I read a tip from an old gardening book from the 50s. Plant a chrysanthemum as if it is one of your tomatoes or peppers in the garden. They are the first plant to wilt from low soil moisture and they wilt very noticeably before tomatoes or peppers show any stress. If you see it start to wilt, water the garden. They perk up right away until next watering is needed and they droop again.
One thing that worked for me. I bought pots that are clear. I can see how wet the dirt is and also see the roots. Makes it easy to know when to upsize the pot.
I had planted a few jalapeño plants a couple years ago... And come summertime (in southeast Texas) I stopped caring so much about garden tending. They produced peppers all the way into winter. With just whatever rain happened to fall on them during the summer months. Same with okra that I've planted.
I use water from my fish tank when I do a water change. Lots of excess nitrogen in the water to be used up by the plant. It's water that would be sent down the drain anyways, so I'm happy to use it to grow my veggies in the spring->fall.
I done the same for years ! It really gives the plants awesome results . When I was addicted to fishing I would clean my fish and take all the guts / heads and left over scraps and add it in the soil as well. I had massive plant results from peppers to tomatoes and squash, it really pumps up the plants
I have bats that fly around at night out back , and have for years , how do I get one of those boxes? Do they just make a home and leave you the fertilizer?
Glad not alone when water changes are done for freshwater aquarium. We have 4 tanks so yes lots water to use in garden. Plus we have aquatic live plants & they get a light fertilizer
one technique i use is to use a saturated sponge on the surface of the ground/potted plants on really hot days to help provide a 'slow release' drip feed to the roots. additionally due to evaporation on the surface of the sponge, it helps keep the soil cooler around the base of the plant. the best way to do the sponge is to take a large household sponge (20cm*20cm or bigger) and put a hole in the middle with a sharp knife or hot iron, the hole must be large enough not to touch the actual plant (because it might cause stem rot). this is a 'substitute' for mulch and is a suitable solution for potted plants that will be left unattended for a few days. the nice thing about using this technique is that it is impossible to overwater, since the water is distributed by osmosis (water flows in the direction of wet (sponge) to dry (soil)) and excess is evaporated out of the sponge. also the sponge can be reused, reducing reliance on a good supply of mulch. the sponge can also be used to administer micronutrients if one uses water with plantfood already dissolved in it. from a water conservation point of view in dry areas with water restrictions (western cape, australia, california) this technique can help by reducing wasted water. be careful when lifting a 'spent' dry sponge - it is likely have spiders, scorpions, millipedes, insects or even snakes hiding in the warm moist spot under the sponge.
This is an absolutely BRILLIANT technique. I live on a northern peninsula surrounded by freshwater seas, so this is certainly not something I would've even dreamt of, but this technique is bloody inspired. My jaw dropped as I read it! I'm absolutely going to share this with gardeners i know in hot, dry areas. I'd love to give you credit, do you have a blog or something similar? My only concern is that the water may attract, of all things, mice. 5 years ago, my area had no rain for 5 weeks (INCREDIBLY rare in my region) and mice ate all my cucumbers. Mouse traps work splendidly so it's no big issue, but keep a close eye out for any nibbles! Thank you for sharing this technique!
8:38 Over-watering is especially problematic if it occurs right after repotting to a larger pot or outdoors in the ground. What will happen is that the small rotsystem suddenly could have way to much water that will take a long time to return to normal moist condition. More often than not the plant will get a stress reaction due to disturbed root ends when replanting. The stress reaction here is actually a sign of a under hydrated plant. Sun, wind and higher temperatures are all factors to make this situation more noticeable. If you at this point misinterpret the signals and starts drenching the plant with more water the result will probably end with you killing the root-system due to root rot. And then the plant dies of course. It's important to understand the physiologic reasons behind drooping leaves. Internal under hydration makes the leaves droop. It's a lack of water inside the cells in the leaves and the stems. Both damaged roots in soggy soil and healthy roots in dry soil will have the same impact on the plant internal workings and manifest itself exactly the same way by limp branches and drooping leaves. I just learned this the hard way and had to do some online reading to solve this. Thought this could benefit someone struggling with the same
Makes sense. Growing 12 species of chilli in my greenhouse here in Whitby, North Yorkshire and after repotting some of them, I may have overwatered as you outline above. I will monitor the drooping leaves and check the moisture more often using a meter.....I think a solution could be adding a dry top dressing and using a long spike to aerate the soil and push the drier top soils down into the wetter sub soil around the outside of the roots. Or as im typing this, I thought I might add some cappillary matting or absorbent kitchen roll beneath the pot, to wick out excess water if required. Good post cheers......;)
Today... You are describing what I just did to the poor, unfortunate and unlucky plants that I had just brought home a couple days ago. At the nursery, as I was carrying them out to my car, I actually told them "I'm sorry, you poor bastards" because they were unfortunate enough to be my first attempt at growing peppers. (or any vegetable) Thanks for that explanation. If they make it through this recent attempted drowning, I will be more alert. They really did have that look of the dry droops...
Love this channel! Very tough for me in South Florida with extreme heat and brutal showers just about every day in the spring and summer. I’m new at this…only been at it for about 6 months…but even during this short time, I think I’ve “correctly” learned a few things: 1) We each have to work with what we got, and the environment we live in. The soil stinks in my part of South Florida (mostly sand, very shallow until you hit rock/coral), so all of my plants are in containers. 2) I have zero indoor space to accommodate anything, so ALL of my seedlings have to be outside, under cover when needed. But I’m sometimes not home, there’s a downpour, and those seed pots are flooded and totally toast. I’m gonna work on a better situation for this, but they HAVE to be outside. I’m getting like a 10% seedling survival rate now, probably much lower, but it is what it is. I KNOW being out in full Florida sun isn’t good for them so young, but maybe it’s super hardening those that DO survive this torture test environment, and that’s a good thing. 3) Before our rainy season began…and we’ve actually had a VERY dry winter…no problem for me to water every day. I’m retired and nothing else to do with my life! 4) Since our rainy season began about 6 weeks ago, I determined that much bigger pots are more appropriate for adolescents than “size appropriate” pots…and I’m planting 2 adolescents per pot. First, with much more soil, and a heavy downpour, there’s much more space for the rainwater to drain and not flood the roots. (I also put a few empty water bottles at the bottom of the pot.) No matter how well a smaller pot drains, the physics of a larger pot simply makes more sense. And as a bonus, larger pots…as you’ve said in the past…grow larger peppers. Next, and this is total conjecture on my part, I think that planting 2 to a pot is going to protect each from too much sun. One shields the other half of the day, and then vice versa. 5) I avoid mulch because I can’t get the good kind, and I just don’t need it during rainy season and non-rainy season, when I can regularly and easily water anyway. ---- Again…I love what you do, and plan to visit your website often! You always give great, sensible advice, with a great understanding that everyone’s situation is different!
