I just got this identical item (I think it comes from the same manufacturer but is cheaper and listed as a no label product) and I could not get it to work. I have used a soldering iron forever so I took these nickel strips and pressed both electrodes and thppt! Nothing. Barely heated it up. After seeing your vid and a bit of thinking seems I can use one probe to hold the strip down on the battery and the other probe (where I want the weld) I only GENTLY touch. BOOM! That does the trick. After time the learning curve in this method starts to come more and more. A very useful tool for future projects! Thanks!
Thank you for this detailed review. It helped a lot in picking the right tool. I found one that looks and operates exactly the same from a different brand. They upped the battery to 11,000 mAh, but otherwise I cannot see any difference. Works as advertised.
With all the portable stuff one could carry around from the portaable charging station, to a portable soldering pen, portable spot welder, etc, one will need a portable desk to hold it all.
I got the version with no display and have been strugeling with a poor welding untill I saw this video, telling me to push gently on the propes and voila :D Thanks :D
I have one like this and it works wonders. It's a different brand but looks quite similar except for the digital screen. Love the idea of that screen to make sure your settings are correct. Works great for making DIY lithium ion packs.
@@bradykirk9932 the one I purchased seems great, with that said I haven't used it in quite a while. If I can remember I'll try to use it soon and reply again. Mine is pushing 2.5 yrs now. Edit : just grabbed it and yup the battery seems dead. I'm currently trying to charge it and I'll update later
Great video. I've never messed with building battery packs before, but this looks like a great way to rebuild some of the dead Milwaukee packs I have laying around with quality cells.
Definitely. I've seen videos where they take existing packs apart and of multiple cells, only one is bad. By combining good cells, they recover packs worth decent money.
That's why I'm looking into this. Milwaukee batteries are so expensive anymore. I'm looking at getting batteries from liion wholesale. Apparently they're authorized distributor for several brands. Looking at the high drain batteries. I've seen some videos of people soldering the batteries but I'm pretty sure you can damage the cells really easily doing that.
@@jrgmty7685 I'm going to open a small business, repairing and rebuilding power tools battery packs. Going to open with a newer unit than this one. I think this model was a 7500 mah unit. I'm going with the 10,000 or 11,000 model with a big color LCD
jrg mty...I have done 19 power packs and it's still welding fine. I will not use nickel plated steel. Now, with pure nickel it will take .10 easy, .15, it's wide open. I like the .12mm nickel strips
Hey thanks for the video. Really useful.. You opened it up and I'd like to know more about it as I bought one of these and it does not power on. Any tips or ideas?
I'm not sure, but it doesn't seem to be a capacitive discharge spot welder - seems like a high power resistive welder. I saw this because the strips seem to have heat discoloration (blackness) and also the wood got too hot in my opinion. It's too bad you didn't get the case open, but I suspect there isn't enough room for the necessary capacitors. Nevertheless it does look usable and price will be the deciding factor. Unfortunately, circuit type (discharge vs resistive) is generally not mentioned.
This guy is cute keep saying about the comment on his previous video lol I was looking for a cheap spot welder for batteries. I just got this one. Thank you
I don't know how fast you go thru the battery but presumably since it's just 1 cell that 4.2v will drop and you probably need to up the gear some if you were doing a bigger pack as the voltage drops
Did you confirm that the strips supplied were really solid nickel? I have seen comments on some reviews that said some units are actually supplied with nickel plated steel strips because they have higher resistance make better welds but the steel strips will cause higher heat and are not good to use.
you can measure the resistance of the nickel strips if you have a power supply and a DMM. I measured the roll of nickel strips that I got at 3.9 milliohms per inch, for a comparison. Just apply a constant 1A with your power supply, connected to the roll with clips at a distance of just over 1 foot, and then mark off end points 12" apart somewhere inside the area where you clipped the power supply leads. Use a DMM and measure the millivolt reading at the 12" separated marks, and whatever your reading is, divide by 12 to get the milliohms per inch. Thicker and wider strips will have a lower reading.
Thanks so much for the upload and great info. Just got my very first kit in and its set up exactly as yours but it says upgraded 3Goa model, although the one on amazon says Riiai on it, made by Shenzhen Jueqi Tech. Same specs 7500mah 650A. Don't see where the upgrades are. Eventually want to build my own quad copter, Space 1999 Eagle or TOS Enterprise, but to get experience on the batteries I decided to upgrade my 14 year old Craftsman handisaw with a few LiPo. I was wondering, to get the higher amp pass thru, would it be better to tack the first two, bend the strip over, tack those two and then bend it over again.... so on and so on, and then cut the strip, so it'll be one solid instead of separate strips? Thanks again for getting me up to speed on my new mini-defibrillator ;-) Go gentle into that good tack weld night lol.
Its odd that the cheaper one I ordered said it only has 7 gears, the one I received has 8, but that one is 11,000mah hmmm. Oh and it has an auto shut off after 5 minutes.
I think most of these generic products are sourced at some big bazaar/clearinghouse with silkscreened labels of the drop shippers who post them in various Amazon stores. I see this over and over with generic products.
Hello. I have one just like this one, a year old. But on the third battery I was going to do, when turning on the device the display is off!!! Do you know which component I can buy, and where, to solve the problem? Thanks.
I was reading on some amazon reviews that if you don't use for a long time then the internal battery will self discharge to a point where it can no longer be charged again. You could open it up and check or replace the battery.
great video learned a lot. so I should double up on the strip to carry more amps? what's a good size to use max current pull around 30 amps to be safe but not consistent, 15amp continously.
There are charts like this one out there listing current carrying capacity of metal strips: www.diyelectriccar.com/attachments/strip-ampacity-pdf.120970/ When you put conduits in parallel they split the load.
I use Matador Ampacity. It gives you current capacity, the mm² area, gives you equivalent in AWG copper wire.' 5mm-10mm width, .10-.50mm thick. If you use a little spot welder, like I do, .15mm is maxed. But even .15×10mm is good for 6 amps, so you might, by stacking 12 amps. I'll solder solid copper wire you strip, then spot weld the strip. 2 side by side 18awg copper wire is good for 14A each. That handle 35 amps..
I just received a generic version of this welder. (Although the product description stated the brand as Seesii). The probe sockets are not central in the case holes and are shorting across the metal case. Also arrived with the battery at zero charge, and USB A port mounting points had come un-soldered due to the poor fit of the case. Be careful people!
Isn't the main voltage drop thru the small spot welds which are very small in cross section versus the strips themselves? i.e.is it really necessary to have multiple layers of strips? Wouldn't more spot welds do more to reduce resistance?
