im confused...you set it up, however you didnt show how to put the letters on two lines...how did you space it, and insure proper spacing etc? I know you have to push the product, but people looking to use the product can get this info in the user guide.
I wish I was getting paid to push the product, I received the jig as partial payment for doing the voice-over work on their product videos. Believe it or not at the time I had received a few emails asking about setting up the jig and how it works. Sure I could've gone into greater detail about parallel lines, etc. But that's not what I was being asked to demonstrate by the audience...at the time of the recording. It's a good point though!
I want to make a sign but it's going to be a long one for my place of work. Likely 6-8 feet long. Since I am looking for a system (I've used routers for years) I am assuming that I will just move the set up down the board. I'll likely be doing a top and bottom lettering of the sign similar to your welcome friends.
Excellent demonstration (better than the manufacturers), with a lot of details a first time user would need, . Thanks (Just got mine this evening, and didn't understand some of the instructions, or instructions were lacking...)
I have one of these and I am NOT impressed with it. The frame is flimsy, especially when using the extension bars. The letter make it too easy to make mistakes with certain letters, such as R, N, etc. Seems like it should be easy to use, but when the frame flexes and the sign is ruined, I want to scream!
@@29ginad Is it possible that you use yo much force, or maybe your router bits are not sharp enough or the speed of you router isn't high enough? Here at my workplace it works very well.
here it works just fine. I think you guys use the wrong router or bits. It really works smootly and the frame it steadt when I used the clamps. Can I help?
@Lou Flores I have this same unit but from Craftsman. The end parts are slightly different but its the same unit. What I did for signs that were going to be painted I just ripped some scraps of 1/2 ply and used my pin nailer to hold it way more solid. When you don't want to see the nail holes I set up a scrap piece of ply larger than the finished sign and used longer pieces screwed to the scrap ply to hold the template in place. The bars that hold the letters are WAY TOO THIN and should be made from a stiffer material for this to be a much better jig.
I had similar issues when using this system too. The only fix I came up with, and I shouldn't have to do this was to add a clamp in the middle to hold the frame snug against the letters. They include a little "clamp" that slides over the frames to help keep it from flexing, but mine seemed a little too loose and didn't do a good job. So adding the additional clamp helped. But when it comes to routing those letters you mentioned...that's another story.
In that situation the only suggestion I have is either a sharp chisel or a gouge. I'd recommend trying a different router bit profile, but that just opens the possibility for a different issue.
Very good explanation. Thanks. I think I’ll try one of these kits.
God bless you
For sharing your knowledge
Unfortunately none that I'm aware of. I've asked before, but there's nothing that I could find. Thanks for watching!
Very informative, thank you
How many letters does each size come with? Like I want to make a word: OFF. Is there 2 FF's? Thanks
im confused...you set it up, however you didnt show how to put the letters on two lines...how did you space it, and insure proper spacing etc? I know you have to push the product, but people looking to use the product can get this info in the user guide.
I wish I was getting paid to push the product, I received the jig as partial payment for doing the voice-over work on their product videos. Believe it or not at the time I had received a few emails asking about setting up the jig and how it works.
Sure I could've gone into greater detail about parallel lines, etc. But that's not what I was being asked to demonstrate by the audience...at the time of the recording. It's a good point though!
I want to make a sign but it's going to be a long one for my place of work. Likely 6-8 feet long. Since I am looking for a system (I've used routers for years) I am assuming that I will just move the set up down the board. I'll likely be doing a top and bottom lettering of the sign similar to your welcome friends.
What about the points that where left in the W where the bit leaves a bit inside the letters? How do I get rid of those?
Excellent demonstration (better than the manufacturers), with a lot of details a first time user would need, . Thanks (Just got mine this evening, and didn't understand some of the instructions, or instructions were lacking...)
What type of router bit do you use for the sign making kit? I'm pretty new to this
It comes with the bits in the kit
HI
I am look for lettering that is .5''-1.'' is there any thing out there that small
I like your show thank for that
shame these sets cost so much :(
onde com praressaferramenta
To much unnecessary talk about the setup
I have one of these and I am NOT impressed with it. The frame is flimsy, especially when using the extension bars. The letter make it too easy to make mistakes with certain letters, such as R, N, etc. Seems like it should be easy to use, but when the frame flexes and the sign is ruined, I want to scream!
.
Mate, you and me both!
@@29ginad Is it possible that you use yo much force, or maybe your router bits are not sharp enough or the speed of you router isn't high enough? Here at my workplace it works very well.
here it works just fine. I think you guys use the wrong router or bits. It really works smootly and the frame it steadt when I used the clamps. Can I help?
@Lou Flores I have this same unit but from Craftsman. The end parts are slightly different but its the same unit. What I did for signs that were going to be painted I just ripped some scraps of 1/2 ply and used my pin nailer to hold it way more solid. When you don't want to see the nail holes I set up a scrap piece of ply larger than the finished sign and used longer pieces screwed to the scrap ply to hold the template in place. The bars that hold the letters are WAY TOO THIN and should be made from a stiffer material for this to be a much better jig.
Pat M q
what depth was router bit?
I had similar issues when using this system too. The only fix I came up with, and I shouldn't have to do this was to add a clamp in the middle to hold the frame snug against the letters. They include a little "clamp" that slides over the frames to help keep it from flexing, but mine seemed a little too loose and didn't do a good job. So adding the additional clamp helped. But when it comes to routing those letters you mentioned...that's another story.
In that situation the only suggestion I have is either a sharp chisel or a gouge. I'd recommend trying a different router bit profile, but that just opens the possibility for a different issue.
Hi can you use a Marita rt0700c router with this system
A great review, thanks very helpful.
rea;lly really like your Vlog,,,,, followig on from your video I have just ordered the same as you have,,,,, thanks for rhe demo
I have one, and not very good it flexes to much not really worth the money, also very limited to what you can do with it.
Vanderlist... Sounds like Dutch roots
A
I would put blue tape over the spacer letter. I know myself tool well and I would end up with an upside down T in the middle of my sign... doh!