Building the Bouchie Dory Pt. 17 - Finishing the garboards
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- Опубликовано: 8 мар 2020
- In this Building the Bouchie Dory video we complete the garboard planks by bevelling the laps, cutting the gains and wrap up the fibreglassing process.
My website: www.nomadboatbuilding.com
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Nooo!! I've seen all videos! What am I going to do with my life? All chapters from Sampson Boat Co, The Art of Boat Building, Acorn to Arabella and Nomad Boatbuilding seen. Nice job. Thank you!
Sounds like we fond a fan. Thanks for watching.
Best demonstration and explanation of cutting gains I've seen. Nice job.
You're too kind. Thank you.
@@Nomadboatbuilding Just making up for jumping ahead on the International 2.4 planking on IG. Lol.
As always fantastic work Mark. Love the ending.
Thanks Bud.
Respect to the Samurai. He’s an excellent craftsman. I was just goofing around. He lives pretty close to me but surprisingly I’ve never crossed paths with him.
Nomad Boatbuilding Jesse has always intrigued me. He is a very good craftsman from what I have seen.
Oliver Woodcraft yes indeed. He also managed to jump to full time pretty quickly. Hit the maker movement sweet-spot I suppose.
Thank you for a nice Wednesday evening video. In cutting the gains on the plank ends (the several times I did it) I found you can go from perfect to horribly wrong in a single stroke of the plane if you don't pay attention. This is especially true with soft woods like cedar. Your method of cutting them makes it look easier then what I did and less likely to go wrong. Thank you for that Mark. Take care and hope you have a good weekend ahead.
Matt Evans-Koch they can go awry kind of easily but that’s why they make tubes of goo. There was a very experienced boat builder around these parts named Ken Douglas. His boats were well regarded but he shit at cutting gains. There was alway gobs goo squeezing out of the ill fits he created. If the rolling gains are too tricky for you, just use the flat ones.
@@Nomadboatbuilding I have pretty much gone to the flat gains on anything requiring them. But I still try a practice rolling gain and bevel when I get the chance. I just really slow down when doing either one.
Thank you for the encouragement.
@@mattevans-koch9353 Atta-boy. Keep at it!
Thanks for your very kind sharing of your skills , it must mean a lot of extra work . Maybe I missed something but why why epoxy before you finish planking ?
Because only the plywood garboards and bottom are getting any epoxy. The rest of the planking will just get oil and paint.
That was great! Love it when I learn something
Awesome! What did you learn?
@@Nomadboatbuilding a couple things actually. I have had these annoying bubbles come up in epoxy and I really like the scraper idea. I've just sanded before and it is very time consuming. Also, I haven't done any lapstrake like this so I like how you get the bevels in so the next plank will lay fair
HI! love your videos!! learning a lot and thank you so much!! i had a question for you, i have seen people put epoxy on the boat first and then add the cloth on top before adding a bit more. believe they think it helps filling in. is it a personal preference to do it the way you do or did you have negative experiences with the other method?
once more, thank you so much and keep up the amazing work!!!
you deserve way more subscribers...
Hello Myssa. You can apply fibreglass cloth either way but each has a small advantage and disadvantage. Putting the cloth on bare wood is fine and I do that most often but you need to be careful that you add enough epoxy to saturate both the cloth and the surface of the wood. This might take a little more time for the epoxy to soak in all the way and if you are working in a hot environment that can make the process of squeegeeing off the excess epoxy more time sensitive. You have to take off the extra or the cloth might float to the surface rather than lie right against the wood. The alternative which is probably better for very porous wood like red cedar is to pre-coat the wood a day ahead. This adds a day to the job and requires an extra sanding operation because the epoxy coat will raise the grain. Now your surface is more slippery so it’s harder to keep the cloth in place as you apply it but it also now requires probably half as much epoxying to wet out the cloth properly. Epoxy is exothermic which means that it produces heat as it cures and the hotter it gets the faster it cures. So the greater the volume of epoxy, the faster you have to work. If I were glassing plywood I would usually not pre-coat but if I were doing a cedar canoe for instance I would. Coin toss. They both work just fine.
@@Nomadboatbuilding great! Thank you so much for your detailed answer!! It is a joy to watch you work and i am looking forward to all the videos i still have not seen!
All the best and my compliments and thanks to you
@@myssadonno2759 and I thank you for taking interest in my offerings. All the best.
There is an excellent series on YT by Traditional Maritime Skills, in which a builder called Marcus Lewis is making a clinker boat. He calls the Gains Geralds. Not quite sure why, but it is a quirky name for them.
Dale Skidmore Because he’s English. John Leather (also English) also calls them geralds. Surely you call them geralds too?
@@BalancedLugger Yes, but this is the first time I had a chance to say it, ha, ha.
Quirky names abound in boatbuilding. I've never heard the name Geralds before but it doesn't surprise me at all.