What is the principle of welding batteries? I understand the basics and that the welding spot should have the highest temperature for the shortest time. We have a spotter with a bunch of settings: first welding, second and third, where the second welding is the main welding and the third is hardening. There are also peripheral settings such as pause between pulses, current rise and fall times. So let's get down to business: the first and last welds should not have as high a current as the second. The first weld prepares the nickel strip for welding, the second welds it directly, and the third releases the strip. We have two main problems that I still can't figure out: 1. Why do the electrodes "stick" to the workpiece? According to my observations, this is due to the cross-sectional area of the electrode tip in contact with the nickel tape. On the one hand, a smaller contact area creates better welding, but the electrodes stick 👉👈 On the other hand, a larger area cooks worse. By increasing the current, the workpiece overheated too much and still nothing happened) 2. One electrode cooks and the other does not. In the case of DC welding, this is understandable. The "positive" electrode, where the current enters the battery substrate, welds better than the "negative" electrode, where the current leaves the battery. However, with AC welding, this is illogical for me, because the current flows back and forth across the workpiece. Maybe someone has a few gigabytes of information about welding batteries?) I want to absorb all the text from anyone that is related to welding batteries
It can be very important. If doing a power tool pack, you get a lot of packs hot rod cells. I use Samsung 25R a lot. Max constant discharge rate is 25 amps. It can flash 60 amps for 1/2 second. If you are laying down .15 pure nickel, .15mm×8mm wide is good for 5amps...I normally use .12mm nickel. I'll stack If you are using a hot rod cell, you'll at least stacking. If I need capacity, I solder 18 awg pure bare copper wire is is good for 15 amps. I've built with 2 wires soldered to the nickel. I try to solder the wire to nickel before spot welding. That gives you about 35 amps
I am on a lookout for a fine adjustable spot welder for doing sensitive electronics. The idea is to adjust for minimum exposure time / minimum amps so that the weld between the nickel strip and the 389 Renata button cell battery is just good enough to keep them together, without frying the electronics behind the nickel strip. Is there some spot welding guide that says exactly what settings would be safe for application like this?
No voltage will go to the electronics, electricity takes the path of the least resistance it goes out of one probe and then back through the other through the nickel strip. If you're really worried about it do a test on a nickel strip and hook up a voltmeter on opposite ends of the nickle strip and then do a test spot weld on the middle of the strip while watching you voltmeter, you should see see no electricity passing outward anywhere other then the weld itself, you could even do a strip to ground test while welding.
@@drewrinker2071 That's my understanding too. The problem is when I start using the device after a spot weld, it doesn't work as expected but only sends a flat signal (behaves dead) for which of course there is no reasonable explanation. I maybe had to explain it from the start - its about those G4/G5 Dexcom Transmitters, which when they deplete their factory button cell watch batteries (Renata 389) we try to replace them and secure the nickel strip contacts back. Anyways I have multiple used transmitters to play with and will give it a try.
@@svetlinvelikov1861 yeah that's really odd could it be maybe the shock wave it sends out?or maybe static. I would also attach some kind of static strap to the device, I know that some spot welders pens have that option built into it.
@@svetlinvelikov1861 something you could do it it is from the spot welder is attach a small piece of nickle strip to the cell, but where it goes directly into the device either solder the two pieces of nickle together or use a crimp connection, or give yourself a long enough piece of nickle strip attached to the battery with a wire soldered to it then lastly solder to the other wire or wherever it hooks directly to the device. And as for the static strap it was actually the Ryobi solder station I was thinking of that had that built in, I'm not quite sure how you would do that with a spot welder without shorting the contacts out
@@drewrinker2071 That would be the best way to do it, first solder a wire to a nickel tab, then spot weld the tab to the battery, and last solder the wires to the device. With hundreds of amps it can induce a transient voltage spike to the device which may be damaging, even though most of the current goes between the electrodes.
Good luck with yours. I have one I bought about a year ago, and I've used it once. I got it out a week ago and charged it, the screen shows fully charged and I can change settings but it won't weld. As far as I'm concerned this is a total waste of money.
any idea why it would stop welding properly I used 2 months ago and built a big battery and it worked well. today I charged it up fully and now I cant get a good weld even on its highest gear
I can do a full battery, 5s 2p and not use 1/4 ...I'll just plug it in while I'm doing different. Make sure the tips CLEAN...get rid ozone residue and impurities. Amazing what a difference that makes.
Thanks for posting this video! I really appreciate folks like you taking the time to make them. First time viewer but I shall like and subscribe just in case something else you post piques my interest. Question: I have the same one arriving in a few days. I'm curious if the nickel strip you were doing your tests with is the stuff that came with the welder and whether or not you know if it's pure nickel or nickel plated? I got another welder last year that worked great with it's included roll of nickel plated steel but it can't handle the .15 pure nickel that I have since tried. I'm wondering if this is going to be the same situation all over again!
I don't know if the material is plated or pure. What I do know is that I used half of the power output and as you saw on the video 4.4 was blowing holes through the material. There are still 4 major steps above where that happened. So....
I wonder how they came up with the translation of "gears" for the output levels. The "gear" just stands for the duration in milliseconds that the output pulse is delivered; the longer the duration, the higher the amount of energy in the pulse. The actual current doesn't change with the "gears" and is just dependent on the battery quality and all the connections out to the probe contacts. I have a $15 DIY unit from Temu and connected to a LiFe battery, it delivered about a 422 amp pulse, with 5ms sufficient to do the spot weld.
Nice👍 I'm wondering if this can be used on some cr2032 flat batteries or if if would be too much heat and destroy the batteries😕 If anyone has experimented with watch batteries, please let me know, Thanks👍👍
Hey amasing video, well i am thinking to get one for model making, looking to weld stainless steel wire 1mm thickness, important not to solder but to weld, can you help me and check if this tool can do that, and if its holding well. Please :)
i build custom battery packs for e-bikes, scooters, etc. i purchased this portable spot welder as a companion piece to my stationary Sunkko 788H spot welding machine for larger projects that might not fit under my stationary unit. great investment. /Bklyn👑
Maybe a silly question but anyone know if it’s safe & possible to spot weld things like coat hangar wire, chicken cage wire, etc.. Try searching Google, Bing, DD-Go etc etc I spent hours and couldn’t find a single example saying either way just countless ways how to spot weld DIY lithium battery packs ONLY. I mean it’s a spot welder so there’s gotta be other things that can build besides just battery packs?? Or no? I ask sincerely, obviously naïvely lol. Edit due to autocorrect not allowing the wird(s) spot weld
Hi John. A simple and maybe stupid question : is it worth assembling your own batteries ? Have you compared the weight, power, price of homemade batteries to fully assembled batteries ? Do they last longer ? Do the Lipo sticks have the same tendancy to inflate even when you treat them well ? In fact 4 questions instead of one. Regards. Thierry
For RC vehicles I generally feel that custom packs aren't worth it. For human-sized EVs and energy storage systems, you will save thousands by building your own packs.
