Just bought an '85 H16 about a month ago. I've spent more on repairs/upgrades than I did for the boat. I have $2,.500.00 in it so far. Solid boat and everything is new, not to bad in my opinion. I would of payed more for one in the same condition, this way I have the parts I wanted and i have learned every aspect of the boat
Hello Nice video ! A good way to check an older boat is to lift with the hand one hull from the bow, and look at the other hull how it moves. If both hulls move nearly solid the boat is perfect to race! Best regards
But make sure to check the trampoline tension before. If it is slack, then there is no way it would pass the test. I have seen this hull motion happen on waves on my old h16, checked the pylons, but there was nothing there. I must have been lazy with the tramp. Once tightened, there was nothing moving.
My last Hobie 16 was around 1973. Back then anyway there was always a concern about the hook assembly on the base of the mast breaking. Without it, it was almost impossible to raise the mast. Don't imagine the cost being high, but then I never thought or even knew about things like expensive rudder blades. The stock ones always went in the direction I wanted to go.
Yes of course, the fundamentals are the most important, sometimes it's too easy to loose sight of what's most important whilst being dazzled by fancy rudder blades!
I used to have a Hobie 16. It’s stood the test of a ‘long’ time whilst others have come and gone - a lot of fun. Competed quite a bit incl South Shields, Scotland and Cornwall. (Simon Morgan was a rival). I liked your demo of how many ways to capsize a 16. Done them all! The tip I got when I bought mine was if you see the leeward bow starting to go down, just push the tiller a smidgen (but quickly) and the bow will pop up and save a pitchpole.
I rally want to buy a used 16 but my problem is how to store it. I live near ocean, but when not using it, I would need to store it somewhere and be able to launch easily. It is not cheap where I live, so keeping a boat could get expensive.
Excellent vid Joe! Have my eye on a Hobie 16 - but it has sat out in the elements for the past 10-15 years - many soft spots in the decking and hull are scaring me from picking up the boat despite the fact the boat is FREE - need to research how to completely refurbish the innards of the hulls.... I may be taking on way too much.
It depends on how comfortable / experienced you are working with fibreglass. Otherwise you could get a rough quote from a boat builder. If the rest of the boat is seaworthy it must be worth going for (if you have somewhere to put it)
Growing up on these,I always wondered if you an rig the Hobies with regular line. Have you tried to rig the whole Hobie with Dyneema? I always wished those steel cables were regular line to take the injury factor away.. Great book is The Complete Riggers Apprentice. I live in Dunedin,Florida. Been sailing Hobies since the 70’s and looking for another to start sailing again. Too shallow for the foil racers. Thanks for the info Sir!! Just subscribed to your channel.
Welcome to the global Joyrider TV community! There are a lot of 16 sailors around in your area who hang out here! I'll be live later today with fitting the 16 trampoline (part 2 of a 5 part series) With regards to the dyneema rigging. I think you're going to get an injury what ever rigging you have on the boat. The 16s from Europe use plastic coated wire for the shrouds which I think gives the best protection. There's a guy in Texas who uses all Dyneema rigging on his Prindle 19 set up by www.colligomarine.com
Thanks for the video. When dragging my Hobie 16 out of the water and on to the beach, can I attached a strap to the dolphin striker then pull? (Don't want to damage the boat.)
Really useful info here Joe. I am glad that you mentioned to take into consideration any extras that the boat may come with that would reflect upon the overall price. When I found my boat, it was a little more expensive than most, but it had a lot of extras like, beach wheels, trailer, cover, wind vane, arriba stick, sail storage tube on the trailer...etc. I didn't mind spending a bit more money for a boat that already had these extras, the beach wheels alone would have cost around 600 US dollars and I knew my wife would fuss about spending so much money on something like that, lol, so I wanted to find a boat that included a few things. As always, good information, great videos, keep up the good work. Happy Sailing!!!