@Fishy You know, I was thinking the exact same thing. Drilling holes in the sides! But I’m an old fart and forget to actually do it. THANKS FOR REMINDING ME!!! Seriously, under-watering is never a problem for me even during “dry” season, because it’s no big deal to go out there and lightly water every day. It’s the natural rainfall over-watering which is killing me. My Cayennes and small hot Thai ornamentals are mature and doing awesome, but all of my other varieties that I’m waiting to fruit…their leaves don’t look right. Edit: And oh… I just bought myself a Father’s Day present, because my wife and kids will probably get me something. I bought two hydroponic kits to use indoors as seed starters.
Great tips. One thing I disagree with though is that mulch doesn't do anything in pots. Mulch absolutely does something in pots. A good 2 inch layer of mulch will keep your pots from immediately drying out on those really hot days. It makes a big difference for me.
Yes I agree. Last year I grew 10 tomato plants in 30 litre pots, 8 of them had mulch. The 2 that didn’t ended up with blossom end rot. I think mulch controls how quickly they lose water.
Now I finally have the answer to why my bell pepper in the ground got bottom rot. The same variety, which is for containers produced into November, using a cover at night. I KNEW THE "FINGERS" IN THE SOIL TEST. I did that for the container bell pepper. Thanks for the help. I'm watching all your videos.
With my pepper plants I always have basil. Not that I want to but some years ago I was not careful with the seeds. Besides, they are good plant friends and benefit from each other. The Aji White Fantasy and "dem Habaneros" have ginger as additional friend.
I have 4 bell pepper plants in a RDWC system outdoors in a greenhouse. They use about 2-2.5 gallons of water per day. Plants are between 2-3 feet tall and produce massive peppers.
Sometimes I watch your videos when I already know about the subject.... just because I like seeing your plants. hahaha. Thanks for all the videos sharing your knowledge and plants.
Both of these are examples of indoor plants....pans to plant, indoors. Great info, ima give it a go this year, thx!
2 года назад+6
My favorite irrigation system is Tropf Blumat. It has clay probes that you stick into the soil. When the soil dries out the probes will let more water through so you don't need to worry about scheduling the watering
Wonderful and thank you. apperantly i over-loved my peppers and killed them by over-watering. now i know and understand very very very informative and clear video, keep up the good detailed information brother!
I decided to grow a habanero plant inside this year, and I put it in a sub-irrigated planter. I used a "Patio Picker", which holds about 10 gallons of soil, and has a 2-ish gallon reservoir in the bottom. I wish I could post a picture here, because it is exploding out of the 28" x 28" grow tent it is in, and it is just now starting to grow peppers. The SiP planter takes the guesswork out of watering, as long as there is water in the reservoir, it wicks up to the rest of the soil.
Amazing video. I have yellow leaves that are falling on 2/6 pots and and 2 other pots are curled. One which I didn't water thrives like crazy. Thanks so much!
Thank you so much I potted pepper plants and the leaves wrinkle. The ones that weren't in pots weren't so. I could have probably deduced that myself but now I know for sure that it's probably being overwatered.
Great video and you explain well, I have 10 sweet bell peppers and some giants said 5"X8 inches and thick walls so yeah I'm excited to eat well this summer planning 40 plants so should be able to allow many to mature in to their colors. I'm planning again to mulch as I think so helpful. Thanks
I'm growing a variety of hot peppers for the first time. I'm doing it in a Greenstalk, and so far, so good. We just had 100 plus degree temps, and it seemed to make them really happy.
One of my issues out here in Victoria BC Canada is that our summers, though not hot (think 80 degrees is a scorcher) are very dry. We get almost no rainfall between late May and October. This makes watering a critical concern.
I bought a bell pepper plant about 3 months ago. It had about two flowers blooming that fell off within the first two weeks of having it. The leaves are curling and bending over. It is in a pot. Weather here for the past three months has gone up from 78° when I first purchased it to now reaching 100° on the hottest days. I have it in an area that it receives direct sunlight between 10am-6pm. I stopped watering it for three days because I got tired of feeling like I water it, let it dry so that I put my finger one inch into it before rewatching, yet nothing happens. Suddenly after not watering it for three days, there are new leaves forming and three flowers budding. I have a jalapeño plant that didn’t experience this problem at all, it bloomed all the way through and I watered it a lot every day (with some days being skipped), it grew very tall and it gave me lots of jalapeños in return! But as far as the bell pepper plant… Help???😅
For watering small plants, peppers, cannabis whatever I’m growing at that time. I take a small Poland Springs bottle and poke holes in the cap with a tac or something like that and then I fill my water bottle with proper pH water and I basically just shower the top soil so that it absorbs into the soil evenly. I’ve noticed peppers like more of a dryer soil, so I just don’t give them too much water. The water bottle with holes in the cap seems to work pretty good for watering young plants though. It’s like a little shower.
Thank you so much. I've been trying to figure this out all week and finally you've given us the answer. Really appreciate the love and thoughts put into making these video's that help everyone. Keep it up
@@PepperGeek do you have any suggestions? I'm new to growing peppers and I planted everything in organic potting mix. The peppers are growing great, but my gardening experience is with Bottle Gourds
I'm in central Florida as well. My potted plants all have a layer of worm castings on top of the soil and about an inch of straw mulch to slow down drying out in summer time.
Thanks, the part about not drowning my plant when watering kept my butterfly bush alive and that’s pretty good considering I basically killed both of them last year lol
Great video! I learned a lot about how to care for my new heirloom chile seedling and what not to do. I just looked at your video library and it looks like I need to get busy and watch. I’ve got a lot of catching up to do. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
My biggest problem this year is how to stop the excessive watering from the sky! Lol We have had so much water that my peppers' leaves were turning yellow, but now they seem to be adjusting and growing well. Fingers crossed!
Right, only so much you can do about that! Compost can help if your plants are in-ground, and thankfully potted plants don't seem to mind lots of water as long as there is good drainage
@@PepperGeek I think the saving grace is that I have them in a very tall raised bed with old logs and leaves and stuff under the soil, so there is very good drainage.
Thanks for your video this will help me a lot. I’m living in Germany and I’m startet a week ago with growing 6 types of chilli’s. So I’m really excited 😊👍🏻. Thanks again and keep up 😊💪🏻👍🏻
I've gotten myself into the habit of just deep watering twice a week (every three days), seems to be working well for me. Over here in Aus it's spring and growing season is underway but we're in this El Nina atm and getting so much shitty weather its depressing.... totally bizarre for spring time over here, but the temp is gradually warming up so should still be a decent growing season.
Can you make a video about leaf size? I have noticed some plants have way smaller leaves compared to my hydroponic ones. I am not sure if it is the dense ground retaining to much water and not allowing oxygen, having to few nutrients or just the damn fungus gnats. Either way, I will just start everything in hydroponics next year. Ps. Cut the top off 1L milk cartons and stick 8x8x8.5cm square pots inside, the lip will hold them in place perfectly. Fill the top with clay pebbles and this way you get a very cheap and space-efficient hydroponics setup!
second this...leaf size, varigation, disease indicators, nutrient or lack of nutrient indicator, lack of light indicator, leaf size/number verses variety, number of peppers, nutrients.