I tend to lean towards it being worth it. I recently built a pair of 6S packs from P42A cells. The cells ended up costing around $6 each, and premade packs that do the same thing were going for $100. I probably saved myself $50-60 a pack by building them myself. That adds up quick!
@@jaysonrees738 If you ask me, the biggest advantage of building your own packs is the freedom to make them in whatever shape you need. Stuff like packs which are sizes for an oddly-shaped bike frame and whatnot can *significantly* increase the range you get out of a vehicle versus standard rectangular packs.
I just work with power tool battery packs, so I have a specific size limitation. The advantage of rebuilding vs buying new is that I can upgrade the pack for the customer. Most packs are 5S2P. The 3ah pack is really popular for Milwaukee tools. It will have Samsung 15M's in the pack. When I rebuild it, I'll suggest Samsung 25R. That'll give them a 5ah pack. The last bunch, I got the 25R's at $3.82 ea. I saved them $$, they got a better pack and I made a little...lol
Can you please confirm 2 things: 1. Can you spot weld two on each other connect them in parallel on the battery 2. Also do you need safety glasses for this, because I know with welding (causes eye damage if you look at the point)
You can weld one strip to another. Do them one at a time. It's never a wrong answer to use safety goggles. That said, I do not wear them for spot welding. I accept the risk.
Very nice video and a great help to make a decision. Do you have a picture of the inside of the device in the meantime? I would be very interested to know which batteries they have installed. Thanks again for a very factual, objective and informative video.
@@RCVideoReviews I have learned that you are right on both counts, 1) They are LiPo cells, and 2) it would be destructive to look further. You made the right choice to not go further. I have one on the way now. Thanks again for your post!
I always thought that spot welding was achieved by placing one probe on one strip and another on the other strip so that the current passes thru the strips to make the weld. This is how heavy duty spot welding in done on sheet metal. ????
That is how 2 sheets are spot welding together. This is called surface spot welding where the charge starts on one side, travels downs turns goes up to the 2nd probe...
Why risk damaging the probes by placing them so close to each other? I appreciate too *much* pressure is not good but surely you want to ensure as much as possible that there is no gap between the 'wire'/strip and battery terminal...?
Mine still works. I don't use it too often, but it does still work. LIPO tech can last at storage voltage for quite a long time. So after a session, don't recharge to full.
Hi, could you please do an experiment with this welder and try welding a tongue and spade wire connector together? I have a small approximately( 6”/3” /3.5”) 12v 7.5 ah battery that has a tongue on each +/- poles but I really need a good solid contact. Soldering is not up to the job as it comes loose after a while. I have tried gluing over the solder as well. I am going to try some stronger type of glue. But if you could try your welder and see if it will hold them together or weld the nickel plate to the spade and tongue then join the two together. I would really appreciate it you try it and let us know if the welder is good for that. Thanks in advance
Don't know where you got your numbers, but that's not even close!! If you had pure copper, 1.35mm Sq is good for 20.5 amps. Pure nickel is 24% as efficient as copper. A strip of pure nickel. 15×9mm is 5.5 amps. Heck, .4×9mm is only good for 13 amps. The closest he might get is .2×10mm and that is 9.9 amps...
Matador Ampacity chart shows 6 continuous amps. It's the same cross section of 16 gauge copper wire that is good for 21 amps, which makes sense as pure nickel only pulls 25% of copper
Maybe. Almost feels like a translation issue to me...like there's not a clean translation from Chinese setting to English setting. Same thing with "Players". I see "Players" in advertisements and even in the DJI Goggle menu system which is indirectly what I believe to be "flyers" or "pilots".
Jus got dis very bran out da malebox. I wurk at duh state fair and I'm gunna use dis tah repare the cracks in da sling-shot screme - machine ride dat I wurk on.
Please explain, seriously, why light touch is better. I know you (Original Poster) referred back to a previous video, and the fact that you caught heck for (what I'm assuming was) too heavy a touch. It seems that if you use too light of a touch, you run the risk of not making contact with the substrate material (endcap of cell), and then your strip bears the full brunt of the energy/heat. Thus blowing a hole in it, as you did on one of the 4.2V passes. I have a similar (sized) spot-welder, and it will weld two strips together just fine, but try welding that same strip to a battery and it just falls flat on its face. Not enough power.
I bought this from Amazon. Could not weld pure nickel strip @ .015mm thickness with any strength. Even at GEAR 8. Had to tear down a 8S4P Lifepo4 battery I built due to weak welds and current imbalances. Returned to Amazon. LiPo packs inside. Second elder I tried. Don't think the small units at around $100 are able to go much beyond .012 mm plated nickel strip.
Maybe u got a bad one. I have the 10,000 with 99 gears. NEVER used plated steel. That' stuff is junk. Pure .10mm nickel, easy. .12mm is pretty easy. I've done .15mm pure nickel. It'll do it, but is at gear 85-90. As a person practices and gets a better technique. Also keep the tips of the probes clean. That really hurts performance..
Since it doesn't rely on any specific type of charger (balance charger) it will have a BMS installed to keep cells balanced and the charge cutoff at the appropriate levels.
who told you to "barely touch" the stripe? You get better welds when you apply some good pressure, because otherwise you might have a little gap between the metal layers and then you get this hole punching welds as seen in your video ;)
This is not budget spot welding coz this is more price compare to purple spot welding only for $18US with 99 MS. however this spot welding can welding firmly.
When does ANYTHING come being 'user serviceable' anymore instead of just throwing this away when it needs new batteries? I was waiting for him to cut his fingers trying to peel the strips. These welders should also come with something to refinish your tabletop once youre finished burning holes all over it.
Don't know why people attacked you for using pressure as you do need to ensure that the strip is contacting the battery before the welding pulse occurs. Even automated spot welders use a specified degree of pressure between the materials. If you don't have good contact, you WILL blow holes through the strips, so perhaps you shouldn't listen to us youtube commenters ;). Ask a spot welding professional.