I paid quite a bit for my 16 ($7200 Canadian) but it I didn't need to replace anything, not even any of the rigging which I check all the time. It came with everything, EPO's (not 3's but the carbon fiber ones), trailer with Hobie long storage box, beach cart (the duel axle one with the long handle - saw that Wildwind has or used to have one), Harken adjustable main block, and a bunch of spare parts. The only minor issues I had were the downhaul (I upgraded to the 6:1), the trampoline has the course lacing which the gap is pretty wide apart (have to be careful I don't loose things that fall between) and the boat has a bit of a twist when lifting one haul. That would be my question to you Joe. How much far should you be able to lift one haul from the bow before the other one starts raising? There is also some creaking going on. Both hauls are solid btw, no dull spots when tapped on and the posts are solid. Also, is there anything that can tighten play?
That sounds like it was a good deal. If you lift one hull there's always going to be some movement. The creaking is normal. To tighten the boat up the normal procedure is just to tighten the trampoline as much as possible. If there's any space between the pylon and casting you could try putting some thing in the gap to reduce the play.
For getting the frame tighter on the pylons and getting a tighter/stiffer boat there are usually two recommended methods. 1. Aluminium shims. Use cut up aluminium beer cans for this. Take the frame off then add strips of the beer cans to the pylon. Easiest way I found is to fold the strip over the lip of the pylon and then replace the frame. Should stiffen things up nicely and it is possible to take the frame off easily enough in the future. 2. Epoxy the frame to the pylons. Drastic in that it is a fairly permanent solution - once they are glued they are on for life more or less so any issues in the future where you'd need to remove the frame would be problematic.
@@HobieCat68 thanks for the tips on improving the rigidity. I break down the boat for winter storage every year so I'll probably go for the shim method. While it's assembled maybe it's a good idea to find the not so tight fitted areas? I imagine that because of the twisting movement, the loser spots would be at the front and back of the posts.
Learning how to repair fiberglass is very easy and is something that a person can easily fix themselves. Knowing how to point out damage can help you negotiate a much lower sale price.
I couldn’t find a email to contact you at but I bought a hobie 16 used noticed when I got home that the fiberglass on the back of one hull around where the rudder pin goes in is blown out any ideas for a fix or solution the rest of it is in amazing shape and no soft spots I believe trailering it around is the reason for the break out.
me! I was going to post the same question as I thought there must be others who do so. I posted recently on the Hobie forums about it. Have a look - www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=65600&p=314033#p314033 I troll from mine mostly for tuna, wahoo, mahi mahi and spanish mackerel and and have had great success during the autumn winter here in Okinawa Japan. I normally go out on the Hobie 14 trolling skirted squid lures. Had a great day yesterday with an 8kg bigeye tuna and a mahi mahi. Also check this video from last year where I hooked up to tuna on both rods at the same time. ruclips.net/video/dI9JMxUkpMs/видео.html
@@JoyriderTV I'm plannng to buy a 1994 hobie cat 16 and this catamaran has only been used a few times in almost 25 years and has always been stored indoors for over 20 years. Can the fiber of the hulls deteriorate over time? Can i consider this boat has almost brand new?
I'm from Australia and I cant seem to find any second hand sails... any chance someone could point me in the direction of a website that has them ? Cheers.
This is the best that i can do apart from suggesting ebay or similar - www.hobie.com/au/en/dealers/ or one of the Facebook groups might be able to help.
Excellent channel, JB. I really appreciate your videos. I’m planning to buy a Hobie 16. I enjoy watching your videos and, who knows, maybe I’ll go to Greece some day and sail with you 😉
I'll be making a new one in the next days but here's all of it so far: Hobie 16 building 1 - platform ruclips.net/video/trSFdRp4tLI/видео.html Hobie 16 Building 2 - trampoline ruclips.net/video/DwXibOFBMeQ/видео.html Hobie 16 building 3 - mast rigging ruclips.net/video/bnAHIkyec1Q/видео.html Hobie 16 building 4 - mast up with hinge ruclips.net/video/VpknsSKFOKY/видео.html
@@JoyriderTV it's the safe one because aluminum is hard to weld as well as compromised. Wouldnt that crack be indicative of a misadjusted dolphin striker?