Nice and informative video 👍 I feel that the "hardest" part with bottom watering in trays is not overwatering some plants when other plants are thirsty. I manged to overwater some of my plants this year because of this. I have also noticed that plants with dark foliage get thirsty faster, which I guess isn't that strange hehe. I live in an apartment, so I don't have any "garden soil". But which would you say is better for the plants? Garden soil with compost and less watering or bought soil with perlite and vermiculite and watering more often?
The answer is your soil media should be 5 - 10% water by soil volume. Never more. If you do more you overwater and lock out nutrients. Consistency is key
lots of great advice here. right at the end though I'd take issue with the idea that leaves don't uptake water. its well-known they do in small amounts. hence why people foliar feed.
Finally a new video! I just discovered you guys last week and you gave me the pepper bug and now I've watched everything and have to wait for my fix! Keep up the good work. You guys are awesome.
hows it going man! your channel is awesome and very informative. I've been trying to grow bell peppers for the last 5 years and have been unsuccessful. I've been close with our seeds sprouting and plants growing to about 2 feet tall and even some white flowers sprouting, and some pepers forming on these flowers but most of the time they just fall off. What I can do to improve this year? Is it too late to start growing peppers in Fontana,California? (Southern California) I planted some bell pepper seeds into the ground of a raised bed and they didnt sprout man. Do you think I can still try to grow bell peppers this time of the year in Southern California
would there be a better way to stress the peppers to make them hotter? and when you stress them for that reason, do you decrease the size of the fruit? if that's the case, where is the balance between stressing your plant and getting full sized but mild fruit?
You can see why some people might find this confusing. He says never to let the roots sit in water I grew my peppers hydroponically they only sit in water in fact they've sat in water for 47 days before I decided to try to transplant them. The roots aren't rotten there needs to be a bit of an addendum to this
I just up potted some seedlings yesterday, and they are really not looking happy. I’m really hoping they are just a but shocked. They may have been too small to separate. 😕 Watering is the next worry. 😞
New subscriber here.... And like most here yes i am a pepper addict .... its soooo addicting ... started with a few jalapeño and now i have around 16 different type . Even worst last night i ordered a indoor seed hydroponic kit off amazon . Oh what does a new pepper geek do to end the madness 🤓 lol
The kit was actually a 49 dollar hydro deal , has 12 pods , I wish I had spent the 70 and got the circulating type , I have been using it for propagating the peppers and tomatoes with ease , cut off a small limb and a week or so later inside the hydro water they sprout roots and actually grow peppers inside.... but I take them out and replant them , it's been working great , but when I tried to germinate peppers I think it needs more heat , I bought a cheap aquarium heater and got some indoor sprouts but I believe my seedlings were just ruined by me keep experimenting things with them , the seedlings I started indoor under the hydro system didnt do what I would have thought they would do ... but like I said I prolly stumped them
@@onsiteelectricianscott4025 Mine is Amazon too, as you see. I saw the $49 one (white, correct?), but I went for the extra money not because of the circulation so much, but more important, the adjustable light height. I’m 65, and when I was an irresponsible younger person, I grew a certain plant in my small apartment which was illegal then but now legal in many states: I had a huge ceiling light fixture that held four 4-foot fluorescent grow lights. This was suspended from the ceiling with chains, which allowed the fixture to almost reach the floor, and you could simply raise it as the plants grew. You see… Seedlings want to REACH for the light source, but keeping the light just like 2” above encourages all around, fuller growth…and not a long thin stalk. I have to assume that all plants follow this same principle.
for me after transplanting because of winter i water with a coffee/water mix and add eggshell powder to the top, im working on banana fertilizer but after transplanting i water a lot and let it sit for a week 1/2 or so. hopefully that works
The brand we have doesn’t seem to show much difference between a totally dry plant and a recently watered one, so we don’t rely on it. I’m sure there are better units available!
Question about watering while on an extended trip? If I have several plants in my backyard in grow bags, is it ok to have a standard sprinkler that covers the entire area if gone for an extended trip? Talking 2-3+ weeks. While home we will add nutrients every other watering. Even with the grow bags outside and getting normal rain, they dry out quickly. Secondly question, how often and for how long should I let the sprinkler run. I have remote smart system that I can control with schedule or remotely.
That can work, but it definitely isn't most efficient. If you're running the sprinkler anyway (for the lawn), then it makes more sense. It depends how often you're running it, but I'd say it would need to go for at least 20-30 minutes to give the pots a good drink, as sprinklers are meant to cover a large area.
Thank you for the detailed info. I'm in Indiana and get some very hot and humid days. Is it normal for my plants to droop during the hottest part of the day even if they are well watered? What I noticed last summer was the plants (in containers) would look great in the mornings but in the afternoon they would be drooping. This was happening even with plants that I had just watered. Thanks again for the info you share.
Plants can absorb some water through their leaves, but it's not their main way of getting hydrated. Here's a breakdown of both methods: Main Method: Absorption Through Roots The vast majority of water uptake in plants happens through their roots. Roots have tiny hairs called root hairs that greatly increase their surface area for absorbing water and nutrients from the soil. Water travels up the plant through a network of tiny tubes called xylem vessels. Secondary Method: Absorption Through Leaves Leaves have small pores called stomata that allow them to take in water vapor from the air. This process is called foliar absorption. However, foliar absorption is not very efficient for most plants because: The rate of water vapor entering the leaves is slow compared to water uptake through roots. Excessive water loss can occur through the stomata at the same time, negating any water gain. Factors Affecting Foliar Absorption Humidity: Higher humidity levels in the air can increase the rate of water vapor entering leaves. Plant Type: Some plants with specialized leaf structures or those adapted to dry environments might rely more on foliar absorption. Overall While some water can be absorbed through leaves, it's a minor contributor to a plant's overall hydration compared to water uptake through the roots. Maintaining healthy soil moisture and proper watering practices are crucial for optimal plant health.
Yeah its not a simple question to answer. If you have great soil with good moisture retention, then even though it's dusty dry at the surface but damp an knch or so down, you wil, probanly be fi e for another day or two unless plant is young with shallow roots. An exception can be if there will ne wild temperature swing within the next 24hrs that can zapp the moisture from those leaves faster than the plant can recover it. But a little bit of stress is not always a bad thing. There are periods where stress is ok and even good such as during root development. You want to water more deeply less often so the plant develops mkre roots to seek water. However during growth spurs having a consistent moisture level is also important so the plant can focus on foliage production to feed the roots. During the flowering stage it may be useful to dial the watering back a little to not encourage rot on the flowers, but also imcreaee the watering a little during fruiting, and dial back a little when the fruits are mature but ripening. Trying to time these events is like driving a rear wheel drive sports car over winding track with blind corners. You can see ahead of you but only far enough to see an obstacle and you dont want to weave into the other lane to bank a corner incase a car is commj g in the opposite lane. While being mindful of the weather during each stage of growth and maturation, you may not have to make any adjustments at all, or take a more active role in providing attention to promote tje growth and maturity appropriate for that stage. In their naturwl habitst the chinense varieties love 70f+ at night and 80-85f with high humidity during the day between the establishment and flowering stsges. The growth is almost visible by the hour in these conditions. But after the fruit has matured and is ripening, slightly drier and hotter conditions are prefered even if some of the new flower buds begin to drop. Thjs indicates to the plant thst the dry season is coming so it hastens ripening and even makes them hotter. If the leaves begin wilting or curling or drooping, a deep watering is needed to prevent dropping the fruit as well. A little stress is good but too much isn't. Because you cant predict the weather over the course of the season, your entire crop can still fail if it too wet and cool, or cool and dry. Peppers really dont lime either. Thankfully for me in newengland its looking to be a more balanced season so far with weekly rain over an inch and three per week days above 80f in july just as the fruit is maturing. So far it looks like to a perfect growing season so long as we can get a few days in the 90s by august.