TBH I just do what works. If I use too little pressure and good contact isn't made, I increase the pressure. If the pressure is sufficient to eliminate the air gap but the weld isn't strong, I increase the power. In the end, I have batteries that I've been using for 3 years and they're doing juuuuuuust fine. You know what they say about opinions....
i have this one do not buy 0.15 it will not weld it 0.1 is the one you want it says 0.2 which is bigger thann 0.15 so that makes no sense... so 0.1 mm thick is the max it will do use gear 8 for all welds use 3 seconds trust me incase you go oh crap i need to reposition it gives you 3 seconds before it fires and use them flat not on a angle when you press down.. these are not that powerful also fully charge it the voltage sag can make it not weld good and really what is needed is capacitor in the thing where it charges it not just a battery a cap can discharge faster its not the most strong so dont expect perfect welds do 6 per cell or 3 times to ensure its on
@@robertporter1429 didnt your mother and father teach you manners>? insulting me like that for no reason at all grow up.. second im telling people about the product that to use gear 8 to weld those other gears are useless better to use full power than the lower ones also the battery will be dead within 6 months mine looses 1 bar every month it has a parasitic draw there really only used for 0.15 mm nickle strips anything more double them up and you cant weld better get the one that plugs into the wall this thing is cool it does work but barely..
why in tf would you take the thing apart but not show us ? one of the most important things about these cheap spot welders is the battery they use, and for some reason you decided not to show us.... maybe it was crappy and you didn't want to piss off your sponsor ??
The batteries were somehow sealed in and I felt the only way to take it apart would have likely resulted in a fire. Since you don’t know me or my channel I’ll let the sponsor comment slide. Usually, I’d kick your ass off my channel for a comment like that. Don’t judge me dude…you have no idea who I am or how I operate.
Nice review, but the USB Output is completely unnecessary and the 5V 2.1A USB-C Input is not well thought out. USB C can do more, so I don't understand why this Device wasn't equipped with a corresponding Input. I would have expected a top charging Circuit, especially at this Price. Because of the Display alone the Price is higher than an equivalent cheaper Device that performs the same Task. I'm currently looking for a new one and I would never buy this one for this Price. Thanks for the Video that made this clear to me.
I'm not him, but I use the 10,000 99 gear model of Seesii. I have done done 17 packs, three on bench to do. No issues, except you pop, pop ,pop. Just going from one battery with no break, I've had the welder unit get to 95* or so and the probes hot in my hands...
@@davidbarker3591 Thanks I just started to build battery packs for my use on my bikes and so far its working like it should . I bought one of these from this company and It works ok so far haven't really did a big battery pack yet but I plan on building one for one of my custom fatbikes BBSHD odd shape frame center
I just got this identical item (I think it comes from the same manufacturer but is cheaper and listed as a no label product) and I could not get it to work.
I have used a soldering iron forever so I took these nickel strips and pressed both electrodes and thppt! Nothing. Barely heated it up. After seeing your vid and a bit of thinking seems I can use one probe to hold the strip down on the battery and the other probe (where I want the weld) I only GENTLY touch. BOOM! That does the trick. After time the learning curve in this method starts to come more and more. A very useful tool for future projects! Thanks!
You did a great job of both demoing the product, and showing how to make low resistance, high reliability connections.
Thank you.
I just bought this on Amazon, im glad to see it working well. Thanks for the video
You're welcome.
Great review of a useful tool. Reasonably priced, very good value. Excellent explanation and demonstration of using the spot welder. 👏🤓
Thanks for watching John. :)
Thank you so much for posting this! I bought the same unit to make battery packs and this was *really* helpful. Thank you.
You're welcome! Glad to help.
Thank you for this detailed review. It helped a lot in picking the right tool. I found one that looks and operates exactly the same from a different brand. They upped the battery to 11,000 mAh, but otherwise I cannot see any difference. Works as advertised.
You're welcome. Glad to help.
Nice review and good information. Keep up the good work John.
Thanks Bill.
With all the portable stuff one could carry around from the portaable charging station, to a portable soldering pen, portable spot welder, etc, one will need a portable desk to hold it all.
Add wheels and there is no reason to ever go back home😂
I have one, it rides on a drone.
Thanks for the laugh! Cheers!
@@diyonthefly LOL. Right?
😂😂😂😂
Looks like a pretty solid spot welder . Great review John
Take Care
Seems effective to me. Thanks Robert :)
very helpful thank you for your time and making this video it was well made and I did enjoy it
Glad you enjoyed it!
I got the version with no display and have been strugeling with a poor welding untill I saw this video, telling me to push gently on the propes and voila :D Thanks :D
Glad I could help
Voila! :)
I have one like this and it works wonders. It's a different brand but looks quite similar except for the digital screen. Love the idea of that screen to make sure your settings are correct. Works great for making DIY lithium ion packs.
Agreed. I flew my T1 Ranger with the battery I made using this spot welder. It did great. Effective little tool.
How thick of nickel did you spot? .1, .12, or .15mm. Was it pure or plated steel. Plated steel is easier..
How well has it lasted? Some of the reviews say the batteries in the welder are spotty.
@@bradykirk9932 the one I purchased seems great, with that said I haven't used it in quite a while. If I can remember I'll try to use it soon and reply again. Mine is pushing 2.5 yrs now.
Edit : just grabbed it and yup the battery seems dead. I'm currently trying to charge it and I'll update later
@@HindsightFPV Much appreciated!
Great video. I've never messed with building battery packs before, but this looks like a great way to rebuild some of the dead Milwaukee packs I have laying around with quality cells.
Definitely. I've seen videos where they take existing packs apart and of multiple cells, only one is bad. By combining good cells, they recover packs worth decent money.
That's why I'm looking into this. Milwaukee batteries are so expensive anymore. I'm looking at getting batteries from liion wholesale. Apparently they're authorized distributor for several brands. Looking at the high drain batteries. I've seen some videos of people soldering the batteries but I'm pretty sure you can damage the cells really easily doing that.
I use this item all the time. Great lil welder!
Will this last long enough for starting a small business or would you recommend something more sturdy.
@@jrgmty7685 I'm going to open a small business, repairing and rebuilding power tools battery packs. Going to open with a newer unit than this one. I think this model was a 7500 mah unit. I'm going with the 10,000 or 11,000 model with a big color LCD
@@davidbarker3591 nice man. Good luck. Everything uses batteries these days. 👍
jrg mty...I have done 19 power packs and it's still welding fine. I will not use nickel plated steel. Now, with pure nickel it will take .10 easy, .15, it's wide open. I like the .12mm nickel strips
@@davidbarker3591 that's good thanks. Starting with industrial equipment is not always the best idea depending on the budget.
Informative and helpful.
Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for the review
Any time!
Hey thanks for the video. Really useful.. You opened it up and I'd like to know more about it as I bought one of these and it does not power on. Any tips or ideas?
awesome!
Yeah, it was pretty cool.
I'm not sure, but it doesn't seem to be a capacitive discharge spot welder - seems like a high power resistive welder. I saw this because the strips seem to have heat discoloration (blackness) and also the wood got too hot in my opinion. It's too bad you didn't get the case open, but I suspect there isn't enough room for the necessary capacitors. Nevertheless it does look usable and price will be the deciding factor. Unfortunately, circuit type (discharge vs resistive) is generally not mentioned.