I'm talking up to 450 for if you have to pay a boat builder to cut a hole in the boat and reinforce from the inside. Epoch injection could work but i was suggesting how much it could cost - worse case
@@JoyriderTV these boats are not meant to be reinforced from the inside. They are hollow. If delamination is so bad and so spread out that an epoxy injection would not help, the hull is toast and needs to be thrown away. U can gut a hobie 16 only if you have to do a pylon job. There is no other scenario. This is why u see inspection ports on some hobies next to front and back pylons.
... that front crossbar needs to be replaced ... PERIOD!!! ... it can not be welded because the aluminum is heat treated !!!! Heat of welding destroys the heat treat/temper and it will not last. Why did it crack??? The dolphin striker was too loose ... allowing the crossbar to flex/bend (common problem on H-18's) ... Did you just say "ropes" ... ??? LINES!!! ... no rope on a boat ... ever!!!!
Yes, thanks for your advise. I've been researching dolphin striker tension as there was no information out there. I foolishly assumed that 'factory setting' of the dolphin striker would be sufficient for the life of the boat. I guess not. We had the cracks welded about 3 years ago - it was either that or replace 7 front beams! Since welding they appear to still be in good shape. And apologies for my poor choice of words, for which, I have no excuse.
Far and away the best Cat sailing resource on RUclips. Thanks JB.
Thanks Steve!
Yess
A free boat is the dearest boat to buy!
Just bought an '85 H16 about a month ago. I've spent more on repairs/upgrades than I did for the boat. I have $2,.500.00 in it so far. Solid boat and everything is new, not to bad in my opinion. I would of payed more for one in the same condition, this way I have the parts I wanted and i have learned every aspect of the boat
Had a similar situation with a 86'
So excited, just bought my first H16
Thank You Joe! 👍🏻 😎
Excellent video. Thank you.
Thank you so much Joe. I am looking at a 1981 Hobie 16 tomorrow. I am prepared now after watching your video. Awesome tips!
Good luck!
Specialist, aluminium repair guy. Best line of the whole video :) Thanks for the awesome videos - so excited to get my first Hobie!
Good luck!
Excellent review for of key criteria for buying a H16.
Thanks
Thanks! just what I need
You're welcome
Thanks for the tips, super helpful! 👍
No problem!
awesome. Thanks! I'm looking at buying my first sailcraft tommorow.
Good luck!
Hello
Nice video !
A good way to check an older boat is to lift with the hand one hull from the bow, and look at the other hull how it moves. If both hulls move nearly solid the boat is perfect to race!
Best regards
thanks!
But make sure to check the trampoline tension before. If it is slack, then there is no way it would pass the test. I have seen this hull motion happen on waves on my old h16, checked the pylons, but there was nothing there. I must have been lazy with the tramp. Once tightened, there was nothing moving.
@@JoyriderTV can I email you with a few pics of a hobie cat 16 I am considering buying? I can’t seem to find your email
This is great! Such good info. Thank you. This one going into the favorites for later. Definitely going to need this in the future.
thanks!
Thanks for the great videos.
Glad you like them!
Thanks for so useful explanation.
Glad it was helpful!
Great help - thanks for the share...
No problem 👍
Well done!
Thanks!
Thanks for this
No problem
great video thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Great video thanks very much
Thanks!
thanks from France, heading to go and buy one this winter ;) a 16
Good choice!
My last Hobie 16 was around 1973. Back then anyway there was always a concern about the hook assembly on the base of the mast breaking. Without it, it was almost impossible to raise the mast. Don't imagine the cost being high, but then I never thought or even knew about things like expensive rudder blades. The stock ones always went in the direction I wanted to go.
Yes of course, the fundamentals are the most important, sometimes it's too easy to loose sight of what's most important whilst being dazzled by fancy rudder blades!