Always enjoy watching your videos, really good information. I have a quick question regarding after overwatering young seedlings, i have leaves that are discoloured and a little limp although not drooping. New growth coming through is now vibrant green. Should i prune the older unhealthy looking leaves off? Thanks
I like to stress my hot pepper plants once they start fruiting. So, I don't water untill the leaves droop. Legend has it that it increases the capsaicin.
A note about water on the leaves. It's actually really important to get some water on the leaves for the microbial community that resides on them. Too much is definitely bad, as it leads to pathogens. But the beneficial microbiome needs some water, too.
I agree... I know I've been lazy with my foliar feedings. Every so often especially at night I like to put my peppers in the tub and hit them with the mist with room temp water. They love it.
My biggest Seedling got sick from a new pot with coconut soil, repotting without old soil + super wet soil.. Lost all his leaves but some people said you can save it! But how do I know when I need to water it? I mean no leaves XD
I live in zone 5b. So we don’t get long months of hot weather. Do you think putting thin rocks on the ground instead of mulch would work in heating up the soil enough so that the soil stays warmer at nighttime?
I actually live in 5b as well! Yes, it definitely would. I’ve seen some comments of people putting black, smooth, thin rocks on top of the soil and I’m considering doing that this year as well. You could also put some black plastic over top of the soil, cutting out a hole for the plant obviously, and that really helps retain heat in the soil at night. I’m trying to grow tobasco peppers this year and I’m in the exact same boat you’re in.
@@allywilliams9338 yes I want to try all the tricks to bring more heat to the ground. Every year my harvest gets bigger and bigger. Let’s hope this year it’s the same. 😁
If you stress the plant with under watering at intervals, you can force The Pepper capsusan to become Hotter! Last year, I grew Habanero peppers that were hotter than store bought Ghost Pepper. So the Question becomes how Spicy do you Want you're Peppers to be.
Bro I’m in zone 9b, it’s 95°f next month it will be 110°f average, I’m watering all my peppers in the raised bed 1 time heavy in the morning and another small watering at night 😭
In Granada (Andalusia Spain) we have summer with 42° Celsius and Humidity below 10%. If I don't water every day, my potted plants die (I have tomatoes, peppers, melon Orange, lemon and local tree fruits like pomegranate. pomegranate=Grenade in Spanish)
I have peppers in clay pots. I didnt hear you mention watering style, as in some people say water until the water comes out the drainage hole on potted plants, then dump the excess water, is that how you reccomend doing it for indoor, clay potted hot peppers?
Hello. I just purchased soil and the esposa garden tone fertilizer and a 13.9 inch "Self Watering Planter". I have been looking for advice with these kinds of pots and have not found any. How much water should I add if I'm plating 1 medium 95 day jalapeno plant? The self watering planter has an opening on the bottom half of the pot but I have no idea how much water and how often?
I would treat that like a normal pot. They’re basically designed to overflow any excess water, or to be subirrigated but that never really worked well in my experience
e careful when you use grass clippings and do not use them if you treated your lawn with weed killer. There may be residual herbicide on/on the clippings.
when using grass clippings also be careful of roots (from things like strangler grass) and seeds...best practice is not to use fresh grass clippings. it is better to let them dry out first (reduces the chance of fungal issues).
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I read a tip from an old gardening book from the 50s. Plant a chrysanthemum as if it is one of your tomatoes or peppers in the garden. They are the first plant to wilt from low soil moisture and they wilt very noticeably before tomatoes or peppers show any stress. If you see it start to wilt, water the garden. They perk up right away until next watering is needed and they droop again.
One thing that worked for me. I bought pots that are clear. I can see how wet the dirt is and also see the roots. Makes it easy to know when to upsize the pot.
I'd worry about algae growth with a transparent pot - unless it sits inside another container
I had planted a few jalapeño plants a couple years ago... And come summertime (in southeast Texas) I stopped caring so much about garden tending. They produced peppers all the way into winter. With just whatever rain happened to fall on them during the summer months. Same with okra that I've planted.
I use water from my fish tank when I do a water change. Lots of excess nitrogen in the water to be used up by the plant. It's water that would be sent down the drain anyways, so I'm happy to use it to grow my veggies in the spring->fall.
I done the same for years ! It really gives the plants awesome results . When I was addicted to fishing I would clean my fish and take all the guts / heads and left over scraps and add it in the soil as well. I had massive plant results from peppers to tomatoes and squash, it really pumps up the plants
That is a great idea if you have a fish tank
I have bats that fly around at night out back , and have for years , how do I get one of those boxes? Do they just make a home and leave you the fertilizer?
Glad not alone when water changes are done for freshwater aquarium. We have 4 tanks so yes lots water to use in garden. Plus we have aquatic live plants & they get a light fertilizer
@Defective Degenerate Thxs! I will def have to build one for the little fellows !
one technique i use is to use a saturated sponge on the surface of the ground/potted plants on really hot days to help provide a 'slow release' drip feed to the roots. additionally due to evaporation on the surface of the sponge, it helps keep the soil cooler around the base of the plant. the best way to do the sponge is to take a large household sponge (20cm*20cm or bigger) and put a hole in the middle with a sharp knife or hot iron, the hole must be large enough not to touch the actual plant (because it might cause stem rot). this is a 'substitute' for mulch and is a suitable solution for potted plants that will be left unattended for a few days. the nice thing about using this technique is that it is impossible to overwater, since the water is distributed by osmosis (water flows in the direction of wet (sponge) to dry (soil)) and excess is evaporated out of the sponge. also the sponge can be reused, reducing reliance on a good supply of mulch. the sponge can also be used to administer micronutrients if one uses water with plantfood already dissolved in it. from a water conservation point of view in dry areas with water restrictions (western cape, australia, california) this technique can help by reducing wasted water. be careful when lifting a 'spent' dry sponge - it is likely have spiders, scorpions, millipedes, insects or even snakes hiding in the warm moist spot under the sponge.