This guy is cute keep saying about the comment on his previous video lol
I was looking for a cheap spot welder for batteries. I just got this one. Thank you
This guy got a lot of comments about pressing too hard. Didn't want to go through that again.
@@RCVideoReviews haha I like that. How js the welder working for you? Still good? Mine arriving tomorrow
I don't know how fast you go thru the battery but presumably since it's just 1 cell that 4.2v will drop and you probably need to up the gear some if you were doing a bigger pack as the voltage drops
I've got a Seesii 10,000 model. I can weld a complete 5s2p for power tools. After I etc done, just plug in..
Thank you
You're welcome
I have this exact model and I was about to throw it out the window. Just a defective operator it turns out. Thank you .
Is it when the internal battery dead, it can not be use anymore?
Will this be able to weld 2mm pure nickel for 18v batteries
Would these type of welders work for spot welding fragile pieces of jewellery that a torch may melt?
Thanks
Not really designed for it..
Did you confirm that the strips supplied were really solid nickel? I have seen comments on some reviews that said some units are actually supplied with nickel plated steel strips because they have higher resistance make better welds but the steel strips will cause higher heat and are not good to use.
Mine was nickel plated steel. It spotwelds .15mm nickel/steel easily. .15mm pure nickel
you can measure the resistance of the nickel strips if you have a power supply and a DMM. I measured the roll of nickel strips that I got at 3.9 milliohms per inch, for a comparison.
Just apply a constant 1A with your power supply, connected to the roll with clips at a distance of just over 1 foot, and then mark off end points 12" apart somewhere inside the area where you clipped the power supply leads.
Use a DMM and measure the millivolt reading at the 12" separated marks, and whatever your reading is, divide by 12 to get the milliohms per inch. Thicker and wider strips will have a lower reading.
Can I spot weld 18650 at full charge capacity voltage
Thanks so much for the upload and great info. Just got my very first kit in and its set up exactly as yours but it says upgraded 3Goa model, although the one on amazon says Riiai on it, made by Shenzhen Jueqi Tech. Same specs 7500mah 650A. Don't see where the upgrades are. Eventually want to build my own quad copter, Space 1999 Eagle or TOS Enterprise, but to get experience on the batteries I decided to upgrade my 14 year old Craftsman handisaw with a few LiPo. I was wondering, to get the higher amp pass thru, would it be better to tack the first two, bend the strip over, tack those two and then bend it over again.... so on and so on, and then cut the strip, so it'll be one solid instead of separate strips? Thanks again for getting me up to speed on my new mini-defibrillator ;-) Go gentle into that good tack weld night lol.
Its odd that the cheaper one I ordered said it only has 7 gears, the one I received has 8, but that one is 11,000mah hmmm. Oh and it has an auto shut off after 5 minutes.
I've never seen anyone do it the way. In the long run you'll use more strip though..
I have exactly the same one but from Kerpu, it performs the same.
I think most of these generic products are sourced at some big bazaar/clearinghouse with silkscreened labels of the drop shippers who post them in various Amazon stores. I see this over and over with generic products.
Looks like they came out with an upgraded version with a battery UI
Nice.
Hello. I have one just like this one, a year old. But on the third battery I was going to do, when turning on the device the display is off!!! Do you know which component I can buy, and where, to solve the problem?
Thanks.
I was reading on some amazon reviews that if you don't use for a long time then the internal battery will self discharge to a point where it can no longer be charged again.
You could open it up and check or replace the battery.
Anyone know the "wake up instructions" mentioned in the manual when this thing has been in storage too long?
did you figure it out?
great video learned a lot. so I should double up on the strip to carry more amps? what's a good size to use max current pull around 30 amps to be safe but not consistent, 15amp continously.
There are charts like this one out there listing current carrying capacity of metal strips: www.diyelectriccar.com/attachments/strip-ampacity-pdf.120970/
When you put conduits in parallel they split the load.
@@RCVideoReviews great thanks 😊
I use Matador Ampacity. It gives you current capacity, the mm² area, gives you equivalent in AWG copper wire.' 5mm-10mm width, .10-.50mm thick. If you use a little spot welder, like I do, .15mm is maxed. But even .15×10mm is good for 6 amps, so you might, by stacking 12 amps. I'll solder solid copper wire you strip, then spot weld the strip. 2 side by side 18awg copper wire is good for 14A each. That handle 35 amps..
Does anyone know if you can use these on thicker 0.5mm or 0.02 inch brass sheets?
Forget about it. Already it struggles with 0.2mm . 0.15mm is fine
I just received a generic version of this welder. (Although the product description stated the brand as Seesii). The probe sockets are not central in the case holes and are shorting across the metal case. Also arrived with the battery at zero charge, and USB A port mounting points had come un-soldered due to the poor fit of the case. Be careful people!
They have to ship it almost fully discharged...
does it work with chrome coated stainless steel
?
Isn't the main voltage drop thru the small spot welds which are very small in cross section versus the strips themselves? i.e.is it really necessary to have multiple layers of strips? Wouldn't more spot welds do more to reduce resistance?
I've been thinking this too
The charts that I've seen just put out how many amps that the strip can handle. Nothing is mentioned about welds, solder, etc.
I use a Matador Ampercity chart. Holes done help. Spot welds do next to nothing
What is the principle of welding batteries? I understand the basics and that the welding spot should have the highest temperature for the shortest time. We have a spotter with a bunch of settings: first welding, second and third, where the second welding is the main welding and the third is hardening. There are also peripheral settings such as pause between pulses, current rise and fall times.
So let's get down to business: the first and last welds should not have as high a current as the second. The first weld prepares the nickel strip for welding, the second welds it directly, and the third releases the strip.
We have two main problems that I still can't figure out:
1. Why do the electrodes "stick" to the workpiece? According to my observations, this is due to the cross-sectional area of the electrode tip in contact with the nickel tape. On the one hand, a smaller contact area creates better welding, but the electrodes stick 👉👈 On the other hand, a larger area cooks worse. By increasing the current, the workpiece overheated too much and still nothing happened)
2. One electrode cooks and the other does not. In the case of DC welding, this is understandable. The "positive" electrode, where the current enters the battery substrate, welds better than the "negative" electrode, where the current leaves the battery. However, with AC welding, this is illogical for me, because the current flows back and forth across the workpiece.
Maybe someone has a few gigabytes of information about welding batteries?) I want to absorb all the text from anyone that is related to welding batteries
I need to know if one of these welders will do tin for building models.
You had it open...some internal shots would have been nice to see.
If there was something to show I would have shown it. I couldn’t take it apart without risk of damage. So I’m not a fan of that aspect.
Will this do .1 silver?
