the connection.
Another important reason, is that the load rating of a shackle is for straight line loads (no side loading). If the pin passes through the anchor as you suggest, the shackle will not be allowed to pivot, which can result in a side loaded shackle.
Lastly, some bow rollers have limited width and/or have sharp edges that will "catch" the shackle pin ear. If the pin passes through the anchor, the shackle will not pivot with the result of the anchor being stuck.
@@flygoodwin Got it, thanx.