I had the same problem for my bass diy and i did your method last week. Thank you. Everything is ok . No gap and a very good junction between the body and the neck. 😉
Do a shim on each side to keep the neck centered.you are correct about taping your template to negate the need for shims later.you can always remove more material harder to put it back after a cut.
40 thou isn't enough to need to shim both sides of the pocket. I normally build my own necks so I won't worry too much about it, my necks fit nice and tight.
I use playing cards for that they are thin stiff and made out of paper and paper is made from wood. You can use them as shims too, I keep a couple of fresh deck of cards in the shop.
Thanks, cool fix. Here's another for your workshop: heat your workspace to the degree that youtubers won't see your breath. It's healthier that way and we can stop worrying about you :)
I had my ‘60 strat neck refinished and now not snug in pocket not major but not snug so I glued piece of very thin cardboard on both sides now super tight!
It's not enough to matter. 30-40thou aren't going to make or break the alignment as I haven't even marked the bridge or pickup locations yet...they will be placed based on the neck position. There's no way someone can visually detect a 30-40thou shift off the center line of a guitar IMHO.
Ok, this is good, thx for share but i got a question, afther this, how do you sand to keep the right measurements so when you place the neck strings on the edge dont fall off from diapason
Bridge position is determined by string location. I typically tie fishing line on for the E strings with some weights on the ends so they can be pulled tight and placed on the bridge to locate it so the strings run where they should along the neck
I've used regular paper masking tape before on templates with no issues. I've also used aluminum tape on the bearing of a router bit to be able to route a channel to the correct depth for binding on a body. You have to be careful with it, but it worked beautifully for me.
@@dilbone1 Not sure what masking tape you used but I tested blue masking tape, tan masking, duct tape and aluminum flashing tape and all failed plus when I got close to the wall of the rout, I really eased up on pressure.
I suppose if this was going to be a painted body you could use a polyester auto body filler, the fact that this was a flamed maple top to be stained I wanted to use wood
Maybe slightly but not a lot. My "paint stick" I use to hold the body while painting sits in the neck pocket with very little gap between the body and the stick. Very little paint gets into the edge of the pocket and the film thickness is no where near 35thou that I needed in this case.
Technically I should have shimmed both equally but I went with the shortest shim needed in the least obvious place. It wasn't loose enough to worry about I just didn't like the little bit of slop I had in it
I had the same problem for my bass diy and i did your method last week. Thank you. Everything is ok . No gap and a very good junction between the body and the neck. 😉
Do a shim on each side to keep the neck centered.you are correct about taping your template to negate the need for shims later.you can always remove more material harder to put it back after a cut.
40 thou isn't enough to need to shim both sides of the pocket. I normally build my own necks so I won't worry too much about it, my necks fit nice and tight.
Thanks for the video, your comments are actually quite helpfull as-well.
I use playing cards for that they are thin stiff and made out of paper and paper is made from wood. You can use them as shims too, I keep a couple of fresh deck of cards in the shop.
Oh, and no problems then? Did it glue on just fine? I might have to do that.
Just straight up Playing cards ?
The ace of spades@@captainjack5108
Thanks, cool fix. Here's another for your workshop: heat your workspace to the degree that youtubers won't see your breath. It's healthier that way and we can stop worrying about you :)
I would think that since both sides of the pocket are over routed, that both sides should be shimmed to have the neck properly centered.
40thou isn't significant to notice a thing...my templates could be off more than that and I'd never know
I may shim both sides on my current build and re-route the pocket. It’s black limba so the shims should disappear.
Have this same issue on my build
i wonder how hard it is to wipe your nose before turning the camera on?
easier than it is to keep your nose from running in a 15 degree barn...
I had my ‘60 strat neck refinished and now not snug in pocket not major but not snug so I glued piece of very thin cardboard on both sides now super tight!
That's going to throw the neck off center. What you do to one side you need to do to the other.
It's not enough to matter. 30-40thou aren't going to make or break the alignment as I haven't even marked the bridge or pickup locations yet...they will be placed based on the neck position. There's no way someone can visually detect a 30-40thou shift off the center line of a guitar IMHO.
Ok, this is good, thx for share but i got a question, afther this, how do you sand to keep the right measurements so when you place the neck strings on the edge dont fall off from diapason
Bridge position is determined by string location. I typically tie fishing line on for the E strings with some weights on the ends so they can be pulled tight and placed on the bridge to locate it so the strings run where they should along the neck
Me too
Tape just gets hot from the router bearing and rips or tears out. Tried various tapes and all do thus.
I've used regular paper masking tape before on templates with no issues. I've also used aluminum tape on the bearing of a router bit to be able to route a channel to the correct depth for binding on a body. You have to be careful with it, but it worked beautifully for me.
@@dilbone1 Not sure what masking tape you used but I tested blue masking tape, tan masking, duct tape and aluminum flashing tape and all failed plus when I got close to the wall of the rout, I really eased up on pressure.
@@MrBritrider I make sure the tape is only at the bearing itself and not the cutting edge of the bit and don't have issues.
I thought it would be easier to round the end off on the original shim?
Can maple be used for this issue. Thanks ☺️
I'd use whatever your top material is, mine was maple, so I used maple
I am also facing similar problem, why people not using Putty directly?
I suppose if this was going to be a painted body you could use a polyester auto body filler, the fact that this was a flamed maple top to be stained I wanted to use wood
Is this situation improved if the body is to be painted ?
Thank you for any reply.
Maybe slightly but not a lot. My "paint stick" I use to hold the body while painting sits in the neck pocket with very little gap between the body and the stick. Very little paint gets into the edge of the pocket and the film thickness is no where near 35thou that I needed in this case.
How do you know what side of the neck pocket to shim ?
Technically I should have shimmed both equally but I went with the shortest shim needed in the least obvious place. It wasn't loose enough to worry about I just didn't like the little bit of slop I had in it