I want to weld steal or copper 1mm thick. Is this good for that? I dont know anythung about welding. Juat want to build a 1/10 scale bumper
Seriously doubt it.
When doing multiple strips would you consider welding between terminals?
I don’t think it’s necessary.
It can be very important. If doing a power tool pack, you get a lot of packs hot rod cells. I use Samsung 25R a lot. Max constant discharge rate is 25 amps. It can flash 60 amps for 1/2 second. If you are laying down .15 pure nickel, .15mm×8mm wide is good for 5amps...I normally use .12mm nickel. I'll stack If you are using a hot rod cell, you'll at least stacking. If I need capacity, I solder 18 awg pure bare copper wire is is good for 15 amps. I've built with 2 wires soldered to the nickel. I try to solder the wire to nickel before spot welding. That gives you about 35 amps
I am on a lookout for a fine adjustable spot welder for doing sensitive electronics. The idea is to adjust for minimum exposure time / minimum amps so that the weld between the nickel strip and the 389 Renata button cell battery is just good enough to keep them together, without frying the electronics behind the nickel strip. Is there some spot welding guide that says exactly what settings would be safe for application like this?
No voltage will go to the electronics, electricity takes the path of the least resistance it goes out of one probe and then back through the other through the nickel strip. If you're really worried about it do a test on a nickel strip and hook up a voltmeter on opposite ends of the nickle strip and then do a test spot weld on the middle of the strip while watching you voltmeter, you should see see no electricity passing outward anywhere other then the weld itself, you could even do a strip to ground test while welding.
@@drewrinker2071 That's my understanding too. The problem is when I start using the device after a spot weld, it doesn't work as expected but only sends a flat signal (behaves dead) for which of course there is no reasonable explanation. I maybe had to explain it from the start - its about those G4/G5 Dexcom Transmitters, which when they deplete their factory button cell watch batteries (Renata 389) we try to replace them and secure the nickel strip contacts back. Anyways I have multiple used transmitters to play with and will give it a try.
@@svetlinvelikov1861 yeah that's really odd could it be maybe the shock wave it sends out?or maybe static. I would also attach some kind of static strap to the device, I know that some spot welders pens have that option built into it.
@@svetlinvelikov1861 something you could do it it is from the spot welder is attach a small piece of nickle strip to the cell, but where it goes directly into the device either solder the two pieces of nickle together or use a crimp connection, or give yourself a long enough piece of nickle strip attached to the battery with a wire soldered to it then lastly solder to the other wire or wherever it hooks directly to the device. And as for the static strap it was actually the Ryobi solder station I was thinking of that had that built in, I'm not quite sure how you would do that with a spot welder without shorting the contacts out
@@drewrinker2071 That would be the best way to do it, first solder a wire to a nickel tab, then spot weld the tab to the battery, and last solder the wires to the device. With hundreds of amps it can induce a transient voltage spike to the device which may be damaging, even though most of the current goes between the electrodes.
Thank you for this video, do you recommend this spot welder??
Can you spot weld aluminum to aluminum?
How do you hook the leads and 🔌.
Simple male/female plug for leads. No power, just USB charging.
Good luck with yours. I have one I bought about a year ago, and I've used it once. I got it out a week ago and charged it, the screen shows fully charged and I can change settings but it won't weld. As far as I'm concerned this is a total waste of money.
any idea why it would stop welding properly I used 2 months ago and built a big battery and it worked well. today I charged it up fully and now I cant get a good weld even on its highest gear
Sounds like a dead/flat battery...?
@@RCVideoReviews it charges to 100% and if it died after like 100 spot welds that is pretty sad
I can do a full battery, 5s 2p and not use 1/4 ...I'll just plug it in while I'm doing different. Make sure the tips CLEAN...get rid ozone residue and impurities. Amazing what a difference that makes.
Thanks for posting this video! I really appreciate folks like you taking the time to make them. First time viewer but I shall like and subscribe just in case something else you post piques my interest. Question: I have the same one arriving in a few days. I'm curious if the nickel strip you were doing your tests with is the stuff that came with the welder and whether or not you know if it's pure nickel or nickel plated? I got another welder last year that worked great with it's included roll of nickel plated steel but it can't handle the .15 pure nickel that I have since tried. I'm wondering if this is going to be the same situation all over again!
Wow I feel like a jerk now that I see you have an affiliate link for it. Sorry I already ordered it this morning. I got you next time! 😋
I don't know if the material is plated or pure. What I do know is that I used half of the power output and as you saw on the video 4.4 was blowing holes through the material. There are still 4 major steps above where that happened. So....
பிரைஸ் லிஸ்ட்
Yes you will. I use .12mm pure nickel, the .15mm pure nickel is hard
I hope u test yours before using it. 2 tests tell you. I use a dremel with a cutoff
Q
I wonder how they came up with the translation of "gears" for the output levels. The "gear" just stands for the duration in milliseconds that the output pulse is delivered; the longer the duration, the higher the amount of energy in the pulse. The actual current doesn't change with the "gears" and is just dependent on the battery quality and all the connections out to the probe contacts.
I have a $15 DIY unit from Temu and connected to a LiFe battery, it delivered about a 422 amp pulse, with 5ms sufficient to do the spot weld.
I think the rough translation is levels or power.
@@RCVideoReviews yes, but it's an odd translation, by whoever came up with it- assume it was from a non English speaker.
I've seen this same error repeated on multiple occassions.
Could it be that an image of gears has become the 'settings' icon for electronic devices? Maybe it should be labeled Setting rather than Gear ⚙️
@@sonclearbrahman-ar1461 now it makes sense how they came up with that nonsensical translation🙂
Mine says low battery and shuts off any fixes bms reset ???
Unfortunately, not having encountered that issue I don't know.
Nice👍 I'm wondering if this can be used on some cr2032 flat batteries or if if would be too much heat and destroy the batteries😕 If anyone has experimented with watch batteries, please let me know, Thanks👍👍
should be ok since you can change the power level to suit your needs
I'd practice on a dead one to get your power level correct.
Hey amasing video, well i am thinking to get one for model making, looking to weld stainless steel wire 1mm thickness, important not to solder but to weld, can you help me and check if this tool can do that, and if its holding well.
Please :)
This isn't the right tool for that. The strips are very thin.
We spot .1mm....you're talking about 1mm....that's 10 times thicker...
i build custom battery packs for e-bikes, scooters, etc.
i purchased this portable spot welder as a companion piece to my stationary Sunkko 788H spot welding machine for larger projects that might not fit under my stationary unit. great investment.
/Bklyn👑
Maybe a silly question but anyone know if it’s safe & possible to spot weld things like coat hangar wire, chicken cage wire, etc..