I used to have a Hobie 16. It’s stood the test of a ‘long’ time whilst others have come and gone - a lot of fun. Competed quite a bit incl South Shields, Scotland and Cornwall. (Simon Morgan was a rival). I liked your demo of how many ways to capsize a 16. Done them all! The tip I got when I bought mine was if you see the leeward bow starting to go down, just push the tiller a smidgen (but quickly) and the bow will pop up and save a pitchpole.
Nice! Great stuff.
Simon is still racing - he's a 16 addict like the rest of us!!!
Thanks 🙂
No problem 😊
Useful video. Had a chance on a 16 a few weeks ago on Ebay, but got outbid at £600. It was quite old though.
for £600 if it floats it's worth it!
I rally want to buy a used 16 but my problem is how to store it. I live near ocean, but when not using it, I would need to store it somewhere and be able to launch easily. It is not cheap where I live, so keeping a boat could get expensive.
Great video
Thanks
Excellent vid Joe! Have my eye on a Hobie 16 - but it has sat out in the elements for the past 10-15 years - many soft spots in the decking and hull are scaring me from picking up the boat despite the fact the boat is FREE - need to research how to completely refurbish the innards of the hulls.... I may be taking on way too much.
It depends on how comfortable / experienced you are working with fibreglass. Otherwise you could get a rough quote from a boat builder.
If the rest of the boat is seaworthy it must be worth going for (if you have somewhere to put it)
this video is vital!
I'm glad that you found it useful
Very good vidéo. Hello to France.
Thanks, Greetings from `greece!
Thank you so much i was not buying one i got it for free so i used this as a check list
I'm happy that it helped! Good luck with your 16!
@@JoyriderTV i check the bow of my cat and its moving in and out is that good?
@@porgiesplays6655 not so good - if it's a little bit then it should be ok. If it's a lot or makes a crunching noise then it probably needs repair.
@@JoyriderTV Its only a the very front everything else i secure
@@porgiesplays6655 maybe if you'd like my input you could email me a short video and i'll let you know - send to totaljoyrider@icloud.com
Growing up on these,I always wondered if you an rig the Hobies with regular line. Have you tried to rig the whole Hobie with Dyneema? I always wished those steel cables were regular line to take the injury factor away.. Great book is The Complete Riggers Apprentice. I live in Dunedin,Florida. Been sailing Hobies since the 70’s and looking for another to start sailing again. Too shallow for the foil racers. Thanks for the info Sir!! Just subscribed to your channel.
Welcome to the global Joyrider TV community! There are a lot of 16 sailors around in your area who hang out here!
I'll be live later today with fitting the 16 trampoline (part 2 of a 5 part series)
With regards to the dyneema rigging. I think you're going to get an injury what ever rigging you have on the boat. The 16s from Europe use plastic coated wire for the shrouds which I think gives the best protection. There's a guy in Texas who uses all Dyneema rigging on his Prindle 19 set up by www.colligomarine.com
How do you repair the flex on the hull deck? Can you make a hatch for overnight gear perhaps. 😄
Yes, you'd have to get inside the deck so cutting a hole will be needed- a hatch is a good alternative.
Thanks for the video. When dragging my Hobie 16 out of the water and on to the beach, can I attached a strap to the dolphin striker then pull? (Don't want to damage the boat.)
properly better off putting your strap around the front beam by the mast - dolphin striker at the top of the central rod should be ok
Really useful info here Joe. I am glad that you mentioned to take into consideration any extras that the boat may come with that would reflect upon the overall price. When I found my boat, it was a little more expensive than most, but it had a lot of extras like, beach wheels, trailer, cover, wind vane, arriba stick, sail storage tube on the trailer...etc. I didn't mind spending a bit more money for a boat that already had these extras, the beach wheels alone would have cost around 600 US dollars and I knew my wife would fuss about spending so much money on something like that, lol, so I wanted to find a boat that included a few things. As always, good information, great videos, keep up the good work. Happy Sailing!!!