This is an absolutely BRILLIANT technique. I live on a northern peninsula surrounded by freshwater seas, so this is certainly not something I would've even dreamt of, but this technique is bloody inspired. My jaw dropped as I read it! I'm absolutely going to share this with gardeners i know in hot, dry areas. I'd love to give you credit, do you have a blog or something similar?
My only concern is that the water may attract, of all things, mice. 5 years ago, my area had no rain for 5 weeks (INCREDIBLY rare in my region) and mice ate all my cucumbers. Mouse traps work splendidly so it's no big issue, but keep a close eye out for any nibbles! Thank you for sharing this technique!
Nice to read an educational reply!
8:38 Over-watering is especially problematic if it occurs right after repotting to a larger pot or outdoors in the ground. What will happen is that the small rotsystem suddenly could have way to much water that will take a long time to return to normal moist condition. More often than not the plant will get a stress reaction due to disturbed root ends when replanting. The stress reaction here is actually a sign of a under hydrated plant. Sun, wind and higher temperatures are all factors to make this situation more noticeable. If you at this point misinterpret the signals and starts drenching the plant with more water the result will probably end with you killing the root-system due to root rot. And then the plant dies of course.
It's important to understand the physiologic reasons behind drooping leaves. Internal under hydration makes the leaves droop. It's a lack of water inside the cells in the leaves and the stems. Both damaged roots in soggy soil and healthy roots in dry soil will have the same impact on the plant internal workings and manifest itself exactly the same way by limp branches and drooping leaves.
I just learned this the hard way and had to do some online reading to solve this. Thought this could benefit someone struggling with the same
Makes sense. Growing 12 species of chilli in my greenhouse here in Whitby, North Yorkshire and after repotting some of them, I may have overwatered as you outline above. I will monitor the drooping leaves and check the moisture more often using a meter.....I think a solution could be adding a dry top dressing and using a long spike to aerate the soil and push the drier top soils down into the wetter sub soil around the outside of the roots. Or as im typing this, I thought I might add some cappillary matting or absorbent kitchen roll beneath the pot, to wick out excess water if required.
Good post cheers......;)
Today... You are describing what I just did to the poor, unfortunate and unlucky plants that I had just brought home a couple days ago. At the nursery, as I was carrying them out to my car, I actually told them "I'm sorry, you poor bastards" because they were unfortunate enough to be my first attempt at growing peppers. (or any vegetable) Thanks for that explanation. If they make it through this recent attempted drowning, I will be more alert. They really did have that look of the dry droops...
@@timecowx unfortunately a thirsty and a drowning plant can both look similar at first, so it can trick a lot of people
Thanks so much! I just did this to my plants so I hope they make it!
Love this channel!
Very tough for me in South Florida with extreme heat and brutal showers just about every day in the spring and summer. I’m new at this…only been at it for about 6 months…but even during this short time, I think I’ve “correctly” learned a few things:
1) We each have to work with what we got, and the environment we live in. The soil stinks in my part of South Florida (mostly sand, very shallow until you hit rock/coral), so all of my plants are in containers.
2) I have zero indoor space to accommodate anything, so ALL of my seedlings have to be outside, under cover when needed. But I’m sometimes not home, there’s a downpour, and those seed pots are flooded and totally toast. I’m gonna work on a better situation for this, but they HAVE to be outside.
I’m getting like a 10% seedling survival rate now, probably much lower, but it is what it is. I KNOW being out in full Florida sun isn’t good for them so young, but maybe it’s super hardening those that DO survive this torture test environment, and that’s a good thing.
3) Before our rainy season began…and we’ve actually had a VERY dry winter…no problem for me to water every day. I’m retired and nothing else to do with my life!
4) Since our rainy season began about 6 weeks ago, I determined that much bigger pots are more appropriate for adolescents than “size appropriate” pots…and I’m planting 2 adolescents per pot.
First, with much more soil, and a heavy downpour, there’s much more space for the rainwater to drain and not flood the roots. (I also put a few empty water bottles at the bottom of the pot.) No matter how well a smaller pot drains, the physics of a larger pot simply makes more sense. And as a bonus, larger pots…as you’ve said in the past…grow larger peppers.
Next, and this is total conjecture on my part, I think that planting 2 to a pot is going to protect each from too much sun. One shields the other half of the day, and then vice versa.
5) I avoid mulch because I can’t get the good kind, and I just don’t need it during rainy season and non-rainy season, when I can regularly and easily water anyway.
----
Again…I love what you do, and plan to visit your website often! You always give great, sensible advice, with a great understanding that everyone’s situation is different!
@Fishy You know, I was thinking the exact same thing. Drilling holes in the sides!
But I’m an old fart and forget to actually do it.
THANKS FOR REMINDING ME!!!
Seriously, under-watering is never a problem for me even during “dry” season, because it’s no big deal to go out there and lightly water every day. It’s the natural rainfall over-watering which is killing me.
My Cayennes and small hot Thai ornamentals are mature and doing awesome, but all of my other varieties that I’m waiting to fruit…their leaves don’t look right.
Edit:
And oh…
I just bought myself a Father’s Day present, because my wife and kids will probably get me something.
I bought two hydroponic kits to use indoors as seed starters.
Great tips. One thing I disagree with though is that mulch doesn't do anything in pots. Mulch absolutely does something in pots. A good 2 inch layer of mulch will keep your pots from immediately drying out on those really hot days. It makes a big difference for me.
Thanks for sharing - it certainly won't hurt to mulch the potted plants!
Yes I agree. Last year I grew 10 tomato plants in 30 litre pots, 8 of them had mulch. The 2 that didn’t ended up with blossom end rot. I think mulch controls how quickly they lose water.
Invites termites. Too much risk if the pot is simply on the ground.
Now I finally have the answer to why my bell pepper in the ground got bottom rot. The same variety, which is for containers produced into November, using a cover at night.
I KNEW THE "FINGERS" IN THE SOIL TEST. I did that for the container bell pepper.
Thanks for the help. I'm watching all your videos.
With my pepper plants I always have basil. Not that I want to but some years ago I was not careful with the seeds. Besides, they are good plant friends and benefit from each other. The Aji White Fantasy and "dem Habaneros" have ginger as additional friend.
Just watched another channel that stated to water once every two weeks. I’m glad I found your channel!
I have 4 bell pepper plants in a RDWC system outdoors in a greenhouse. They use about 2-2.5 gallons of water per day. Plants are between 2-3 feet tall and produce massive peppers.
Sometimes I watch your videos when I already know about the subject.... just because I like seeing your plants. hahaha. Thanks for all the videos sharing your knowledge and plants.
😊 it is our pleasure! I do the same with other channels too
Both of these are examples of indoor plants....pans to plant, indoors. Great info, ima give it a go this year, thx!
My favorite irrigation system is Tropf Blumat. It has clay probes that you stick into the soil. When the soil dries out the probes will let more water through so you don't need to worry about scheduling the watering
osmosis rulez
Is that kind of like an Olla?
Wonderful and thank you. apperantly i over-loved my peppers and killed them by over-watering. now i know and understand
very very very informative and clear video, keep up the good detailed information brother!