Try searching Google, Bing, DD-Go etc etc I spent hours and couldn’t find a single example saying either way just countless ways how to spot weld DIY lithium battery packs ONLY.
I mean it’s a spot welder so there’s gotta be other things that can build besides just battery packs?? Or no? I ask sincerely, obviously naïvely lol.
Edit due to autocorrect not allowing the wird(s) spot weld
Hi John. A simple and maybe stupid question : is it worth assembling your own batteries ? Have you compared the weight, power, price of homemade batteries to fully assembled batteries ? Do they last longer ? Do the Lipo sticks have the same tendancy to inflate even when you treat them well ? In fact 4 questions instead of one.
Regards. Thierry
All good questions. Custom packs are individual use case basis.
For RC vehicles I generally feel that custom packs aren't worth it.
For human-sized EVs and energy storage systems, you will save thousands by building your own packs.
I tend to lean towards it being worth it. I recently built a pair of 6S packs from P42A cells. The cells ended up costing around $6 each, and premade packs that do the same thing were going for $100. I probably saved myself $50-60 a pack by building them myself. That adds up quick!
@@jaysonrees738 If you ask me, the biggest advantage of building your own packs is the freedom to make them in whatever shape you need. Stuff like packs which are sizes for an oddly-shaped bike frame and whatnot can *significantly* increase the range you get out of a vehicle versus standard rectangular packs.
I just work with power tool battery packs, so I have a specific size limitation. The advantage of rebuilding vs buying new is that I can upgrade the pack for the customer. Most packs are 5S2P. The 3ah pack is really popular for Milwaukee tools. It will have Samsung 15M's in the pack. When I rebuild it, I'll suggest Samsung 25R. That'll give them a 5ah pack. The last bunch, I got the 25R's at $3.82 ea. I saved them $$, they got a better pack and I made a little...lol
Can you please confirm 2 things:
1. Can you spot weld two on each other connect them in parallel on the battery
2. Also do you need safety glasses for this, because I know with welding (causes eye damage if you look at the point)
You can weld one strip to another. Do them one at a time.
It's never a wrong answer to use safety goggles. That said, I do not wear them for spot welding. I accept the risk.
@@RCVideoReviews Thank you so much, would you tell me what glasses would be good for this from Amazon?
I always spot the first layer to cell. Then lay down the 2nd and spot to first layer
There is nothing catastrophically dangerous about a spot welder. Kids stuck their hands in full size ones virtually every single day in metal shop.
I used the same welder for Makita battery 🔋 to be welding. 0.15mm Pure Nickle strips was used but the welding has weak... 0.2mm would not do it.
Your technique will get better. Make sure tips are clean. I do
.15mm pure nickel decent. Never had problems the Seesii will not do .20mm thick
can this weld .3 mm strips? I want to rebuild an m18 battery.
I don't know...
no, just get some copper strips and double stack
Very nice video and a great help to make a decision.
Do you have a picture of the inside of the device in the meantime? I would be very interested to know which batteries they have installed.
Thanks again for a very factual, objective and informative video.
I tried taking it apart and to get a look at the cells would be destructive. I think they’re some sort or lipo.
@@RCVideoReviews I have learned that you are right on both counts, 1) They are LiPo cells, and 2) it would be destructive to look further. You made the right choice to not go further. I have one on the way now. Thanks again for your post!
I always thought that spot welding was achieved by placing one probe on one strip and another on the other strip so that the current passes thru the strips to make the weld. This is how heavy duty spot welding in done on sheet metal. ????
That is how 2 sheets are spot welding together. This is called surface spot welding where the charge starts on one side, travels downs turns goes up to the 2nd probe...
4:10 that's how you stick yourself with a knife. how do I know? Still healing a really good one. :(
Why risk damaging the probes by placing them so close to each other?
I appreciate too *much* pressure is not good but surely you want to ensure as much as possible that there is no gap between the 'wire'/strip and battery terminal...?
If you spread them too far apart, by the time the current goes back up the the 2nd lead, it's weak...look at the machined spot welds. 1/8" apart.
are this unit you have still working?, I rarely packing 18650, so are the battery inside this welder still good if not used for a long time?.
Mine still works. I don't use it too often, but it does still work. LIPO tech can last at storage voltage for quite a long time. So after a session, don't recharge to full.
@@RCVideoReviews I see, thanks❤
4200 is crazy btw mine only have 2000
Hi, could you please do an experiment with this welder and try welding a tongue and spade wire connector together? I have a small approximately( 6”/3” /3.5”) 12v 7.5 ah battery that has a tongue on each +/- poles but I really need a good solid contact. Soldering is not up to the job as it comes loose after a while. I have tried gluing over the solder as well. I am going to try some stronger type of glue. But if you could try your welder and see if it will hold them together or weld the nickel plate to the spade and tongue then join the two together. I would really appreciate it you try it and let us know if the welder is good for that. Thanks in advance
hey, did you get feedback?
compared to the brand (DX10) which one is more recommended
They look similar. As I haven't used the DX10, I can't offer an objective POV.
@@RCVideoReviews In terms of price, it looks like the DX10 is superior. and in terms of battery dx10 is bigger.
Sounds like a good option.
9mm x .15mm gives about 1.35mm2 which should be good for about 17A *continuous*.
Don't know where you got your numbers, but that's not even close!! If you had pure copper, 1.35mm Sq is good for 20.5 amps. Pure nickel is 24% as efficient as copper. A strip of pure nickel. 15×9mm is 5.5 amps. Heck, .4×9mm is only good for 13 amps. The closest he might get is .2×10mm and that is 9.9 amps...
Matador Ampacity chart shows 6 continuous amps. It's the same cross section of 16 gauge copper wire that is good for 21 amps, which makes sense as pure nickel only pulls 25% of copper
Unfortunately after having mine for around a year of light use, the battery is already shot. $80 down the drain
I got one just like it. It does what it says (.2mm thick nickel IDK about) and nothing more. Not adjustments for zap time, all auto same zap time.
Will not do .2mm thick nickel.
I wonder if it says gear because a "gear" is a symbol for "settings."
Maybe. Almost feels like a translation issue to me...like there's not a clean translation from Chinese setting to English setting. Same thing with "Players". I see "Players" in advertisements and even in the DJI Goggle menu system which is indirectly what I believe to be "flyers" or "pilots".
Jus got dis very bran out da malebox. I wurk at duh state fair and I'm gunna use dis tah repare the cracks in da sling-shot screme - machine ride dat I wurk on.
Try to welding 0.3mm nickel coz I have a cheap spot welder can firmly welding 0.3mm nickel strip
Which one are you using?
I'd have to see it before I believed it. You probably
have nickel plated steel
Can this weld aluminum cans??
I haven't tried so I can't give you an objective answer. My guess would be no.