Thanks ~Marty
The Single 👎🏻 Was the guy selling the bad H-16!!! 😉
All good but, what about all the add-ons? Bucket, trailer, box....etc...it all adds up...
and then the personal sailing gear. All adds up!
I paid quite a bit for my 16 ($7200 Canadian) but it I didn't need to replace anything, not even any of the rigging which I check all the time. It came with everything, EPO's (not 3's but the carbon fiber ones), trailer with Hobie long storage box, beach cart (the duel axle one with the long handle - saw that Wildwind has or used to have one), Harken adjustable main block, and a bunch of spare parts. The only minor issues I had were the downhaul (I upgraded to the 6:1), the trampoline has the course lacing which the gap is pretty wide apart (have to be careful I don't loose things that fall between) and the boat has a bit of a twist when lifting one haul. That would be my question to you Joe. How much far should you be able to lift one haul from the bow before the other one starts raising? There is also some creaking going on. Both hauls are solid btw, no dull spots when tapped on and the posts are solid. Also, is there anything that can tighten play?
That sounds like it was a good deal.
If you lift one hull there's always going to be some movement. The creaking is normal.
To tighten the boat up the normal procedure is just to tighten the trampoline as much as possible. If there's any space between the pylon and casting you could try putting some thing in the gap to reduce the play.
For getting the frame tighter on the pylons and getting a tighter/stiffer boat there are usually two recommended methods.
1. Aluminium shims. Use cut up aluminium beer cans for this. Take the frame off then add strips of the beer cans to the pylon. Easiest way I found is to fold the strip over the lip of the pylon and then replace the frame. Should stiffen things up nicely and it is possible to take the frame off easily enough in the future.
2. Epoxy the frame to the pylons. Drastic in that it is a fairly permanent solution - once they are glued they are on for life more or less so any issues in the future where you'd need to remove the frame would be problematic.
@@HobieCat68 thanks for the tips on improving the rigidity. I break down the boat for winter storage every year so I'll probably go for the shim method. While it's assembled maybe it's a good idea to find the not so tight fitted areas? I imagine that because of the twisting movement, the loser spots would be at the front and back of the posts.
Learning how to repair fiberglass is very easy and is something that a person can easily fix themselves. Knowing how to point out damage can help you negotiate a much lower sale price.
For sure!
I couldn’t find a email to contact you at but I bought a hobie 16 used noticed when I got home that the fiberglass on the back of one hull around where the rudder pin goes in is blown out any ideas for a fix or solution the rest of it is in amazing shape and no soft spots I believe trailering it around is the reason for the break out.
You can send pictures to totaljoyrider@icloud.com
Great video joe. Who uses their hobie as a fishing boat? Must be a Europe thing?
People with lexan rudder blades
Joseph Bennett lol
me! I was going to post the same question as I thought there must be others who do so. I posted recently on the Hobie forums about it. Have a look -
www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=65600&p=314033#p314033
I troll from mine mostly for tuna, wahoo, mahi mahi and spanish mackerel and and have had great success during the autumn winter here in Okinawa Japan. I normally go out on the Hobie 14 trolling skirted squid lures. Had a great day yesterday with an 8kg bigeye tuna and a mahi mahi.
Also check this video from last year where I hooked up to tuna on both rods at the same time.
ruclips.net/video/dI9JMxUkpMs/видео.html
@Tim Beacham I know, i've bought 12 of them!
Do you have a written itemized version of this list?
Not at this time.
I'll get onto that after the season has finished
Hi Jo, do you know if any Hobie 16s for sale in the uk? Thx Aram
I haven't heard of any at the moment - I would check out the UK Hobie 16 page on Facebook.
hi mate just taking the dolpin striker off a 16 i have the cross member off but the pole won't move dose it unscrew ?
yes, it might depend on the age of the boat but the ones that we have unscrew.
Cheers
@@JoyriderTV thanks mate , yes it unscrewed but we needed to take a part off the lathe to grip it and unscrew it :)
Hello is a used 29er for 3.8k aus dollars perfect condition worth it? my last comment didn't come through please respond joe
I think yes for sure that's a good price.