I decided to grow a habanero plant inside this year, and I put it in a sub-irrigated planter. I used a "Patio Picker", which holds about 10 gallons of soil, and has a 2-ish gallon reservoir in the bottom. I wish I could post a picture here, because it is exploding out of the 28" x 28" grow tent it is in, and it is just now starting to grow peppers. The SiP planter takes the guesswork out of watering, as long as there is water in the reservoir, it wicks up to the rest of the soil.
Amazing video. I have yellow leaves that are falling on 2/6 pots and and 2 other pots are curled. One which I didn't water thrives like crazy.
Thanks so much!
Thank you so much I potted pepper plants and the leaves wrinkle. The ones that weren't in pots weren't so. I could have probably deduced that myself but now I know for sure that it's probably being overwatered.
Thank You for the video. Your content has really helped me step up my pepper game. My Friends and Neighbors thank you as well.
😁 I'm glad to hear that.
Great video and you explain well, I have 10 sweet bell peppers and some giants said 5"X8 inches and thick walls so yeah I'm excited to eat well this summer planning 40 plants so should be able to allow many to mature in to their colors.
I'm planning again to mulch as I think so helpful.
Thanks
I'm growing a variety of hot peppers for the first time. I'm doing it in a Greenstalk, and so far, so good. We just had 100 plus degree temps, and it seemed to make them really happy.
One of my issues out here in Victoria BC Canada is that our summers, though not hot (think 80 degrees is a scorcher) are very dry. We get almost no rainfall between late May and October. This makes watering a critical concern.
I bought a bell pepper plant about 3 months ago. It had about two flowers blooming that fell off within the first two weeks of having it. The leaves are curling and bending over. It is in a pot.
Weather here for the past three months has gone up from 78° when I first purchased it to now reaching 100° on the hottest days. I have it in an area that it receives direct sunlight between 10am-6pm.
I stopped watering it for three days because I got tired of feeling like I water it, let it dry so that I put my finger one inch into it before rewatching, yet nothing happens. Suddenly after not watering it for three days, there are new leaves forming and three flowers budding.
I have a jalapeño plant that didn’t experience this problem at all, it bloomed all the way through and I watered it a lot every day (with some days being skipped), it grew very tall and it gave me lots of jalapeños in return!
But as far as the bell pepper plant… Help???😅
Years ago I believe I read peppers love leafs watered with espon salt and my peppers were some of my best ever
For watering small plants, peppers, cannabis whatever I’m growing at that time. I take a small Poland Springs bottle and poke holes in the cap with a tac or something like that and then I fill my water bottle with proper pH water and I basically just shower the top soil so that it absorbs into the soil evenly. I’ve noticed peppers like more of a dryer soil, so I just don’t give them too much water. The water bottle with holes in the cap seems to work pretty good for watering young plants though. It’s like a little shower.
Thank you so much.
I've been trying to figure this out all week and finally you've given us the answer.
Really appreciate the love and thoughts put into making these video's that help everyone. Keep it up
☺️ Glad we could help out!
I live near central Florida and I water mine almost daily, sometimes more than once in a day. They're all in pots and under a sun shade from 2pm-6pm
If I were you, I might test out some heavier soil mixtures to see if you could reduce the frequency
@@PepperGeek do you have any suggestions? I'm new to growing peppers and I planted everything in organic potting mix. The peppers are growing great, but my gardening experience is with Bottle Gourds
I'm in central Florida as well. My potted plants all have a layer of worm castings on top of the soil and about an inch of straw mulch to slow down drying out in summer time.
And we get tons of thrips here in Central Florida. Be on the look out for them
I water 7 am and again at 5-6 at night also in central fl
Thanks, the part about not drowning my plant when watering kept my butterfly bush alive and that’s pretty good considering I basically killed both of them last year lol
Great video! I learned a lot about how to care for my new heirloom chile seedling and what not to do. I just looked at your video library and it looks like I need to get busy and watch. I’ve got a lot of catching up to do. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Very informative thk u first time growing peppers ,so very helpful 👍🏻👍🏻
Here in Vegas my pepper plants do pretty good! Until 120° hits then the struggle is real.
I moved from Vegas in September 2022 to Michigan. My plants really suffered whenever I tried to plant anything there 😅
My biggest problem this year is how to stop the excessive watering from the sky! Lol We have had so much water that my peppers' leaves were turning yellow, but now they seem to be adjusting and growing well. Fingers crossed!
Right, only so much you can do about that! Compost can help if your plants are in-ground, and thankfully potted plants don't seem to mind lots of water as long as there is good drainage
@@PepperGeek I think the saving grace is that I have them in a very tall raised bed with old logs and leaves and stuff under the soil, so there is very good drainage.
Well that didn't age well lmao
Thanks for your video this will help me a lot. I’m living in Germany and I’m startet a week ago with growing 6 types of chilli’s. So I’m really excited 😊👍🏻. Thanks again and keep up 😊💪🏻👍🏻
Sounds great! Good luck with your plants this year :)
@@PepperGeek thanks 😊👍🏻
The shade product is very attractive to protect the plants indeed. I wonder where they could be bought ? THanks for sharing!
You can make your own. There’s a RUclips video about it. It cost me roughly $12 to cover my large container garden.
One thought I’ve read about, water a little less frequently and it will force the roots to go down further.
I've gotten myself into the habit of just deep watering twice a week (every three days), seems to be working well for me. Over here in Aus it's spring and growing season is underway but we're in this El Nina atm and getting so much shitty weather its depressing.... totally bizarre for spring time over here, but the temp is gradually warming up so should still be a decent growing season.
Omg, I love growing peppers, but after seeing your plants, I'm feeling a bit embarrassed. They look much nicer than mine. Nice job.
Yes It depends like our soil it was like sandy loam it is easy to dry so I did once a day.
Can you make a video about leaf size? I have noticed some plants have way smaller leaves compared to my hydroponic ones. I am not sure if it is the dense ground retaining to much water and not allowing oxygen, having to few nutrients or just the damn fungus gnats. Either way, I will just start everything in hydroponics next year.
Ps. Cut the top off 1L milk cartons and stick 8x8x8.5cm square pots inside, the lip will hold them in place perfectly. Fill the top with clay pebbles and this way you get a very cheap and space-efficient hydroponics setup!
second this...leaf size, varigation, disease indicators, nutrient or lack of nutrient indicator, lack of light indicator, leaf size/number verses variety, number of peppers, nutrients.
Nice and informative video 👍 I feel that the "hardest" part with bottom watering in trays is not overwatering some plants when other plants are thirsty. I manged to overwater some of my plants this year because of this. I have also noticed that plants with dark foliage get thirsty faster, which I guess isn't that strange hehe. I live in an apartment, so I don't have any "garden soil". But which would you say is better for the plants? Garden soil with compost and less watering or bought soil with perlite and vermiculite and watering more often?