Absolutely no. Aluminum is hard spot weld..
How well has it lasted?
It still works, but admittedly, I do not use it very often. I'm probably not the best source of information for longevity on this particular device.
@@RCVideoReviewswhat do you use to spot weld on a regular basis?
Great. Barely touching makes lot of sense. I started with press firmly, surely it doesn’t generate much heat to melt the nickel
Please explain, seriously, why light touch is better. I know you (Original Poster) referred back to a previous video, and the fact that you caught heck for (what I'm assuming was) too heavy a touch.
It seems that if you use too light of a touch, you run the risk of not making contact with the substrate material (endcap of cell), and then your strip bears the full brunt of the energy/heat. Thus blowing a hole in it, as you did on one of the 4.2V passes.
I have a similar (sized) spot-welder, and it will weld two strips together just fine, but try welding that same strip to a battery and it just falls flat on its face. Not enough power.
barely touching is bs... use some good pressure! otherwise you get holes and bad connections
You spot the bottom layer..then you add the 3nd strip and spot to the bottom strip..
I just use a nice pressure on the probes. Pressing hard is junk, but you don't want have air between anything
Hi, are you still happy with this welder?
Yeah. I don't use it very often, but it always works.
Can this be used for permanent jewelry
I bought this from Amazon. Could not weld pure nickel strip @ .015mm thickness with any strength. Even at GEAR 8. Had to tear down a 8S4P Lifepo4 battery I built due to weak welds and current imbalances. Returned to Amazon. LiPo packs inside. Second elder I tried. Don't think the small units at around $100 are able to go much beyond .012 mm plated nickel strip.
Maybe u got a bad one. I have the 10,000 with 99 gears. NEVER used plated steel. That' stuff is junk. Pure .10mm nickel, easy. .12mm is pretty easy. I've done .15mm pure nickel. It'll do it, but is at gear
85-90. As a person practices and gets a better technique. Also keep the tips of the probes clean. That really hurts performance..
How dangerous is charging this unit if it has LIPO battery ?
Since it doesn't rely on any specific type of charger (balance charger) it will have a BMS installed to keep cells balanced and the charge cutoff at the appropriate levels.
who told you to "barely touch" the stripe? You get better welds when you apply some good pressure, because otherwise you might have a little gap between the metal layers and then you get this hole punching welds as seen in your video ;)
Pretty much everybody in this video: ruclips.net/video/u5khY6d3qds/видео.html
GENTAL!!!! I SAID GENTAL!!! hahaha, youtube quarterbacks
ikr
This is not budget spot welding coz this is more price compare to purple spot welding only for $18US with 99 MS. however this spot welding can welding firmly.
It is budget spot welding compared to a very nice $4,000 machine...
4:09 - Not for nothing, but you came within literally 1/8" of inserting that X-Acto knife tip into your finger.
Wouldn't be the first time and I'm sure it won't be the last ;)
When does ANYTHING come being 'user serviceable' anymore instead of just throwing this away when it needs new batteries? I was waiting for him to cut his fingers trying to peel the strips. These welders should also come with something to refinish your tabletop once youre finished burning holes all over it.
☃️ Hello 👋.
Hello 👋
Don't know why people attacked you for using pressure as you do need to ensure that the strip is contacting the battery before the welding pulse occurs. Even automated spot welders use a specified degree of pressure between the materials.
If you don't have good contact, you WILL blow holes through the strips, so perhaps you shouldn't listen to us youtube commenters ;). Ask a spot welding professional.
TBH I just do what works. If I use too little pressure and good contact isn't made, I increase the pressure. If the pressure is sufficient to eliminate the air gap but the weld isn't strong, I increase the power. In the end, I have batteries that I've been using for 3 years and they're doing juuuuuuust fine. You know what they say about opinions....
i have this one do not buy 0.15 it will not weld it 0.1 is the one you want it says 0.2 which is bigger thann 0.15 so that makes no sense... so 0.1 mm thick is the max it will do use gear 8 for all welds use 3 seconds trust me incase you go oh crap i need to reposition it gives you 3 seconds before it fires and use them flat not on a angle when you press down.. these are not that powerful also fully charge it the voltage sag can make it not weld good and really what is needed is capacitor in the thing where it charges it not just a battery a cap can discharge faster its not the most strong so dont expect perfect welds do 6 per cell or 3 times to ensure its on
I have this one and weld 1.5 mm on power level 2 ...so
Jerry....I have no idea what all you are saying above...fwiw (it's your writing & sentence structure - IE "lack there-of")
@@robertporter1429 didnt your mother and father teach you manners>? insulting me like that for no reason at all grow up.. second im telling people about the product that to use gear 8 to weld those other gears are useless better to use full power than the lower ones also the battery will be dead within 6 months mine looses 1 bar every month it has a parasitic draw there really only used for 0.15 mm nickle strips anything more double them up and you cant weld better get the one that plugs into the wall this thing is cool it does work but barely..
It will also weld .12mm no problem. You can get it pretty much everywhere. I've always had much better luck with probes at about a 45* angle...
I've done .15mm pure nickel, and it was almost maxed out. I normally use .12mm thick..made sure probe tips are CLEAN
These don't last buy a pit bike solanoid and a 12v battery and a push switch way better
why in tf would you take the thing apart but not show us ? one of the most important things about these cheap spot welders is the battery they use, and for some reason you decided not to show us.... maybe it was crappy and you didn't want to piss off your sponsor ??
The batteries were somehow sealed in and I felt the only way to take it apart would have likely resulted in a fire. Since you don’t know me or my channel I’ll let the sponsor comment slide. Usually, I’d kick your ass off my channel for a comment like that. Don’t judge me dude…you have no idea who I am or how I operate.
Nice review, but the USB Output is completely unnecessary and the 5V 2.1A USB-C Input is not well thought out. USB C can do more, so I don't understand why this Device wasn't equipped with a corresponding Input. I would have expected a top charging Circuit, especially at this Price. Because of the Display alone the Price is higher than an equivalent cheaper Device that performs the same Task. I'm currently looking for a new one and I would never buy this one for this Price. Thanks for the Video that made this clear to me.
So how is the Welder holding up to the USE your giving it .
I would like to know weather to buy one of this brand.
I'm not him, but I use the 10,000 99 gear model of Seesii. I have done done 17 packs, three on bench to do. No issues, except you pop, pop ,pop. Just going from one battery with no break, I've had the welder unit get to 95* or so and the probes hot in my hands...
@@davidbarker3591 Thanks I just started to build battery packs for my use on my bikes and so far its working like it should . I bought one of these from this company and It works ok so far haven't really did a big battery pack yet but I plan on building one for one of my custom fatbikes BBSHD odd shape frame center