@@JoyriderTV I found one for 2.4k but it is on the other side of the country for me
@@porgiesplays6655 without looking at the boat yourself it's a gamble. In most places there would be haulage firms who could move the boat for you.
@@JoyriderTV Good thing its like 10 minutes in the car from my house
One comment to the Mast, if it's not rigged.Shake the Masttop a bit to hear if there is water in it.
Good tip!
I'm looking to buy a hobi 16 can i have your advice Joseph?
one for today's Q+A
@@JoyriderTV I'm plannng to buy a 1994 hobie cat 16 and this catamaran has only been used a few times in almost 25 years and has always been stored indoors for over 20 years. Can the fiber of the hulls deteriorate over time? Can i consider this boat has almost brand new?
Do this with f18 please Joe
Great idea! It's on the list of videos to make.
I'm from Australia and I cant seem to find any second hand sails... any chance someone could point me in the direction of a website that has them ? Cheers.
This is the best that i can do apart from suggesting ebay or similar - www.hobie.com/au/en/dealers/
or one of the Facebook groups might be able to help.
Joseph Bennett Cheers Joe 👍 I'll try and catch you in some of your lives
Excellent channel, JB. I really appreciate your videos. I’m planning to buy a Hobie 16. I enjoy watching your videos and, who knows, maybe I’ll go to Greece some day and sail with you 😉
How to build hobie 16?
I'll be making a new one in the next days but here's all of it so far:
Hobie 16 building 1 - platform
ruclips.net/video/trSFdRp4tLI/видео.html
Hobie 16 Building 2 - trampoline
ruclips.net/video/DwXibOFBMeQ/видео.html
Hobie 16 building 3 - mast rigging
ruclips.net/video/bnAHIkyec1Q/видео.html
Hobie 16 building 4 - mast up with hinge
ruclips.net/video/VpknsSKFOKY/видео.html
Am I crazy or did I hear nothing about the gel coat?
I might have missed that yet.
Gelcoat damage is generally cosmetic and relatively cheap to repair.
He said the word "look" five times in the first 15 seconds. If that was a drinking game, I'd be really f***ed up already! ;-)
Ha!
SO MANY CHEAP H-16's IN CALIFORNIA
That or just buy a new beam.
good alternative plan
@@JoyriderTV it's the safe one because aluminum is hard to weld as well as compromised. Wouldnt that crack be indicative of a misadjusted dolphin striker?
@@squid0013 quite possibly, more tension would have avoided it.
450 euro for a simple epoxy injection? What are you talking about Joseph :D
I'm talking up to 450 for if you have to pay a boat builder to cut a hole in the boat and reinforce from the inside.
Epoch injection could work but i was suggesting how much it could cost - worse case
@@JoyriderTV these boats are not meant to be reinforced from the inside. They are hollow. If delamination is so bad and so spread out that an epoxy injection would not help, the hull is toast and needs to be thrown away. U can gut a hobie 16 only if you have to do a pylon job. There is no other scenario. This is why u see inspection ports on some hobies next to front and back pylons.
... that front crossbar needs to be replaced ... PERIOD!!! ... it can not be welded because the aluminum is heat treated !!!! Heat of welding destroys the heat treat/temper and it will not last. Why did it crack??? The dolphin striker was too loose ... allowing the crossbar to flex/bend (common problem on H-18's) ... Did you just say "ropes" ... ??? LINES!!! ... no rope on a boat ... ever!!!!
Yes, thanks for your advise.
I've been researching dolphin striker tension as there was no information out there. I foolishly assumed that 'factory setting' of the dolphin striker would be sufficient for the life of the boat. I guess not.
We had the cracks welded about 3 years ago - it was either that or replace 7 front beams! Since welding they appear to still be in good shape.
And apologies for my poor choice of words, for which, I have no excuse.
@@JoyriderTV Harry may want to try decaf... jus sayin,...