Definitely the compost for the natural source of nutrients. Peppers are very heavy feeders 🙂
The answer is your soil media should be 5 - 10% water by soil volume. Never more. If you do more you overwater and lock out nutrients. Consistency is key
I was hoping to hear some advice on watering in fabric grow bags
Hello! Here in Brazil, during the summer, we sometimes have to water up twice a day.
lots of great advice here. right at the end though I'd take issue with the idea that leaves don't uptake water. its well-known they do in small amounts. hence why people foliar feed.
also very well-articulated
Finally a new video! I just discovered you guys last week and you gave me the pepper bug and now I've watched everything and have to wait for my fix!
Keep up the good work. You guys are awesome.
😁 glad to hear you caught the bug, it should be a fun year for you!
"have to wait for my fix" ? Just get some seeds and wreak havoc?! It is nearly May and your plants should be 3-4 Month old, vicious and angry.
Best technique I have for watering my peppers is my wife! she does a great Job.
hows it going man! your channel is awesome and very informative. I've been trying to grow bell peppers for the last 5 years and have been unsuccessful. I've been close with our seeds sprouting and plants growing to about 2 feet tall and even some white flowers sprouting, and some pepers forming on these flowers but most of the time they just fall off. What I can do to improve this year? Is it too late to start growing peppers in Fontana,California? (Southern California) I planted some bell pepper seeds into the ground of a raised bed and they didnt sprout man. Do you think I can still try to grow bell peppers this time of the year in Southern California
would there be a better way to stress the peppers to make them hotter? and when you stress them for that reason, do you decrease the size of the fruit? if that's the case, where is the balance between stressing your plant and getting full sized but mild fruit?
Thanks for sharing ! 🌹
You can see why some people might find this confusing. He says never to let the roots sit in water I grew my peppers hydroponically they only sit in water in fact they've sat in water for 47 days before I decided to try to transplant them. The roots aren't rotten there needs to be a bit of an addendum to this
You probably don’t use stagnant water so even if your roots sit in water, water doesn’t “sits” on them.
He specifically is talking about soil and potted plants
I just up potted some seedlings yesterday, and they are really not looking happy. I’m really hoping they are just a but shocked. They may have been too small to separate. 😕 Watering is the next worry. 😞
New subscriber here....
And like most here yes i am a pepper addict .... its soooo addicting ... started with a few jalapeño and now i have around 16 different type .
Even worst last night i ordered a indoor seed hydroponic kit off amazon . Oh what does a new pepper geek do to end the madness 🤓 lol
What kind of kit did you get? Got a link?
I have a seedling situation that needs an indoor solution.
The kit was actually a 49 dollar hydro deal , has 12 pods , I wish I had spent the 70 and got the circulating type , I have been using it for propagating the peppers and tomatoes with ease , cut off a small limb and a week or so later inside the hydro water they sprout roots and actually grow peppers inside.... but I take them out and replant them , it's been working great , but when I tried to germinate peppers I think it needs more heat , I bought a cheap aquarium heater and got some indoor sprouts but I believe my seedlings were just ruined by me keep experimenting things with them , the seedlings I started indoor under the hydro system didnt do what I would have thought they would do ... but like I said I prolly stumped them
I got it off Amazon
@@onsiteelectricianscott4025 Mine is Amazon too, as you see.
I saw the $49 one (white, correct?), but I went for the extra money not because of the circulation so much, but more important, the adjustable light height.
I’m 65, and when I was an irresponsible younger person, I grew a certain plant in my small apartment which was illegal then but now legal in many states:
I had a huge ceiling light fixture that held four 4-foot fluorescent grow lights. This was suspended from the ceiling with chains, which allowed the fixture to almost reach the floor, and you could simply raise it as the plants grew. You see…
Seedlings want to REACH for the light source, but keeping the light just like 2” above encourages all around, fuller growth…and not a long thin stalk.
I have to assume that all plants follow this same principle.
Great video and tips, thank you very much
Great video
Thanks!
The rules change down here in southern Arizona.
Haha I’m sure they do. More like “water constantly”?
Good information - thanks for the video!! 🌶✌️
Im growing the carolina reaper for the first time! Pretty excited
Im definitely over watering my two plants
for me after transplanting because of winter i water with a coffee/water mix and add eggshell powder to the top, im working on banana fertilizer but after transplanting i water a lot and let it sit for a week 1/2 or so. hopefully that works
Water quality counts too, I'm stuck using bore water out of the tap which has lots of dissolved minerals and alkaline
What are the issues with moisture meter’s, I’ve found them fairly accurate, thanks for all the info 🏴
The brand we have doesn’t seem to show much difference between a totally dry plant and a recently watered one, so we don’t rely on it. I’m sure there are better units available!
Smart descriptions. Tnx
Question about watering while on an extended trip? If I have several plants in my backyard in grow bags, is it ok to have a standard sprinkler that covers the entire area if gone for an extended trip?
Talking 2-3+ weeks. While home we will add nutrients every other watering.
Even with the grow bags outside and getting normal rain, they dry out quickly.
Secondly question, how often and for how long should I let the sprinkler run. I have remote smart system that I can control with schedule or remotely.
That can work, but it definitely isn't most efficient. If you're running the sprinkler anyway (for the lawn), then it makes more sense. It depends how often you're running it, but I'd say it would need to go for at least 20-30 minutes to give the pots a good drink, as sprinklers are meant to cover a large area.
Awesome! Excellent info. Thank you!
doing some low key research eh? 😉
Thank you for the detailed info. I'm in Indiana and get some very hot and humid days. Is it normal for my plants to droop during the hottest part of the day even if they are well watered? What I noticed last summer was the plants (in containers) would look great in the mornings but in the afternoon they would be drooping. This was happening even with plants that I had just watered. Thanks again for the info you share.
Yes, it is totally normal to see drooping on hot days, even will a well-watered plant. Overnight the leaves should firm up as the temperatures drop.
@@PepperGeek Many thanks! This is only my second year growing peppers and I appreciate all of the knowledge that you share!
If your greenhouse gets hot a drip would be great.
Does using terracotta spikes work well for peppers? Thanks for all the great tips
Plants can absorb some water through their leaves, but it's not their main way of getting hydrated. Here's a breakdown of both methods:
Main Method: Absorption Through Roots
The vast majority of water uptake in plants happens through their roots.
Roots have tiny hairs called root hairs that greatly increase their surface area for absorbing water and nutrients from the soil.
Water travels up the plant through a network of tiny tubes called xylem vessels.
Secondary Method: Absorption Through Leaves
Leaves have small pores called stomata that allow them to take in water vapor from the air. This process is called foliar absorption.
However, foliar absorption is not very efficient for most plants because:
The rate of water vapor entering the leaves is slow compared to water uptake through roots.
Excessive water loss can occur through the stomata at the same time, negating any water gain.
Factors Affecting Foliar Absorption
Humidity: Higher humidity levels in the air can increase the rate of water vapor entering leaves.
Plant Type: Some plants with specialized leaf structures or those adapted to dry environments might rely more on foliar absorption.
Overall
While some water can be absorbed through leaves, it's a minor contributor to a plant's overall hydration compared to water uptake through the roots.
Maintaining healthy soil moisture and proper watering practices are crucial for optimal plant health.
Yeah its not a simple question to answer. If you have great soil with good moisture retention, then even though it's dusty dry at the surface but damp an knch or so down, you wil, probanly be fi e for another day or two unless plant is young with shallow roots. An exception can be if there will ne wild temperature swing within the next 24hrs that can zapp the moisture from those leaves faster than the plant can recover it. But a little bit of stress is not always a bad thing. There are periods where stress is ok and even good such as during root development. You want to water more deeply less often so the plant develops mkre roots to seek water. However during growth spurs having a consistent moisture level is also important so the plant can focus on foliage production to feed the roots. During the flowering stage it may be useful to dial the watering back a little to not encourage rot on the flowers, but also imcreaee the watering a little during fruiting, and dial back a little when the fruits are mature but ripening. Trying to time these events is like driving a rear wheel drive sports car over winding track with blind corners. You can see ahead of you but only far enough to see an obstacle and you dont want to weave into the other lane to bank a corner incase a car is commj g in the opposite lane.
While being mindful of the weather during each stage of growth and maturation, you may not have to make any adjustments at all, or take a more active role in providing attention to promote tje growth and maturity appropriate for that stage. In their naturwl habitst the chinense varieties love 70f+ at night and 80-85f with high humidity during the day between the establishment and flowering stsges. The growth is almost visible by the hour in these conditions. But after the fruit has matured and is ripening, slightly drier and hotter conditions are prefered even if some of the new flower buds begin to drop. Thjs indicates to the plant thst the dry season is coming so it hastens ripening and even makes them hotter. If the leaves begin wilting or curling or drooping, a deep watering is needed to prevent dropping the fruit as well. A little stress is good but too much isn't. Because you cant predict the weather over the course of the season, your entire crop can still fail if it too wet and cool, or cool and dry. Peppers really dont lime either. Thankfully for me in newengland its looking to be a more balanced season so far with weekly rain over an inch and three per week days above 80f in july just as the fruit is maturing. So far it looks like to a perfect growing season so long as we can get a few days in the 90s by august.
Always enjoy watching your videos, really good information.
I have a quick question regarding after overwatering young seedlings, i have leaves that are discoloured and a little limp although not drooping. New growth coming through is now vibrant green. Should i prune the older unhealthy looking leaves off?
Thanks
Thank you! You don’t have to prune old foliage, but if it looks bad we usually do just to keep it tidy
I like to stress my hot pepper plants once they start fruiting. So, I don't water untill the leaves droop. Legend has it that it increases the capsaicin.
Thanks for the informative video!
A note about water on the leaves. It's actually really important to get some water on the leaves for the microbial community that resides on them. Too much is definitely bad, as it leads to pathogens. But the beneficial microbiome needs some water, too.
I agree... I know I've been lazy with my foliar feedings. Every so often especially at night I like to put my peppers in the tub and hit them with the mist with room temp water. They love it.
They get water from dew, transpiration and guttation.
what is that potted yellow pepper plant in this video?
My biggest Seedling got sick from a new pot with coconut soil, repotting without old soil + super wet soil.. Lost all his leaves but some people said you can save it! But how do I know when I need to water it? I mean no leaves XD
I live in zone 5b. So we don’t get long months of hot weather. Do you think putting thin rocks on the ground instead of mulch would work in heating up the soil enough so that the soil stays warmer at nighttime?
I actually live in 5b as well! Yes, it definitely would. I’ve seen some comments of people putting black, smooth, thin rocks on top of the soil and I’m considering doing that this year as well. You could also put some black plastic over top of the soil, cutting out a hole for the plant obviously, and that really helps retain heat in the soil at night. I’m trying to grow tobasco peppers this year and I’m in the exact same boat you’re in.
@@allywilliams9338 yes I want to try all the tricks to bring more heat to the ground. Every year my harvest gets bigger and bigger. Let’s hope this year it’s the same. 😁
If you stress the plant with under watering at intervals, you can force The Pepper capsusan to become Hotter! Last year, I grew Habanero peppers that were hotter than store bought Ghost Pepper. So the Question becomes how Spicy do you Want you're Peppers to be.
thank you! that’s really interesting
Care to share what lights you use indoors? I'm in the PNW so I need to start mine inside mid february until May
Bro I’m in zone 9b, it’s 95°f next month it will be 110°f average, I’m watering all my peppers in the raised bed 1 time heavy in the morning and another small watering at night 😭
I have given up on peppers, they never do well with me. I grow amazing pumpkins and tomatoes so I am going to stick to them.
In Granada (Andalusia Spain) we have summer with 42° Celsius and Humidity below 10%. If I don't water every day, my potted plants die (I have tomatoes, peppers, melon Orange, lemon and local tree fruits like pomegranate. pomegranate=Grenade in Spanish)
What about when you’re starting seeds? I have my seeds outside with a little dome over them. It’s currently 90°+ here
I have peppers in clay pots. I didnt hear you mention watering style, as in some people say water until the water comes out the drainage hole on potted plants, then dump the excess water, is that how you reccomend doing it for indoor, clay potted hot peppers?
Thanks so much for the video
Will you please send me a copy of your book? I’m currently living off of peppers for my food supply and they aren’t growing as well as they could be
Hello. I just purchased soil and the esposa garden tone fertilizer and a 13.9 inch "Self Watering Planter".
I have been looking for advice with these kinds of pots and have not found any. How much water should I add if I'm plating 1 medium 95 day jalapeno plant? The self watering planter has an opening on the bottom half of the pot but I have no idea how much water and how often?
I would treat that like a normal pot. They’re basically designed to overflow any excess water, or to be subirrigated but that never really worked well in my experience
Missed it by that much. 👍
AKA: Agent Maxwell Smart
Potted peppers grown in hot windy desert conditions need water everyday. Its that simple.
What type of water do you recommend
Purified, distilled or tap?
Dang this should’ve been your first video 😂
My peppers are just stunted. Over a month and they are still the same size as the day I bought them. This year is weird, be we had this issue before.
My jalapeño are not hot, I’ve picked about 6 it’s early in south Louisiana but I wondered if they get hotter as the season progresses?
My yard is like 100% clay and does not drain at all. My only option is to use raised beds.
Great info. Thx a lot!
Mine sits in a bowl of water. Seems to be the only way to keep it hydrated during the summer.
For grow bags I’ve heard this works really well, basically a self watering system
e careful when you use grass clippings and do not use them if you treated your lawn with weed killer. There may be residual herbicide on/on the clippings.
when using grass clippings also be careful of roots (from things like strangler grass) and seeds...best practice is not to use fresh grass clippings. it is better to let them dry out first (reduces the chance of fungal issues).
i cant collect rain water, im in a care home, tap water ok ? what about germination, bottled or distilled water or again tap water ok ?
been 105 degrees here several times this year my pepper plants are struggling
Do the soda bottle adjustable drippers work for watering?
Thanks for the tips! 👍